PENNAVALLEY climbing

PENNAVALLEY

MATTEO GAMBARO

First edition Dicember 2022

ISBN 978 88 55470 469

Copyright © 2022 VERSANTE SUD – Milano, via Rosso di San Secondo, 1. Ph.. +39 02 7490163 www.versantesud.it

All translation, reproduction, adaptation and electronic registration, either totally or partially, by any methods, are rights reserved for all countries.

Cover image Terminal, Elena Chiappa, Alice Spring, 8a © Klaus Dell‘Orto Text Matteo Gambaro

Drawings and topos Damiano Sessa

English translation Alexandra Ercolani

Maps Tommaso Bacciocchi. © Mapbox, © Open Street Map

Symbols Tommaso Bacciocchi

Layout Elisabetta De Berti

Printing Press Grafica S.r.l. - Gravellona Toce (VB), Italy

ZERO

This is a “zero-miles” guidebook. It’s locally produced!

It has been compiled by local authors, who live and promote climbing in the area reviewed.

Climbers benefit from local authors: – locals know the latest news and updates – locals don’t promote only the most “commercial” spots – locals invest the revenues from the guidebook in equipping new crags

Local authors promote and respect their area: – they review only the spots where climbing is allowed – they pay attention in the same way to any different spot – they meaningfully interact with local actors

Note

Climbing is a potentially dangerous sport in which participation is entirely at your own risk. All the information in this guide has been updated based upon information at the time of publication, however it is vital to evaluate every situation yourself before placing yourself in a life threatening situation or to seek the advice of experienced and qualified individuals.

2% of the proceeds from this guidebook are re-invested in material for re-bolting routes and crags

ZERO miles

This guidebook is homegrown and locally produced

MATTEO GAMBARO

PENNAVALLEY climbing

Crags ranging from Albenga’s hinterland to the lower Cuneo area: Val Neva, Val Pennavaire

General map ......................... 6 Symbols 8 Preface ............................. 10 Thanks 13 Geographic Introduction ............... 14 Technical Introduction 16 Pennavaire story 20 The most difficult pitches 24 ERLI ............................... 28

A BOLTER by Ludovico Spiota 30 01. Erli-Cerisola 32 02. Jungla 36

ARMA VEIRANA by Prof. Fabio Negrino 38 03. Il Circo ......................... 40 LA VAL PENNAVAIRE by Danilo Bo 44 04. Tortuga 46 MARTINETTO 52 05. Cartoons 54 06. Emisfero 56 07. Segreto 62 08. Ippodromo 64 09. Belvedere dei nonni 66 10. Mondo sommerso 70 CASTELBIANCO 72 11. Acquario 76 12. Terminal ........................ 82 13. Granaio 94 14. Erboristeria 98 The leading characters: Davide Ramoino 110 15. Enoteca 114 The leading characters: Fulvio Balbi 116 16. Cineplex 118 17. Gemma 132 18. Castelbianco 136 19. La Ciusa 146 The leading characters: Dinda 148 The leading characters: Luca Biondi 150

COLLETTA 152 20. Telematica 154 21. Caprette 156 22. Guggenheim 158 23. Rettilario 162 24. Colletta 164 25. Dhome 168 26. Reunion 170 27. Famiglia 176

VERAVO 180 28. Hangar 184 29. Rocca Rossa 188 BEFORE THE LAST ROUTE by Marco Pukli 194 30. Malavoglia - Urlo di MunchGrottino Teahupoo 198 31. Bauso Destro 202 32. Bauso Centrale 206 33. Fontana 216 34. Zoo di Berlino 220 35. Galera 222 36. Sagarmatha and Arvè 230 37. Rocca della Garda ............... 234 38. Mistral 238 39. Papapuk - Austria Team - Inferno 242

NASINO ........................... 248 40. Euskal 252 41. Colosseo 260 42. Basura 268 43. Magic Mushroom 272 44. Animal House 278 45. Frantoio ....................... 280 46. Salvadanaio 284 47. Planetarium 286 48. U Buteghin e El Cap 288 49. Hop Farm 292 50. Opera 300 51. Waterloo 304

READING SCHEME

number of visitors beauty splendid worthy nice not exciting

This description takes into account a number of factors which include, besides the beauty of the rock and the pitches, the surrounding environment, how peaceful the area is and anything that can make a crag splendid, beautiful, deserving or not at all interesting This evaluation is personal and individual.

comfort at base

comfortable uncomfortable take care tie in

General indication which evaluates how comfortable the terrain is where one stands to belay. In some crags, even if the majority of the bases below each pitch are comfortable, for some it might be necessary to tie in or balance on a small terrace.

The description takes into account the distance between each protection placed and their position in relation to the route.

very low low medium high parking very good good sufficient difficult

perfect good pay attention terrible

This indication is useful when planning any transfers, especially in case there are many people with more than one car: if the car park is not big enough or difficult to find we recommend to use the least possible number of cars or to use public transport.

This indication refers to the average amount of people found at the crag during the recommended period and with ideal climatic conditions.

falling rocks

IN ALL CRAGS THERE IS THE CHANCE OF ROCK FALL. THE USE OF A HELMET IS ALWAYS RECOMMENDED BOTH FOR THOSE CLIMBING AND FOR THOSE BELAYING!

In crags where this danger is greater and more concrete, the indication YES highly recommends the use of a helmet.

approach time

The indications of how long an approach walk is on foot from the cark park, to the base of the crag or the first sector you reach, is calculated at an average walking speed considering even the weight of the gear (rope, back pack, quick draws, climbing shoes, water, clothes etc). The length of time can vary on the basis of the climatic conditions and terrain. For example in late autumn, some paths may be totally covered by leaves so as well as losing the tracks, walking becomes slower. Same thing happens in case of steep access during hot summer days under the beating sun. The indication is personal and variable depending on other factors which can affect the times of the approach walk.

routes for beginners

This indication highlights the crags which have the ideal pitches for beginners or for anyone climbing for the “first time”. The bolts on these routes are usually very safe and placed nearby even if some exceptions might exist.

fit for family

This indication should not be confused with the presence or not of easier pitches but simply to make it clear if it is possible to reach the base of this crag with small children or if a constant control is needed on the part of the adults. Many crags are often not ideal for families or small children due to exposed ledges, difficult or dangerous approach walks, rock fall, or the presence of a busy road or other objective dangers.

