dujour
fashion with sprinkles on top
THE UK WHERE THE BEAUTIFUL PEOPLE ARE (SURPRISINGLY!) MODEL CITIZEN JOSIE MARAN KNOWS A THING OR TWO ABOUT GOOD LOOKS FASHION, FASHION! PRETTY GIRLS WEARING PRETTY THINGS...
hion s a F ing Spr ew i Prev
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The Art Issue Alicia Bock Artaksiniya Dallas Shaw Leigh Bullard Angeline Melin Sandra Suyillos
the d-list: Alison Lewis - Complex Geometries - Mociun - Ryan Wilde - Julianna Bass - Spring & Clifton
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EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Letitia Burrell DESIGN AND ART DIRECTION Eddie Rodriguez CONTRIBUTING FEATURE WRITERS Anna Furney, Deena Campbell CONTRIBUTING BEAUTY EDITOR Jan F. Lee INTERNS Kim Yang, Katlin Taosaka, Stelios Philli, Jasmin Sun COPY EDITOR Claire Valgardson MASCOTS Coco & Snowflake CONTRIBUTORS Akinsya, Alicia Bock, Angeline Melin, Bethany Bandera, Bianca Toeps, Dallas Shaw, Denise Boomkens, Edith Dohmen, Eduardo Rodriguez, Elliot Jimenez, Esperanza Moya, Geraldine Georges, Honor Bowden, Jen & Jamie, Jessica Goldfond, Kristin Costello, Leigh Bullard, MaRaZ, Marnix Postma, Nicole Maria Wrinkler, Nikolas Schot, Sandra Suyillos, Sara Coe PR/MARKETING DIRECTOR Shallom Johnson press@dujourmag.com PUBLISHER Letitia Burrell
All rights reserved. No parts of this publication may be reproduced in whole or in part without permission from the publisher. The views expressed in DUJOUR are those of the respective contributors and are not necessarily shared by the publisher. Š 2009 LOOKLOOK Publishing. www.dujourmag.com
Enjoy, but please recycle. Printed on-demand in the USA.
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March/April
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in every issue editor’s note.........................................................................................9 contributors.........................................................................................6 dear dujour..........................................................................................8 p.s. you forgot your personal style..................................................59 5
contributors
Jan F. Lee Beauty Editor
D What do you do? I’m a writer. D What inspires you? Just thinking about this crazy, crazy world we live in. Where do you find art in your daily life? Books D Who is your favorite artist? Dali D What was your most artistic creation? The clothes I used to make for my teddy bear when I was younger. They were hot!
Jasmin Sun Graphic Designer
D What do you do? Journalism student at the University of Texas and freelance Graphic Designer D What inspires you? Architectural shapes, innovation (I love gadgets and am a closet geek), Abstract shapes, Surrealist art D Where do you find art in your daily life? I love looking at amazing clothing, and the art it creates out of life, be it from cool Etsy shops or the ever-growing pile of various fashion magazines that sits atop my desk. D Who is your favorite artist? René Magritte.
Kim Yang Intern
D What do you do? I’m simply a student who’s lucky enough to be an intern for a fabulous magazine. That, and a blogger.D What inspires you? Music is a huge inspiration; perhaps it’s because I’ve been dancing for what I’d say my whole life until now, and have always had this connection with it. Each genre of music, each artist I listen to inspires my mood and my ensemble for the day.Which is no surprise, when taken into account that my iPod is firmly attached to my hand at all times. Though music seems to be the most prominent of inspirations, other muses are derived simply from cities themselves; the energy and the people are just incredible.
Anna Furney Freelance Writer
D What do you do? I work as a freelance writer and illustrator out of New York City’s Lower East Side - currently finishing work on my first novel!! D Where do you find art in your daily life? Mostly, I find art through my work as an artist and illustrator. If however, I’m feeling uninspired, walking out the door and into the sunshine of NYC’s streets, always energizes and enlightens. The electricity of the city - it’s art, its culture, its appreciation for aesthetics in all varieties is itself a form of art. D What was your most artistic creation? Either my children’s book illustrations or a life-sized bust of a woman’s face in porcelain - she’s rather eye catching atop our living room’s end table and always makes for hilarious conversation.
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Esperanza Moya Photographer
D What do you do? I’m a fashion photographer from Barcelona.D What inspires you? The play of light is my inspiration. I love thinking about stories where the natural light is the main element. D Where do you find art in you daily life? Everything it can be art in my daily life… A moment of the day, a landscape, a countryside, an attitude…D Who I s your favorite artist? If I have to choose… Tim Walker. DWhat was your most artistic creation? I’m still looking to do it...
Deena Campbell Freelance Writer
D What do you do? I’m a freelance writer and editor for various fashion and beauty websites and magazines in New York. In my spare time I serve as cofounder ad editor for News-Drops.com. D What inspires you? I receive inspiration from the smallest intricacies in life— random occurrences, awkward moments, sunshines during thunderstorms and puzzling quotes. D Where do you find art in your daily life? I enjoy unexpectedly running into talented street performers. D Who is your favorite artist? Definitely Andy Warhol.
Katlin Taosaka Intern
D What do you do? Full time student at the University of Hawai’i. D What inspires you? I absorb everything around me! Right now, I’m really into National Geographic’s photos.D Where do you find art in your daily life? Nature and through my camera lens. D Who is your favorite artist? My mom and brother. D What was your most artistic creation? Photo collages. Layering images or juxtaposing fashion with nature.
Bianca de Jong Photographer
D What do you do? I’m a model-turned-photographer. Through modeling I met a lot of inspiring people, that made me interested in photography D What inspires you? I like to observe people. I like to experiment. I like the amateur photo’s my mom made when I was a little kid. I love cheesy and childish stuff like Disneyland and Star Wars D Where do you find art in your daily life? Everywhere, really. When I’m not running around all stressed out, I see little things everywhere. A graffiti artist that put a sticker on the escalator, someone dressed really cool, a brilliant ad campaign on the billboards. D What was your most artistic creation? Recently we made a models’ hair completely orange, for a shoot! Now I’m gonna bake myself some cake.
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deardujour
Dear Dujour, Let me just say how much I liked the photo shoots you had in the last issue. Your photographers have a great aesthetic sense. The “get some colors on” shoot and the little black dress series, both of which looked absolutely stunning, especially impressed me. With talent like that I’m sure your magazine will do very well. Keep up the good work. Ben . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Dear Dujour, Wow, your magazine is amazing! I remember seeing the cover of the very first issue last summer, and didn’t think too much of it. I don’t know how I came across it this time around, but glad I did. I see the magazine is inching towards being one of my new faves. The content is so great and the ideas are exactly what I love to read, especially last month’s Internet Issue. You don’t really see mainstream magazine showcasing Etsy brands in the same light as Louis Vuitton. It will be exciting to see what else your editors continue to share. Maybe I should subscribe? Kara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Dear Dujour, I modeled in your last issue and it took a while to track down a copy. I think you should let people know where to find the magazine because it’s great! I have to be honest, I don’t really read the magazines, I just rip out my pages and scan them, but I just so happen to have caught a glimpse of a story about a brand I liked, and from there I couldn’t put it down. It reminds me of Nylon, there are so many great indie designers that I otherwise never hear about. Hope you use me again! Daria
In-love with our cover model? Didn’t care for the fashion tips? Send your rants, raves and reviews to fanmail@dujour.com
Dear Dujour, Ok so I got my copy of Dujour in the mail today, a tad later than I expected, but its okay. I love, love the cover, even better in person. The Little Black Dress story was hands down my favorite. I just found out you are doing a digital edition online as well which I love because I can easily click on the links to all the great brands you cover, like NEET if you have heard of them. I definitely want to see the next issue to see if you are subscription-worthy, but from what I hear on the blogs, this is going to be a magazine I want to keep an eye on. Thanks for bringing us something fun and interesting! Dani . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Dear Dujour, I really didn’t like your first issue because it looked like a student project, but I am so happy to see the new issue online! The theme of covering Internet brands was such a great idea and I am usually the first to know about all things Etsy, but I am surprised to have actually learned something. I like that a mainstream magazine is giving the underdogs some spotlight. I am quite intrigued now to see what comes next; I suspect you will have another great theme up your sleeves. Jennifer
Write to us for a chance to win this uber cuteand totally useful hand-painted tote by Suite, the emerging label from Project Runway’s own Jennfer Diedrich!
