Ball Bearings Magazine | Volume 12 Issue 2 by Ball Bearings Magazine

BALL BEARINGS

The Fashion Issue

Spring 2021

MAGAZINE

Ball Bearings | Ball State University | Muncie, Indiana | Spring 2021 | ballbearingsmag14@gmail.com

the

COMPARE, CONSIDER & CHOOSE HOUSING. ALL IN ONE PLACE AT BALLSTATEDAILY.COM

Trending Topics

Muncie Cribs

Take a look at three Black-owned businesses in Muncie

The Lavender Ceiling

How the lavender ceiling prevents many LGBTQ individuals from job attainment and security

22 36

Individuals who have synesthesia or color vision deficiency discuss how they experience their conditions

COVID-19 and the Environment Green #087353

How the global coronavirus pandemic has led to many environmental changes

How the potential extinction of the rusty patched bumblebee could change the environment

Cancer Ribbons

Cancer survivors explain how they share a special bond even after treatment

48 54

How your favorite color is more than just an icebreaker

What color matches your personality? Fall 2020 | Ball Bearings | 01

Ledditor

From the Editor

At the start of my sophomore year, I made a list of resolutions for the school year: take more pictures, spend more time with my friends, and start dressing however I want. I didn’t keep to the first one very well, but I did make significant improvements. Same with the second. But the last resolution — to start dressing however I wanted — I made a habit. I’ve always loved clothing, but I tended to neglect my style every morning because I was too tired or too rushed or didn’t plan far enough in advance. I changed all that. I decided to devote an hour of my mornings to getting dressed. I gave myself enough time to mix and match and try on multiple outfit combinations until I could look in the mirror and get excited about my day. It sounds silly, but my days, along with my outlook on life, improved dramatically. I started to get more adventurous in my choices. Striped full-length overalls? Sure. A fuzzy longsleeved turtle neck under a Garfield tee? Absolutely. A full 80s floral dress complete with humongous shoulder pads? Essential. I got more confident. Suddenly, things I didn’t

think I could pull off became things I was dying to try. I started to go thrift shopping, looking for unique pieces that maybe looked hideous on the hanger, then making it a challenge to see how I could wear them. I started to enjoy waking up in the morning because I was excited about how I would surprise myself with what I chose to wear. The rest of the day was great, too, because even if I had the worst day in the world, at least my outfit looked cute. What started as dressing up for the day became dressing as my true self. My confidence, self-esteem, and optimism all improved by simply deciding to wear what made me smile when I looked in the mirror. Style is so much more than the pages of a high fashion magazine. Style is embedded in our identities. This issue explores that beautiful, complex relationship. Whether it’s taking part in traditional styles as a way to honor your culture and identity, getting a symbolic tattoo to remind you of what’s really important, or simply following your heart and dressing however you like, style is so much more than what meets the eye. Enjoy this issue, and wear what makes you happy. g

The Ball Bearings exec team poses with their 2020 Best of Show award from the American Collegiate Press.

Sam Nower Editor-in-Chief srnower@bsu.edu @samanthanower

Ball Bearings | Ball State University | Muncie, Indiana | Spring 2021 | ballbearingsmag14@gmail.com

BALL BEARINGS BallBearingsMag.com @ballbearingsmag

Executive

Corynne Menard Nigel Meyer Brianna Morton Lilly Salomon Amy Schwartz Taylor Smith

Editor-in-Chief Samantha Nower Executive Editor Becca Foerder

Visual

Managing Editor Griffin Sciarra

Photo Editor Shannon McCloskey

Art Director Elliott DeRose

Video Editors Zoe Hagymási Hope Stauffer

Digital Design Director Alex Bracken

Lifestyle Editor Haley Boyce

Staff Photographers Janie Arseneaux Victoria Johnson Corynne Menard Kristen Triplett

Social Media Editor Alex Bracken

Photo Consultant Maureen Kirk

Senior Editors Haley Boyce Arianna Sergio Lily Staatz

Staff Videographers Mason Kupiainen Brianna Morton Giovanny Romero Carsten Beyer

Editorial

Staff Writers Annie Bastian Evan Chandler Grace Duerksen Kami Geron Savannah Jordan

your year-round gathering place come discover something new at minnetrista

Staff Designers Janie Arseneaux Annie Bastian Sunnie Berning Haley Boyce Alex Bracken Paola Fernandez-Jimenez Kami Geron Maggie Getzin Alex Hindenlang Meghan Holt Hannah Sherfick Kamryn Tomlinson

BALL BE A RI NGS

Spring 2021

The Fashion Issue

MAGAZINE

Adviser Lisa Renze-Rhodes

| Ball State Univer

, Indiana sity | Muncie

| Spring 2021

| ballbearingsm

ag14@gmail.c

minnetrista.net

1200 n. minnetrista pkwy. muncie, in 47303 . 765.282.4848

11020IN

Ball Bearings

On the Cover Illustration by Elliott DeRose

News

T R E N D I N G T O P I C S

Kamala Harris: Fashion and Firsts Women in positions of political power often use fashion as a tool for political communication. By Brianna Morton

n 2021, Kamala Harris became the first woman and first person of color to be vice president. While there has not been a woman in this position before, women in power have often been scrutinized for their fashion choices. Harris picks her clothing with precision. For the February 2021 Vogue Cover photoshoot, she styled herself, wearing a suit and sneakers. There was some backlash. Many felt the images undermined the importance of Harris’ victory. Vogue editor Anna Wintour said she believed the photos gave off an accessible and casual feel. “She is demonstrating that women can be intelligent and play a role in influencing culture,” says Monet Lindstrand, a Ball State University freshman majoring in political science and women’s and gender studies. On Inauguration Day, Harris wore a purple coat and dress. Harris’ choice of the color purple is notable because according to the National Park Service, it is one of the most prominent colors used by the National Women’s Party to symbolize their “unswerving steadfastness” towards suffrage. Jinhee Nam, a Ball State professor of fashion, says Harris’ dark or neutral pant suits help to emphasize her role and to give off competence.

04 | BallBearingsMag.com | Spring 2021

She is demonstrating that women can be intelligent and play a role in influencing culture. - Monet Lindstrand, Ball State University Freshman The pearls she wears are a nod to her sorority and their “twenty pearls”, which symbolize their 20 founders and incorporators. Alpha Kappa Alpha was founded on Howard University’s campus and the sorority states it was the first greek-life organization to be founded by African-American women. As a public figure, what Harris wears becomes subject to scrutiny. She chose to wear an outfit and accessories for inauguration designed by queer Black designer, Christopher John Rogers, and Puerto Rican designer Wilfredo Rosado. She wore many designs by people of color on the campaign trail as well. Lindstrand says Harris shouldn’t be required to send a message with what she wears, but says her clothing can be

Alex Bracken, Ball Bearings Illustrations

talked about as long as it doesn’t distract from discussing Harris’ policy points. This is a common tactic that women use in positions of power. For example, in January 2021, the U.S. saw the largest number of women holding a federal office in the 117th Congress. These women wore white in support of the suffrage movement on Inauguration Day. Alexandria Ocasio-

Cortez took to Twitter to publicly recognize the fashion statement. Women who hold political office are often critiqued more harshly than men for their fashion choices. Nam feels that it is fair to look up to Harris for fashion inspiration like first ladies, as she is the first woman to hold the vice president title. The first woman in a presidential cabinet, Frances Perkins, dressed maternally to get the respect from men. She was able to talk to men and get them to support her cause while also not threatening them. “Style appeals to the women who live in the 21st century who want to play an intact role regardless of gender and race,” says Nam when speaking of those who look up to the vice president. For little girls watching vice president Harris on T.V., her Converse may have spoken louder than we think. g

1933

Toto Koopman

Koopman was the first bisexual and biracial model to be featured on the cover, being half Dutch and half Javanese (a small island off of Indonesia). She worked in Paris as a model after World War II, before then she was a spy in Italy for the Allies.

1974

Beverly Johnson

Johnson was the first Black American to be on the cover. She was often told she would not make covers because of her skin. After her Vogue cover, she used her new fame to champion civil rights.

Landmark Political Fashion Michelle Obama: From 2008 to

2016, Michelle Obama ushered in an era of stylish but accessible fashion. She consistently made headlines for her style choices not only from designer labels, but from ready-to-wear brands like J. Crew, Ann Taylor, and Target.

Ruth Bader Ginsburg: Justice

Ginsburg used decorative collars over top of her Supreme Court robes to send political messages. She had a special collar for when she delivered the majority opinion of the court and when she dissented.

Women of the House Democratic Caucus: In 2019,

female House representatives wore white on Inauguration Day to show their support for the suffrage movement. Source: Pew Research Center, Yahoo! News, Fashion and Textiles

1998

Hillary Clinton

Clinton was the first American first lady to be on a cover of Vogue, a feat repeated by Michelle Obama. Source: Vogue, CNN, The New York Times Style Magazine, Fashion Theory Alex Bracken, Ball Bearings

2020

Harry Styles

Styles was the first solo man to be on the cover. He wore a long, blue dress.

Spring 2021 | Ball Bearings | 05

News Step 1

Microfibers break off of clothing from abrasive wash cycles.

Microplastics are a

MACRO

Step 4

Microfibers can collect toxins that have the potential to be released when we ingest them.

ISSUE

Plastic pollution leaks from our washers into our water.

Step 2

Less than 5 mm in size, the microfibers easily slip through conventional washing machine filters.

Step 3

As microfibers move through sewage systems, they find their way into rivers and ultimately into irrigation ways, oceans, and our food supply.

