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Every Model Magazine The UK’s first exclusive & independent modelling magazine
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ISSUE 22 SUMMER 2012 £3.99 UK
9 772041 926007
Exclusive interview with international plus size model
Deborah Dauchot Photoshop Law Banning underweight models
ART VS TART
The perception of nudity in glamour & fashion
Every Model Magazine
Every Model Magazine is the first modelling industry publication designed specifically to reach the professionals within this diverse business. Informative features, advice, guidance and inspirational interviews are just some of the regular editorial topics covered. The aim and philosophy of Every Model Magazine is to bring together professionals and those wishing to be part of the industry. Our magazine acts as an independent tool to converge with other businesses at a professional and high level. Our editorial content is designed to provide maximum benefit to all our readers and a medium for businesses to gain knowledge to enhance their own organisations.
Anyone wishing to learn about a model’s view and perspective will find it in Every Model Magazine. Models, actors, presenters, dancers, can learn about the goods and services offered by the industry. What makes a good agency? What do agencies look for in their models? What makes a supermodel? All these questions are answered. And what are the negatives within the industry from a model’s perspective? How can the industry accommodate them better? What can be learnt and subsequently developed in order to stand out from the rest?
Inter view withl Israeli Mode Tal Berkovich
Ar t vs Tar t
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Out & About
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mn Izabella’s Colu
05 Letter from the Editor 06 Interview with Plus Size Model 08 The new Photoshop law in Israel 12 Olivia’s Diary 13 10 Top Tips 14 Modelling down under Kirsty’s 16 Alize’s Top Tips Column supermodels so 18 Are super without airbrushing? 20 Art vs Tart 22 Beauty Feature 30 Industry Directory Deborah Dauchot
Interview with Tal Berkovich
Miss Every Model Winner
Beauty Feature
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Column by Izabella Lombardi
Scouted model by EM Magazine
By Alize Mounter, Miss England
By Kirsty Nichol
By Fay L Bacon
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By Joanne Timms
The EM accreditation initiative
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can’t be completely sure, but apparently summer 2012 happened at 11am on a Tuesday in April. I must have missed that. Shame. Oh enough of the old blighty summer blues. We love it really. Plus size model Gina Inglis brings us her news from down under. Scouted by EM Magazine Gina is now working as a successful model in Australia. Olivia Landin our current EM winner has been busy taking part in photo shoots and fashion shows. Read her diary on page 12. Kirsty takes a look at the new laws overseas in respect of airbrushing and our perceptions of beauty. What do you think? Is photoshop our friend or foe? And hold on tight, take a deep breath and read Fay’s take on glamour modelling. Her column this issue, Art vs Tart, highlights more perceived stereotypes and misconceptions in our industry. See page 22. Check our ‘out and about’ pages with Jo and Nick. EM gets up close and personal with a few more famous faces. The EM model searches are still taking place, covering all genres. So if you are petite, plus size, fashion, editorial, glamour or commercial, send your details to info@emmagazine.co.uk. You never know, you may well be the next signing for any one of the top UK agents after reading this edition of EM Magazine.
Photography: Steve Davies Art Direction: Fay Bacon and Ruth Deane Model: Lara Cocozza MUA: Joanne Timms Hair: Emily Davies
Photographers Wilson White Photography, Alan Strutt, Kumar Chan, George Althaus, Getty Images Alexander Lipkin, Guy Hecht
Editorial Team Editor: Ruth Deane Tel: 01536 512624 editor@emmagazine.co.uk Columnists: Fay L Bacon, Kirstie Nichol, Izabella Lombardini, Joanne Timms Studio Manager/Designer: Paul Mancey paul@lancepublishing.co.uk Picture Editor: Paul Mancey Publishers: Model Media Ltd Tel: 01536 521126 1st Floor, Tailby House, Bath Rd, Kettering NN16 8NL. Printed by: Lance Print Ltd Tel: 01480 492183
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I thought they wanted me to be a ‘fat model’.
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PLUS SIZE MODEL
Deborah Dauchot
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Every Model Magazine
UK Agency: Age: Height: Dress Size:
Hughes Models, Represented by Brigitte Models in Germany 29 5’9” 14/16
RD: When did you first get into modelling and how? DD: I started about nine years ago as a regular model. I wasn’t skinny but at the age of eighteen I put myself on a diet and I lost 15 kilos. My boyfriend at the time did some commercial modelling and I wanted a way of making money as a student. So I sent some pictures to an agency who wanted to sign me. But they asked me to lose even more weight. I did actually try to do that which was a big mistake. And sadly I got in the eating disorder trap. After two years I realised I was really hurting myself and I decided to quit modelling. I put weight on really quickly then. But I also stopped working out and I ended up being a bit of a mess. I went from one extreme to another. About a year later I met a booker from an agency in Belgium. I had no idea about plus size modelling work. When I quit the year before plus size didn’t seem to exist. I didn’t really accept myself and I didn’t get the whole plus size thing. I thought they wanted me to be a ‘fat model’. I didn’t like myself and I wasn’t
looking after myself. So I refused an offer of a plus size signing. But I thought about it some more and decided to give it a try. And I got work immediately. But I felt really uncomfortable on my first shoot. It was swim wear and I felt badly about myself as I couldn’t accept my body. I then decided I didn’t want to be too big or too thin. So I decided to become the natural weight for me and accept myself. As soon as I did that I started living again. A year later after working on my own self belief I started modelling as a plus size properly. RD: What is your current dress size and does it fluctuate now? DD: I am now a size 14/16. I sit at this size naturally. I am not on a diet. I eat healthily and I work out. But I don’t have to put myself under stress anymore and I wouldn’t do that again. I am happy with who I am. RD: Just as we ask catwalk fashion models about their feelings in respect of remaining their signed size do you feel you have to do that? DD: I don’t try to eat more to
I am following those who remain in it now. RD: What is your take on the current debate concerning image retouching and reducing body weight in published images? DD: Obviously we need retouching
