MOCK Magazine Issue #1 Preview

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Yummy Soap! Written by Courtney Williams; Edited by Elvia Francis

Yummy Suds Bath and Body Products is a company similar to its predecessor LUSH Products, offering organic products with earth-friendly packaging, yet with a “yummy” twist. Kim Lesser founded Yummy Suds about two years ago in Melbourne Beach while she was contemplating a project for her son’s kindergarten class. The project was to melt and pour soap, thus leading to the commencement of Yummy Suds. Lesser is an artistic individual, so creating the unique and organic soap products came quite naturally to her. Yummy Suds is created by three women: mother--Kim Lesser, daughter--Nichol, and daughter-in-law--Jenny. The three “soapy chicas” work full-time and provide bath and body products to many retail as well as online establishments. Yummy Suds was first launched on an Etsy site in March of 2009 and later obtained its own domain in early 2010. Yummy Suds produces handmade bath and body products that are made from fresh, organic products and are vegan based. The soaps are brightly colored and most of their products are inspired by food, such as “Wickedly Sinful Chocolate,” “Neapolitan Ice Cream Parfait Sugar Scrub,” “Death By Chocolate Parfait Sugar Scrub,” “Lemon Drop Butter Cream Sugar Scrub” and “Cupcake Bath Fizzy.”

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B E A U T Y Yummy Suds also offers soap cakes, which are perfect for baby shower, party and wedding favors. The packaging is biodegradable/recyclable and seed infused boxes are also offered, which if planted will grow wildflowers. Yummy Suds is adamant on refraining from the use of parabens, petroleum, and harsh chemicals. Their products are cruelty-free, animal-friendly choices and they do not buy ingredients from companies that are cruel to animals or contain animal by-products. Yummy Suds is ideal for mostly women, but also men (ages 15 to 65). There is a varying selection of scents in the soaps that are bound to appeal to everyone. Their low-prices for the generous amount of products make it affordable for everyone. For example, LUSH Products’ “Honey I Washed the Kids” soap is $7.95 for a 3.5 oz., while Yummy Suds’ version of this soap, “Oh Honey, Beehive!” is only $5 for a 5oz. Yummy Suds sells a wide range of products in exiguous categories, which include bath bombs, soaps, sugar scrubs, shower gels, lip balms, gift sets, aromatherapy fragrances, holiday-themed limited-edition products, massage bars, body butters, and hand/body creams. They also sell three different styled soap dishes, a natural sisal washcloth, and an eco-soap bag. To ensure your Yummy Suds products are received fresh, they are sent within three days of placing your order. The bottom line is this company is fantastic! Lesser is very personable, which makes customer service a breeze, so do not hesitate to ask for her assistance. For more information on Yummy Suds as well as to purchase their bath and body products, please visit http:// yummy-suds.com/ or http://www.etsy.com/shop/yummysuds

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{Makeup Artist}

Written by Elvia Francis

The twenty-nine-year-old makeup artist declares, “makeup chose me. ” Originally from Minneapolis and currently residing in Chicago, Phillips initially performed makeup on his friends. He stumbled upon or found his “calling” while attending college at University of Minnesota. Once he found his talent, he withdrew from college, and moved to Los Angeles in 2000 to attend The Make-Up Designory (MUD). Phillips attended beauty school while in Los Angeles, and currently holds an esthetician license. He states, “hard work and perseverance got me where I am today.” Phillips constantly strives to gain knowledge and experience as a freelance makeup artist and works for cosmetic companies and salons such as MAC Cosmetics, Smashbox, Aveda, Clinique, JUUT Salonspa, C Salon and Mario Tricocci. He also works with two agencies in Chicago, BMG Worldwide and Sonia Roselli Bridal. Phillips also collaborates works with Chicago photographer John Gress who produces male calendars, greeting cards--and, soon, a coffee table book. Phillips consistently tries to work more in the Chicago “fashion scene” and says that his favorite part about being a makeup artist is “that I get to create living, breathing art.” To see more of Brandon Phillips’ work or to contact him, please visit his website: http://www. brandonbeauty.com/

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Brandon Phillips


Commentary: What Is Beauty? Written by Jaclyn M. Jardine; Edited by Elvia Francis

Poet and philosopher Khalil Gibran once penned, “Where shall you seek beauty, and how shall you find her unless she herself be your way and your guide?” And so it begins, the quest for superficial perfection. Endless hours pass in primping and preening to achieve a desirable look. Exorbitant amounts of money are spent to satiate the need for supplies. The face, the hair and the body are a blank canvas for cosmetics, lotions, polish, dyes and décor to emulate the ideal image of beauty. But who is this “guide” in this epic journey? Who is this illusive “she,” the woman who so defines beauty and beckons others to follow in her footsteps? The philosophical poetic-prose of “The Prophet” is perhaps Khalil Gibran’s greatest achievement. One of the twenty-six essays within, “On Beauty” is particularly striking. Much like the writer himself, “On Beauty” is laced with intrigue, spirituality and a mysticism that captures the hearts and minds of readers across the globe. It seems only fitting, then, to find the inspiration to do likewise. In the search for true beauty, we as a people often graze the mere surface of pleasure. Yes, what is pleasing to the eyes satisfies the aesthetic definition of beauty. Symmetry, proportion, and youthfulness--these are the scientifically calculated qualities of superficial “beauty.” But what if we could find someone who defies these notions--someone who represents an ideal beauty, but relents to no standard archetype or expectation, someone who captures the almost contradictory nature of Khalil Gibran’s beauty? Meet an anomaly named Regan. A thirty-year-old graduate student in the field of Disaster Medicine and Public Health Preparedness, and an employee of the Midwifery Institute of Philadelphia University, Regan has quite the busy schedule--especially when she tours with The Olde City Sideshow. There, the burlesque-inspired, barely-dressed performer is known as Reggie Bügmüncher, the sideshow’s resident insectivore. In addition to regularly digesting live worms, Bügmüncher contorts her body to astounding limits, breathes fire, walks on a ladder of blades and lays upon a bed of nails--all in the traditional vein of a true sideshow performance. Speaking with Bügmüncher on her craft, her career, and her courage to challenge what “beauty” means to the beholder--one can learn quite a lot, in order to be more broad-minded.

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MOCK: Reggie, how would you define beauty? Reggie Bügmüncher: “(American actress) Parker Posey.”

MOCK: Wow, that was quite a specific answer. Reggie Bügmüncher: “Well I was thinking about the topic of beauty... It’s something I’m really excited to discuss. And Parker Posey just says beautiful to me.”

MOCK: What about Parker Posey embodies your idea of beauty? Reggie Bügmüncher: “Beauty is an aesthetic pleasure. Something that evokes a positive response, something that stands out, that’s interesting and intriguing.”

MOCK: And what’s your take on the beauty industry at large? Reggie Bügmüncher: “Actually I think there’s some hope there. Seeing the whole love-your-body campaigns many advertisers are pushing, seeing more diversity… I think the standard of the beauty industry is changing. People are just done with bullshit.”

MOCK: How did you first get involved with The Olde City Sideshow? Reggie Bügmüncher: “When Danny [Bornero] and Martin [Ling, the “Suicide King”] first began The Olde City Sideshow, I just knew I wanted to contribute. I really liked the direction they were going and the emphasis on every detail, to create a revival of Vaudeville entertainment. I guess I was looking for a creative outlet. Plus, I was willing to eat bugs.”

MOCK: Are insectivores a traditional part of sideshow performances? Reggie Bügmüncher: “Oh absolutely. Though I have to avoid crickets, mealworms, and cockroaches--they have the same protein as shellfish. I found out the hard way that I have a fatal shellfish allergy, after I nearly died following a performance. By the end of the night my throat had swollen, closed, and I [had] broken out in hives. Danny and Martin had to call an ambulance. Well, it was actually funny, in a way. The medics said, ‘Oh, what, she swallowed a bug or something’ and were really confused [then] Danny said, ‘No, dude, she ate a lot of bugs.’ And, of course, we had to try to explain that one.”

MOCK: Do you have any training, when it comes to sideshow performance? Reggie Bügmüncher: “Nope, I just wanted to be a part of it. Plus, I sort of discovered a hidden talent. I was [just] flipping through a book on [legendary sideshow performer] Melvin Burkhart, [also known as] the Anatomical Wonder, and saw a photo of him sucking in his stomach until it was completely concave. I said, ‘Pssh, I can do that,’ and called Danny and Martin to show them. I just never knew it was a sideshow skill!”

MOCK: And what are the typical reactions to your performance? Reggie Bügmüncher: “Well there’s a certain shock value in it, that’s for sure. There’s a complete contradiction when you [typically] see on-stage a hot, half-naked girl just standing there eating worms…”

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MOCK: So, does The Olde City Sideshow benefit from your female presence? Reggie Bügmüncher: “I think a woman in colorful undergarments doing gross-out acts really grabs some attention, from both men and women. I think people just want to be entertained...”

MOCK: What do you get out of this kind of work, and why a sideshow? Reggie Bügmüncher: “I feel that I’m keeping art and tradition alive, and performing really puts my life in perspective. It’s a creative outlet where I can fully-identify without judgment. It’s a place where no matter how I look, or what I’m wearing, I can work and perform completely comfortable in my surroundings.”

