Living with wood ld r o w r e t t e b a r o F
www.nzwood.co.nz
foreword
When you build, renovate, or change the way your home looks you’re taking control and choosing to make a difference to your world. If you use timber to achieve your dreams, you’ll also be making a positive difference to the environment. Wood is the ultimate sustainable building material. As a tree grows it removes and stores carbon dioxide from the air, helping to reduce carbon levels in the atmosphere. This means it’s actually good for the environment to cut down trees. Young trees remove the most carbon dioxide as they grow. Harvesting and using the timber locks away the carbon and prevents its release back into the atmosphere. And replanting the forest continues the cycle of removal and storage. (Of course this is only the case for trees from a sustainably managed forest, not from a rainforest). The more wood we use, the more trees are planted and the more carbon is removed from the atmosphere. So when you’re using timber from sustainably managed forests, you’re not only creating a beautiful environment to live in, you’re helping the planet and creating a better world for your children and grandchildren.
Change your world Build with wood
contents
ndation introduction: knowledge fou
02
framing: inner strength and beauty
10
cladding: more than meets the eye
eer beauty h s : y d u t s e s a c of the home interior: the heart
14
20 22
case study: making room for family
36
outdoors: room to breathe
38
case study: the suburban retrea t tting down roots pu : n o ti va o en R + g buildin
Resources
44 46
56
timber talk
Knowledge
Foundation
naturally better Before you start your building project it’s worth taking some time to get to know wood a little better. Wood is an ingenious invention of nature. It’s a strong and light-weight building material and it creates a stunning environment to live in. Wood is a popular choice for New Zealand architects, designers and builders because it’s easy to work with and produces a warm and welcoming home. Photo taken by Julian Apse
timber talk
The right fit Wood allows architects and designers to create a structure that works in harmony with New Zealand’s beautiful landscape. Wood fits into any environment and allows an architect or designer to create a unity between the building and its surroundings. Wood is a feast for the senses – you can touch it, smell it and feel it. It’s warm, natural and a pleasure to be around. Timber is incredibly adaptable and works aesthetically with many other building materials. There are also a range of oils, stains and paints that allow you to add a unique finish. If you can choose a natural finish for end-use, as the wood ages and matures the colour deepens to create an even more stunning visual effect.
“Mahurangi West Road House” courtesy of GN2 Design
Durability and Versatility
Taking the temperature
When well looked after, wooden structures can last many lifetimes. The fact that wooden buildings around the world have survived for hundreds of years is a testament to the durability of wood.
We all want to be warm and cosy in the winter and cool in the summer. We expect our homes to provide us with a comfortable environment, whatever the weather.
When you build with wood it is straight-forward to make changes – during the building process or many years later. It’s easy and cost-effective to add and remove wooden structures and features as you and your family change and grow.
We spend a lot of money heating, cooling and lighting our homes. With an energy efficient home you’ll be able to lower the bills. Wood is a natural insulator with good thermal retention. It can perform significantly better than many building materials in terms of energy efficiency.
Wood Fact Producing timber uses less energy, produces lower greenhouse gas emissions and lower air pollution than other building materials.
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A Hot Topic: thermal performance
As a building material timber gives a high thermal performance for several reasons:
The way that a building is rated for its ability to keep us comfortable is called ‘thermal performance’. A building’s thermal performance is measured by the thermal comfort of occupants, the capacity of heating, ventilation and air conditioning equipment and the energy used by that equipment.
Low Thermal Conductivity
Thermal performance is dependent on the structural design of a building (materials and geometry) and other inter-related factors. Wall, floor and roof constructions all have a significant effect on a building’s thermal performance.
Significant Volumetric Heat Capacity
Today’s architect uses sophisticated building simulation tools to design structures that give a high thermal performance and model the complex relationship between building materials.
Compared with other structural materials timber has low thermal conductivity, which is an advantage when designing a building envelope with a high resistance to heat flow.
Timber has significant volumetric heat capacity, which can be used to provide a building with thermal mass. This can reduce energy use and improve thermal comfort by absorbing and storing heat from the indoors, then releasing it back later. Moisture Absorption Capacity Timber can absorb moisture, which helps to reduce fluctuations in indoor humidity. This improves perceived air quality and occupant health, as well as thermal performance. 5
timber talk
Getting
started DIY success With any DIY project, there is a series of steps you can go through to make sure you get successful results. If you’re tackling the job yourself you can follow this process to make sure you get it right. Step One: Pick a site. Step Two: Make a drawing. The larger the project, the more details you need. Step Three: Get equipped. Always choose the correctly treated timber for the job. Remember to carefully choose your fasteners such as nails and bolts, for example you’ll need galvanised ones for Hazard Class treated timber, and stainless steel bolts near the sea. Step Four: Construct. Preparation is the key to a smooth project. Get the site ready first and have your equipment and materials to hand. Step Five: Finish. Choose a paint, oil or stain that will lengthen the life of the wood and suits your setting. Step Six: Step back and admire your handywork!
The right treatment Timbers for framing and structural work are treated with a range of preservatives, at different concentrations, to give different levels of durability. Wood preservative treatments are often referred to in terms of the ‘Hazard Class’, this indicates the level of treatment and is easily identified by the colour coding of the timber or the branding. The building code advises which Hazard Class treated timbers can be used and where. For more information on timber treatment, visit: www.nztpc.co.nz The Hazard Class can be marked on the timber in a number of ways: Strip coding: the hazard class is indicated by lettering pressed into the wood along the length of the piece of timber, or printed in ink along the side of the timber. Burn Branding: the hazard class is burnt by a branding iron into the end grain of each piece of timber. Labels: labels are stapled on to the end of each piece of timber.
A wood first: the forestry accord In 1991 an historic agreement was signed in New Zealand by the forestry industry and environmental organisations. The Forest Accord states that existing native forest will be protected from any development involving exotic plantation forests, and that commercial forests are an essential place of renewable fibre and energy. 6 www.nzwood.co.nz
Types of preservatives
5) LOSP
1) Synthetic Pyrethroids
Light Organic Solvent Preservative (LOSP) is the term for a preservative which is applied in a hydrocarbon solvent (white spirit). Synthetic pyrethroids, IPBC (iodocarb), tributyl tin (TBT) compounds, copper naphthenate and azoles (propiconazole and tebuconazole) are all used in LOSP formulations.
Cypermethrin, deltamethrin and permethrin protect from wood borers and are used in Hazard Class H1.1, H1.2, they can also be used for H3.1. 2) Borates Boron preservatives are water-based and ‘non fixed’. They are very effective against wood borers, termites and decay fungi. The concentration of borate increases for each Hazard Class; H1.1, H1.2, H3.1. 3) CCA Copper chromium arsenate (CCA) is the only preservative that can be used for all Hazard Classes. It has been used successfully for many years and is the preferred and most cost effective preservative for H3.2 to H6 Hazard Classes. 4) Copper Azole and Alkaline Copper Quaternary Copper azole (CuAz) and copper quaternary (ACQ) are also water based and are used as an alternative to CCA. They are very resistant to leaching so are suitable in ground contact situations, or where the treated timber is constantly exposed to the weather.