Our exclusive interview with Deborah Dauchot an international plus size model. What could have been a disastrous future turned into success, healthy living and personal acceptance... maintain my weight, or less to reduce it. I am the size I am. You are able to go from one size to another and remain a model probably within plus size more than any other modelling genre. But whatever your weight is it should all be achieved healthily. RD: Are you inspired by any models? DD: Plus size models in general inspire me. Robyn is doing really well at the moment and I am impressed by her work. Crystal Wren seems to have left plus size so
for smoothing out skin tone etc. I think re touching where celebrities are concerned to make them look completely different goes too far. For models, they are simply doing a job we are asking them to do. Do celebs ask for their pictures to be changed? I don’t know? [laughs] But in modelling we don’t. We are there to provide great pictures, and that is what we do. RD: What work that you have done are you most proud of? DD: I have just appeared in the May edition of Elle which is
amazing. Editorial shots and an interview. It was really cool. I do a lot of very commercial modelling, which probably isn’t the most glamorous of work. But I am really proud of working well in my country. I have been the face of a lot of brands in Belgium. RD: To be a successful plus size model, what attributes do you need to have physically? DD: Its not only about extra weight in comparison to regular models. You have to have a good shape, have a great waist and be toned. Height is quite important. Bust size is also necessary, you can’t really be less than a C cup. You also need to be patient in day to day life. It can take a while to get work. It doesn’t happen overnight. You need to accept the fact you are going to start from the bottom, make mistakes and learn. That’s something you build up. Be realistic. And don’t become a diva. Realise you are part of a team. RD: What’s next for you? DD: The season for catalogues is coming up and as I also like to go abroad so I am hoping for some work in other countries around the world. To contact Deborah for modelling assignments please get in touch with the bookings department at Hughes Models London. Every Model Magazine
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Israeli MODEL
Tal Berkovich
Every Model Magazine 8 Photo: Guy Hecht
UK Agency: Zone models, Publicist Catherine at flair pr london Age: 26 Height: 5’6” Dress Size: 6/8
Photos provided by London Flair PR
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he developed an early passion for dance and acting and was enrolled at the Vitzo Haifa Arts School where she focused particularly on classical ballet, though modern dance, jazz and of course acting were all part of her education. At the age of sixteen whilst still in high school she was invited to join the Israeli National Ballet, the youngest ever member of that company, where she carried on her ballet studies as well as performing and was talented enough to win the American Ballet scholarship each year. During these four years she danced such roles as Sleeping Beauty, Cinderella and Gisela, also performing in Swan Lake and the contemporary production of One Gin. Her mysterious, striking looks were instantly employed by the liquor company Cinzano and from there did regular lingerie and sports wear campaigns. A year later she returned to Israel and such was her success in Milan she was hosting a hit prime time TV show ‘Paparazzi’, the Israeli equivalent of Shooting Stars which she did for 50 episodes.
However the lure of travelling soon returned and at twenty two Tal moved to London. It was this move that saw her career as a model begin to take off, magazines could not get enough her as she was on the cover of FHM, Men’s Health and Conde Nast, to name but a few. Editorials soon followed with similar publications and many more magazines pulse advertising’s for Nike, Sony, Panasonic, Veet, Agent Provocatear and it was not long before campaigns for EL Corte Ingles cosmetics, Ann Summers Lingerie, Javier Simora designer, Nestle chocolate and ice cream, and Atlantic swimwear. Her modelling carrier took her from London to Barcelona, Istanbul, Bangkok, Hong Kong, Poland, Ibiza, Moscow and of course Paris, Berlin and Milan. During this wonderful and successful period she was lucky enough to work with photographers such as, Tony McGee, Eamon McCab, Jeffolson and Pepe Botella, Acting though never left her and while her modelling career was blossoming, she continued with her studies. When back home in Israel
Photo: Sebastian Bednarski
Tal was born in Haifa, Israel to Indian mother and a Romanian father. She was raised in Kiryat-Town with her two brothers.
last year she began that career in earnest by obtaining roles in two hit movies. The boat that Rocked written and directed by Richard Curtis and Walt Disneys’ Prince of Persia directed by Mike Newell, where she played opposite Hollywood star Jake Gyllenhall. RD: Thanks for talking to us here at EM Magazine. How are you doing? TB: I’ve been running around today to loads of castings. Busy busy. But I love it. RD: So you are originally from
a dancing background, what made you delve into the world of modelling? TB: I hurt my knee very badly when I was twenty and the doctors said my joints were not strong enough to continue as a professional ballerina. I was devastated of course, but I decided to buy an open ticket to Milan, just like that. I had 1000 Euros in my pocket and off I went. I was very stubborn. I went from agent to agent. I had no book, nothing. And on
the second day an agency decided to give me a chance. After three weeks I got a campaign for Cinzano Champagne. Then quite a lot of famous photographers wanted to take photos of me. I started working in Spain, Germany, China, Miami and London. I was twenty one when I started my modelling career. RD: Your acting career has been quite extensive. Have you got any new roles lined up? TB: In Israel I did strictly come dancing and two sitcoms for Israeli television and one drama. I was also in two Hollywood movies. I am going to fly to Cannes Film Festival next week as I have a part in short film called ‘Soulmates’. RD: There is a cross over in the acting, modelling and entertainment industries. Do you think that by entering one you gain a higher chance of being involved in another? TB: It does help you. When you are a dancer for example you have a great deal of self discipline. Your awareness of the way you look and hold yourself helps. I think modelling to acting is not that easy. Every Model Magazine
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In Israel they have recently passed a law to say that model cannot work if her BMI is less than a certain level.