MOCK: Is that in part because of the people you work with? Reggie Bügmüncher: “Well trust is an important element in our work. There are certain situations with sword swallowing, the whip act, the bed of nails... where your life is literally placed, to some degree, in someone else’s hands. Plus, we have worked with amazing people, other working acts with sideshow performers, both ‘madefreaks’ and ‘born freaks’.” MOCK: What are your experiences with “born freaks?” Is there any concern for political correctness, or the possibility of exploitation? Reggie Bügmüncher: “I don’t really feel I have a place to comment on anyone’s exploitation; I don’t have the right. These people have an amazing skill that they perform and embrace, people with some physical limitations that would otherwise exclude them from an able-bodied, traditional job. They work hard and are passionate in their performance[s].” MOCK: There’s something beautiful about that! Reggie Bügmüncher: “There is. There is a beauty in ‘freaks,’ and in overcoming any disability--be it mental or physical. Beauty, by definition is something that stands out, something intriguing.”

So, next time you think you know what “beauty” is, or already have a preconceived notion, remember a differing opinion really could liberate your view. As (Italian actress) Sophia Loren once quoted, “Beauty is how you feel inside, and it reflects in your eyes. It is not something physical.” True beauty is to love yourself and love one another! For more information on Reggie Bügmüncher and The Olde City Sideshow of Philadelphia, please visit: http:// oldecitysideshow.com/

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Grooming 101: For Him Written by Margaret Francois; Edited by Elvia Francis

Some things come with practice and patience, while others are solely innate. It has become second nature in our society for a beauty-savvy woman to know the ins and outs of what- and- where-to-buy in accordance to grooming essentials. But, what about the men? Greek philosopher Aristotle once quoted, “Personal beauty is a greater recommendation than any letter of reference.� Pampering and grooming is not exclusive only to women, it is of utmost importance for any individual--regardless of your gender--as it is the first element of your being that people notice and how they perceive you. Plus, your skin is around fifteen percent water, if your skin is below ten percent water it will cause all the layers of your skin to not work properly causing skin disorders, such as acne and dermatitis. To help kick-start a proper grooming method or to further develop your grooming and pampering regime, here lies a guide to a few of the latest and greatest in grooming essentials, for any man, that will take you from disaster to dandy in no time.

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B E A U T Y

For your face:

PRESERVE YOUR APPEAL Whether you have a heavy beard, sensitive skin, or limited prep time to shave, it’s pivotal to use more than just shaving cream alone. Using a pre-shave gel, before shaving cream, protects your skin from irritation, and spares you the annoyance of a clogged razor. Try the Taylor of Old Bond Street Pre Shave Gel ($18). It’s made from herbal ingredients, is ideal for sensitive-skin, and allows for a close, clean shave.

DON’T BE AFRAID TO EXFOLIATE Avoid razor bumps and ingrown hairs by using an exfoliating cleanser prior to shaving. Not only will this help thoroughly remove dead skin cells and related grime, but it will prep your skin for a less irritating shave, without over-drying, as well as leave your skin with a clean, smooth finish. Try Billy Jealousy “LiquidSand” Exfoliating Facial Cleanser ($18). Billy Jealousy is a skin-care company that believes an investment in your appearance can really pay off! The cleanser is less penetrating than a facial scrub, but more powerful than a face wash. Plus, it helps to reduce the appearance of fine lines or wrinkles and photo damage from the sun. You simply just massage the cleanser onto your wet face and neck and rinse thoroughly with warm water. For best results, use every other day.

LABELS MATTER It may seem as though using shaving cream is common knowledge, but it’s important to use the right shaving cream, in order for you to get the most out of shaving. A great way to avoid irritation is to look for key ingredients such as aloe vera, lavender, and tea tree oil--all of which reduce redness and counteract many of the harsh effects that shaving can sometimes have, and all without burning or stinging. Try ZIRH Shave Gel Jar ($23). This clear, non-foaming aloe vera based shave gel makes it easy to maintain facial hair, or to avoid any irritated area. The ZIRH Shave Gel creates a slick surface that firms and soothes the skin to leave it free from razor burns, cuts and nicks and uses an unique combination of natural ingredients, such as ginseng and seaweed extract, to smooth and calm skin.

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MOISTURIZER IS MAN’S BEST FRIEND After using exfoliating cleanser, let your shaving cream sit for a couple of minutes to soften your hair, and use a sharp blade as you cut with the grain of your hair for the smoothest possible finish. The last and most important step in this process is to make sure to moisturize. Moisturizing is vital to your skin-care regime because moisture is what skin needs to maintain a proper balance and healthy complexion. Try Viktor & Rolf “Antidote” Aftershave Balm ($45). This soothing aftershave balm eases shaving irritation, and leaves your skin lightly scented with the classic masculine elegance of Viktor & Rolf’s “Antidote” potion/fragrance.

GROOMING ON-THE-GO When it comes to getting just the right smooth, clean-cut groomed look-- having a travel-friendly shaving kit is very necessary! Whether a man is battling the problems of ingrown hairs, sensitive skin or more, he needs a tool kit that can battle them all. Try The Art of Shaving Power Shave Set ($150). This shaving set features the world’s most technologically advanced razor and perfectly travel-sized “elements of the perfect shave”, which include a pre-shave oil pump, shaving cream pump, genuine badger shaving brush, and after-shave balm pump. Plus, it comes unscented, as well as in the following three scents: lavender, lemon, and sandalwood.

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For your body:

MAKE IT EASY ON YOURSELF Having access to two essential body products, in one bottle, makes tending to hair and skin fast and easy. Try a body cleanser that is also a shampoo, and it will make grooming during travel (even after playing a sport or after exercise) more enjoyable. Try L’Occitane Gel Douche Body and Hair Shower Gel, Pour Homme ($25). The France-based skincare retailer aspires to be “the worldwide reference for Mediterranean well-being, with unique body, face, and home products.” This shower gel, for men, gently cleanses the skin and hair while leaving you sensationally perfumed.

DUAL TIME After a long day on the job, or a hard workout at the gym, give your muscles a little rest and recuperation with an exfoliating scrub and muscle relaxer. Look for ingredients such as shea butter, glycerin, arnica and Epsom salt to give muscles the ultimate treatment. Try Jack Black Body Rehab Scrub & Muscle Soak ($35). With a powerful combination of exfoliating salts that combat dead skin cells and stimulates cell turnover, this scrub increases circulation, while arnica and Epsom salts help relieve muscle tension and soothe aching muscles.

SMOOTHE OPERATOR Soft skin is never a faux pas, and using an ideal scrubbing device will make any man feel as though he’s treating himself to a moment of bliss. Try something that will exfoliate and simultaneously moisturize skin, like the Dove Men +Care Active Clean Dual Sided Shower Tool ($5). It’s easy to grip/hang and works with body wash for extra scrubbing power, which you can’t get from just using your hands! The mesh side delivers the right amount of thick cleansing lather, while the scrub side helps exfoliate for a deep clean. For best results, you should replace this tool every four to six weeks.

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Style Evolution: Basic Essentials Every Man Needs Written by Bobby Schuessler; Edited by Elvia Francis

The great artist Leonardo da Vinci once said, “ Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication.” Likewise, becoming the ultimate man of style can truly be attainable by incorporating simple, basic pieces into your everyday wardrobe. Initiate your “style evolution” and swagger down the street with these basic essentials, which every man needs in his closet/wardrobe: *V-Neck T-Shirt. Your style truly cannot evolve without a simple, v-neck tee. V-necks are the easiest way to create that keen, effortless look without spending a fortune. For a James Dean inspired look--pair a v-neck tee with a blazer for work or a cardigan for nights/days out. Try Topshop, Gap, and Hanes for a variety of v-neck choices at different price points. Alternative Option: If you really cannot bring yourself to try a v-neck because it does not suit your personal style, a crew-neck tee will suffice. You can easily pair a crew-neck with a jacket or sweater.

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*Black or Grey Cardigan. A basic cardigan easily sports the sophisticated, but laidback look. Wear it unbuttoned with a t-shirt for casual wear, or buttoned with a button-front shirt and tie for any special occasion. A buttoned cardigan can actually replace a blazer, if you are looking for a new option to the suit. Alternative Option: A simple, black or grey hooded sweatshirt can suffice instead of a cardigan. Just be sure that the sweatshirt is fitted and worn with a basic tee or button-front shirt. *Dark-Wash Straight-Leg Jeans. A dark-wash straight-leg jean absolutely needs to be incorporated into any stylish man’s ensemble. Dark-wash jeans can be dressed-up or dressed-down with either a t-shirt or a jacket. Be sure to try on the jeans before you make the purchase and that they are perfectly fitted to contour to your body’s shape--not too snug and not too baggy! *Converse Sneakers. Nothing exclaims “street-chic” quite like a man in Converse sneakers. These are the absolute cheapest and most timeless choice for casual, male footwear. The best part is that you can either dress them down with black skinny jeans or throw on a suit with them for a casual day at the office. For summer, ditch the flip-flops and wear the sneakers sock-less with shorts for a great weekend brunch. Pick up your pair at any major shoe retailer, and/or at Piperlime.com, if you need extended sizes. Alternative Option: Any sort of street, vintagestyle sneaker is definitely an alternative to Converse. Try Vans or Ontisuka Tiger sneakers for great options that come in a variety of colors to fit your personal style and personality.

