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C O N T E N T
# 04
EDITORIAL
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ISSUE STREET
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EDITORIAL
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# 05 issue j u l y
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Submission By July 10 Info@enmodemagazine.com
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c o n t r i b u t o r s
FOUNDER
CO-DIRECTOR
PHOTOR EDITOR
brian dean
siddick mohamed
sarah seneque
FASHION EDITOR
FASHION EDITOR
FASHION EDITOR
alexandra isaacs
ivica mamedy
annelise ramooloo
PHOTOGRAPHER
PHOTOGRAPHER
khatleen minerve
ekaterina belinskaya
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I N T E R N A T I O N A L
M O D E
mohamed ali for louis vuitton
Following in the footsteps of Angelina Jolie, three-time world heavyweight boxing champion, Muhammad Ali has been revealed as the latest star of Louis Vuitton’s ‘Core Values’ campaign.
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Source: www.fashiontelegraph.co.uk
‘We are honoured that he agreed to be photographed for the Core Values campaign, and delighted with the way this beautiful portrait of the champion and his grandson captures the idea of transmission, which is of great significance to Louis Ali, who was crowned ‘Sportsman of the Century’ by Sports Il- Vuitton.” lustrated in 1999, was photographed by Annie Leibovitz at his Core Values celebrates Vuitton’s timeless classics in real situahome in Arizona, watching one of his grandsons who wears a tions on ‘real’ people - meaning celebrities rather than models pair of boxing gloves. The tagline reads: “Some stars show you - and runs alongside their seasonal ‘fashion’ campaigns. The most recent campaign images feature Angelina Jolie reclinthe way. Muhammad Ali and a rising star. Phoenix, Arizona.” Ali, now 70, defeated every top heavyweight in his era, which ing on a wooden boat in Cambodia - the country she fell in love with, and adopted her son Maddox from, after filming of Lara is widely regarded as the golden age of heavyweight boxing. Croft: Tomb Raider there in 2000. He was involved in some of the greatest bouts in boxing history, including the “Fight of the Century” against arch rival Joe Frazier at Madison Square Garden in 1971, and the “Rumble U2 frontman Bono and his wife Ali Hewson in Africa, where the couple have long campaigned for the fight against extreme in the Jungle” in Zaire in 1974, when he regained his world title from George Foreman. poverty, and actor Sean Connery photographed on a beach near his home in the Bahamas. Previous ‘faces’ of the campaign include Vuitton favourite His unorthodox boxing style - which he famously described Sofia Coppola and her father Francis Ford Coppola sitting in as “float[ing] like a butterfly, sting[ing] like a bee” - brought unprecedented grace and speed to the heavyweight category. the Buenos Aires countryside, Rolling Stone Keith Richards in a hotel suite with a Louis Vuitton guitar case; U2 frontman Since retiring from the sport in 1981, Ali has remained an active public figure, as both a humanitarian and an outspoken Bono and his wife Ali Hewson in Africa, where the couple have long campaigned for the fight against extreme poverty; actor political campaigner, despite being diagnosed with ParkinSean Connery photographed on a beach near his home in the son’s disease in 1984. Bahamas; and former President of the Soviet Union, and Nobel “Muhammad Ali is the epitome of an outstanding personality Peace Prize winner, Mikhail Gorbachev, in the back of a limo - a true living legend in boxing and far beyond,” Yves Carcelle, passing the remaining part of the Berlin Wall. Chairman and CEO of Louis Vuitton, said in a statement.
The “Short Suit”: Jason Wu, Oscar de la Renta, Reed Krakoff, Proenza Schouler. Resort collections are something I’m really starting to look forward to every year. They’re laidback, (usually) more wearable, and are pretty seasonless—looks run the gamut from nautical and safari to leather and fur. The “Short Suit” isn’t really a short suit, but it plays off that idea. It’s a fun jacket thrown over a button-down shirt paired with a cropped bottom. It’s a super playful look that works from the Upper East Sider wearing Oscar to the Downtown girl wearing Proenza. This is definitely a look that will be invading my wardrobe!