Editor’s
Note
I never knew or cared much for art. That is, until I was accepted into the top fashion program for high school students in the country, which just so happened to be located at a fine arts school. Just my luck, right? If you ever wondered what could make a sane person holding a pencil to paper sweat as if she were running a marathon in Texas, then place a totally artistically dysfunctional neophyte in front of a still life scene and ask her to draw it to perfection. By my sophomore year I was able to segway into my fashion major. But, needless to say, the continuous requirement to fulfill art credits drove me insane, and I hit the road for the second-best fashion school in the country. Yet after my schooling, I found that fashion acts as a bridge or insight into the art world, satisfying my criosity as to what qualifies as art and how art inspires other media. Over the last few years, fashion has become art and art has become fashion; at every turn, we have seen everything from collaborations to installations. Although I, along with many others, can’t paint a nude model to save our lives, we must appreciate the fact that everyone is granted the freedom to create. It was only natural for me to make this issue the Art Issue, so that we all can embrace each other’s artistic realizations, and be inspired to continue doing the things that make us happy in our daily lives, whether it’s creating embossed note cards or graphic T-shirts. You’ll fall in love with the ethereal and poignant images of Alicia Bock, or with the handful of designers making their stamp on the fashion world. Art is in the sky, on the streets, and in everything we do, just like fashion. So what are you waiting for? Turn the page!
Letitia Editor-in-Chief
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news
Cool things to tell your friends over tea and cookies.
RECYCLE, REUSE
Mark Liu, a Central Saint Martins graduate, doesn’t let any fabric go to waste. This Londonbased designer uses innovative pattern cutting techniques to eliminazte any excess fabric during production, ultimately creating one hell of a sustainable product. His upcoming fall 2009 collection, titled Singularity Point—referring to the point when a system ”eventually rewrites its own rules to take control of its own destiny”—was featured at Estethica, an eco-sustainable exhibition during London Fashion Week. Liu showcased his water-based print dresses that embody the delicate flutter of a butterfly. Mark, write the rules and we will follow. www.stique.com
GOING GOING GREEN
Kermit was wrong. It’s damn easy being green— especially with the help of Lisa Kirkpatrick of Esta Sketch. Recycling, repetition, and paper’s two dimensions are Kirkpatrick’s best friends and the stuff of our future ecocessories. Her ceramic pendants, made from white raku clay, act as wearable art, featuring shrunken and cropped versions of Kirkpatrick’s delicate sketches. Fashion Week. Liu showcased his water-based print dresses that embody the delicate flutter of a butterfly. Mark, write the rules and we will follow. www.stique.com
YEAH YEAH YEAH
No really, this is genuinely exciting! The Yeah Yeah Yeahs’ forthcoming release, It’s Blitz!, will be out March 31. The YYYs are promising a synthtastic departure in sound. Yet amidst the electro-grooves, one thing will remain constant: Karen O’s costumes. More YYYs in ’09 equals more of the fantastically quirky (and occasionally space-chic) designs of Christian Joy. Throughout February and early March, New York’s Audio Visual Gallery is exhibiting her latest in otherworldly art-fashion. In the meantime, our inner indie rocker is impatient to don her spring collection.
PRETTY BABY
For fall 2009, Koi Suwannagate has teamed up with Manolo Blahnik to create custom designed shoes to mirror the delicately sculpted cashmere sweaters and slim-fitting pants in her collection. The clusters of cashmere at the heel create an interesting silhouette and are the perfect juxtaposition to the sleek, black leather. These babies are a blissful union of badass and sweet that have us looking forward to fall. koisuwannagate.com or manoloblahnik.com Available by special order through Manolo Blahnik.
FOX IN MOCIUN
Alyson Fox plus Mociun equals Fox in Mociun. The equation may be simple, but such is the beauty (and clever titling) of Alyson Fox’s collaboration with Mociun. Their spring collection will feature limited edition dresses, tees, totes, and scarves. One such dress artfully makes a fashion statement with geometry, while a Fox in Mociun tee turns an inkblot test from Rorschach to Rorschic. How’s that for wordplay?
CATCHING ON
Now in their second season, the team over at Quiksilver Women’s have been quietly designing clothes that embody the fuss-free style of surfer gals that a big city girl could just as easily pull off. Their spring 2009 collection features silhouettes that are basic, yet whose subtle details turn them into instant closet staples. Dorothy, we aren’t in Southern California anymore. womens. quiksilver.com
THE ONE
Currently residing in Stockholm, Gill produces designs that are incredibly creative and thoughtful, yet quite simple. “I want them to exude each wearer’s style rather than create it,” explains Misha Gill of the pieces from her recently launched line MishaMarket. Her artfully draped tunics can be worn by any body type and in multiple ways, making her an innovative and promising young designer. What can we expect next from her? “I’m obsessed with the pairing of nude and black; you’ll definitely see that. I also want to do a set of basic items that are soft knits—no leather—that I can sell for a very minimal price.” We can’t wait!
THE BROTHERS BLOOM
What’s bigger than Adrian Brody’s nose? The vintage fashion in his upcoming film, The Brothers Bloom! Beatrix Aruna Pasztor (Good Will Hunting, Vanity Fair) has designed the deliciously dandy outfits for the suave conmen Stephen (Adrian Brody) and Bloom (Mark Ruffalo) as they attempt to swindle a wealthy heiress, played by Rachel Weisz. They may be criminals, but they make stealing look damn classy. Expect sophisticated pin-stripe suits and bowler hats galore.
SHE’S BACK!
Mirah has the uncanny ability to dip her toes ever so slightly into different genres while still remaining uniquely her. “The Garden” was a musical work of art beloved by indie darlings everywhere, which was also used for a jazz number on So You Think You Can Dance. On March 10, we delve a little deeper into her world with the release of her latest album, (a)spera. And judging by the cover alone—which captures the monochromatic colors and ‘80s shoulders trend perfectly— this album is going to be a gem. www.krecs. com
MEET YOUR MAKER HEAD HAPPY
Recession is the new luxury. Now that our economy is mimicking the stylings of the 1929 crash, it’s time for us to start wearing the headgear. And San Francisco-based designer Behida Dolic is crafting up a handmade, vintage hat storm. From ‘20s style cloche hats to ‘40s style cocktail hats, each of Dolic’s pieces is one of a kind. She also does custom orders and wedding hats and veils. Let the neo-Jazz Age begin.
Bow down and meet your clothing’s creator—Sonia Rykiel. She pioneered inside-out stitching, no-hem and no-lining, as well as printed words on sweaters. Though she dubbed her style “la démode,” or un-fashion, her influence on women’s fashion is undeniable. Come April 14, Rizzoli Publications will release Sonia Rykiel. The book features essays that discuss her impact on women’s clothing and photos that span a career’s worth of runway shows. Ooh la!
SISTER ACT DISTRACTED
Forget Sex and the City, it’s all about Ritalin and the Internet. Cynthia Nixon (Sex and the City) is starring in Lisa Loomer’s Distracted. The play centers around an American mother, her responsibility as a parent, the web, and the ageold question behind attention deficit disorder: to Ritalin or not to Ritalin? Don’t lose focus. You have until May 17th to see this show.
Sister Act, sans Whoopi. Actress Sienna Miller and younger sister Savannah release the new collection, Beyond Mount Macedon, from their label Twenty8Twelve. Artfully scholarly, the clothes are inspired by the film, Picnic At Hanging Rock, which centers around Victorian repression. Deep. Fortunately the line is not as weighty as it sounds. From crème to vibrant yellow, the clothes are light and characteristically spring. The “Victorian repression” isn’t visible, and we’re not complaining.`
ag.con
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fashionalities
Je ne sais quoi Sometimes you come across such an inspiring novel designer, you yourself might be just as young, and feel like a proud mama (or papa?) nonetheless. Such is the case with Claire from the now two-year-old Barcelonabased label, Cocotte Couture. What’s funny is that I actually remember reading a book by blogger Kathleen Fasanella some time ago on starting a clothing line, and I was without a doubt in agreement with her advice on naming brands. ‘Steer clear of adding words like couture to your brand name,’ she would write. Sure enough, I had always cringed when I came upon names like Susie’s Sewing Atelier or Mooso Creative Designs. There is something so outdated and nauseating about those descriptive words being part of your company title. So imagine my relief when unearthing Cocotte two seasons ago, the Etsy shop barely in toddler stages, and in plain view were rows of refined and tailored pieces in the most gorgeous jewel tones any Crayola box could ever create. Claire is the kind of hidden gem that makes you want to curl up one Sunday with a martini in one hand, popcorn in the other, and watch documentaries marathon-style about how some of our great icons like DVF, Karl and YSL all got started. Her raw talent to not only design such classic and timeless collections, but also brand her own company im-
age, is quite admirable for a girl barely in her twenties. Like many savvy designers emerging in this age of technology, Claire launched herself a blog as well as an Etsy store not too long after her debut. When you look back on the archives, one thing is clear, Cocotte has come a long way from the cute and kitschy designs that once paraded around on the Internet. What was once youthful cotton dresses reminiscent of French boudoir tea parties has now grown into coveted, feminine, day-to-night pieces perfect for a young sophisticate with a hectic lifestyle. Intuitive enough to understand the budgetary limitations of expansion, Claire has opted to work with local accessory designers (who just so happen to be her uber talented best friends) to further shape the Cocotte brand, creating a lifestyle image for the ideal Cocotte woman. Lucie Saint-Leu is the mastermind behind the breathtaking hand-sewn and enamled jewelry, while Fredy Conte’s label, À l’heure de l’apéro, produces the original belts you see nipping the waists of the beautiful cascading ruffle mini dresses from Cocotte’s Spring 2009 collection. “My ideas for a collection are always very abstract, but somehow [Lucie] gets them and is able to add some sense to it. For this collection, I was inspired by Frida Kahlo’s personality and tastes as a collector, Indian and Polynesian tribal chiefs, other female artists like Louise Nevelson, tropical plants, and so
on and so forth. Just a bunch of stuff really! I definitely wanted something bold, colorful and inspired by nature. She came out of the cabinet with the idea of Natural Curiosities and everything just made sense,” Claire admits. Altogether, the collaboration between the three make for such a harmonious and stunningly simple collection. The Libellules necklace against the coral Mina dress is pure poetry, while the white enameled Coraux bodychains necklace paired with the royal blue Frida pleated blouse is like nothing you have seen this season. It might have you wondering if Barcelona is the Paris. In such a short period of time, Claire has triumphed where most designers with millions of dollars being thrown their way a la financial backers are yet to achieve, and that is simply that if a girl were to be walking down a sunny Barcelona street or sipping a latte at a quaint French bistro; her sexy beret casting shade over her masterfully draped amethyst colored frock, you wouldn’t have a doubt it was a Cocotte piece. This summer you can catch Claire making her rounds in Europe, selling her collection on April 11-12 in Paris at an event called Studio, then on June 13th and 14th at Changing Room in Barcelona.
