No 297 / Summer 2013
made in Italy
COUTURE BOOTH #153 T. 310 319 9600 - info@testiusa.com - www.rebecca.it
Seventies collection
Kagem emerald mine, Zambia 2012
Gemfields: the world’s leading producer of ethically-sourced rare coloured gemstones. Sustainability, set in stone. www.gemfields.co.uk +44 (0)20 7518 3400
Earrings by Shaun Leane, ring by Alexandra Mor
Mila Kunis, Los Angeles 2012
IN THIS ISSUE On the Cover Selection of rings in 18K white gold and gemstones by Jochen Pohl.
60
Cover Feature, page 16 www.jochenpohl.com
Marketplace – NAC Amber
34 Mixing It Up – Vianna Brasil
Editor’s Letter 12
23
Colour Trends – Bavna
Still More Colour
Cover Feature 16
Jochen Pohl – Artistic Architecture
Profiles 20 22 31 32 44 50
Bizzotto Gioielli – Traditional Savoir-Faire 2(X)ist – Time Will Tell Interview – Bergio in the Spotlight Jye’s International, Quality Uncompromised Tivoli Jewels – The Exquisite World of Nar Wong Gainerie 91 – Expertise & Know-How Applied to Luxury Packaging
Ethical Business Practices 46
Building Confidence – Why it Matters
Amber Symposium 62
All About Amber
Marketplace
44 32 Profile – Jye’s International
Fashion Colours 23
Colours Moving into Fall 2013
Trends & Colours 34 36 38 40 42
Mixing It Up Fire & Ice A Bug’s Life Something Old... Amazing Amber
52 Vicenzaoro Winter 2013 – Positive Signs for Italian Brands 56 Antwerp Diamond Trade Fair – A Sparkling Success 60 Amberif 2013 – 20 Years of Amazing Amber 66 Thailand’s World of Silver 70 HKIJS – 30 Years & Counting 74 Dazzling in Doha 78 SIHH – Poetry, Tradition, & Métiers d’Art 80 Jewels and Gems Dazzle in the Desert 86 BaselWorld – A New Dimension
Opinions 90
What People Are Saying About CIJ Trends & Colours
89
Index
Profile – Tivoli Jewels
36
70
Marketplace – E & V Jewellery
Fire & Ice Cris Porto
23 Colour Trends – Emerald
Editor: Cynthia Unninayar • Contributors: Diana S. Zimmerman, T. R. Flora, Barbara Wheat, Antonella Scorta, • Advertising Contacts: Nathalie Glattfelder nglattfelder@europastar.com, T +41 22 307 7832; Alexandra Montandon, amontandon@ europastar.com, T 41 22 307 7847; Italy - Alessandra Arati, aarati@studioarati.it, T +39 024 851 7853 / Spain - Carles Sapena csapena@europastar.es, T +34 93 112 7113 / Asia - Maggie Tong, maggietong@europastar.com, T + 852 9658 1830 / India - Bhupal Potdar, bhupalpotdar@gmail.com, T +91 98 2115 1035 / USA - Karen Nuckols, knuckols@CIJintl.com, T +1 610 986 7285 • Graphic Design: Laurence Chatenoud, Tasha Unninayar • Managing Director: Philippe Maillard • Website: www.CIJintl.com. Published by Europastar HBM SA, 25 Route des Acacias, 1227 Carouge, Geneva, Switzerland, T +41 22 307 7837; Fax: +41 22 300 3748; Email: contact@CIJintl.com Printed in Geneva by SRO-Kundig • Copyright 2013 by Europa Star • www.europastar.com All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without the written permission of CIJ TRENDS & COLOURS.
“There are two men inside the artist, the poet and the craftsman. One is born a poet. One becomes a craftsman.� Emile Zola, French artist
Beauty is present in nearly every
piece of fine jewelry, but the poetry is in the details. There is an ode to precision in a gentle curve of precious metal. The expertly cut facet of each diamond is a verse in brilliance. There is a sonnet of life in the luster of a South Sea pearl. The finished piece is an epic, a heroic triumph that is possible only with the properly honed talent of the craftsman.
Perfection is the standard in the hallowed halls that grace Place Vendôme, the origin of skills carefully taught to the Jewelmer Joaillerie jewelers. Classic methods with rich history have crossed oceans to the Philippines, where similarly gifted artists continue to hone and elevate the very same craft. With time, dedication, and inborn talent, they reach the level of the fine craftsman, able to produce fine jewelry that dazzles the senses and captures the imagination. Jewelmer Joaillerie’s heritage is cradled in the core of the classic French tradition of high jewelry and genuine Filipino sensibilities. Each South Sea pearl is matched to perfection. The design is stirred by the soul of the designer. Every diamond is meticulously set to display its brilliant facets. All the graceful curves of 18-Karat gold are skillfully polished and molded with attention to the minutest detail. The completed piece is a joy to behold: born from inspiration and also able to inspire.
COUTURE
Salon 146, Lafite Ballroom
JOAILLERIE
EDITOR’S
LETTER
STILL MORE COLOUR
W
ith the warm Summer weather comes a season full of colour, both in jewellery and in fashion. As you know, I am a bit partial to colour, and I cover it a lot, since it is the biggest trend in jewellery. In fact, colour is now so pervasive that we probably shouldn’t call it a trend at all. Having said that, however, I can and do appreciate beautiful white diamonds, and on that subject, you can see some spectacular examples in the “Fire & Iceâ€? spread on pages 36 and 37. Getting back to colour, I recently did an informal survey of a few stores to see what particular shades were especially popular. No surprise really, just about all colours are doing well, but the greens seem to have a slight edge (as a reminder, Pantone’s Colour of the Year is Emerald). Tourmaline, emerald, and tsavorite seem to be the gems of choice in this category. But, it is not just about single colours. Designers are mixing things up with interesting juxtapositions of different hues. A number of examples can be seen in the “Mixing It Upâ€? spread on pages 34 and 35. Even fashion designers are creating a dialogue between colours, combining different tones of the same colour or pairing vastly different hues to make their own vibrant statements. In this Summer issue, we again feature the Pantone colours for Fall, along with assorted jewellery. Although the Fall hues have evolved somewhat from the Spring colours featured in our Winter trends guide, Pantone feels that Emerald green is so strong that it will continue throughout the cold months. That can certainly be said for jewellery made with emeralds, of which there has been no shortage at the recent jewellery shows. Speaking of shows, it has been a really busy Winter and Spring fair season, and in this issue we report here on the many creative pieces seen from A to V—from Amberif to Vicenza, passing by Antwerp, Bangkok, Basel, Doha, Geneva, Hong Kong, Phoenix, and Tucson. While most shows are international, each has its own characteristics, which makes it special and worth visiting and sharing with you. While the general mood at all the shows has been rather upbeat, most exhibitors still feel the economy and the industry have some distance to go before things get back to normal. Yet, we might ask ourselves if this is the new “normal?â€? When asked about buyers, exhibitors at nearly all the shows responded that the major buyers were from the emerging East European countries and Asia, most notably China. This seemed to be the case not only for jewellery, but also for gemstones. Whether in Hong Kong, Tucson, Bangkok or Basel, Asians were among the biggest purchasers of diamonds and gems. The look eastward was also very apparent at the recent BaselWorld show, where fair organizers held press conferences not only in English, but also in Chinese. Trade in our industry is thus both ways. While many Europeans and Americans go to Hong Kong to buy goods, the Chinese are purchasing from the West. ,Q DGGLWLRQ WR RXU 7UHQGV &RORXUV SDJHV GHVLJQHU SURÂżOHV DQG YDULRXV RWKHU DUWLFOHV ZH feature the Jewelers Ethics Association. Based in the USA, although open to the international community, its membership includes retailers, manufacturers, gem dealers, laboratories, and consumers, who are committed to upholding ethical standards within the trade, especially in terms of disclosure and access to information. Lastly, I would like to thank those of you who have expressed your appreciation for CIJ Trends & Colours. Your comments are truly appreciated, and some of these wonderful remarks are presented in this issue. We look forward to seeing you at the upcoming Summer shows, and have a great and SURÂżWDEOH VXPPHU
Cynthia Yoana Baraschi, using Pantone’s Acai, Samba, and Linden Green. 12
Cynthia Unninayar Editor-in-Chief
C O V E R
F E AT U R E
JOCHEN POHL ARTISTIC ARCHITECTURE Rings of true artistry, pieces of jewellery and elegant riches all at once, are powerful symbols. This certainly applies to Jochen Pohl’s unique creations—beautiful, coveted pieces that evoke a new kind of sophistication with a sculptural expression. Clearly, the artist is inspired by architecture. By T.R. Flora
J
ochen Pohl has become very well known for his exclusive pieces of jewellery. Located in the German town of IdarOberstein, he continues the family tradition. Trained as a goldsmith at a young age—as was his father—he soon developed a visionary passion for his work. It is a passion that enables him to design jewellery for people who are not looking merely for something special, but for those who appreciate uncompromising craftsmanship. As a perfectionist himself, Pohl oversees each piece as it is conceived, handcrafted, and then set with the unique precious stones that he selects. From beginning to end, Pohl sees his jewellery transformed into one-of-a-kind items. Idar-Oberstein is globally renowned as a centre for trade and workmanship for the most exquisite precious gemstones. And, when it comes to having a trained eye and the requisite sensibility for selecting the stones, there is no one more conscientious or talented than Jochen Pohl. He strongly believes that it is essential to recognize the unique character of a precious gem and to understand its worth. 16
The designer’s striking handwork is quite unmistakeable by the subtle extravagance of its design. Simple yet opulent, it creates a sculptural and sensual character. Jochen Pohl jewellery is an enduring blend of radical modernity and a conscious sense of tradition. Often the design depends upon the ring itself, and enables the formation of carefully composed stages on which the uniqueness of each individual stone is given pride of place. Ring 101 C is one of the iconic pieces in Pohl’s remarkable collection. The extraordinary design of the 101 C, with its striking apertures and grooves, was inspired by classical architecture. Formal elements from sacred buildings have been subtly evoked in his creations. The openings in his rings are thus reminiscent of cathedral apertures and windows, which let the sunlight streak in, creating bold silhouettes in a poignant and almost monumental interplay of light and shadow. All of Jochen Pohl’s pieces are characterized by classical elements in architecture, such as the Golden Ratio. In these meticu-
lously crafted compositions, you can almost see the finely coffered ceilings in an ancient columned hall or the dome of St Peter’s Basilica. In the natural shape of the ring, you can visualize the distinctive hollows, subtle lines, and balanced arches, all flowing with the harmonious form of the circle. The aesthetic proportions are in line with the design principles of eminent Renaissance architect, Andrea Palladio, whose works are characterized by their sense of balance and harmony. The essence of the pieces can be likened to the clear and simple designs of the Romantic era. Jochen Pohl combines geometric shapes and architectural features to create balanced and sophisticated compositions, culminating in an altogether surprising sensuality. And, when on the finger, these sensual, finely balanced, and sculptural forms are felt in a delicate manner by the wearer. To experience Jochen Pohl’s jewellery firsthand, meet the designer at the Couture Show in Las Vegas, where he will be introducing his new TYPE collection. (www.jochenpohl.com)
Vicenzaoro About J Baselworld Luxury by JCK Centurion Scottsdale Centurion South Beach Feninjer S達o Paulo St. Petersburg Moscow
New US Office in Florida Tel: + 1 561 826 1100 US toll free: 888 679 3088 www.viannabrasil.com infousa@viannabrasil.com
P R O F I L E
BIZZOTTO GIOIELLI: TRADITIONAL SAVOIR-FAIRE A long history of love and dedication began more than forty years ago when Cesare Bizzotto, a young goldsmith, introduced himself to the world of fine gold jewelry with his own line of sophisticated necklaces. By Karen Nuckols
These colourful 18K gold rings from the brand’s “Cocktail” collection are set with a ring of diamonds and variety of beautiful natural gemstones.
New arrivals to the Bizzotto Gioielli family of elegant jewels, these colourful and delicate 18K gold “Flower” rings are embellished with diamond pavé and natural stone centres.
T
hroughout the years, Cesare Bizzotto has expanded his portfolio of artisanal ability and creativity with the knowledge of technical skills. After establishing a name for himself on the international level, he decided to follow his dream and create a jewelry label that bears his family name. The crowned “B” mark on each piece of jewellery symbolizes the passion, dedication to excellence, and creativity that each creation of Bizzotto Gioielli has embodied since the brand began in 2008. It did not take long for Bizzotto Gioielli to carve out a place for itself in the highly competitive market of fine jewellery. Customers quickly recognized that the brand’s stylish jewellery is a fine mix of tradition, savoirfaire, and experience with a sophisticated and elegant approach to design, while also using modern technical manufacturing methods for its precious creations. The brand’s greatest strength rests on the founder’s many years of experience in gold jewellery manufacturing, combined with his understanding of modern techniques in creating pavé jewellery. Also important is his passion for natural coloured gemstones. We must also mention his original aesthetic sensibility as well.
20
Left: A gold necklace from the new “Firmament” collection of fine jewellery is made in 18K satin-finished yellow and white gold, and set with diamonds.
Bizzotto Gioielli pieces feature precious stones cast in 18K gold. An identifying characteristic of a classic Bizzotto Gioielli piece is the solid cable chain used as an accent. The chains are exclusively designed for each collection.
Bizzotto Gioielli’s goal is to create sublimely crafted jewellery that is timeless, with sleek styling and smart elegance, jewellery that will undoubtedly be passed down from one generation to the next. (www.bizzottogioielli.com)
From the “Pepite” collection, this necklace is in satin-finished 18K gold with aysmmetric golden nuggets set with diamonds.
www.bizzottogioielli.com
P R O F I L E
TIME WILL TELL In an industry more than two centuries years old—where what’s old is new—what does it take to innovate? Jason Wilbur and 2(X)ist joined forces to answer that very question. By Barbara Wheat
Jason Wilbur
A
nd, the answer might just surprise you. It is all about revolutionizing the world of watchmaking with a line of innovative first-ever timepieces. Together, the active-wear firm and the industrial design wunderkind sought to inject a dose of stealth design and excitement into the world of watchmaking. To outsiders, this might, at first, seem like an unlikely pairing. After all, 2(X)ist is known for its high performance and highly stylized men’s underwear, and Jason Wilbur is a design-industry darling with a penchant for all things cutting-edge, from cars to footwear. Yet, the pair shared a synchronized vision in developing the firstever watch for 2(X)ist. Called “The NYC,” it debuts at Couture Las Vegas in June 2013. Inspired by the dynamism, movement, architecture, and energy of New York City, home of 2(X)ist, The NYC has a sculptural design. Its striking 46-mm anodized aluminum case is multi-layered with a skeleton back, enabling the wearer to appreciate its complex movement. Each angle presents a unique silhouette that is both strong and edgy, drawing inspiration from the scaffolding, bridges, and steel-andglass structures so typical of New York. Other innovative materials include G10 polymer and ceramic. The steel bezel that surrounds the dial is sealed via visible stainless steel screws. The K1 mineral glass dial reveals brightly coloured hand indexes and numbers. Each watch comes with a silicone strap with the 2(X)ist logo with a steel buckle and deep mark etching. There are 12 versions overall, with various colour options for the straps, hour and minute hands, and dial treatments. 22
“I grew up in New York and I have a lot of respect for New York City. With this [project], I got to go back to my roots and get back to what New York City represents,” says Jason Wilbur. “It’s a crazy concrete jungle. It’s the most three dimensional city I’ve ever experienced, not just because of the architecture, but because of the emotion.” Morris Chabbott, Managing Director of 2(X)ist, concurs. “Like Jason, I am a native New Yorker, and so Manhattan is certainly the core of our inspiration. We aimed to capture the spirit, the ambition, and the passion of the city in this timepiece, and I believe that we have achieved that.” While The NYC by 2(X)ist retails for an approachable $495, Chabbott and Wilbur view it as a piece of fine design, one that invites both fledgling and knowledgeable watch collectors to experience. “For the man who has everything, from Audemars Piguet to Patek
Philippe, The NYC is a curiosity. It is beautiful and he just needs to have it.” Chabbott goes on to add, “For the novice watch collector, who has long dreamed of the experience of buying a fine watch, but hasn’t yet crossed the threshold of collecting fine timepieces, the 2(X)ist is a gateway into that rarefied world.” The media has also been talking about 2(X)ist’s venture into timepieces. The New York Times wrote that 2(X)ist is taking “a timely leap of faith” into the category, while Women’s Wear Daily, said that 2(X)ist is on “the fast track to becoming a multi-category men’s lifestyle brand, starting with the debut of timepieces.” “I’m ecstatic about this timepiece,” continues Chabbott. “As a collector of watches for a long time, it is the watch that draws the most interest from friends and colleagues. It is something of a sensation!” (www.time2xist.com)
C O L O U R
TR E N D S
Colours Moving into Fall 2013
Crivelli
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Denise James
By Cynthia Unninayar
Michael Endlich
Gordon Aatlo Designs
Gemfields Emerald
HervĂŠ LĂŠger by Lubov Azria using Pantone Linden Green. This colour brings a lightness and brightness to the deeper shades of fall. Jochen Pohl
Carla Amorim
Rodney Rayner Syna
Antonini J Jewels Milano
Muzo International Emerald
Saunder by Emily Saunder using Pantone Emerald. The color of the year, multi-faceted Emerald continues to sparkle and fascinate, bringing luxury and elegance to the palette.
Faberge, Gemfields Emerald
Fashion sketches and colours are courtesy of Pantone Fashion Color Report Fall 2013.
