Bite 2012 by Drink Magazine

Our cover photo was shot by Jason Greene, with the assistance of Aldrin Capulong, and features adorable local couple Jess and Calvin Cearley.

GO AHEAD, TAKE A BITE.

This year’s guide is arranged by cuisine, and those cuisines are:

Once again, welcome to our annual guide to restaurants in the Orlando area – almost 500 of them, from old favorites to new contenders, from high-ticket splurges to greasy spoons and everything in between. If you can’t find what you’re looking for here, browse orlandoweekly.com, where our database of restaurants can be searched by cuisine, location and price range. Below, find a guide to our price levels and other indispensable information, as well as a list of the people who made the whole thing possible.

African • American (New) • American (Traditional) • Barbecue • Burgers & Hot Dogs • Cajun/Creole • Caribbean • Chinese • Coffee & Tea • Cuban/Puerto Rican • Deli • Diner • Eastern European • Fondue • French • German • Greek • Indian • Irish • Italian/Pizza • Japanese/ Sushi • Korean • Latin American • Latin-Asian • Mexican • Middle Eastern • Pan-Asian • Pubs & Taprooms • Sandwiches, Salads & Soup • Seafood • Spanish • Steaks • Sweets • Thai • Turkish • Vegetarian • Vietnamese • Wine Bars

ORLANDO WEEKLY

GUIDE TO THE GUIDE

Publisher: Rick Schreiber Editor Erin Sullivan EDITORIAL: Jessica Bryce Young, food & drink editor; Dave Plotkin, art director; Katie Westfall, copy editor; Faiyaz Kara, restaurant reviewer; Justin Hacker, web administrator; Veronica Figueroa, Leanne Robinson, interns RETAIL ADVERTISING: Graham Jarrett, director Jon Bowers, Jonathan Risteen, Allie Della Sera, Shelly Vincent, Dan Winkler, account executives; Devon Dunkle, coordinator PRODUCTION: Denika Robbins, production manager; James Ball, graphic designer BUSINESS: Karen Waeiss, manager; Amanda Self, administrative assistant CIRCULATION: Pierre Rene, manager Copyright © 2012 Orlando Weekly Inc., all rights reserved. Orlando Weekly Inc. is a wholly owned subsidiary. Reproduction without permission is prohibited. Unsolicited manuscripts must be accompanied by an SASE. Free, one copy per reader. Orlando Weekly may be distributed only by its distributors. ORLANDO WEEKLY INC. (407) 377-0400, (407) 377-0415 classified, (407) 377-0420 fax • orlandoweekly.com

Orlando Weekly’s annual dining guide!

Listings are condensed from lengthier reviews previously published in Orlando Weekly. The blue ribbon symbol – – symbolizes a 2011 Best of Orlando winner. Restaurants listed in magenta are BITE advertisers. $ $ $ $ $10 or less $ $ $ $ $10-15 $ $ $ $ $15-25 $ $ $ $ $25 or more The price range generally reflects the average cost of one dinner entree. Bakeries, ice cream shops, etc. reflect relative cost for one person. Search hundreds of reviews at orlandoweekly.com/ dining.

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Catering and Hosting Available Daily HH and Lunch Specials Monthly Wine Tastings Over 150 Beers and Wines

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DEXTER’S Spacious, light and airy, with seating at the bar or on bar stools at elevated tables. Sandwiches and pastas are staples, but you’ll also find the citified clientele ordering wines both by the bottle and “on tap.” The Thornton Park location offers not just a great brunch scene, but a full breakfast menu on weekdays as well. 808 E. Washington St., 407-648-2777; 950 Market Promenade Ave., Lake Mary, 407-805-3090; 558 W. New England Ave., Winter Park, 407-629-1150; $$

The Table • page 13

EMERIL’S TCHOUP CHOP It’s the creation of celeb chef Emeril Lagasse, so of course it’s popular and crowded. Unfortunately, the menu has only small flashes of brilliance surrounded by passable but unimpressive fare, and the service is intrusively attentive without being competent. Go there to dazzle out-of-town visitors. 6300 Hollywood Way, in Royal Pacific Resort, 407-503-2467; $$$ ENZIAN THEATER Food and film: It works, even if there are a few interruptions while watching the movie. Order staples like buttered popcorn, soft pretzels or chocolatechip cookies, or get fancy with creative salads, sandwiches and pizzas. The al fresco Eden Bar is a good place to grab a cocktail before the show. 1300 S. Orlando Ave., Maitland, 407-629-0054; $$ FUNKY MONKEY WINE COMPANY The Monkey’s decor, like the menu, is a hybrid of Eastern touches and big-city panache; there’s nothing particularly funky in sight. The ample wine list should please the most cultured of oenophiles. 912 N. Mills Ave., 407-427-1447; 9101 International Drive, 407-418-9463; $$$