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things we D
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Things...
we love about being a part D of ban.do D by Jen & Jamie
D D D Eating cookies that come in all colors of the rainbow. D Drinking champagne (to go with aforementioned cookies). D Having a studio that people refer to as “the candy store�. D Having a sweet caddy with an I heart ban.do vanity plate. D Having another reason to take pretty pictures. D Getting to go on fun adventures and vintage millinery stores. D Long lunches. D Being in a place where it is okay to take videos of ourselves dancing. D Late night design sessions while eating pizza. D Getting to make girls smile and swoon. D Having an outlet for our creativity. D Did we mention cupcakes?
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Things... D
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I spy in my studio
by Kelly Smith
D Gad Elmaleh and Audrey Tautou, twirling cocktail umbrellas on my wall. D A pink glow coming from the waste paper bin as the sun hits its side. D A mishmash of brushes swirled haphazardly around an empty mug, like a wooden flower arrangement. D Blobs of blue tack stuck absentmindedly to various objects. D A shiny new pair of sunglasses, their immaculate surface yet to meet the scratchy objects in my handbag. D Kat Macleod’s collaged ladies stitched to their pages, their water color hair leaking subtly to the edges. D Sasha Pivovorova dangling girlishly from an old children’s rocking horse. D Remnants of an HB pencil, shaved and littered on the carpet. D My parents in a photo booth, their ‘60s era hairstyles frozen forever in a monochrome time capsule. D Marion Cotillard perched precariously on top of the Eiffel Tower. D A white plastic palette covered in dried blobs of paint, waiting for revival from a drop of fresh water. D Sheets of once pristine paper, now printed on, scribbled on, written on.
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Who can forget gliding through Disney Land atop dad’s shoulders, when, for that day only, there was no limit to your cotton candy consumption and bedtime was almost a myth? Well, when Alicia Bock snaps a photo, prepare for utter rapture. Take, for instance, her lovebirds perching in a pink sky, or her Ferris wheels you’d mistake for rainbows, not to mention her signature landscapes, whose poignancy and sheer bliss demand the right to be printed life-size and distributed as a means of peace among UN Ambassadors. D I was lucky enough to come across your blog some months ago. Why are you such a hidden gem? I think there are millions of artists who are hidden gems. Starting a business from nothing takes so much time. I am really happy with the amount I have accomplished in the few years I have been selling my work. D In which city did the stork first drop you? And where are you based now? I was born in Holland, which is a little town on the Lake Michigan coast. Right now, I live in Lansing, Michigan, but I dream of getting back to my beachy beginnings. D How did art find you? I think I was born into the right family, one that really appreciates photography and preserving our greatest memories. I can’t remember not having a camera. I don’t know if art ever “found” me. I think it was always with me. I was just a little distracted for a while. D Does Gen Art or sets for Sex and the City and Grey’s Anatomy ring a bell? Yes! Wonderful experiences. D What are you experimenting with lately? I am stuck in vintage camera mode. I’m loving my Polaroids more than ever. D What is your definition of an indie lifestyle? To me, indie is being just a girl with a dream, and turning it into a successful business where I have total control over my work. I spend much time working alone, and the hours can be long. I am often the artist, web designer, marketing department, and accountant all in one. But the rewards are amazing. D I would imagine many must be envious of your life because you seem to be constantly surrounded by such beautiful things. Do you live in a fairytale land that Travel magazine has yet to cover? Michigan is blessed to be surrounded by such lovely lakes, and we have diversity in each of our seasons. But I think there is beauty everywhere. The city I live in isn’t particularly exceptional (in fact, I complain about it a lot). But I work with what I have, and constantly keep my eyes open for scenes that interest me. D Where do you find subject matter for your work? Everywhere … on road trips, and in my own backyard. D What is the life of an artist/photographer like? Has anything surprised you about how your life has taken shape? As a photographer, life slows down. You pay attention to all the details of your surroundings. I am usually slow to get anything done because I stop to take pictures. Most things surprise me because I never really had a vision of what my life would be like. I have never taken a photography class, so being able to call myself a photographer and spend my days doing what I love is a wonderful thing.D And where will I find you a year from now? Hopefully on some grand adventure. Each year as my children get older, I envision more travel in our future.
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hroughout the fall and winter I am very content in my little office, watching the snow fly. There are whole weekends when I declare it too cold to step outside. But, each year as the first hints of Spring awaken my senses, I find myself ready for some adventure. And all I can think about are drawing big vacation day XXXX’s all over my calendar. For me there is nothing better than...
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Things... I love about taking trips by Alicia Bock
D Spontaneous trips, the kind where you say, “let’s just drive until we get tired and then get a hotel room.” Then at 3 AM, you realize the closest town is 80 miles away, the rooms are full, and you have to sleep in the car.
D Going somewhere there is a time change, so you can frequently refer to what time it would be at home, and why you are lucky to be away.
D Judging the best food in the area: the best pizza in Chicago, the best clam chow der on the East Coast, the best fudge on Mackinac Island.
D Returning home with a large stack of Polaroids (the perfect souvenir!). No need to take the film in to get developed or sort through digital files.
D A campground on the beach, where the stars are as bright as you have ever seen them, and there is a cozy yurt built for two.
D Driving down Hwy 101 along the Oregon Coast, in a little convertible, top down. D New “vacation” clothes packed in your suitcase, just waiting to be worn. D Driving south until the air is scented with orange blossoms. D Guidebooks that are worn before the trip begins. D Coming home to your own bed. D The night before the flight. D Early cocktail hour. 17
photography: denise boomkens makeup: maaike beijer styling: jordy huinder model: dioni @ micha models.nl
Opposite Page: Dress by Django Steenbakker; Hoisery available at H&M This Page: Dress by Laura Dols
Dress by Mada van Gaans; Bra by Der Komissar; Hoisery available at H&M; Boots by Tommy Hilfiger
Hat stylist’s own; Dress by Spijkers&Spijkers; Hoisery available at H&M; Boots by Tommy Hilfiger
Dress by Der Komissar; Hoisery available at H&M
Dress by Kenkitchi; Hoisery available at H&M
can you see me now?