23
C O L O U R
T R E N D S
Colours Moving into Fall 2013 Vianna
Vianna
Yvel
Suzy Landa
Bellarri
Arunashi
Penny Preville
Georland
Tadashi Shoji using Pantone Vivacious, an unruly and wildly deep fuchsia, which adds an ebullient sensuality to the palette.
24
Nouvelle Bague
Opera Omnia
Sandy Leong
Fashion sketches and colours are courtesy of Pantone Fashion Color Report Fall 2013.
Steven Alan using Pantone Carafe, a rich, glamorous brown that pairs gracefully with more expressive colors within the palette.
JOCHENPOHL.COM
C O L O U R
T R E N D S
Colours Moving into Fall 2013 Clementina Duarte
Anzie MVee
Bavna
Sharart
Yael Designs Luca Carati
Jenny Packham using Pantone Mykonos Blue, a bold, meditative blue, for a classic and relaxed Fall look.
Cris Porto
OMI Gems
Alice K
Rachel Roy using Pantone Samba, a red offering an expressive and dramatic look.
Jack Kelege
Oro Trend Fashion sketches, quotes, and colours are courtesy of Pantone Fashion Color Report Fall 2013.
26
C O L O U R
T R E N D S
Colours Moving into Fall 2013 Pamela Huizenga
Sharart Utopia
Carelle
Utopia
Kavant
Leaderline
Vianna
Vianna Daniel Espinosa
J Jewels Milano
Lela Rose using Pantone Koi. A decorative orange with dazzling and shimmering qualities, Koi is a statement color that serves as a pick-me-up for your wardrobe.
Robert Wan
Katie Decker
Pamella Roland by Pamella DeVos using Pantone Deep Lichen Green, a naturally lush shade of green.
Fashion sketches and colours are courtesy of Pantone Fashion Color Report Fall 2013.
28
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EXCLUSI VECOLLECTI ONSOFFI NE RUBI ES,EMERALDSSAPPHI RES& RUSTI C DI AMOND J EWELRY
www. bavna. com
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C O L O U R
T R E N D S
Colours Moving into Fall 2013 Oly Lynggaard Bibigi
KC Designs
Jorge Revilla
Todd Reed MCL
Isabelle Langlois
Delance
Adami & Martucci
Suzanne Kalan
Revabella Thistle & Bee
Trina Turk using Pantone Acai, an exotic colour that adds mystery and richness to the palette, and can be incorporated with the other colours to create a number of powerful Fall combinations.
Bohemme
Tia Cibani using Pantone Turbulence, a dark mercurial gray, with a touch of Carafe, a rich, glamorous brown. These neutrals provide more interesting and sophisticated alternatives to the black basics usually worn in colder months.
Fashion sketches and colours are courtesy of Pantone Fashion Color Report Fall 2013.
30
I N TE R V I E W
BERGIO IN THE SPOTLIGHT One of the more outspoken players in the jewellery industry is Berge Abajian, CEO of New Jersey-based brand, Bergio. On the go constantly, with a variety of projects both in the USA and in Europe, Abajian paused for a few minutes at BaselWorld to talk to CIJ Trends & Colours about his unusual strategies for the brand. Interview conducted by Cynthia Unninayar CIJTC: You took the unusual step of taking your company public several years ago. Why? Berge Abajian: We considered this carefully for several years before making it part of our brand strategy. By going public, we were able to raise the funds necessary to increase brand awareness and go to the next level in terms of design, production, and distribution. We are unique in always exploring new avenues. CIJTC: In concrete terms, what has going public allowed Bergio to do? BA: Being public has forced us to expand into different avenues to satisfy our shareholder base. We have increased brand awareness and expanded into Europe, where our largest market is Russia. Bergio is well received as an upscale brand in Europe with a range of high-end jewellery. The Europeans also appreciate the ‘Made in USA’ aspect of our products. Berge Abajian
CIJTC: What types of products are you specifically talking about? BA: We have created more designs in our fashion lines, in various colours of 18K gold, diamonds, and coloured gemstones. Our bridal line features contemporary-style engagement rings, bridal sets, and eternity bands in 18K gold or platinum, set with diamonds or sapphires. For the past five years, we have focused on gold in our fashion lines as we have felt that gold would replace diamonds as a status symbol. CIJTC: You mentioned changes in distribution. What do you mean in specific terms? BA: There are two changes. In today’s economic climate, many independent stores are selling mainly unbranded jewellery, produced overseas, under their own name. This is a way for them to survive, since, sadly, they don’t have the resources to support a brand. But, I feel that brands are going to be more important in the future, so we are now only working with select partners that sell and promote the Bergio brand. This is beneficial for them and for us. Our advantage, too, is that we spend on product design and development, which many so-called ‘designer brands’ don’t do. They merely buy ‘off the shelf’ from overseas and put their name on the pieces. Bergio is a real brand, with our own products and direction. CIJTC: And the second change in distribution? BA: This is our latest news. We formed a mega partnership with ShopNBC to sell Bergio products, which launches on May 6. We decided to do this because we can reach a much larger audience. Basically, ShopNBC is taking our designs and selling them under the Bergio Brilliante label, which they are making in silver and bronze. If a person likes a Bergio design but cannot afford a $10,000 piece of jewellery, she can get something similar at a much lower price point, for example. in silver. CIJTC: Won’t this eventually hurt your brand image? BA: No, I don’t believe so. In fact, we were approached many years ago to sell on TV, but declined the offer. Yet, after seeing a number of major brands not only succeed, but thrive after selling on TV and increase their brand awareness, we decided to take the plunge. On ShopNBC, we are addressing a different market. We also feel that this additional exposure will increase our brand awareness. CIJTC: When so many brands are going to cheaper labour markets overseas, why do you insist on making Bergio in the USA? BA: Bergio is an American brand. We believe in supporting American workers. And importantly, another benefit of making our jewellery in the USA is that we can quickly repair or replace any item as necessary, since the workshops are in New Jersey. Plus, we have control over our designs and copyrights. When you manufacture jewellery overseas, you lose that control. CIJTC: Bergio has already expanded into high-end belts. Are there any other brand extensions on the horizon? BA: After our successful belt line, we are now expanding into fine Italian silk scarves. We have formed a partnership with a manufacturer in Cuomo, which has the best resources to create these high quality scarves. This is our only exception to the ‘Made in USA’ philosophy. CIJTC: I understand that you are in Basel to receive the ‘Man of the Year’ award from the Armenian Jewelers Association? BA: Yes, I was surprised to receive this award, and I am honoured to serve my community. The Armenian Jewelers Association is one of the most important organizations in the industry. It represents more than 30,000 members worldwide, many of which are major brands. 31
P R O F I L E
JYE’S INTERNATIONAL: QUALITY UNCOMPROMISED From its early beginnings some thirty years ago, in 1982, as a purveyor of premium pearls to today’s fabulous collections of luxury jewels, the Jye’s brand epitomizes quality, superior craftsmanship, innovation, and timeless beauty. By Diana S. Zimmerman
F
ast forward, some ten years later, in the early 1990s, founder Jennifer Chang realized that the technological advances in the cultivation of pearls would likely lead to an oversupply. With that in mind, she shifted her company’s focus to designing and crafting luxury jewels. The result is a distinctive line that balances couture fashion with timeless appeal. “We are very particular in our quest for quality,” Jennifer explains. “When we traded pearls, we dealt with premium goods, and began cultivating them to ensure the best quality. Similarly, when we started crafting jewels, we ventured into offshore production to give us a larger pool of skilled high-end goldsmiths.” “Our collections use very fine GVS quality, premium-cut diamonds, and precious gems to ensure the colourful beauty of brilliant artwork,” continues Charles Ueng,
laboration resulted in the “Susie Collection,” which features a patented design of share prong earrings and premium G color and VS clarity diamonds. Unlike the traditional hoop earring where only metal can be seen from the front angle, the share prong setting shows off a unique twist in the shape, allowing a perfect view of all of the diamonds. The piece shown below is in platinum with a total diamond weight of 1.7 carats. Responding to customer needs is another of Jye’s priorities, and creating custom jewels plays an important role in being able to do this. “We share a mission with our retail partners,” she says, “and that is to create a high-degree of customer value and responsiveness. We work very hard to ensure that our retailers are able to provide theircustomers with the ideal piece of jewellery. They deserve a luxurious piece that is as individual as they are, and crafted from the Jennifer’s husband, who oversees production. “And, we only use 18K gold or 950 platinum. Our clients deserve beautiful works of art that are crafted from the very best materials—and that is what we provide.” Diamonds make up about half of Jye’s collections, with bridal an important part of the mix. Coloured stones, including rubies, emeralds, and sapphires, make up the rest, and are normally set with diamond mountings to accent the beauty of the stones. With a team of four designers, led primarily by Jennifer, and six senior goldsmiths, each piece is the result of collective teamwork. “We routinely exchange ideas and inspirations,” she says. “And we always aspire to design around the centre stone in order to enhance its merits and provide our customers with spectacular pieces.” One example of this close col-
32
very finest quality gems.” Jennifer admits, however, that with the skyrocketing prices of gems and precious metals, along with increased labour costs, maintaining such high quality at a reasonable price is a constant challenge. Yet, because of the brand’s ability to continue to do this, she feels that their retail partners benefit since they are able to sell high-quality pieces at very competitive price points. The company is also putting more emphasis on brand recognition. “Jye’s already has an established and highly respected name at the wholesale level,” she adds. “We are now focused on increasing our brand awareness with the end-user by strengthening and expanding our co-op campaigns, as well as expanding our advertising initiatives.” A new website and new web-based tools to make purchasing easier and more convenient for retail partners are also in the works.
to our staff members, who bring in fresh new ideas. Our future management, however, is open to any new talent, whether external or internal.” Ethical sourcing of materials is another area Jennifer is passionate about. She be believes that it is good for the jewellery industry overall, and that it will help stabilize the mar market in the long term. “And, it strengthens the consumer’s faith in our industry, which is so very important,” she muses. Jye’s list of awards is also quite impressive. The brand has been a winner for five consecutive years of the JCK Jewelers’ Choice Awards, among other recognitions. For Jennifer Chang and Charles Ueng, and each of the other individuals who make the Jye’s International brand so very spe special, it has—and always will be—about quality uncompromised, in all aspects of the brand. (www.jyescorp.com) Digital images and multi-media materials will be more plentiful and easier to access and download. “We’ve always supported our retailers’ marketing campaigns, as well as their VIP and charity events, and that support will continue to grow,” she adds. “Jye’s believes strongly in giving back to the community, but we let our retail partners take the lead and the credit.” Although the company is family-owned, Jennifer has brought in senior level executives from outside to help manage it. “All of our offshore branches are run by non-family executives, and that speaks a lot about our business philosophy,” she says. As with everything Jye’s does, having the highest quality management team is essential. “We treasure family bonds and legacy. As a result, we’ve recruited significant numbers of second-generation individuals related 33
T R E N D S
&
C O L O U R S Tresor
Tresor
Rebecca
Marco Bicego
Vianna Brasil
Yael Sonia
Zorab 6
Damiani
Bizzotto
Temple St. Clair
Outfit by Betsey Johnson (photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week NYC) 34
Roberto Coin
MIXING IT UP
MVee
Complementary or contrasting colours in both jewellery and fashion come together to
Caroline C Minawala
Pamela Huizenga
Mattioli Lamp by Cappellini
Tamara Comolli
Effy
Outfit by Maria Escote (photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Madrid)
Goshwara
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T R E N D S
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2 The proverbial girl’s best friend lends itself to many designs, from simple and stylish to sophisticated and sumptuous, from the classic round cuts to a wealth of fabulous forms. Whatever the shape, diamonds are so very beautiful when they GLVSOD\ WKHLU ¿UH DQG LFH
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1. Earrings in gold with diverse cuts of diamonds by Zydo (Italy). 2. Diamond and gold earrings by Bapalal Keshavlal (India). 3. Diamond and gold necklace by Gumuchian (USA). 4. Diamond and gold earrings by Messika (France). 5. Diamond, silver, and ceramic “Shining Star” ring by Reena Ahluwalia for Royal Asscher (Canada/The Netherlands). 6. Diamond and gold ring by Ponte Vecchio (Italy). 7. Diamond and gold cuff by Graff (Britain). 8. Rose-cut diamond and platinum ring by John Apel (USA). 9. Diamond and gold hoop earring by Sylvie (USA). 10. Outfit by Pamella Roland (photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week New York).
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11. Diamond and gold earrings by Damiani (Italy). 12. Diamond and gold pendant by Joia (France). 13. Diverse-cut diamond and gold “Mondrian” earrings by Cris Porto (Brazil). 14. Diamond and gold brooch by Lorenz Baumer (France). 15. Diamond and gold “Snowflake” brooch by Oscar Heyman (USA). 16. Special diamond setting technique to enhance size perception, by Ititoli (Italy). 17. Diamond and gold “Manhattan” ring by Mathan Paris (France). 18. “Asscher-Cut Princess” diamond and gold rings by Quadamas (USA). 19. Diamond and gold earrings by Norman Silverman (USA). 20. Outfit by Ana Locking (photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Madrid).
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1. Gold and diamond brooch by Le Vian (USA). 2. Gold, and diamond bracelet by Roberto Coin (Italy). 3. Gold, diamond, tourmaline, and aquamarine brooch by Ruth Grieco (Brazil). 4. Gold, amber, and tsavorite pendant by NAC Amber (Poland). 5. Gemstone, pearl, and gold brooch by Paula Crevoshay (USA). 6. Enamel, gold, diamond, and gemstone pendant by Creart II (Italy). 7. Gold, tourmaline, and opal brooch by Golconda (USA). 8. Gold, diamond, and enamel ring by Staurino Fratelli (Italy). 9. Gold, paraiba tourmaline, and diamond ring by Cris Porto (Brazil). 10. Gemstone and gold earring by Isabelle Langlois (France). 11. Moonstone, gold, and tsavorite brooch by Lydia Courteille (France). 12. Silver and amber hanging bee sculpture by Ambalt (Poland). 13. Gold and diamond cuff by Peter Lam (Hong Kong).
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A BUG’S LIFE And what a life it is! From bees to EXWWHUÀLHV IURP EHHWOHV WR ODG\ EXJV IURP D IXOO\ DUWLFXODWHG SUD\LQJ PDQWLV WR D GUDJRQÀ\ LQ ÀLJKW SOXV VSLGHUV RI DOO NLQGV EHMHZHOOHG EXJV DUH DV IDVFLQDWLQJ DV WKH\ DUH OX[XULRXV
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14. Ruby, gold, and diamond pendant by Pippo Perez (Italy). 15. Gold, ruby, and diamond pendant by Vida (Hong Kong). 16. Amber and gold pendant by Ambermix (Poland). 17. Gemstone and diamond brooch by Jafarov (Germany). 18. Gold, diamond, and ammonite brooch by Mark Schneider (USA). 19. Enamel, zircon, and gold-plated silver ring by Misis (Italy). 20. Amethyst, ruby, diamond, and gold brooch by Forever Jewels (Singapore). 21. Gold and enamel brooch by Commelin (France). 22. Fully articulated gold, gemstone, and diamond brooch by Jizai/Kodama (Japan).
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T R E N D S
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Heather Moore
SOMETHING OLD, SOMETHING NEW. . .
Michael M
These words also pretty much sum up today’s trends in wedding rings. Some brides appreciate the vintage look. Others are drawn to new and modern styling. Solitaires are most demanded, but emerald and other cuts bring a different elegance. Rings shown here are in gold or platinum with diamonds or sapphires.
Ivanka Trump Maevona
OGI
Toby Pomeroy Claude Thibaudeau Simon G
House of Baguettes
Frederick Goldman Dress by Sarli Couture (photo: AS)
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Beverley K
SOMETHING BORROWED, SOMETHING BLUE. . .
Sylvie
Designs borrowed from the past, namely revisited halo settings, appeal to today’s brides, while rings set with coloured stones are fast becoming mainstream, notably pink and yellow diamonds and blue and pink sapphires. Yet, some rings even incorporate other colours, including brown and black diamonds.
Green G Jack Kelege
Jye’s International
Bergio
AcP by Quadamas Uneek
Kirk Kara
Dress by Renato Balestra (photo: AS) 41
TR E N D S 1
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AMAZING AMBER
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With its warm organic colours and mythic origins, amber’s popularity continues to grow. Used in its natural state, facetted, or polished, in gold or silver, this living gem lends itself to a wide variety of creative and colourful jewellery and objets d’art. 3
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1. Amber and silver pendant by S & A Jewellery Design. 2. Amber and silver necklace by Studio DF. 3. Amber and gold pendant by Zimmermann Design. 4. Amber and gold earrings by Ambermix. 5. Amber, gold, and silver ring by Art 7. 6. Silver, gold, and amber pendant by Malgorzata Wasowska. 7. Amber and silver ring by Aleksander Gliwinski. 8. Silver and amber ring by Jaceek Ostrowski. 9. Silver and amber pendant by Eva Stone. 10. Outfit by Irina Schrotter (photo: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Berlin).
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11. Amber and silver pendant by Amber Planet. 12. Amber and silver earrings by Ambermoda. 13. Amber and silver pendant by Danka Czapnik. 14. Amber and gold pendant by NAC Amber. 15. Gold and amber pendant by Il Perseo. 16. Amber and silver cuff by Marcin Zaremski. 17. Silver and amber sculpture by Ambalt. 18. Amber and silver pendant by Bogdan Frydrychowicz. 19. Silver and amber ring by Enzo. 20. Outfit by Raden Sirait (photo: Jakarta Fashion Festival).