LOSPs are often formulated with water repellent additives (waxes and resins), which act to ‘bind’ the chemicals to the wood, helping to keep the active ingredients in place once the carrier solvent evaporates. LOSPs are generally used for Hazard Classes H1.1, H1.2 and H3.1. Copper naphthenate is the only LOSP approved for use to H3.2. The combination of propiconazole, tebuconazole and permethrin is gaining wide acceptance as a replacement for TBT treatments.
Timber Tip
If you are using timber (trtaeaketed or untreated) you should ng precautions to avoid inhali machine wood dust, so cut, sand or s to timber outside. Wear glove fety protect your hands and sawood glasses or goggles to stop es. dust getting into your ey 7
timber talk
Know Your
Timber
Here’s a quick rundown of some of the exotic and indigenous timber species in New Zealand. Once you know exactly where and what you’re building you can choose the wood that will look right and perform well in your chosen spot.
All the woods listed here are sustainably grown and harvested in New Zealand.
RADIATA PINE
Radiata pine is the mostly widely-grown plantation timber species in New Zealand and can be used for many applications. It is extremely versatile, suitable for use inside and out. It can be treated to ensure that its durability and strength meet the criteria for its use. The heartwood of radiata pine is an even light brown to chestnut brown in colour and the sapwood is creamy white. Products such as plywood, medium density fibreboard (MDF) laminated veneer lumber, and glue-laminated timber are also available. Radiata which has been kiln dried but not chemically treated is resistant to insect attack.
DOUGLAS-FIR
This timber is known for its superior strength, toughness and durability, which makes it an excellent choice for framing. As well as being popular for framing, larger pieces can be used for exposed interior posts because of its stability and freedom from twisting. It can be treated with Boron to H1.2 standard It is easily identified by prominent growth ring bands between the early and late wood. The heartwood is a pinkish brown colour and the sapwood is near-white.
MACROCARPA
Uses: roof trusses, framing, internal panelling, glue-laminated beams. Untreated timber: The Douglas-fir Association has a range of ideas for alternative solutions. Visit: www.douglasfir.co.nz
Exterior uses include: weatherboard, fascia, pergolas, decking, outdoor furniture.
Macrocarpa is honey brown in colour and beautifully scented.
Interior uses: ceiling sarking, exposed beams, flooring, wall panelling, framing, furniture, solid wood bench tops, architraves, skirtings.
The three main types of eucalyptus timber in New Zealand are the blue gum group, the stringybark group and the ash group – each with a different look and different uses. The heartwood of the blue gum group such as eucalyptus saligna is dark pink to reddish brown with a paler sapwood.
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Untreated it can be used for: furniture, mouldings, trim, panelling.
Macrocarpa is known for its similarity to iconic kauri timber. The heatwood is naturally resistant to insect and fungal attacks and in some instances, can be used externally in its natural state. It is not recommended for in-ground construction projects, such as below ground posts for fencing, decking and pergolas.
EUCALYPTUS SALIGNA
Treated radiata pine can be used for: decking, fencing, exterior cladding, window sashes, pergolas, landscaping, exterior trim.
Uses: tongue and groove flooring, in-sequence parquet, overlay, stairs, doors, furniture, panelling, decking, outdoor furniture, sliced veneer.
Heartwood and Sapwood Heartwood is from the centre of the tree and sapwood is younger timber from the outside of the tree, nearer the bark. Heartwood tends to be more naturally durable and is immune to the common house borer, and in some species to decay fungi. All sapwood is classed as perishable if in the ground. Supplies of native species can often be limited due to restrictions on harvesting. Visit the NZ Wood website to find suppliers of these timber species: www.nzwood.co.nz/suppliers
SILVER BEECH
Heartwood and sapwood can also differ in colour, with heartwood tending to be a deeper, richer colour. Heartwood from native species, such as rimu, is highly prized for furniture and joinery because it gives an attractive finish.
Silver beech is sourced from sustainably managed forests and is becoming the favoured wood to replace rimu as the prime native species. A fine, even texture and red colouring make it an attractive furniture timber, and when french-polished it can resemble mahogany. The colour of silver beech varies with location and age, and between the sapwood and heartwood, but it always has a pinkish to red overtone. The dry sapwood is a light pinkish grey, and the heartwood pinkish brown, slightly darker than heartwood totara.
RED BEECH
Red beech is suitable for interior joinery and flooring. As a flooring timber, it has an attractive lustre and is significantly harder and more resistant to impact than alternative softwood species, such as rimu.
It is unsuitable for outdoor applications, but the timber can be used for interior and indoor furniture untreated. Uses: turnery, cabinetry, brushes, dowels.
Uses: stair treads, flooring, joinery.
The dry heartwood is a light to medium red-brown colour. The sapwood is light brown to white with grey, brown and green tones.
TAWA
Tawa is an excellent furniture timber. Its strength makes it suitable for handles and rods, and it is very good for turnery across the grain such as in door knobs.
Uses: furniture, turnery, handles, joinery, panelling.
Tawa can be used to add a finishing flourish using the contrast between colourations to good effect. Timber colour varies from whitish, to pale shades of brown often with pinkish tint.
RIMU
Rimu is one of the most popular native timbers. Because it was used extensively in older character homes as both a structural and finishing timber, it is probably New Zealand’s best known native species. Rimu is a very versatile and exceptionally beautiful timber.
Uses: exterior joinery, flooring. Sapwood is ideal for furniture and internal finishings like panelling and moulding.
Heartwood is usually a red-brown colour with golden yellow tones. Sapwood is a more uniform lighter brown colour.
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framing
inner
strength and beauty
Structural integrity The frame is the skeleton which supports and shapes the structure. Whether you’re building a deck, a gazebo or an entire house, timber is a strong and durable choice that offers flexibility and the opportunity to develop a creative design. Using wood, you can turn the framing into a feature, with exposed timber beams and joists. Or you can take the more traditional approach and use the timber as the core that sits under other finishing materials.
Photo taken by Julian Apse
framing “Mahurangi West Road House� courtesy of GN2 Design
core value Wood is an economical construction and finishing material. With timber, alterations are straightforward and cost effective. Timber frames are lightweight and strong, easy to assemble, require few tools and are familiar to New Zealand architects and builders. When properly designed to suit their location, timber-framed houses are able to handle bracing winds and strong enough to withstand common magnitude earthquakes with relatively little damage.