BRINGING CHILDREN INTO A NATURAL ENVIRONMENT IS NONETHELESS RISKY. THE AUTHOR’S INDICATION ONLY TRIES TO HELP ADULTS FIND THE AREAS WITH MINOR OBJECTIVE RISKS. THE FINAL ASSESMENT OF THE AREA AND HOW MUCH ASSISTANCE IS NEEDED FOR THE MINORS IS OBVIOUSLY UP TO THE PARENTS.

qrcode parking

Is it difficult to find the car park? With a simple scan of this code through one of the many available apps it is possible to activate the navigator through your smartphone which will lead you directly to the car park. The coordinates refer to Google maps.

qrcode base of wall

In spite of the effort to make the accesses to the car parks and crags as clear as possible, if it is very difficult to understand where to go, just scan this code you will be able to visualise the crag’s position on Google or other maps.

Preface

This guide book collects and describes the majority of the crags in the area of Val Pennavaire and Val Neva. those which deserve at least one visit, and were bolted during the 80’s up until this day. The aim is to promote and publicise vertical tourism, thus contributing to the development and upkeep of the territory and the crags themselves, which are continuously evolving. Different generations of bolters, from the more zealous and productive to the occasional ones, each and every single one of them with their own personal characteristics, visions, ethics and levels, have explored and enhanced this area, generating the great collective heritage which today is the area of crags of Albenga, or more frequently called Val Pennavaire.

All styles of climbing coexist here: from old school climbing with technical and vertical routes and crags such as Bauso, to Erboristeria’s overhangs and endurance, to the shorter and more explosive sectors. A climbing area which alternates all these styles on crags of high difficulty to easier sectors. All the crags described in this guidebook have the authorisation of the respective bolters to publish their crags and we thank for the great work done.

MY PERSONAL STORY

Living in Cuneo, for many years I sporadically visited these valleys and gradually became aware of the beauty and potential this territory had to offer, until the dream my partner and I had had for a long time finally came true: and that is to move and live in this vertical paradise. A lot of rock has been bolted, but having climbed all of the more difficult lines I began to dedicate my energy to freeing projects which were already bolted but still unrepeated. That is how Blow was born in 2012, the first natural 8c of the valley, which probably represents point “O” of my beginning as a bolter in Val Pennavaire and the development of high difficulty. From there I continued bolting and freeing new difficult lines in the classical sectors: Perfect man 2.0 at the Antro di Castelbianco, the valley’s and Liguria’s first 9a , Anchorage 8c+ at Terminal, Narcissus 9a+ at Erboristeria, Time out 8c at Hangar, Cuore di pietra 8c+/9a at Astronave, Auora 8c+ at Cpr, Resilienza mecanica 8c+ at Euskal, just to list a few of the more important ones, to then dedicate my energy to bolting new entire sectors and portions of existing sectors such as Conservatorio, Cpr, Capradura, Astronave, Caffetteria, Calumet, Rocca della Garda, Hangar, Erboristeria, Cartoon and the more recent Hop Farm, U-Buteghin and El Cap with over 300 bolted routes. A new lease of life for hard climbing and not only, which is added to the pre-existing offer which is always evolving and which has contributed to attracting an increasing number of tourists and top climbers who are also discovering (the same way I did) the great potential and modernity of our territory.

I do hope to consecrate the area of Val Pennavaire as a mecca of modern climbing with this guide book, the fun kind of climbing, safe for the easy and medium difficulties, and at the same time an area which offers those climbers who climb on high difficulty to express their imagination and their wish for long and never ending journeys on overhangs, technical slabs, short and furious routes… because the strength of this valley lies in the different styles which vary from one sector to another and makes each crag a unique and unrepeatable experience.

Enjoy your climbing!

Matteo Gambaro

Matteo Gambaro, Narcissus 9a/+ (© K. Dell‘Orto)

ThanksThere are so many people who I need to thank. From the historical bolters like Ludovico Spiota who, as well as being one of the valley’s first bolters, helped me rebuild the historical path of this guide book. Claudio Laureri, who I have never had the pleasure of meeting but who was the first person to explore the vertical walls of these areas. Fulvio Balbi, who as well as being well known in the Finale area has also contributed to developing these areas with his great intuition in finding beautiful lines. Andrea Gallo, who was the first to realize the great potential of high difficulties bolting the first routes of the Castelbianco cave, laying the foundations of what after many years I was lucky enough to find, re-bolt and then climb the first 9a of Liguria.

Manlio Motto, for having brought his fame by opening Rocca Rossa. The ASD of Ala S.Remo which with its forerunners among them: Roberto Scialla, Peo Vernassa, Davide Ramoino and Flaviano Bessone who have contributed to create the beautiful area of Bauso during the romantic 90’s. Marco Pukli who weaved the unmissable lines all over the valley.

Marco Zambarino who was very active in the upper valley of Caprauna.

Andra Bisio (Dinda) surely the most active and productive, with whom I shared days of true passion and even many ethical differences, but to whom we unquestionably owe credit for having created and believed a lot in this territory.

Luca Biondi (Dinda) who for years was the partner of Andrea Bisio (Dinda and Blond) and with whom I created many sectors among today’s classics.

Danilo Bo with his Erboristeria alta, Cerisola, Jungla, Magic Mushroom, with his high level climbing and bolting gave us many lines.

Paolo Ramó with his simplicity and skill who gave us the beautiful Cimitero dei Camosci and Caprasecca

Carlo Giuliberti who improved and helped me discover Capradura.

Elena Chiappa, my life partner who as well as climbing at top level, has always helped me with bolting and cleaning new sectors as well as being the reference point for the shop Cprfresport. Davide Ramoino who has contributed and sustained my work as a bolter with his shop Cprfresport and with whom, together with Elena, I have organized events, tested climbing shoes and enthusiastically tried to promote our sport.