Photo: Alexander Lipkin Photo: Alexander Lipkin
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The transition from acting to modelling is easier. They are very different industries to me. RD: What do you think are the key attributes to a successful modelling career? TB: Always stick to your core values. Be focussed. Be very confident. Keep healthy, so eat healthily and exercise and don’t starve yourself. RD: What is your take on the recent ban of underage and underweight models by Vogue? TB: In Israel they have recently passed a law to say that a model cannot work if her BMI is less than a certain level. It is not being very well received in Israel by the models. I am not considered to be a skinny model. I am healthy and curvy. But I do watch what I eat, I don’t drink alcohol and I go to the gym every other day. I am very for this new law though. RD: How would you feel about your images being published with no retouching or post production? TB: I would be all for that. I don’t like photoshop at all. Part of the new law in Israel is that you cannot retouch an image without it being stated that the image has had work done on it. There are a lot of things in photoshop that help photos though. Like balancing out skin tone etc. It can really enhance a photo. Its not just about reducing weight. RD: What words of advice can you offer aspiring models and actresses to cut it in our competitive industry? TB: I think it is about being in the right place at the right time. I don’t think you should start modelling before the age of 18 and have finished school. I don’t think you will miss anything if you start younger than that. You need to have
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a little bit of an idea about what you want in life and making choices. Avoid unhealthy pastimes such as drinking and smoking. And don’t let anyone take advantage of you. Be realistic. Ignore all the people who tell you they can make you a big star. At the end of the day you are actually a product. Nobody does you a favour here, it is a job at the end of the day.
The new law in Israel
Israeli lawmakers have banned underweight models from catwalks and commercials, a measure they hope will reduce eating disorders and promote a healthy body image. The law says women and men cannot be hired for modelling work unless a doctor stipulates they are not underweight, with a body mass index (BMI) – a measure expressing a ratio of weight to height – of no less than 18.5. The law also bans the use of a person who “appears underweight” and says advertisers must explicitly state if graphic manipulation was done to make a model look thinner in a photo.
Vogue bans unhealthy models
Vogue, known as perhaps the world’s largest fashion magazine, has said that it will ban models who are too skinny or underage. The 19 editors of the magazine around the world have collectively made the pact to promote healthy looking models. Tell us what you think? Do you think the UK should adopt the same laws as Israel?
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Olivia’s diary Olivia Landin is the winner of the 2012 Every Model Magazine contest.She has won a host of prizes and opportunities including writing a diary for us...
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’m so excited and grateful to be writing my first ever diary entry for Every Model Magazine. Winning this title has been a massive shock for me as I honestly didn’t expect to. I remember my name being called out and it not registering for a few seconds, but here I am. Since winning, life has been pretty hectic. I have been holding down a full time job at a worldwide engineering company, finishing the
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first year of my management degree, working on a secret invention, and planning for Miss England. Almost immediately I was whisked off to London and had my first ever photo-shoot for EM with Alan Strutt which was very exciting. The pictures were amazing and I was so excited to see my face on the front cover of the spring edition. I was given the opportunity to model for Karen Karmody wearing
some of her amazing dresses at Essex Fashion week in April which was a new experience for me. I thoroughly enjoyed it and would love to do it again. I’ve also got an event coming up at the start of June in my local area which attracts 10,000 people in two days. I’ve got a reaction test game and a raffle going on so I’m hoping to raise lots of awareness for the Beauty for a Purpose charity.
I ran race for life last week. I have never done this before and I found it very moving seeing the messages on everyone’s backs of who they were supporting. It has motivated me to start training for next year where I hope to run 10k. Overall winning has been a bit of a blur and I honestly didn’t know what to expect as this was the first competition I had ever won. It has been a major learning experience in my life which I am very grateful to Every Model Magazine for. I won the Every Model competition on a Saturday night and had planned breast surgery on the Monday, just two days later as I wanted to boost my self-confidence as this is something I have always been self-conscious about. I phoned Ruth and I remember feeling so worried about what the reaction was going to be. I needn’t have worried though; Ruth was very supportive and talked it through with me. Winning Miss Every Model and now being in the finals of Miss England is amazing and a dream come true. This is what made me change my mind about going ahead with my breast surgery. I realise now that I don’t need it. I mean I have just won a beauty pageant without it as Ruth pointed out. Being in the position I am now has made me appreciate myself for who I am and given me masses of confidence. I have cancelled my surgery and have no plans whatsoever to change my body. I hope all girls and young women out there reconsider surgery after reading this story because everyone is beautiful the way they are and no-one should feel pressured to change their bodies so drastically. Going through this experience has given me determination in the competition to show other girls that they should reconsider breast enlargement surgery, especially at such a young age. I am only 19 years old. I have years ahead of me to grow, learn and experience life. Surgery is a massive decision and should be thought about for a long time beforehand. Being involved in the Every Model Magazine competition has been amazing so far. It helps young women’s dreams come true and encourages them to be proud of who they are.
Olivia x
10 TOP TIPS
yourself. And of course exercise helps you to maintain your ideal weight, keeping you satisfied with your appearance and therefore increasing confidence.