Using wood as your main building material for a 200m2 home, compared to using non-wood materials, will save over 20 tonnes of CO2
the equivalent of 91 return trips between auckland and wellington. Check your carbon savings online using the NZ Wood building materials carbon calculator: www.nzwwood.co.nz/calculators 12 www.nzwood.co.nz
20
tonnes CO2
sav e
making the grade Different species of wood have different qualities. Timber in New Zealand is graded according to its strength and load bearing properties. Timber is graded visually and through machine testing. Visual grading limits the size of knots and other visible features that will affect the wood’s strength and load-bearing properties. Machine testing measures the strength or stiffness of each board. When a piece of timber passes through the grading machine it is squirted with ink (different colours are used for different grades) and the grade is branded along the side of the wood.
Grade
Colour marks
Typical end-use
VSG8 (Dry No. 1 F)
Lintels, floor joists, roof beams, general framing and trusses.
G8 (Green No. 1 F)
Structures where moisture content at time of verification or in service may be 25% moisture content or over.
MSG8
Black
Lintels, floor joists, roof beams, general framing and trusses.
MSG6
Blue
Non load-bearing walls, truss webbing.
Which wood? New Zealand-grown Douglas-Fir and radiata pine are strong, durable and able to comfortably bear loads prescribed by the timber-framed building standards.
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cladding
more than meets the eye
Proper Protection Your home’s first line of defence against the weather is the outer skin or cladding. As well as playing a critical role in protecting your house, cladding can catch the eye and set the scene for what you might find inside.
“Platform House” photo taken by Victor Chia Courtesy of Strachan Group Architects
cladding
sav e
2.2
tonnes CO2
16 www.nzwood.co.nz
Using timber to clad a 200m2 house, compared to an alternative non-natural cladding, will save 2.2 tonnes of CO2
the same amount emitted by driving a car from Cape REinga to Bluff five times. Check your carbon savings online using NZ Wood building materials carbon calculator: www.nzwood.co.nz/calculators
weather
board “
I prefer to use timber, it’s been around forever and it’s easy to work with. Steve, Builder
”
There is a variety of different weatherboard options to choose from. They are available in different timbers, which can be used to create a different look and personality for your home.
Horizontal bevel-back
Horizontal rebated bevel-back
Horizontal rusticated
Vertical shiplap
For suppliers of timber weatherboard, visit NZ Wood website: www.nzwood.co.nz/suppliers
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cladding
The finishing touches
Well-treated
Once you have chosen the right cladding you need to decide how to finish it. As well as protecting the timber, the finish you choose can create a stunning exterior for your home. Weatherboards can be painted or, depending on the species of timber, they can be given a stained finish or left in their natural state.
Many timber species are naturally durable and resistant to insect attack and decay. Timbers such as heart macrocarpa can last up to 15 years untreated, and are permitted to have ‘no finish’ or a ‘stain finish’. Some timbers used commercially do require chemical treatment to help preserve the wood and lengthen its useful life.
There is now a wide range of clear or transluscent wood stain treatments which, as well as protecting the timber, also allow the grain to show through, enhancing its aesthetic qualities. Clear or tinted seal retains the look of the wood, allowing it to weather and mature naturally.
maintenance
Our natural assets: indigenous forests In New Zealand we are lucky enough to have indigenous forest covering over 6.4 million ha (or 24 percent) of our total land area. These natural jewels are now carefully managed and only limited amounts of indigenous timber are harvested. Timber from New Zealand's privately-owned native forests accounts for less than 0.1% of our total wood fibre production. 18 www.nzwood.co.nz
Different timbers have different levels of treatment for different uses. The building code recommends treatment standards for interior and exterior locations. If you are unsure what to use, your timber supplier will have information and your architect, designer or builder can also help. You’ll find more information on timber treatments on page 7.
The right timber with the right finish can last for many years without extra maintenance, and will protect your house and remain sealed from the elements. For example, properly treated weatherboards with a simple application of three coats of paint will not need re-painting for eight years.
plywood panel systems
Plywood panel systems are a natural, highly versatile and durable sheet cladding made from radiata pine. Proprietary products are available with a textured or grooved profile. Plywood can be finished with a natural stain or primed ready for painting, saving time and money.
Image courtesy of Carter Holt Harvey Wood Products
The 4Ds of weath
ertightness
When timber is used in enclosed frames it is important it is durable and able to handle all types of conditions. To make sure timber is fit for use in exter nal walls of buildings and meets building co ould be designed ac de cording to the 4Ds.
requirement, the build ing sh
Deflection – keep ing water away from potential entry po ints.
Drying – allowing an y remaining moisture to be removed by ven tilation or diffusion. Durability – provid ing materials with appropriate durability .
Drainage – providing means of removing water that do es enter. If a design follows the 4Ds and the materials are maintained in good remain weathertight. condition, it should If the timber is going to be exposed to mo you must choose eithe istu re or damp conditions r a preservative-treate d or naturally durable timber.
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case study Photos taken by Doublescoop Photography
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Sheer beauty Sheerwater Lakehouse, Kaipara
“
Wood is a ‘living’ material that moves and changes colour and texture over time. Simon, Architect
”
When architect Simon Twose was commissioned to build a house in an area of spectacular natural beauty, he realised he needed to design something pretty special. “The challenge was to build a house that nestled into the landscape and would become part of the environment,” explains Simon. The house acts as a viewing platform to experience stunning lake and rural surrounds. It is 'wrapped' in a timber skin which forms the cladding and soffits and continues inside as floor and sarking. The textures and colours of the skin allow the house to work with the landscape and become an integral part of it. “As the timber weathers over the years it will change colour depending on how exposed it is to the elements, allowing the house to become a natural part of its surroundings,” says Simon.
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interior
A space of your own Your home is your refuge from the world. You want it to be welcoming, comfortable and to reflect your personal style and taste. The interior of your home is your opportunity to stamp your mark and make a difference to your environment. Choosing the right materials for your windows, walls, fixtures and fittings will create the canvas for you to work with and create your haven. The natural warmth and beauty of timber combined with its versatility make it a useful material for your interior. Photo taken by Julian Apse
heart the
and soul of a home
interior
joinery Making a house a home
Which wood?
Joinery is the umbrella term used to describe wood fixtures and fittings inside your home from kitchen cabinets and vanity units to staircases and shelves and the fittings which bridge the interior and exterior like windows and doors. Timber joinery is timeless and highly versatile, complementing most architectural styles, from traditional Victorian and colonial to cutting edge contemporary designs. In either a new build or a refurbishment, the project will be enhanced by commissioning quality timber joinery.
Make sure you ask which timber is best for your situation because not all timber is suitable for joinery.