Vito Pezzolla, inseparable friend who has silently been and always will be my right hand man. Domenico Spatari, active in the Cineplex crags, grotto di alto, Marvel Area, Matteo Felanda and the Asd. Roc Pennavaire for their contribution and with whom we have shared a few sectors.

Many other climbers, bolters, friends and acquaintances can be added to this list who I will try to mention but certainly forgetting someone to whom I apologize in advance: Carlo and Raffa (Bar Neva), Jodi (Bar A Cadana), Giorgia Trucco (Ubuteghin), Samuele Scola (Scolabear), Debora Plodari (Arvè), Il Sig. Ferruccio b&b, b&b 8a, ristoranti Scola, Da Gin and A ca du Ricci, René dell’ Osteria del Castello (Alto), and all other shop owners who believe in our sport. Valle and Corinne, Marco Trucco, Matteo Rolando, Gabriele Franco, Fenocchio Danilo, Gianni Duregato, Lorenzo Fornaro, Luca Bolla, Davide Marnetto, Adriano Giovani, Rossella Burroni, Roberto Capucciati, Alessio Chiappino, Roberto Franco, Federico Rimembrana, Roberto Benvenuti, Guido Jafelice, Maddalena Crudeli, Stella, Gabriele Cingano, Tommy Sigismondi, Lorenzo Bogliacino, Luigi Borge, Umberto Baratta, Maurizio Marcassoli, Domenico Bianchinani, Alex Barbera, Gabriella Torre, Sandro Pansini, Tommaso Pansini, Claudia Giglio, Luca Queirolo, Linda Pierrozzi, Michele Condomiti, Livia Guarino, Verdiana Scola, Lorenzo Doria.

Geographical Introduction

We are in Liguria, between the two provinces of Savona and Imperia, its valleys cross over into the province of Cuneo and the lower Piedmont region. A vast and diversified territory which sets off from the plains of Albenga, where Cisano sul Neva lies, small and welcoming medieval historic centre which has become a meeting point for climbers (bar, technical shops, grocery store), to then head up into Val Neva and Val Pennavaire until the Piedmont region, going up the hills and mountains which reach one thousand metres altitude above sea level. The more representative mountains, on whose slopes the crags rise, lie to the south of Val Pennavaire, monte Castell’Ermo, monte Galero right on the border with Piedmont and the watershed between Neva and Pennavaire, and Poggio Grande, which overlooks the plains of Albenga. Around it there is a thick network of paths and trails which is ideal for trekking and mountain biking: wild paths which run through the woods and charming landscapes, fascinating abandoned villages with stone bridges which run over crystal clear torrents. A network which goes hand in hand with the tourists crossing this territory which is hardly frequented, full of natural caves (Arme), among which we point out the famous Arma Veirana for its recent archaeological findings, or the ones in the area

Val Pennavaire (© Arch. M. Gambaro)

of Aquila Arroscia where karst rock is frequent and very unique. The many historic centres found in the two valleys described in this guide book are worthy of mention. In Val Neva Erli and Castelvecchio di Rocca Barbena should not be missed, this latest one is wedged into the quartzite which overlooks the entire valley. In Val Pennavaire we find the beautiful Colletta di Castelbianco, known as the ‘Telematic village’, completely restored during the early 2000s, and built specifically as a residence for holiday homes, it even has its own pub. Always in Val Pennavaire, where the gradients are not as steep, we find the hamlets of Vesallo and Veravo di Castelbianco, with many historic homes restored in stone and often made into B&Bs. Heading up the valley we find Nasino, divided into many hamlets perched onto the steep slopes among these Capoluogo, Costa, Vignolo and Vignoletto with its beautiful stone walls and the olive trees which make it a beautiful setting. Finally in the upper Val Pennavaire we will find Alto, the first commune in Piedmont with its beautiful castle and tavern, definitely worth a visit after a day of climbing. Capruana with its small historic centre which is far from the sea and begins to have an alpine look about it. Probably the most fascinating thing about this area is the incredible stone bridges which date back to Roman times, and run over the torrents Neva, Pennavaire, and their affluents, a few right along the paths which lead to the crags.

Technical Introduction

Over 40 years of vertical history, created by the work and passion of the many exploring bolters who with a constant and evolutionary process, transformed the unused territory in sporting terms into what today is considered the third vertical centre of northern Italy. After the popular areas of Arco di Trento and the nearby Finale Ligure this is where a true climbing playground is being created, contributing not only to the fun of climbing enthusiasts, but also to the economic development of the hinterland, which experienced a strong crisis before the arrival of outdoor activities especially sports climbing.

The climbing styles are very different: from technical slabs in the Veravo area, to the long overhanging routes requiring endurance near the Pennavaire torrent to the many new rock faces in the woods of the upper valley offering more modern styles which are similar to the climbing style found in Frankenjura.

Val Neva currently has fewer sectors compared to Val Pennavaire, but some of them, such as Cersola and La Jungla, are of very high quality. Val Pennavaire is definitely more structured for climbing and has an increasing number of sectors, from the area of Martinetto running up the valley crossing the communes of Castelbianco, Nasino and Alto until the higher elevations of the Capruana and Aquila d’Arroscia areas. The orographic left hand side tends to face south and has winter crags which are scattered across the whole area and vary from the more classic styles to the more modern ones. Instead, on the opposite side, it enjoys a north facing exposure and has a multitude of summer sectors which are often ventilated, sometimes lightly touched by the Pennavaire torrent with its crystal clear waters, where it is possible to cool down before and after climbing. For all the salt water climbers out there, who dream of crags in Sicily and Greece, where it is possible to combine climbing with a swim in the sea, we remind them that the beautiful beaches of the western Ligurian coasts are only a few minutes away by car!

Being close to Finale Ligure and Toirano, which represent timeless, vertical realities, climbing here offers beautiful and complementary realities, making this area even more attractive. Finally we describe the tourist accommodation: coming to these areas you will discover how welcoming and professional the local shop keepers are, from the climbing shop “Cprfreesport” to the Bar “Neva” and “ A Cadana” at Cisano, who from the word go believed in the miracle that climbing is, becoming the true reference points for climbers, but also of the many shops, bars, restaurants, B&B scattered across the valley, which have contributed over the years to welcome the remarkable increase of local and foreign tourism, as well as giving a marked vertical identity to the area.