photography: esperanzamoya.com make up & hair: jose sequi for mac and redken stylist: gemma amigo model: martha penz
beauty
Model Citizen Imagine a young, bohemian-bred girl, just starting out in her modeling career, who hates to wear makeup. Now, fast forward some years later and imagine that same girl, although now she’s upgraded to supermodel/actress/beauty entrepreneur. This would be the story of Josie Maran. Growing up in Northern California, Josie developed an appreciation for the environment early on, living an eco-conscious lifestyle long before it became the “it” thing to do. After years in the industry, many of those as the face of Maybelline cosmetics, Josie decided there should be more high-quality, toxin-free makeup choices out there. What she was putting on her skin became especially important while she was pregnant with her daughter, Rumi Joon. Josie aimed to create a line where you don’t have to sacrifice luxury just because you have green conscience. And she did just that with the launch of Josie Maran Cosmetics. The line encompasses green living in all respects. It uses natural, organic and nontoxic ingredients you can actually pronounce and recognize. All packaging used is either recyclable and/or biodegradable. The compacts made out of a corn based plastic can just be thrown in the compost (after you take out the mirror). The packaging also features the most useful (and cute) labeling system. The little bunny icon means no animal testing and the heart means it’s made with love! D What prompted you to create a makeup line? With 17 years of modeling experience, I’ve obviously spent a lot of time in the makeup chair. I never heard about healthier alternatives that were functional enough to be used by professional makeup artists. If I had, I would have asked that we use them. While there are many sophisticated brands of cosmetics available today, not one of them exactly matched my personal philosophy of being green, so I set out to create my own. D Do you consider Josie Maran Cosmetics to be an indie line? Up until now, most natural skincare and cosmetics could only be found in health food stores. But now because the green movement is reaching so many more people, there has become more of a demand for itespecially when it comes to high end. I believe we struck a balance with the Josie Maran Cosmetics line that people will really appreciate.D How did it feel to have the Josie Maran Mascara picked as an Allure Best of Beauty winner? The mascara was the most difficult to create because most mascaras contain parabens as the preservative. Formulas that contain water, like mascara, are the products that need the most preservatives, but parabens are known for being toxic and cancer-causing. Plus, the eye area is so sensitive that bacteria must be controlled. So, we used dioxide as a non-toxic alternative for the preservative. It was a long process in perfecting the formula to ensure great functionality. D What’s your favorite product from the line? The finger paints are definitely one of my favorites from the collection. The feather-light shimmers in the palette can be used to bring soft, glowy color to cheeks, lips or eyes, and they contain natural, organic ingredients – no fragrances or parabens. Plus, who didn’t like finger paints as a kid. I think they’ll be a big hit because they’re fun to use for dressing up your look. Another favorite for men and women would be the Argan Oil. As a moisturizer for skin, hair and nails, this 100% organic wonder-ingredient is sure to be a favorite. My Argan Oil, housed in a recyclable glass bottle, is purchased from women’s cooperatives in Morocco, thereby supporting their social and economic welfare. These cooperatives also work within a UNESCO biosphere reserve which ensures the protection and reforestation of argan trees. D What’s in the future for the line? Josie Maran Cosmetics will definitely be coming out with seasonal collections. We’ll be keeping up with and setting trends. The line is based on the importance of natural beauty and natural tones, but I want to be playful and have fun with what’s fashionable season-to-season. New for this spring is the Earth Day Essentials Kit. You’ve got all you need to be Earth Day ready: Argan Oil, Plumping Lip Gloss, Cream Blush, Eye Liner and the awardwinning Mascara. You can find the Spring 2009 collection of Josie Maran Cosmetics at Josiemarancosmetics.com and Sephora.
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Beautiful Brittania Paris Hilton is dead. Okay, not literally, but anyone tuned into the blogosphere would agree that Ms. Hilton’s pop cultural influence has certainly waned (albeit it revived, for about five seconds, by her faux run for the presidency). In the context of the world’s financial woes, the Heiress of Excess appears to have lost her appeal. And with it, her generic look—the perma fake tan, the colored contact lenses, the blonde hair extensions, the bleached teeth—is looking painfully anachronistic. With the frugal recessionista taking the place of the spendthrift fashionista, Paris and her prodigal posse of LA ladies are, like, so five minutes ago. And so is the fake, excessive aesthetic they represent. In the place of Paris, Hef’s Playboy bunnies, the Pussycat Dolls, Pamela Anderson and the generic enhanced look adopted by every teen with a surgeon’s number and a picture of Heidi Montag, a new breed of pale, uncontrived beauties hailing from across the pond are capturing our attention while wearing their imperfections with pride. Dubbed the ‘Union Jack Pack,’ these British beauties are the antithesis of the Hollywood glamour girls we’ve become accustomed to seeing. Ushered in by the likes of Agyness Deyn, the pixie-cropped model responsible for making bike riding look cool and helping designer Henry Holland to wide acclaim, chart toppers Lily Allen and Amy Winehouse, actress Keira Knightley, and Kate Moss, whose personal style has been successfully commercialized by Topshop for worldwide consumption, the new names to know are Alexa Chung, Alice Dellal, Georgia Jagger and Daisy Lowe. A regular fixture on British best-dressed lists and UK ELLE Magazine cover girl, Chung, 25, is a former model and TV presenter who’s acquired ‘It girl’ status by virtue of her ’quirky style’ and penchant for mixing Chanel with high-street buys. The UK’s answer to Chloe Sevigny, Chung’s cat-eyed beauty is all pale skinned and natural hued, her brunette bob rendering her reminiscent of Zooey Deschanel. Her standard look involves a hint of pink cream blush, coal eyes and lashings of mascara. The face of Mango denim, Dellal’s signature punky, one-sided undercut and nose ring make her the poster girl for the kind of rule-breaking street chic championed by UK designer Vivienne Westwood. An appearance in Paris Vogue under her belt, Dellal’s heritage is Brazilian and British. The 5’5”, 21-year-old model once told Nylon Magazine: “When I was seven, I caught my reflection in a spoon and thought, ‘Wow! I’m ridiculously good-looking’” (presumably with tongue in cheek). Gap-toothed, Rapunzelesque blonde Georgia Jagger, at 16 the youngest daughter of Mick Jagger and Jerry Hall, and the sister of fellow model and former Lancome girl Elizabeth Jagger, has inherited her father’s prominent lips (often enhanced with red lipstick) and refused to get braces to correct her smile, telling a UK magazine: “This idea that everyone should conform and be perfect is ridiculous. I like the fact that I have good old-fashioned British teeth with a big gap. Who wants those gleaming white cosmetically enhanced American teeth?” The lovechild of Bush frontman (and Gwen Stefani’s husband) Gavin Rossdale and singer/songwriter Pearl Lowe, 19-year-old model Daisy is the face of Converse and lingerie line Agent Provocateur and, like Chung, favors smoky eyes and just-out-of-bed locks. The leggy brunette beauty is also outspoken about size 0, telling UK newspaper The Guardian: “I eat doughnuts and Red Velvet. I love curvaciousness. Curvy girls are the sexiest girls. If clothes were built for curvier women, which is most of the population, one: people would look better; two: designers would sell more clothes, and three: they wouldn’t have to use tiny anorexic models.” Will any of them share the longevity of Kate Moss, reach worldwide icon status or achieve Paris Hilton’s level of notoriety? Probably not. But I’m sure they don’t ‘give a toss.’
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Complex Geometries: Minimalists
photography: kristin brynn costello styling: letitia burrell hair: christophe kontos makeup: jenni klein model: natasha@muse
How nice the world would be if Calvin Klein pieces were not so expensive and had just a tad more rough-around-the-edges urban appeal (à la Maison Martin Margiela). Well, worry not. There are new minimalists in town and they go by the name of Complex Geometries. They’re a complete solution for your jealousy. No longer will you have to flip through Vogue huffing and puffing, or scroll through The Sartorialist in rage, perplexed at how effortlessly chic these women look. ‘How do they do it?’, you ask. It’s as simple as knowing the basics. Sporting layers of richly colored pieces with subtle precision-cut tailoring and masterful daytime draping is a sure-fire way to lead the pack. All these requirements are met by Complex Geometries’ Spring 2009 collection. “The collection is inspired by the culture of mobility, exploring the pragmatics and aesthetics of travel. Functionally, items are designed to be versatile, light and easy to move. Crumpled silk packs small. Coated fabrics stay clean and dry. Light construction means items can be layered, even in warm climates,” explains Complex Geometries designer, Adam Dekeyser. Some pieces admittedly will be hard to figure out, and as with any work of art, some interpretation is necessary. The tongue-in-cheek linen white shorts with an almost diaper-like silhouette are a simple large white cut of fabric in their original form, until one wraps it and ties it together, will it come to life. The same is true for some of the favorites from the brand, like its signature jersey shirt dresses and washed cotton vests. Certainly Complex Geometries will find themselves pioneering the path of versatility faster than you can say ”all I need are my Calvins.”