“Mission Bay House� photo taken by Patrick Reynolds Courtesy of Crosson Clarke Carnachan Architects
24 www.nzwood.co.nz
Some timber species may need extra treatment to make them more durable. Your master joiner will have the experience to know which timber is suitable in each location.
your home’s interior A cost-effective way to change appearance and increase value is to invest in timber mouldings. Mouldings can include vaulted ceilings, handrails, skirting boards and wainscot – boards and panelling on the lower part of a wall. For suppliers of timber mouldings and other interior timber products, visit: www.nzwood.co.nz/suppliers
The right approach Not all timber joinery is created equal, so choosing the supplier of your new timber joinery is very important. Check that your joinery supplier is a member of a recognised trade body such as Registered Master Joiners; members are listed at www.masterjoiners.co.nz. When you are assessing the credentials of your supplier ask what, if any, warranties are offered. Be as well informed as possible on the different products, so that you can choose the best product for your situation.
Painting and staining Whether you want to bring out the warm earthy tones with a stain, or add a splash of colour with paint, timber joinery can be finished to suit your environment. The surface coating plays an important role in protecting timber, so make sure you choose wisely. Getting joinery pre-primed prior to delivery is a good option as the joinery can be fitted straight in, but remember primer has a limited life. Light-coloured paint systems should only need repainting every 8-10 years. Most semi-transparent and transparent finishes (stains) need to be applied more frequently. Don’t paint joinery in dark colours as the heat generated will cause bowing and could void the warranty. Paint is the recommended finish for exterior windows as it offers the best protection against the effects of ultraviolet light and weathering.
kitchen
benchtops “Lockwood Gullwing Show-home” photo taken by Craig Robertson Courtesy of Strachan Group Architects.
Hot stuff Every timber benchtop is unique. The grain of each piece of timber has its own character and will age in a different way depending on the stain and effect of natural light. Timber benchtops look the part in a period or country kitchen and also create a striking feature in a contemporary kitchen. If you are buying a kitchen benchtop, it is important to only buy the best quality timber. Be sure to understand what guarantees are offered. To keep the benchtop in pristine condition you’ll need to give it care and attention. A timber benchtop should be kept as dry as possible. It must be waxed and polished regularly to retain its lustre. The Registered Master Joiners’ Association can provide a list of quality joiners in your area: www.masterjoiners.co.nz 25
interior
Using wood for your window frames in a 200m2 house compared to other materials, will save 0.39 tonnes of CO2
the equivalent of driving from Picton to Invercargill and back again.
sav e
0.39
tonnes CO2
windows
Check your carbon savings online using the NZ Wood building materials carbon calculator. Visit www.nzwood.co.nz/calculators
Good looking
Replacing a window
In New Zealand we benefit from clear and uniquely bright natural sunlight throughout the year. Windows help us to make the most of the natural light. Timber windows come in countless styles, shapes and sizes, from sash windows and French doors, to skylights and picture windows. They add character and drama to a room, enhancing traditional features or adding contemporary flair.
Replacing an existing timber-framed window with a new timber window does not require a building consent. But the replacement window must also comply with the performance requirements of the Building Code.
Windows need to be durable, hardwearing and able to handle whatever the New Zealand weather throws at them. Under the Building Code, windows must be designed to last for over 15 years.
Installation of new timber windows is not covered by Building Code compliance document E2/AS1 and must be consented as an ‘Alternative Solution’. This means you must demonstrate to your local building consent authority that the detail meets the performance requirements of Building Code Clause E2 External moisture. To view types of timber window details that have been approved by a local authority, visit: www.nzwood.co.nz Since the external weatherproofing is affected, you’ll ideally have the replacement window at hand before the existing window is removed. This will ensure that the building is open to the weather for as little time as possible.
26 www.nzwood.co.nz
Which wood?
When choosing a timber species you need to consider the location and the degree of exposure of the window, as well as the construction and finish. The most commonly used New Zealand-grown timbers are radiata pine, cypress species such as macrocarpa, lusitanica (Mexican cypress), and Lawson’s cypress. The most commonly used imported timber is western red cedar.
For a more unusual visual effect you can combine the special characteristics of different timbers, for example using western red cedar for sashes and radiata for frames and sills.
Timber Tip Frequent washing of frames and glass will extend the life of your windows and doors.
Resources NZ Wood How-to-guide – timber windows: download free at: www.nzwood.co.nz/howto New Zealand Building Code E2/AS1: download free at: www.dbh.govt.nz BRANZ Bulletin 481- timber windows: available to buy at: www.branz.co.nz
doors Holding sway Wooden doors are a popular choice because of their durability and look. With so many different styles, colours and designs available, you’ll easily find the right wooden door for your home. Doors and sashes should be mortise and tenon jointed, frames housed together and joints primed.
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interior
walls + ceilings
28 www.nzwood.co.nz
“Lockwood Gullwing Show-home” photo taken by Craig Robertson Courtesy of Strachan Group Architects
An extra dimension There are many ways you can use timber panelling inside your home and there is a huge range of products available for different rooms, from the bathroom to the bedroom. Timber is a unique and natural material and when used as wall panelling adds a feature to any home, old or new. The beauty and warmth of natural timber tones can enhance the visual appeal and also add value to your home.
Panel types
Panelling is a generic term that describes different timber board profiles, as well as a range of timber-finished sheet materials, used as decorative lining on walls, ceilings, and some furniture applications. If you are fairly handy with carpentry tools, it is usually straightforward to put up the panelling yourself.
As well as choosing different timbers, you can choose a different panel profile. The most common panelling profile is the standard tongue, groove, and ‘v’ on both sides (TG&V). It’s normally available in 90 x 19 mm, 135 x 19 mm, and 90 x 9 mm sizes. Other profiles include: shiplap, reversible TG&V, TG/TGV.
Download the free How to Guide on the NZ Wood website – internal walls and ceiling lining, available at www.nzwood.co.nz/howto
Which wood?
New Zealand-grown species used for panelling include eucalyptus, douglas-fir, macrocarpa, radiata pine, rimu, silver beech, and tawa. The burning question: Fire Performance Contrary to what you might think, timber used in building construction can offer a high level of fire resistance. Rather than bursting into flames and feeding a fire, large timber members burn slowly and form char on the surface. This charcoal protects the core of wood and adds to fire resistance. The contribution of timber building materials to ‘fuel’ for the fire is usually small compared with the building’s contents.
The severity of a fire and speed of fire growth are influenced by the design of the building. Large areas of wood-based surface linings in buildings can contribute to faster fire spread and this needs to be taken into account. The immediate threat to life usually occurs in the early stages of a fire when occupants are likely to be trapped or overcome by smoke. Fire resistance is important at the later stages of a fire to prevent fire spread or structural collapse which could threaten the occupants or property in adjacent areas. Other building design features and sprinklers may be required to lessen the effects. 29
interior interior
stairs The next level A staircase can be a focal point of a home, creating the flow between two floors. Creating a wooden staircase in an existing home does not necessarily mean starting from scratch. You can use your original base and add an attractive top layer of your chosen wood. New timber stairs are normally custom-built in a joinery shop. When ordering a timber stair unit you will need to provide initial information on all the dimensions, as well as the materials and the finish you’re after. Ask your joiner to visit the site to check the measurements and advise on the best method of installation.