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*Colored Socks. Yes, socks are essential not only to keep your feet warm and dry, but as a fashion statement as well. Whether you like to believe it or not, when those pant legs lift up, your socks are noticed. Therefore, an aesthetically-pleasing colored and/or patterned sock really makes a statement. Wear purple socks with a black suit for work, or throw on a pair of blue socks with sneakers while you lounge in the park. Check out Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein, and Lacoste for colorful and/or patterned socks. Alternative Option: If the statement sock, such as a pattern-print sock, really is too flamboyant for you, then a basic, colored sock will do just fine. Just make sure the sock matches the color of your pants or pleasurably contrasts your attire. *Statement Sunglasses. You honestly cannot obtain the edgy, stylish look without a pair of great sunglasses that frame your face. Sunglasses definitely can be that splurge item, especially if you choose a timeless style, because if you do not lose them, they will last forever. Protect your eyes with sunglasses from Dolce & Gabbana, Ben Sherman, or Oliver Peoples. *Luxury Watch. Truly, a watch is the most essential item for any man because not only is it practical/functional, but it can really be a status symbol. Pick a classic watch that can withstand the test of time (literally), such as a Rolex or Vacheron Constantin. Alternative Option: If you’re really not looking to make a “status” statement, more affordable watches from Citizen or Skegan still look professional and sophisticated. *A Signature Scent. Every man needs a signature scent to immediately get noticed when they walk into a room. Plus, a desirable scent is the absolute easiest way to get anyone’s attention. Go to any department store and test out scents until you find one that fits your personality. Try Bond No. 9, Giorgio Armani, Jean-Paul Gaultier or Yves Saint Laurent for exquisite scents. Alternative Option: If spraying cologne does not entice you, make sure to incorporate a great smelling body wash into your morning routine to still obtain that desirable aroma. Axe grooming products smell great and are affordable. 16


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*Beard Trimmer. If you do not take into consideration any of the above items, at least invest in a functional beard trimmer to appear groomed and put together. This is especially important to impress that special someone. Facial hair is the man’s form of “makeup.” Alter the facial hair depending on your mood, or what image you are trying to portray. A little scruff is definitely eye-catching, but be sure to shave your neck to appear proper and groomed.

Panasonic SRP $179.99 www.panasonic.com Historiques Ultra Fine 1955 $22,900 www.vacheron-constantin.com Hythe Sunglasses $80 www.bensherman.com Black Curved V-Neck Tee $12 www.topman.com Black with Grey Placket Cardigan $50 www.topman.com Blue Gradual Stripe Socks $6 www.topman.com

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All Hail the Doodski Written by Elvia Francis

Featured in Women’s Wear Daily, Vanity Fair, L’Uomo Vogue, and Vogue Paris, twenty-four year-old Swiss-born fashion designer Andrea Stefanowicz Sabrier has made headlines with his London-based t-shirt line titled Doodski. Doodski’s products have been engineered and researched for several years before entering the fashion market. From the cut to the washes, each t-shirt is a unique experience as all the garments are special and looked into in depth. Manufactured in leading factories in Los Angeles, for its cutting edge technology in street wear and every day attire, Doodski’s first collection blended the savoir-faire and fabrics available in California with unique designs inspired by (the Russian mystic) Rasputin, Russian heritage and culture. Since the launch of the collection in January 2009, Doodski has also launched their newest collection titled, “Plains and Prints.” Doodski’s purpose is to bring its clients a mind-opening experience on a different horizon and feel it through a garment that will follow them through their personal life’s journey. Sabrier came up with the concept of doing a t-shirt label simply as a way to portray his own vision and thoughts of his many travels around the world that inspired him, hence putting his ideas on t-shirts in order to express himself. He felt there was a lack of high quality men’s tees available in the market that could be worn for all occasions and attentive to details such as quality, colors and methods of printing. The company’s tag line is “In Doodski We Trust.”

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in Doodski we trust

DOODSKI is a London based unisex tee shirt brand that has made a successful appearance on the fashion market worldwide with their first collection launched in 2009, providing a refined product design and an easy-going lifestyle philosophy. From the cut to the washes, each tee is a unique experience. Manufactured in leading factories in Los Angeles, DOODSKI combines modern textiles available in California with unique print design inspired by the Russian culture and its imperial heritage for its first collection. The concept of DOODSKI is a brainchild of traveling enthusiasts eager to share their feel and vision of modern multicultural civilization discovered and explored on their frequent trips to various destinations across the globe. DOODSKI’s objective is to give the clients an elegant and relaxed experience, creating a garment that becomes an essential ingredient of their personal journeys. DOODSKI stands for easy wearable tees of strong quality, suitable for any occasion. Our clients are the ones who travel extensively and find themselves in different situations throughout a regular day, always looking chic and elegant with a relaxed and fun approach to their hectic lifestyle. Never too heavy in design and color, our garments are made to fit in a sit down dinner, accompany you in a job interview or an endless party night. Since its debut, DOODSKI has attracted much attention from closed circle trendsetters and European Royalty from London to Geneva, stopping by the French Riviera and the Spanish Balearic Islands. ‘Feel comfortable, look fabulous and be accepted anywhere you go’ is the DOODSKI’s trade mark that ensures a perfect garment for your effortless image in today’s survival jungle.

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in Doodski we trust


Doodski stands for great quality tees available and wearable for any occasion. Sabrier wants his customers to feel great every time they are in Doodski garments, regardless of who they are or where they are. His t-shirts are relaxed, laid-back, and never too heavy in design or color. Plus, even though they are initially targeted for men (between twenty to thirty years of age), women can sport the tees too since essentially his products are unisex. The tees are available in sizes small to extra large and are available in Paris’ Montaigne Market, London’s Harrods, Leeds’ Room 7, Kuwait and Bahrain’s Villa Moda, Dubai and Istanbul’s Harvey Nichols, Beirut’s Moon Concept, Monaco’s MC Market, Seoul’s Boon The Shop, Australia’s Cyberia, Munich’s Loden-Frey, and Milan’s 10 Corso Como, to name a few. Currently Sabrier does not sell anywhere in the U.S.A. as he hasn’t yet concentrated on the American market, which is very different from the European market. However, Sabrier has signed for a U.S.A.

in Doodski we trust in Doodski we trust

RASPUTIN

CHAINS

100% Cotton m Sizes: S M L XL

100% Cotton made in L.A. Sizes: S M L XL

Brown Tee with the ima on the back. The print Rasputin, a mystical ch era of Russia, who bec imperatrice. Alexandra to her ill son, Tsarevich

Dark Blue Tee with golden chain print. The print represents the chains of absolute power, royal attribute worn by Russian Emperors.

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in Doodski we trust

©2009 Doodski · All rig ©2009 Doodski · All rights reserved

Flamingo

100% Cotton made in L.A. Sizes: XS S M L XL XXL

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©2009 Doodski · All rights reserved


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showroom that can be found at LuxCartel—51 White St., 2N, New York, NY 10013. The tees are, also, available for purchase over the web—exclusively at (Florence’s premier luxury-market retailer) LuisaViaRoma and a few tees can be found on (the United Kingdom’s largest independent luxury retail group) Flannels. You can also order t-shirts through the upcoming Doodski official website, which will allow customers to directly purchase tees from the e-shop for worldwide shipping. For Doodski’s official site, and to sign up to be notified when the website launches, please visit: http://doodski.com/

in Doodski we trust in Doodski we trust

Water Frog

100% Cotton made in L.A. Sizes: XS S M L XL XXL

LAST INVITATIO

100% Cotton made i Sizes: S M L XL

Light Blue Tee with Russian ma The print represents the last in royal event by Tsar Nicholas II. in Doodski we trust

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©2009 Doodski · All rights res ©2009 Doodski · All rights reserved

LAST TSAR

100% Cotton made in L.A. Sizes: S M L XL Brown Tee with the Crowned Skull print. The print symbolizes the last Russian Tsar.

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21 ©2009 Doodski · All rights reserved


Chris E. Cheng {Fashion Designer} Written by Elvia Francis

The artistic director and creator of LAB | Local Art Base ®, a middle high-end independent Australian men’s fashion label with a main focus on fabrics, fit and quality, as well as a nod to art, combines the construction of European tailoring with Japanese shape making. The label’s name was a term coined by Cheng to allow him to collaborate with like-minded artists and designers. With a passion for line drawings and renderings, Cheng began LAB as a labor of love. After following a path of fashion retailing, he had the privilege of working for the venerable French couture house, Christian Dior Couture.

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Being an independent Australian label and with LAB having more of its focus on fabrications and fit, “made in Australia” poses its challenges. However, hard-working and humble, Cheng insists on continuing his label and following his passion. Though the LAB label is relatively new (born last year), it has received many requests for a more youthful and younger line, since LAB’s aesthetic is to carry a modern update of the classics. From these requests for a younger line, a defusion line with undertones of the LAB aesthetic called [12.1.2.] was formed. [12.1.2], which is the alphanumeric for LAB, is much more “approachable” (as Cheng says). Cheng will officially launch the line, [12.1.2.], in Tokyo and Sydney as limited-editions in June 2010. [12.1.2.] is influenced by style icons of the past, along with undertones of LAB’s clean-line approach. Cheng tells us that the first collection of [12.1.2] was inspired by the imagery of American actor and Hollywood legend Marlon Brando. [12.1.2] consists of unisex style denim ranging from the “Marlon Straight-Leg” and “Marlon Easy Rider” to basic quality garments such as the “Brando FormFit Tees” to form a nice staple wardrobe--hence the signature double staple stitch detail, along with the barcode or DNA insignia to reference back to LAB. The [12.1.2] series will grow to reference other Hollywood film titans. Cheng is pleased to introduce his defusion line, [12.1.2] by LAB to MOCK Magazine readers. For more information on LAB | Local Art Base ®, please visit http://localartbase.com/ The website for [12.1.2] is currently underway and will be available for viewing in mid 2010. Please stay tuned for http://12-1-2.com/

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Prior to graduating from his fashion studies at TAFE College-Institute of Sydney (East Sydney and Saint George), Cheng was hand-picked by the IMG Regional Production Director and received an invitation to showcase his Pre-Grad Debut capsule at Rosemount Australian Fashion Week in the New Generations segment (2009). Interest in Cheng’s work has steadily grown since LAB’s inception.