By Nigel Meyer I set off recently to clean my laundry room and came across a few old T-shirts given to me by a past employer. They were branded with the company logo. They were burnt mustard and cool navy – not really my colors. And despite their soft, comfortable fabric, I decided it was time to toss the tees. But as I held the shirts over the heap of trash collected from the laundry room, I couldn’t help but feel guilt and shame that made me clench the shirts even tighter in my fist. They are perfectly fine. Why throw them away? I imagined a mountain of clothes in a smokey, dead field. I heard the sound of a dump truck backing up only to drop another foothill of perfectly fine shirts, with mine on top. It’s easy to picture this sort of pollution. Obvious and in-your-face imagery is often shared in the news and on social media. But clothing’s impact on the world isn’t limited to the big things like landfill waste or the 999 gallons of water used to make a pair of jeans, estimated by the United Nations . The little things hide behind the mounds of visible pollution and people have only begun to notice in the last couple of years.

06 | BallBearingsMag.com | Spring 2021

Those “little things” are called microplastics. Microplastics are less than 5 mm long and shed off of plastic debris. Synthetic fabrics like polyester, nylon, and spandex shed microplastic fibers when washed in a washing machine. According to a 2018 study by Fauna & Flora International, single synthetic textiles can shed up to 100,000 microplastic fibers in a single wash, with an entire load estimated to shed about 700,000 microplastic fibers. These fibers aren’t caught by washing machines, and they make their way into our water systems. They pose potentially serious risks to wildlife and our own safety as they are known to collect toxins that are released when ingested by wildlife. Studies show microplastics can build up in animal digestive systems, alter eating behaviors and energy levels, and may cause physical harm. One study found microplastics in 81% of the drinking water samples collected in 14 countries around the world, and 98% of the plastics were fibers. According to a report by the Indiana Academy of Science, levels of plastics in the White River near Yorktown, Muncie, and Indianapolis were on par with levels found around the world, with nearly

80% of the microplastics collected being synthetic fibers. The true long-term risks of microplastic fiber pollution are still being studied, but there are already large concerns about their impact. “With many clothing companies now aware that microfibers are a pollution source, I would expect there to be future innovation in making clothing that is less likely to shed these particles with regular wear and washing,” says Lyndsay Hylton Adams, one of the authors of the Indiana Academy of Science study and environmental manager of the Indiana Department of Environmental Management. Innovations may come in the form of a “Circular Economy” model which encourages recyclability of plastics or new biodegradable materials like fibers made from spider silk. The Cora Ball is a product inspired by nature and designed to collect microfibers in the washing machine. Reusing plastics and donating or reselling clothes can reduce waste, but so can washing our clothes less and buying clothes with less synthetic material. If you’d like more information about microplastic pollution, visit the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration’s website. g

Just Dupe It A look into the rise in dupes of big-name brands.

By Lilly Salomon Illustrations By Kamryn Tomlinson Louis Vuitton, Gucci, and Dior are titans of the fashion industry. With luxury products from these high-end companies, counterfeits and copy cats are common. These “dupes” can harm designers and small businesses, and they can get customers in trouble. According to a 2016 study by the Organisation for Economic Cooperation and Development, the global market for counterfeit items made up 3.3% of world trade, which is up from 2.5% in 2013. Among the most-copied items were footwear, clothing, and leather goods. Audrey Robbins, fashion professor at Ball State University, describes dupes as fashion duplicates, knockoffs or counterfeits. As long as the designs or phrases aren’t trademarked, it’s technically not illegal for dupes to be made of them. However, to designers, dupes are a big deal. Fast fashion, which is where brands create and produce mass amounts of products at a fast rate, holds such an influence that ideas copied from smaller brands or designers can go unnoticed. However, on the other side, some small businesses will take logos like Disney or Nike and incorporate them into their designs, which is illegal, but can also go unnoticed by these big companies in the same way. “The fashion industry is one of the most visible places where we see ‘dupes’ play a role in product consumption. I think often consumers aren’t aware of the legal issues surrounding counterfeit products when they choose

to participate in buying, wearing, and promoting a brand that is claiming to be the ‘real’ branded fashion item,” Robbins explains. Robbins says that knockoff fashion products don’t claim to be a brand, but look similar enough that they could pass for one. For many consumers, there is an internal struggle in choosing between the desire to wear trendy items at an affordable price and not wanting to damage the brands and designers that these dupes have essentially stolen from. “Often, consumers are excited about being able to participate in wearing a fashion they might not be able to afford when it’s produced in a similar silhouette, design detail, etc. Some negatives of fashion dupes would be that often an authentic brand image and overall profit objectives can falter because you have less consumers purchasing the authentic brand, or it becomes less desirable,” says Robbins. Robbins says she doesn’t see an end to the increase in dupes anytime soon. “As we utilize digital access to products, we will continue to see an increase in fashion dupes. We no longer have to look in large cities or along high-traffic tourist locations to be able to purchase these ‘dupes.’ They are being sold on apps that are trusted,” says Robbins. But the counterfeit market isn’t the only industry that’s growing. Due to increased awareness about ethical shopping, the sustainable market is also on the rise. An easy way to combat the spread of dupes would be to support sustainable brands. g Spring 2021 | Ball Bearings | 07

Graphic

How do you define beauty?

BEAUTY STANDARDS ACROSS CULTURES

If the world had a catwalk, what would it look like? From kilts to kimonos, here’s a highlight reel of fashion traditions around the world. By Lilly Salomon Illustrations By Elliott DeRose

Senegal: In West Africa, the boubou, a classic Senegalese robe, is worn by both men and women. The boubou is a centerpiece in places like Senegal. Some boubous can be embroidered in great detail and are usually made out of cotton, bazin, or wax fabric.

Kayan tribe in Thailand: Women of the Kayan tribe in Thailand have traditionally worn brass rings around their neck. Although many people believe more rings are added each year, the piece is actually one long coil wound into spirals to give the illusion of individual rings. Although the origin of this tradition in the Kayan tribe is unknown, the tall and slender appearance that the neck coils give off has long been a symbol of power and beauty for the women in the tribe.

Source: Afroculture.net, Authentic Vacations, canadianarabcommunity.com, HIPTIPICO, Museum of New Zealand, Newzealand.com, oktoberfest.de, Pitt Rivers Virtual Collections, The University of Tennessee Knoxville, Victoria and Albert Museum

Maori Tribe, New Zealand:

In New Zealand, tā-moko is a tattooing practice of the Maori tribe which speaks to the individual’s identity and role within the tribe. Tā-moko began with wide-tooth combs, known as uhi, dipped in ink and pierced into the skin. The Maori tribe integrated smaller-toothed uhi, which tattoos smoother grooves into the skin. Elements of the tāmoko shape the face through its fluid motion, which is the origin of the expression “Mataora,” or “the living face.”

Arab Gulf, Middle East: In the Middle East, specifically around the Arab Gulf, a common traditional fashion piece for men is the thwab, a long robe. The thwab is worn in order to keep individuals cool in the countries that have hot desert environments. The thwab is loose-fitting, ankle-length, and usually has long sleeves. Women also have a variation of the thwab that is an oversized garment heavily embroidered in the front panel. A kaffiyeh is a piece of traditional clothing worn by some Arab men. The cloth headdress can be accompanied by a rope, called an igal, to secure it.

Germany: In Germany, lederhosen are a style of traditional dress. Lederhosen are typically seen in Bavaria, especially during Oktoberfest. The word itself actually translates to “leather pants.” Although lederhosen

are a product of German culture, the lederhosen industry is a global one. Many

lederhosen factories are located in countries around the world in places like India, Hungary, or Sri Lanka. The leather to create the outfit often comes from Pakistan or New Zealand. To get deerskin leather, the traditional source of leather for lederhosen, individuals may have to seek out an authentic German costume store. Individuals may pay more, but the quality of the leather will be higher and last longer.

Guatemala: Guatemalan women wear huipils, pronounced weepeel, which are hand-sewn pieces of fabric that fall along the neck and shoulders. The loose-fitting style is meant for the warm climates and keeps the body cool. The majority of the garment is a white fabric, but near the neck, intricate designs and embroidery are sewn in. Motifs of the sun and the moon are incorporated with the rays of the sun emanating from the neck. The phases of the moon can be seen down the shoulders.

Japan: In Japan, a kimono is a style of traditional dress. Kimonos are long garments that are tied with a sash, called an obi. They allow the wearer to move around easily. The crane is a common bird featured on kimonos, which can symbolize good fortune.

Scotland: In Scotland, kilts are a part of traditional dress. According to a study from the Scottish Medical Journal, a kilt is defined as a male garment that resembles a pleated skirt. It’s usually made of tartan fabric and worn without underwear. According to a study from the Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, the British government enacted the Disarming Act of 1746, forbidding the use of kilts. It was seen as an effort to dispel Scottish culture and thoughts of independence, but many felt compelled to continue donning the symbolic dress, even under threat of jail time.