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the d-list
Lewis: Postmodernist Alison Lewis is the fashion world’s Justin Timberlake. (Even if he makes you want to hurl, you’ll get the point.) She had a good thing going, but decided to fly the coop in search of her own individual voice. If you are shaking your head in puzzlement, you’ve clearly been living under a rock while the cult phenomenon that is Mooka Kinney slowly seeped its way into our consciousness. Starting with nothing more than a simple Myspace greeting, they have continued to entrance us with their enviable concoctions that look as if they were unearthed from your grandma’s closet—a really flirtatious and stylish grandma who embraces her inner child. So it’s only natural that when Alison decided to take flight, a very devoted fan base was waiting with bated breath to see what was in store. And she didn’t disappoint. Now simply called Lewis, Alison’s new line wraps you in that same childlike fantasy, only this time the materials are a little shinier and the silhouette a bit more graduated. Imagine fine china replacing your ratty plastic tea set. Alison would like us all to surrender to the movement that is modern vintage, which embraces the ideals of the past and brings them to life in the present. Wearing a Lewis piece ensures you are envied and adored, leaving female co-workers wishing they were as delightful as you seem and guys hoping they will catch a whiff of your fragrance. Each blissful piece from the Spring 2009 collection, which was her awaited debut, presented a full serving of irreplaceability. Even I, who consider myself the poster child for ”no way! I can’t pull that off,” was enthusiastic about the incredible high-waisted black shorts that
photography : kristin brynn costello styling: jessica goldfond hair & makeup: jenni klein model: jessica@muse
instantly reminded me of ‘50s icon, Bridgette Bardot, rolling around on a sandy beach. “I really wanted to pay tribute to this idea of a romantic wardrobe that isn’t defined by what is in fashion, but by flattering silhouettes that women can keep in their closets for years to come,” says Lewis. “I am still very inspired by vintage clothing but I wanted to expand my designs by adding a modern touch to the new line and using elegant fabrics, such as washed and patterned silks.” For her spring collection, Lewis was inspired by vintage photographs taken by Man Ray, as well as images of carefree girls in their underwear enjoying their youth. Her whimsical silk prints, a step up from the Mooka Kinney cotton glory days, had me yearning for warmer weather. One glimpse of the collection’s look book and you’ll find yourself eager to create your own pin-up calendar (rated PG, of course). The pink pleated shift dress with white clover print and black lapel buttons is drool-worthy, while the black jumper dress with a box-pleated waist is utter perfection. As Alison remarks, “I read a lot about Paris and New York in the 1920s, ‘30s and ‘40s during the time when women really got out of constrictive clothing and started dressing in more loose-fitting, wearable clothes. I was also really amazed by the Louise Bourgeois exhibit at the Guggenheim Museum. This probably ties into the fact that this is my first collection on my own, so I felt more connected to every aspect of the design. “ No matter the inspiration or the era from which her ideas are conceived, I will definitely consider myself a LEWIS girl this year.
Mociun: Impressionist
the d-list
It doesn’t get more original than the cult phenomenon that is Mociun. Caitlin Mociun, the woman behind the brand, has a fierce love affair with prints. After graduating with a degree in textiles from Rhode Island School of Design, she decided fabric would be her canvas in which to work with. How Mociun effortlessly translates her multiple sources of inspiration is refreshing, always keeping us on our toes for what’s next. Recurring themes that she is continually drawn to are Bauhaus and Native American art. It’s easy to succumb to the clothes’ down to earth sensibility that is rooted in Caitlin’s belief to be not only a responsible designer, but a responsible consumer, too. The Spring 2009 collection, titled The Vast Expanse, features relaxed blouses and tulip dresses printed in soft earthy shades of blush and blue. Covetable items include a graphic black and white bathing suit and the dropped crotch desert pants. As each new season approaches, print lovers and former print phobics alike eagerly await to see what Mociun has up their whimsically printed sleeves.
photo courtesy of Mociun
Ryan Wilde Nouveau Catalyst photography: kristen brynn costello styling: jessica goldfond hair & makeup: jenni klein model: yulia@muse
Beloved by shopaholics everywhere, accessories always hold a special place in our hearts season after season. Often they are the items you have to see to believe. After lusting over them in Vogue or perusing a blogger’s description, nothing beats an up close and personal preview of that hand-crafted Miu Miu bag or a Louvre-worthy Balenciaga shoe. Well, this couldn’t be less true for the fanciful, gravity-defying hats by Ryan Wilde, America’s own Phillip Treacy. Ryan has launched herself on a world-takeover track. While touring Ireland with her horse race painter father, its modishly dressed wives captivated her with their Ascot style hats. From there, she skipped over to London, where Isabella Blow herself mentored her in the ways of millinery art. After fine tuning her skills at FIT upon her return to the states, she launched her masterful hat line in 2006, and she’s transfixed us ever since.
the d-list
Spring & Clifton: Pop Artist
photography : kristin brynn costello styling: letitia burrell hair: christophe kontos makeup: jenni klein model: nykhor@red
Who would ever think that an ‘80s baby would be as popular now as Patricia Field was to her generation? And not just because gold lamé cocktail dresses and latex leggings happen to be the look de rigueur right now, but because Michelle Zacks of Spring & Clifton knows that knitwear can tell a story like no other. Michelle, a genuine homegrown talent, has had her fair share of fashion industry experience. She had enough guts to head downtown one day and open a retail workspace on New York City’s Clinton Street. There, she sold tastefully edited vintage pieces, and worked day in, day out on designs that would go from sewing machine to store shelves in the same day, giving her the ability to respond to feedback and help mold what is now one of the most covetable knitwear brands. So much so, even Urban Outfitters had to snatch her up for a collaborative capsule collection called S Loves C. Spring & Clifton has an amazing originality that is quite impressive for an indie designer. You won’t have déjà vu anytime soon (as was the unfortunate case with Kenley’s Alexander McQueen reincarnation on Project Runway). The irresistibly soft hooded tunic and oversized caftan or cardigan feature just the right amount of grommet detailing to let your inner badass shine through, while the lace-up back tunic in periwinkle grey molds to your body for a perfect fit as if Madonna’s stylist herself hand picked it for you. The bad girls gone good aren’t left out either. Michelle has been sure to include perfectly dainty pieces in colors so bright you’ll be seeing Andy Warhol in your dreams. And saving the best for last, the totally unexpected accessories like the grommet leggings and grommet fringe scarf are to die for!
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the d-list
Julianna Bass: Renaissance Woman
photography: eddie rodriguez styling: letitia burrell model: cara mia hair & makeup: maraz
I know magazine editors should show no favoritism, but if Dujour were looking for a mascot, I hope Julianna Bass would oblige. Her collections, without a drop in progression or quality since day one, prove that when one is in need of decadent, fashion-forward garments, Zac Posen and Oscar de la Renta aren’t the only names to keep in mind. Julianna understands quality. Julianna understands drama. So of course her collections are at the forefront of understated luxury for the more youthful market. “Evening wear is about attitude,” Julianna explains. “A humble nature with a raw edge inspires me every time.” We have been conditioned into thinking that ”effortless chic” was only a myth. It was almost laughable that one could just be able to throw on a dress and look like a million dollars. But with Julianna’s background in costume design and her ability to create clothing that is really quite show-stopping, the only one laughing now is the woman wearing her dresses. For spring, Julianna was definitely channeling the ladies who lunch, with more parts flirty than pretentious. She dug deep into her Pandora’s box of Crayola colors, toying with delightful canary yellows, luminescent aquas, and the perfect shade of bubblegum mauve that even Chanel lip colors haven’t mastered yet. There was an obvious attempt to reinvent Christian Dior’s New Look, with incredible cinched waists and ballooning hip proportions, as well as Julianna’s own conceptualizations for this season. Julianna says of her Spring collection’s ideal wearer, “This particular character is portrayed with a strong silhouette, capable of conquering her duties outside of the home. It is almost as if this woman is breaking free from what is expected of her by the bold statements of her wardrobe. A bit of Victorian flair is added to create a daring expression that combines the two eras with grace and elegance.”