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R E TA I L E R
F O C U S
THE EXQUISITE WORLD OF NAR WONG As a young girl growing up in China, Nar Wong could not have dreamed that one day she would become a much sought after designer of exquisite jewels. Today, her stunning one-of-a-kind pieces are sold through her store, Tivoli Jewels, in San Gabriel, California and collected by clients around the globe. By Diana S. Zimmerman
N
ar Wong spent her early career working as an electrical engineer in China, but destiny was about to play its hand. In the 1970s, she moved to California to join other family members, and settled in the Chinese community of Monterey Park, east of Los Angeles. At that time, Wong had no idea that a casual get-together with a few friends would change her life forever. “I was visiting some friends,” she explains, “when I learned that one of them had opened a jewellery store in Chinatown, and that another had opened a jewellery booth in Downtown LA. They suggested that I go into this type of business as well.” While the idea was certainly appealing, she had absolutely no training or knowledge of the industry. With a bit more encouragement, however, Wong eventually decided to follow her heart, and in 1979 started her own company. When she first decided to go into the jewellery business, she faced many obstacles, including a lack of knowledge of the industry as well as a lack of experience in selling her pieces. Yet, undaunted and determined to succeed, she hired an experienced salesperson, who helped her learn sales skills as well as a basic knowledge of jewellery. “I also studied a great deal about gemstones and learned from other established jewellers about the jewellery trade.” Eventually, Wong developed a rather unconventional way of creating strong relationships with her clients. “I would meet them in the comfort of their home, and was able to get to know each one on a personal level. This allowed me to
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Pink, yellow, and white diamond and gold earrings and necklace.
see their world and the things that hold a special place in their hearts,” she says. It also allowed the jeweller to gain a better understanding of her customers’ tastes, preferences, and needs. “It soon became clear to me that I needed to focus on creating stunning individualized jewels for my clients. So I immersed myself into learning and understanding the process of high-end customization.” With the notion that the “customer comes first” as her guiding principle, Wong grew the business by earning the trust and loyalty of her ever-expanding client list, one person at a time. “The most important trait a jeweller can have,” she insists, “is the ability to really put people first.”
The guiding principle at Tivoli Jewels is based on the notion that the ³FXVWRPHU FRPHV ¿UVW ´
Front view of pink and white diamond and gold necklace.
Yellow and white diamond, sphene, and gold pendant.
Over the years, Nar Wong has developed many close and meaningful relationships with her clients, and enjoys nothing more than searching the world for exquisite gems, then designing the perfect one-of-a-kind piece for them. “It is often like a treasure hunt,” she muses, “travelling the globe to find that special or extraordinary diamond or gemstone.” And travel she does, sometimes to very remote areas. “One of my more memorable trips took place in the late 1980s,” she recalls. “I was travelling with my daughter and my cousin to Yunnan, China in search of rubies and jadeites. From Kunming, which is the capital city of Yunnan, we took a local flight into Dehong Manshi airport, and then rode for two hours into Ruili, a border city between China and Burma. During those years, Burmese dealers often brought their jade to Ruili to sell. After seeing the goods, we were ready to fly back to Kunming, but learned that a bird had hit the plane’s propeller, and it would be a week before we could get another flight out.” The only other transportation was a 30-hour bus ride, in the pouring rain, across a narrow winding mountain road. “It was like a 30-hour rollercoaster ride,” she says, “and the antiquated bus was so overcrowded that many passengers had to stand the entire way.”
Back view of the elegant pink and white diamond necklace with diamonds cascading sensually down the wearer’s back.
After a very difficult and uncomfortable trip, they finally made it back to Kunming. “We then headed to Hekou— a border city between China and Vietnam—in search of rubies. At that time, trade between Chinese and Vietnamese vendors was conducted along a halfmile long dirt road. When we returned, we had the stones tested and discovered that that some of them were, in fact, red glass!” It was an expensive lesson for Wong and her daughter—a lesson they have never forgotten. “Through my travels,” Wong goes on to say, “I’ve had the opportunity to see and to experience many different cultures. I’m inspired by the diverse expression in the art of their jewellery.”
Her love of nature and vibrant colours also influences the design of her unique and remarkable pieces. And, in 2007, Wong expanded Tivoli Jewels to launch annual collections, showcasing an even greater number of spectacular, trend trendsetting, and original works. Nar Wong’s three children have joined her in the business. “My son, Michael, is very social, and oversees the sales and marketing aspects of the company. My daughter, Rosemary, is talented in interior decorating and does a wonderful job displaying the jewels, and making sure our environment is inviting to our clients. My daughter, Lisa, is quite creative and is involved with the designs. She also oversees the entire customization process, and travels the world with me to source the gems.” It is this teamwork that Wong feels has contributed to the incredible success of her company, which, to this day, still specializes in one-of-a-kind pieces, pieces that are as unique and exquisite as the world Nar Wong has created. (www.tivolijewels.com) 45
BUYER’S GUIDE
Stacking Bangles with Gemstones by THISTLE & BEE Thistle & Bee epitomizes classical elegance – creating sleek, carefully crafted and elegantly styled designs in sterling silver. The extensive Thistle & Bee Collection includes bold statement pieces as well as clean simple styles – providing versatility of fine design and an extensive range of choice. Shows: JCK Las Vegas, JA New York
THISTLE & BEE Designer’s file www.cijintl.com/Advertiser-Thistle_and_Bee.html
Opal & Green Tsavorite Pendant by LIKA BEHAR Lika Behar creates historically inspired unique works of wearable art using ancient techniques. Seafaring Mediterranean civilizations are her inspiration for the “Ocean” collection, which achieves this play on colour with a colourful boulder opal hand set in 24K gold with a brilliant green tsavorite.
LIKA BEHAR Designer’s file www.cijintl.com/Advertiser-Lika_Behar.html
Shows: Centurion, JCK Las Vegas, JA New York, Select by Centurion Nashville & Connecticut
Multi-colour Bracelet by PAMELA HUIZENGA Pamela Huizenga, talented jewellery designer and gem-cutter, uses her fascination with the wide range of colours, textures, and natural imperfections found in gemstones to create her one-of-a-kind pieces. Her unique pieces are crafted in both 18K gold and silver. Her bold and unusual style captures the imagination of those seeking unusual and creative high-end jewellery designs. Show: Couture
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PAMELA HUIZENGA Designer’s file www.cijintl.com/Advertiser-Pamela_Huizenga.html
BUYER’S GUIDE
Pink AcP Sapphire Halo Solitaire by QUADAMAS Presenting the “Asscher Cut Princess” (the “AcP”), an ingenious combination of an Asscher Cut’s clarity and a Princess Cut’s brilliance. Available in Fine Diamonds and Ceylon Sapphires, loose or mounted. Protected by six U.S. Patents. QUADAMAS Designer’s file www.cijintl.com/Advertiser-Quadamas.html
Gávea Collection by VIANNA BRASIL The Gávea Collection was inspired by the famous paragliding trips in Rio de Janeiro and the sensations of flying over the Wonderful City, as it is known internationally. The shapes and positions of the gemstones remind us of the silhouette of the paraglide, evoking the unparalleled feelings and the sights as the beach meets the alluring city of Rio de Janeiro. VIANNA Designer’s file www.cijintl.com/Advertiser-Vianna Brasil.html
Shows: Vicenzaoro, About J, BaselWorld, JCK Las Vegas, Centurion Scottsdale, Centurion South Beach, Feninjer, St Petersburg, Moscow
Celebrating 15 years in design, Yael Sonia’s creations are timeless yet unique, translating the simple joys of childhood into sophisticated kinetic fine jewellery. All her fine jewellery is handmade in 18K gold, pearls, and gemstones in her studio in Sao Paulo, Brazil. In addition to her studio/showroom, Yael Sonia jewellery can be purchased in New York City, Rio de Janeiro, Paris, and Hong Kong. Show: Couture
YAEL SONIA Designer’s file www.cijintl.com/Advertiser-Yael_Sonia.html
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E T H I C A L
B U S I N E S S
P R A CTI C E S
BUILDING CONFIDENCE: WHY IT MATTERS In today’s market, jewellers, like many other business owners, are looking to find a competitive advantage that speaks to their clients above and beyond great designs, creative marketing, and the top-notch customer service they are already providing. Knowing that consumers want to feel good about their purchases, many industry professionals are finding ways to build confidence through increased focus on ethical business practices, including emphasis on transparency and full disclosure of products, sourcing, and manufacturing processes. By Barbara Wheat
Barbara Wheat is Founding President of the Jewelers Ethics Association.
A
mong the organizations dedicated to promoting and supporting ethical business practices within the jewellery and gemstone industry is the Jewelers Ethics Association (JEA), founded in 2009 by Lisa Brooks-Pike. A non-profit trade organization, with members from around the world (manufacturers, dealers, retailers, industry media, laboratories, and other interested parties, including consumers), the JEA encourages its membership to build confidence with clients all along the supply chain. This includes access to information on gemstones, precious metals, and jewellery care. Upholding ethical standards within the trade includes the full disclosure of the myriad treatments and enhancements present in today’s marketplace. Industry professionals who offer this information are providing their clients with more than just a stunning jewel; they are building confidence and developing long-term trust.
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Current JEA membership is mainly comprised of industry members who meet regularly to discuss gemstone treatments and disclosure issues, in light of the everchanging nature of treatments. In order to keep pace with industry demand, JEA conducts seminars featuring experts addressing pressing topics at trade shows, and it also participates with organizations such as the National Association of Jewelry Appraisers (NAJA) at its annual ACE©IT Conference. In 2012, JEA responded to a request from the United States Federal Trade Commission (FTC), which opened a public comment period to get feedback from industry organizations in revising the FTC Jewelry Guides. JEA submitted a report of recommendations addressing gemstone treatments and disclosure as well as comments regarding disclosure of metal content in jewellery.
Lisa Brooks-Pike, founder of the Jewelers Ethics Association, speaking at a NAJA conference.
In June, JEA will send four board members to meetings with the FTC in Washington D.C. to to further address these issues ahead of the publication of the revised FTC Jewelry Guides. Once finalized, these guidelines will be available on the JEA website, along with other information that is available to members and non-members alike. The JEA Board of Directors is composed of industry leaders from all aspects of the gem and jewellery trade, including related professional media. To learn more about the advantages of becoming a JEA member, please visit www.jewelersethicsassociation.com.
International
Pearl Design COMPETITION FOURTH EDITION: 2013-2014
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For complete contest details visit www.cpaa.org.
S P OT L I G H T
GAINERIE 91 EXPERTISE & KNOW-HOW APPLIED TO LUXURY PACKAGING From 30th May to 3rd June 2013, GAINERIE 91 will present its complete range of products at the Couture show in Las Vegas (Booth 711). This range comprises products designed specifically for jewellery and watches: cases, display stands, pouches, trays, folder cases, presentation cases, POP displays, ribbons, shopping bags and gift bags. Trocadéro (Above) & Alma (Below)
Bagatelle
The latest creations at Couture - Three new cases (“Etoile”, “Trocadéro” and “Bastille”) available in leather or Alcantara. GAINERIE 91 has founded its reputation on the exactness of its technicians in crafting their products, and on flawless quality control. With over 45 years’ experience in the manufacture of cases, all G91 products are hand-made.
- New trays with removable, modifiable inserts as appropriate (“Alma” range) - Two new busts, stands and accessories in leather or satin for the “Joséphine” product line, and in acrylic for the “Bagatelle” line. Joséphine Montaigne
The brand’s designers can also create tailormade products at the customer’s request, thereby catering to personalised shapes, colours or materials. For many years, the quality inherent in G91 products has been recognised by the world’s leading creators of jewellery and watches: Boucheron, Bvlgari, Cartier, Chopard, Chanel, Harry Winston, Hermès, Van Cleef & Arpels, as well as by private jet manufacturers such as EADS or Bombardier, and luxury wines and spirits producers such as LVMH. G91 has the means to deliver its products in small and large quantities to cater to the development needs of all its customers. 50
- New POP displays and stands in solid wood (natural oak, dark oak or lacquered wood) with inserts that can be covered in different materials (“Bois de Boulogne” range) - Wooden cases for the “Montaigne” product line, with a wide choice of lacquer colours and precious veneers. These new products will benefit from a new environment, a new stand and a new catalogue in line with the GAINERIE 91 brand’s revamped visual identity. To better serve its customers, in particular watchmakers, GAINERIE 91 has opened a branch in Switzerland at La Neuveville: PackinG91 (www.packinG91.ch)
COUTURE LAS VEGAS USA BOOTH 711 30th May- 3rd June 2013
USA New-York GAINERIE 91 + 33 1212 915 95 98 www.gainerie91.com jlr@gainerie91.com
FRANCE Paris
FRANCE Poligny
GAINERIE 91 + 33 1 69 05 21 55 www.gainerie91.com info@gainerie.com
Sejac + 33 84 37 11 78 www.sejac.fr info@sejac.fr
SUISSE La Neuveville + 41 52 751 22 55 www.packing91.ch lebet@packing91.ch
M A R K E T P L A C E
VICENZAORO WINTER 2013: POSITIVE SIGNS FOR ITALIAN BRANDS Kicking off 2013’s jewellery trade calendar under the theme “The Future. Now,” Vicenzaoro Winter provided a note of cautious optimism for the recovery of the global jewellery market. This optimism continued in the recent Spring edition held in May. By Cynthia Unninayar and Russia as well as Asia, the Middle East and Turkey, is enormously satisfying. The increase in the numbers of people coming from the Balkans and Greece is also interesting.” A great deal of this success can be attributed to the fact that the Vicenza Fair is more than a trade fair, but an entity that works very hard on the main markets to promote brand awareness of Vicenzaoro, in particular, and Italian jewellery in general. As Ditri added, “It is our contribution towards boosting the importance of Italian production and industry in the territory.”
T
he largest of the three editions, Vicenzaoro Winter is particularly important as many brands introduce new collections, thus helping to set the global trends for the year, while the economic results tend to set the mood for the coming months. At the close of both the winter and the spring shows, the tone was upbeat and cautiously optimistic. While Italian exhibitors made up the majority of the 1,500 companies present, others came from 31 other nations, further evidence that Vicenzaoro is indeed an international meeting place. This “globality” was also seen in the number of foreign visitors who travelled to the show. Of the 29,000 people who visited both Vicenzaoro and T-Gold (section for machinery and technology), 7,600 were buyers from overseas, who made trips from 120 countries. “The influx of visitors is a positive sign for the jewellery world, especially for Italian-made products. If the abundance of Italian traders is a good sign, then the presence of foreigners, particularly in terms of the quality and determination of
Playful ways to use silver and enamel were evoked in earrings by Misis.
the buyers, is extremely significant,” commented Roberto Ditri, President of Fiera di Vicenza. “At the moment, the economy of the jewellery industry is being dragged along by the foreign markets, especially non-European ones, and for this reason, the fact that we saw retailers from Canada, the United States, Central America,
Promoting the Industry The Fiera de Vicenza is continuing its strategies to not only improve the fair, but also to promote Italian design worldwide. This is seen in various initiatives undertaken in markets such as Hong Kong, Dubai, India, and Las Vegas, as well as other special events aimed at giving Vicenzaoro a more international presence. “2013 is a year of transition for the fair. Several new major projects are being developed this year, which will culminate in 2014 with the launch of Fiera
Multi-coloured gemstone, bead, and silver cuff by Ziio.
Colour and stylish open designs were a major trends at Vicenza. Shown here: rhodolite, amethyst, diamond, and gold earrings by Casato Roma. 52
“Venetian Rose Window” earrings in gold, diamonds, and gemstones by Bizzotto.
at vicenzaoro.com and the Vicenzaoro TV Channel. The former goes beyond the dimensional and temporal restrictions of the trade fair, and serves as a permanent showcase that can interact with the global jewellery sector on a continual basis. The new TV channel was broadcast throughout Europe during the six-day fair over the Sky, Tivusat, and Eutelsat satellite platforms. It offered exhibitors and other players in the sector international visibility with a potential audience of hundreds of millions of spectators.
Geometric lines create a lacy pattern in gold and diamonds by Luca Carati.
di Vicenza’s ‘Boutique Show,’” explained Ditri. “It will extend its direct presence into all the world’s strategic markets.” Fully operational beginning with the Vicenzaoro Winter 2014 event, the Boutique Show will have a new infrastructure, new services, and new exhibition models specifically designed to enhance the value of the offer and meet the needs of buyers and retailers. This entails a rearrangement of the new exhibition space based on a number of guidelines, and involves the creation of new exhibitor “communities.” Brands will be organized into similar groups based on common values, positioning, organizational systems, production type, and overall image. The entire exhibition will contain six areas: Icon, Creation and Look for jewellery; Essence for gemstones and precious components; Expression for packaging and visual merchandising; Evolution for precious metal processing technologies. Among a number of other marketing initiatives is the creation of a new portal
New Additions to Vicenzaoro Promoting Vicenzaoro worldwide also pays off in terms of attracting foreign exhibitors. Among the several new entrants this year were the Spanish brand Bohemme and the U.S. brand Le Vian. Owned by designer Antonio Espaliu Berdud, the two-year old Cordoba-based Bohemme creates very fashionable silver creations with black rhodium plating,
A newcomer to Vicenzaoro, Spanish brand Bohemme presented trendy black rhodium-plated silver jewellery adorned with coloured gems.
USA-based Le Vian, a first-time exhibitor, featured a line of chocolate diamond and gold rings.