The obi

Spring 2021 | Ball Bearings | 09

Below: Bradley Gibson stars in the Lion King on Broadway. Ball State Professor Kathryn Rohe worked as a dresser for the Broadway show. Photo Provided, Disney Far Right: Kathryn Rohe, a costume designer for 40 years, adjusts a dress in the Ball State costume shop in Muncie, Indiana. Victoria Johnson, Ball Bearings

Column

Many hours of preparation and planning go into costume design for the theater. By Savannah Jordan heater costumes can enhance a show by describing a character’s personality, their feelings, and the action that is taking place on stage. So what goes into making these magnificent costumes? Former off-Broadway costume designer and current Ball State University professor Kathryn Rohe says there is a process. According to Kathryn, costume designers read the script, listen to the directors and their ideas, and do research to gather imagery that might illustrate what they are trying to achieve. There is also sketching and painting, she says, and along the way, they are involving the directors and other designers. “It is a communal exercise that none of us are creating on our own. We are creating together,” Kathryn says. Kathryn has been working as a costume designer for 40 years. Originally wanting to be an actress, she knew in college it wasn’t turning out how she had planned. Her costume design journey began when she took an introduction to costuming class. She fell in love with it, so she decided to stick with it. “It is about fashion. It is about drawing and painting. It is about psychology. It is about history. It just combined such a broad range of interests and I thought it was super cool,” she says. Spring 2021 | Ball Bearings | 11

Column Kathryn’s mother taught her how to sew when she was around 10 years old. Most of the women in her family grew up learning how to sew. “Back in my mom’s generation, that’s how you could acquire fashionable clothing that you might not be able to afford,” she says. “If you made it yourself, you could afford it.” While at the University of Tennessee, Kathryn had a professor named Marianne Custer, whom she considers a role model. “In college, I wasn’t on a good path, and she really helped me,” Kathryn says. “If you can find that person, that role model, you are lucky enough to have that person in your college experience, it makes such a difference.” Kathryn lived in New York 16 years prior to graduating from the University of Tennessee, where she worked as a wardrobe crew member for The Lion King on Broadway. “It was so much fun,” she says. “I cannot even tell you how much fun it was.” However, being a costume designer does come with its challenges.

“There are constantly production issues,” she says. “There is a garment that is not built the way it needs to be, or a cast member gets sick and they need to be replaced, or you know a dress needs to be ordered because you may not have the time to make it. It definitely can be a struggle.” Kathryn was one of four deck dressers on The Lion King. As a deck dresser, she mostly worked in the dark, where she added puppets to the costumes because the puppets were too big to put on in the dressing room. The young Simba and Nala costumes were Kathryn’s main responsibility. She always made them try on shoes because they would almost always need a size up due to their unpredictable growth spurts. One time, a young Simba was home for three days with the flu, and when he came back, his costume wouldn’t fit because he’d had a big growth spurt. One of the most expensive and time-consuming costumes of the production was for Rafiki. The costume required a headdress with a wig attached, a gigantic bag that

are used in the longestrunning Broadway musical, Phantom of the Opera

In the Broadway musical Wicked, there are

throughout the show

of silicone was used to make all of the masks in Broadway’s The Lion King

Kathryn Rohe models a headpiece meant to mimic a swarm of bees designed by one of her students. Victoria Johnson, Ball Bearings

12 | BallBearingsMag.com | Spring 2021

Source: Playbill, Liberty Community Chorus Alex Hindenlang, Ball Bearings Illustration

Emily Coy, a junior studying costume design and technology, is back in the costume shop after having to participate in shows over Zoom due to the pandemic. Shannon McCloskey, Ball Bearings

acted as a kind of dress, special shoes, and it needed monkey hands as well. According to Kathryn, this costume would take three months for one person to make when they are avidly working on it and $20,000 to produce head-to-toe. While working on The Lion King, Kathryn’s favorite costume was the cheetah and the cheetah puppet. She says the puppet works by attaching the cheetah head, which is out in front of the dancer. The head had wires from the ears to the wig that the dancer was wearing so when the dancer would move their head, the cheetah’s head would move with it. “It was so beautiful, so magical, I get choked up even when I talk about it,” Kathryn says. “She became the creature. The animal came to light right before my eyes, and I thought that was amazing.” In 2018, Kathryn took a job as a professor at Ball State. The first show she was a part of on campus was The Stage Door. The production is set in the late

30s and required about 90 costumes. She says it was a blast inventing costumes and having fun making something grand out of nothing. Kathryn loves helping shape the imagery to help tell the story. Her mother always used to say, “it is good for the soul.” “There is a connection between the audience and performer. Good theatre is transformative. It takes you out of yourself and into the realism of ideas and spirit. It is so uplifting,” Kathryn says. “Unfortunately, we live in a culture that doesn’t always recognize the necessity of parts to our soul because they don’t always see it as a moneymaker. It is very unfortunate.” One of Kathryn’s students at Ball State, Emily Coy, is a junior pursuing a degree in costume design and technology. Her favorite thing about being a costume designer is being able to bring a character to life. “I think it is really fun not only to help

I think it is really fun not only to help create a character, but to see the final product at the end, especially when you have gone through the whole process and you can enjoy it. - Emily Coy, Junior Costume Design and Technology Major at Ball State University Spring 2021 | Ball Bearings | 13

create a character, but to see the final product at the end, especially when you have gone through the whole process and you can enjoy it,” she says. “You’re like, ‘oh my gosh, this character is real right now. Not only the costumes, but everything as a whole.’” Emily did backstage quick changes in high school, but really started costume designing when she began studying at Ball State. She knew right off the bat she wanted to pursue costume designing as a career. According to Emily, the biggest challenge she has faced so far is the coronavirus pandemic. Last semester, she designed a show that was held completely over Zoom called, She Kills Monsters: Virtual Realms. For that production, she didn’t have any physical contact with the characters. They just sent in pictures of what they had in their closet and their measurements. “It was kind of a fun challenge and it was another way to collaborate with them,” Emily says. “I probably wouldn’t have had this much collaboration before. “It was really fun because a lot of the characters have normal Midwestern school clothes and then they also have their fantasy character clothes. Thankfully the costume shop is really good at getting measurements right at the beginning of the semester when everybody gets cast.” After graduating, Emily has numerous ideas of what she is interested in pursuing as a career. “I think it would be fun to be a dresser for a traveling show like on a tour, or work as a dresser on SNL,” she says. “I am also interested in possibly being a dresser for TV and film, like the styling/fashion route. But I’ll probably just start out in theater.”

Junior Emily Coy takes advantage of the off-time to help clean the costume shop, as things get placed everywhere during peak show times in the costume shop in Ball State’s theater. Shannon McCloskey, Ball Bearings

Artists need to carry on. They need to carry on to the best of their abilities. We have been engaging in theater and arts for hundreds of thousands of years. It is a necessary part of who we are. - Kathryn Rohe, Former Off-Broadway Costume Designer and current Ball State University Professor

14 | BallBearingsMag.com | Spring 2021

Another one of Kathryn’s students is freshman Jillian Fleck. This is her first year as a costume designer. She originally wanted to be a character designer for animation but was having a hard time trying to find a program that she fit with. “I was looking at Ball State just for general college stuff, and it clicked to try costume design,” she says. “Sewing has always been a huge passion of mine ever since I was really little. I thought, ‘well this makes perfect sense.’” Over the years, Jillian has made Halloween costumes for her siblings. Along with having an aunt whom she goes to for help, she relies on YouTube videos to master her skill. “If I can’t find the pattern I want, I am more than willing to make it myself out of duct tape and plastic wrap, which is fun,” she says. Jillian has also noticed the many obstacles that the COVID-19 pandemic has created for theater performances, especially for costumes. “Obviously the main issue right now is the pandemic, and we haven’t been able to actually go out and buy clothes for the costumes,” Jillian says. “We have been having the actors pull from their own closets to match up with the vision of the costume the designers and the director have.” One of Jillian’s favorite things about designing costumes is that she is constantly interested in what she is working on. She likes that costuming has some sort of analysis and problem solving in it to keep her brain engaged. “It is so interesting when you have to take budgeting into account. I am sure there is this very expensive thermal plastic that you could use to create this mask. So then I ask myself, ‘okay, how am I going to make this with clay and some aluminum foil?’” After graduating, Jillian doesn’t see herself working on Broadway. “I like working on a little bit of a smaller scale like on the community theatre aspect of things. Even going to Disney and creating costumes for the characters on the various attractions,” she says. So far, Jillian says she has had a really great experience at Ball State and says the university has an excellent program with a lot of really great professors and staff. “Artists need to carry on. They need to carry on to the best of their abilities. We have been engaging in theater and arts for hundreds of thousands of years. It is a necessary part of who we are,” Kathryn says. g

An example of one of Jillian’s Halloween costumes that she designed and sewed.