Resources The New Zealand Building Code Compliance Document D1/AS1 sets minimum design criteria for stairways. It’s free to download at www.dbh.govt.nz/userfiles/file/publications/ building/compliance-documents/clause-d1.pdf You’ll also find more information in the NZ Wood ‘How-to-guide – staircases and steps’ at www.nzwood.co.nz/howto For suppliers of interior timber products, visit the NZ Wood website: www.nzwwod.co.nz/suppliers 30 www.nzwood.co.nz
feet first a natural beauty The natural elegance and understated beauty of wooden flooring will give your home a classic look that never goes out of fashion. Wooden floors are probably the only floor covering that improves with age and complements most interiors – from the bright and airy modern look, to the warm, cosy charm of a character villa. Whether you leave the timber fully exposed or partially covered with a stylish rug, your floor will have natural charm and style. 31
interior
Practical on every level Wooden floors are attractive, warm underfoot and durable. They are comfortable to walk on and won’t upset allergy sufferers. Wooden floors at ground level have a cavity below them which provides air circulation and ventilation as well as the flexibility for any services such as plumbing to be easily accessed and altered.
Using predominantly wooden flooring in a 200m2 house, compared to other materials, will save 12.6 tonnes of CO2
the equivalent of emissions from driving 63,000 kms – that’s the same as driving from Cape Reinga to Bluff more than 31 times. Check your carbon savings online using the NZ Wood building materials carbon calculator: www.nzwood.co.nz/calculators 32 www.nzwood.co.nz
sav e
12.6
tonnes CO2
Types of flooring
Choose wisely
Composite panel flooring is most often used as a base material which is overlayed with carpet, lino, tiles or real wood.
Before you decide which wood to use on your floor it is important to think about how the room is used. If it’s a high traffic area you’ll need to choose a harder, more durable wood. Make sure you choose a species that suits your style, your room and your lifestyle.
Composite panel, such as particle board, medium density fibreboard (MDF) or plywood.
Solid wood floor
Wooden overlay
33
Which wood?
many of these timbers may havE limited availability
interior
MACROCARPA Flooring grade macrocarpa has small, tight knots making it perfect underfoot.
Macrocarpa flooring is a beautiful honey/gold colour with a distinctive grain. It is a reasonably soft timber (compared to pine or kauri) and can be expected to dent easily, so bear this in mind if you’re looking for flooring in high traffic areas.
tawa is a specialty timber that is similar to silver beech.
Dry heartwood is a light creamy brown, similar to oak in colour and grain.
Red beech has a reddish colour, with light and dark red overtones.
This timber is sourced from the West Coast, Southland and Canterbury and is a similar hardness to matai.
Rimu heartwood is distinctively grained, reddish in colour and strong and durable.
It is found mostly on the west coast of the South Island. Rimu is available in heart or sapwood – the heart rimu has more grain than the sap. Rimu sapwood can be prone to attack by borer if not treated.
tawa
Red Beech
Rimu
Salvaged Matai matai is salvaged from lakes and river beds from early settler logging operations.
Due to the age of these logs the sap wood has mainly eroded away leaving the heart wood, which is then processed into premium grade flooring. Salvaged matai has a very limited availability.
Eucalyptus saligna New Zealand grown E.saligna, makes a premium flooring product.
It has a warm reddish brown colour.
Silver Beech The relative hardness of silver beech makes it a solid choice for flooring.
West Coast silver beech is predominantly a warm maple and honey colour, and is also known for its variation in feature colours, (purple, green and brown tones) which create a striking effect on the floor. Southland silver beech is traditionally a pale white honey colour, more consistent in colouring and slightly softer than West Coast silver beech.
For suppliers of these species, visit: www.nzwwod.co.nz/suppliers 34 www.nzwood.co.nz
a real warm up Research shows that uninsulated houses lose 10% of their heat through the floor. As an added layer of insulation you can use polystyrene panels and foil-type sheeting on the underside of the wooden floor. Solid wood flooring is designed to slot firmly together on all four sides so that there is no way for cold drafts to come through. However, it is important to leave a gap around the outside of the room between the flooring and the framing. This allows for the expansion and contraction of the wood and creates a heat loss barrier between the floor and the outside walls.
timber timbre Solid wooden floors have natural sound insulation and, when installed properly, sound transference is minimal. In the case of ‘floated’ wooden overlays, a high density underlay can be used to soak up the majority of the sound. When solid wood floors are fixed directly to an existing under floor there is no gap between boards and base and this limits noise transmission. Where the flooring is nailed directly onto joists, using thermal insulation material such as polystyrene underneath can also reduce sound resonance.
It is mandatory under the Building Code for houses to meet heating energy requirements. The New Zealand Standard NZS 4218:1996 specifies the minimum insulation requirements for housing and small buildings.
“
”
It’s the perfect child-friendly material – it wipes clean and it’s allergy-free! Stephanie, Homeowner 35
case study
Making room for the family Island Bay, Wellington
“
We wanted to modernise the house, without losing the character. Danielle, Homeowner
36 www.nzwood.co.nz
�
When you walk through the spacious kitchen through the dining area and onto the sunny deck, it’s hard to imagine the concrete work surfaces and large laundry that this renovation replaced. “We knew we wanted to make changes when we bought the house,” says Danielle, the owner. “But we wanted to modernise the house, without losing the character.” The upstairs was added and then expanded and remodelled to create a deck and two bedrooms. “We had to add an upstairs – we needed more space for our growing family!” explains Danielle as she scoops up her youngest, Mila. Danielle and Chad decided to use wood as a key part of their renovations to bring the character of the house back. These projects were such a success they’re planning even more work on the house. “We’re not stopping now! We’re planning our next big project and extension. We’re hoping to make room for an even bigger family!
Before
After 37
outdoors
breathe room to
Branching Out Space is something we all value and our gardens are a particularly prized personal space. Thoughtful design and creative concepts can transform your muddy back yard into your own space for recreation and relaxation. From a small courtyard to a spacious garden, the opportunities to extend and personalise your living area are numerous. There are plenty of opportunities to use wood for projects on the outside of your home. You can use timber for structural and landscaping work, such as a retaining wall or fence, or for something more ornate like a pergola. Wood blends into the landscape and creates a clean and natural look in your outside space. With many different timber types available you can choose a wood that works in harmony with your home and garden. “Mission Bay House� photo taken by Patrick Reynolds Courtesy of Crosson Clarke Carnachan Architects
start simply outdoors
You can tackle many outdoor building projects yourself – even if you are a DIY novice. Timber is easy to work with and requires few specialist tools, so it’s easy to get stuck in and have a go at building something. Once you have successfully completed simpler projects you can move onto more complex jobs. However for larger scale projects it makes sense to use a professional – you’ll find advice on how to pick a builder on page 50.
decks
A deck can create a whole new area for relaxation and entertainment. A well planned and well made deck can add an entire room to your home – an outdoor entertainment area, somewhere for the kids to play or a place to relax and unwind al fresco. Whatever look you want to create, a timber deck will always look the part. Decks less than one metre above the ground do not normally require a building consent or need to have a balustrade fitted. However some local authorities require consent for any decks attached to a house.
gates On a practical level a gate will give you privacy and protect your home. On an aesthetic level, it will enhance the look of your home and create the right first impression. Timber gates come in a huge range of designs and can be stained or painted to fit the look of your home.
fences
Timber fences offer an economical and versatile way to fence off your home. You can choose from a huge range of styles, designs, looks and finishes to suit your taste. Most solid timber fences are post and rail with attached battens. But other common types include picket fences, trellis fences, paling fences and more simple designs made from wire and battens. Fences less than 1.8 metres high generally do not require a building or resource consent but the type of fence you are permitted to build may be limited by building regulations.