The trendy colour of bright orange was seen in this opal, diamond, and gold necklace by Italian Design.
along with some gold pieces, set with real stones and cubic zirconia. “We do very well in Spain,” explained Berdud, “and wanted to branch out internationally, and we saw Vicenzaoro as a good vehicle.” The New York-based Le Vian decided to exhibit at Vicenzaoro because it “wants to expand into Europe, China, and India” stated Jonathan Le Vian, son of the founder. Sometimes dubbed “the chocolate company,” Le Vian specializes in chocolate diamonds as well as coloured diamonds, and has a popular line of chocolate bridal rings. In addition to the newcomers, trendsetting designs from Vicenzaoro exhibitors can be seen on these pages, indicative of the creativity and craftsmanship of Italian design. Comments from Buyers and Brands “This is my first time at Fiera di Vicenza. It is the most important event in the gold and jewellery sector and it seems to be very focused on the creative aspect of jewellery. As far as I’m concerned, Vicenzaoro is an extremely important meeting point for creating and establishing business relationships, and I am happy to have had the chance to expand my customer base due to my visit here.” – Manish Dhamani, Dhamani Jewelry, Dubai (buyer). 53
M A R K E T P L A C E
Innovative bracelets, both in form and materials, were seen at Fope, which presented a flexible bracelet made in the brand’s registered Silverfope™, a special alloy of silver and palladium that never tarnishes.
The popularity of charms continues unabated. Shown here: a gold and gemstone handbag charm by Rosato.
“The future of jewellery means giving our customers the chance to interact with those who make it. This closeness will be the true key to success in jewellery. The fact that a trade fair wants to create matching between the expectations of the evolved consumer and producers is an enormous opportunity for us.” – Hank Siegel, Hamilton Jewellers, USA (buyer). “In Vicenza, we are looking for unique and marvellous jewellery designs, produced by Italian craftsmen that we don’t see in America. Italians are great in everything they do, jewellery included. We want to select the very best for our customers, something that my competitors on the other side of the street will not find at JCK, America’s big jewellery show.” – Chris Graham, Graham Jewelers, USA, (buyer). “Vicenzaoro is a truly international Show. It covers the range of countries where we want to be more visible, from the Middle East to South America and Asia. And it allows us to strengthen contacts with our Italian, European, and American customers.” – Romy Mehta, CEO, Bapalal Keshavlal, India (Exhibitor). “We are extremely satisfied, especially having found a space in Pavilion B that is on a level with our products. This gave greater visibility to our brand and helped attract customers that we were then able to host in a truly comfortable space. I am very pleased with the results of this show which have exceeded all of our expectations.” – Ricardo Vianna, CEO Vianna Brasil, Brazil (Exhibitor). 54
Santagostino featured cameo pendants framed by the brand’s signature look of enamel, gold, and gemstones. A delicate and feminine bracelet in gold, diamonds, and enamel by Roberto Coin.
Novel mixes of materials were seen in gold, leather, and diamond bracelets by Oromalia.
“The January Vicenzaoro is becoming, as expected, increasingly more international. We have worked with buyers from Europe, Turkey, and Greece, decidedly interesting markets due to their Russian tourism advantage. But we have also had the opportunity to get to know buyers from Eastern Europe, including Azerbaijan, the Czech Republic, and Kazakhstan, markets that are always on the lookout for conspicuous and luxury collections.” – Daniele Bruni, Pasquale Bruni, Italy (Exhibitor). Also announced at the Winter and Spring editions of Vicenzaoro is the annual invitation-only event, About J. This small and exclusive show will be held in Venice, September 4 to 7, 2013, just before Vicenzaoro Fall, which will open its doors September 7 to 11. (www.vicenzafiera.it, www.aboutj.it)
MARKETPLACE
ANTWERP DIAMOND TRADE FAIR: A SPARKLING SUCCESS Now in its fourth year, the Antwerp Diamond Trade Fair has become firmly positioned on the annual calendar of the world’s most important global trade shows. By Cynthia Unninayar
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or more than 400 years, diamantaires in Antwerp conducted their business in private. That all changed in 2010 when they opened the doors of the historical trading halls of the 105-year-old Antwerp Diamond Bourse and the even older Antwerp Diamond Club to buyers at the first Antwerp Diamond Trade Fair (ADTF), who were able to come and see some of the largest selections of polished diamonds in the world. And, every year since 2010, the ADTF has grown in stature as well as in the number of exhibitors and buyers. Now in its fourth edition, the ADTF is still organized on a by-invitation-only basis. The show is sponsored by the Antwerp World Diamond Centre and has become so well recognized that fair officials lamented the fact that, for this edition, they received far more requests than they could accommodate. This year, some 500 buyers, including jewellery retailers, travelled from Asia, Europe, the Middle East, North America, and Russia to see the products of the fair’s 83 Antwerp-based exhibitors. In addition to the show itself, the fair organized a variety of networking events, including a gala dinner, a visit to a cutting factory, and several breakfast seminars. Antwerp’s Diamond Heritage From a historical point of view, Antwerp is at the origin of the global diamond trade as it is known today. The slogan “Cut in Antwerp” embodies more than 550 years of diamond heritage, which, for centuries, has been—and still is—a trademark for high quality and craftsmanship. Today, more than 50 percent of the world’s polished diamonds and 80 percent of rough diamonds are traded in the historic city, thus providing customers a wide selection of goods.
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Antwerp has a 550-year-old diamond heritage and continues today as one of the world’s leading centres for diamond trading.
Walking the Show Strolling the corridors in the two historic diamond halls provided the opportunity to see a variety of amazing stones, ranging in size from a few points to many carats, from whites to intense fancies, and from traditional cuts to unusual shapes such as fish, horses, and other forms. In terms of custom shapes, Willy Roth, president of Diamantclub van Antwerpen, presented diamonds in the form of horses, fish, and other creative cuts, as well as more traditional diamonds in a wide variety of sizes. Roth also indicated that the fair was good, and that he was happy with the results and the visitor traffic.
Willy Roth presented a variety of unusual diamond cuts, including this fish weighing over two carats.
In the fancy category, Diarough displayed a remarkable intense green of over two carats, which “attracted a lot of attention,” confided Marianne Georges, who added that the fair was quite successful for the brand.
This intense green diamond, of over two carats, was displayed by Diarough.
One of the more interesting booths at the ADTF was that of Beauty Gems, which attracted attention with its display of the company name and logo, completely made of diamonds (what else!). Designed by Liesbeth Cleen, the small stones of the logo together weighed 52.42 carats, while the larger diamonds of the company name weighed 33.41 carats. Cleen added that she was happy with the response to the display as well as with business conducted at the show. More than 50 percent of the world’s polished diamonds and 80 percent of rough are traded in Antwerp.
Beauty Gems showcased their company logo and name using more than 85 carats of diamonds.
Also expressing satisfaction with the fair was Mayank Mehta, of Blooming Star, which deals in white stones of 50 points to 3 carats, polished in Surat. Another dealer carrying stones of similar sizes was DTC sightholder, A.C. Diam, a third-time exhibitor. Dhaval Jain explained that most of their cuts are “nice fashion cushions and hearts,” mostly in sizes above 2 carats. “Diamonds have a good future,” Jain added, “and this well-organized fair is a good opportunity to promote diamonds.” Rosy Blue, selling 1 point to 10 carats, was also a third-year participant. Raj Mehta, senior vice president, said they enjoyed a good response. “The ADTF has been improving every year, and offers a great opportunity for Antwerp diamond companies to show what they make. It is really international since we saw delegations from Russia, China, and the Middle East, among others.” When asked if synthetic diamonds were a threat to the industry, Mehta explained, “We are not worried about synthetics. They will find their own
niche. The main concern is disclosure. For most people, natural diamonds are what really count and what they want.” Another third-year exhibitor, Dalumi featured stones from 10 points to 20 carats. Expressing the brand’s success at the fair, Amir Assael commented, “The ADTF is the best opportunity for us when compared to other fairs, which are a mix of jewellery and fashion. Buyers come here knowing what they want. It is also convenient because buyers can go from the fair to our office which is just near the fair.” As to the future of the industry, Assael felt that it follows the general mood of the world, but he stressed that “as long as we have luxury—which will continue— then there will be a demand for diamonds.”
Assael went on to talk about Dalumi’s expansion into jewellery and the brand’s new and successful “Swana” project. He indicated that, through this project, money is given to help a small village in Botswana. “At Dalumi, corporate social responsibility is an important part of our policies and we take it very seriously,” he insisted. Coming to the fair since the beginning, 80-year-old Nasielski & Son, a family business now run by the sixth generation, sells a wide variety of diamonds, from small to large stones, mostly round, but they also produce some square and princess cuts. “I think that the ADTF is an excellent idea and also very necessary for us,” said Michel Nasielski. “Despite the challenges facing the industry, diamond demand continues to be worldwide, so the future of the industry is assured.”
One of the larger diamonds seen in Antwerp, as it might look in a ring on the hand.
The fourth ADTF attracted more than 500 buyers, who came to see the diamonds presented by 83 Antwerp-based exhibitors. 57
MARKETPLACE “There are many challenges facing the industry,” commented Serge Zaidman, of S. Muller & Sons. “In 40 years, I have never seen the industry like this. I don’t know what tomorrow will bring, but I do know that there will always be a demand for diamonds, so we need to remain optimistic.” The company only sells sizes of 1 carat and above. “We cannot afford to do less,” mused Zaidman. Sarah Dhersin, from fourth-time exhibitor, Windiam, said, “It is no secret that the diamond sector is passing a difficult year, challenged by the economic and other global news. People are now reluctant to spend, although some are starting to invest in diamonds.” She added that more and more loose diamond dealers are starting jewellery lines to expand their operations.” Dhersin indicated, however, that “the show was positive for Windiam.” Present also for the fourth time was Diamex, selling white stones from 20 points to 10 carats. Serge Beller stated that he was “very happy with the show” and noted that most buyers were from Russia, China, the Middle East, and the USA.
Peter De Deyne, Factory Manager, AMC Manufacturing Antwerp, conducted an informative tour of the cutting facility for visitors to the ADTF.
While human expertise and skill is still essential, diamonds today are largely analyzed and cut by computers. Producing jewellery has been come an extension for some diamond companies, both large and small. Shown here is a necklace created by Antwerp exhibitor J. Pinchasi.
Diamonds from 1 point to many carats, in all colours, shapes and sizes, were available at the Antwerp Diamond Trade Fair.
Anecdotally, a number of retailers and other buyers from the USA and Europe indicated that the fair offered them new contacts and sources, and importantly, competitive prices. They also appreciated the historic city of Antwerp and being able to discover the charms of its cultural and architectural heritage.
In addition to searching for diamonds, visitors were offered the opportunity to visit a diamond-cutting factory near the ADTF. Here, we were shown a variety of techniques, using sophisticated instrumentation, to determine the best cut for a stone. Peter De Deyne, Factory Manager for AMC Manufacturing Antwerp, kindly showed
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visitors not only the equipment used to analyze the diamonds, but also talked about the men and women who must ultimately use their experience and expertise in making the final decisions on how the diamond will eventually be facetted. The 2014 edition of the Antwerp Diamond Trade Fair will also be held at the end of January. For more details and exact dates, to be announced, visit their website at www.antwerpdiamondfair.com.
Sponsored by the Antwerp World Diamond Centre
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Exhibitors : 85 Antwerp diamond companies.
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Visitors : jeweller retailers, designers, manufacturers. By invitation only.
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www.antwerpdiamondfair.com
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M A R K E T P L A C E
AMBERIF 2013: 20 YEARS OF AMAZING AMBER The world’s largest and most important trade fair devoted to amber celebrated its 20th anniversary in March, and, interestingly, the film Jurassic Park, which stimulated renewed interest in this living gem two decades ago, also feted its 20th year. By Cynthia Unninayar
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his year’s Amberif show, held in March 2013, was the backdrop for a wide range of creativity and designs showcased by more than 450 exhibitors. Held for the first time in the new and very modern Amber Expo, the fair’s exhibitors came largely from Poland, although 14 other nations were also represented. Since most of the world’s amber comes from the Baltic region, the beautiful and hospitable city of Gdansk provided the perfect venue to display creations made from this 40-million-year-old gem. “The first Amberif had 49 exhibitors. Today, the number has increased to around 450,” said Amberif Project Director Ewa Rachon. “This year, nearly 6500 trade buyers visited Amberif, from 54 nations.” Post-fair surveys indicate that exhibitors and visitors were very pleased with the results, especially in light of the snowstorms that had brought Europe to a standstill the day before the opening. One of the visitors, who braved the snow and ice, was Gina Giadrosich, of Texas-based Amber Way Jewelry. “I started in the amber business some 20 years ago and discovered the second edition of Amberif. Since then, I have come yearly to Gdansk for the fair, missing only one in two decades. Amberif is a great place to meet my longstanding clients, and to look for new materials and make new contacts. We sell a wide range of jewellery, priced from around $30 for simple silver and amber pieces to around $1500 for high-end designer pieces in gold. Of the more than 3000 designs we carry, the most popular are tri-colour pieces in sterling set with green, honey, and lemon amber.” Parallel to the fair were a scientificoriented amber symposium, the Amber Design Awards, Trend Book 2013+, and
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a spectacular Amber and Fashion Gala, combining impressive fashion with creative amber jewellery. And, to ensure buyers’ confidence, the fair again sponsored a special laboratory to test amber for its authenticity, free of charge, under the guidance of Dr. Ewa Wagner-Wysiecka, of Gdansk University of Technology.
An amber bracelet, made with gold and diamonds by NAC Amber.
Nuggets of natural amber, showing different textures, colours, shapes, and sizes (photo: IAA).
Types of Amber Many types of amber could be seen at the fair, from the natural gem to stones that had been modified by certain acceptable treatments. The most common acceptable treatment is a heating process to obtain transparency, or the desired cognac colour, or the glittery “scales” found when air bubbles trapped in the amber burst during heating. For clarification purposes, the International Amber Association (IAA) developed the following classification for Baltic amber (Succinite). 1. Natural Baltic Amber, which has undergone only mechanical treatment, e.g. grinding, cutting, turning, or polishing, without change to its natural properties. 2. Modified Baltic Amber, which has been subjected only to thermal or highpressure treatment, which changes its physical properties, including the degree of transparency and colour, or shaped under similar conditions out of one nugget, previously cut to the required size. 3. Reconstructed (Pressed) Baltic Amber, made of Baltic amber pieces pressed under high temperature and under high pressure without additional components. 4. Bonded Baltic Amber, consisting of two or more parts of natural, modified, or reconstructed Baltic amber bonded together with the use of the smallest possible amount of a binding agent. As in all gemstone transactions and treatments, disclosure to the client is important.
Just as in the gemstone sector, however, a minority of dealers try to pass off imitations as authentic amber, including glass, plastic, synthetic resins, and natural or modified sub-fossil resins (copal). Amber imitations are not new and have been around for hundreds of years, therefore dealing with a trusted company is important. The IAA has established a system of certification for companies, thus offering a guarantee of authenticity (www.amber.org.pl). Inclusions and Designs While inclusions are not generally appreciated in other gemstones, they are often desirable in amber, especially if the inclusions are insects. “Thanks to amber, we can peek into the past, touch it, feel it, find ourselves in a reality that existed 40 million years ago. This is the sole opportunity created by nature where we are able to observe flora and fauna of the ancient world. We become witnesses to events that took place millions of years ago. Looking inside amber, we can discover The Lost World,” mused Andrzej Wiszniewski, owner of Amber Planet, a brand specializing in amber with inclusions, often set in silver to make attractive pendants and other jewellery.
Butterfly with amber wings made of a single piece of amber by Ambermix.
Insects aside, design creativity and innovation were not lacking at Amberif. Among the brands presenting interesting innovations was Ambermix. Along with other collections, the company introduced a line of butterflies whose multi-coloured wings are made of a single piece of amber using a technique that took three years to develop. Robert Rogala, owner, explained: “Natural amber is found as a lemon colour in nature, and this is what we use to make the butterfly’s wings. The stone is heated for 24 hours at 300oC to obtain a 0.1-mm thick cognac colour on the surface. After another 4 hours of heating, the surface colour changes to cherry. After a further 6 to 8 hours, the surface colour changes to black. When the top and bottom 0.1-mm layers are filed down, the lemon colour is again revealed. The amber slices used for the wings are then carved, heated to gain the right colour, and polished in certain areas to achieve the right design.”
Many brands offered simple pieces, in a rich palette of hues, set in silver, while others displayed more complex amber creations set in gold with diamond accents. Among the latter was NAC Amber. With three basic collections, the brand’s designs range from minimalist to classical to highly sophisticated. One of its more striking pieces was a remarkable bracelet in reddish amber set in gold with diamond accents. Designed by owner, Marcin Wesolowski, it combines gold, simplicity of detail, and a subtly of form, which made it a hit with buyers. “We sold all that we brought to the show,” mused Marta Wesolowski, the designer’s wife. Ambermoda, another family enterprise, offered several collections, including one comprised of tiny squares or beads of amber attached in clusters set in silver to make interesting pieces. Other lines featured larger pieces of natural amber, designed by Mariusz Gliwinski, who works with wife, Danuta, the amber buyer, and daughter Gosia, who takes care of marketing. Ambermoda’s small workshop and showroom are near Gdansk. The largest jewellery manufacturer in Poland, S&A Jewellery Design, founded in 1992, employing some 200 people, showcased a range of silver and amber designs. “Our pieces are market-specific,” said Dominika Czechowska, Managing Director, “since some countries prefer different colours or shapes.” She added that S&A also sells to shopping channels and has distribution around the world, including 70 outlets in China.
Above: Inclusion of insects in amber. Below: Inclusions create a “face” in raw amber. Samples provided by Amber Planet. Necklace made of cubes of amber set with silver by Ambermoda.
Ring with three colours of amber set in silver by S&A Jewellery Design.