Freshman Jillian Fleck finishes a sketch of a costume in her sketch pad near the costume shop on Ball State’s campus. Victoria Johnson, Ball Bearings

Spring 2021 | Ball Bearings | 15

Feature

More o Than a

HAIRCUT R

16 | BallBearingsMag.com | Spring 2021

Barbers comment on the significance of barbershops and the culture surrounding their profession. By Lily Staatz Illustrations By Kamryn Tomlinson

Spring 2021 | Ball Bearings | 17

Feature

hen you step inside 1909 Hair Co. and Associates, you step into an experience. Passing the colorful and classic swirling pole, you can see watercolor paintings from the local Muncie community. There’s an air of constant chatter as clients and barbers converse. A vintage Ball State jersey is on display in a glass picture frame adorning the wall, located near the front counter. The shop brings a sense of comfort as rays of golden sunshine stream through the windows surrounding the parlor. Have a seat, admire the atmosphere, and patiently wait for your turn in the chair. Bruce Anderson, the

owner of the barbershop, has been cutting hair for 41 years and knows barbering is about not only a haircut, but a complete barbershop culture and experience. “If you cut someone’s hair for a long time, you build a relationship with that customer, people look forward to coming in,” he says. According to the National Barber Museum and Hall of Fame, barbershop culture dates back to 5000 B.C. Barbering services were first performed by Egyptian nobility, but not with scissors. Instead, they used a chosen tool of sharpened flint or oyster shells. These tools may not seem appealing for a

haircut, but luckily modernday barbering has developed into more of a culture and art form. Hair and hairstyles are a tale as old as time, as they have been associated with not just shaping someone’s identity, but in some cases even holding a religious power. In biblical times, this was shown with the story of Sampson, a man who derived power from his long hair, and who lost it when his hair was cut. Many religions believe in hair as a symbolic gift from God. These religions, such as Sikhism, Islam, and sects of Judaism, do not believe in men and women cutting their hair. These religions do

If you cut someone’s hair for a long time, you build a relationship with that customer. People look forward to coming in.” - Bruce Anderson, Owner of 1909 Hair Co. and Associates

Scissors and razor heads sit on a counter near the barber’s work station in 1909 Hair Co. and Associates. Kristen Triplett, Ball Bearings

A coat rack/barber pole in the front room of 1909 Hair Co. and Associates. Kristen Triplett, Ball Bearings

not encourage men to shave their beards either. Some Evangelical Christian women believe a long curtain of hair to be a sign of connection to God. Hindus and Buddhists believe that long hair represents a sense of beauty and sexuality and that cutting it would be an offense to the gods and their gifts. Meanwhile, the Amish Bible instructs the men to grow their beards long and requires women to have long hair. Across many cultures, a running theme is that hair gives an individual a sense of identity. Johnnie T. Griffin, a barber in Lombard, Illinois, who is the owner of the hair studio DudeCanCut, tells a story of the time he honored a request for a religious woman to have her hair cut in private. Griffin’s barber shop serves both male and female clients. He has been cutting hair for 12 years and opened his barber shop in December of 2015. He tailors his hair cut and style to the client in the chair. “Trends come in waves really,” says Griffin. When he first began to cut hair, clients would just come in for a quick cut and would be gone.

Bruce Anderson, owner of 1909 Hair Co. and Associates, stands behind the front desk of his barbershop. Kristen Triplett, Ball Bearings

The History of Barbershops

5000 B.C.

A bill is passed to identify the separation of those who qualify as barbers and the difference of those who qualify as barber surgeons.

The culture of barbering is first performed by Egyptian nobility, who used tools made out of sharpened flint or oyster shells. Source: The National Barber Museum and Hall of Fame, Instagram Kamryn Tomlinson, Ball Bearings

1745

1880

Barber shops were approximately 10-by12 feet in size. The total cost for equipment came to be around $20. The typical haircut cost anywhere from 5 to 10 cents, with a shave costing 3 cents.

There is a rise in female barber students to over 50%. 1985

1995

While it’s too soon to tell what styles will be popular in the 2020s, some celebrities like Billie Eilish have made waves by showing off their new hairstyles.

The number of African American barber students is over 50%.

2021

Spring 2021 | Ball Bearings | 19

Rick Cox cuts Adam Edgell’s hair in 1909 Hair Co. and Associates. Kristen Triplett, Ball Bearings

The barber’s work station. Kristen Triplett, Ball Bearings

20 | BallBearingsMag.com | Spring 2021

“But now guys are way more into themselves than they were 10 or 12 years ago,” says Griffin. While the trends may come in waves, 2021 opens a door for opportunities to more diverse styles. Men’s haircuts and hairstyles have changed throughout the decades from the elegant slicked back hair of the 1930s, to the greaser hairstyle of the 1950s, to the rockabilly or pompadour style brought to the 1960s. Griffin believes that barbers have creative control over a hairstyle. “It’s a complete art form, it’s more than just a trade, and it’s not the same as a plumber or electrician or anything like that,” he says. Griffin believes that there is a unique culture surrounding barbershops as

there is more of a social aspect with a client’s appointment. “The barbershop is like the men’s social club. It’s a place where guys can come to be themselves, be honest, be free of any judgment in any way.” The culture and environment surrounding a barbershop is similar to visiting a therapist. “I’ve had clients break down and cry in my chair when they get a bad phone call,” he says. The barber’s chair is seen as a comforting spot for clients no matter the age, ethnicity, gender, or religion, as it is a welcoming spot for all to share their thoughts. “We’re stylists, image consultants, and therapists. Everyone wants to talk about their problems,” says Dennis Martin, who has

What’s the Significance?

The barbershop pole is the No. 1 way to distinguish a barbershop from a salon. Dating back to the year 3100 B.C., the time period of the Egyptians when barbershops could perform surgical procedures on patients, the pole has historically signified more than a haircut.

Red & White The colors that twirl on the pole each signify procedures from the past as red represents blood and white represents the bandages used to stem the bleeding from wounds.

Blue

been working in the trade of barbering for 48 years. “There’s not very many businesses that have people that they’ll see every two, three, and four weeks,” says Bruce. That is why being a barber allows for a deeper connection and relationship with clients. As they see each other more frequently and learn about each other’s lives. Whether the history of barbershop culture is thought of as in ancient Egypt, the old West, a Bible verse, or a simple haircut, its traditions still hold value, as barbershop culture has been modernized and renovated. Bruce Anderson says that he may never retire. Anderson tells his wife, “You lose your friends if you quit.” g

The color blue has a debated meaning, as one theory suggests that it could be a symbol of the veins cut during bloodletting. Another theory suggests that the color blue could be a symbol of patriotism and a nod to the American flag.

Origins The pole itself was a physical tool for patients to grip as they squeezed it to make their veins more prominent for the procedure being performed. The pole holds strong and true today as a reminder of a barber’s past as surgical procedures were banned in England in the mid-1500s. However, the two trades were not officially split until 1745 as the tension between the title and duties between surgeons and barber surgeons heightened. Source: drlindseyfitzharris.com Kamryn Tomlinson, Ball Bearings

Spring 2021 | Ball Bearings | 21

Photo Essay

SHOPPING FOR

ACCESSIBILITY Adaptive clothing lacks representation in modern-day brands, as those with disabilities seek out appropriate options.

Emme Woodward discusses going through speech therapy for 10 years. She stated this was before her diagnosis of being hard of hearing, which may have impacted her success in speech and communication. Shannon McCloskey, Ball Bearings

When shopping for shirts, London Farlow looks for those that are a bit oversized to ensure she can get it on with limited use of her one hand. If it is too tight, she states it is difficult to get it off. Shannon McCloskey, Ball Bearings

Due to the limited use of her right hand, London Farlow stays away from shirts that have buttons. She said she enjoys the shirts that just have the buttons for show because they add some style that she does not have to compromise for. Shannon McCloskey, Ball Bearings

By Shannon McCloskey “Find inspiration for the year ahead with the new cast of Tommy Hilfiger Adaptive.” The blue, red, and white recognizable logo is modeled by individuals with Down syndrome and prosthetics, among others, for Tommy Hilfiger’s 2021 adaptive line. Tommy Adaptive recently started in 2016, but the brand was one of the first in the fashion industry to tap the adaptive market. Adaptive clothing, though, can be anything from magnetic buttons to sensory-friendly fabrics. For Elizabeth Love, it means shoes that can fit her orthotic. Elizabeth has hemiplegic cerebral palsy, which only affects the left side of her body. She says cerebral palsy affects things like balance and coordination, which leads her to using crutches about 90% of the time. “When it comes to clothing for me, I’m always thinking about things that will work with my crutches because obviously when you use crutches or any kind of medical aid, typically you have to have your hands free,” Elizabeth says. Spring 2021 | Ball Bearings | 23

Photo Essay

Adaptive Clothing Techniques

Velcro Belt Velcro squares are added to the ends of the belt for easy adjustments. This technique helps those who have trouble buckling on their own.

The clothing industry has found a variety of ways to make clothes more accessible for people with disabilities. Illustrations By Maggie Getzin

Velcro Pants Velcro squares are added the back of pants for easier dressing. Clothing with Velcro is commonly used by people in wheelchairs. Velcro squares can also be placed on the front of men’s pants to make trips to the bathroom easier.

Zipper Shoes Zippers are placed along the side and front of shoes for an alternative to tying laces. This helps those who struggle to tie or grasp strings. The zipper also allows a bigger opening which is especially helpful for people with prosthetics.

Claspable Underwear Clasps are added to the sides of underwear to make them easier to put on. This is helpful to the older community that cannot bend down as well. This is also seen in disabled communities.

Velcro Tank Top Velcro squares are added to the straps of a tank top for those who cannot lift their arms or for those who have G-tubes. These Velcros allow for easy access to medical tubes and makes dressing easier.

Easy-Open Button Shirt Buttons are added to the collar area of a shirt for easy access to medical tubes or areas for cleaning or changing bandages. These shirts prevent the need to completely remove the clothing.