CALIFORNIA GRILL Diners atop Disney’s Contemporary Resort have both a panorama of the Magic Kingdom and a clear view of food-preparation stations, leaving no doubt about what takes place there: spice-and-herb magic and perfect presentation. Entrees are heavily influenced by what is fresh and seasonally available, so the menu changes weekly. Disney’s Contemporary Resort, 4600 N. World Drive, Lake Buena Vista, 407939-3463; $$$$

BOMA: FLAVORS OF AFRICA Tables loaded with spicy African dishes – flavored by unusual and delicious combinations of tamarind, cumin, cinnamon, hot chilies, cilantro and papaya – invite exploration at the overwhelming dinner and breakfast buffets in Disney’s colorful, Dark Continentthemed resort hotel. Disney’s Animal Kingdom Lodge, 2901 Osceola Parkway, 407-938-4722; $$

Photo by Aldrin Capulong

JIKO Pan-African splendor jumps out in this gorgeous restaurant overlooking acres of savannah filled with wild animals. The food is steeped in traditions from all over the continent, including a tasty slow-cooked Moroccan stew and superb flatbread with yogurt and onions baked in open “jiko” ovens. Disney’s Animal Kingdom Lodge, 2901 Osceola Parkway, 407-9393463; $$$ NILE ETHOPIAN RESTAURANT Orlando’s lone Ethiopian restaurant is a blessing for foodies with an appetite for the exotic. Utensils come in the form of pancake-like sourdough bread called injera, used to scoop intensely spiced dishes from a large communal platter. Be sure to sample traditional honey wine as well as Ethiopian coffee, brewed in a clay pot. 7040 International Drive, 407354-0026; $$ SANAA Disney’s East African entry at Animal Kingdom Lodge puts Indian flavors on the plates, but it’s exotic-lite, nothing too spicy or challenging. Ordering anything from the tandoor oven – moist chicken, crispy breads – is a wise decision. For dessert, try a pot of French-pressed Kenya coffee and float-offyour-spoon-light chai cream mousse. Disney’s Animal Kingdom, 2901 Osceola Parkway, Lake Buena Vista, 407-939-3463; $$$

ARTIST POINT Disney does it up big, from the size of the plate to the size of the portions to the size of the bill – which, in this case, is justified. Innovative, Northwesternthemed menu offers exotic foods such as sautéed elk sausage. The service and setting are spectacular. Disney’s Wilderness Lodge, 901 W. Timberline Drive, Lake Buena Vista, 407-939-3463; $$$$ BAR LOUIE Bar Louie’s fare doesn’t raise the bar, but if you’re looking for tasty food to soak up some booze, there are a host of sponge-worthy items. Small plates, sandwiches, salads, pizzas and burgers complement a slew of creative signature cocktails, wine and beer. Happy hour, from 4-7 p.m., packs ’em in with halfprice appetizers and discounted libations. 7335 Sand Lake Road, 407-608-5190; $$ THE BOHEME Opulent surroundings designed as an interpretation of Europe’s Bohemian grandeur, with a creative menu featuring Angus beef in several incarnations, seafood and some wonderfully executed entrees. The pricey menu changes with the season. 325 S. Orange Ave., 407-313-9000; $$$$ CAFÉ TU TU TANGO Artists work while you eat in what’s essentially a mini-gallery, where the mood is festive, even outrageous, and the service is always impressive. Entree portions are intentionally small; diners are encouraged to order several and swap around the table, tapas-style. 8625 International Drive, 407248-2222; $$$