Style: The Way Of The Street Written by Dana Covit; Edited by Elvia Francis

Street fashion in major cities has always been a site to see. Who was it that said the sidewalk is a runway? Whether it’s wacky and technicolored, or so chic it turns heads (utterances of “who was that?” trailing behind), street fashion offers a wider and more unique presentation of personal choice and individual expression than other fashion outlets (i.e. runway or editorial) have the ability to portray. But up until recently, street fashion has been no more than a projection of that individual style, fleeting in its existence, forgotten by sundown and tomorrow’s laundry load. Now, major designers are openly citing street fashion as inspiration for their runway collections. Fashion bloggers the likes of thirteen-year-old wunderkind Tavi Gevinson sit front row at Rodarte (designers Kate and Laura Mulleavy told Teen Vogue that she “defines” their Rodarte for Target line), and Jane Aldridge of Sea of Shoes’ designs successful lines for Urban Outfitters, and even collaborates with fashion label Gryphon New York. Style choices of everyday nobodies (or, in some cases, the “who’s who” of fashion) are captured, and catalogued--thus immortalized in a way, on street fashion blogs by the rising stars of street photography.

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Street fashion photography likely started about a decade ago with Bill Cunningham roaming the streets of New York for the New York Times (NYT) Sunday Style section, snapping photos of stylish people who caught his eye and sparked his intrigue. Declared a “Living Landmark,” Cunningham remains the pioneer of New York street photography, and can be linked to what has become the biggest tidal change in the fashion industry. The little people matter-bloggers sit front row, and some designers actually care what they have to say. And indeed, over the last three years, countless copies of the Cunningham prototype have sprouted, and flourished into major websites, receiving hundreds of thousands of hits per day, and hundreds of comments per post. Why has this happened? Some cite the declining interest in ephemeral, season-driven trends due to a struggling economy. This perhaps accounts for the increased interest in personal style choices, which are often built off of highstreet steals and local thrift store finds, and don’t necessarily abide by the “rules” of the game. And of course, the internet has a way of shrinking seas between countries, allowing someone in North Dakota to log onto a street fashion blog and see what their peers in Copenhagen are wearing. This ability is undoubtedly a wonderful thing, a reality that strips fashion of its intimidating exclusivity and hands it to anyone with internet access. At the forefront of this “style for and by the people” movement is Scott “The Sartorialist” Schuman, Yvan “Face Hunter” Rodic, French girl-about-town Garance Doré (she’s the love interest of Scott Schuman, swoon all ye fashion-obsessives), and many others-including more focused ones, like Tommy Ton’s “Jak & Jil” with its “shoe porn” slant, and Craig Arend’s “Altamira” with its focus on industry models. They all sort of fit into their own niche, Schuman snapping high-fashion, modernized-prep, Rodic preferring the creative, wacky and oft-avant-garde fash-pack, and Doré leaning towards feminine, off-handed style choices.

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Maya of Turnedout.tv often delves into the personality behind the clothes: “I think it’s human nature to have an interest in others, what they do, how they spend their time, what they wear… street style images give readers little glimpses into other’s lives, their style and hopefully their personality. I think that’s really interesting and why so many are responding [to street style photography], it’s very relatable.” Lookbook.nu is an upstart version of the more formal street-style photography sites. Originally an exclusive street-style blog for invited members only, membership has been expanded to anyone with a digital camera. Stylish individuals (male and female) upload photos of themselves, often taken by their own hand or by friends, and list their outfit details--where they purchased their look/outfit, and how much it cost. There are over eighty-thousand members to the website, with nine-hundred new looks, and posts made daily. Then there’s street-style websites like Streetpeeper, which span street-style from staple cities like Paris, Tokyo, London, Amsterdam, Berlin, Buenos Aires, San Francisco, Mexico City, Melbourne, Miami, Toronto, and Warsaw, to name a few.

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So will the interest in street fashion and its documentation last? It certainly seems so. After all, even (the editor-in-chief of Vogue USA) Anna Wintour ups her sartorial ante in light of getting snapped by the street fashion photographer of street fashion photographers-Bill Cunningham. In 2002, Wintour told NYT, “I don’t know how many times he has taken my photograph, but we all dress for Bill.” If street fashion photography inspires even the most stylishly established to bring their best look forward, it seems as though every person should take note and follow suit, as it turns out in the end that the sidewalk is a runway in its own right.

Images courtesy of Tamu of “All The Pretty Birds”: http://alltheprettybirds.blogspot.com and Maya Villiger of Turned Out: http://www.turnedout.tv/

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Sartorial Splendor Written by Elvia Francis

Name: Natalie Suarez Age: 19 Profession: Model City: Los Angeles, California (U.S.A.) “[My personal style is] a mix of vintage pieces with designer finds. I never stick to one look! [To me, true style is] when someone takes a piece of clothing and completely makes it [their] own, while flattering their body type.”

Name: Denny Balmaceda Age: 22 Profession: Travel Agent City: Bayonne, New Jersey (U.S.A) “My style can be compared to a chameleon; it varies every day. I don’t label myself, so I don’t stick to one genre of style. The name brands shouldn’t mean a thing, if you have true style you should be able to wear anything—cheap or expensive. It’s not what you wear; it’s how you wear it.”

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Name: Lilian Larrañaga Age: 25 Profession: Fashion Designer City: Maringá, Paraná (Brazil) “My style is a mix of retro and romantic, with references of the fifties, sixties, and eighties.”

Name: Bobby Raffin Age: 19 Profession: Creative Director and Set Designer of Photography City: Guelph, Ontario (Canada) “I would describe my style [as] versatile and unpredictable, because I wear something completely different every day. Personally, I decide this on [my] inspiration and my mood. I prefer a vintage classic look. I believe it’s like wearing a second layer of skin; based on image, feelings, and identity of one’s self. I feel that style plays a very important role on how you want to be portrayed as a person.”

Name: Jane Mai Age: 21 Profession: Illustration Student City: New York City, New York (U.S.A.) “My personal style is happy, girly, and whatever the hell I want to wear—even if nobody else likes it.”

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Name: Annemiek Kessels Age: 19 Profession: Blogger-- http://mode-damour.blogspot.com/ City: Venlo, the Netherlands “I believe that true style is wearing something that you like and feeling comfortable in [it], and [not being] afraid if others don’t like it.”

Name: Patrick Brennon Graves Age: 20 Profession: Stylist City: Smyma, Tennessee (U.S.A.) “I think true style is putting on whatever you want. Maybe it is some avant-garde piece or a $2 t-shirt, but being able to wear it and put yourself out in the world with your head held high, and feeling like you when you wear it. Coco Chanel said it best in my eyes, “Fashion fades; only style remains the same.” So be true to yourself—that is true style.”

Name: Elena Montalvo Age: 25 Profession: Architect/Designer City: Monterrey, Nuevo León (Mexico) “Style comes from millions of unconscious information that we receive daily; mine comes mainly from music and movies I like. I tend to mix everything, from punk bands to classic Hollywood movies, and even social tribes that get my attention. Style is always good when it’s “true” and shows a bit of what you’re about.”

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Name: Unyime Akpanudosen Age: 19 Profession: Student City: Southern California (U.S.A.) “I believe style is infinite. It has no clear definition and is completely subjective. To me, style is a true form of expression—not necessarily flaunting the most expensive clothing—because even the richest person can lack style, rather [true style is] how you compose yourself. In addition to clothing, I also believe in style of the mind— being as sophisticated intellectually as your outfits. My style can best be described as my own. It can vary from day-to-day and is indefinable. I am however transitioning into [the] use of neutral tones—blacks, whites, grays—in a more simple form. I am a fan of blazers, peacoats, and unique shoes. I always have a tri-blend, shallow, vneck [shirt]… I tend to wear those. I have [a] real plan when deciding what to wear or buying clothes. It just hits me in the moment; an instantaneous inspiration.”

Name: Renée Sturme Age: 19 Profession: Photographer/Stylist/Designer City: Amsterdam, the Netherlands “My personal style is rather variable. Sometimes I just really like to create a clash of different prints, and the [next] day I can dress up all black. I really love neutral tones, like grey, black, beige, and soft pink. [To me,] true style is mostly about being true to [who you are].”