The ancient Roman bridge which runs across the river along the path which leads to CPR (© Arch. M. Gambaro)

Guido Jafelice, Resistenza Meccanica 8c (© Federico Rimambrana)

Pennavaire story

by Ludovico Spiota

Valle Pennavaire runs towards the top of Piana di Albenga, it begins at Martinetto, hamlet of the commune of Cisano sul Neva, and ends at Colle di Caprauna, in the Province of Cuneo. On the hydrographic right hand side the valley is dominated by Monte Nero and Castellermo, for a maximum altitude of m 1094 asl, dominated by not very inviting rock faces of stratified limestone which have characterised the formation of towers and belltowers rising from the thick vegetation, almost resembling the more popular Dolomites. So much so that during the 1940’s talking about the “North western Dolomites”, a few courageous alpinists (among these De Marchi from Torino) set up ascents on some of the pinnacles and slabs, but the rock was not at all friendly and this did not favour the development of further alpinism/climbing of the area. They say that Cesare Maestri during the second half of the 1950’s, probably while he was in the area convalescing from some injuries, touched these rock faces but only an echo of his feats remain, like that lost in the wind of the blows of his hammer on the pegs in the cracks. The true climbing story of Valle Pennavaire begins at the end of 1989, when Claudio Laureri together with Angela Correggia in the territory of Caprauna equipped the first two routes on what will then become the rock face of Rocca dell’Arma: the die is cast. The sector Rocca dell’Arma will be the highest one, around 1500m asl, and will take form in 1990 by bolting a dozen routes on its beautiful rocks.

But Cladio Laureri will not stop at Capruana, and going down (in this case towards the sea) looking for other more beautiful sectors, in the year 1991 will reach Castelbianco discovering Bauso, definitely among the most featured and interesting structure of the Valley, bolting some amazing rock steps, such as Malavoglia and la Fontana, this one with its reference route: Il Castigo

Rumors spread quickly among bolters and reached the ears of the great guru of Finale. Fulvio Balbi between 1991 and 1992 on the Bauso rock faces set up masterpieces which marked the historical significance of the rock and of climbing in the area, and this is how Kramer contro Kramer was born; without forgetting other incredible pitches, such as Let’s Play or the nearby Bella e Impossibile

During that year the first top climbers started coming to the Valley, at least the local climbers, and in 1992 Andrea Gallo and Guido Cortese set up their personal climbing construction site under the overhangs of the Antro di Castelbianco and in a few months the first routes of 8th grade came to light. But Andrea did more. Being the visionary he was he set up a route which remained untouched for many years: Perfect Man. But his long term outlook brought him to never touch, or even worse, to “tame” the route so as to climb it, distorting its difficulty, since he believed that if he could not climb the route, sooner or later someone else would have achieved this feat. The undertaking was achieved in 2016, when Matteo Gambaro arrived at Antro and after entirely re bolting the line, cleaned the rock and found possible sequences, and after a few attempts managed to free it (climbing straight up the line of bolts), offering the grade of 9a, which will be later confirmed the successive year by Adam Ondra’s first repetition.

But this sector’s story perfectly narrates how the local Ligurian climbers traditionally were very welcoming to ‘outsiders’ , so much so that a kid standing under an overhang disturbed the bolter so much with all is his questions that he was moved away in a not very sociable manner, and this fact was successively remembered with the routes ‘Vattene’ (go away) and ‘Era Ora’ (it was about time) Without naming anyone, that kid from Savona went onto become one of the best Italian climbers, and

Cristina Andrei at Bauso (© R. Benvenuti)

world champion more than once…

But we have to step back in time. At the end of the 70s another well known climber from Finale, Luciano Pizzorni had noticed the slabs of Castellermo and by climbing trad and with a difficult fight against the intricate Mediterranean bush he managed to set up a few routes. Throughout his exploration Luciano presumably was the first climber to reach Rocca Rossa where he climbed the first pitch of what would become a multi pitch route. Personal circumstances kept him away from that attempt and it all went lost until in 1992 Rocca Rossa or Mezzaluna (half moon) for its characteristic shape (name given to it by the local climbers) was re-discovered by Claudio Laureri who opened two or three routes here. The tales of “Mezzaluna’s” beautiful rock crossed over the border above Valle Pennavaire and reached the ears of Manlio Motto, who during that period was busy opening routes from the ground up even on Mongioie (that is the mountain straight behind Valle Pennavaire). All the routes opened by Manlio on Rocca Rossa are characterised by opening the routes from the ground up, placing bolts far away, and obligatory moves.

Summer arrives and it gets hot even in Valle Pennavaire. All the sectors which have been explored up until now are winter sectors, therefore with the summer season heat it is impossible to climb. Fulvio Balbi once again looking for new slabs to climb, wandering the valley of Rio Croso (Pennavaire’s main affluent) reaches Rocca del Re, even if it doesn’t resemble a king (Re) that much. The regime’s cartographers, once reached this area during the 1930’s and asked the locals what the name of the rock face was, and in their local dialect answered: “Rocca durà”. The cartographers then to keep close to the original name, but at the same time keeping the Savoia family happy called it “Rocca del Re”, but translated from the local dialect Rocca Durà means golden fortress, due to the colour the western face turns into when the sun sets.

Fulvio on that slab of smooth limestone opened a dozen routes, and not happy, he managed to bring along a true king of climbing: Patrick Berhault. Obviously all the grades on this face come from the great Berhault’s strict metre of measurement.

In 1994 even the A.L.A. San Remo arrived, and with climbers such as Roberto Scialli, Peo Vernassa (the never tiring) Davide Ramoino, Flaviano Bessone leave their mark, opening small masterpieces, in particular at Bauso Centrale, such as ‘Thecosmilia’ (which carries the same name of the fossilized branch of coral on the rock which lies on the edge of the road which runs up to Vesallo), ‘Nefertiti’ or ‘400 giorni dopo’, as ‘Fontana’ , ‘Timida’ or ‘Dulfer in Fundo’.