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M A R K E T P L A C E
Pendant in gold-plated satin silver by Zimmermann Design. Facetted amber and gold pendant by Art 7.
Another leading company in silver and amber fashion jewellery, plus gold-plated pieces, is Zimmermann Design. “We carry a wide range of products,” stated Ditta Zimmermann, “including convertible jewellery, and our new Solaris line made of facetted amber.” She added that “clients in Europe prefer smaller silver and amber pieces, while Chinese customers prefer large honey-tone pendants. Facetted amber was also seen at Art 7, owned by Wojciech Kalandyk, a company selling a wide range of amber set in silver, as well as an impressive array of chunky natural amber and silver pendants. In terms of chunky natural amber, the signature style of Danuta BurczikKruczkowska was seen in necklaces and bracelets made of large, unheated, natural beads of varying sizes and shapes. “The beads get ‘polished’ as they are worn,” smiled Ms. Burczik. Prices for these large statement pieces range from a few hundred dollars up to several thousand. The company also creates small sculptures such as a tongue-in-cheek amber whistle pendant on a cord.
Amber sculptures and jewellery were also seen at Studio DF. “We look at a piece of amber and then discuss with our silversmith how to create the best design, whether for jewellery or for an art object. We also make have small collections of unique pieces, some set with venge or ebony wood,” said Donata Kuryłek. Small sculptures of Buddhas, animals, and other motifs were on display at Ryszard Kulczynski’s Design & Style. “In addition to our honey-coloured bead necklaces, our elephants are especially sought after by our Chinese clients,” said Kulczynski. Artistic forms and beads in all sizes and shapes were the order of the day at Eva Stone, owned by Ewa Szyszko, and Bizuteria Wasowska, owned by Malgorzata Wasowska. Both booths also displayed a large variety of silver and amber jewellery.
Amber and silver pendant by Eva Stone.
Amber and silver peacock art object by Studio DF. Amber elepant by Design & Style.
Danuta Burczik-Kruczkowska wears one of her large natural amber necklaces. 62
Silver and amber brooch by Bizuteria Wasowska.
The Chinese Connection Walking the show, and listening to comments from exhibitors, it was clear that buyers from China were out in force. “At Amberif 2013, Chinese buyers are the fourth largest group,” stated Michal Kosier, Vice-President of the IAA. “Their attendance and orders have been growing over the last few years, as has the media interest in China.” Nancy Chui, IAA ambassador to China, added that Chinese interest in amber dates back more than 3,000 years, when it was originally used for its medicinal properties, then later decoration and adornment. “Today, Chinese consumers appreciate amber as a natural stone for its variety of colours, shades, and inclusions, in addition to its therapeutic qualities,” explained Ms. Chui. “Amber is often compared to jade as being from the ‘old days’ plus its ‘beneficial’ effect on the wearer. Both stones are facing the same challenges in their jewellery applications: How to remove the ‘old-fashioned’ image and appeal to modern Chinese customers? It seems that amber, with its wider presence globally, has advanced much faster than jade in reestablishing itself in modern jewellery with innovative designs.” Clearly, the attraction for amber is global. Whether the fascination for this living gem comes from art or jewellery or its medicinal properties, amber will continue to delight for many eons to come. Amberif 2014 will be held March 19 to 22. The next Ambermart will take place in Gdansk, August 29 to 31, 2013. (www.amberif.amberexpo.pl)
INTERNATIONALE FACHMESSE FÜR EDELSTEINE, EDELSTEINSCHMUCK UND EDELSTEINOBJEKTE INTERNATIONAL TRADE FAIR FOR GEMS, JEWELLERY AND GEMSTONE OBJECTS
October 3 - 6
2013 www.intergem.de
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S YM P O S I U M
ALL ABOUT AMBER: INTERNATIONAL AMBER RESEARCHER SYMPOSIUM Held in conjunction with the Amberif fair, at the newly opened and very modern Amber Expo, the International Amber Researcher Symposium featured a variety of speakers discussing a range of amber-related topics. By Barbara Wheat
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rganized by the International Amber Association in cooperation with the University of Gdansk and the Polish Academy of Sciences Museum of The Earth, Warsaw, the symposium was opened by the director of the academic seminar, Prof. Dr. Barbara Kosmowska-Ceranowicz, The Museum of the Earth, Polish Academy of Sciences, Warsaw: “These proceedings, with more than 30 presenters, will enrich our knowledge about amber coming from contributors of such unique and diverse backgrounds.” Entitled “Amber: Deposits, Collections, The Market,” the symposium attracted speakers from many parts of Poland, Lithuania, Russia, Ukraine, as well as China, France, Germany, Lebanon, the United Kingdom, and others. Topics ranged from highly scientific lectures to more historic and artistic presentations. On the scientific side, Barbara Slodkowska, Polish Geological Institute, presented her team’s research on the formation of Baltic amber. Other presenters shared research on Raman spectroscopy and various instruments used in the testing and identification of amber.
Insects in amber continue to fascinate scientists, who use them to glimpse into the past. Shown here is an example from the Polish brand, Amber Planet.
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Symposium participants, left to right: Jacek Szwedo, Department of Palaeozoology, Museum and Institute of Zoology, Polish Academy of Sciences; Prof. Dr. Barbara Kosmowska-Ceranowicz, Polish Academy of Sciences Museum of the Earth, in Warsaw; Ewa WagnerWysiecka, Chemical Faculty, Gdansk University of Technology.
The topic of mining Baltic amber deposits in Poland was addressed in a poster by Anna Malka and Regina Kramarska of the National Research Institute, Marine Biology Branch, in Gdansk. They noted that amber deposits from Holocene sediments have been found on the ground’s surface or at shallow depths in Gdansk, and that mining at deeper levels took place in 1868 in the area of Stegna, Poland. Current mining techniques include the hydraulic method, which is being used in Gdansk today. In addition to the many presentations dealing with Baltic amber, speakers also presented research on amber found in Lebanon and Burma as well as Dominican amber. Prof. Dr. Barbara Kosmowska-Ceranowicz and her colleagues presented new research findings of bird traces in Dominican amber, including eggshells, feathers, down, and even micro-bones. Dany Azar, Faculty of Sciences II, Department of Natural Sciences, Lebanese University, discussed state-of-the-art research on fossil resin. He attributed advances in amber research to tools such as x-ray
synchrotron tomography and the newer generation CT-scanners, which allow the study of the internal anatomy of amber via nondestructive means. Guanghai Shi, State Key Laboratory of Geological Processes and Mineral Resources, China University of Geosciences, Beijing, shed light on Burmese amber, known as burmite, which is the only Cretaceous amber deposit in the world being commercially exploited. Shi indicated that it is also the first such deposit to be studied scientifically. Several speakers covered topics on amber art, amber jewellery design, and amber collections such as the Hoffeins Inclusion Collection and the amber collection at the Malbork Castle Museum. Symposium delegates were hosted by Malbork Castle for an interesting guided tour after the conference. The International Amber Researcher Symposium will be held again next year in Gdansk in conjunction with the Amberif fair. For a list of speakers, visit: amberif.amberexpo.pl/title.SYMPOSIUM. pid.1594.html
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Bombay Convention & Exhibition Centre (BCEC) For registration visit www.iijs.org For details contact: The Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council Tel : +91-22 4354 1800 Fax: +91-22 2652 4769 Email: iijs@gjepcindia.com
M A R K E T P L A C E
THAILAND’S WORLD OF SILVER Since Thailand is the world’s largest exporter of silver jewellery, it was only logical that the theme of the 51st edition of the Bangkok Gems & Jewelry Fair would be the “World of Silver.” By Cynthia Unninayar
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After the official opening of the Bangkok Gems & Jewelry Fair, a gala fashion event showcased a variety of exquisite jewellery, created by a number of respected Thai brands, under the theme “Angels of Silver.” One of the highlights of this fashion parade of priceless pieces was the luxurious parure from Blue River, worn by Thailand’s top model Sririta Jensen.
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ilver did indeed dominate at the recent Bangkok Gems & Jewelry Fair (BGJF), held this past February. “It is time we showed off our silver masterpieces,” mused Somchai Phornchindarak, President of the Thai Gem and Jewelry Traders Association and the Gems, Jewelry, and Precious Metal Confed Confederation of Thailand. “Silver is clean and styl stylish, and offers unlimited imaginative design. The variety of Thai silver jewellery has been widely recognized in the global industry thanks to Thai craftsmanship and traditional savoir-faire. With the ‘World of Silver’ cam campaign, we want to make people aware of the fact that they can come to Thailand for their silver needs.” In addition to silver pieces by established brands, a special exhibition of silver jewellery at the Design Pavilion Trend 2014 show showcased a wide variety of creations by young designers from the Poh Chang Academy of Art. Under the theme “World of Silver to AEC,” 150 students submitted designs, which were inspired by the cultures of the ASEAN nations. In fact, ASEAN seemed be on everyone’s mind as Thailand prepares to join the ASEAN Economic Community (AEC) in 2015. With 600 million people, this makes the AEC one of the largest consumer blocks in the world. [The first AEC jewellery summit was held in Thailand last September, and is seen as the first step toward unprecedented levels of cooperation that could establish the region as a major player in the global gems and jewellery industry.] While silver stole the spotlight at the fair and in the gala fashion shows, the gold and gem sectors were certainly not ignored. Thailand ranks 11th in the world for gold jewellery exports, and is the 3rd largest exporter of facetted gemstones. This is due in part to cooperation between the govern government and private industry. In his address at the opening ceremony, Nattawut Saikuar, Deputy Minister of Commerce, commented
that this “joint public/private cooperation will continue to sustain Thailand’s status as an international leader in the gem and jewellery industry and will eventually bring continuous growth to the Thai sector.” He also stressed the economic importance of the industry, explaining that the gems and jewellery sector contributes more than US$13.1 billion in export revenue to the nation, despite the weak world economy, and that it provides massive employment. Facilitating Business Among the government supported initiatives are the Zero-VAT pavilion, where rough gemstones from around the world are sold free of the 7-percent value added tax, and a duty free zone for manufacturing and trading. “Gemopolis is a world-class industrial estate specialized in servicing the gems and jewellery trade,” explained Phornchindarak. “It is a tax-free area, which benefits local and foreign traders, offering a wide array of nontax privileges. International companies in the The tiara/brooch from the fashion gala, made of gemstones and silver, by Blue River.
gems and jewellery sector are keenly interested in the vast capacities that Gemopolis offers.” Fair organizers are also negotiating with the Thai Government to introduce a dutyfree system for items brought into Thailand specifically for the Bangkok Fair. Suttipong Damrongsakul, CEO of the BGJF, stated that his goal was to have this duty-free facility in operation for the September 2013 fair. This would effectively make the BGJF a free port and comparable to fairs in other duty-free locations in Asia. The Bangkok fair is, however, first and foremost a trade show, and was organized to make buying and selling as easy as possible between the 3000 exhibitors and the nearly 40,000 visiting buyers from more than 100 countries. As evidence of the fair’s international appeal, 300 of its exhibitors came from overseas, from 36 other nations, including the USA and Europe. Among other initiatives to facilitate business was the “Gems & Jewelry Factory Outlet”, which saw brisk business as the BGJF cash-and-carry market, where all categories of jewels, even from major companies, were available at competitive prices. Continuing its popularity was the “Business Matching Service,” an online sourcing project that enabled buyers to locate specific suppliers for specific products, and then to meet them at the show. The “Ploi Thai Jewelry Creation” exhibition has now become an essential part of the BGJF, and offered visitors a chance to see fine jewellery bearing the “Ploi Thai” country brand. Each piece on display was designed and created by some of Thailand’s finest artisans for the event and showcases the creativity, capacities, and craftsmanship of Thai manufacturers. The “Design Pavilion” featured upcoming trends in jewellery. While some Thai companies brand their own jewellery, many others serve as a manufacturer for some of the world’s largest well-known brands, as well as many smaller brands. On these pages are examples of a variety of Thai companies, selling both branded and non-branded pieces, in both gold and silver.
Ruby and diamond necklace in silver by Beauty Gems.
Silver, gemstone, and diamond pendant by JNB Mfg.
Gemstone, pearl, and silver earrings and necklace by Dhevan Dara.
Comments from Buyers Visitors to the Bangkok Gems & Jewelry Fair offered various opinions on how they found the show and its suppliers. “Apart from Thailand, we only order from Italy. We find the fair to be very good and come every time. On this trip, we met 20 exhibitors and will order about US$50,000 worth of product. The Business Matching Service provided a very nice set-up to make good contacts. It helped save time to source reliable suppliers that match our specific requirements.” – Margarethe Leeb, Leeb & Leschanz Gmbh, Austria.
Ruby and diamond earrings by Princess Gems.
Ruby and diamond ring by Gem Production. 67
M A R K E T P L A C E “I have been attending the Bangkok Fair for 3-4 years now. Usually my company in Hong Kong looks for fashion and silver jewel-lery here. What I like most about this fair is that everything is located in one big hall, so it’s very straightforward planning and easy to find things without going up and down too many floors.” – Miroslav Polak, Sales Manager of Preciosa International (H.K.), Hong Kong. “The Bangkok Gems & Jewelry Fair is fantastic and has a great range of products for our selection. In addition, the Business Matching Service was also very helpful and efficiently set up. We found that Thai exhibi-tors are very creative and offer us innovative designs. We plan to start our order from Thailand at around AU$10,000.” – Bob and Ali Lawrence, Alibaba’s Treasures, Australia. “I am a small retailer with a shop in Beirut, and visit only a fair each year. This is my second time at the show. I like it a lot as it offers many suppliers and it is very easy to find things I am looking for, especially silver jewellery with more strange and edgy designs.” – Farah Yamout, AL Farah Modern Company, Lebanon.
Silver, gemstone, and pearl ring by Goldlip.
Sapphire, gold, and diamond earrings by Beverley K. Emerald and diamond ring and necklace by LS Oriental.
“This is my first time to the show and I am very impressed. There are a lot of products. I met more than fifty companies and am very interested in about ten of them. The Business Matching Service allowed me to meet with many exclusive suppliers that serve my needs, which would be difficult just walking the show. My order will be around US$100,000.” – Alan Maldanado, Alhema Jewelry, Mexico. “I have visited the Bangkok show many times. Thailand is my preferred choice of suppliers.” – Michelle Stallard, Michelle Stallard, United Kingdom. “The Business Matching Service is great for buyers visiting the show. You set up all the meetings, and the suppliers come to see me, knowing what I want. I plan to buy from Thailand about US$100,000 worth of product.” – Reza Piroznia, Jewellery Jamboree Gems, Canada.
Carved tiger by KdeCraft, a specialist in sculptures of various motifs.
Facetted yellow and blue sapphires and rubies from TC Mining. 68
Silver, gemstone, and pearl parure by Pochai.
“Thailand is an excellent source for gems and jewellery and I have been visiting the Bangkok show for the last ten years. This is the first time I used the Business Matching Service and it helped me in locating new suppliers. My purchases from Thailand will increase about 20 percent to US$1.2 million this time.” Aseem P. Singh, Links Inc., USA. The 52nd edition of the Bangkok Gems & Jewellery Fair will take place September 6-9, 2013. (www.bangkokgemsfair.com)
Gold and gemstone bracelet by Pranda Jewelry.
M A R K E T P L A C E
HKIJS: 30 YEARS & COUNTING A milestone was reached in March as the Hong Kong International Jewellery Show celebrated its 30th birthday, and showcased jewellery, gemstones, and related products from around the world. By Cynthia Unninayar
O Yellow and white diamond earrings in gold by Temptations (Hong Kong).
Sapphire, diamond, and gold tassel earrings by MVee (Hong Kong).
Model wearing diamond jewellery by K.A.R.P. (Hong Kong).
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rganized by the Hong Kong Trade Development Council (HKTDC), the Hong Kong International Jewellery Show (HKIJS) celebrated this important anniversary with a healthy dose of optimism, especially given the record number of exhibitors and buyers. Jack So, HKTDC Chairman, commented on the growing interest in Hong Kong: “As the global economic balance continues to shift to Asia, Hong Kong is the ideal business platform from which to access the myriad regional opportunities now available in the growing ASEAN area and the Chinese mainland.” The growing numbers of non-Asian companies exhibiting at the HKIJS clearly seem to understand his message. This is perhaps why the Italian pavilion is one of the largest pavilions at the event with 150 exhibitors, and why officials from the Fiera di Vicenza were also in attendance. Corrado Facco, Executive Director, Paola De Luca, Creative Director and forecaster of the fair’s Trendvision report, and Paola Guida, Italian Trade Commissioner in Hong Kong, organized a press conference on the first day to review the significance of the Italians’ involvement. “In 2012, $658 million of Italian jewellery was exported to Hong Kong,” said Guida, adding that Italy was the sixth largest supplier of jewellery to Hong Kong. The Italians were not the only ones looking to attract the attention of the recordbreaking number of 42,000 buyers from 140 nations, including an upsurge in visitors from emerging nations. In total, the fair hosted 3,300 exhibitors from 49 countries and regions, including first-timers Cyprus, Lebanon, and Peru, along with 17 group pavilions and seven international trade organization pavilions—among them the Antwerp World Diamond Centre and the Israel Diamond Institute, understandable since Hong Kong has long been one of Asia’s leading diamond trading centres. (Last year, the city’s diamond trade exceeded HK$240 million.)
All of this suggests rising confidence in the global jewellery industry, an observation confirmed by an independent survey of 800 show participants. Commissioned by the HKTDC, the survey showed that 85 percent of buyers interviewed expect a growing or steady turnover this year, while 76 percent of exhibitors believe that the market this year is better than or comparable to last year. Sapphire and diamond “Flamboyance” floral brooch by Green G. (Hong Kong).