The goal of our “Sartorial Splendor” feature is to bring together several, aesthetically aligned and open-minded individuals from around the world in order to showcase the best in international street style. To be considered, email mockmagazine@gmail.com with the subject titled “Sartorial Splendor.” Be sure to include: a stylish image of yourself, your full name, age, profession, city, and how you would describe your personal style or what you believe is true “style.” All images must be from head-to-toe, no excessive photo editing, and must be fully/clearly visible! 31


Human Behavior Written by Elvia Francis

With a theory that our essence is expressed even in the absence of words, Human Behavior is an idea that clothing is and should be a reflection of our thoughts, principles, culture, and a lifestyle that transcends; never an indulgence, but an investment in the belief that one deserves nothing but truly the best. Based in Hauz Khas Village, New Delhi, Human Behavior from Vivek Ravunniarath is a label offering effortless fashion for the men in the city with a young, new age (contemporary) concept-driven approach to urban design retail. Twenty-two-year-old Ravunniarath was born and raised in the southern Indian state of Kerala. It was in New Delhi, where he moved to join Pearl Academy of Fashion (PAF), that he truly began to nurture his design inclinations. Over the four years he spent at PAF, Ravunniarath took a keen interest in understanding and exploring the limitless possibilities of design and developed a sound understanding of what constitutes a good design.  For Ravunniarath, design merges with art as an extension of the fine craftsmanship involved in pattern cutting and tailoring. Human Behavior exhibits this refined taste and brilliance of bespoke tailoring with the utmost attention to the smallest of details.

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Always a risk taker, in August, 2008, Ravunniarath left his intern position with a leading Indian designer barely weeks after joining and landed in Los Angeles carrying a copy of his portfolio. The mission? Land an intern position that better suited his design aspirations. Ravunniarath spent the next three months living in West Hollywood, splitting his time with a men’s designer retail label and a women’s wear designer, whose clients include supermodels Heidi Klum, Tyra Banks and Hollywood celebrities Jessica Alba, Penelope Cruz, Fergie, Jennifer Lopez and Her Majesty Queen Raina of Jordan. Upon graduating from PAF in May, 2009, Ravunniarath, an avid traveler, took some time off to explore the Himalayas and the Kingdom of Bhutan. Five months later, he returned to Delhi with one goal--Human Behavior.

Ravunniarath’s first collection aptly titled the “The Graduate,” is inspired by the sartorial splendor of the Ivy League and the iconic Dustin Hoffman film. Subtle, underplayed chaos in the design reflects the gamut of emotions-humor, the angst, the rebellion, the brilliance--all part of the beautiful journey that is graduation. If you’re lucky enough to be living in or visiting New Delhi, you can visit the Human Behavior store at the following location: 30 Power House Building, Hauz Khas Village, New Delhi, India 110016. For more information regarding Human Behavior, please visit: http://www. humanbehavior.in/ 33


495DM: Cheny Wagma Jewelry and Designs Written by Leigh Held; Edited by Elvia Francis

The jewelry on Madison Avenue sparkles at window shoppers passing by. Most shoppers will remain just that, window shoppers. The price of these designer items is far out of reach. Most fashionistas in New York City would die for a discount on any type of jewelry, let alone the designer goods. Meanwhile, halfway around the world, Cheny Wagma is designing and promoting jewelry in Bombay, India. Her company, 495DM, is a platform for unique fashion and music that strives to bring consumers one-of-a-kind, designer goods at an affordable price without the rigmarole of mainstream, commercialized, big brands. The company is a recent upstart founded by music producer and DJ Chris McGuiness and her. Most items made by designers are manufactured in India, making them available at a fraction of the cost. Wagma was born and raised in Zürich, Switzerland, to Tibetan parents. Her father was an office worker and her mother was a housewife. Wagma knew from an early age her passion was fashion: “When I was three, I stole my mom’s expensive coral, and turned it into necklaces for my dolls. Since then the fashion addiction has never died down. After having worked in various areas of the fashion industry and seeing the entire course of concept to consumer, I knew it was time to launch 495DM.”

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F A S H I O N This twenty-five-year-old graduate of the Business School of Zürich may be on to a recessionista business model: bringing jewelry to the masses nearly at cost. Sure, it won’t have a label, but over the course of the last several years many shoppers have reprioritized. Currently available on 495DM’s website is an exact replica of an Alexander McQueen bracelet. Wagma’s McQueen replica costs only $15, while the original McQueen bracelet costs $330. Wagma explained, “Prototypes, similar designs, and market surplus is available in India long before they are available in the West.” Wagma blogged about the McQueen bracelet two years before it hit the market. These items are showcased in Wagma’s Tapori Collection. In addition to being a scavenger of designer pieces, she also designs her own pieces. All the jewelry is handmade in her studio in Bombay. The items are then taken to a workshop: “The workers’ parents, grandparents, great grandparents, and so on were hand embroiderers. They also manufacture items for the world’s biggest designers. Each piece of jewelry is handmade and inspected personally by me.” Wagma designed jewelry from a young age. She began scribbling designs shortly after the coral incident. Her skills were honed later on working for a large company who had relationships with international designers, led by a guru boss whose designs would always become trend phenomenons. After being trained by that keen eye, Wagma decided to strike out on her own. The inspiration behind her jewelry is a compilation of all of her travels, but of course, India: “India is very culturally and ethnically diverse. Through my travels I always come across new materials and styles. Bombay is so colorful that all I need to do is step outside for inspiration. There are hidden markets for exotic, beautiful materials and vintage pieces that I could never find in Europe or America.” In addition to making jewelry, Wagma also makes clutches, and will soon launch a line of designer yoga bags. All items will be available on 495DM’s website: “We reject the mainstream and the products are affordably priced.” They use India as their source of materials and motivation to create fresh designs and sounds. Whether it’s a designer piece you’re after for a fraction of the cost or an original piece handmade in India--Wagma, her designs, and 495DM will surely carve out a place for the money- and fashion-conscious. For more information on 495DM as well as to purchase from Wagma’s collection, please visit: http://www.495dm.com/

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Trends: Womenswear Autumn/Winter 2010/2011 Written by Chiara Padovan; Edited by Elvia Francis

Illustrations by Jordan Sterling

In a time where everyone is trying to recover from financial crisis, it’s only logic for designers to invest on signature classics and concentrate on what they can do best to consolidate the identity of their labels. But fortunately all that market consciousness has not stopped creativity yet—what we saw on the catwalks was luxury in a subtle way, which translated in pieces one could have grabbed directly from the runway and worn right on their way out. So we should be ready for a sensual and powerful fall/winter season, but without the loudness and exhibitionism. The more curvaceous woman, with the bust and hips, will welcome the tide at Prada and Louis Vuitton. And surely it was about time someone praise those “diva” features in terms of fashion! But even for those who wish they had the curves but do not, there is still a good chance to surf on the new fifties to sixties wave, without a nip-and-tuck, thanks to dresses that enhance the waist line and add volume at the right spots by way of the full skirts and ruffles on the décolleté. Then just add a beehive and a headband, and there you are! On the other hand there are plenty of strong alternatives for any taste. Those who enjoy a touch of androgyny should go straight for one (or more) of this season’s pant-suits, which overtly transform a menswear classic into a powerful female weapon. Those who like to show leg all over the year should make sure they get a pleated skirt, and those who love minimalism will enjoy the many A-lines and understated shapes. It’s all up to you! But even if you’d like to keep it simple, you should pay good attention to quality materials, because that’s of utmost importance and it’s going to make the difference! If you started to look for some leather piece for summer, go ahead. The upcoming fall/winter you can go all leather with a dress, or play on textures combining a leather piece (either top or bottom) with a lighter material, such as lace. But lace works well alone too, if you’re not afraid of the weather. If you are always cold in winter, you may be more interested in velvet, chenille or some great knitwear from head-to-toe, with a little belt tied around it. If you happen to be even colder, you’ll be happy to see fur is back and everywhere—on collars, bags, shoes, dresses and jackets, and obviously as stand-alone vests and coats. No matter if it’s real or faux fur, shearling or feathers, the upcoming season promises an amazing, tactile experience.

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The richness of fabrics is surely one major cause for women’s hearts to skip beats, but still not the only one. You just need to take a deeper look to get lost into the details—embroidery, laser-cuts, draping, ruffles, beading, prints, trompe-l’oeil effects (like false sleeves making a cape or a poncho looking like a coat) are making truly-wearable items exceptional, while mixed textures add interesting light effects and variations on the season’s color theme. Fall/winter 2010/2011 is not only going back to classics like warm brown, dark navy and military green. Neutrals are the new colors! Beside the obligatory black (still a perfect choice), nude, beige, tan, camel, cream, powder and grey are going to be everywhere. Whether you’re looking for casual outwear, a formal suit, or a red-carpet dress, these shades work for any attire—fitting romantic and elegant styles as well as the more structured and edgy designs. And to pick up your mood in the coldest days, you can add a touch of orange, mustard, or red (especially on trims and accessories), or go for a little animal print. Silent colors are not just good for garments—when it came to make-up, the fashion shows say “less is more”! Nude looks were dominating, with the exception of some dark eyes or red lips, for the glamorous touch. There is no need for extremely big hair or architectural cuts either; at the end of the day it’s the woman’s attitude that will make the difference and rock the hard work designers put into their collections. It seems we are witnessing another step in the big shift from fashion houses telling consumers how we are supposed to look to designers providing what we need to enhance our own beauty and wear our personality on the outside the most powerful way. Next season, women are to know themselves and go for what suits and flatters them most. Expect that there will be a wide range of diverse and beautiful pieces of clothing/accessories in the shops to choose from the upcoming season!