Smile
vee Gi Giv f l f e l s e r s u r u o y yo t s t s o o o b o b a a
Not a bad investment of your time and energy if I’m honest. Trust me when I say you will feel instantly happier if you smile. Put it this way, it’s easier to smile than not. It changes the state you are in, whether you are confused, angry or upset, smiling makes the world of difference. You can then start building on that to have a string of positive actions and interactions with other people throughout the day.
mbardini Empower Yourself Izabella Lo
As a model you are constantly auditioning for your next job, and you are only as good as your last one. Pressure and rejection are daily pitfalls of this profession. Developing personal skills to keep on top of your game and remain well and happy are of paramount importance to stay successful. Read Izabella’s top tips on how to boost your confidence and self esteem... Banish Negative Thoughts Be aware of what you are telling yourself because there’s a very high chance that for the majority of the time it is negative. Recognise how and when to be aware of your self-talk, and the thoughts you
have. Try to surround yourself with loved ones and positive energy, which enables you to think in the same way as they do. Another way to remove negativity from your mind is to attend Yoga classes or Pilates, which relaxes the mind, body and soul, reducing stress in the process.
Stand Tall Your posture is an expression of yourself. Such a simple change, but one that you will discover becomes very effective. Standing tall will automatically make you feel better about yourself. People who attain this posture also generally look more attractive and approachable.
Exercise, Exercise, Exercise Increasing your energy is one of the main components to increasing confidence. Exercise releases endorphins. Endorphins reduce stress levels and are the body’s natural feel good chemical. Exercise also releases adrenaline, serotonin, and dopamine. All these chemicals work together to make you feel great about
with Knowledge
In general, this is one of the best strategies for building confidence. By becoming more knowledgeable, you’ll be more confident. The Internet is obviously a great tool, but so are the people around you, people who have done what you want to do/admire, books, magazines etc.
Stop procrastinating! Often referred to as being plain lazy, you know who you are! Procrastinating is almost inevitable. Did you see how I said ‘almost’? That’s because you are able to overcome delaying these long awaited jobs, tasks or things on your to-do list by simply changing your mindset or your daily routine. Do them first thing in the morning and get them out of the way. You’ll feel more free to continue with your day knowing you can tick off the last bullet point on your to-do list.
Recognise Unique Qualities in Yourself One of the main factors in decreased confidence is that people don’t give themselves enough credit and don’t think of what they have achieved at home, at work or life in general. Congratulate yourself on your success the way a best friend would. Don’t say things like, ‘someone else could have done that better’, or ‘if only I could improve that’. There have been a number of physiological studies that link this type of thinking
to depression and lowering of self-esteem, so try to notice your accomplishments more often and praise yourself.
Look Good, Feel Fabulous Sometimes a new appearance can change your mood radically and your outlook on life. You don’t have to spend a fortune to do this. Head to your favourite hairdressers and ask for a consultation. See what they suggest you do to change your hair to complement your skin tone and lifestyle. You don’t have to go ahead with their idea but it’s sometimes wise and refreshing to get other’s opinions and to try something new. Alternatively, you might like to treat yourself to a calming beauty treatment or splash out and book a spa day with your closest friends. This will relax you and keep you thinking more positively by being surrounded by people who enjoy your company and being in a quiet, tranquil atmosphere.
Listen to Uplifting Music It’s a known fact that listening to depressing songs will make you feel glum almost instantly. You begin to feel doubtful about yourself and end up taking your mind back to upsetting memories. We all take the role of Bridget Jones sometimes by having a night in with ice cream and sobbing, some of us more than others. But actually, it’s sort of a guilty pleasure and we like feeling sorry for ourselves. Nevertheless, it doesn’t help boost confidence like inspiring and motivating music does. Try playing uplifting tracks before a night out, a big test or meeting, or anything that might make your confidence unstable. This works pretty well as a temporary state-booster.
Help Other People When you are helping people around you and making a difference you’ll know that you are making a helpful contribution in the world. Whether it’s volunteering at your local community centre or even simply helping an elderly person cross the road, your confidence will be boosted dramatically through recognising you are a positive force.
Every Model Magazine
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Photos: Fresh Academy
Scouted by
EM Magazine and now Modelling down under After meeting EM and make-up where professional moving to Australia. I have moved artists prepared us for the rest of the around a lot but I have been living Magazine at a day. The competition consisted of in England for seven years now and another shoot, an interview with the it was the last thing I expected. model search judges and a catwalk show in front contest, Gina Inglis of friends and family. 14th December 2011 After the show I was asked to was spotted by I have lived in Australia before but stay behind and that’s when Ruth Ruthie D and put Deane, the editor of Every Model I didn’t think leaving would be so magazine, asked me if I would be maybe it was because I forward to Hughes interested in being put forward to a strange, had only had a few weeks to say plus size model agency. I couldn’t goodbye to everyone. I knew it was Models as a believe it. But obviously I said yes! going to be hard but I remained potential plus size positive knowing I could try again and carry on modelling over there. I signing. 29th November 2011 was still in touch with Ruth and she 28th November 2011 – Fresh Teen Finals Day
I arrived at the studio not knowing what to expect. It started off in the morning with a no make-up shoot. Two shots were taken to impress the judges. We then made our way to hair
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The very next day I emailed Ruth and she put me in touch with Hughes Models. I sent in sample shots and discussed the possibility of joining their books.
7th December 2011 Then it all fell apart. A week before I was supposed to be travelling to London to sign up, I found out I was
asked me let her know if I managed to find any other work down under.
14th February 2012 Once I had time to get used to my new surroundings I started looking for a new agent. I was looking at agencies around where I now live in Sydney and that was when I came
across a company called Bella Models, one of the largest plus size modelling agencies in Australia. I decided that it was worth a try so I looked at how I could apply which included sending them an email with a few shots and measurements.
15th February 2012 They emailed me back! They’ve asked me to go in to meet them and look at joining the agency.