Muted Feminine: Chloe, Reed Krakoff. Chloe is the definition of muted feminine: pretty silk pants, floaty tops, and long shorts all in muted neutral and pink tones. Similar colors done in minimalist shapes were just as pretty from Reed
The Downtown Blues: Theyskens’ Theory, Proenza Schouler, Theyskens’ Theory, 10 Crosby Derek Lam.
RESORT 2013: THE “SHORT SUIT” MUTED PRINT MIXING, VESTED
Print Mixing: Erdem, Fendi, Marc Jacobs. Continuing with our Resort 2013 favorites,totally digging the color palette at Fendi. Pale yellow pumps have never looked so chic. They balance out the fun print mix and woven leather pixeled tote. Last, but certainly not least, Marc’s crazy floral hoop skirts. What more is there to say?
Vested Interest: Givenchy, Acne, Prabal Gurung, Derek Lam.
Mucho Monochrome: Celine, Stella McCartney, The Row, Calvin Klein.
FEMININE & THE DOWNTOWN BLUES INTEREST, AND MUCHO MONOCHROME
Source: www.styluste.com
Monochrome and minimalism seem to be trends that have continued from basically the beginning of time. They really haven’t slowed down. Add in that matching croc bag for the luxe effect. Mucho, mucho monochrome.
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creative door
Jen Kao Pre-Spring 2013 Collection
From 27 june to 5 July will be held The Menswear SS13 Collections and Womenswear SS13 Pre Collections And Accessories.This event will take place in a private premises of 720 m2 in the center of Paris where art, fashion and photography will gather to expose their brand new collections. Several luxury brands will be present like Avelon, Nanthalat Superated to show their Men SS13 collections. In terms of accessories, the brand BOYY, created by Jesse Dorsay and Wannasiri Kongman will be present with Lala Berlin, Linn Lomo, Maria Nilsdotter and the jewelery brand Scho. While the American fashion designer Jen Kao, will reveal its Pre-spring 2013 collections
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twin peaks
Since Raf Simons and Hedi Slimane took the creative reins at Dior and Saint Laurent, respectively, the fashion press has been trying to paint them as rivals. Not so fast, says our guest columnist Markus Ebner. The Achtung magazine founder, who has followed both men since the beginning of their careers, argues that they are less competitors than joint leaders of a new design generation. As Simons prepares to make his Dior Couture debut next week, Ebner charts the connection between these two innovators. Fashion loves a rivalry. Unforgettable are the days when Yves Saint Laurent and Karl Lagerfeld used to battle it out to be fashion’s number one in Paris. Journalist Alicia Drake spun a whole book out of this circumstance called The Beautiful Fall. It is still a must-read on the goings-on of fashion in the French capital in the sixties and seventies. At the moment, the international fashion press seems hell-bent on creating the same type of rivalry between Raf Simons and Hedi Slimane.
This idea has surfaced in articles on the nomination of both designers to their new jobs at Dior and YSL, respectively. The key one was penned in April by the influential critic Suzy Menkes of the International Herald Tribune, who got the succession at Saint Laurent wrong one year ago when she predicted Simons going to YSL. Cathy Horyn, the fashion critic from IHT stable mate The New York Times and a longtime Simons champion, also shares the idea of a battle between the two. To enforce the rivalry point, Menkes even suggests in her story that Slimane took his lead from Simons at the end of the nineties, when both were working on their signature slick tailoring silhouette. And yet, in her show reviews of Dior Homme in the first half of the last decade, she always celebrated Slimane as an originator. Now everyone from Le Monde’s magazine M in France to the blogs are jumping on the rivalry idea. I would like to make a point that Hedi Slimane and Raf Simons are not rivals but are united by being the leaders of a new generation of designers.