During the 90’s even Lodovico Spiota, who had moved to Albenga, started the first work of restyling/ rebolting of a few sectors using resin, beginning with Malavoglia and then continuing to Bauso Destro. But not only, he explored even the sectors of the Lower valley, cleaning and bolting the first slab on the hydrographic right hand side of Rio Pennavaire: the Placca degli Scorpioni called this way because up until that moment it was the undisputed kingdom of scorpions. He also went on to bolt the first routes at Terminal to then move over, with Fabio Vivalda and Paolo Brusasco to Caprauna, rebolting, in 1999, almost all of the routes of Rocca dell’Arma and opening various new ones. Marco Pukli does not lag behind and bolted many routes first of all with the guys of A.L.A Sanremo during the early 90’s to then freely move around with his wife Sabina Mao, discovering beautiful sectors such as Papapuk at Rocca della Garda, or the sector carrying the same name Pukli at Terminal, setting up very elegant lines.

In 1998 Lodovico Spiota and Marco Pukli, with a project financed by the Province of Savona carried out the restyling of all the routes of Bauso Centrale, giving this structure its prestige back since it

was losing appeal compared to areas in the lower valley.

In 2000 even Marco Zambarino arrived, another top bolter from the Finale area, and concentrated his efforts in the upper Valley area, in the communes of Alto and Capruana, looking for and bolting new rock faces and sectors.

During the year 2000 the development of climbing in the Valley shifts gears, but above all gradient, with the arrival of Andrea Bisio (Dinda) and Luca Biondi (Blond) who with great effort systematically bolted the overhanging sectors at the bottom of the valley. This is how the sectors Emisfero at the entrance of the valley, Terminal, Cineplex, Reunion are born, and in the upper valley in the commune of Alto, the amazing Red Up is born, its left hand side wall is characterized by a series of overhanging tufas on red rock. But what will allow the group of Dinda and Blond to stand out is the awareness that creating a ‘rockodrome’, makes the safety of the routes a dominating factor, this entails lots of maintenance and upkeep.

In 2012 the group creates the Association Rocpennavaire, with the main objective of developing new sectors increasing the interest for climbing in the valley. From here the first B&bs are born together with vertical tourism, especially foreign tourism increases.

In 2011 Matteo Gambaro begins visiting the valley and after climbing all the difficult lines present, his attempts on the unrepeated or unclimbed projects begin (the valley’s first 8c is born in 2012) he then bolts new routes looking for extreme grades in the main sectors which already exist: among the most famous: Perfect man 2.0 9a at Antro di Castelbianco, Anchorage 8c+ at Terminal, Narcissus 9a/+ Erboristeria, Time out 8c and Hangargames 8c+ at Hangar Resistenza 8c and Resilienza Meccanica 8c+ at Euskal, Occhio alla Penna 8c at Calumet... to then bolt entire new sectors and new portions such as Conservatorio, Cpr, Il Calumet, Cartoon, La Rocca della Garda, Hangar, Capradura (financed by the shop Cprfreesport at Cisano sul Neva established by Davide Ramoinol) and HopFarm (financed by Samuele Scola/brewery), Buteghin and currently under way El Cap (financed by Versante Sud), thus bringing a remarkable contribution and breakthrough in terms of high difficulty.