4th March 2012 I have spent the last few weeks talking to them about when I would be able to go into the office and today was my interview. I travelled down to the agency in Manly and met Lucy who I had been emailing. She spoke to me about the modelling industry and showed me a few magazine covers showcasing some of the other girls that are signed with Bella. After this she took some shots, my measurements and looked through my portfolio. I thought that everything had gone well but I was still so nervous to find out if I would get a contract.
12th March 2012
Bella want to give me a contract!
17th April 2012
I have been asked to be an extra in an Australian TV soap opera. I arrived at the set, met the directors and got changed into my costume for the day. You don’t realise how many takes they actually do until you’re on the set and have to keep doing the same thing over and over again. Great day though.
20th April 2012 I’ve had a few castings since joining Bella and today I had one for a swimwear shoot. When I arrived they asked me to try on two of their swim suits and took a few photos. It was the first time that I had ever done anything like this and I really enjoyed it.
10th May 2012
Even though I am modelling I also like other aspects of the industry. Having studied photography and currently studying textiles and design I managed to find an online website where I am able to apply to do volunteer work for fashion events such as Sydney Fashion Week and Sydney Fashion Weekend. Today I have been asked
to be a dresser back stage. I thought that it would be a good experience to get to know more about what happens back stage at big events. So that’s it from me this issue. I will keep updating my diary and bring you more news from down under next time.
Gina x Every Model Magazine
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TER ALIZE MOUN
Alize’s Top Tips After handing over her Every Model Magazine title to Olivia back in March, inside this issue Alize brings you some of her top beauty secrets... Do you have any beauty sins?
What’s your daily beauty routine? I’m obsessed with my teeth. I brush them before I step out the door. And that can be three or four times a day. I also fill a bottle with water and slices of lemon and lime every morning to take with me. It helps to keep me refreshed and hydrated.
What would be your desert island beauty must-have? Vaseline – I use it for everything. I apply it to my lips, my eyelashes to make them grow stronger, and sometimes I rub it into a dry bit of skin. It really works and I think the cocoa butter variety is great.
How do you keep your hair in such great condition? I use Moroccanoil shampoo and conditioner. I’ve got really fine hair but you can’t tell anymore – after just one wash, you see the results, it instantly thickens it.
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I always squeeze my spots. My mum always says “Don’t pick your spots,” but I pick and I pick until it’s all out and scabbed over! It’s better than having a big lump on your face. I’m awful, if I see a spot I can’t leave it alone.
Any other beauty secrets you can share? I think skin needs natural sunshine to give it a healthy glow that you can’t recreate, no matter how much bronzer you use. We don’t get much sun in the UK, but even sitting outside for five minutes for a boost of Vitamin D I think is good for you. But I always wear a high factor on my face when I go on holidays. It is important to stay protected. So I always use sunscreen at a level to suit the strength of the sun I am in.
What advice can you give to models about looking after their skin? Drink plenty of water, get a dose of vitamin D and wear no or little makeup as much as possible. Also exercise to keep your body in its best condition, taking particular notice to toning your body. Especially your arms and legs.
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Alanna Saskia Thomas – Before and After Photoshopping
Are supermodels so super without airbrushing?
ICHOL BY KIRSTY N
The modelling industry has gone hand in hand with the size zero debate and airbrushing for a while now, particularly when advertising firm Ogilvy created the Dove “campaign for real beauty” which showed the process of Photoshop and concluded that it’s no surprise that our perception of beauty is “distorted”. This campaign spread globally and has been followed by numerous measures such as banning models with a BMI of 18 or less from the catwalk and political campaigns to “say no to size zero”. 18
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“
I believe stating whether a photograph has been airbrushed or not is a great idea.It means girls aren’t going to be viewing these pictures wondering why they aren’t airbrush perfect too. Amy Willerton
M
ore recently a new law passed in March 2012 in countries such as Israel has stated that images which are airbrushed must state if they are so. This new law links into a current hot topic which questions whether the modelling industry is advocating a size zero body through Photoshop. When interviewing a model agent from a reputable agency they maintained that, “airbrushing a photo isn’t advocating a size zero body”. On the other hand, it appears that studies in the UK have found evidence that anorexia nervosa is a socially transmitted disease and exposure to skinny models may be a contributing factor in the cause of anorexia. “May” is the key word here, as no concrete evidence has been found to confirm that exposure to airbrushed images of slim models can cause eating disorders. This idea is complemented from a recent survey of 89 people in which 100% of respondents agreed that they would not sacrifice their health to be a size zero. Equally there was also a 50% split in the same survey which asked whether airbrushed images encouraged eating disorders. Remarkably, it seems as though there is no middle ground, as that 82% of people surveyed claimed they wouldn’t like to see published images of models that were an average UK size 16. What was more surprising was that 67% of respondents also said they wouldn’t like to see published images that had not
”
been airbrushed. When asked why this might be so, Veronica Voronina CEO of lifestyle and business management company ‘The Anonymous’ said “I think airbrushing and Photoshop is also a form of art, as is photography, sculpture and painting. It’s become such a common medium, why running the illusion and mystery”. Is it a mystery though? When originally reading about this new law my first thoughts were “what’s the point?” Surely people can obviously tell if an image has been airbrushed or not. It turns out I was wrong. To the left are two images of a healthy size 8 model and singer Alanna Saskia Thomas. Alanna is on the books of EM Magazine accredited agency Beau Belle Models and has worked on successful campaigns from Pineapple to Provoke Cosmetics. The photos are taken by ModelWorx and photographer Adam Johns, one photo has been airbrushed and the other one hasn’t. At first glance it is easy to see that Alanna doesn’t need any airbrushing. More importantly there is remarkably little difference between the two images, although it is obvious to me that there is some difference even if it is small. For example, when comparing the two photos it is apparent that in one photo Alanna’s skin is lighter, stray hairs have been erased and colours have been enhanced. Surprisingly it seems as though my judgement is not shared as when asking 20