They are much more ambassadors of a new approach to fashion, of seeing the bigger picture versus one dress or a piece of fabric. Sure, it’s tempting and headline-making to pit them against each other now that they’re helming two of Paris’ most prestigious houses, but it does them a disservice. First of all, they were friends at the start of their careers and would have a glass of wine together in Paris every now and then. From the very beginning, Slimane has stood for a stylized reality. When I moved back to Berlin from New York to start Achtung, he had already mined the best of the German capital’s visual arsenal and published a book with Steidl called Berlin. The book featured fantastic photos of young punks and wasted youth all in black-and-white. At the time, Slimane would go to music and nightclubs to find his models for Dior Homme. All of Berlin talked about these famous casting sessions and most kids and young male models hoped to be chosen. Meanwhile, Raf Simons was finding a lot of inspiration in Berlin. He even named his first company Detlef after a character from the teen drug movie Wir Kinder vom Bahnhof Zoo. So these designers are informed by the same cultural signposts but have a different approach in filtering them.
Source: www. style.com
Both are members of the postmodern movement, a generation that grew up just before the Internet revolution. But they›re still young enough to be comfortable finding inspiration in a myriad of cultural interests that they source from the Web. Let›s not forget, Saint Laurent had to get on a plane to go to Studio 54 and see what was happening
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daria bardeeva Brand symbol is the flower of peony with a bud. It symbolizes nobility and greatness. This meaning comes from time immemorial when only few people could afford having this flower in their gardens. Only a person who gained his wealth, worship and high social rank by his own labor would plant a peony. This flower was valued so high at those times that it was worth its weight in gold. Also peony symbolizes Love and Beauty, it is bearer of pure Yan energy. Peonies may be of all variety of wonderful colors but according to fend shui it is red peony that embody Love that’s why it’s particularly valuable. Clothing by Daria Bardeeva is created for noble women who love life, appreciate beauty and want only the best! In her collections Daria uses the best natural tissues, and quality of each piece of clothing will bring pleasure to the most hard-to-please customers because the best tailors sew each dress manually! Philosophy of brand «Daria Bardeeva» is elegance, comfort and quality of execution. Daria is one of few Russian designers who was recognized by Munich Academy of Fashion and Design (AMD). Currently she runs her own fashion house and show-room in the center of Moscow, develops her own brand “Daria Bardeeva” and prepares to enter European market. Main areas of activity for brand “Daria Bardeeva” are: •Selling through multi-brands trading networks •Working with show-rooms •Presentations on fashion events •Development of own wedding collection •Manufacture of cocktail and evening dresses After brand “Daria Bardeeva” appeared on the market, a lot of successful people – businessmen, stars of sport and show business, musical and other creative teams – became its loyal customers.
Main element of brand “Daria Bardeeva” is everything about form. Creation of individual accurate cut ensures excellent fit to all types of figure. May be this is the reason why in most collections the preference is given to quiet and single-color fabrics. Elegance and sense of style as well as singularity and quality of execution are distinctive features of clothes by Daria Bardeeva. Direct cooperation of fashion house “Daria Bardeeva” with major suppliers of tissues and fittings from leading brands of Italy, France, Japan and Great Britain allows to fulfill orders with maximum quality and at the earliest possible date. Besides it affects significantly the cost of complete product. Affordable prices are one of pleasant surprises for fashion house’s clients. In show-room “Daria Bardeeva” you can not only purchase clothes from ready-made collections but also make an individual order.