CHEF’S TABLE AT THE EDGEWATER An intimate setting, superbly executed dishes and the opportunity to banter with the chef make this Winter Garden prix fixe a must-stop on the local foodie trail. Foie gras creme brulee, wild mushroomand-Gruyere torte and sesame-crusted tuna highlight the menu. Berries saute and chocolate souffle will leave you more than sated. 99 W. Plant St., Winter Garden, 407-230-4837; $$$$ CITRUS Slick and boisterous Orange Avenue sup-spot offers expertly prepared dishes like lobster fritters spiked with jalapeno and red snapper with lobster risotto cake, proof positive of the kitchen’s competency. The din can be deafening, but the joint’s got that asphaltjungle verve that trendsters dig. 821 N. Orange Ave., 407-373-9779; $$$ CRAVE Slick and modern with Asian leanings. The standout sushi is what separates this upscale chain from others in the area. Steaks, seafood, soups, salads and pizza are neither exceptional nor lamentable, but coconut cake is worth ordering again and again. A decent wine list has some indecent markups. 4158 Conroy Road, 407-345-8788; $$$ CRESS RESTAURANT Mathematician-turned-chef Hari Pulapaka has the formula for success: fusing traditional and multicultural approaches with organic ingredients. Dishes are beautifully executed; the signature salad offers a representative sampling from their garden. Worth the drive. 103 W. Indiana Ave., DeLand, 386734-3740; $$$ DAVID’S CLUB BAR & GRILL This gastropub located within the Hilton Orlando takes its beers (and handcrafted cocktails) seriously. Just as serious is the menu of inventive bar food, from Korean fried chicken to truffled mac & cheeese to a fried-green-tomato BLT. Hilton Orlando, 6001 Destination Parkway, 407-313-8581; $$$

GENUINE BISTRO Well-executed dishes and a down-to-earth vibe make this DeBary bistro a genuine draw. Superb starters include killer fried calamari and steak-and-tomato flatbread; mains, like chicken frangelica and broiled sea bass, are wonderfully comforting. Closed Mondays. 2 S. Charles Richard Beall Blvd., DeBary, 386-320-0217; $$ THE GOBLIN MARKET Tucked in a downtown alleyway, this casual gourmet outlet is set up for dining inside and out, as well as takeout. Try the flavorful crab bisque served with a small crystal pitcher of sherry or the crab cakes served with a tart cucumber-onion relish. 330 Dora Drawdy Way, Mount Dora, 352-735-0059; $$$ HUE Make the scene in Thornton Park Central, where the black-clad and hungry gather. Fortunately, the lure of good food can appeal to anyone, and Hue is serving up fabulous seafood, steaks and poultry with a soupçon of Asian flair. 629 E. Central Blvd., 407-849-1800; $$$ K RESTAURANT Housed in a cozy old bungalow, chef Kevin Fonzo’s dining room is a great place to be and his kitchen continues to shine. Produce grown right out the back door tastes extra-fresh. Grilled beef hearts and the K-stack salad are superbly balanced starters; don’t miss grouper cheeks when they’re on the menu. 1710 Edgewater Drive, 407-649-9770; $$$ THE KITCHEN Tucked into the chic Hard Rock Hotel, the Kitchen is designed to look and feel like you’re chowing down in the mansion of a rock star. There’s something for everyone, with kid-friendly amenities and a menu of mostly done-right comfort food. Hard Rock Hotel, 5800 Universal Blvd., 407-503-2430; $$$ LA COQUINA Sunday brunch at La Coquina has been a tradition for 20 years strong. From the moment you climb down the Vegas-looking stairs and walk through an ornate wrought-iron tunnel to enter a dining area that overlooks an idyllic pond, you know you’re in for something special. 1 Grand Cypress Blvd. Hyatt Regency Grand, 407-239-1234; $$$ LUMA ON PARK Foodies are hot for the innovative fare at this Park Avenue star. The atmosphere is lively, there’s a great wine selection and small plates encourage sharing. Or go for one of the fabulous entrees, such as duck with butternut squash and lemon confit. 290 S. Park Ave., Winter Park, 407-599-4111; $$$