Erdem Garden of Roses
words by: Ana Furney
Designer Erdem Moralioglu is far from a new name in the fashion world. Having already garnered UK design’s highest honor, the British Fashion Council award, and acting as the creative director and designer of a women’s wear line, Erdem is well on his way to conquering the rest of the world’s runways, catwalks and palatial closets. Having studied at the Royal College of Art and then beginning his career as a member of the Diane Von Furstenberg design team, Moralioglu is by no means a stranger to punchy colors, bold prints and inventive patterns. Following glowing reviews of his Spring/Summer 2009 show, the designer noted that his greatest challenge is to produce inspirational ideas in a way that doesn’t alienate him from the designs that first made him the focus of our affection. Backstage at his runway show, Moralioglu remarked that the greatest catalyst for his romantic SS09 collection was “images of ‘70s theater productions of A Midsummer Night’s Dream, and Eton boys wearing flowers in their boaters.” Bows and frills are always challenging details to master with taste and soft subtlety, but Erdem makes feminine extras not only a “do” but a “must do.” A runway collection comprised of frothy lace layers, cascading chiffon and pooling tiers of mint green floral embroideries revealed the designer’s talent for mixing colors and patterns, as well as his sense of humor in his attention to detail, like shots of colors atop classically pleated skate skirts and delicate lace. There’s truly no denying that Erdem’s line of ladylike separates was inspired by a long-ago and faraway time of romance and love of craftsmanship. It certainly doesn’t take much to imagine Natalie Vodianova asleep in a grassy meadow surrounded by fauna and flora, draped in tulle and chartreuse silk. Erdem continues to act as a testament to how great design is inspired and where we can expect it to evolve
Vena Cava Egypt or Bust To the design world’s indie insiders, Vena Cava has always been a sound choice for the casual Sunday stroll or rockin’ evening out. But only recently did the design duo responsible for the line gain more mainstream attention after becoming finalists in 2008 for the CFDA/ Vogue Fashion Fund. Tackling challenging prints, oddly perfect draping and eccentric stylings that make for a perfect pairing of hard details and soft fabrics, Vena Cava continues to be a line inspired by art, design and an appreciation for acutely aware aesthetics. The ladies’ launch for their SS09 collection was absolutely no exception, being an almost kitschy nod to King Tut. The showcase revealed high waists and body conscious trousers, as well as edgier contemporary extras such as exposed zippers, gun-metal rivets and (dare we say) hieroglyphic prints. And while most revivals from the ‘70s seem dated and forced, Vena Cava’s confluence of edgy cuts with bold Egyptian details made for a flawless collection.Our predictions for Spring favorites in 2009 when the line hits department store floors? Their two-toned white maxi skirt, their mid-length fish-tailing high waisted leather skirt, and their outrageously inventive legging selection. From makeup to shoes, the show’s entire look was a well-imagined preview of the design team’s ever-evolving content. While it’s always a challenge to predict what’s to come, I imagine that every item in Vena Cava’s collections will continue to provide maximum glamor and femininity to a woman who demands minimal prep time for a dazzling end result.
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curated by: Letitia Burrell
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books we D
1. Vintage Tattoos: The Book of Old-School Skin Art (Paperback) by Carol Clerk Publisher: Universe. Fancy script lettering, Aztec designs and marks of fertility are bold fashion statements that have been tattooed into mainstream culture. Vintage Tattoos: The Book of Old-School Skin Art profiles influential tattoo artists and their distinctive designs: Sailor Jerry Collins, Don Ed Hardy, Mike “Rollo Banks” Malone, Bert Grimm, Japan’s Horiyoshi III, and Shanghai’s Pinky Yun. 2. An Illustrated Life: Drawing Inspiration from the Private Sketchbooks of Artists, Illustrators and Designers by Danny Gregory (Author) Publisher: How. Danny Gregory, executive creative director of ad agency McGarry Bowen, presents a collection of illustrated journals from 50 different artists. Designers and artists working in all mediums will find delight in learning how artists approach the creative world of design. 3. Cool Couture: Construction Secrets for Runway Style (Singer Studio). by Kenneth D King (Author) Publisher: Creative Publishing international; illustrated edition. Bring out the envy of your style as fashion designer Kenneth King provides step-by-step instruction in the basic, reliable techniques of classical couture, ideal for the fun, elegant, timely and glamorous fashionista. Use these tricks of the trade as an essential reference book for learning fancy techniques and fashion-forward flare. 4. SuicideGirls: Beauty Redefined by Missy Suicide Publisher: Ammo Books. They dominated the world and now they are ready to take
over the print world. The sorority of suicide girls—women who choose not to fit into the cookie-cutter mold of traditional beauty—have published pages of alternative, pierced and tattooed ladies from around the globe. For all the men and women who believed the gothic girl with the black eyeliner and lip ring was the sexiest girl in high school, this one’s for you! 5. Valentina: American Couture and the Cult of Celebrity by Kohle Yohannan (Author), Harold Koda (Foreword) Publisher: Rizzoli. Known for show-stopping evening gowns, exotic personality and legendary sense of style, Valentina ostentatiously designed for a purpose. Enjoy her most prized possessions through photographs, never-before-seen personal ephemera, sketches, and original platinum prints from photographers Cecil Beaton, Horst P. Horst, and George Hoyningen-Huene. 6. Atlas of Fashion Designers by Laura EceizaPublisher: Rockport Publishers. Today’s fashion world wouldn’t exist without designers’ vision for architecture, art, haute couture and technology. The Atlas of Fashion Designers gives a comprehensive look at 150 top contemporary fashion designers from around the world. Only examining the designers work within the past five years, Laura Eceiza gives readers snippets of present style with advances into fashion for tomorrow. 7. The Stephen Sprouse Book by Roger Padilha Publisher: Rizzoli. Gain excess to the life of Stephen Sprouse with the artfully inspired The Stephen Sprouse Book. Available in four dif-
ferent covers, the book displays never-beforepublished images and examines Sprouse’s notions of style and downtown edge. Including a forward by novelist Tama Janowitz, one of Sprouse’s closest friends, The Stephen Sprouse Book is supremely researched and illustrated. 8. Warman’s Buttons Field Guide (Warman’s Field Guides) by Jill Gorski Publisher: Krause Publications. Stay on top of timeless, classic buttons with Warman’s Buttons Field Guide as you learn on-the-spot identification and appraisals. Take this resource with you and prove others your button knowledge is way beyond the basics. 9. FutureFashion White Papers by Diane Von Furstenberg (Foreword), Earth Pledge (Editor), Leslie Hoffman (Introduction) Publisher: Earth Pledge Foundation. With the green movement mainstream, do you ever wonder how a transition to sustainability can be achieved? Get expert knowledge on the future of the green fashion industry from scientists, retailers, farmers, dyers, models and others in the industry, including Diane von Furstenberg, Julie Gilhart, and Shalom Harlow. 10. Ginger Rogers Paper Dolls by Marilyn Henry Publisher: Paper Studio Press. Find joy in merging your love for the silver screen, with dressing paper dolls in Ginger Rogers Paper Dolls book. Mix and match two dolls with over 40 costumes representing Ginger’s films such as Top Hat, Swing Time, Carefree, Fifth Ave Girl, Kitty Foyle, Flying Down To Rio, Lady In The Dark, and Follow The Fleet.
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Angeline Melin D Now why is it I have never heard of you before? Well, everything has a beginning … and you finally found me! D Where are you from and where have you traveled for your art? I’m Parisian. I think you can feel that through my drawings: the Parisian shoppaholic’s lifestyle! I’ve traveled through Europe, Canada and West Coast USA, and really had a crush on Barcelona and the U.S., which are sunny and welcoming places. But that wasn’t travel for my work. Next May, I’m going to New York for the first time. I’m sure that it will be a very good experience and that I’ll find lots of inspiration on every street’ corner. Hang onto your seatbelts, girls, because I’ll be documenting my experiences on my website! D How did art first start for you? Fashion and art were obvious career choices. I didn’t know exactly which one would be first, but after a year in fashion, I decided to dedicate myself to illustration. I have heard you do a lot of collaborations, like with Amelie boutiques and others. D How do these come about? Everything began when an advertising agency contacted me for one of their customer’s projects. Thanks to that, it clicked: I wanted to make drawings in a professional way. Then, other projects came one by one. I illustrated a book called Les Tortures de la Mode, written by Caroline de Surany (Gawsewitch edition, France); collaborated with an Italian ready-to-wear brand of tees; and worked with a lot of websites: www.doitinparis.com ( opening March 23), www.lavendeusedimages.fr, www.amelieboutique.com, and so forth. I also made a postcard-sized advertisement for Beefeater gin. D What are you experimenting with lately? I’m old school: I have a graphic tablet, but use it only to correct some details or colors in Photoshop when the work is finished. I make every drawing using paper and a lead pencil. Then I use pentone pencils for colors, and sometimes finish in Photoshop. If I changed something in that process, it would create a different result. So this is my style. D Why do you choose fashion as a subject for your artwork? I’m a stylist, and I really like to draw. When I worked in fashion design, I missed drawing a lot, and now that I’m an illustrator, I miss fashion. That’s why I mix the two together: fashion illustrations! Moreover, all my customers have a link to or are working in fashion, instead of interior design. So I found a good compromise between the two. Most importantly, I’m free in my choices! D Do your illustrations just pour from you or do you need constant inspiration? Like everybody else, I have periods with, and those without, inspiration. I can have no inspiration some days, and on others I can produce lots of drawings without leaving home. D Where do you find subject matter for your work? Colors, feelings, tendencies, sentences, people … everything can inspire me! Photography too : when I see photographs by Tim Walker, Martin Parr, Patrick Demarchelier for Vogue and so on—all photographers with strong personalities—I want to retranscribe the atmosphere through a drawing. I also like to draw personalities of the past like Marie Antoinette, Joséphine Baker, Calamity Jane... D What is the life of an artist like? Has anything surprised you about how your life has taken shape? An artist’s life is so exciting! I couldn’t imagine a better way to live. I have time for exhibitions, movies, inspiration, shopping, observing new trends and meeting other artists. I can manage my time as I want, it’s so great—and moreover in Paris, this beautiful city! But there are also disadvantages. It’s important to make a plan for the week, and manage project deadlines, meetings, etc. It’s not a holiday! I never imagined I could have this life, and I don’t know how long it will last, but I like it! D How would you describe your sense of style? It’s difficult to describe my drawing style. I just try to reproduce what I feel, what I like, with a touch of humor and mode. I love to share my ideas with my website’s readers; I appreciate it when I receive e-mails from them saying they like my work and share my feelings. There’s no better thing I can receive from them. D And where will I find you a year from now? At this moment, I don’t know where I’ll be next. I live through my feelings.… We can try planning a meeting next year on the same date. D Any last words? I love shoes!!! [Laughs], D We do too Angeline, we do too!