d a r i a b a r d e e v a L O O K B O O K S/S 2013
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GRACE HAMILTON 1. How did you start? I began creating these sculptural accessories just over two years ago while I was studying Embroidery at Manchester school of Art. I struggled to find what I was best at, and really feel that it found me. I began by creating crocheted shapes intended for small scale installations which naturally developed into making these forms that focused more on the body. Created using hand dyed yarns and meticulously crocheted. Inspired by the natural world, and finding inspiration in the most unlikely places; the sculptural shapes found in a crate of Eels at Billingsgate Fish market in London was the initial inspiration for my graduate collection. I am still also still strongly influenced by the vibrancy and rich culture of my time in East Africa and love for contemporary sculpture and photography. 2. How to describe your style? Handcrafted, Simplistic yet fashion forward, Bold yet sophisticated, timeless yet unique. 3. Is there a message in your creation? To challenge peoples perceptions of traditional craft techniques. 4. Tell us about your experiences? After my Graduate collection I spent time experimenting and developing my work. I have taken part in several small exhibitions, I was a finalist for the the Textile Awards in 2010 and exhibited as a graduate at The Great Northern Contemporary Craft Fair and recently at Treasure during London Jewellery week at Somerset House. I have had work published in magazines such as Haute Magazine, L’Autre, Papercut Magazine and some not yet released. 5. What are your future project and where to get your creations? I have just finished Treasure which was part of London Jewellery week where I showcased my spring summer collection, the biggest show I have done to date so at the moment I am taking some time to figure out my next move. My pieces are stocked on Boticca.com and I am currently looking for some stockists.
G R A C E H A M I L T O N L O O K B O O K S/S 2013
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NADIA DAFRI Nadia Dafri is originally from Avignon. She spent her childhood in a boarding house where clothing, sad and interchangeable ends to erase individuality. As soon released from the institution, the girl never ceases to assert his personality. Clothes became his mode of expression, sewing her way. Her accomplishments earned her many bold mockery. She cares. It is finally visible. Actually teaching, Nadia Dafri divides her time between high schools in the Ile de France and many trips that satisfy her taste for otherness. In Africa, at a market stall, she marvels at the generosity of colors and patterns of wax. It is in this tissue it tries, soon, to reproduce a necklace. Soon she derives from the original discrete model to create a large breastplate, to the well said. Combining the visual power of large asymmetrical compositions in the delicate caress of textiles Nadia Dafri reveals the beautiful souls. Her jewelry, sculptural, as they expose and protect invite everyone to affirm its unique and valuable presence in the world. Nothing could be further from the fashion trends that these bright fronts that evoke the ornaments with which to honor the gods and the wise men, the heroes and sages. Rather than decorative accessories, Nadia Dafri creates distinctions. Objects that encourage those who are parents to raise their heads. If they instill strength, it is also because they require a certain dignity. Nadia Dafri operates a range of fabrics, in which the wax has a special place. Her inspiration, she finds around the world where it selects objects that reflect the diversity of lifestyles. Later, material, color or shape will connect these heterogeneous elements. It’s time to pull the thread.  All creations of Nadia Dafri are sewn by hand in workshops that are also places of rebuilding selfesteem. Thus the creative orchestra she explosions of color and shapes that joyously celebrate our differences.
NADIA DAFRI
LOOKBOOK
2013
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aurelie bouic The Powerhouse Aurelie Bouic’s name carries tremendous weight in the Mauritian fashion industry. Along with Laetitia Tonta, she is the director of Carrera Model Management, the most reputable agency in Mauritius. Style Mauritius’ Alexandra Webber Isaacs catches up with the woman credited with bringing standards and a high sense of professionalism to modelling in Mauritius. There are few people I have profound respect for in this business, and one of them is Aurelie Bouic. The 25 year old is a fighter, a leader, an over-achiever, and fiercely intelligent. She is credited with having the best contracts, the best standards, the best ethics. She was encouraged back in 2008 to open her agency. “I worked as a model, and was encouraged to set something up for models as at the time, there were numerous problems with other agencies. There were many things that could be improved, new ideas Contracts are one of the core foundations of any job, were being generated, and I thought that I could modelling isn’t an exception. Carrera’s contracts are try and see what I could do.” Her father, Jocelyn famous precisely because they are rock solid. No-one Fayolle, is a very well-known wedding and portrait can exploit either the model or the agency; there are photographer and helped Aurelie to set up the