Dylan’s Deli & Bistro • page 27

MAXINE’S ON SHINE Neighborhood jewel offers an eclectic pan-Mediterranean menu, with Indian, Latin and Asian influences on the horizon. Curry-crusted fish is deftly executed, as is chef Bret Ashman’s intriguing take on gnocchi alla Sorrentina. The wine list is ample and studied. Sunday brunch offered from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. 337 N. Shine Ave., 407-674-6841; $$ NAPA AT THE PEABODY ORLANDO California wine-country cooking gets the local treatment inside the signature dining room of the handsome new Peabody. A daily-changing “taste of the valley” starter offers a worthy intro to NoCal cuisine, but to pass on the Meyer Ranch filet is to deny oneself a singular gastronomic pleasure. Portions are controlled enough to enjoy desserts without second thoughts. Peabody Orlando, 9801 International Drive, 407-345-4570; $$$$ NICO GLOBOS EUROPEAN EATERY Lake Mary’s dining scene gets a boost from this quaint restaurant with impressive ambience and food to match. Menus change nightly, and you won’t find this sort of seasonal focus or devotion to marketfresh ingredients in many other area establishments. When they’re available, don’t miss the mushroom and Gruyère tart or the caramel apple crumble, made in-house. 124 N. Fourth St., Lake Mary, 407-8785804; $$$$ OLV CAFÉ Equal parts café, wine bar and tapas joint, this inviting spot is a gathering ground for SoDo’s urban patronage. Petite beef tenders and tuna ceviche are satisfying, while we found the popular duck confit flatbread too sweet. For dessert, assorted mini indulgences are in keeping with the small-plate theme. 25 W. Crystal Lake St., 407-722-5060; $$ PARK PLAZA GARDENS This is the place to go for ambitious dishes served in a classy atmosphere. Hang out on the sidewalk and check out the beautiful people, sidle up to the intimate bar or go all-out at the “patio” restaurant in the back. 319 S. Park Ave., Winter Park, 407-6452475; $$$$

Photo by Jason Greene

PRICKLY PEAR True Southwestern dining comes to Orlando with the Prickly Pear, which is poised to revive the South Eola dining scene. Dishes like seafood chili, elk chop calabacitas and smoked duck quesadillas will draw gourmets back to the Sanctuary, but only a steadfast adherence to quality will keep them coming back. Open daily. Valet parking available. 100 S. Eola Drive, 407-781-2539; $$$ PRIMO Celebrity chef Melissa Kelly brings her organic, locavore philosophy down from Maine and opens Primo in the enormous JW Marriott Orlando. From free-range lamb to homemade sausage, care is taken – and local provenance is listed – with every ingredient, and it pays off on the plate. Prices are in the very high range, but for a special meal Primo beats almost any spot in town. 4040 Central Florida Parkway, 407-393-4444; $$$$

THE RAVENOUS PIG Frills are as sophisticated as the fare at this Winter Park gastropub. Nantucket Bay scallops in balsamic brown butter and grilled quail with made-in-house sausage underscore talent in the kitchen, as do mains like wonderfully tender porcini-marinated flatiron steak and olive-crusted loin of lamb. Chocoholics will rave over thick chocolate-chili pots de creme. 1234 N. Orange Ave., Winter Park, 407-628-2333; $$$ ROY’S RESTAURANT Not-so-fancy upscale chain creates a curious fusion of Pacific Rim cuisines, with an emphasis on Hawaiian ingredients, like shutome swordfish basted in a Thai curry sauce. The variety of selections extends to both the hit-and-miss menu and the endless wine list. 7760 W. Sand Lake Road, 407-352-4844; $$$ THE RUSTY SPOON Self-described “gastropub” brings a locavore credo to the downtown core along with an urbanfarmhouse vibe. The rustic menu focuses on locally farmed and raised ingredients, but not obsessively so. Best: tapenade-stuffed eggs, coffee-rubbed culotte steak and grown-up s’mores. There’s a small, but decent, selection of craft beers, signature drinks and wines as well. Live music on weekends. Open daily. 55 W. Church St., 407-401-8811; $$ SEASONS 52 The concept at this Darden “test kitchen” is fresh seasonal food. The kitchen delivers satisfying and occasionally unusual combinations of regional and global ingredients, and even when they fall short the food is enjoyable. 7700 Sand Lake Road, 407-3545212; 463 E. Altamonte Drive, Altamonte Springs, 407-767-1252; $$$ SPOOKY’S BLACK CAT CAFÉ Quirky café anchors the east end of the Milk District. A purposefully eclectic decor mirrors a purposefully eclectic menu of Indian- and Southern-inspired fare: pulled pork on waffles, minty grape leaves, “umami naan.” If the service won’t prolong your stay, the homemade pies and cakes surely will. Stellar beer list. Closed Sundays and Mondays. 207 N. Primrose Drive, 407-896-2377; $ THE TABLE A 22-seat restaurant modeled after a dinner party gives one of the more interesting dining experiences in the city. A sumptuous five-course meal with hors d’oeuvres and wine pairings await those willing to foot the all-inclusive $100 per person bill; some wine choices can be puzzling, but the food is deftly and deliciously executed. Open Fridays and Saturdays, with one 7 p.m. seating. 8060 Via Dellagio Way, 407900-3463; $$$$ TASTE RESTAURANT A unique entry in College Park’s restaurant scene, Taste serves little dishes with big flavors. Every plate is designed to share — if you can bear to part with them. Bring a crowd and enjoy it all. With occasional live music shows and art exhibits, it’s an effective synthesis of live venue and lounge. 717 W. Smith St., 407-835-0646; $$