’s ube r e n i l e g n o re of A al edition , m h t i w e it fall in lov bscribe to our dig cribe su ubs cute art! jourmag.com/s go to du
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words by: Jasmin Sun
Amelie+Angeline I
’ve never been able to fit all the clothing I own into one closet. There was always a necessary protocol that needed to be followed. I couldn’t just shove everything into one place and call it a day; some pieces had to be hung, others stored in wardrobe bags and still others carefully folded and tucked into drawers. It’s hard not to believe me when I tell you that I’ve never been able to comfortably move around my personal living space after two weeks of habitation. The Sweater I Had Been too lazy to fold last night would turn into the pile of clothes I had to look through to create proper outfits last month. My closet would inevitably spill into my living room, turning the entire apartment into a bona fide bombsite. Poor closet space to wardrobe size ratio is no problem for Amélie. This illustrated lady (who looks like a cross between Lou Doillon and Alexa Chung, no less) not only owns her own boutique, but also personally handpicks the clothes and wears them herself. As expected, she has some killer threads in her closet/store. She’d also probably be the one to call when you’re itching to go to a VIP party. Okay, so Amélie may be a fictional character, but the creative minds behind her are very real. She was conceived through the collaborative efforts of (actual) boutique owner Niina Poskiparta, and Parisbased illustrator Angéline Mélin. Poskiparta wanted a face to launch her business when she ran across Angéline’s work. After a few sketches, the template for Amélie was born. Amélie’s outfits change constantly, and all the items can be found on the store’s online site. The London-based online boutique establishes its vibe through the designers it chooses to carry. The Amélie persona is, in fact, the character herself: an undeniably chic young woman whose calm weekends spent curled up with fashion blogs, magazines, and cups of tea are only offset by her visits to hip downtown bars with friends. In a way, it’s an effortless look; uniquely timeless in its ability to combine classic appeal with the newest trends, it still manages to satisfy even the most intense fashion scrutiny. Most of Niina’s choices are muted and neutral, made to easily slip into the majority of wardrobes. Then again there are the accent pieces, those pops of color or touches of special detail that change a simple cropped jacket into something you’d want to wear again and again (my eye is fixed firmly on the Heimstone Beaded Franklin Jacket (£ 325) as I write this). And the shoes. They are definitely deserving of a Christian Siriano-style “Fieerce.” Lesser-carried designers Tristan Blair and LD Tuttle also make a rare online appearance at Amélie. From studs to fur, the shoes here have me scrambling to hide my credit card for fear of inducing personal bankruptcy. I have decided that the Tristan Blair Pop Buckle Flats (£ 220) are completely versatile yet amazing and that acquisition of said shoes is an absolute necessity. As you click to view each category of clothing, you are greeted by the earnest drawings of Angéline Mélin. I feel like I’m looking through a friend’s scrapbook rather than a clothing boutique, and for that, I give Niina props. Aside from the carefully edited collection of designer wares, the charming presentation at Amélie provides a welcome relief from the onslaught of models and brand names you see on most other sites. As I finish exploring the site, I can’t help but wonder if I could open a boutique to sell my own personal amassment of clothing. It would sure make the space around my bed more conducive to walking. But first, I’d have to dig everything out from the clothing mountain that has made my bedside chair its permanent home.
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DHow is it I have never heard of you before? I heard your name has an interesting meaning… You probably don’t have telepathic abilities, do you? Unless you do, I was too busy dealing with other priorities for you to hear about me. But now I guess it’s high time to hear my name a bit more often. As for my nom de guerre, it is a combination of Art and Aksiniya (a Russian variation of a Greek name meaning “the stranger”). It reveals my nature completely… DIn which country did the baby stork first drop you? And do you now travel around the world to get inspiration for your work? I’m from the Soviet Union (which collapsed right after my birth), but I prefer to consider myself as cosmopolitan, taking features I like from every culture I meet. I love traveling, ‘cause it’s the only way for me to get impressions. Impressions are my best friends, they surpass even diamonds! D Are you one of those artists that studied finance or some other kind of mundane labor and ended up being one of the worlds hidden prodigies? Thank you, you flatter me so much by mentioning the word “prodigy.” I studied Russian literature and journalism, and worked for six years writing about social tensity, injustice and total miseducation. I did it well, but it was a kind of selfdeception. The only thing I’ve always loved from my earliest steps (literally) was painting. It was akin to breathing. Actually, there was a famous Russian artist in my family, so it’s no wonder. D How did you go from journalism to art? There is really less difference between them than you could imagine. Their main similarity is their power to influence society. Both are very responsible professions, but art is like a parable, while journalism is a direct impact. One day I decided to speak the language I spoke best … that’s it. DI’ve read that you believe in fashion as a form of art. How so? Well, I am a bit afraid of the modern tendency to hide one’s shallowness in the shell of luxury garments. From being a form of self-expression and creativity, fashion somehow moved to being about dictates and cult. But it is more fitting to see pieces of clothing as pieces of art, and moreover, they really deserve it. One should treat them as something more important than the next milestone on one’s way to a higher status. This mode de vivre makes us
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free from consumerism, which has become such a problem. D And like us at Dujour, you don’t care much for trends but rather encourage individuality. How would you describe your sense of style? I’m sick of people who mistakenly think themselves more charming than they really are only because they wear everything en vogue. So I do it vice versa, in general. That doesn’t mean I put on trash bags of course, but I love unique and unobvious clothes which stress my body shape. Our dress should make people fancy us but not score us up as fashionistas. The only thing that makes me lose my will is jewelry. I love seeing my fingers studded with unusual rings. D You yourself are quite beautiful and must inspire tons of people. What are your inspirations lately? Thank you, but I’ve always known that beauty is in the eye of the beholder. I’ve been modeling for years and it’s made me think skeptically about exterior beauty. More inspiring than beauty is a strong personality. I find my own inspiration in people most of all: strangers I’ve seen for awhile, my talented old friends, relatives, characters from literature and history. Frankly speaking, I’m ready to be inspired by anything (laughs). D Last fall you approached a young London fashion designer to collaborate on illustrations of his collection. Is that something you like to do often instead of just relying on known designers such as Chanel or Nathan Jenden? I am pretty spontaneous in everything! I genuinely appreciate emotions. So if I find something that touches me in the raw, I never set it aside. His collection made me itch to illustrate it. I love this feeling and I’m really happy my aestheticism corresponds with his. I’m just fond of beautiful objects, no matter who creates them D Why Did you start your blog? I wanted to share my creations with people who could be interested in my tons of funny pictures. Besides, it is a very convenient way to find more inspiring guys which bring more freshness into my life. DAre you trying to take over the world with your larger than life prints of Big Babes? C Congrats on that exhibit by the way! Was it your first? Thank you so much! My Big Babes exhibit attacked a couple of Asian galleries. Don’t worry, there were no dead bodies! Big Babes are sort of like Qin Shi
Huang’s terracotta army to me. They will protect my 50 kilos of flesh in any situation. DLet’s talk about the unbelievably exquisite John Galliano look book you illustrated. Why are you not being paid millions by these brands! I would love to actually see a look book that had that much creativity…or an ad campaign with your work.Well, the way of a thousand miles begins with one little step. Maybe Galliano’s look book will be that first step. I am not that mercenary, you see. I only do what I do without planning world domination. And I am hard-working enough that, if one day they want me to paint ad campaigns, there will be room in my studio. Artaksiniya is an artist who paints fast! Keep it in mind. D Where does this curiosity and interest in fashion come from? I grew up among glossy mags . I was a child who knew all the models, designers and stylists appearing in fashion magazines` pages… But somehow it didn`t make me mad about birkins, blahniks and stuff, but fed me up with artistic part of fashion. It happens somtimes D Did I mention you are uber talented? Well you are. So where can I buy your pieces? I’m glad you like my pics. That’s the best compliment for an artist! I’ve recently launched my website artaksiniya.com, so you can rummage in the prints there and contact me via e-mail. D And where will I find you a year from now? Are you planning a traveling Big Babes exhibition tour? I think planning is a thankless job. Life shows; tomorrow never knows! I enjoy the moment and dream stealthily, so our next meeting will be unexpected but no doubt great. As for Big Babes, maybe I will add some puffy sculptures to my army. Maybe I’ll become a Big Babe myself. We’ll see… D Any last words? Oh Lord! This question stuns me. I’m going to speak at least for half a century.… But if you mean my wishes to the people who read this, I wish them all harmony. And don’t forget that our lives are full of amazing things that are not hiding far from us; we just have to open our eyes widely. Don’t be afraid of changes, and listen to your heart. Be risky, ‘cause risk is always rewarded. afraid of changes, listen to your heart, be risky, `cause it`s always rewarded. artaksiniya.blogspot.com
