Autumn/Winter 2015 Trend Report
Creative Direction Industrial Flash Au Creepy Kitsch
VM & Instore Trends D.I.Y Back to the Future On your Bike
Print and Graphic Electric Serif Brocade Homage Marble Transition
Menswear Deap Sea Blue Russian Mob Hawaiian Jungle
Fig. 1. Bread and Butter Head Quaters (2015)
Creative Direction Industrial Flash Au Creepy Kitsch
Fig. 2. Street Posters (2015)
Industrial Flash Midnight Diesel
Smokey Urban
Kinky Vimto
Luminous Fushia
Razzle Rose
Fig. 3. Berlin Street Poster (2015)
Splashes of pink on a dull background seems to be creeping in for 2015. From Poster art to public telephones, subtle injections of pink seem to be the new decoration to your life. This trend follows on from when Kidults started to graffiti on designer fashion houses in 2011 with pink spray paint expressing their feelings towards their fashion show. One of the targets was Chanel and in their 2014 Spring/Summer collection they paid a tribute to their expression towards them and the other fashion houses. This trend seems to have caught on, brightening up a simple/dull area with a dash of pink, it gives the area a bit of charisma. During our time at Berlin Fashion week, pink was a big trend in visual merchandise from the inside of the brands shop bags, lighting and even used on hangers. Watch out 2015, you are about to get flashed!
Fig. 4. Industrial Flash Moodboard (2015)
AU Plantimnum Pebble
Sandy pretzel
Rose Biscuit
Smoldering Asphalt
Precious Aurum
Fig. 5. Gold Light (2015)
Gold. Gold means wealth and riches, with the economy doing a lot better this trend is reflecting on the UK being able to afford more luxury items in life. Metallic colours were the key to many brands VM this year at Berlin fashion week, including silver, rose gold and gold. From spoon installations to bikes being spray painted gold, metal colours were seen used in many different ways around the city. With artists like Raphael Hefi who’s work was featured in Nottingham Contemporary Gallery at the end of 2014, metallic is becoming a new creative direction for 2015. Raphael used many different metals experimenting with the composition and treatment of metals in different states. This could be the start of a different take on metallics and metal colours used throughout fashion.
Fig. 6. Au Moodboard (2015)
Creepy Kitsch Berry Ice Cream
Banana Pudding
Juicy Apple
Princess Dazzle
Frozen Sky
Fig. 7. Creepy Ice Cream (2015)
Freaky, Scary and frightening. creepy Kitsch is all about eye catching weirdness and their was certainly a lot of that going on around Berlin. This trend is being expressed in all areas of fashion, from the clothes themselves to the VM. In Ashish’s Spring/summer 2015 catwalk show we saw the faces of Kanye West and Kim Kardashian take on the catwalk, and by on the catwalk I mean on a lavender coloured jumper. Creepy faces on jumpers to hat at Premium Berlin, gaudy seems to be the new way to catch peoples eye. Also Victoria Beckham’s Autumn/Winter 2015 used shots of unconscious models posing in a drab room which evokes Viviane Sassen photography style.
Fig. 8. Creepy Kitsch Moodboard (2015)
VM & Instore Trends D.I.Y Back to the Future On your Bike
Fig. 9. Wooden VM (2015)
D.I.Y Spent Hide
Virgin Oak
Tuppance
Galvanized Anode
Powered Mildew
Fig. 10. Backpacking (2015)
With a desire to eschew corporate and consumer culture, there is a clear trend message that store visuals will take a drastic turn of direction toward the do it yourself theme. Gone are the days of fast fashion, shifting into a more ethically aware consumer we will see retailers making a conscious decision to have a hand constructed feel. Bringing textured walls and building materials into the mix it will create a dynamic and visually stimulating environment that will be a big winner amid shoppers.
Fig. 11. DIY Moodboard (2015)
Back to the future Pickled Ginger
Moon Crater
UFO Dreams
Taraxacum
Follow the Light White
Fig. 12. Retro Television (2015)
When back to the future was first realised the thought of hoover crafts and space-age clothing was a mere distant dream. However, we now live in an age where this vision is fast impending and due to make a huge impact on the way visual merchandising will look for AW/15. With Nike releasing an exact copy of the predicted hi-tech trainer that have self-tie laces and rumoured mechanisms that make them perfect for hover boards we can expect to see futuristic innovations in the realm of shop retail begin to change. Expect to see unpredictable fallouts of retro technology juxtaposing futuristic technology as well as abnormal shapes that contrast unconventional colours like pickled ginger and moon crater grey.