The most difficult pitches

9a+ NARCISSUS

Erboristeria bassa Matteo Gambaro 2020

9a PERFECT MAN 2.0 Castelbianco Matteo Gambaro 2015

8c+/9a

8c+

CUORE DI PIETRA Astronave

ANCHORAGE Terminal

Matteo Gambaro 2022

Matteo Gambaro 2016

8 ANNI DOPO Cineplex Matteo Gambaro 2020

RESILIENZA MECANICA Euskal Matteo Gambaro 2020

HANGAR GAMES Angar Matteo Gambaro 2018

TITANATA Astronave Matteo Gambaro 2017

AURORA CPR Matteo Gambaro 2018

8c/+ LAST MAN Castelbianco Matteo Gambaro 2014

8c

BLOW Cineplex

Matteo Gambaro 2012

TIME OUT Hangar Matteo Gambaro 2015

PREMIERE Castelbianco Stefano Ghisolfi 2014

CALMIAMOCI Erboristeria Bassa Matteo Gambaro 2016

RESISTENCIA MECANICA Euskal Matteo Gambaro 2017

GUNNY Hangar Matteo Gambaro 2018

OCCHIO ALLA PENNA Camulet Matteo Gambaro 2017

TITANUS Astronave Matteo Gambaro 2018

100x100 ARABICA Caffetteria

Matteo Gambaro 2021

ROBUSTA Caffetteria Alberto Gotta 2017

BOCELLI Conservatorio Matteo Gambaro 2017 44 MAGNUM CPR Matteo Gambaro 2018

PINO CONNECTION Castelbianco Matteo Gambaro 2016

MANHATTAN Quartiere Matteo Gambaro 2015

LODE AL CAMMELLO Cerisola Matteo Gambaro 2021

MI PIACCIONO LE SBARBINE Teahupoo Lorenzo Fornaro 2021

8b+/c

SEVEDEMOS

Euskal

Severino Scassa 2002

KALIPÉ Calumet Matteo Gambaro 2020

SUKA Castelbianco Matteo Pino 2005

8b+

MOKA

Caffetteria

Matteo Gambaro 2014

SPACE SHUTTLE Erboristeria Bassa Matteo Gambaro 2016

RODIOLA ROSEA Erboristeria Bassa Matteo Gambaro 2016

IO NO Rocca della Garda Matteo Gambaro 2016

DOGON Hangar Lorenzo Fornaro 2014

DURA NATURA Hangar Lorenzo Fornaro 2014

START AND STOP Box Matteo Gambaro 2020

8b

PROMETHEUS

Astronave

Matteo Gambaro 2016

TITANA Astronave Matteo Gambaro 2017

LA SGAMBARATA CPR Matteo Gambaro 2018

LO SCALPO Camulet Matteo Gambaro 2018

OPEN Capradura Matteo Gambaro 2021

TEPEE Camulet Matteo Gambaro 2019

OCCHIO DI RHA CPR Matteo Gambaro 2018 ET Astronave Matteo Gambaro 2017

LEXOTAN Astronave Matteo Gambaro 2019

THE SHINING Cineplex Matteo Gambaro 2020

XTC Teahupoo Lorenzo Fornaro 2021

ALOE VERA

Erboristeria Bassa Matteo Gambaro 2016

ANICE STELLATO Erboristeria Bassa Matteo Gambaro 2016

PEPPER LINE Erboristeria Alta Matteo Pino 2008

CHAY Erboristeria Alta Matteo Gambaro 2015

PEARL HARBOR Cineplex Matteo Gambaro 2011

BLACK RAIN Cineplex Matteo Gambaro 2011

IL RITORNO DELLO JEDI Cineplex Matteo Gambaro 2016

FIRE MAN Castelbianco Gianni Duregato 2002

GERARD CALLEGAR Castelbianco Matteo Pino 2002

BURIAN Mistral Matteo Gambaro 2020

BRUTTA NATURA Hangar Matteo Gambaro 2018

START AND GO Box Matteo Gambaro 2020

CASSIOPEA Planetarium

Luca Biondi 2004

SUD PACIFICO Red Up Matteo Gambaro 2014

DIECI CENTS A BALLO Red Up Matteo Pino 2002

TORRE PENDENTE Red Up Andrea Bisio 2002

K.J.JONES Marvel Area Domingo Spatari 2017

JAMES GORDON MEMORIAL Cimitero dei Camosci

Carlo Giuliberti 2015

REPULSION Grotta di Alto Severino Scassa 2001

BLACK DAYS Grotta di Alto Domingo Spatari 2001

BUTT BONGO Grotta di Alto Andrea Bisio 2001

HOMORUDOLFENSIS Sorgente Andrea Bisio 2005

COLLINO Caffetteria Matteo Gambaro 2017

APOLLO13 Astronave Matteo Gambaro 2016

COMANCHE Camulet Matteo Gambaro 2016

METTITI IN GINOCCHIO Capradura

Matteo Gambaro 2020 F.F.A. Elena Chiappa 2020

LAMBINC Hop Farm Matteo Gambaro 2021

GOLIA FOR PRESIDENT Cerisola Danilo Bo 2005

IGA Hop Farm Matteo Gambaro 2021

INTERMEZZO Opera Matteo Gambaro 2022

Walking towards Erboristeria (© K. Dell‘Orto)

ERLI

This first area identifies Val Neva which connects Cisano sul Neva (SV) to Garessio (Cn) along the sp 582 of Colle di S.Bernardo. This valley develops transversely to Val Pennavaire and currently offers a few sectors in the lower valley among these Tortuga and Il Circo, near the village of Erli we find the Giungla and in the upper valley (which already lies in the province of Cuneo) at 30 minutes by car from Cisano “Cerisola”, surely the queen of the valley. There is still a lot to discover and there are new crags which are being bolted across the territory which still need to be enhanced. The climbing almost always offers an excellent quality limestone with different styles: from the tufas and red winter walls to athletic overhangs and the easier routes of Tortuga, to the more severe walls of Giungla to finish with the queen of valle Cersola which even if quite difficult is an unmissable summer spot.

The crag of Erli (© Arch. Versante Sud) 

A BOLTER

by Ludovico Spiota

Lodovico Spiota was one of the pioneers of these areas, discovering new crags and re-bolting a few of the first routes in the valley, giving them a modern outlook transforming them into crags. His activity varies from the orographic right hand side of the valley with Placca degli Scorpioni to Terminal and the large bastion of Bauso on the higher part of the left hand side, until reaching the rock faces on the upper part of the valley with Rocca dell’Arma. Lodovico is an explorer, a bolter, but he also represents the memory of alpinism in this valley, he wrote this guide book’s historical introduction. Here below some of his thoughts on what a bolter is.

A bolter. “A bolter ...?” Practically this question sounds like the Manzonian memory: “Carneade…? Who was he…”, Don Abbondio asked himself. Indeed. Who is a “bolter?”. Many will have the right answer, like an essay written at school, when you didn’t have to think too hard, or have to reason, the response was immediate: the bricklayer of crags. That is what a bolter is. But that is simplifying things too much. A bolter is a climber who has something extra within: the curiosity to explore, to look beyond the surrounding environment which we all know too well, they are simply dreamers, certainly a bit crazy, but they are dreamers who imagine and look for new spaces for the game. Inside each bolter an “Ulysisses” hides, with his folly which leads him continuously to travel, looking for something new, possibly extraordinary, an Ulysses who already has a home, incredibly beautiful and unique, such as the Finale crags, but those are not enough, because his hunger for exploration leads him to find something beyond those Pillars of Hercules which are Capo Noli and Capra zoppa, the limits of the Finale area. Yes. The limits…what an ugly word…

And so, that bolter, just like Ulysses, addresses his friends and involves them, in his dreams: “ ..Con-

sider your seed, you were not made to live like brutes but to be virtue and knowledge ..” And it is with these words, that the Crook of Ilium relying on his climbing friends, will describe the apocalyptic slabs with sharp crimps which cannot even be found in Sardinia, who will narrate of overhangs with big jugs and the perfection of a rock which has never been seen before.

And this is how, with the mood of a dreamer that new sectors are born, and sometimes entire new valleys.

Ludovico Spiota (© Arch. Spiota) 

NORTH/EAST

A nice summer crag which faces north/east, situated in the hamlet of Erli-Cersola in the commune of Garessio, but at the border with Erli; it offers grey, red and white overhanging walls, with medium and top level routes with always excellent quality rock with tufas pockets and edges. Discovered by local climbers it was entirely bolted in 2005 by Danilo Bo who enhanced and equipped the entire crag with sixty or so lines offering sustained difficulties. Due to its exposure and the relative altitude it is ideal during the spring time summer and autumn months.

ACCESS

From Cisano sul Neva follow the ss582 towards Garessio; go past the towns of Zuccarello, and Erli until you turn left at the junction which leads downhill to the hamlet of Cerisola. Park in the church’s main square (roughly 20km from the Albenga motorway toll A/10).

Go across the town on the right, past a square with fountain and go uphill which ends with a bend to the left. From here a path sets off (cairn) which in 5 minutes leads to the base of the crag.