Diamond, tsavorite, and gold pendant by Vida (Hong Kong).
Colourful diamond, gemstone, and gold “Peacock” ring from E&V Jewellery (Hong Kong).
A Glimpse into “Asian” Design The majority of HKIJS exhibitors were from the Asian region: Singapore, Japan, Indonesia, the Philippines, Thailand, Taiwan, Korea, China, and of course Hong Kong. Their original and creative designs spanned a wide range of styles and materials. Florals and animal motifs were quite popular, while others featured rivers of diamonds and sumptuous suites. As in the global market, silver designs and lacy creations addressed the economic concerns of the day and the high metals prices. Below is a glimpse into only a few of the many creative Asian companies exhibiting at the HKIJS. Hong Kong designer brands offered a wide assortment of jewellery, from simple to sophisticated, in all types of gemstones and metals. Temptations lives up to its name with luxurious diamond and coloured gemstone
Pearl, diamond, and gold earrings by Kavant (Thailand).
Silver and smoky quartz rings by Kusion (Hong Kong).
parures. MVee offers a wide assortment of styles and collections, while Vida targets a more youthful audience. K.A.R.P. specializes in dazzling diamond pieces, and elegant and colourful creations are on the menu at E&V Jewellery. Sabina Lee, the creative force behind Green G., has a green thumb when it comes to her garden of flowers, leaves, and other luxurious pieces in diamonds and gems. Designer Winda Lee, of Eden, who sells mainly in China, produces a variety of pieces, including animal motifs. Kate Po, of Kusion, likes to mix different elements together. The HKIJS featured a number of designers from other parts of Asia. Manila-based Jewelmer continues to impress with its glorious South Sea golden pearl jewellery. Taiwanese Helen Chang’s Bel Tung brand focuses on florals and butterflies. Singapore’s Yang Lay tends toward bigger and bolder designs in silver with coloured gems. Gina/Vajra from Korea interprets flowers in precious metals. First-time exhibitor from Indonesia, Giana Nirmala Nubia’s large massive pieces caught everyone’s attention. Thailand and Japan were well repre represented. From Thailand, the dynamic duo of Kavant and Sharart joined the HKIJS for the first time and wowed visitors with their creative selections, as did long-time partici participant Zorab with its bold and colourful pieces. From Japan, Sekikazu featured his signature enamel and silver lines, while Jizai/Kodama showcased the brand’s skill in crafting realistic, fully articulated insect brooches. Hiroko Saito’s H-Iron drew attention with her unusual metal combinations, as did the innovative dancing diamond pendants from Crossfor, while Okurado captures the delicate beauty of Japanese cherry blossoms.
Diamond, ruby, emerald, and gold jewellery by Eden (Hong Kong).
South Sea golden pearl, diamond, and gold bracelet by Jewelmer (Philippines).
Model wearing gold and gemstone jewellery by Giana Nirmala Nubia (Indonesia).
Realistic flower brooch in silver and pearl by Gina/Vajra (Korea). 71
M A R K E T P L A C E Helping Business To help improve business and how it is conducted, the HKTDC continually looks for ways to improve and streamline transactions. This year, it introduced the “Small-Order Zone (SMO),” designed to keep pace with the changing needs of buyers. With quantities ranging from 5 to 500, the SMO offered a wide range of quality products from reliable suppliers, below US$1,000 per piece. The zone attracted more than 4,600 buyer visits and created about 8,000 enquiries. Another very helpful addition, especially for small businesses, was the launch of the Pay App, a new mobile point-of-sale payment solution, created by Visa in concert with the HKTDC. “The whole phenomenon in the USA was the trigger for the launch,” explained Tom Tobin, Visa country manager for Hong Kong and Macau. “Like America’s Square reader, the Pay App is a small device that affixes to smart phones to accept credit card swipes.” This simple and cost-effective service facilitates and streamlines transactions, while maintaining a record for both sellers and buyers.
Fully articulated gold and diamond dragonfly brooches by Jizai Kodama (Japan).
Silver and enamel pendant by Sekikazu (Japan).
Gold earrings by H-Iron (Japan).
“This is my first visit to this show. I came here to look for new suppliers and to see what other manufacturers are doing. So far, I have placed orders worth around US$10,000, while some are still under negotiation. It is a great show, covering the whole spectrum of the jewellery industry. Definitely, I’ll visit this show again next year.” – Jaslena Ahmad, Managing Director, Style Ventures, Sdn Bhd, Malaysia. “It is our second time visit to this show. It is a perfect venue for us to find new products and keep abreast of the design trends and production technologies. So far, we have placed orders for US$1 million worth of diamond and yellow gold jewellery. The demand for diamond and yellow gold jewellery is increasing in India because our consumers like to buy diamonds and gold as an investment.” – Prasanna Kumar, Director, Nathella (with seven stores), India. The next HKIJS will be held in March 2014. See their website for further details at www.hktdc.com. Diamond, gold, and enamel hair pin by Okurado (Japan).
Black onyx, diamond, and gold earrings by Sharart (Thailand).
Multi-gemstone and gold pendant by Zorab (Thailand).
Designer Yang Lay with model wearing silver and amethyst back pendant (Singapore). 72
Buyers’ Comments “This is our eighth year attending this show. The HKIJS fair is a good place to see new materials and designs for inspirations, and also to make new contacts.” – Leslie Therriault, Merchandiser, Delmar International, Canada. “We have been coming to the HKIJS for many years because this show provides good variety, and we find the right suppliers here. We are particularly interested in the jewellery products offered by exhibitors from China and Hong Kong.” – Daniel Espinosa de los Monteros, Director, Daniel Espinosa Jewelry, Mexico.
Black opal, gemstone, and gold butterfly brooch by Bel Tung (Taiwan).
Delicate gold pendant with centre “Dancing Stone” that twirls by means of a patented mechanism by Crossfor (Japan).
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DAZZLING IN DOHA In 2003, the Doha Jewellery and Watches Exhibition began modestly in the ballroom of a hotel. Over the last decade, it has grown into one of the industry’s premiere events, attracting the biggest and brightest names in the global jewellery and watchmaking sector. By Cynthia Unninayar
O
rganized by the Qatar Tourism Authority (QTA), the Doha Jewellery and Watches Exhibition (DJWE) opened to the public on February 26, showcasing more than 530 of the world’s finest jewellery and watch brands, spread out over 15,000 square-meters. There was no question that Doha was dazzling during the six-day event, which featured the world’s highest concentration of luxury jewellery, timepieces, and objets d’art under one enormous roof. It seemed to combine the best of Basel and Geneva’s SIHH, with the addition of a number of impressive regional brands. “The event has established itself as one of the most important specialized regional and international exhibitions in the jewellery and luxury goods industry,” stated QTA chairman, Issa bin Mohamed al-Mohannadi. “This year we are delighted to welcome 26 exhibitors, that represent many of the world’s best known and most prestigious gemstone, jewellery, and watch brands.” Of these 26 exhbitors, most are large retailers in Qatar, which then feature their own groups of clients. The main pavilions included Al Fardan Jewellery, Ali Bin Ali Watches & Jewellery, Amiri Gems, Fifty One East, Blue Salon, Al Majed Jewellery, Al Muftah Jewellery, and Paris Gallery, among others. By the end of the show, more than 50,000 people had visited the exhibition from around the region, including the UAE, Kuwait, Saudi Arabia, Bahrain, and Oman, making the DJWE such an important event that many brands come to Doha to launch their global premieres. This year, one such company was Chopard. Co-owner Caroline Scheufele was on hand at the Geneva brand’s booth in the spacious Al Fardan Jewellery pavilion to debut its La Strada watch collection. “Chopard has been working with Al Fardan for more than 40 years,” said Scheufele. “Both fathers started working together and the children grew up knowing each other. Since both
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The Doha Jewellery and Watches Exhibition celebrated its 10th anniversary in 2013, with 530 of the world’s finest brands participating, and more than 50,000 visitors coming from around the region.
are family companies, this creates greater synergy and closer ties.” She went on to say that the region is an important market for Chopard, which is why she came to Doha to launch the new line. “When I began making sketches of La Strada, I was completely caught up in a whirl of classic cinemarelated images,” she mused, adding that her great appreciation of Fellini inspired her to name the line after one of his films. The brand also featured high jewellery pieces as well as haute horlogerie watches. Four of the Main Pavilions Chopard was one of five dozen brands in the Al Fardan Jewellery pavilion. A few of the others were Fabergé, Harry Winston, Masriera, Piaget, Carrera y Carrera, and first-timer La Reina, as well as the company’s extraordinary collection of natural pearl jewellery, showcased in the Gallery Al Tawash. Created in 1954, Al Fardan Jewellery has grown into one of the Gulf’s most renowned pearl and jewellery retailers.
With origins also dating back more than a half-century, Ali Bin Ali Watches and Jewellery hosted nearly three dozen major brands, including Van Cleef & Arpels, Richard Mille, Pomellato, Cartier, Audemars Piguet, Aaron Basha, and Graff (which had its own large stand outside of the main pavilion). Another impressive pavilion was organized by Al Majed Jewellery, a major Qatari retailer whose origins can also be traced back to pearl trading in the early 20th century. The Al Majed family still owns one of the world’s most valuable collections of natural pearl jewellery, on display at the show. Among the retailer’s four dozen brands were Autore, Crivelli, Ivanka Trump, Nanis, Roberto Coin, Zydo, and first-timer Sicis Jewels. (Sicis Jewels’ parent company created the spectacular gold mosaics for Doha’s Golden Mosque located in the new cultural centre.) Created more than seven decades ago, Fifty-One East, directed by Bader Abdullah Al-Darwish, is the longest-standing retail chain in Qatar, selling many luxury lifestyle
Caroline Scheufele introduces Chopard’s new La Strada watch at the DJWE.
products including watches, jewellery, fashion, fine apparel, cosmetics, fragrances, and electronics. With a name that reflects its location’s longitude, 51 degrees East, the company’s stand at the DJWE included two dozen brands, among them, Rolex, Tudor Boucheron, Pasquale Bruni, and Waterman. Around the Show In the various pavilions, truly remarkable pieces of jewellery were on display. True to form, ninth-year exhibitor Graff showcased a variety of luxurious diamond and gemstone pieces. Among them was a spectacular diamond dragonfly, with articulated wings made of white and yellow diamonds, valued at $2 million. The brand also featured fabulous wedding sets. Clive Golanski, Senior Executive, explained. “The wedding season is coming up, so we have included some bridal jewellery sets this year, which have not been seen anywhere else.” Spectacular diamond jewellery was also on the menu at the Mouawad stand. Pascal Mouawad, a fourth generation member of the family business and head of the brand’s retail division, commented, “We are fondly bound to Qatar as it has played a significant
L’Incomparable Diamond Necklace by Mouawad, comprised of 91 diamonds totalling 635.40 cts and a 407.48-ct internally flawless centre diamond.
Christie’s featured this convertible diamond tiara/necklace by Boucheron from 1947 in its private sale at the DJWE.
role in the company’s history. During the last two editions of the DJWE, we unveiled two of our most incredible and unique creations: the Mouawad 1001 Nights Diamond Purse and the Snow White Princess Diamond Watch.” This year, Mouawad presented an even more remarkable piece—L’Incomparable Diamond Necklace—made of 91 diamonds, totalling 635.40 carats. According to the brand, the amazing centre stone is the world’s largest internally flawless diamond (GIA-graded) and weighs 407.48 carats. A first-time exhibitor at the 2013 DJWE, Christie’s had a stand-alone booth near the entrance to the show, where it displayed the auction house’s private collections. Important pieces included a pair of attractive earrings with natural pearls by Harry Winston, a historical brooch with Imperial provenance, an emerald and diamond necklace by Cartier, and loose diamonds up to 70 carats. The pièce de résistance was a magnificent diamond tiara set in platinum and gold by Boucheron, circa 1947, that can be converted into a necklace, with matching earrings.
Extraordinary yellow and white diamond necklace (131.12 cts) from the Scroll Motif Collection by Graff. 75
MARKETPLACE
Earrings in diamonds and Gemsfield emeralds by Fabergé, present at the Al Fardan pavilion.
Jewellery from the Region A number of companies from the Gulf area presented beautiful collections of jewellery. The largest was Al Zain, founded in 1930 by pearl merchant Abdulla Al Zain. One of the oldest jewellery companies in Bahrain, Al Zain operates 15 retail stores in high-end malls around the Middle East, in addition to its worldwide wholesale business. At the DJWE this year, Al Zain introduced its new Maharaja collection, inspired by the splendour of the great rulers of India. “The Maharaja collection is the second in a series, following our earlier ArabDeco collection,” said Samar Al Zain, co-owner of the brand
Necklace from the new Maharaja collection by Al Zain. 76
Double rings in burnished gold and diamonds by Noudar, inspired by traditional Arabic culture.
with her husband and children. “It consists of pieces handcrafted from the finest rose-cut, briolette, and brilliant-cut diamonds, as well as natural pearls set in 18K gold.” Al Zain also featured bridal sets, its own 21K handcrafted Bahraini gold pieces, and other gemstone, pearl, and diamond pieces. The Qatari brand, Noudar, made its second appearance at the DJWE. Created by Noor Alfardan, of the Al Fardan family, the brand presented several collections inspired by Arabic culture and Middle-Eastern fashion, but with a modern perspective. Noudar is sold in Britain as well as in the Middle East. Another Qatari company, Versailles, specialized in traditional gold jewellery, many intended for weddings. Some of the bridal sets were made of more than one kilogram of gold, according to owner Hassan Yousef Al Jaber. The company also displayed a wide variety of everyday pieces. Based in Dubai, Prologue manufactures high-end jewellery and original objets d’art. Its booth displayed extraordinary statues made of gold, silver, enamel, diamonds, and coloured gemstones. “Many pieces have been custommade for clients here in the region,” explained Corrine de Aranda, the company’s managing director. Among the most popular objects were motifs evoking Arabian horses, falcons, and other aspects of local life.
This decorative perfume bottle holder in gold, silver, enamel, and gemstones was one of many art objects created by Prologue.
Issa bin Mohamed al-Mohannadi, chairman of the QTA, declared the DJWE a great success, adding that “the event has given a boost to the country’s image as a major exhibition centre at the international level.” It also highlights the QTA’s strategy to support a thriving industry, which reaches beyond the shores of Qatar to include the world’s top global brands. (www.qatartourism.gov.qa)
Traditional gold wedding jewellery by Versailles.
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M A R K E T P L A C E
SIHH: POETRY, TRADITION, & MÉTIERS D’ART The 23rd edition of the by-invitation-only Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH)—the elite gathering of some of the most prestigious names in Haute Horlogerie—took place a few months ago against the backdrop of a record 2012 for Swiss watch exports. By Cynthia Unninayar
Piaget, Couture Précieuse high jewellery cuff watch; rose gold case set with 297 brilliant-cut diamonds, silvered dial; Piaget 56P quartz movement.
Les Heures Fabuleuses de Cartier: Parrot watch and ring in rhodium-plated white gold set with brilliant-cut diamonds; beak in mother-of-pearl; eyes set with emeralds; quartz movement. Van Cleef & Arpels, Lady Arpels Papillon Bleu Nuit: 38-mm white gold case; diamond-set bezel; mother-of-pearl dial with champlevé, plique-à-jour, and paillonné enamel, diamonds; manual movement; limited edition of 22 pieces. Van Cleef & Arpels, Lady Arpels Ballerine Enchantée: 40.5-mm white gold case; diamond-set bezel; dial with guilloché background, translucent and champlevé enamel, sculpted gold, diamonds; double retrograde mechanical movement, time on demand; numbered edition, permanent collection.
W
hile mechanical prowess was clearly on stage with many brands at the SIHH, the main recurring theme seemed to be a return to traditional skills and the poetic interpretation of time—to the “Metiers d’art.” Enamelling, marquetry, mosaics, guillochage, miniature sculpture and painting, Etruscan granulation, and of course sumptuous stone setting were used on their own or in combination to create timepieces that evoked pure and timely elegance and extravagance. Shown here are a few examples of brands engaged in the most creative forms of these artistic crafts. The poetry of time was in the air at Van Cleef & Arpels, with ladies’ timepieces that centred on “A World of Movement, Lightness and Grace.” The brand introduced four exceptional limited editions of its “Charms
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Piaget, Limelight Gala: 32-mm 18K white gold case set with 62 brilliant-cut diamonds; dial set with 228 brilliant-cut diamonds with white gold indexes; Piaget 690P quartz movement; bracelet and integrated clasp set with 451 brilliant-cut diamonds.
Extraordinaires,” with dials filled with enchanting scenes of flowers and fairies, topped with an ethereal lucky charm. In its “Extraordinary Dials” collection, Van Cleef & Arpels presented high jewellery watches with colourful butterflies and flying kites decorating the dials, perfect examples of a combination of artistic virtuosity and feminine delicacy. The “Lady Arpels Ballerine Enchantée Poetic Complication” takes poetic and mechanical prowess to a new level. Inspired by a quote from Anna Pavlova—I’ve been dreaming that I was a ballerina, and that I was spending my whole life dancing as lightly as a butterfly—the beautiful ballerina is half dancer and half butterfly. A true miniature figurine, the golden ballerina is sculpted in relief and set with diamonds. Animated by a double retrograde movement, her tutu
rises up in two sections, first on one side to indicate the hours and then on the other side to show the minutes, before they both move down again simultaneously. This magical and enchanting manner of telling the time on demand is activated using a push-piece located at 8 o’clock. On the luxury feminine side, Piaget showcased two collections: “Limelight Gala” and “Couture Précieuse.” Limelight Gala draws inspiration from the 1960s when the Geneva watchmaker crafted dazzling jewellery timepieces for its feminine clientele. Imbued with glamorous chic, each of these timepieces has its own distinctive personality at the crossroads of art, design, and high jewellery. Among the highly stylized pieces in the Couture Précieuse line is the high jewellery cuff watch set with diamonds in rose gold.