no loopholes, no nonsense. One of the safest conagency by creating modelling portfolios. Carrera was to raise the local modelling bar much higher. It tracts any model could wish signing. “We contacted accomplished this objective, but it required a lot of accountants, lawyers…Brian Burns (Chief Executive Officer of Iframac Ltd) was very helpful, he finalised hard work. the contracts.” She sends the contract a few days before the job, so the model understands and has “I scouted in schools and on the street, visited time to read the contract carefully, and then he/she shopping malls, took the contact details of all either prints it out and sends it signed by post, or those I thought had potential.” This is lasted six months to a year, before the agency was complete- gives it to Aurelie and Laetitia on the day of the job. ly set up and ready to start business. It was Aurelie Their method of payment is greatly beneficial to the model: who scouted two of the best models in Mauritius, Laetitia Darche (who recently appeared in Cos60% of the revenue goes to the model, 40% to the mopolitan India) and Raquel Rault. “I organised agency. free photo shoots, each model was given a book containing about ten photos or so.” Having signed Aurelie speaks highly of Publico Creative Ltd, a comand taken care of her models, she then turned to munications agency which respects copyright laws company and legal matters. She dealt with web and graphic designers (the Carrera Model Manage- and other laws relating to image use. Carrera Model Management and Publico Creative work closely toment Agency website is by far the best of all the gether on numerous projects. “It’s rewarding to work local agency websites), and worked on a pricing system which conforms to international standards. with Publico, they are so professional and really give us a great budget that we can work on.” All aspects of the agency were considered.
This is in fact one of the reasons she works with other communication agencies on an “on and off” basis: she expects that a company will be able to pay the agency and the models to the required standard. She accepts no less, which is exceptional: she could have made a lot of money by collectively banking on all the smaller, badly-paid contracts that come her way, but instead chooses to reject those that don’t meet her standards. Aurelie and Laetitia are devoting more time to Carrera Events, and no longer provide hostesses or models for runway shows unless it’s for an exceptional client that wants something of very high quality. “I am a perfectionist. When preparing for a show, for example, you have to calculate the time and manner of the walk, which must be co-ordinated with the music, and the whole thing must be rehearsed several times.” She was disappointed that usually, most organisers don’t really have a clue that all these elements are primordial for a good show. “We concentrate much more on photo shoots now. We work with lots of hotels, our models are the type of people they look for. We also work commercial brands.” But it’s not all just business. Aurelie is always there, dedicated to her models, nearly always there with them on the job. “The only times we are unable to be with them is if really it is impossible, such as when there are numerous shoots going on in different parts of the island.” Even then, the directors are constantly updated on what’s happening. “We really make sure that all our models know exactly what they have to prepare for before working. We send them messages and e-mails (that they can always refer to, unlike telephone calls) detailing what they have to bring, what they have to prepare, and all the possible details of the job involved.” That way, the model will always be prepared. And if not – “We usually bring a suitcase filled with things needed for the shoot, just in case!” Food is always provided. “Naturally, we offer lunch and/or dinner!” Aurelie and Laetitia also know how to treat their models; they work naturally together as friends, but if a problem arises, it will only be after the job that they will speak privately to the model and explain what she did wrong – always calmly, professionally. “Laetitia and I swore never to have any tantrums or let our emotions get the better of us!”
Aurelie has had to fight hard. Things have turned even more difficult since mid- 2011: “Now, communication agencies do not budget for models. Instead of paying the models in terms of how much time their image will be used, they pay for a day’s work. I understand their logic, but it isn’t fair - it’s the model’s image that will be used, after all!” Modelling is still considered as a hobby, not as a serious job. “What made things worse was that communication agencies stopped looking for models and settled with any person that fit the image they were looking for. Mauritius is a small island. That’s the reason why you have so many people proclaiming themselves as models.” There was even a time when Aurelie thought of closing the agency. “Basically, we were faced with two options. Either we close, or we fight and continue to deal with the agencies to the best of our abilities.” They have recently worked with Sun Resorts for a massive shoot – 20 days of shooting in total, involving 28 models. All of whom greatly enjoyed the experience (who wouldn’t?) Carrera Model Management is a powerhouse, one which will only keep expanding with Aurelie Bouic at its helm.