Garessio

Cerisola Albenga

1. RACKY STRIKE

7a 15m Vertical wall

2. PINO GRIGIO 7a+ 15m Nice section 3. ELLI PELLY 6b+ 15m One of the few grade 6 routes 4. STRENS 7a 15m Never simple 5. EDO ONE KENOBY 6c 15m Excellent warm up 6. VUOTO INTERNO 6b 17m Nice technical slab 7. TUTTO IL MONDO REGARDA 7a 20m Technical and fingery 8. AIEIE BRAZOR 7a+ 20m Overhanging line requiring endurance 9. TALORA 6c 18m As for the previous but easier 10. LA BARATTOLA 7a 20m 11. BOGGLES 7a+ 20m Nice featured wall 12. ROCCIA O RICCIA

P1 7a 20m P2 7c+ 40m Beautiful pitch on grey streak 13. SALSICCI 7b+ 25m Overhanging, requires movement with airy crux 14. LATIN LOVER 7c 35m Another 5 star line 15. LITTLE ANCELO 7a+ 18m 16. ARRIVA IL SOLE P1 7b+ 25m P2 7c, 40m. Endurance on overhang 17. UN MONDO SOMMERSO P1 7b+ 25m P2 7c, 40m. Endurance on overhang 18. CUORE DI PANNA P1 7b 25m P2 7b+, 40m 19. NOKO GOES TO HOLLYWOOD P1 7b 25m P2 7b+, 40m. Endurance 20. NANI A CASA 7c 28m The name says it all (the kids are home) 21. GOD MOVES IN MYSTERIUS WAYS 8a+ 28m Difficult line, engaging

Pennavaire > Erli Erli-Cerisola

RADIO RADIO 8a 27m 23. GOLIA FOR PRESIDENT 8b 28m Another difficult line not to be missed 24. THE QUEEN OF THE CUSHION 7c+ 27m Overhang requiring strength 25. LA PUPATA ? 27m Project 26. SPIT NON SONO FIORI 7a 27m 27. LODE ALLA VITA ? 38m Project 28. LODE AL CAMMELLO 8c 38m After P1 good rest it follows the wall with tufas with increasing difficulties. F.A. M.Gambaro 29. LA CAMMELLATA P1 7c+ P2 Project 38m 30. DEI FOR ONE DAY 7c 20m 31. LA CORVEIRA 7a+ 20m 32. SE VOLI SORRIDI 8a 35m Nice line, bolts are distant 33. FOR BRITTA 7c 35m Endurance and strong mind required 34. IL PATRIARCA 7b+ 30m (anchor on the right) 35. ORO PRONOBS 7b+ 30m (anchor on the left) 36. ALONE CAME NEO 8a 27m Grey wall on difficult tufas 37. NEWTONIA 7c+ 25m Section on tufas and engaging exit 38. PORKART ? 25m Project 39. TROMBOBORDO 7b+ 25m Intense section 40. ORECCHIE A PUNTA 7b 25m 41. VALDERRAMA’S MOTHER 7a 25m Overhang on oblique crack and great endurance 42. GELFETTO 7b 25m Wall not impossible requires endurance

TURANZA 7b 25m

PIETRA MADRE 7c+ 20m

SEWING MACHINE 7c+ 20m

MAGGIO ? 20m Project

JELLY BAEBIS 7b+ 20m Grey rock and excellent quality

MACIUCHIN 7c+ 25m Unmissable pitch

IL PACCARO NON MENTE 7b+ 25m Very delicate and fingery 50. SMARTYLAND 7b 25m 51. IMPARA A BAILAR 7a 20m 52. ABIDUNGASA ? 20m Project 53. BOMBOLONE 7a 20m Technical slab 54. DONNE DI PIETRA 7a+ Technical slab

SOPRA

LA CENGIA

CHE GEST ? 18m Project

JCL ? 18m Project

ANIMA LIBERA ? 18m Project

STANDING OVATION ? 18m Project

Andrea Tuxe (© Roby Benvenuti)

59. OTO FENI 6b 25m 60. PABLO PICASSO 7a 25m 61. FERTILIA 6a 25m 62. 7a 30m Start in common with the successive 63. KOTOKO 7b 30m 64. PANERO 7a 30m 65. AIROK 7a+ 30m 66. VIA D’AMOR 7b+ 30m After the first part it tackles the difficult overhang 67. LA FOLLE SPERANZA 6c 30m It climbs up the enormous tufa, one of the valley’s best 68. POOK 7a not to be missed 69. BLAGNAK 7a+ 25m One of the most recent. Cheeky exit 70. REUSS 6c+ 25m 71. NON CONCLUDE 6b 25m Climbs up beautiful limestone formations 72. WEZEE 7a 25m 73. CANNAMAO 6c 25m It follows the evident and beautiful tufa 74. L’ESSERE E IL NULLA 6c+ 25m 75. MARAQUAIA’ 7a 25m Yellow/red technical wall 76. GATWICK 6c+ 20m 77. HEATROW 7b+ 20m Difficult overhang a bit exposed 78. LUTON 7b 20m 79. KANSAI 7a+ 20m

80. DUPONG 6c+ 17m 81. PRAT 6c+ 17m 82. BORISPOL 6b+ 17m 83. TEGEL 6b+ 17m 84. BARAJAS 6a 17m Start in common with 83 85. GEORGE BEST 5c 15m 86. OKECIE 6a+ 15m 87. AFUTARA 6c 18m 88. 89. SAQANI 7b 18m 90. WALLA WALLA 7a+ 18m 91. TAMBO 7a 18m Overhang on edges with intense tufas 92. AVU AVU 7b+ 18m 93. HANEDA 7c 18m 94. ZAKOUMA 5c 12m Difficult section read correctly 95. ATAQ 7b 18m 96. KUFRA 7a 17m 97. ALGEL FIRE 7a+ 98. 99. EZEIZA 6a 17m

RIGHT HAND SECTOR

Elena Chiappa, Alice spring 8a (© K.Dell‘Orto)

Val Pennavaire

> Castelbianco Granaio

C M Y CM MY CY CMY K

Frauke Sophie Seeber, Quinoa 7a (© Jakob Hösel)

Al Forte, 9a appartamenti ad Arnasco

Al Forte, 9a

ERBORISTERIA

A great summer crag, easy to access, divided in the upper part, into a central and lower sector, it represents one of the most important attractions of the valley. It offers an athletic kind of climbing but there are also technical pitches on vertical walls of great endurance. Bolted since 2006 by A.Bisio in terms of the lower sector and by D.Bo on the upper sector, it progressively experiences the birth, the new interpretation and rebolting of many of the medium difficulty routes. In 2016 M.Gambaro, finding possible lines on the top roofs of the lower part bolts and frees new projects creating some of the valley’s most difficult and fascinating routes of the valley.