Montblanc, Collection Princesse Grace de Monaco, Pétales de Rose Motif: 18K white gold case set with 810 diamonds; mother-of-pearl dial; automatic Swiss movement; diamond-set crown.
Les Heures Fabuleuses de Cartier: Baguette Panthère; case and bracelet in 18K rhodium-plated white gold set with brilliant-cut and baguette-cut diamonds; mechanical 101 MC manual movement.
Audemars Piguet, Royal Oak: 33-mm white gold case, with bezel, and bracelet set with 648 diamonds; silver-toned dial; date; quartz movement.
Vacheron Constantin, Métiers d’Art Florilège watches: 37-mm 18K white gold case; enamelled dial; diamond-set bezel; 4400 calibre movement; alligator bracelets; limited edition of 20 pieces.
In keeping with its vocation for extraordinary jewellery timepieces, Cartier featured a remarkable collection of 41 jewellery watches, including 23 unique editions, with the apt title: “Les Heures Fabuleuses de Cartier.” At first glance, many do not seem like watches at all, but rather luxurious pieces of jewellery. But, with a flick of a finger, a bejewelled bracelet or ring becomes a true timepiece. A wizard of watchmaking, Cartier has created serpents that slide off a watch to become a brooch, peacocks that take flight to adorn a lapel, and a parrot whose head turns to reveal the time on a ring, among other creative entities that conceal time one minute and reveal it the next. True to tradition, the panther has not been forgotten. Voluptuous and supple, one enamelspotted cat curls itself around the dial of the
“Panthère Divine de Cartier,” while another graceful little panther clings to the side of the “Baguette Panthère” with its paws and tail wrapped around the bracelet. A third panther was represented in an amazing timepiece with its face crafted of gold granulation. Drawing inspiration from Robert John Thornton’s coloured engravings entitled “The Temple of Flora,” published in 1799, Vacheron Constantin created artistic examples of the botanical illustrations popularized by British aristocrats during the late 18th century. Its “Métiers d’Art Florilège” collection features three rather amazing models— the White Lily, the Queen, and the China Limodoron. The White Lily features a fine guilloché pattern that draws light into the enamelled dial, while the Queen showcases Strelitzia Reginae, a lovely flowering plant
Roger Dubuis, Velvet High Jewellery timepiece: 36-mm round case with 304 invisibly-set diamonds; in-house automatic calibre RD821; Geneva Seal.
indigenous to South Africa. The China Limodoron evokes the flamboyant red and creamy white colours of an orchid. The feminine models of Audemars Piguet all reflect the spirit of independence cherished by the Geneva brand, along with its taste for elegance. Among the new ladies’ models from the “Royal Oak” collection were two luxurious diamond-studded pieces. One featured an automatic movement while the other offered a quartz version. Montblanc continued the “Princesse Grace de Monaco” collection with the unique and exclusive “Pétales de Rose Motif” line. Dedicated to the favourite flower of the princess, the rose petals determine the design of the bracelet, where invisible joints connect individual petal contours to create the floral loops of the linked bracelet. The entire watch is made from 18K white gold set with 810 diamonds. Roger Dubuis has also shown itself to be both a jeweller and a watchmaker. The brand’s “Velvet High Jewellery” timepiece is completely covered in diamonds, offering a luxurious blend of technicality and opulence, with 304 diamonds arranged in invisible settings that seem to magnify the precious stones totalling approximately 13.61 carats. The next SIHH will be held in Geneva from January 20 to 24, 2014. (www.sihh.org) 79
M A R K E T P L A C E
JEWELS AND GEMS DAZZLE IN THE DESERT The mood was cautiously positive at the winter jewellery and gem shows in the Arizona desert. An increase in the number of retailers attending the Centurion show in Phoenix as well as the AGTA show in Tucson signaled an upturn in confidence. By Cynthia Unninayar
T
he Centurion show kicked off the jewellery trade show circuit in the USA from a lush resort in Phoenix. As usual, the by-invitationonly event featured informative speakers, useful networking events, panel discussions, various awards for design and vendors, and a host of jewellery brands eager to showcase— and sell—their creations. New at Centurion this year, the Limited Edition Retailer Workshops offered special in-depth sessions on selected relevant topics with a small group size. This year’s keynote speakers, retired Navy officer Mike Abrashoff and Jerry Greenfield of Ben & Jerry’s, used personal examples to illustrate how people can take charge of what they can with what they can, to forge a path of success using the tools they have. Awards at Centurion One of the highlights of the show was the announcement of the winners of the Centurion Design Awards. Retailers voted for their favourite piece in each of 11 categories. The winners: Bridal, Frederic Sage with a diamond pavé engagement ring; Colored Stone Classic, a tie between Jack Abraham with a ruby ring and Jewels by Star with an emerald ring; Colored Stone Fashion, Spark Creations with a pair of green tourmaline drop earrings; Contemporary Metals, Todd Reed with a palladium and diamond cuff bracelet; Diamond Classic, Kwiat with its limited-edition “Revel” earrings; Diamond Fashion, a tie between Roberto Coin with a black and white diamond and green garnet cobra bracelet and Siera with a diamond floral pendant in 18K gold and black rhodium on a black rhodium chain; Gold, Heather Moore with a special-order wrap ring framed in cognac diamonds and personalized with the names of her children; Pearls, Yvel, with a one-of-a-kind 18K white gold and diamond necklace set with a baroque freshwater pearl;
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Platinum, Gumuchian with a versatile platinum and diamond “Bowlero” necklace; Silver, Charles Garnier Paris with its “Constellation” finish wavy cuff bracelet; Watches, Frederique Constant with its Lady Slimline Joaillerie watch. Some of the pieces are featured on these pages. Vendors also got to honour seven luxury retailers in the first Centurion Vendors’ Choice Retail Awards, which celebrated excellence in the areas of special events, advertising and marketing, sales associates, and overall excellence in the Store of the Year awards. The winners were: Best Special Events, Albert Jewelers, Scherville, Indiana; Best Mar Marketing/Advertising, London Jewelers, Glen Cove, New York; Best Retail Sales Associate, a three-way tied between Fragments, New York, New York, Mountz Jewelers, Carlisle, Pennsylvania, and Neiman Marcus, Dallas, Texas; Centurion Retailer of the Year, Under $5 Million, Craig’s Fine Jewelry of Ridgefield, Connecticut; and finally, Centurion Retailer of the Year Over $5 Million, Borsheim’s, Omaha, Nebraska.
Diamond and gemstone snake bracelet, co-winner of the Diamond Fashion category, by Roberto Coin.
Gold and diamond ring, winner of the Gold category, by Heather B. Moore.
Limited edition “Revel” earrings, winner of the Diamond Classic category, by Kwiat. Emerald and diamond rings, co-winner of the Coloured Stone Classic category, by Jewels by Star.
Platinum and diamond “Bowlero” necklace, winner of the Platinum category, by Gumuchian.
Out of a field of more than 300 entries, the three winners were: Sharlinn Liew of Thailand, Alessio Boschi of Australia, and Erika Bertin of the USA. All three presented innovative and very creative pieces that garnered a lot of attention from attending retailers and the media. “It is such an honor to receive this award from the Centurion Show and to be able to share my creations with retailers in the United States,” exclaimed Sharlinn Liew. “I am so very grateful for this experience and the response has been wonderful.” Similar sentiments were expressed by Alessio Boschi. “This is a wonderful opportunity for us, and we are delighted to be here at this amazing show. We are grateful for the wonderful response.”
Lika Behar cleverly covered a defect in an otherwise beautiful piece of turquoise with a gold and diamond snake, thus turning “lemons into lemonade.”
Centurion Emerging Designer winner Sharart presented this diamond and gold ring with pirouetting sapphires. Wavy cuff bracelet, winner of the Silver category, by Charles Garnier. Centurion Emerging Designer winner, Alessio Boschi, left, and business partner, Martino Eduardo Convertino, hold a diagram detailing one of Alessio’s complicated pieces of fine jewellery, and a tray of rings.
Diamond ring, winner of the Bridal category, by Frederick Sage.
This year, Centurion also selected three Emerging Designers, who were invited to present their products. Centurion president Howard Hauben stated, “We received a record number of entries this year, and they were all amazing. We’re proud to be able to offer the winners an unparalleled opportunity to meet the top prestige jewelers in the United States, and we’re equally proud to offer our Centurion attendees this level of outstanding global talent as an exclusive first introduction.”
First-Timers at Centurion On the exhibition floor, exhibitors presented a wide range of beautiful and saleable jewels. Newcomers to Centurion, Vianna Brasil and Brumani showcased colourful creations in gold and gems from their native Brazil. “Centurion is a wonderful venue to showcase our particular style from Brazil,” stated Ricardo Vianna. “We are happy to be here and to meet so many new customers as well as our regular clients.” Lika Behar showed ingenuity in several pieces that she mused were “lemons turned into lemonade.” She went on to explain, “There was a small defect in some of these otherwise beautiful pieces of turquoise, so I covered them with gold and diamonds, and designed around them.” One of the “lemonade” pieces was a sensual snake pendant that attracted more than a bit of attention, as did her turquoise and diamond rings.
Gold and gemstone bracelet by first-time Centurion exhibitor, Vianna Brasil.
Diamond and gemstone ring by first-time Centurion exhibitor, Brumani. 81
M A R K E T P L A C E Another first-time Centurion exhibitor was Jye’s International. Long known for its highquality upmarket pieces, Jye’s enjoyed a very good show. “We had strong interest in our products and opened many new accounts,” said Jennifer Chang, founder of the brand. “The show has exceeded our expectations.” Jye’s featured both bridal and fashion lines, including a wide variety of coloured gemstone and diamond creations, with many nature-inspired pieces, as well as a technique for easily interchanging the centre stone in pendants.
Delicate butterfly ring in gemstones, gold, and diamonds by Jye’s International.
Gemstone and gold bracelet by Bellarri.
Rainbow moonstone, diamond, and gemstone ring by H.Weiss. 82
Opal, diamond, and red sapphire earrings by Erica Courtney.
Gold, silver, tsavorite, and sapphire earrings by Arman Sarkisyan.
Paraiba tourmaline, gold, and diamond pendant by Rahaminov Diamonds.
On to Tucson The positive ambiance continued in Tucson. Speaking about the AGTA show at the Tucson Convention Center, February 5 to 10, Douglas Hucker, CEO of AGTA, was enthusiastic: “This was one of the best shows we have seen in several years. The energy on the floor was extremely positive, both from exhibitors and buyers. We had an exceptional turnout and sales were up; what more could you ask for?” Reportedly, there were 8600 buyers, up a percent over last year, who stayed longer and spent more. The number of exhibitors was also up slightly at 426. The AGTA held several new events this year that contributed to the show’s success. Among them was the Daily Drawing where buyers could win a $1,000 voucher to spend on the show floor. The AGTA underwent a few changes in layout this year. The Design Pavilion, formerly in the Grand Ballroom upstairs, relocated to a small section downstairs in the main hall. The large upstairs room was taken over by the new Tools, Technology, and Services Pavilion. Among those in the design section was Helen Serras-Herman, known for her gem sculptures and unique pieces of gemstone jewellery art. She presented a variety of Mayainspired pieces and large turquoise and gemstone necklaces. Also present was Brenda Smith, who presented original and handcrafted one-of-a-kind designs in gold, silver, and gemstones. Both women expressed the opinion that the designers were more visible in the Grand Hall than in the present location. While all types of stones were available, sellers indicated that prices are on the rise, due primarily to increasing demand from emerging
Black diamond earrings by AGTA Design Pavilion exhibitor Brenda Smith.
Helen Sarras-Herman wears a large multi-gemstone pendant at the AGTA Design Pavilion.
markets, especially China. Specifically mentioned were bigger high-quality gems such as tourmaline—including rubellite—tanzanite, and blue sapphires. Increased demand is also seen for quartz, especially the rutilated varieties that are being used more in finished jewellery. Anecdotally, exhibitors in the gem section at AGTA mostly seemed happy with the show, although some suggested that traffic could be better. Over at the large GJX tent, the corridors seemed a bit more crowded. In the end, though, the generally positive ambiance at the winter shows in the desert bodes well for the rest of the year.
SEPTEMBER
Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair
3,500 exhibitors from 48 countries & regions Over 51,500 buyers from 156 countries & regions Around 135,000 square metres of exhibition space Over
Theme Pavilion Highlights: The FINE DESIGN PAVILION hosts over 70 internationally renowned jewellery companies, bringing to the city exquisite jewellery set with luxurious and rare diamonds, gemstones and pearls, as well as top-quality bejewelled watches, invaluable antique and estate jewellery and other timepieces and exclusive one-offs from around the world. The FINE GEM PAVILION is dedicated to the world’s finest loose diamonds, pearls and gemstones. Over 50 esteemed exhibitors from around the world will display a variety of loose gems of the highest quality. The HONG KONG PREMIER PAVILION is the perfect setting to show what Hong Kong has to offer to the world’s luxury markets as a jewellery powerhouse. It features 40 of the city’s brightest brands in a prestigious and elegant setting befitting their exquisite masterpieces. The INTERNATIONAL PREMIER PAVILION features over 60 prestigious international jewellery companies presenting prominent jewellery brands and their latest collections.
Theme pavilions housed in two world-class venues: AsiaWorld-Expo • • • • •
AsiaWorld-Expo
Gemstones Diamonds Pearls Packaging, Tools & Equipment Fine Gem Pavilion
$LUSRUW ([SUHVV
Packaging, Tools & Equipment
Diamonds Halls 9 &11
Hall 11
Hall 2
Fine Gem Pavilion Hall 9
Diamonds Halls 5 & 7
Pearls Hall 1
Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre • • • • • • • • •
Hong Kong Pavilion Hong Kong Premier Pavilion International Premier Pavilion Fine Design Pavilion Silver Jewellery Jadeite Gallery Designer Avenue Jewellery Accessories Pearl Jewellery & Finished Jewellery • Asian Fine Jewellery • International Fine Jewellery • Antique & Vintage Jewellery
Gemstones
Halls 3, 6, 8 & 10
Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre Jewellery Accessories Hall 5D
Pearl Jewellery, Silver Jewellery & Finished Jewellery Hall 5E
Silver Jewellery Grand Foyer
Silver Jewellery Mezzanine 4 International Premier Hong Kong Pavilion Halls 3C, 3D & 3E Pavilion Halls 3B & 3C Designer Avenue Mezzanine 2
Grand Hall
Jadeite Gallery
Asian Fine Jewellery
Halls 5B & 5C
Fine Design Pavilion
Hong Kong Pavilion Hall 1 Concourse
Halls 1A, 1B & 1C
Expo Drive Entrance
Halls 5F & 5G
International Fine Jewellery Halls 3F & 3G
Antique & Vintage Jewellery,
Hong Kong Premier Pavilion Halls 1D & 1E
Harbour Road Entrance
Convention Hall
WORLD’S NUMBER ONE
The
Fine Jewellery Event SEPTEMBER Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair
11 - 15 September 2013 AsiaWorld-Expo • Hong Kong
Diamonds, Gemstones, Pearls, Equipment and Packaging
13 - 17 September 2013
Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre Fine Finished Jewellery
To exhibit, please contact Sales Department, Jewellery Fairs, UBM Asia Ltd Tel : (852) 2516 1677 / 2585 6179 Fax : (852) 3749 7319 Email : salesjgf-hk@ubm.com
www.JewelleryNetAsia.com
M A R K E T P L A C E
BASELWORLD: A NEW DIMENSION BaselWorld continues to reinvent itself, moving ever more into the high-end sector of watches and jewellery. Larger and yet more compact, the show has entered a new era, focused largely on luxury brands. By Cynthia Unninayar
T
he changes at BaselWorld have been in the works since 2004, when the fair’s owner, MCH Basel, set in motion the procedure to replace the provisional Hall 6, which housed the national pavilions, and create a new and more compact structure. Phase 1 of construction began in 2010 and continued for 22 months until the redesigned exhibition centre opened its doors on April 25. Larger, with nearly 141,000 square meters of exhibition space, the eightday show had 25 percent less exhibitors than last year (1460 from 40 nations), while visitor numbers were up 17 percent, setting a new record at 122,000. “With BaselWorld 2013, we have set new standards. This has further reinforced the uniqueness of this event. There is nothing comparable in the luxury goods industry anywhere in the world,” declared Sylvie Ritter, Managing Director of BaselWorld. The New Spaces Although larger, the new site is more com-pact, with the various halls closer together and internally accessible. René Kamm, CEO of the MCH Basel, explained, “One of the principal concerns was to improve the compactness of the exhibition ground, which had previously been divided into six individual buildings. More than half of the total exhibition area at the Messe Basel has now been accommodated in a single complex of halls.” One of the most striking features of the new complex is the rather imposing mesh metal façade extending along the new three-story Hall 1 complex. It also covers the new exten-sion of Hall 1.1 over the tramlines, which in-corporates what used to be the old Hall 3. The gemstone and diamond exhibitors from that hall have been displaced to the new Hall 3 lo-cated at the far (very far) end of Hall 1 in place of the old Hall 5. Although redesigned with spectacular multilevel stands, the home of the large Swiss watch brands remains Halls 1.0 and 1.1. A number of prestigious jewellery brands now
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The imposing metal mesh facade over the three-storey Hall 1 complex.