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what on earth is happening to our industry? After the boom of last year, I firmly believed that You know what makes it worse? things would keep on increasing - designers would quickly be able to build up on their reputations (and The fact that designers are rushing out, freshly some did!), there would be more fashion shows, graduated, with no experience, no know-how, and more positive energy, more everything! don’t know what to do. The fact that amateur photographers are taking And then, after the Bank One show, things fell flat. money away from the professionals by claiming they After that beautiful show, where three amazingly have equal talent, and some not knowing in which talented designers showcased their work, to start field they belong to. the year right. There were some events - the In’Am fashion Show at the C Beach Club, the Safire Fund- The fact that fashion magazines being produced raiser, both which were very successful. that show a lack of artistic direction and Yet I was gearing up for something bigger, events experience. with more coverage and more exposure. The fact that most models in this country have no bloody idea what the job even means and requires, Such as: and these competitions and what not are making things worse. Women are being given articles in A fashion show where our current designers shownewspapers describing them as models when this case their latest collections. Like the International is clearly not the case. Fashion Extravaganza, but only including locals, and the standard set to something more profesThe fact that people either take fashion as a joke, sional. You can’t hire every girl in Mauritius that or try and cash in on it without even thinking that claims to be a model (so many freelancers!I swear their total lack of standards and propriety are harmyou would never think we had any employment ing the industry. problem here whatsoever if you based yourself only on Facebook job descriptions). Since Fashion Industry: The Evolution (Part 1) I have been increasingly frustrated that there is A graduate fashion week. I heard that something hardly any evolution. like that happened at UOM, but whatever it was, it did not receive sufficient coverage and let’s be hon- There are however a few things that I am excited est - who will buy what you create if people don’t about: know you are a designer in the first place? Sweetie Ramlagun will launch her label “77” later A sort of local labels fashion show: Apart from on this year. Here’s a woman who has both a sharp designers,we need to know what other shops (pref- business and artistic sensibility, who has successerably local) have to offer! fully established Possal by Sweetie Ramlagun last year and is spreading her wings. It’s almost like people think fashion is a fad. A thing of 2011. “Let’s move on to serious things now The continued progress and evolution of most of people.” our photographers. Some are experimenting with different techniques, composition, framing, with incredible results.
ASOS launches a capsule collection with B Store The summer capsule collection, available in the shops of B Store and online on ASOS since early May, entails 9 pieces (including a pair of wedges heels) and highlights two prints: a summery palm leaf print inspired by the town of Palm Springs, and a repeat of geometric shapes on a striped Oxford base. The summer capsule collection, available in the shops of B Store and online on ASOS since early May, entails 9 pieces (including a pair of wedges heels) and highlights two prints: a summery palm leaf print inspired by the town of Palm Springs, and a repeat of geometric shapes on a striped Oxford base. Spring/Summer 2012 capsule collection. It is not a first for ASOS to partner up for a collection. Far from that. But it is the first time that the British retailer – that also serves as a fashion hub for global online shopping that regroups numerous brands – will be spreading out its own name on its shelves, so to say.
As a matter of fact, the latest collaboration between ASOS and B Store aligns with the latter’s new concept boutique on Kingley Street in London. Specializing in niche markets, B Store is a British brand whose inspiration lies in art, music and movies from the seventies in Berlin, and even in post-punk bands of the eighties as in the likes of Joy Division.
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model - Elithabeth J (IQmodels.ru) muah - Nastya Khrycheva
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Are you looking for a way of preventing winter from affecting your mood ? it is scientifically prooved that colours play with your state of mind ! So dress in lively colours ! Blue , for example , was a favorite colour of the impressionist painters, who used it not just to depict nature but to create moods, feelings and astmospheres . Prepare your wardrobe to welcome more of Blue then ! whether you prefer a little hint of it on your outfit or using it as a statement is up to you
Electric Blue and Turquoise Blue seem to be the Most Wanted these days .
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