Source: A Day in Our Shoes, Sunshine and Spoons Maggie Getzin, Ball Bearings

Slip-on shoes, like Vans, are what London Farlow wears due to being unable to tie shoes with one hand. Velcro tennis shoes are her option for athletic wear. Shannon McCloskey, Ball Bearings

One of Elizabeth’s biggest struggles is finding shoes that accommodate her orthotic insert. She often needs two different sizes, which can get expensive if the brand or store requires her to buy two pairs in order to make only one pair for her. “Something I’ve always wanted to do is buy a pair of slipons. I also want shoes that are appropriate for my age. If you look at adaptive clothing, a lot of it is either really little-kidtype clothing or types of clothing that older people would wear,” she says. Elizabeth finds that one of her favorite brands is American Eagle, specifically because of their leggings that have pockets. For others, though, they may still be struggling to find a brand that advertises clothing they could actually use. Adaptive clothing is something unique to every individual and more necessary than someone just looking for their next trend to add to their wardrobe. Every disability requires something different that is almost never marketed, and as Elizabeth states, the representation is still very low. People with physical disabilities often have to adapt into the mainstream clothing lines, but those like Elizabeth have stayed resilient in wanting to have their own style that speaks for them, the same way it does for anyone else. “I’m stubborn, so I’m not willing to compromise.” g

26 | BallBearingsMag.com | Spring 2021

London Farlow looks for pockets when she picks out her clothing due to being able to hold things with her left hand, but not her right. Having pockets allows her to have both hands free for things like groceries and textbooks. Shannon McCloskey, Ball Bearings

Emme Woodward signs the word “clothing.” Woodward was a minor in sign language, and can carry on basic conversation with it. Learning sign language helped her learn the difference between using a capital “D” in deaf and a lowercase. The lowercase form is for the medical term, whereas the uppercase refers to the community of Deaf individuals. Shannon McCloskey, Ball Bearings

Column

WEAR YOUR

ON YOUR R SLEEVE Employees of tattoo and piercing shop Body Language Tattoo share their journeys to becoming artists. By Annie Bastian

28 | BallBearingsMag.com | Spring 2021

Tattoo artist Cody Blackford sets up his ring light over his client, Jenna Chodkiewicz, as he prepares to start inking. Janie Arseneaux, Ball Bearings

Spring 2021 | Ball Bearings | 29

Column

ight off of Ball State University’s campus sits a small strip of shops. When you scan the stores in this strip,

30 | BallBearingsMag.com | Spring 2021

commonly referred to by locals as “The Village,” there are bookstores, bars, and pizza joints. But above a café lies a hidden gem: Body Language Tattoo. The shop, which opened in 2015, offers tattoos and body piercings. Even with COVID-19 restrictions

in place, the shop feels welcoming with vibrant music and artistic décor. The space is divided into section. On the right are three units partitioned off for tattoo artists to have their own workspace, and across the room is a sole piercing station.

Left: One of the three tattoo stations at Body Language Tattoo. Shannon McCloskey, Ball Bearings Above: Cody places the outline for Jenna’s tattoo. Jenna chose to get butterflies tattooed to match her necklace, given to her by her late grandmother. Janie Arseneaux, Ball Bearings

Why Do College Students Get Tattoos?

Both Nikki Skowronek, the shop’s body piercer, and Cody Blackford, the lead tattoo artist, began their careers here. Nikki and Cody came to Ball State without plans of becoming a tattoo artist or a piercing technician. Nikki has

bachelor’s degrees in creative writing and French, and Cody has a master’s degree in technology education. Both of them did their apprenticeships while they were finishing their degrees through Ball State after having gotten into the industry during college.

• Many students get meaningful tattoos that help shape their identities • The quality and meaning of a tattoo make a big difference in how positively a student will react to their first tattoo • The average student surveyed spent months considering and planning for a tattoo, and most students surveyed didn’t regret their tattoos • Of the students who had more than one tattoo, their favorite one was usually larger, more expensive, and more meaningful than their others Source: According to a study done by the College Student Journal

Spring 2021 | Ball Bearings | 31

Column

During Nikki’s freshman year at Ball State, she came to Body Language Tattoo and got her first piercing in the very booth she now calls her own. “All of my piercings except for my lobes have been done here… I’m like a walking advertisement for this place, but I’m not mad about it,” Nikki says about her collection of piercings and tattoos. Cody also completed his apprenticeship through Body Language Tattoo while attending Ball State. “For a year there, I was actually doing 100-hour weeks or so because I was taking classes, teaching classes, doing research with a professor, and I was tattooing full time,” he says. After surviving 2020, a year riddled with challenges due to the pandemic, Body Language Tattoo was able to thrive. Both sides of the business, tattooing and body piercing, were booked up once the shop reopened. “People were itching to get in and get something done,” Nikki says. Cody agrees that he has never seen the shop busier. “I have no idea what made tattooing more popular. I wish I knew what it was so we could do more of it. I love that tattooing is popular…tattooing becoming more popular and accepted would be awesome,” he says. According to a 2015 Harris Poll, in 2003, only 16% of all adults had a tattoo, whereas in 2015, it had increased to nearly 30%. The desire for tattoos is not the only part of the industry that is growing. Statistics calculated by IBISWorld show that the market size for the tattoo artist industry is predicted to grow 6.6% in the upcoming year, which exceeds the 3.1% average growth the industry has seen between 2016 to 2021. This increase could be caused in part by the rise in acceptance of tattoos and elimination of the stigmas they once held. In the Harris Poll, when asked to compare those with tattoos to those without, 66% of adults voted that it made no difference to their perception of how respectable the individual is. Assistant professor of counseling at Edinboro University Everett Painter says there’s also a stigma in tattoo research. According to Painter, early

32 | BallBearingsMag.com | Spring 2021

Some people get tattoos that mean a lot to them, some get things that they just think are cool, but they always act as reminders of where we are in life.” - Cody Blackford, Body Language Tattoo, Lead Tattoo Artist

research into tattoos was presented as negative due to being centered around linking it to deviance. “We’ve come from a place where it’s viewed even in research literature as something negative to where we are today where there is so much that is positive around tattoos,” says Painter. Growing up in a conservative household, Nikki had to conquer her own fear of being perceived differently by those around her. Though she was willing to forfeit her nose piercings during pictures for her sister’s wedding, she has taken the stance that those around her must overcome their own prejudices when it comes to her

Left: Midway through the inking of Jenna’s tattoo. Janie Arseneaux, Ball Bearings Above: Cody’s station features a wide variety of ink. Shannon McCloskey, Ball Bearings

freedom to express herself through piercings and tattoos. “My grandma admitted to me last December that she liked all of my tattoos and piercings. So, it’s baby steps and might take a little bit. Don’t be discouraged. It’s your body,” she says. According to a 2019 study conducted by Ipsos, three in 10 Americans have at least one tattoo, which is an increase of 9% since 2012. Cody is concerned that sometimes those who come in to get tattoos do not always think about the permanence of it. He worries that, like types of fast fashion, people come in and get tattoos of what is trendy and cheap and do not

realize that in a couple months’ time, it will no longer be relevant. “You want that tattoo to look as good as it can as long as you can. You want it to be something that’s going to be somewhat timeless,” says Cody. To put it in perspective, Cody compares a tattoo to a shirt. Making a quick decision to buy a shirt that will last a few years should not weigh the same as deciding to get a tattoo that will last the rest of your life. Quick decision tattoos are not the only ones people get, though. Painter says that there are a variety of reasons individuals get tattoos, such as comingof-age to memorials, and it all depends

on the person. “It’s an individual thing,” says Painter. “You have to talk to the individual to really discern what it is about [a tattoo] that appeals to them.” Painter says that for individuals that have trauma directly related to the body, tattoos can be used to reclaim the body. “It can be about revealing their inner selves to other people, but also controlling how and when they do that,” he says. Cody advises to do lots of research before deciding on getting tattoos. Some artists have particular styles, and Cody cautions against asking an artist to stray from that. His top tips for getting tattooed include drinking plenty of water, finding references, and setting a budget. “Some people get tattoos that mean a lot to them, some get things that they just think are cool, but they always act as reminders of where we are in life,” Cody says. g Spring 2021 | Ball Bearings | 33

Feature

SIGNIFICANCE

IN STYLE

Professor Jay Bagga reflects on how culture and traditional clothing help shape his identity. Shannon McCloskey, Ball Bearings

The way we dress not only influences how others see us, but how we see ourselves. Along with conveying social identity, clothing has the ability to connect us to our culture and those within it. By Amy Schwartz

rowing up in Mumbai, India, a myriad of cultures surrounded Jay Bagga, professor of computer science at Ball State University. Formerly Bombay, the cosmopolitan center is home to more than 22 million people. “Everyone was very tolerant and open to each other. It was not all birds of the same feather; it was quite a bit of variation,” says Bagga. The clothing Bagga wears, including his turban, reflects his identity as a Sikh man. Clothing and identity are closely related. A 2015 study published in the Clothing and Textiles Research Journal found that what someone wears is related to how they see themselves and their personalities. Study participants were asked to rate photos of an individual’s clothing with a list of adjectives compiled by other participants. The results showed that most observers could accurately infer an individual’s personality based on just the clothing they selected. Clothing is also important to many people’s religious identities. A 2016 paper published in the Journal of Empirical Theology examined Muslim and Jewish women’s perceptions of identity in relation to head covering. Women interviewed associated the practice of head covering with spiritual growth and identity. Today, Bagga proudly wears his turban. Bagga remembers learning how to tie a turban. In the downstairs bathroom of a twostory duplex, 10-year-old Bagga wrestled with the 5-by-1 yard piece of fabric. Disappointed and frustrated, it would be a few days before he would try again. His older brothers continued to offer to help Bagga learn to tie his turban, but he refused. He would not even accept assistance from his brother Kuldip, despite their close-knit relationship. “We were friends, siblings, but also rivals. I was determined to [tie a turban] on my own, and, you know, I wanted to show that