Fig. 13. Back to the Future Moodboard (2015)
On Your Bike Oatmeal
Full Eclipse
Mellow Amber
Boer Dust
N.Y.P.D
Fig. 14. Old Bike Seat (2015)
Customised vehicles expand the concept of personalisation and will seize the visual merchandising scene in AW/15. This transitional trend has been gaining traction for a long time now, since we first saw the novelty of bikes used as props in displays in 2011 it has evolved to become all about the mode of transport and how it can be adapted to become bigger and better. Standard is no longer good enough for the modern day shopper they want to see something special. Ethical afflictions will come into calculation with upcycling, customising and adapting vehicles and components to create an exclusive feel that moves away from modern day consumerism.
Fig. 15. On your Bike Moodboard (2015)
Print and Graphic Electric serif Brocade Homage Marble Transition
Fig. 16. Neon Walkway (2015)
Electric Serif Halogen Vapour
Graffite Orchid
Emin
Stealth Strobe
Bleached
Fig. 17. Light Bulb Letters (2015)
There was no escaping this trend at the trade shows. In 2014 we saw Rococo Wonderland create sculptural neon lights of handwritten messages. This dramatic aesthetic has now been adopted by brands to illuminate their image. With Tracey Emin at the forefront of this sculpture, she recently gave it greater exposure after the success of her set design for the 2015 Brit awards. The ability to combine industrial with personalisation is what makes this trend so promising and will translate well as print.
Fig. 18. Electric Serif Moodboard (2015)
Brocade Homage Cabernet
Morris Brook
Acid Sweet
Archaci Verdant
Piccalilli
Fig. 19. Embroidered bags (2015)
Delicate and textual embroidery which embodied European influences was evident at recent fashion weeks. With the influential houses such as Dolce & Gabbana and Valentino coining the trend, they used botanical designs which evoked the emblematic work of William Morris. Combing opulent patterns and vibrant colours with intricacy means this trend encapsulates paying homage to the traditional practice but with a contemporary feel.
Fig. 20. Brocade Homage Moodboard (2015)
Marble Transition Engine Gravel
Berninni’s Ecstasy
Petrol Smoke
Ashy Rain
Oyster Storm
Fig. 21. Marble VM (2015)
Marble sculptures are a refined and important cultural aspect thanks to the legacy of renowned artists like Bernini. Due to the lineage of the art work, referencing marble print in fashion has previously been paired with the high end designers, including Alexander McQueen and Carolina Herrera, however it has now transitioned into a more urban environment. The versatility of the print means brands like Brixtol and Adidas are beginning to develop the print for a variety of different garments and promotional material. Adopting an affluent design for street wear creates a really interesting juxtaposition and references the changes in the hierarchy of the fashion industry. We predict that this trend is going to be iconic to the season.
Fig. 22. Marble Transisiton Moodboard (2015)
Menswear Deap Sea Blue Russian Mob Hawaiian Jungle
Fig. 23. Fur Coats (2015)
Deep Sea Blue Tardis Who
Dutch Iris
Anemic Rattle
Olive Taupe
Silver Birch
Fig. 24. Hole in the Wall (2015)
Deep sea blue and azure colours emerge as a key colour trend this season. This was seen most on Milano menswear catwalks for the A/W 15/16 collections, besides garments it was also seen as a footwear trend. For footwear the colour blue adds a polished touch to formal and casual shapes, differentiating them from the traditional brown and black footwear options.
Fig. 25. Deep Sea Blue Moodboard (2015)
Russian Mob Rusty Fox
Baby Boy
Paper Bag
Chinchilla
Wet Peat
Fig. 26. Fur Coats (2015)
Despite past controversy, the fur theme is back for menswear and it made a regular appearance on the catwalk. From the 1970s style overcoat to sportier shaved down versions that feel more sophisticated and contemporary. Fur has become a strong textural statement piece on the catwalks as seen on the Lanvin, Marc Jacobs, Louis Vuitton and Giorgio Armani’s menswear fashion shows. This trend has developed from the previous season, where there was only a hint of fur from Dries Van Noten, compared to the current farfetched trend
Fig. 27. Russian Mob Moodboard (2015)
Hawaiian Jungle Mystical Jungle
Green Mile
Nicotine Therapy
Autumn Leaves
Dry Blood
Fig. 28. Hawaiian Bag (2015)
The popularity of Hawaiian prints has been surging in menswear for the past 4 years now. The Hawaiian style shirt with floral prints strikes a balance between vintage and modern shapes. This was a key trend at the Bright Tradeshow in Berlin with brands like Hype and Neff. It started to be popular among the skaters/hipsters making its way to streetwear brands. Soon enough it made its way into the high-end designer fashion shows. This trend is more common in the spring/summer season with brighter colours, however for the A/W 2015 the colours are toned down with a earthier feel.