Fabergé was among the global luxury brands exhibiting in the extension of Hall 1.1. Shown here is of its remarkable necklaces made in emeralds and diamonds.
occupy Hall 1.1’s new extension, housed in impressive multi-story stands. All three floors of Hall 2 remain largely the same from a struc structural point of view. The major difference is that the former prestigious “Fifth Avenue” section of 2.2 has disappeared. Half of the hall now accommodates major jewellery brands while the other half has welcomed companies selling packaging, lighting fixtures, watches, and relat related products, thus drawing criticism from some of the floor’s upscale jewellers, who questioned the wisdom of this new arrangement. As with any change, there is a period of adjustment and overcoming growing pains. Hopefully next year, signage will be improved, especially in terms of accessing Hall 4 from Hall 1.1. Even the security guards were lost in trying to explain the way, in either direction. The National Pavilions Hall 4 is the new venue for the national pavilions, which came from Hall 6. The largest international presence was that of Hong Kong with 184 exhibitors. “After the SARS episode in 2013, we are starting a new chapter at Basel BaselWorld,” said Fred Lam, Director of the Hong Kong Trade Development Council. “We are
pleased to be here and have just committed to another five-year contract with the show.” He added that traffic was good and exhibitors were happy. Since Hall 6 held 239 companies, the selection of the 184 exhibitors, Lam explained, “centred on which companies would most benefit from participation at BaselWorld.” The second largest pavilion was Thailand. One national group that chose not to participate in Hall 4 was India. The exhibitors, who came to BaselWorld under the umbrella of India’s Gems & Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC) were spread out in four small pavilions in Halls 2.1 and 2.2. Each grouping was composed of several stands behind large panels enclosing the booths. When asked about being in Hall 2.2 in this type of arrangement, the answers were always the same: “We are very happy to be in 2.2, but very unhappy with the layout of the booths, which gives the feel of being in a bazaar.” GJEPC representative Sohil Kothari elucidated the situation: “We have been getting mixed feedback from exhibitors about their concerns for booth arrangements, and we are in discussions with the fair to see how we can improve visibility and the layouts for next year.” He added that Indian companies were happy with sales, even if exposure could have been better in some of the pavilions.
Bayco’s 206-ct high-quality emerald.
Gold and rhodium-plated silver bangles from The Fifth Season by Roberto Coin.
A Few Highlights Since it is impossible here to cover all the jewellery companies in Halls 1.1 and 2, a few examples of the products are shown on these pages, from simple silver pieces to the most sumptuous diamond and gemstone parures. The multi-story stands in the new Hall 1.1 extension were impressive, among them the circular stand of Swarovski that glittered with thousands of LED lights along its outside perimeter wall, and ceiling videos that played on cards held at certain points on the floor as the visitor walked around the stand. Fabergé’s two-story booth was decorated with elegant furniture in keeping with the brand’s history, and served as a fitting backdrop to its spectacular diamond and gemstone pieces. Acquired by Gemfields in late January 2013, Fabergé is making colour a focus of its collections. Roberto Coin had a large multistory stand out of the Arabian Nights, where the Vicenza brand featured a limited edition collection of gold and gemstone pieces, as well as 500 new models. Its youthful brand The Fifth Season had a range of new silver pieces. Nearby, Bayco displayed the most remarkable gemstone at the fair, a 206.09-carat Colombian emerald of exceptional colour and clarity, dubbed “The Imperial Emerald.” Giacomo Hadjibay, a co-owner of the New York-based family company, said the gem was purchased by his father from a private collector earlier this year. When asked if the stone was for sale, he replied that it would be kept by the family and loaned to museums to travel the world. Italian brand Utopia displayed a large assortment of pearl jewellery including its latest collection, “Claire De Lune,” inspired by the moon and the night sky. A few meters further, Messika offered dazzling diamond jewellery, plus a line of edgy spiked creations. Ti Sento celebrated its 10th anniversary at BaselWorld with a series of ten rhodium-plated sterling silver rings. The European brand has now expanded distribution in the USA. Moving to Halls 2.1 and 2.2, British brand Stephen Webster, in its 15th year at BaselWorld, revisited some of the brand’s most famous collections, reinventing the “Fly by Night” and 20s-inspired “Deco Haze” collections in diamonds and coloured gemstones. Webster said the fair was quite good and he made new contacts in addition to welcoming the brand’s established clients.
Diamond, gold, and pearl pendant in the Clair de Lune line by Utopia.
A whimsical gemstone, diamond, and gold brooch by Chinese brand TTF.
Emerald and black diamond earrings in the “Fly by Night” line by Stephen Webster.
Pink and white diamond ring by Messika.
Ring in silver to celebrate the 10th anniverary of Ti Sento.
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M A R K E T P L A C E Colour was also on the menu at Brazilian brand Vianna with its remarkable Paraiba tourmaline pieces along with the brand’s other colourful creations. Owner Ricardo Vianna expressed his satisfaction with the fair, saying that he was happy to have so many walk-ins as well as regular clients. Not far away, Mumbaibased Bapalal Keshavlal displayed the brand’s sumptuous diamond and gemstone parures. Owner Romy Mehta was delighted with the fair and the booth location. “We are also developing contacts with new potential clients in addition to our established ones. One of the goals of this show is to meet new people.” Creativity was definitely in the air at the Joaillerie de France pavilion, comprised of several French brands, among them Mathon Paris, with a new Manhattan line, and Lyon-based Tournaire. The son of founder Philippe Tournaire, known for his remarkable rings evoking houses and monuments, Mathieu Tournaire presented his first collection of “Lock & Love,” comprised of pendants with little padlocks. “In 2010, I discovered hundreds of padlocks on the Pont des Arts bridge in Paris and then later on the Brooklyn Bridge in New York. As I researched this phenomenon, I realized it has spread around the world, with lovers everywhere leaving the padlocks as a sign of eternal love, then throwing away the key to seal the union.” Mathieu recreated this romantic gesture with a series of gold pendants based on the Pont des Arts in Paris and the Tree of Life, which became a haven for padlocks in Moscow. The most elaborate stand was Sicis Jewels. The walls were lined with mosaics depicting Emperor Justinian and Queen Theodora and the royal court, which served as a fitting back-
A gold “Lock & Love” pendant by Tournaire. 88
Gemstone and gold ring by Vianna. Black and white diamond ring by Bapalal Keshavlal.
Italian fashion brand Rebecca introduced new collections of rhodium-plated bronze pieces, decorated with their very original Glam Film, while Greek brand Nikos Koulis featured a selection of exotic rings and pendants based on ancient Greek architecture. One of the more remarkable pieces was an earclip that uses a clever system of magnets to remain closed snugly in place.
Earrings in Glam Film and rhodiumplated bronze by Rebecca.
Hammered gold and diamond snake ring by Antonini.
Gemstone, diamond, and gold ring by Magerit.
Black diamond and gold earclip by Nikos Koulis.
Amethyst and gold earrings by Nanis.
drop for the brand’s amazing micro-mosaic jewels, including a new collection designed by Massimiliano & Doriana Fuksas. While there was no obvious single major trend, nature-inspired themes were popular, especially snakes. Of the many brands presenting snake jewellery, the Italian Antonini introduced its new “Aurea” line of sinuous snake-inspired gold and diamond rings, earrings and cuffs. Among its colourful creations, USA brand Miiori presented an intriguing collection called “Flash Set.” This patented setting technique uses diamonds and Swarovski topaz to give different colours and motifs that change as the piece is moved back and forth.
“Flash Set” earrings that change colour as they move back and forth by Miiori.
Diamond pendant by Coronet.
Moonstone and gold ring by Jochen Pohl.
From scintillating silver to dazzling diamonds, with a very strong emphasis on the diamonds, BaselWorld featured a wide range of jewellery. Anecdotally, most exhibitors expressed satisfaction at results, while others admitted disappointment and slow traffic. While the watch halls were, as expected, quite busy, the same was not evident in the jewellery sections. But, as with most fairs, mixed results can be expected, depending on product lines and other factors. One thing was abundantly clear, though, BaselWorld clearly intends to be a showcase for luxury, which will continue in the next edition, to be held March 27 to April 3, 2014. (www.baselworld.com)
Ed i t o ria l 2(X)ist 22, Cover IV Adami & Martucci 30 ADTF 59 AG Color 55 Al Zain 76 Aleksander Gliwinski 42 Alessio Boschi 81 Alice K 26 Ambalt 38, 43 Amber Planet 43, 61, 64 Ambermart 89 Ambermix 39, 42, 61 Ambermoda 43, 61 Antonini 23, 88 Arman Sarkisyan 82 Art 7 42, 62 Arunashi 24 Audemars Piguet 79 Bapalal Keshavlal 6, 7, 36, 88 Bavna 26, 29 Bayco 87 Beauty Gems 67 Beauty Gems bvba 57 Bel Tung 72 Bellarri 24, 82 Bergio 31, 41 Beverley K 41, 68 BGJF 69 Bibigi 30 Bizzotto Gioielli 20, 21, 34, 52 BK Jewellery 17 Blue River 66 Bogdan Frydrychowicz 43 Bohemme 30, 53 Boucheron 75 Brenda Smith 82 Brumani 81 Carelle 28
a nd
Carla Amorim 23 Caroline C 27, 35 Cartier 78, 79 Casato Roma 52 Charles Garnier 81 Chopard 75 Claude Thibaudeau 40 Clementina Duarte 26 Commelin 39 Coronet 88 CPAA 49 Creart II 38 Cris Porto 37, 38 Crivelli 23 Crossfor 72 Damiani 24, 34, 37 Daniel Espinosa 28 Danka Czapnik 43 Delance 30 Denise James 23 Design & Style 62 Dhevan Dara 67 Diarough 56 E&V Jewellery 70 Eden 71 Effy 35 Enzo 43 Erica Courtney 82 Eva Stone 42, 62 Fabergé 23, 76, 86 FHH 77 Fope 54 Forever Jewels 39 Frederick Goldman 40 Frederick Sage 81 Gainerie 91 50, 51 Gem Production 67 Gemfields 4, 5, 23 Gems Cube 83 Georland 24
Ad ve r tisers’ Giana Nirmala Nubia 71 Gina/Vajra 71 Golconda 38 Goldesign 34 Goldlip 68 Gordon Aatlo Designs 23 Goshwara 35 Graff 36, 75 Green G 41, 70 Gumuchian 36, 81 H-Iron 72 H.Weiss 82 Heather B. Moore 40, 80 Helen Sarras-Herman 82 HKJGF 84, 85 House of Baguettes 40 IIJS 65 Il Perseo 43 Intergem 63 Isabelle Langlois 30, 38 Italian Design 53 Ivanka Trump 40 J Jewels Milano 23, 28 J. Pinchasi 58 Jaceek Ostrowski 42 Jack Kelege 9, 26, 41 Jafarov 39 JCK 73 JEA 48 Jewelmer 10, 11, 71 Jewels by Star 80 Jizai/Kodama 39, 72 JNB Mfg 67 Jochen Pohl Cover I, 16, 25, 88 John Apel 36 Joia 37 Jorge Revilla 30 Jye’s International 32, 33, 41, 82
K.A.R.P. 70 Katie Decker 28 Kavant 28, 71 KC Designs 30 K de Craft 68 Kirk Kara 41 Kruczkowska 62 Kusion 71 Kwiat. 80 Le Vian 38, 53 Leaderline 28 Lika Behar 46, 81 Lorenz Baumer 37 Luca Carati 26, 53 Lydia Courteille 38 Maevona 40 Magerit 14, 15, 88 Malgorzata Wasowska 42, 62 Marcin Zaremski 43 Marco Bicego 34 Mark Schneider 39 Mathon Paris 37 Mattioli 35 MCL 30 Messika 36, 87 Michael Endlich 23 Michael M 40 Miiori 88 Minawala 35 Misis 39, 52 Mouawad 75 Muzo International 23 MVee 26, 35, 70 NAC Amber 38, 43, 60 Nanis 88 Nikos Koulis 88 Norman Silverman 37 Noudar 76 Nouvelle Bague 24
Index OGI 40 Okurado 72 Oly Lynggaard 30 OMI Gems 26 Opera Omnia 24 Oro Trend 26 Oromalia 54 Oscar Heyman 37 Pamela Huizenga 28, 35, 46 Paula Crevoshay 38 Penny Preville 24 Peter Lam 38 Piaget 78 Pippo Perez 39 Pochai 68 Ponte Vecchio 36 Pranda Jewelry 68 Princess Gems 67 Prologue 76 Quadamas 37, 41, 47 Rahaminov Diamonds 82 Ramon 13 Rebecca Cover II, 3, 34, 88 Reena Ahluwalia 36 Revabella 30 Robert Wan 28 Roberto Coin 34, 38, 54, 80 Rodney Rayner 23 Roger Dubuis 79 Rosato 54 Rosy Blue Cover III Royal Asscher 36 Ruth Grieco 38 S&A Jewellery Design 42, 61 Santagostino 54 Sekikazu 72
Sharart 26, 28, 72, 81 Simon G 40 Staurino Fratelli 38 Stephen Webster 87 Studio DF 42, 62 Suzanne Kalan 30 Suzy Landa 24 Sylvie 36, 41 Syna 23 Tamara Comolli 35 TC Mining 68 Temple St. Clair 34 Temptations 70 The Fifth Season 87 Thistle & Bee 30, 46 Ti Sento 87 Tivoli Jewels 44, 45 Toby Pomeroy 40 Todd Reed 30 Tournaire 88 Tresor 34 TTF 87 Uneek 41 Utopia 28, 87 Vacheron Constantin 79 Van Cleef & Arpels 78 Versailles 76 Vianna Brasil 18, 19, 24, 28, 34, 47, 81, 88 Vida 39, 70 Willy Roth 56 Yael Designs 26 Yael Sonia 34, 47 Yang Lay 72 Yvel 24 Ziio 52 Zimmermann Design 42, 62 Zorab 34, 72 Zydo 36
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No 296 / Winter
- Trends Guide 2013
OPINIONS
WHAT PEOPLE ARE SAYING ABOUT CIJ TRENDS & COLOURS . . . Everything in our business today is based on gemstones, trends, and colours. How lucky can we be to have the magazine, CIJ Trends & Colours, to help us. The editor, Cynthia Unninayar, has introduced me to things I did not even know I was supposed to know about. Through her extensive travels and the information she brings back, she has broadened—by far—my knowledge of international jewellery designers that I never would have discovered by myself. As retailers, we get so caught up in daily things that it is time-consuming to keep up with the trends, but with CIJ Trends & Colours, we can be a step ahead. It is like an encyclopedia for the seasons of fashion and colour. The first editor to link Pantone colours to jewellery several years ago, Cynthia now goes a step further to bring us hundreds of pieces of fashionable jewellery that can be worn with these colours. She is like a detective, finding the next trend before it becomes evident. Clearly, she enjoys what she does, and I enjoy being a part of it when I read the magazine. I might add that, when I point out to a company that one of their images is in the magazine, they get very excited. CIJ Trends & Colours is the best friend an independent jeweller can have, and I look forward to each issue. – SANDIE ROUSSO, DAVID’S LTD JEWELERS, CHARLOTTE, NORTH CAROLINA
CIJ Trends & Colours is inspirational in finding the most unique jewellery designs while giving readers the suggestion on how to pair it with the newest fashions. I look forward to seeing what Cynthia and her team have discovered in each issue. – OLIVIA CORNELL, CORNELL’S JEWELERS, ROCHESTER, NEW YORK
As a retailer far away from a large city, I have to rely on the publications to keep me informed, up to date, and knowledgeable about the industry. The articles I read in CIJ Trends & Colours are incredibly well written, interesting, hit the subjects I enjoy reading about, and visually the photographs are fantastic. I look forward to getting each and every issue. – SUE EISEN, SUE EISEN FINE JEWELRY AND WATCHES, EL PASO, TEXAS
CIJ Trends & Colours is an indispensable guide on jewellery and trends. As a designer and retailer, I am always seeking great artistic visuals and find myself filled with inspiration after reading the magazine. We also use CIJ Trends & Colours as a design tool in our stores, and it has aided the staff in thinking creatively about the use of colour and the vast style options they can pull from the articles when consulting with clients. We love it! – MICHAEL ENDLICH, FOUNDER/DESIGNER, PAVÉ FINE JEWELRY, OAKLAND, CALIFORNIA
A life without art is a life without love. At Kevin Main Jewelry, we are committed to finding that perfect piece for each customer, something they can fall in love with. This would be impossible without the creative layouts of CIJ Trends & Colours to lean upon. Thank you CIJ Trends & Colours for your leadership in the industry. – KEVIN MAIN, KEVIN MAIN JEWELRY, SAN LUIS OBISPO, CALIFORNIA
CIJ Trends & Colours is very inspiring and informative. It gives us a global view of the upcoming and current jewellery designs and trends. It also bridges jewellery to the world of fashion, and this essential information really helps us, the retailers, to better relate to today’s savvy consumers. We look forward to every issue. – LISA WONG, TIVOLI JEWELS, SAN GABRIEL,CALIFORNIA 90
COMPLETE CUT. THE IDEAL RELATIONSHIP DESERVES THE IDEAL DIAMOND. Hearts & Arrows Ideal Cut Diamonds are created from the finest diamond roughs available — cut to the strictest ideal proportions, and finished with perfect symmetry and polish. Through the pavilion, each diamond reveals a circle of hearts. And through the crown, it showcases eight symmetrical arrows. This display confirms the brilliant fire and perfect size, shape, and contrast of the stone’s 58 facets.
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