I could do it better than Kuldip,” says Bagga. After many failed attempts, one day he opened the bathroom door, ready to proudly present the turban atop his head to his family. A few months of at-home modeling and continued practice gave Bagga the confidence to wear his turban in public. India is an emerging fashion market. A 2019 report by McKinsey & Company predicted the value of the fashion industry in India will increase to $59.3 billion by 2022. According to the report, traditional clothing accounted for 70% of women’s clothing sales in 2017, meaning the customary style was still the primary choice for Indian women. Traditional Indian clothing is on full display in many Indian weddings. Being the youngest of seven siblings, Bagga attended countless wedding ceremonies with his parents and was dazzled by the elaborate and detailed attire. The average guest list for an Indian wedding is 524, according to a 2019 report by Statista. This is more than double the amount

Turban Many people of the Sikh faith choose to wear a turban. The head covering serves as a reminder of three important Sikh values: freedom, love, and equality. Source: We are Sikhs Alex Hindenlang, Ball Bearings Illustration

When you wear the dress, it brings you into a festive mood. You feel that you belong and now is the time to enjoy the festivities and your life. - Jay Bagga, Professor of Computer Science at Ball State University

of guests in any of the other top 13 countries, which include Mexico, The United States, and Brazil. Bagga remembers attending weddings as a child. Everyone wore what they felt to be their best outfit. People often bought Spring 2021 | Ball Bearings | 35

Bagga poses with fellow attendees at the 2017 Pies for Peace event. The idea for Pies for Peace started in 2016 in an effort to inspire meaningful conversation between people of different cultural backgrounds, all while enjoying a slice of pie. Erin Moore, Photo Provided

Sari The sari is a traditional piece of women’s clothing in India. A popular style for hundreds of years, the long cloth can be draped in a variety of styles, with the most popular being wrapped around the bust and waist and draped over the shoulder. Source: New World Encyclopedia Alex Hindenlang, Ball Bearings Illustration

new fabric and had a tailor create a customized outfit for upcoming weddings and religious or cultural holidays. On these special occasions, the attire was decorated in complex embroidery and often made of silk or satin materials. At weddings, the bride and groom are the center of attention, dressed in lavishly embellished attire. In India, wedding festivities can last up to three days. Before the wedding begins, the Baraat commences. The Baraat is a tradition where a groom arrives on a horse, elephant, carriage, or sometimes a convertible, to his wedding, accompanied by a parade of his family and friends. “The groom was brought like a king on a horse, or a knight in shining armor,” says Bagga. When Bagga married his wife, Daljit, the festivities spanned over two days. During that time, the couple participated in rich cultural traditions, many of which involved intricate clothing. On the first evening of the wedding, Bagga dressed in an embroidered kurta pyjama, a traditional Indian two-piece outfit, and sehra, a traditional Indian headdress, and was loaded into an open-top, horsedrawn carriage. His Baraat had begun. “I’m finally the one who’s getting married. I’ve seen other people in this role, and now I’m playing this role,” Bagga says, describing what was going through his head on his wedding day. An accompanying band filled the boulevard with popular Bollywood music as the procession continued. Most of the men in attendance wore

36 | BallBearingsMag.com | Spring 2021

kurta pyjamas similar to Bagga’s. The women either wore a sari, a 6-foot-long drape wrapped around the waist and swathed over one of the shoulders, or salwar kameez, a two-piece outfit consisting of pleated pants tapered at the ankles and a knee-length tunic top. Once Bagga got to the home of Daljit’s family, the Milni ceremony, a time for the families to meet in a formal process, began. Beginning with the eldest individuals on either side, coinciding members of each family greeted one another and exchanged gifts. One gift commonly exchanged in the Milni ceremony is the mala, a strand of interwoven marigolds. The flowers of the Mala symbolize delight, fervor, beauty and love, and the thread depicts the couple’s devotion to the union. The next day, Bagga awoke as a typical soon-to-be groom. He was filled with euphoria and elation, accompanied by a slight touch of wariness, as he put on his suit jacket, slacks, and blue undershirt. The rest of his life began today, alongside the love of his life, but the uncertainty of where the future would take them unsettled Bagga. All traces of ambiguity dissipated the moment he saw Daljit. With her long, brown hair in a braid draped along one shoulder, her light pink Lengha grazed the floor. A three-piece ensemble for ceremonial occasions, Daljit’s outfit was comprised of the lengha, a floorlength skirt, the chori, a short-sleeve, fitted top, and a scarf called a dupatta.

Mala Mala is the Indian word for garland. During the Varmala ceremony in traditional Indian weddings, the bride and groom exchange colorful garlands of flowers. In some regions of India, the groom’s friends try to prevent the bride from placing the garland around the groom’s neck, and the bride’s friends try to assist her. It’s a lighthearted tradition that ends in a garland exchange, signifying that the bride has accepted the groom as her husband. Source: CulturalIndia.net Alex Hindenlang, Ball Bearings Illustration

Daljit’s dupatta covered the top of her head, a common practice in the Gurudwara. Meaning “God’s door,” the Gurudwara is a religious temple for those of the Sikh faith. Inside the temple, a congregation of 70 people awaited the union of the bride and groom. Embossed in bangle sets, necklaces, earrings, embroidery, and embellishment, Daljit glistened with gold ornaments. Extravagant art covered her arms and legs from the previous evening’s Mehndi ceremony, where female family members gathered with the bride. They decorated her skin with delicate designs of paisley and curving fractals using mehndi, the Hindi word for henna. “When you wear the dress, it brings you into a festive mood. You feel that you belong and now is the time to enjoy the festivities and your life,” says Bagga. For Bagga and his wife, the clothing they wore to their wedding ceremonies acted as a symbol of their faith and their love for one another. Although he doesn’t wear a heavily decorated wedding ensemble every day, the clothing Bagga wears daily, especially his turban, expresses his true identity and is a reminder of the memories he has with traditional clothing. g

Bagga poses on the steps of the David Owsley Museum of Art. As part of his Sikh faith, he wears a turban. According to Bagga, he will occasionally switch it out for a baseball cap or woolen hat, but his head always remains covered. Shannon McCloskey, Ball Bearings

Kurta Pyjama The kurta pyjama consists of two parts — the kurta, a long, loose-fitting tunic shirt, and the pyjama, the pants. The garment can be made out of silk, cotton, or brocade fabric and can feature detailed embroidery. Source: Strand of Silk Alex Hindenlang, Ball Bearings Illustration

Jay Bagga and his wife Daljit at a Cornerstone Center for the Arts event showcasing South Asian culture. Erin Moore, Photo Provided

Spring 2021 | Ball Bearings | 37

Technology has become an integrated part of every other part of our lives, why not in our clothing? By Kami Geron

ould you rather your clothing be an expression of yourself or tell you when you were about to have a heart attack? As crazy as it may seem, our clothing is so much more than just telling strangers how cool you are. Smart clothing can be anything from making clothing comfier to making you bulletproof. But this isn’t all that new. Smart technology has been around since the late 1960s, but it wasn’t till 2004 that it became a part of our everyday appearance. Smartwatches, smartphones, and smart clothing have been on the rise; now, technology is officially taking over. “I would put [smart clothing] in the last 20 years or so,” says Diana Saiki, professor of fashion merchandising at Ball State. Saiki says that while technology in the Industrial Revolution did improve mass production of clothing, the 20th century was when significant development of “ready-to-wear” clothing began. Smart clothing refers to clothing that does more than just cover you. It has buttons to push and features like temperature control. Most notable is the incorporation of technological accessories, such as smartwatches. “I personally have a Fitbit, and I love it to death,” says senior fashion major Hanna Evelyn. “I mostly use it to track my exercise, sleep, and water intake. It has definitely helped me keep track of my wellness and make the necessary changes to keep myself healthy.” For the first time in history, physical

38 | BallBearingsMag.com | Spring 2021

technology can be found in our everyday fashion. For example, different soled shoes use technologies involving arch support to heal your feet. Hanna’s winter coat has heat insulation technology. This feature is possible because of a technology that makes polymers of fabric react when exposed to heat. Like your own skin has pores, so do the materials that make up temperature-controlled garments. Pores close up to trap heat and open up to let air flow in when the wearer gets too warm. “I have a big passion for fashion sustainability,” says Hanna. “There are already a lot [of sustainable companies] out there, but until companies stop greenwashing and more consumers stop overbuying, there isn’t much we can do.” Greenwashing is a public relations tactic to trick buyers into believing companies are doing more to protect the environment than they actually are. It was created in the 1960s because nuclear power needed a way to compete with the anti-nuclear movement. The encouragement to be green moved to hotels asking customers to reuse towels and car companies covering up violating the Clean Air Act. Now, companies like Nestle are trying to convince you that their single-use plastic bottles are “environmentally responsible.” As you can see, the lies companies tell to be trendy are endless, so it’s no shock that it’s woven into the fashion industry, too. “I’ve seen that there is research happening to turn spider webs into silk, and I find it so interesting and can’t wait to see how that turns out,” says Hanna. “As a woman, I also would