girls which images have been airbrushed, 4 girls guessed incorrectly. As almost a quarter of the girls asked believed the airbrushed images to be natural this illuminates the possible need to enforce laws which make publications state if their images have been Photoshopped. There is also a possible need to question the mystery of model publications. Would you prefer to see the first image published in a magazine or on a billboard? In 2009 photos of celebrity Kim Kardashian were mistakenly released pre-Photoshop. What was most striking about these photos was not Kim’s supposed “cellulite” however, what the retouchers decided to change, such as the lightening and smoothing of Kim’s skin rather than making Kim any smaller than she already is. The original unairbrushed photo was harmless, Kim looked beautiful just as Alanna does in her unairbrushed images. With this in mind if models and celebrities are still beautiful without a little electronic nipping and tucking then surely we should ask whether airbrushing is truly necessary at all. Equally it is fair to say and could be argued that not everyone is blessed with Kim’s curvaceous figure and Alanna’s luscious locks so who wouldn’t like a helping hand from Photoshop? Although laws specifically regarding airbrushing have not quite made it to the UK yet, what we have seen already is something similar in connection to post-production and enhancement. For example,
Watchdog banned Georgia Jagger’s mascara advertisement in 2010 as Rimmel had failed to state that they had actually used lash inserts and consequently exaggerated the effects of their product. With this in mind, new airbrushing laws also raise other issues of airbrushing outside of the modelling industry. As you can see in the images, it is not just Alanna who is airbrushed but her clothes too. Where do we draw the line? If clothes have been enhanced with Photoshop, is it only fair that companies once again state that they have been so? When asked how she felt about these new airbrushing laws, the newly crowned Miss London 2012 Amy Willerton said “I believe stating whether a photograph has been airbrushed or not is a great idea. It means girls aren’t going to be viewing these pictures wondering why they aren’t airbrush perfect too. The law is a good middle ground as it still allows brands and advertisers to edit and display images as they please but without damaging self-esteem”. Ultimately it appears that stating whether a photo has been shopped or not is more of a safe middle ground and wouldn’t be such a terrible thing to bring over to the UK. Girls aren’t under the pretence that some of these models and celebrities are naturally that thin, published images still maintain their “perfection” and hopefully young girls won’t feel it necessary to try and naturally achieve something that is actually artificial.
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Photos provided by UK Model Folios
on BY Fay L Bac
ARTVSTART One thing I love most about my job is the people I get to meet and work with every day. Particularly on photoshoots where I find myself integrating on a personal level with everyone on set, I associate and learn about people that at one point given the opportunity, I would have avoided on the presumption that we had nothing in common. But now I have learned to never judge a book by its cover, to be aware of contradictions in the modelling industry, and ignore public opinion unless proven correct. It is on this basis, I want to discuss the ambiguous perception of nudity in the glamour and fashion industry, eloquently labelled by me, ‘Art Vs Tart.’
I
have worked with both fashion and glamour models. Some correlate with the stereotypical personality traits assigned to their model genre but others are anything but. I use glamour models as a main example because, for me, they seem to battle against
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the largest preconceptions- dumb, sex-obsessed and tarty. The real truth is glamour modelling is a job and it takes talent. Off the camera, glamour models are normal women with common insecurities, and… wait for it… brains. I have known many glamour models that use their job to pay for their degrees or fund a course at college. Glamour modelling requires an overtly sexual type of posing and bearing of erogenous body parts. Targeting a male audience, glamour models generally pose topless or up to implied nude. After sex icons such as Pamela Anderson set the glamour world alight, protégés have attempted to follow in her footsteps dying their hair peroxide blonde and having very large breast augmentations. One may argue it is this transition from natural to ‘Barbie Doll’, which highlights the huge physical gap between a fashion and glamour model. After all, it is the fashion model that despite possibly undergoing
similar surgical procedures or cosmetic enhancements too, still has the ability to showcase a natural, virginal beauty by how she is showcased to the world in her picture. But arguably when assessing the concept of nudity or sexuality in modelling as a whole, something both a fashion and glamour model has in common is the purpose of their job- to sell. Regardless of whether that is to sell a brand, a magazine, or them, when stripped back to basics they are using their physical attributes to sell a product. The thing that differs is their target audience fashion gurus and Vogue’s readership are different to a that of Nuts or ZOO magazine, however if something is sexy, it’s sexy, regardless of where it’s published or who sees it. The human eye is geared up to appreciate beauty and both types of models do this. As time has progressed, society’s perception of sex has arguably changed. What once
was perceived as raunchy is now tame. Take the iconic Marilyn Monroe’s ‘dress blowing in the wind’ incident, in its day this was as sexy as it got, but now we have implied naked grinding on our televisions before the watershed. This public craving for raunchiness has affected advertising i.e. It has become far sexier. It was campaigns such as Kate Moss and Mark Wahlberg’s topless debut for Calvin Klein, which sparked the need for bearing flesh and proved how effective it could be. Yet from a glamour models perspective it is confusing, plus frustrating how an iconic model like Moss could begin her career from posing topless in lingerie without being branded tarty. The answer quite possibly lies in its presentation. Presentation is an explanation for the difference between nudity in glamour and fashion i.e. how it is portrayed. When a nude fashion campaign is shot, the use of model is carefully selected as is make-up, lighting, styling and
photography. Posing is also a huge part of the image with fashion models tending to curl their bodies inwards, creating a very slender, almost child-like frame and vulnerability. The sexuality is conveyed in their eyes and facial expressions. Glamour models are opposite. They accentuate their curves and demonstrate a mature femininity by exaggerating their sexuality. It is through our own subconscious association with the naked breast or bum that we presume they are selling us their bodies, whereas through the strategic facial and body posing of a fashion model we concentrate on the whole package. To conclude, I take a quote from Dame Helen Mirren, ‘Flesh sells. People don’t want to see pictures of churches. They want to see naked bodies.’ What we need to look at, as a society is the bigger picture. Are glamour and fashion models really that different when looking at the crux of what they’re doing? Or is it just the way the picture is portrayed? My view is to never judge the model and her beauty by the way she has been created. When the make-up’s taken off and the cameras stop, she’s as beautiful and vulnerable as the lady stood next to her.