40 www.nzwood.co.nz
For ‘How to’ guides on all these projects and more, visit the NZ Wood website: www.nzwood.co.nz/howto
walls
retaining
“
The treated timber wall was the most practical and cost-effective solution. Brian, Homeowner
�
Retaining walls play an important role on an uneven site. As well as providing support to hold up an unstable bank, they can be used to terrace an area and create a new, usable outside space. Timber is strong, durable and attractive, and can make a feature out of an essentially functional construction. Timber crib walls are usually used for larger scale projects. If you need to build a wall that supports a heavy weight, or a bank above a road or driveway you should use an experienced contractor and you will need engineering design assistance.
Timber Tip
a fence When you are building re your on a boundary makwie su e neighbour is happy fothre th u proposed position be to myo e sure ak build. You also need th the that you comply wincing Act 1978. provisions of the Fe rmation on (You will find infoerbuild.org.nz, the Act at consum s section.) under the legal issue
Walls higher than 1.5 metres will require a building consent and retaining walls over one metre may require a safety barrier at the top. In a domestic situation you will probably only need a safety barrier when the wall is next to an access path to the house. Landscaping timber, including retaining walls may be treated to H4 or be naturally durable, but crib walling must be treated to H5.
Which wood?
Timbers above ground such as palings and trellis/lattice fencing are treated to hazard class H3.2 and do not need to be painted. posts treated to hazard class H4 are suitable for ground contact. 41
outdoors
planter box +
“
raised garden
I love the way the chunky wooden stairs seem to almost float in the air. They work in harmony with the rest of the house and the surroundings . Mark, Homeowner
”
Planter boxes and raised gardens are great ways to grow flowers and vegetables when outdoor space is tight. You can build them to a size that suits your outdoor area. Treated timber will not damage any vegetables, plants or flowers and so it’s suitable for any planter box or raised garden. Durable untreated timber can also be used, such as heart macrocarpa and some eucalyptus species.
pergola
A pergola is a shaded walk or passageway of pillars that supports cross beams. When this frame is planted with vines or trailing flowers, such as passionfruit or jasmine, it creates an airy, shaded space. Pergolas are a great way to create an indoor/outdoor flow to and from your home, as the passageway leads you gently into the garden area. If you are attaching your pergola to your house, a building consent may be required. You can choose from a range of different timber types to create your pergola. Radiata pine treated to H4 is required if you are concreting posts directly into the ground. Alternatively you can use framing timber treated to H3.2 if you secure the posts using specially designed post brackets which keep the timber clear of the ground. New technologies now allow for treated radiata pine to have the appearance of exotic hardwoods such as kwila. To complete the look you can choose a clear stain to provide long lasting durability while retaining the natural look of the timber.
42 www.nzwood.co.nz
garden
sheds Sheds can simply be a place to store tools and garden equipment, but they are often much more than this. A shed can be a workshop or sanctuary, or a place of peace and contemplation. Whatever you need from your shed, by using wood you will create a feature that blends into its surroundings and makes a natural home for you, your tools and your hobbies. In many cases, a shed of less than 10m2 does not require a building consent.
gazebos A gazebo is a pavilion-like structure, often octagonal, which is found in parks and gardens. Your gazebo can be freestanding or attached to a garden wall; they are generally roofed and open on all sides. As well as being an ornamental feature, a gazebo can offer shelter and shade. A wooden gazebo can be a stunning feature and offers a natural way to extend your outdoor living area.
Which wood?
You can choose a wood and finish that suits the style of your home and creates the right look
Timber Tip Save time and effort by ying tim ber cut to length at the timber yabu rd . Ma ke a sketch of your project, including th quick dimensions and take it with you whe buy materials. That way you won, en you anything and you,ll know exactly t forget how much timber you need.
The naturally durable heartwood of some timber species, such as macrocarpa, rimu, eucalyptus and beech are also acceptable for use as decking, external stairs, stair handrails and balustrades. A Hazard Class 3.2 level of treatment is required for decking and other associated application end-uses such as external stairs, stair handrails and balustrades. Decking in contact with planter boxes or soil is required to be treated to H4. For suppliers of outdoor timber products, visit the NZ Wood website: www.nzwood.co.nz/suppliers
43
case study
Suburban Retreat Seatoun, Wellington
44 www.nzwood.co.nz
Photos taken by Mark Hadfield
“
The timber helped me to create an interesting form, a world away from a standard ‘box’ shaped house. Uche, Architect
”
This unique house was designed and built for a family to relax and play in. “The family wanted a feeling of space and openness, but to also have the option to escape the hustle and bustle of family life in smaller, more private spaces,” explains Uche Isichei, the architect who led the project. The house runs from a central ‘spine’ with living areas on the ground floor to the left and bedrooms on the first floor to the right. The large north-facing windows use the sun’s power to light and heat the house. Timber is used throughout to add warmth to the space. “We used macrocarpa because it looks good and wears really well.” The entranceway is an unusual feature of the house. It creates a clear separation between the street and the home. “The street is quite crowded, so we wanted to create the feeling of space as soon as you walked into the house,” explains Uche. The wood panelling brings the space to life and gives the entranceway a welcoming glow.
45
building + Renovation
roots putting down
your dream home Building your own home or taking on large scale renovations can seem like a daunting prospect. But with an organised approach and the right professionals by your side it is possible for anyone to achieve the dream of a new home, designed and built to your specifications. In this part of the book we’ll take you through the key stages of a self-built or large renovation project. The resources listed at the end of this section will help you to take the next steps towards turning your ideas into reality. “Sutherland-Corbett House” courtesy of Graham Sawell, Pyramidz Architecture Design Ltd, Warkworth
building + Renovation
Where to start There are several milestones in the planning and building process. Step 1
Budget Step 2
Design Step 3
The consent process Step 4
Find a builder Step 5
Construction Step 6
Move in!