Alex Hindenlang, Ball Bearings Illustration

Column

hope that more clothing will start to have larger pockets and more of them. In general, there is always so much happening behind the scenes so it’s very difficult to expect specific things regarding technology in fashion.” Hanna aspires to make convenient clothing, especially for women. She says that because we are a society with our phones on us constantly, it would be interesting to try and create charging jackets and pockets. While she might not be able to use spider silk to make clothing just yet, nanospinning and 4D printing are leading the way for technology-made fashion. Saiki says virtual clothing shopping is soon going to be a reality where customers can try on clothing via 3D imaging. “The consumer will be able to design their products more individualized, and it should come to them custom more easily than in the past,” she says. With the coronavirus pandemic shutting down stores, virtual fitting rooms came to the rescue. Company websites and apps like Zeekit allowed customers to “try on” earrings, clothes, and even makeup. Unfortunately, there are some hiccups. Personal and biometric data is given to the companies in an instant, letting them know in real-time what your lifestyle is. It’s important to check your surroundings and privacy settings before you try on your next top. But there is hope that as technology advances, 3D body scanners could be used to make “contactless” fitting rooms to bring back traffic to America’s malls. “The pros [for technology in clothing] are mainly for monitoring health, exercise clothing

that monitors movement or motivates you to move, color changes of clothing in emergencies, tracking a loved one by adding tracking devices to the clothing,” says Saiki. As for the future of clothing, Saiki says the goal is to make everyday life more convenient. Clothing that motivates you is a big seller in our pandemic lifestyles. Safety and aesthetics need to be considered, too. Bags that could alert you if it has been stolen or if you left it somewhere could be a big hit for that one friend who is always forgetting their things. Mood clothing could be the next big thing, changing how you want it to be that day. And for all the people who fight with the washing machine, self-cleaning clothing is in the works. “I think adding technology to fashion can be a very good and important thing,” says Evelyn. “It can allow for more accessibility and comfort, and it would just add to the general ease of life. It could assist in making clothes more sustainable and maybe even biodegradable. However, it would make the cost of clothing go up. Clothing is a necessity and the more expensive it becomes, the less available it will be.” When it comes to imagining what the future of technologically integrated textiles will be, the possibilities are endless. Research labs are working on making their own reusable materials and even powersuits. Some researchers are testing mood clothing and touch-screen clothes. Maybe one day you will be able to fly to work by putting on your work suit, but for now, you get to be stylish and comfortable. Don’t believe it? Just take a look at your smartwatch. g

The pros [for technology in clothing] are mainly for monitoring health, exercise clothing that monitors movement or motivates you to move, color changes of clothing in emergencies, tracking a loved one by adding tracking devices to the clothing. - Diana Saiki, Ball State Fashion Merchandising Professor

Spring 2021 | Ball Bearings | 39

Softwearable

Take a look at some current innovations in clothing technology. Illustrations By Kami Geron

The Accessories The Apple Watch was released in 2015 as Apple’s breakout into the wearable tech market. Earlier models focused mostly on fitness-monitoring features, but current models incorporate the ability to talk, stream music, and utilize Siri. Apple Watch Series 6, the most current model, can measure your blood oxygen level. Source: Apple, Verizon

40 | BallBearingsMag.com | Spring 2021

The Processes 4D printing is a lot like 3D printing, but the materials printed are designed to adapt and change over time, making them useful for clothing. This technology could lead to innovations in clothing that can adapt to the temperature, sound, altitude, or pressure of an environment. Source: selfassemblylab.mit.edu; onlinelibrary.wiley.com

The Future The Harvard Biodesign Lab is developing an “exosuit.” This lightweight, back-packlike device is designed to assist in daily activities and help take stress off of joints. This technology could be used to help soldiers carrying heavy loads, assist the elderly, or help people who have conditions such as multiple sclerosis and experience muscle weakness. Source: biodesign.seas.harvard.edu

Spring 2021 | Ball Bearings | 41

Column

Alex Hindenlang, Ball Bearings Illust

ration

42 | BallBearingsMag.com | Spring 2021

TOP-NOTCH TC SNEAKERS Ball State student Payton Johnson talks about being part of sneakerhead culture and his shoe collection. By Corynne Menard

neakerheads. You may have heard of them— they’re avid collectors and enthusiasts of sneakers who are always on the hunt for their next pair of shoes. Ball State University junior Payton Johnson knows all about this hobby and the culture surrounding sneakers. “I like how you can make different relationships and friendships just through the love of sneakers,” says Payton. “I’ve made so many different friends this way. It’s kind of like a hunt to try and find the latest shoes, and it’s a

lot of fun.” Payton is majoring in criminal justice and minoring in leadership studies and fashion design. He has been collecting shoes since high school after he got his first job. “I used to work at Finish Line, and we got a nice discount, which definitely made my addiction worse,” he says. Payton fueled his addiction further while employed at Finish Line by grabbing a pair of glow-in-the-dark Adidas Yeezys Boost 350 V2s. Collectors usually have an inspiration that makes them want to start adding to their stockpile. For Johnson, it was the influence of his father that began his love of sneakers. “My dad has a huge collection of Jordans. I always saw his collection in the basement. I always thought they were cool. I couldn’t fit into

Spring 2021 | Ball Bearings | 43

Column

Payton Johnson, a junior studying criminal justice, shows off his shoes that he has collected since high school. Corynne Menard, Ball Bearings

44 | BallBearingsMag.com | Spring 2021

his, so I started collecting my own,” Payton says. “I love to collect shoes that were worn by famous basketball players in the 80s and 90s and shoes that were in famous movies. My favorite famous pair of all time are the shoes from ‘Back to the Future,’ the self-lacing Nike Air Mags.” Currently, Payton estimates that he has about 150 pairs in his sneaker collection. He brought a few of his favorite pairs with him to campus, but most of his shoes are at his home in South Bend, Indiana. He says he has two favorite shoe brands that he can’t own enough pairs of – Nike’s Air Jordans and Kayne West’s Yeezys. “I can’t really describe the love I have for Jordans, but Kanye is more of the future-type when it comes to fashion designers, and I’m here for it,” Payton says. “I’ve noticed a lot of shoe designers will take similar designs and just tweak them slightly to create a ‘new shoe’ and call it their own, but Kanye has changed the whole shoe game.” Payton says his top three most-wanted sneakers are the Chicago Jordan 1s, which are currently reselling for upwards of $1,500 after the success of the Michael Jordan documentary series “The Last Dance,” the Adidas Yeezy Boost 750s, which are currently reselling at an average of $2,000, and the Nike Air Yeezy 1s, coming in at a whopping $5,000 a pair on sneaker reselling websites. Any collector knows that building your ultimate treasure trove comes with a cost, and sneaker collecting is no different. According to auction house Christie’s, the pair of shoes worn by star basketball player Michael Jordan — notable for having a shard of glass embedded in one sole from a backboard Jordan shattered during a game — became the most expensive pair of sneakers sold at auction in history when they sold for $615,000 in 2020. While Payton has not shelled out anywhere near that amount for a pair of shoes, he understands the high costs associated with wanting to own special sneakers. The most expensive pair of shoes he currently owns are the Travis Scott x Air Jordan 1 High OGs. “I paid about $900 for them,” he says. “They go for $1,400 a pair, but I traded some other shoes to bring the cost down.” Payton is open to trading some of the sneakers in his collection when the price is right, but it has to be for a pair he knows he’ll truly appreciate. “I really like to keep my shoes, unless I get a crazy good offer that’s in my favor. That’s the only way I’ll really trade,” he says. “I don’t really like to sell, but if I haven’t really worn the shoes in a long time, I’ll consider selling them. I’d rather them go to someone who will wear and enjoy the shoes and not trash them.” If you ask any sneakerhead about their favorite pair of shoes, they’re bound to have a backstory, and with Payton, it’s no different. “My Air Jordan 1 Retro Bred pair is my favorite. They’re black and red. I got them when I was in high school,” he says. “I didn’t have a car back then, so I had to call everybody in my family for rides to take me to shoe stores before they opened to camp out for hours. People would

Junior Payton Johnson reflects on his hunt for shoes to build his collection of about 150 pairs of shoes. As his mom turns his old bedroom into a sewing room, the majority of Payton’s shoe collection exists in boxes in the basement. He has kept some of his favorites with him. Corynne Menard, Ball Bearings

I can’t really describe the love I have for Jordans, but Kanye is more of the futuretype when it comes to fashion designers, and I’m here for it. - Payton Johnson, Junior Criminal Justice Major at Ball State University

fight over spots in line, and there was even a robbery at the store the day I got these Jordans. Somehow, I was able to grab this pair safely at Jonathon’s Shoes in South Bend.” A large part of sneakerhead culture is staying on top of the latest releases and keeping an eye out for what shoes are coming out in the near future. “There’s a couple of pairs that are releasing this summer that I’m saving up for,” Payton says. “There’s some new Yeezys from Kanye that are different from other silhouettes he’s made, so I’m looking forward to those, as well as the Air Jordan 1 High Retro OG Burgundy Crush shoes. They’re coming out around Christmas, and they haven’t been released since the 1990s.” Payton says he will continue to grow his collection for years to come. To fund his sneaker stockpile, he has big plans upon leaving Ball State next year. “After I graduate, I want to move back to my home in South Bend and join the police department,” he says. “Sometime later on, I want to join a federal force like the FBI to work in forensics.” Of course, Payton wouldn’t be wearing his latest pair of Yeezys to any crime scene investigations. That would certainly break the unwritten sneakerhead rule of keeping your kicks clean at all times. g Spring 2021 | Ball Bearings | 45

Feature

Spring 2021 | Ball Bearings | 47

By Arianna Sergio Illustrations By Maggie Getzin

ne of my favorite stores is Guess. They are one of the cheaper upscale stores, and if I ever commit to purchasing something “high-end,” I always purchase from them. They are known for their flattering denim jeans, but they also produce rich handbags and lush accessories. These products are often branded with their world-famous question mark design and signature flaming red, milky white, and elegant black colors. Guess is designed by Paul Marciano. Louis Vuitton is designed by Nicholas Ghesquière. Gucci is designed by Alessandro Michele. These well-known brands are just a few amongst countless others that are designed by men. A study from Business of Fashion found that only 14% of leading womenswear brands in 2018 were run by women. Glamour, the Council of Fashion Designers of America, and the consulting firm McKinsey and Company surveyed 535 professionals throughout the fashion industry to discuss opportunities they’ve each received, their goals and aspirations, and setbacks they’ve encountered. The women surveyed unanimously said that gender inequality is an issue in the fashion industry, whereas only half of men surveyed thought it was an issue. The Glass Runway, a 2015 study that dives deep into gender inequality in the fashion industry, found men who perform “women’s work” experience a “glass escalator” of career advantages. The glass escalator is a phenomenon that discusses how there are hidden advantages for men in stereotypically female professions, like getting promoted quicker. “Men are on the glass escalators and they just get this nice, free ride up. While a lot of women are still struggling in these female-dominated careers,” says Rachel Smith, assistant lecturer of women’s and gender studies at Ball State University.