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Beauty with Jo
TICK… TOCK… TIME IS RUNNING OUT TO:
FRESHEN UP YOUR FOUNDATION FOR THE SUMMER!
Have you ever bought a foundation that has been the wrong colour? Wrong coverage? Or just wrong? If the answer is yes then here’s a few tips to help you on the way... When choosing a foundation it is important that you get the right type for you. Browsing through endless counters in search of a perfect
match can be very frustrating. Think about the coverage, do you need full coverage? Will this be suitable in the day? Do you like light weight consistency or maybe a tinted moisturiser? Remember less is more. The secret to flawless skin is don’t mask it, reveal your fresh glow, enhance your radiance and let the real you be seen!
Up North
Contour Roller Facial....
N
ouveau Beauty Group and training academy invited me for their latest anti-ageing facial treatment. The salon in Yorkshire is owned by the renowned beauty professional Karen Betts. The treatment was carried out in a clinical but relaxing environment and was fully explained to me by my therapist. The aim of the treatment is to stimulate the production and regrowth of the skin by using a hand held pin encapsulated roller which glides over each area of the face and neck (or body). The treatment lasted around an hour and at the end my after care products and instructions were given to me. I looked very pink but I was told that is a normal reaction which gradually faded as the day progressed. The next morning I was glowing. I felt like I had my teenage skin back! I had hardly any redness or marks but a plumper more youthful appearance. I absolutely love the results from just one treatment so imagine the effects of a full course. This treatment definitely deserves a try...
Top Tip Book in for a consultation at a local department store, beauty salon or make-up artist and get expert advice, find out about your skin type and make sure you are trying the colours on the jaw line area not the back of the hand as you need it to match and blend with the colour of your neck and body.
Beauty Editor likes... • Revlon Photoready Airbrush mousse foundation. • This foundation feels weightless while providing a medium flawless coverage which is buildable. • Revlon Photoready Eye Primer and Brightner. • This is a perfect two in one product which acts as an eyeshadow base and illuminator for dark circles.
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For more information contact: 0845 644 3994 or email: info@contour-roller.co.uk
Beauty with Jo
JO TIMMS
Essex Fashion Week
Em loves........
On April 8th Essex came to life with a fashion show to make you “Well Jell”.
S
howcasing some of the latest collections were Amy Childs, fashion designer Joey Bevan, Kandi clothing and classic couture dresses by Karen Karmody who has recently opened her appointment only exclusive boutique in Barnet London, to name but a few. Hundreds of visitor’s celebrities and VIP’s took their seats for the live catwalk display, models included Miss Every Model Magazine 2012, Scousewife Elissa Corrigan and Amy Childs.
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s we know summer is here and it’s all about the tan!! But lets face it how much is too much? For the perfect natural golden glow apply Fake Bake original lotion to the face and body or you can visit a salon for a professional application for maximum results. For that extra shimmer in the evenings or special occasions apply Fake Bake Instant Wash Off Shimmer for a gorgeous deep bronzed looking skin!! The beauty is you can shower this off and you will still have a lovely tan underneath!! For more information visit www.fakebake.co.uk
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Out and About TIMMS BY JOANNE
Em recommends... Milton Keynes
dereck CHISORA
ELL NANCY SORR
T LEO BANCROF
RUTH LANGSFORD
W
ell I couldn’t turn up to the launch of Leo Bancroft’s product launch without having a blow dry.... so I was kindly invited to “Headonist” hair and beauty salon situated in the modern hub of Milton Keynes, I was greeted by their very friendly and professional stylists. The decor was very welcoming and chic and I was soon offered luxury refreshments, which was fantastic! Theresa who gave me a massive blow dry was very creative and very experienced, I was so pleased! Thank you ladies for a wonderful hairdressing experience. To contact or make an appointment please contact: 01908 609 898
E TIMMS EM’S JOANN 24
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Lash-boutique pride themselves on their personal touch. With this in mind, their vast range of eyelashes are all named, not numbered. Dependant on your mood you can wear, amongst others, a Gracie, Demi or even a Lou-Lou.