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Trends: Menswear Autumn/Winter 2010/2011 Written by Chiara Padovan; Edited by Elvia Francis

Illustrations by Jordan Sterling

As the saying goes, “fashion moves forward,” so it is of utmost importance to compile your wardrobe for the season ahead! Plenty of beautiful garments for the autumn/winter season were spotted on the runways, and the best thing is that layers are highly encouraged! Outwear is highly popular and it’ll ensure you a smart appearance no matter how cold the days and nights get. Coats were all over the runways; giving new volumes to the male silhouette. Men can choose either a soft-shouldered, classy outwear, or go straight to the front with one of Burberry Prorsum’s military-inspired pieces. Fashion houses, Lanvin and Dior, stretched the length of outwear pieces down to the ankles, while Versace and (London fashion designer) Gareth Pugh brought us black coats for the next Matrix hero, and Raf Simons re-defined the traditional trench. If you feel the new oversize coat is looking slightly bulky on you, then just put a belt on it (preferably in contrasting color)! And if you are looking for an alternative to a coat, go for a leather jacket. The runways were streamlined with beautiful jackets in smooth leather, suede, and exotic skins—ranging from ostrich to crocodile. Most designers in Milan (Italy) created their own interpretation of the flight jacket; however the material of choice for men to cope with freezing temperatures is definitely sheepskin! Outwear makes quite the statement in the upcoming season, so be sure you pay attention to important details as collars: big, bigger, double, asymmetric, high, architectured, with fur lapels, or classic—the choice is yours. Once you’ve chosen the right upper layer, you can move on to the ones underneath. Knitwear is the perfect option for weekends or more casual occasions. The upcoming season brings a lot of oversize sweaters and smart cardigans. The newest knit is used in a way that it’s perfectly tailored into coats and jackets. And that leads us straight to an absolute must-have for fall/winter 2010/2011—the suit. You might think the suit is boring, but it is definitely not so for the upcoming season! Designers have worked hard on cuts, materials, and combinations to evolve the classic notion of formal suit so that every man will find his own suit next season, according to each man’s personal style and personality.

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Any man that is used to wearing a suit will most likely enjoy the double-breasted revival, either worn classically with a small tie or with a scarf, and the three-pieces. Those men who normally don’t feel much at ease in formal clothing will hardly find an excuse not to buy a suit this time—“mixing and matching” is the key! In the upcoming season, you can wear a suit over your turtleneck, or even a cardigan for a retro feel, or choose a jacket that matches drop-crotch sweat pants for even more casualness. There are plenty of suitable choices for the extrovert, as well. One might fancy patterns—stripes, tartans, and even some smear paint optics—or opt for a contrast-sleeved or even sleeveless jacket. The provocateur type will likely wear a corset underneath or on top of his suit, or will pick a skirt instead of trouser, or (for even more shock) wear a skirt on top of his trousers. Men who are definitely sticking to pants should “loosen up” a bit, since even Dior trousers are no longer that skinny. The classic, carrot shape is coming back next season in different comfort levels, from almost skinny to very wide. The crotch is low, sometimes even down to the knees, but trouser legs are short, jeans are cuffed up, and any type of pants can be tucked into boots. No wonder then men will have to pay high attention to their footwear next season! High boots are the main focus: from the classic riding to combat boots, the motorcycle way or knee high, with vintage finishing or with fur inside. The most extravagant are probably the heeled crocodile and snake boots that are seen at Rick Owens, surely not for everyone, but really worth a mention! For those who still prefer a classic shoe to boots, there are a lot of lace-ups to choose from, such as the leather shoe—matching the color of your suit as well as the shiny, patent leather with wood soles. The brave may even dare a wing-tip shoe, or even a Lanvin pointy, snake shoe with a bright-colored sole. But no matter what shoes a man picks in the end, there is something he should not forget about… socks! This upcoming fall/winter season, socks can either stick to the colors of your outfit or commit to wool, striped, bright or even white socks. The palette for the upcoming fall/winter season picks up the most traditional color shades. Grey is the neutral par excellence and this time it’s not just a color that goes well with anything, it’s goes best with itself. The all-grey looks are enhanced by layering different shades and different textures for a stylish finish. Aside from grey—you can still trust on black, military and dark green shades, navy blue, browns and tan. Given the safe color choices, the difference and the extravaganza lay in cuts, materials, details, accessories, and obviously in the combination of them all!

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Feel The Vibe in Copenhagen Written by Kristen Joerger; Edited by Elvia Francis

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Danish fashion designer Vibe Johansson always had the desire to be creative, as her interest in fashion began during her childhood, and designing became her dream. Johansson moved to Florence, Italy immediately after she finished high school to start her education at the Polimoda Fashion Institute. After a year, she left Italy to travel to Dublin (Ireland), and then eventually ended up in Spain--where she learned to surf--for a year. She soon felt the desire to start designing again, and returned to fashion at BEC Design in Copenhagen (Denmark) to complete her degree. While studying pattern making, she began to put together small collections. “I started my label quite by accident,” says Johansson. “My plan was to wait until I finished school, and maybe had gotten some work experience, but I couldn’t wait, and when I got a chance I took it.” Unlike many fashion designers, Johansson never worked for any other design houses before creating her own line. “Because it was going well, I never got around to apply for jobs anywhere else,” Johansson says, “though there are a lot of great designers I admire that I think I could have learned a lot from. It has been quite hard figuring everything out by myself, but I don’t regret it. I have enjoyed it too much!” Johansson made the decision to officially launch in 2008 after her graduation and, since then, has shown five collections. Her latest collection, Autumn/Winter 2010, showed at Copenhagen Fashion Week and has been acknowledged internationally in London, Paris, and New York. Johansson uses a lot of draping in her designs, and her A/W 2010 collection showcases her abilities. She mixes feminine, draped fabrics, like silk and jersey, with heavier fabrics like leather, wool and knits, to create a chic result. Johansson never works with a specific theme in mind when she designs a collection; rather she experiments with a lot of shapes and fabrics. She calls her style, “wearable, everyday avant-garde.” Johansson tries to create pieces that can be interpreted in many different ways, depending on the wearer. “My signature pieces have been things that can be used in more than one way, where the wearer can explore the options and make it more personal,” Johansson says. “I like to see people wearing my pieces in new ways that compliment their own style.” One piece that stands out in the A/W 2010 collection is a ten-meter twisted viscose (rayon) jersey rope that can be worn looped around the neck as a loose-fitting scarf, twisted into a top, or worn as a necklace-like statement piece. Also, a draped cardigan from her collection can be worn wrapped around just the body, or around the head to give it a hooded look. Johansson’s collections are available internationally in Denmark, France, Germany, Switzerland, Japan, Sweden, and Korea. For more information about Vibe Johansson and a list of retailers that carry her line, please visit: http://www.vibejohansson.com/

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The Visual “Cult” Written by Leila Byron; Edited by Elvia Francis Many creative types fall under the category of a “visual creator,” someone who creates conceptually to a visual audience. We are all somehow related under this label, whether it is a graphic designer, an artist, musician/composer, or even a visual merchandiser within the retail industry. Anything that has the intent to be visually pleasing and is made to appeal to the eyes of the consumer is considered under this “visual” title. Now what if one were to mention “Visual Merchandising,” what are the first few words to come across your mind? Retail? Corporate? Restriction? Best Sellers? Never judge a book by its cover; whoever says they don’t, clearly hasn’t read the right book. First impressions (as much as society deems as “wrong”) are extremely important, in any situation. Let’s take a look at fashion/retail… How many people walk into a store because they are captivated by the window display; lured in by the bright lights and styled mannequins? Have you ever wondered why women always turn to the right as they enter a store? These things make a difference within fashion and who better to create this then the visual merchandising team. Visual merchandising fundamentally is to increase sales and therefore increase profit for said establishment through the use of the placement of products and analysis of sales; which of course goes against all conventional “artists.” Visual merchandising is a way to promote a company through visual standards and store designs through creative styling, and potentially selling outfits and the brand to the consumer. An everyday situation, for example, includes you walking down a busy street, pondering on your next move; as you are strolling though the midday sun, something catches your eye from the store window. As you approach you see the mannequin dressed head-to-toe in an outfit you wouldn’t dare normally buy but you are intrigued enough to step inside and see the garments first hand. As you enter the store, you are immediately faced with a table or free-standing furniture that offers more appealing goodies that you start to pull apart. A lovely blouse falls next to a befitting pant, which falls next to an extremely chic purse that you can’t help but try on. As you continue your journey on trying to find that ‘outfit’ from the window, you are faced with even more styled options that in fact you may find a lot more charming than the window display (if only you remembered what that outfit was). Enough is enough—you head to the register to purchase that oh-so-chic purse and start to think about what to eat for lunch… but then: “Wait what’s that? A shiny belt lying right next to where you stand. Hmm, cute. Purchase!”