“Motuoapa House” courtesy of Mark Frazerhurst Architect
48 www.nzwood.co.nz
STEP 1
Budget What can you afford? Before you launch into the building project you must first work out how much money you have to play with. You’ll then need to get an idea of what you can do within your budget. When you are talking to architects, designers and builders, explain roughly what you want to do, such as how many bedrooms and bathrooms you would like. An architect, designer or a builder should be able to give you a ballpark figure so you can get a reasonable idea of how much the total project is going to cost.
STEP 2
Design The Design Process
Some elements to consider include:
For both new build projects and renovations you will probably need to use the services of an architect or designer. There are also ‘off the shelf’ options for self-build that don’t involve an architect or designer, and these are discussed below.
Wind. New Zealand lies in the ‘roaring forties’ latitudes and experiences strong winds. This, combined with high rainfall, places a lot of stress on our buildings. Wind can cause movement in building structures and pressure differences can cause moisture to be forced through quite small gaps.
Before you talk to a professional, you’ll need to put together a brief that includes information on the type, size and style of home you’re after. A good architect or designer should be able to work within your budget to produce a design that suits your needs.
It’s elemental Under the Building Code the life of a building is expected to be at least 50 years, but we often intend our homes to be around much longer. To make sure your home is built to last, you and your architect or designer will need to consider how the sun, wind and rain will impact on the building and how the overall design will cope with these forces. When thinking about being weathertight you need to take into account your house’s situation and the different forces that will affect the timber.
Temperature. Although New Zealand has a temperate climate, temperature changes can still occur quite quickly. These fluctuations can cause building materials to expand and contract at different rates, causing stresses on building materials. Moisture. When absorbent building materials such as timber become wet, or their moisture content changes due to humidity, they will expand. Different materials expand and contract at different rates. As with temperature, this causes stress where different materials meet. Earthquake. New Zealand experiences frequent earthquakes so our buildings are designed to withstand them. But because buildings are regularly shaken joints can open up and cracking may occur. Salt. Buildings close to the coast (within 500m) are subject to heavy concentrations of salt laden sea spray. Even buildings up to several kilometres away can be subjected to moderate amounts of salt in the air. Salt build-up causes corrosion and the breakdown of paint and other protective coatings. Ultraviolet light. Ultraviolet light from the sun can cause the deterioration of many building materials. Plastics and paints are particularly vulnerable to wear and tear from the sun’s rays.
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building + Renovation
Bespoke design options There are several different types of architects and designers you can employ to draw up the plans for your home. Each generally offers a different level of qualification, expertise and design flair. 1) Registered Architect
Design Fees
An architect is able to design and coordinate all building work, services, site works and project management – from concept to completion. An architect will be able to develop a distinctive and innovative solution. Architects in New Zealand belong to the New Zealand Institute of Architects (NZIA).
The fees you pay to an architect or designer may seem expensive, but in reality they are a small part of the total cost of a building project and they will add value to your home.
2) Architectural designer An architectural designer specialises in building design and construction, from conception to final certification. They can provide a service that includes design, full working drawings, contract documentation and contract administration. Architectural designers are represented by Architectural Designers New Zealand (ADNZ). Architectural designers generally charge around the same as architects. The fee will depend on the scope of the project. 3) Architectural draughtsperson An architectural draughtsperson can draw up plans from your basic ideas. They will be cheaper than an architect or architectural designer but are unlikely to have the same level of creative input. These professionals offer a good low cost option for smaller projects. For example, if you want your laundry renovated, a draftsperson can prepare the drawings and instructions for the builder, plumber and electrician. Some draughtspeople may be members of ADNZ, while others may be connected to the Design Association of New Zealand (DANZ). 4) Design and build builders Some builders offer a design service, either drawing the plans themselves or using an architect or designer they work with to draw the plans. Builders aren’t usually trained in house design but this option might work for you if you are very clear about your design and specifications. Always ask to see examples of their work to make sure they can deliver the service you need. 50 www.nzwood.co.nz
Expect to budget between six to fifteen percent of the total cost of the job, depending on its size and value and what services the architect or designer provides. Check with the NZIA and ADNZ for the latest recommended fee scales. Contracts Regardless of the size of your job you should always get an agreement in writing. Both NZIA and ADNZ have very detailed standard contracts you can use. Whatever contract form you choose, make sure it covers the full scope of the architect/designer’s role in the project and that you fully understand it. You will need a separate contract with your builder for the construction of your home.
“Lockwood Gullwing Show-home” photo taken by Craig Robertson Courtesy of Strachan Group Architects
Off-the-shelf options If you are nervous about handling a large building project, but still want to build your own home, there are other options available. A popular choice is to use a company that provides a home-building package. 1) Standard Homes Group housing companies offer a range of standard designs. Some will let you change almost anything on the design, others may not be so keen to alter their plans. Some firms will take care of the entire building process from building consent and local planning compliance to landscaping. The builders and subcontractors will often be part of the package. 2) Kitset Kitset homes fall into several different categories. ÎÎ Pre-packaged ÎÎ Factory pre-fabricated
A pre-built or transportable home will be fully manufactured in a factory and delivered to your site ready to be connected with the awaiting foundations and services. Sometimes sections of the house will be delivered or matched as modular components. 3) House Plans Some companies will sell you a standard house plan. The advantage of using a stock plan is that it is likely to be tried and tested, and you can view it as a show home or a private home. However, the design won’t have been done specifically for your section, so choose the plan that will work best with the shape, size and contours of your section.
ÎÎ Ready built/transportable ÎÎ Modular homes A kitset package will include all the materials and components required for you to build from a pre-selected design, some elements of which may be factory pre-fabricated, and delivered to your section. Prefabricated homes are manufactured off-site, in advance, usually in standard sections that can be easily shipped and assembled.
Courtesy of Initial Homes
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building + Renovation
STEP 3
The consent process Resource Consent If you want to do something that is not automatically allowed under the Resource Management Act (RMA) or is regulated by a plan, you have to apply for resource consent. To find out if you need resource consent, ask your council. You can be prosecuted under the RMA if you do the work without first getting any required resource consents. the right site If you’re using a architect or designer to draw up plans for your home, you’ll need to find somewhere to build it! The key to picking the right section is research. Check the certificate of title and council files to see if there are any legal restrictions on using the section. The district plan will tell you about boundaries and height restrictions. Make sure your lawyer approves the sale and purchase agreement, for the section. Before you apply for a building consent it is a good idea to get a Project Information Memorandum (PIM). A PIM is a report issued by the local council. It includes information that the council considers relevant to the proposed building work. Information in the PIM may affect your planning which is why you need it before applying for the building consent. The Building Code Under the Building Act, all building work must comply with the Building Code. The New Zealand Building Code sets out performance standards that building work must meet, and covers aspects of the building, such as structural stability, fire safety, access, moisture control, durability, services and facilities.