D Now why is it I have never heard of you before? I don’t know! I wish you had. I am pretty successful by my own standards, but I’m just emerging onto the scene when it comes to press. I have gotten many write-ups on the Internet, so most people who are familiar with my work really keep up with the design blogs. My work has also been featured in a few publications so far.D In which country did the baby stork first drop you? And where are you based now? Right here is the usa- in a little town called Scranton PA (has anyone seen the Office?) Then I moved to Florida and now I am just outside of Phila in Newark DE. I’m on a world tour.D How did art find you? When I was really young I decided I wanted to be an artist- and I haven’t changed any of my goals. I feel like I have been working hard at this since the 6th grade.D I have heard you are collaborating on a new tee line. How did this come about? My clients suggested a tee shirt line last year- the art is inspired by fashion and is a love of mine, so I did 3 tee shirts. They sold fast, one sold out entirely. So I decided this year I could learn from that and build from that experience. I am working on men’s and women’s tees. A small collection, but bigger than last time. They are being modeled by my favorite members of Lookbook (the fashion website lookbook.nu ) and the models are from all over the world: Spain, Ireland, Germany… It will be great to see how the collection looks when styled by my favorite fashion inspirations.D You have allot of great mediums you work with. What are you experimenting with lately?My last collection on canvas was just acrylic, my new line is all on custom canvases and is mostly acrylic with touches of oil in some of the paintings and some even have watercolor on the canvas. D Can you tell us more about the custom canvases you are working on? Will there be a show for these? There will! And I am so very excited about this. I can’t give you too many details just yet. But here is a hint: This summer, NYC & CA. More details soon on the website and art blog.D Do you believe in fashion as a form of art? Y-E-S. I love fashion so much that sometimes I wonder why it isn’t a career. Luckily I’m not a messy painter so I have always been a bit overdressed. I just adore fashion and I want to be a part of it in every way that I can. It turns up in almost all of the artwork, and even some of the titles. I have a daily art blog where I post things that inspire me- and it’s almost all fashion. D So congrats on your Vaute
Couture win! What is the competition about? Artists from anywhere in the world were able to submit flats and designs for a coat on vautecouture. com. Hundreds of artists entered and a group of judges narrowed down the entries to their favorites. I made the finals. Then there were 3 days of open voting when anyone could go online and vote for their favorite looks to be made into real winter wear. I received enough votes to place me in the top 3 and I won! My coat will be sold in boutiques nationwide next season.D Do your illustrations just pour from you or do you need constant inspiration?A little bit of both- I do need inspiration, but a feel constantly visually inspired. I read a lot of magazines and books just to see color. I also take 3 cameras with me everywhere I go. A bit excessive I know, but they are tucked away so no one knows!D Where do you find subject matter for your work? I was an illustration major, so it’s all in my head. The fashion and music industries inspire me and I have countless files and sketchbooks to go to after that spark.D What is the life of an artist like? Has anything surprised you about how your life has taken shape? It’s a rollercoaster ride. Unfortunately there is no class or book to guide you on the steps to being a successful artist. It’s really a tough career- but I’m so proud to be able to do what I love full time. You have to have people you support you around you all the time. D How would you describe your sense of style? I buy whatever I like so I’m not really sure how I’d describe that. I definitely lean more toward classic pieces, mixed with a bit of trend. I also love vintagelike everyone else. I try to shop alone so no one else can influence my purchases- if I like it, I buy it, for me. D Did I mention you are uber talented? Well you are. So where can I buy your pieces? Many places. You can see the work on the website: www.dallasshaw. com, you can purchase them at www.dallasshaw. etsy.com and if it’s not on etsy you just email me at dallasshawdesign@gmail.com. There are also prints at various stores around the web- all are linked to my website.D And where will I find you a year from now? Hopefully you can always find me doing exactly what I am doing today but on a larger scale. D Any last words? I hope everyone enjoys the work. Please feel free to email at anytime. Aside from the website, and etsy page there is also a daily art blog at http://dillydallas.blogspot.com
D Have you ever Googled yourself? You are quite the cult phenomenon. How are you such a hidden treasure while having a great following at the same time? In a casual way, several days ago I Googled myself for the first time, and I was astonished. To tell you the truth, I had no idea I was any kind of “cult phenomenon.” Are you really sure about that? D Did you study art? I studied fashion design at an art school. D I hear you do collaborations with designers. Tell us more about that. I’ve done some collaborations in the past. I’m working nowadays with Gemma Degara, whose summer collection is full of my patterns.D You are inspired by fashion in a way most people aren’t. Why fashion? Because it’s fun, it’s frivolous and it’s like still playing with dolls.D What is it like to be you for a day? At this time, with my three-monthold baby, my day is anything but glamorous. I miss my heels! D Where do you think you will take your art in the future?I really have no idea. I’m focused on the present
and on doing the best I can. I don’t like to make longterm plans.D Where can one buy your pieces? Are they limited edition? I don’t sell any pieces at the moment, though I hope to do so soon.D What has been your biggest accomplishment so far? In terms of my work, doing what I like has been my biggest accomplishment. Years ago I thought it wouldn’t be possible. Personally, my son has changed my life. He’s great.D Do you feel Spain is a place of emerging artists or do you have a dream city you would rather live in? I think that everywhere in the world can be a place for emerging artists. I love living in Barcelona, but if I could it would be nice to live for awhile in New York, London, Lisbon or La Habana. There are so many charming places in the world that it’s a difficult question to answer.D Where would you love to see your artwork? I’d love to see my work in a teenager’s folder, and in fact I’ve already seen it!
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?head to t r a e r o m e e s want to ribe tp c s b u s / m o c . g dujourma ith our w n io it d e l a it get your dig ry! e ll a g + e g a p 50
Frida come back to me
dress by The world of Fellicia; top by Guinea pig Galore; earrings available at H&M
photography: denise boomkens styling: inge de lange makeup: chantal model: Sylvia Reyn @ max models
dress by The world of Fellicia; top by Guinea pig Galore; earrings available at H&M
sweater by CCDK; belt available at H&M; skirt by The world of Fellicia; collar by Catta Donkersloot
dress by Lifu Hsiao; Top BY Edith & Ella; Necklace is vintage
dress by The world of Fellicia; top by Guinea pig Galore; earrings available at H&M
dress by Laura Dols; necklace and earrings by Bijou Brigitte
coat by Essentiel, top by Sanne Schrijver, jewelry from H&M
Top by Pepe Jeans; Jacket by Escada; Skirt by Essentiel
Fair Unfair It’s my party and I cry if i want to
photography: bianca toeps styling: inge de lange makeup: helma van moorsel model: fleur gggink
Jacket by L’altra moda; Skirt by Laura Dols
Top by Blue Blood; Dress by Essentiel; Tights by American Apparel; Shoes by Antoine Peters
Dress by Chilli Pepper; Top by Fornarina; Tights by American Apparel; Shoes by Antoine Peters
Dress by Laura Dols; Top by Fornarina; Shoes by Antoine Peters
Top by Barbara Bui; Dress by Zipper
p.s. you forgot your personal style
T
he soft breeze outside finds its way through your bay window, tickling the tips of your toes. Mother Nature has become your alarm clock, and you awake to the soft rays of sunlight melting the last bits of snow and ice from the sidewalks. It’s cool enough to bundle up lightly and just warm enough for the debut of your new pedicure and Balenciaga sample sale score. Buzz buzz goes your Crackberry; the boy toy wants to play. But what’s this? The girls are in dire need for a convo over cosmos tonight (could it be a breakup?). The dilemma of teasing the boy and leaving the gals envious calls for something soft to the touch and effortlessly chic. Well lucky for you, the classic crew neck has taken a dreamy turn. Splash some water on your face, girl, you have Phillip Lim waiting in your closet. His ethnically influenced embroidered cashmere sweater tunic, worn over jet black zipper leggings and a dose of Chanel No.5, will leave him speechless and your girlfriends admiring your fashion savoir faire. Ah, spring is here!
3.1 Phillip Lim MAIA PULLOVER, $557.00
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