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Visual merchandising has many rules and regulations, according to the brand in order to add continuity across stores, but you will be surprised as competitors and trends add a huge influence on the way some stores adhere to these rules. That ‘must-have’ item that is apparent in every competitor shop forces stores to visually push their own hot-on-trend item at competitor prices. Everything can influence visual merchandisers, and this can also be affected by the location of the store. Take Anthropologie for example—Anthropologie opened their first European store and adhered to their British followers by showering their windows in tea bags, in an attempt to mimic a snow globe. This subtle window display is only a small idea within the whole concept; within their store across the walls are teacups and tea pots creating this British background from the American product and consciously pushing the loyalty of an American brand taking over British soil. Another store that has done this great is All Saints, a brand that was started in London and brought over to U.S.A. early last August. All Saints is the epitome of British grunge and urban flair mixed with feminine silhouettes and soft drape. Their windows are filled with sewing machines and all the in-store furniture are old bakers’ carts and farmers’ tables, to add to the authenticity of the brand. Consumers look for a brand/company to visually draw them in, as well as to be drawn in by the brand’s prices and merchandise. All Saints uses their British ‘fashion’ (which we all know is way better than the American sense of fashion) as a tool for the American consumer to buy into. This is done through their British ‘rock-and-roll’ styling— big masculine military boots styled with figure hugging silk dresses that are dressed on old rusty chain units, allowing for the brand to spill over onto the fixtures. All Saints is definitely one brand to look out for! Visual merchandising, at times, however can be very creatively restricting. With visual merchandising directives being rolled out to each and every store, with the rule that nothing can be done without Head Office approval, the creative side stops at corporate level. As photos are sent in every week, with dreaded comments regarding ‘standards’ and ill-dressed mannequins, the whole process can leave the creative type wishing they were on the other side (and now you need not wonder why so many freelance writers are grabbing onto these creative jobs to counteract their mundane day job…) So, what are your views on visual merchandising is it something you feel is an art or merely a portal for consistency of brand image... Or both? Next time you go shopping, step back for a second and take a look at all the visual tools visual merchandisers use to stimulate your sense and squeeze out those last pennies from you. 50


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Clicking Towards a Degree: Virtual Fashion Courses Written by Eliza Goodman; Edited by Elvia Francis Online fashion courses are fairly new and have become increasingly popular within the last few years. They open up opportunities for a wide demographic, making fashion courses and degrees available for people who would not, otherwise, have been able to enroll. A main selling point of these online fashion courses is the convenience of participation. One of the most popular schools with online fashion classes, as well as the most technologically advanced, is the Academy of Art University, in San Francisco. The AAU’s fashion school curriculum is the most far reaching and comprehensive in its field, with Master of Fine Arts, Bachelor of Fine Arts, and Associate of Arts degree programs, with ninety-five percent of on campus material developed for online courses. (The remaining five percent represent classes that would be impossible to take online due to the required materials, such as industrial knitting machines, and other large equipment). Students enroll in small and interactive classes online, a fifteen to one ratio standard, and communicate with their teachers online. Students use textbooks and computer software/ design programs in their classes, and they have the option to “Live Chat” (direct instant messaging) with teachers and peers, as well as video messaging and conferences for faceto-face feed back. The online fashion courses are similar to in-house fashion courses, but geared to a modern and computer-literate world. The university prides itself on offering fashion courses that, according to the Director of Online Fashion at AAU, Ellen Sears, “combine design excellence with computer skills, preparing graduates to launch themselves into the industry upon graduating,” and earning positions at highly acclaimed firms such as Louis Vuitton, Nike, Donna Karan New York (DKNY), Burberry, Marc Jacobs, Kenneth Cole, and Gap, Inc.

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As (American screen writer and film director) Woody Allen famously said, “Eighty percent of success is showing up,� and this concept seems to ring true for students at the AAU. According to the university, online students are often times the most successful students. The AAU is the only fashion program invited to show at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week in New York City, and their caliber of design and quality of work is widely recognized and well regarded throughout the fashion industry. Each season, hundreds of fashion students, both online and not, compete to show their lines, and at the last Spring/Summer 2009 show, the two of coveted positions were given to online students, (one based in Atlanta, Georgia and the other based in Pakistan), who had never set foot in an AAU classroom.

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The success of these remotely-based students showcases the competence and triumph of online fashion courses. This evident success is based on the capability of students to work at their own pace, at any time of the day or night, wherever they are able. As students manage their individual time, creating flexibility for needs, class schedules no longer interfere with jobs, or personal lives and activities. This individualized schedule management also allows for spending more or less time in certain areas of the subject matter. Classmates who do not grasp a concept, therefore, do not hold each other back, and online students can choose to breeze through some parts of the class while giving themselves extra time for other parts. Students are, therefore, encouraged to thrive! In addition to student advantages in online courses, instructors at the AAU, who are leaders in their fields, and top industry professionals, are greatly benefited by the lack of scheduled class time. Sears says of the program, “[Online courses] provide an opportunity for asynchronous communication, the process neither bounded by time or space. The online environment permits our talented faculty to continue working regular hours and to access the online classroom whenever and wherever they want.� Of course, online courses have benefits to universities. On-site classes in real time present problems--universities must account for each physically present student in the budget, and classroom space, housing, transportation, and other services and liabilities can be very costly. Online students are easier in this sense, as their only expense is to the teacher who overviews the work, or spends time creating lessons and grading assignments. Schools are able to enroll more students, without having to worry about where to put them. This improves the cost-benefit ratio for institutions, making online courses an obvious choice for universities of all kinds. Susan Toland, an AAU representative says, “Online courses provide a great advantage to the Academy of Art University, allowing growth and reach without a carbon footprint. This is a dynamic educational model for the twenty-first century that

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more schools will need to consider to meet the growing student population.” Beyond working at one’s own pace, online fashion courses nullify geographic exclusion. Previously, people who wanted to take fashion classes, but could not, based on where they lived (either due to a lack of schools available in the area, or their inability to move to a city with fashion school access), were out of luck. Now, those who have the drive and determination to complete a fashion degree are able to. Thus, individuals who are very talented are awarded opportunities they would not have had before, and are given a chance to shine, without the struggle of being physically present in class. This is a huge milestone within the field of education, as well as within the world of fashion, art, and design. It brings to mind the story of the underdog getting a chance to follow their dreams, and because of that, to succeed incredibly. Sears, who is the director of this most impressive online fashion school, knows that the AAU is of the times: “Fashion courses online are not the future; they’re the now. The internet is making it possible to gain knowledge and exposure to new ideas and experiences, and the fires are fueled by aspiration and exposure to things society labels as valuable and desirable.” To learn more about the Academy of Art University’s programs and degrees, which range from fine art to fashion, please visit: http://www.academyart.edu/

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THE FUTURE A tale about fashion, style and the struggle for the new

Photography: Thomas Sing (www.thomas-sing.de) Art Direction: Thomas Sing & Chiara Padovan (www.pixerette.com) Illustration: Andrea Padovan (andreapadovan.daportfolio.com) Hair & Make-Up: Daniela Schatz (www.make-up-art.com) Styling: Chiara Padovan Models: Vero Jack @MostWantedModels, Miseong @MostWantedModels


(left) Pink gloves by Armani Jeans, Hat Hutcouture by Sylvia M端ller


58 (left) Leotard by Aria, all white material made by stylist, Chiara Padovan; (right) All stylist’s own



60(left) Dyed fox tail courtesy of Atelier Gerner (www.pelz-gerner.de)



(left) All stylist’s own


(right) Fur outfit made by the stylist; mixed fur courtesy of Atelier Gerner


(right) Lycra catsuit by Fets Fash

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Inspirations: For this project we decided to mix media, combining studio photographs with black & white illustration. We wanted to create a not so far future between science-fiction and noir comics. Inspirations for the city were certainly cult movies like Brazil, Blade Runner and the 5th Element and we had to think of Frank Miller and Roy Liechtenstein a lot! The background was illustrated mixing hand-drawing, 3D and 2D graphics. Our heroine should stay above the trend, we wanted her to be zen, futuristic and classy at once. Therefore the choice of the colours - black, white and red. She should be determined like Star Wars’ Princess Leya, but also pure like the Childlike Empress in the Neverending Story. The billboards in the city should reflect a technologic culture with a strictly coded style, so we opted for static poses and geometrical, stiff clothing. Suburbia should represent a contrast to this wellorganized and mannered world. We chose metal and fur as the two main styling themes for the “underground” - first to convey an aggressive attitude, either sharp or wild, but also to remind people of recyclable materials in a world where resources are limited. (All fur used is recycled fur!) For the beauty part, we wanted to emphasize hair as a distinguishing feature, using extensions or hats to emphasize the proportions of the head. (For there is a lot of brain work about fashion.) We didn’t want to make a steady statement about the future of fashion; that’s why in the end we left the question open to anyone’s creativity. We hope the viewers will enjoy our little story and be inspired to an answer of their own.

Thomas Sing

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Dance Music in Dubai w/ DJ Anmol Pinto Written by Andréa Niemand-Ferreira; Edited by Elvia Francis

Twenty-four-year-old Anmol Pinto is a South Asian DJ and music producer from Dubai. It was with the help of his brother that Pinto managed to land his first gig at a small local club, called TOUCH. Pinto recalls his shock making the transition from the bedroom to the club telling us that his first performance was “very dodgy, to say the least.” But what he lacked in mixing skills at the time, he made up for in song selection and instantly won the crowd over. We asked him how he learned to hone his skills, to which he replied: “Just kept at it, practising in my bedroom” while “sleeping and eating very little [laughs] .” Pinto made his first “big break” playing at a popular United Kingdom club night promoted by Pukka Up, which also featured DJ Rob Wilder and (UK House-Music duo) Basement Jaxx vocalist Vula Malinga. Only a few short months after entering the scene, Pinto gained considerable recognition that secured him several gigs and residencies throughout Dubai’s ever-expanding club scene. Pinto is currently signed with an upcoming German electronic-music label, VEMK Records, who picked him up after the success of his first original track called “Jumierah Jane,” which had over one thousand downloads within a month of its release. Pinto’s musical background has been very diverse--from being a drummer for a local rock band to a Paul van Dykinspired dance and trance music DJ. Pinto says he listens to all types of music, “but electronic music is definitely the one” he identifies with the most. Pinto is deeply passionate about electronic music, so much so that he informs us, “It really is a 24/7 thing. It’s on the minute I wake up and the last thing I listen to before I sleep!” Pinto is still a local DJ in Dubai and hasn’t had any international offers yet, but he says, “The market is currently over-saturated with DJs. Everybody and their mom is a DJ, so it’s harder than ever before to get your name out there.” We asked Pinto if he were to play anywhere in the world, where would he play and he replied, “To say Ibiza (Spain) is a cliché, but it’s true! Playing a set at (nightclub) Space Ibiza is every DJ’s wet dream.” Pinto would love to collaborate with either (progressive/electro-house music DJ) Joel Zimmerman, popularly known as Deadmau5, or (Swedish producer/DJ) Eric Prydz, simply because he views both of them as “musical geniuses.”