52 www.nzwood.co.nz
Building consent Building consent is permission from your local authority that you can carry out building work in accordance with the plans and specifications you have drawn up. Usually your architect or designer will put in the application as your agent when the final plans are drawn. You need to apply for a building consent before building a new house or before doing any building work, including structural work, plumbing work, drainage work or site work for new houses or alterations, or before shifting an existing building onto a new section. Building consent checklist Each council may have different requirements for submissions. Check with your local council and visit the ConsumerBuild website (www.consumerbuild.org.nz) for a checklist on the building consent process. Inspections The BCA (Building Consent Assessor) will inspect the building work at specific stages identified in the building consent and again at completion, to make sure the work complies with your consent documentation. There will usually be a form attached to your building consent identifying these stages. Final inspection You, as the owner, must advise the BCA when work is completed and apply for a code compliance certificate (CCC). The BCA will then make a final inspection and issue you with a CCC if satisfied that the completed work complies with your consent documentation.
Before embarking on any building project you should make some checks. You’ll need to get in touch with your local authority to ensure that the proposed height, type and location of your project complies with local planning and building rules, and whether a building or resource consent is required. You can find out more about the consent process on page 52.
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building + Renovation
STEP 4
Find a builder Engaging a builder
Tender Checklist
Your architect or designer may source the builder and subcontractors; they usually work with a pool of builders and can offer you advice on people they trust.
Visit the ConsumerBuild website (www.consumerbuild.org.nz) for information on the tender process and a checklist to help make a sound decision.
If you are going to select the builder yourself, start looking around early. If you see a house you like, ask the owners who built it and if possible talk to them about any problems with construction and what the builder was like to work with. Ask for recommendations from friends and colleagues, your mortgage manager, the real estate agent and others in the house business. Get a list of names and start a pre-selection list. How to select a builder Hiring the right builder is crucial to the project’s success. People who have gone through the process say that having a good builder and subcontractors is essential for a positive building experience. There are three main ways to engage the services of a builder: ÎÎ Full contract. The builder manages the entire project, including subcontractors and material – from start to finish. ÎÎ Labour only. The builder simply completes the work, you oversee the project, manage the subcontractors and organise the materials. ÎÎ Managed contract. This is the middle ground between the first two options. The builder manages the day-to-day building and you are responsible for pricing the job, getting the quotes and organising the materials and subcontractors. It is important to understand the differences so you know what a builder is quoting on. It is also crucial that you and the builders who are tendering for your project are very clear about what sort of contract you want.
54 www.nzwood.co.nz
The contract It is wise to have a written contract with your builder. If the builder is the main contractor, they will organise the contracts with the subcontractors. However, if you are managing the project yourself under a labour-only contract with the builder, you will have to arrange contracts with each of the contractors, for example, the plasterers, painters and plumbers. Many building companies and individual builders will have their own form of contract. You can also purchase a contract template from Standards New Zealand (www.standards.govt.nz). Contract checklist Visit the ConsumerBuild website (www.consumerbuild.org.nz) for a list of the essentials to have in a building contract. Get a lawyer to check the contract to make sure everything is covered. Don’t forget that both you and the builder must sign it, and date and initial each page.
STEP 5
The construction project Project Management If you are managing the project, you will have to keep a very close eye on the quality of the work and pick up problems quickly.
Step 6
Move in! It’s time to start enjoying life in
your new home
Even if you’re not project managing the work you’ll be interested in the progress of the build. If you spot anything that does not look right, bring it up immediately. Most things that go wrong are simply mistakes which your builder would prefer to know about sooner rather than later. Use a diary to record your questions and comments for your project manager or builder. Recording progress Whether you are managing the project or not, keeping your own records is very important. A copy of the contract, as well as every piece of correspondence, the bills and statements, and a record of any discussion with the builder and contractors needs to be filed so that you can easily find them. Emails should also be printed out and filed. It is a good idea to take photographs or make a video diary at regular or key times while the house is being built, preferably with a date imprint. There are several good reasons for this: ÎÎ Recording the location of service trenches, such as drains, before they are filled in. ÎÎ Having a factual record if there are any disputes about the workmanship or materials used. Make sure the photos are close-ups to show important details. ÎÎ Recording already damaged items delivered to the site or items damaged by vandalism. ÎÎ Recording weather conditions and any resulting damage. ÎÎ Noting anything unusual you see, such as irregular construction practices. ÎÎ Recording milestones in the building work. Keep the photos in an album, on your PC or a disk, date them and give them a title or explanation if necessary.
Acknowledgement and further information. The information in this section is taken from information on the ConsumerBuild website – a site developed jointly by the Department of Building and Housing and Consumer NZ. We recommend you visit this site (www.consumerbuild.org.nz) for further useful and detailed advice on the building process.
Image courtesy of Carter Holt Harvey Wood Products
55
Resources
www.nzwood.co.nz for information on all things wood, including fact sheets, How to Guides, carbon calculators and suppliers of wood products. General www.consumerbuild.org.nz has a comprehensive guide to the building process www.smarterhomes.org.nz contains information on energy efficient and sustainable building techniques Finding a designer Architects in New Zealand belong to the New Zealand Institute of Architects (NZIA) www.nzia.co.nz Architectural designers are represented by Architectural Designers New Zealand (ADNZ) www.adnz.org.nz Some draughtspeople may be members of ADNZ, while others may be connected to the Design Association of New Zealand (DANZ) www.danz.co.nz Finding an ‘off-the-shelf’ house Building Industry Federation www.bifnz.org.nz Registered Master Builders Federation www.masterbuilder.org.nz Certified Builders of New Zealand www.cbanz.co.nz Builders www.dbh.govt.nz/lbp register is the list of licensed building practitioners www.certified.co.nz lists the builders in the New Zealand Certified Builders Association (CBANZ) www.masterbuilder.org.nz lists the registered Master Builders Federation (RMBF) www.masterjoiners.co.nz helps you find a qualified joiner Contracts Building contract NZS 3902:2004 House Building Contract available to buy at www.standards.govt.nz 56 www.nzwood.co.nz
foreword
When you build, renovate, or change the way your home looks you’re taking control and choosing to make a difference to your world. If you use timber to achieve your dreams, you’ll also be making a positive difference to the environment. Wood is the ultimate sustainable building material. As a tree grows it removes and stores carbon dioxide from the air, helping to reduce carbon levels in the atmosphere. This means it’s actually good for the environment to cut down trees. Young trees remove the most carbon dioxide as they grow. Harvesting and using the timber locks away the carbon and prevents its release back into the atmosphere. And replanting the forest continues the cycle of removal and storage. (Of course this is only the case for trees from a sustainably managed forest, not from a rainforest). The more wood we use, the more trees are planted and the more carbon is removed from the atmosphere. So when you’re using timber from sustainably managed forests, you’re not only creating a beautiful environment to live in, you’re helping the planet and creating a better world for your children and grandchildren.
Change your world Build with wood
Living with wood ld r o w r e t t e b a r o F
www.nzwood.co.nz