tel: 07855 761 595
email sales@lashboutique.net or sales@bowtiqueinc.co.uk
You can also follow Lash-Boutique on twitter @Lashboutique2 Visit the website at www.bowtiqueinc.co.uk
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BECOME ACCREDITED I
EM Magazine Accreditation
EM Magazine EM Code of Conduct Accreditation & Ethics Standards
O
ur organisation believes that the reputability, conscience and level of professionalism within the modelling and entertainment industry is of paramount importance. As an independent organisation we operate a process to every applicant wishing to be accredited to us. The process consists of applicants completing a number of non-bias questions designed by subject matter experts within the industry. Upon successful completion and satisfactory answers to the questions and by agreeing to the terms and conditions of the code of conduct applicants are invited to be listed within the Every Model Industry Directory. All agents listed within the directory are required to comply with the following code of conduct, and subsequently are subject to an independent complaints procedure. Once approval has been granted by ‘Every Model’ the agent is permitted to display the EM logo in their corporate literature with the wording ‘Accredited and Approved Agent’. This Code of Conduct is intended to give guidance alone, on the standard of service that a client should expect from those Service Providers who agree to abide by the Code. The responsibility for the prevention and control of reputability and credibility lies with the Service Provider. The guidelines outlined have been designed to help clients select a competent service provider by highlighting critical areas and detailing the commitment that clients should expect from prospective service
providers. Management of the Every Model Code of Conduct is monitored by an independent steering committee. The Every Model Code of Conduct & Ethics is committed to ensuring that its business is conducted in all respects according to rigorous ethical, professional and legal standards and deems that those complying with its content agree to: Commitment to fair business practices Commitment to honest business practices Respecting the confidentiality of information entrusted to the company obeying the rule of law 1. The agency / industry professional, organisation, service provider, will act in the best interest of their client(s). 2. Agents are obliged to comply with the Data Protection Act 1998, and to notify clients of the purpose for which Personal Data is processed. 3. Total confidentiality will be maintained in respect of personal contact details of clients, subject only to the following exceptions: a) Disclosures with the express permission of the client(s). b) Disclosures which lead the organisation to believe that serious harm may befall a third party. c) Disclosures that would leave the agent or client liable to civil or criminal court procedure if not disclosed. 4. Child Models: Every child model registered by an agent will be licensed by their local borough council. This is a requirement under law Children and Young Persons Act 1963, The Children’s (Performances) Regulations 1968 and Television Act 1964. Any child models pictures displayed on an internet website are required to be either resized or password controlled. 5. Agents will be subject to the Every Model complaints procedure; Disclaimer Every Model Magazine is at liberty to print details within the main body of the magazine and website, of Agents not accredited by them or those not complying with their code of conduct. This being in order to provide the industry with a non-bias and wide variety of information and
relevant topics. However, only agents complying with the code of conduct shall be accredited by Every Model Magazine and listed within the Industry Directory. Every Model Magazine reserves the right to publish the removal of any agency once accredited by them should it be considered by the steering committee that they have breached the code and / or an independent complaint is considered proved as below.
For further information on the Every Model Initiative, Code of Conduct and Accreditation, please contact the Editor: editor@emmagazine.co.uk
ndependent Complaints Procedure Agents agreeing to abide by the Every Model Code of Conduct, and who are subsequently entered onto our database and Industry Directory, are subject to the following complaints procedure: 1. The only person who is entitled to make an official complaint about the standard of work or business of a particular agent is a client, or someone acting in the best interests of a client. 2. All complaints must be made in writing to: The Managing Director at Every Model Magazine, Model Media Ltd, Registered Office or by email to info@ emmagazine.co.uk. 3. The client will be sent an acknowledgement, and further information obtained if necessary. The agent will be sent a copy of the complaint and information, and asked to respond directly to ‘Every Model’. 4. Independent and impartial persons, who are not associated with ‘Every Model’, will be asked to examine the details of the original complaint together with the agent’s response, and will seek clarification where required. 5. The independent and impartial persons may: a) Find the complaint proved b) Find the complaint unproved 6. In the event that the complaint is found proved, the agent will be informed that they will: a) Have their name deleted from the Database and Industry Directory b) Not be entitled to use their accredited and associated status with Every Model. c Under no circumstances will an agent be able to use the accredited status branding such as logos in any material or on websites after the removal of accreditation. 7. In the event that the complaint is found proved, the agent will be informed of the length of time that the sanctions mentioned in paragraph 6 will apply, and any conditions required for their lifting. 8. The client, or person making the complaint, will be notified of the decision. 9. Appeal process. The client is entitled to appeal against the decision. This must be done in writing within 14 days of the decision being made.
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If you would like to be accredited and listed in the Every Model Industry Directory please contact us at: editor@ emmagazine.co.uk
Every Model Magazine
Accredited agent
Industry Directory
Bizzy Kidz
Bonnie & Betty
Chilli Models
Tel: 020 7590 3010 www.alexandria-m.com
Tel: 020 8303 2627 www.bizzykidz.com bookings@bizzykidz.com
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Chilli Models: 01952 320230 Chilli Kids: 01952 320280 www.chillimodels.com
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Tel: 0871 703 1111 www.dynamitemodels.com
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Model Union
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Nevs Models Girls 020 7352 9496 Men 020 7352 4886 www.nevs.co.uk paul@nevs.co.uk
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Benefits to agents and professionals listed: • Accredited and approved status. • Exposure to the modelling and fashion industry • Exposure to casting agents, directors and broadcasting companies. • Added reassurance to models that the EM independent board will oversee any problems as detailed within the EM independent complaints procedure. Benefits to models and others represented by agents listed: • Added security in knowing your agent is subject to the EM independent complaints procedure should any situation of concern arise. • All agents listed within the EM industry directory have agreed to abide by the EM code of conduct. How to become accredited and listed: Step one – apply for accreditation to the directory in writing to the editor, editor@emmagazine.co.uk Step two – upon acceptance by the EM board you will be invited to be listed in the directory and entitled to use the ‘accredited and approved logo’ on your corporate literature. For full details of the EM Independent complaints procedure and code of conduct please visit www.emmagazine.co.uk
Oxygen Models Tel: 0207 351 2000 www.oxygenmodels.com info@oxygenmodels.com
Spirit Models Tel: 01952 501145 www.spiritmodels.co.uk info@spiritmodels.co.uk
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