In 2019 the Asd Rocpennavaire/A.Bisio bolt the central part along the ledge with a few medium/high difficult routes which are still currently new and have few ascents (be careful and wear a helmet).

Ideal during spring time and autumn when it is very busy, it is also much appreciated during the summer months due to its exposure and ventilation.

Castelbianco

Martinetto

ACCESS

As for Terminal, Cineplex and other minor sectors from Cisano sul Neva (Sv) follow Val Pennavaire at the junction di Martinetto towards Castelbianco and after roughly 4,5 km park on the first bend and/ or after the agriturismo “Da Ferruccio” where it is possible.

Take the paved path which runs down from the hair pin bend in front of the agriturismo “Da Ferruccio”, go past the torrent across the characteristic S.Pietro bridge. From here continue along the path which leads towards the crag and on the right take the junction for the lower and central sectors. 5 minutes from the car park. For the upper sector continue along the path which heads up until it turns to the right (cairn). From here follow the track which leads to the base of the sector. 10 minutes from the car park.

Erboristeria (© Arch. Versante Sud)

134

30 metres further over to the right: 18. fixed rope 30m 19. 30m 20. 30m 21. 25m 22. 30m 23. HOPE 7c 20m 24. PINK STAR 7b 25m 25. fixed rope 30 metres further over to the right: 26. SFENE 7a 20m 27. AGATA 6b+ 20m 28. ACQUAMARINA 6a 18m 29. ZAFFIRO 6a 18m 30. PERLA 6a 30m

7a 6c+ 6c+ 6c 6c 6c 6a+

6b

26

7c+ 7c 7b 7a 6b+ 6a 6a 27 28 29 30 21 22 23 24

RED ROCK

30m P1+ P2 8a 50m, P3 7a (P4 of 18) 80mt M. Gambaro 2021. It is possible to join up the first two pitches into one single route which is beautiful and aesthetic but a 100m rope is needed if not manoeuvring on the anchor is required. P1 for the descent

UN SEICIPIU’ 6c+ 15m

UN SEIBI 6b 15m

LE TARANTOLE DANNO ALLA TESTA P1 6b, P2 5c, P3 7a/A0, P4 6b, P5 7a+ (6a obbl.) 130m F.Vivalda/G.Ghibaudo 2006

LA PULCE D’ACQUA P1 6c P2 6c, P3 6b+, P4 6b (6b obbl.) 80m C.Laureri/A.Correggia/P.Raimondo 1992

BO’ EXTENSION P1 5c P2 7a+ 50m D.Bò 2005

SGROPPATA FINALE 6a+ 30m C.Laureri/A.Correggia 1992

Pieter van Duin, Operazione Papero L3 (© Palma Lanfredi)

Val Pennavaire

> Veravo Rocca Rossa

Autumnal view of Rocca Rossa (© Palma Lanfredi)

Guido Jafelice, Resistenza Meccanica, 8c (© F. Rimembrana)

One of the valley’s unmissable winter crags which offers athletic routes of medium and high level on excellent limestone characterised by red and yellow overhanging walls with mainly edges on the left side, a large roof on the central part with the more complex routes and a marked overhang with tufas and large holds on the right side with a few of the most athletic and fun routes of the area.

Bolted by A.Bisio and L. Biondi starting from 2001 for almost all of the routes, as well as S. Scassa who added the first route of 8b+ and last but not least in 2018 M.Gambaro who enhanced the crag bolting two lines of 8c and 8c+. It has enjoyed a nice restyling by Asd Rocpennavaire on a few of the routes.

ACCESS

From Cisano sul Neva (Sv) at the junction of Martinetto go towards Val Pennavaire in the direction of Castelbianco; go past the town, after roughly 2 km, park on the left level with a peat deposit, from where the crag is evident on the right.

From here on foot take the path which sets off just beyond the car park on the right and leads to the base of the sector climbing up the hair pin bends among the stone walls in roughly 15 minutes from the car park.

Elisa Balletto, Esfuerzo 7b+/c (© R. Benvenuti)

15m

15m

overhang on tufas

15m

15m

15m

15m

15m

15m

Matteo Gambaro, 100% Arabica, 8c (© F.Rimembrana)

Elena Chiappa, Arabesco, 8a+ (© Arch. M. Gambaro)

CAFFETTERIA SECTOR

1. CREMOSO

6c 15m Overhanging wall requires fInger strength 2. CHOQUITO 6c+ 15m Another difficult warm up 3. CAFFE’ AMARO 7b+ 18m Overhang requiring endurance 4. ESSE 12 7c 18m 5. CORRETTO 7c+ 18m Start on fingers, link up and exit on the previous 6. ROBUSTA 8c 18m Nice natural prow F.A. M.Gambaro 7. ESSE 4 7c 20m Athletic overhang on tufas and good holds 8. 20m 9. ARABICA 7c+/8a 24m Nice line with tufas requiring endurance F.A.M.Gambaro

10. JAWA 8a 27m It sets off as the previous but comes out on the right at the first chain 11. BLEND 8a+ 27m Technical wall with tufas. Exit onto the previous. F.A. M. Gambaro

12. 100% ARABICA 8c 30m Extension of 9. the logical line of the crag which cuts across the large wall towards the right. F.A. M.Gambaro

13. 100% ARABESCO 32m As for the previous but exit onto 15 14. IDEALE 6c+ 17m White technical wall 15. ARABESCO P1 6c 17m P2: 8a+ 28m great ascent up tufa to then overcome a difficult roof. F.A. M.Gambaro