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MOCK: Do you think electronic music is evolving, or has it reached its peak in terms of originality? DJ Anmol Pinto: “I think all music is constantly evolving. Genres are always getting mashed up together and there is a never-ending desire of producers to create the “next big sound.” Dubstep is definitely the future in terms of electronic music and production but I don’t see it taking over house music in terms of marketability.” MOCK: How big is the dance and electronic music scene in Dubai? How does it compare with Europe? DJ Anmol Pinto: “Well, the scene in Dubai is very commercial, it’s more about the champagne and VIP tables here than it is [about] music. But, like the city itself, the scene is very young, so it will take a good few years/decades for it to mature.” MOCK: What projects are you working on for 2010? DJ Anmol Pinto: “Right now I’m just locking myself up in my studio and producing. So yeah, hopefully by the end of this year I should have some sort of album ready and hopefully get some gigs internationally.”

Learn more about the emergence of dance music in Dubai by reading this informative article in Time Out Dubai: http://www.timeoutdubai.com/nightlife/features/7834dance-music-in-dubai To keep up-to-date with DJ Anmol Pinto and to listen to his DJ mixes, please visit: http://www.myspace.com/anmolpinto

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Hannah Stouffer Written by Elvia Francis

Twenty-nine-year-old Los Angeles-based illustrator, Hannah Stouffer was raised in Aspen (Colorado), and currently resides “somewhere between Los Angeles and New York City.” Through her artwork, Stouffer addresses contrasts—of darkness and light, different periods of time, subcultures and social trends—and the ever-present existence of differences drives Stouffer to explore the greatest struggle that we endure, which is our own imminent contradiction. Stouffer’s work conveys love, lust, gore, decadence, wrath, and fate. Her work is an opulent, elegant, and beautifully intricate mixture of illustration, design, nostalgic animalia, and emotion. Her densely packed configurations consciously focuses on contrasts, as her artistic work recalls classical elements and combines them with modern attractions. The following inspires Stouffer and her artwork: “mystic places, psychic powers, spirit summonings, ancient wisdom and secret sects, hauntings, powers of healing, the search for the soul, transformations [in life], time and space, magical arts, cosmic connections, [the notion of] mind over matter, mysterious creatures, visions and prophecies, occult sciences, phantom encounters, and psychic voyages.” Stouffer is a supremely well-known and established artist. She has shown in various art galleries/ spaces—from a group show at Houston’s Domy Books to a solo exhibit at Los Angeles’ Show Cave and 554 Gallery—and has been featured in several publications, i.e. Frank 151, SOMA Magazine, XLR8R Magazine, and Juxtapoz Magazine. Stouffer also has completed considerable commercial works for clients like Disney, American Express, Dell, Sony, Camel (cigarettes), Sansa (portable mp3 player), Coca-Cola, Secret (deodarant/antiperspirant), Benefit Cosmetics, Chronicle Books, Au Revoir Simone, Nike, Blik (wall decals/graphics), AG Jeans, Cuervo Tequlia, Rocket Dog and Vans (shoes), to name a few. For more on Hannah Stouffer and her artwork, as well as to purchase her works of art—please visit: http://www.grandarray.com/ or http://www.hannahstouffer.com/

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Edith Lebeau Written by Elvia Francis

Twenty-seven-year-old Edith Lebeau grew up in Beloeil, a small town in southwestern Quebec, Canada on the Richelieu River (east of Montreal), and currently resides in the Canadian city of Laval, in southwestern Quebec. Her mother and father were also artists, so this helped to nurture her creative talent. She attained a Bachelor of Fine Arts degree in 2005 at l’Université du Québec à Montreal, one of four universities in Montreal. Since an early age, Lebeau was always fascinated with superheroes and villains and this has highly influenced her present day work. The women she portrays in her paintings have a strong energy or aura about them. What matters to Lebeau is “the way the character tells the story to the viewer” through “their expression and the emotion they exude.” However, the story is often blurred in order to encourage the viewer to create their own synopsis of the art work/piece. Lebeau’s works often refer to Greek, Roman, and Celtic mythologies, movies, and fairytales. To learn more about Edith Lebeau and her upcoming exhibitions, please visit: http://www.edithlebeau.com/

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Laurie Lipton Written by Elvia Francis Laurie Lipton began drawing at the age of four. Lipton was born in New York, graduated from CarnegieMellon University in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania with a Fine Arts degree in Drawing, has exhibited her work extensively throughout Europe and the U.S.A., and has been residing in London since 1986. Lipton was highly inspired by the religious paintings of the Flemish School, which illuminate with a sense of vitality seldom seen in other periods. She began developing her own drawing technique, building up tone with thousands of fine cross-hatching lines, while she was traveling around Europe as a student. Her drawing technique is very meticulous, but to her “the resulting details and luminosity is worth the amount of effort.” Lipton’s drawings take longer to create than a painting of equal size and detail! When attending university, Lipton’s professors told her that she should express herself using abstract forms and shapes, however she knew what she wanted—to create something no one had ever seen before and something that was stirring in the back of her mind. American writer and photographer, Diane Arbus was a tremendous inspiration to Lipton. Arbus’ photography, which consisted of black-and-white squares of aberrant individuals, hit Lipton “at the core,” resulting in the perfect imagery for Lipton’s artwork. Black-and-white: the color of ancient photographs and old television shows, the color of ghosts, longing, time passing, memory and madness. To see more of Laurie Lipton’s work, please go to http://www.laurielipton.com and a comprehensive book of her artwork, called “Extraordinary Drawings of Laurie Lipton,” is also available for sale at Last Gasp Books: http://www.lastgasp.com/d/35309/

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Komal Sheth Written by Elvia Francis

Twenty-one-year-old Komal Sheth is not your average South Asian (Gujarati) female. Born in Xenia, Ohio and currently living in Tennessee, Sheth is a nomad with a zest for travel, a lesbian who is passionate about equal rights, and an abstract expressionist artist. Sheth believes travelling to new places expands one’s knowledge and perceptions, as she says, “I could live out of my suitcase forever. Traveling to every crest in the world is my goal. Through travelling, I’ve met so many different types of people; it’s allowed me to expand my views on life and incorporate it into my artwork.” Sheth is highly inspred by the influential American painter and major artistic figure in the abstract expressionist movement, Jackson Pollack. Sheth feels that splattering paint “expresses every emotion, and feeling those emotions [through an artistic piece] is the key.”

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Sheth strongly believes “love can conquer everything.” She usually tends to do an art piece for a particular individual, in order to make it as personal as it can be for a person. Sheth says that “anything and everything can be inspirational to me,” as “in my eyes, everything is art. I just want people to look outside of the box, to see things in a different light, and to feel their emotions [through my artwork].” Currently, Sheth does not have a particular website for her art work. However, she does have a blog, where she writes about thought-provoking and entertaining topics relevant to her interests, and features some of her art work (“Eye Candy”): http://shethjuice.wordpress.com/

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Anna Spradley Written by Elvia Francis

Born in New Orleans, Louisiana and currently residing in Houston (Texas), twenty-seven-year-old Anna Spradley is a completely self-taught, up-and-coming artist. With no previous background/knowledge in the arts, Spradley started painting two years ago, while being bedridden and pregnant with her son, Braxton. Initially, Spradley had started to paint in order to release her creative energy. Soon after, she found her passion for the arts, and many of her friends would ask her to create paintings for them—Spradley decided to take her “hobby” to a new level by painting everyday.

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A R T Spradley built her own art studio underneath her house, so that at any moment she is ready to paint and create her work. She quickly became a professional artist and created her own style of art, which some have described as “cartoon-like portraiture.� Spradley specializes in acrylic on canvas and mainly in surrealism. She favors acrylic paint, due to the rapid drying momentum that allows her to have more work completed in a short amount of time. Her paintings often carry Biblical undertones, and are usually inspired by spiritual battles or struggles within her life as well as from topics she discovers in conversation with others. Spradley has been awarded with an outstanding response, as she has painted in live venues for crowds of as many as eight-hundred people at a time, established strong professional relationships, and has quickly gained respect and support from her local creative arts community. Apart from painting, Spradley expresses her creative spirit through writing music and poetry, playing guitar, and acting as well as editing videography. For more information on Anna Spradley, her artwork, and upcoming exhibitions, please visit: http://www. annaspradley.com/

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