48 | BallBearingsMag.com | Spring 2021

Fashion Industry

An analysis of how men are ruling the fashion industry.

Gender Statistics

Feature

$77,597

$61,245

86%

14%

Average Male Salary

of graduating fashion majors are female

18%

of men at senior levels report getting promoted without asking

Average Female Salary

of major brands are run by female executives

of women do

17%

100%

however...

meanwhile...

At entry level, women are

more likely than men to aspire to become top-level executives

At the vice president level, men are

20%

more likely than their female peers to aspire to become top-level executives

of women reported that gender inequality is a problem in the fashion industry

50%

of men reported that gender inequality is a problem Source: Glamour, New York Times, Data USA

I feel like [men] have an advantage when it comes to being in the fashion industry because I feel like there’s a lot of pressure put on women in regards to other aspects in their life. - Charlene Piccio, Sophomore Advertising and Communication major at the Fashion Institute of Technology

The glass cliff is a phenomenon where women will get promoted to a high leadership position during a time that is difficult for the company, where the chance of failure is at its highest. “When these companies, they see that they’re on the verge of bankruptcy, they’re on the verge of disaster, they’re on the verge of closing, they’ll throw a woman in there. So it’s booby trapped, in a way, for women… It’s been going on for years. It’s one more thing that women have to overcome. And, you know, we have to overcome a lot. And we’re tired of overcoming; we’re tired of having to literally fight for everything, and we still don’t get it,” says Smith. Smith points out that if anyone were to walk into any boutique, they would instantly be thrown into a world where men’s names are sewn into the labels of most of the items. According to a study Glamour, the Council of Fashion Designers of America, and McKinsey and Company conducted, when it comes to promotions, 18% of men in the fashion industry at senior levels reported getting promoted without asking, whereas only a mere 5% of women do. Charlene Piccio, a sophomore advertising and communication major at the Fashion Institute of Technology (FITNY), says that men do have an advantage in the fashion industry. She says male privilege definitely seems to give them the upperhand. “I feel like [men] have an advantage when it comes to being in the fashion industry because I feel like there’s a lot of pressure put on women in regards to other aspects in their life,” she says. Charlene believes that one of the main reasons for this is because of toxic masculinity, especially with men in leadership positions. According to her, there’s a double standard in place when it comes to men versus women in leadership positions. Men are often rewarded for not showing any emotion and being confident, but women who display these same traits are labeled as ‘catty,’ and viewed negatively. Charlene says people should really take note and be mindful of who the creative directors are when it comes to the lavish, grand, and costly clothing and accessories from the top fashion designers. “They’ll realize there’s actually a lot more men in those positions. For some reason, creative directors that are women

are not as spoken of, which is really weird in my opinion. In the industry, people know who Virgil Abloh is and Raf Simons, then when they hear a woman’s name as a creative director, they don’t know her as well,” Charlene says. “That’s odd, in a sense, because I feel like fashion usually puts pressure on the males, because fashion is typically a female-dominated industry. So they usually put more spotlight on them, but at the same time, they’re taking away the spotlight from the actual other females in the industry.” William Perrine, a senior lecturer in the fashion school at Kent State University, says that he, too, has noticed men ruling the fashion industry. “Unfortunately, fashion companies are companies. They have shareholders, they have stockholders, they have executive boards and all of that stuff. Most of the people that are on that level are white males, I mean, because they’re successful business people and other things,” Perrine says, “So when a brand or a company grows, they need somebody that knows how to run a big company, and they bring somebody in that’s maybe not a fashion person, they just know how to run a company.” It’s slowly looking up. According to a 2020 report from Nextail, representation of women in a CEO position increased to more than 75% in 2019. Perrine is very optimistic about the future because more women have been working toward that change in the fashion industry; some being his former students who are working their way up the corporate ladder.

“I mean, [change] is going to happen, but it’s just not happening as quickly as most people would like, including myself,” Perrine says. While men are primarily running the fashion industry, the companies in the industry are making powerful strides to become more inclusive in not only their products, but also in their marketing. Rihanna is one of the trailblazers at the forefront of this mission. The pop-star-turned-CEO of Fenty Beauty and Savage X Fenty is famous for not only her strong and entrancingly textured voice, but how inclusive she is; featuring models of all different shapes, sizes, and colors. Both of her companies ensure that people all around the world will be able to find makeup that is their correct shade and lingerie that compliments their skin tone and body type. Besides Rihanna, other prominent female fashion designers behind brands like Universal Standard and Kirrin Finch are making huge strides in the industry. Polina Veksler and Alex Waldman founded and design for their company, Universal Standard. In 2019, they became the most inclusive brand in the world with every item they have ranging from a size 00 to 40. Moffat and Sanders-Moffat founded and design for their gender-defying company, Kirrin Finch. Kirrin Finch is a menswear-inspired clothing company made to fit a range of female and non-binary bodies. With all these women being a part of the future for the fashion industry, the future is as bright as the Fenty Beauty Killawatt Freestyle highlighter. g

Spring 2021 | Ball Bearings | 51

MO NO CH RO ME

Dressing headto-toe in the same color is fashion’s latest trend. By Elliott DeRose

52 | BallBearingsMag.com | Spring 2021

Photo Essay

Model Kamryn Tomlinson tastes a cherry sucker out front of J. Demaree Construction Inc. She is wearing all red and decided to accessorize with her favorite pair of mushroom earrings.

Editors note: Models Kamryn Tomlinson and Maggie Getzin are designers for Ball Bearings Magazine.

Monochromatic fashion has become a trend in 2021. Celebrities like Jennifer Lopez have been seen sporting allone-color ensembles, like the all-white outfit the singer wore to President Joe Biden’s inauguration. Kim Kardashian recently showed off an all-brown look, garnering more than 3 million likes on Instagram. And let’s not forget about Gigi Hadid, who’s known for expertly styling cohesive monochromatic looks. Get inspired to scour your wardrobe for a color-cohesive look with these outfits from Ball State University students.

Model Maggie Miller poses outside of the construction site of the new Foundational Sciences building on Ball State University’s campus.

Photo Essay

Model Maggie Getzin poses in her yellow monochromatic outfit next to the Two Cats mural in the Village at Ball State University. This is Getzin’s favorite mural in Muncie. Sporting an all-green ensemble, model Kamryn Tomlinson reads a book along the bank of the White River in Muncie.

54 | BallBearingsMag.com | Spring 2021

Model Maggie Getzin poses next to a blooming tree in Muncie. Spring is Getzin’s favorite time of the year because of all of the colorful plants. Model Maggie Miller poses outside of LaFollette wearing her favorite pair of jeans. Miller enjoys layering outfits with pieces like flannels and light jackets.

Spring 2021 | Ball Bearings | 55

Lifestyle

CARDINAL CLOTHING We asked Ball State University alumni to send in pictures of their favorite vintage Ball State apparel and tell the story behind it. Captions By Haley Boyce

Kieth Nathanielh, a 2012 grad, shows off his BSU hoodie. Nathanielh received the hoodie as a gift after he was accepted into Ball State. Keith Nathanielh, Photo Provided

Robin Whitesel, current Ball State senior, smiles in her mom’s Ball State college of business sweatshirt from the 80s. Whitesel will graduate as a fifth generation Cardinal this May. Robin Whitesel, Photo Provided

2020 grad Emily Motsinger smiles in her vintage BSU crewneck. Emily Motsinger, Photo Provided

Erika Klages, class of 2010, shares a photo from Christmas day 1990, opening her brand new Ball State T-shirt. Erika Klages, Photo Provided Sandy Holle Stults (center) stands alongside her family in her 1963 Ball State cheerleading sweatshirt. Sandy Stults, Photo Provided

2013 grad Alex McIntire snaps a photo wearing her dad’s vintage BSU tee. Her dad graduated in 1979. Alex McIntire, Photo Provided

56 | BallBearingsMag.com | Spring 2021

Anthony Cook, class of 2017, shows off his grandfather’s vintage Ball State basketball crewneck. Anthony Cook, Photo Provided

Daniel Wood, a 2020 grad, shows off a vintage BSU track and field crewneck. Wood, who’s currently receiving his master’s at Ball State, collects vintage clothing. Daniel Wood, Photo Provided

o t n i g n i r p S U ID! S B h t i bar w y d n a Free c

Visit Muncie’s sweet shop today for all your candy needs!

Mon.-Fri. 9 a.m.-6:30 p.m. • Sat. 9 a.m.-5 p.m. 6255 W. Kilgore Ave. • (765) 288-7300 • lowerycandies.com