Fig. 29. Hawaiian Jungle Moodboard (2015)
Figure References Figure 1. Berlin (2015) Bread and Butter Head Quarters Figure 2. Berlin (2015) Street Posters Figure 3. Berlin (2015) Street Poster Figure 4. Berlin (2015) Industrial Flash Moodboard - Berlin (2015) Pink Bags - Berlin (2015) Pink Gallery Sign - Berlin (2015) Pink Posters on the floor - Berlin (2015) Pink Sunglasses - Berlin (2015) Pink Door - Berlin (2015) Pink Telephone Figure 5. Berlin (2015) Gold Light Figure 6. Berlin (2015) Au Moodboard - Berlin (2015) Silver Shoe - Berlin (2015) Gold flower applique - Berlin (2015) Gold Shop Interior - Berlin (2015) Rose Gold Chain - Berlin (2015) Metallic Trainers - Berlin (2015) Rose Gold Spoons Figure 7. (2015) Creepy Ice Cream Figure 8. (2015) Creepy Kitsch Moodboard - Berlin (2015) Scary Faces - Berlin (2015) Colourful Bambi - Berlin (2015) Colourful Hats - Berlin (2015) Living the Dream - Berlin (2015) Dolls in a Car Figure 9. Berlin (2015) Wooden VM Figure 10. Berlin (2015) Backpacking Figure 11. Berlin (2015) DIY Moodboard - Berlin (2015) Wooden Panels - Berlin (2015) Wood Stack - Berlin (2015) Barbed Wire - Berlin (2015) Metal Fence - Berlin (2015) Wooden seating - Berlin (2015) Wooden grid seat Figure 12. Berlin (2015) Retro Television Figure 13. Berlin (2015) Back to the Future Moodboard (2015) - Berlin (2015) Trainer Display - Berlin (2015) Neon Lighting - Berlin (2015) Colourful Geometric Shape - Berlin (2015) Living the Dream - Berlin (2015) Light up Trainer - Berlin (2015) Light up Jacket Figure 14. Berlin (2015) Old Bike Seat Figure 15. Berlin (2015) On your Bike Moodboard - Berlin (2015) Collection of Bikes - Berlin (2015) Rainbow Bike - Berlin (2015) Motor Bike - Berlin (2015) Old Bike - Berlin (2015) Orange Vespa - Berlin (2015) Flower Bike Figure 16. Berlin (2015) Neon Walkway Figure 17. Berlin (2015) Light Bulb Letters Figure 18. Berlin (2015) Electric Serif Moodboard - Berlin (2015) Neon Walkway - Berlin (2015) Hype Lighting - Berlin (2015) Fantasy Lighting - Berlin (2015) Lagerfeld Lighting - Berlin (2015) Bag Lighting - Berlin (2015) Idee Lighting Figure 19. Berlin (2015) Embroidered bags
Figure 20. Berlin (2015) Brocade Homage Moodboard - Berlin (2015) Multicoloured silk - Berlin (2015) Silk Scarfs - Berlin (2015) Draped Scarfs - Berlin (2015) Embroidered Boot - Berlin (2015) Embroidered Tree Figure 21. Figure 22. Figure 23. Figure 24. Figure 25. Figure 26. Figure 27. Figure 28. Figure 29.
Berlin (2015) Marble VM Berlin (2015) Marble Transition Moodboard (2015) - Berlin (2015) Mani Shop - Berlin (2015) Marble bag - Berlin (2015) Red Marble Building - Berlin (2015) Blue Marble Building - Berlin (2015) Marble Draped Fabric - Berlin (2015) Marble Structure Berlin (2015) Fur Coats Berlin (2015) Hole in the Wall Berlin (2015) Deep Sea Blue Moodboard - Berlin (2015) Blue Coats - Berlin (2015) Trainer Wall - Berlin (2015) Bread and Butter Head Quarters - Berlin (2015) Blue Interior - Berlin (2015) Blue Window Lighting - Berlin (2015) Blue Fur Coat Berlin (2015) Fur Coats Berlin (2015) Russian Mob Moodboard - Berlin (2015) Fur Close Up - Berlin (2015) Shaggy Wool - Berlin (2015) Yellow Fur Coat - Berlin (2015) Fur Hoods - Berlin (2015) White Fur Berlin (2015) Hawaiian Bag Berlin (2015) Hawaiian Jungle Moodboard - Berlin (2015) Hawaiian Shirts - Berlin (2015) Patterned wall - Berlin (2015) Neff Wall - Berlin (2015) Hawaiian Hat - Berlin (2015) Hawaiian Shirts 2
Figure 30. Berlin (2015) Front Cover Moodboard - Berlin (2015) White Fur - Berlin (2015) Marble Structure - Berlin (2015) Pink Posters on the floor - Berlin (2015) Gold Structure - Berlin (2015) Blue Window Lighting - Berlin (2015) Wood Stack - Berlin (2015) Neon Walkway - Berlin (2015) Colourful Geometric Shape - Berlin (2015) Orange Vespa
Figure 30. Berlin (2015) Front Cover Moodboard
Emily Fellows N0512624