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TECHNIQUE Don’t be put off by going to an industrial park for dinner. Student chefs at Le Cordon Bleu College of Culinary Arts serve up fresh, local fare at Technique. The menu consists of a la carte choices, or three- or the five-course tasting menus. Open for lunch and dinner. 8511 Commodity Circle, 407-313-8792; $$$ WOLFGANG PUCK CAFÉ With wild, colorful decor, Puck’s provides a playful atmosphere, surrounding you with tantalizing aromas of fire-roasted pizzas, pastas and grilled fare. But the cuisine ranges from delicious to mediocre, and the loud, bustling setting is not for everyone. Downtown Disney West Side, 1482 E. Buena Vista Drive, Lake Buena Vista, 407-938-9653; $$

310 LAKESIDE / 310 PARK SOUTH The sister restaurants exude casual, sophisticated charm with an understated, leisured pace. Wellexecuted dishes like pan-seared snapper with a magnificent fennel and olive tapenade garnish and beef tenderloin flatbread are as much a draw as people-watching on the patio or avenue. Burgers can be a letdown, but desserts are revelatory. 301 E. Pine St., 407-373-0310; 310 S. Park Ave., Winter Park, 407-647-7277; $$ 903 MILLS MARKET Is it a deli? Grocery store? Bar? Grab a draft beer or a glass (or bottle) of wine, take a seat outside and be one of the friendly people in this newly fashionable neighborhood. Some nights you’ll hear live music. 903 S. Mills Ave., 407-898-4392; $

BRIAR PATCH Primo location on Park Avenue guarantees a steady influx of old fans and curious newcomers. What keeps them coming back is the front-porch coziness and the creative menu. Beware the long lines around breakfast/lunch on weekends – there are many who are willing to wait. 252 N. Park Ave., Winter Park, 407-628-8651; $$ BUFFALO WILD WINGS GRILL & BAR You’d better be in the mood for bar food if you end up at one of the multiple Buffalo Wild Wings in the area. Wings, burgers, flatbreads, sandwiches, fried apps and the like dominate the menu. Visit www. buffalowildwings.com for locations; $ THE CHEESECAKE FACTORY Huge, towering interior with a menu that’s almost as large as its portions. More than 30 varieties of cheesecake complement the meal, though it’s OK to pick up a piece at the takeout counter. 520 N. Orlando Ave., Winter Park, 407-644-4220; 4200 Conroy Road, 407-226-0333; $$$ COPPER CANYON GRILL Honest, hearty American fare, like rotisserie chicken, wood-grilled seafood, home-style meatloaf and St. Louis-style BBQ ribs dominate the menu at this popular spot in Pointe Orlando. 9101 International Drive., 407-363-3933; $$$ THE CLUBHOUSE RESTAURANT Trackside dining at the Kennel Club offers an assortment of American basics (omelets, club sandwiches, steaks) for breakfast, lunch and dinner. On the frieder side, tasty torpedo shrimp and mozzarella sticks could make you less than greyhound-svelte if you indulge too often. Sanford Orlando Kennel Club, 301 Dog Track Road, Longwood, 407-831-1600; $ FIRST WATCH Offbeat morning fare ranges from a California vegetarian frittata to the meanest sausage-and-potatoes platter outside of Bavaria. Cheery, with generous portions and a limited lunch menu. Open until 2:30 p.m. 7500 Sand Lake Road, 407-363-5622; 2425 W.

SR 434, Longwood, 407-774-1830; 1221 S. Orlando Ave., Maitland, 407-740-7437; $ HAMPTON’S DRIVE-IN RESTAURANT Nostalgic drive-in that has stood virtually unchanged since 1957. Brothers Gary and Barry Moore have owned the place since 1980, but still serve the marinated, pressure-cooked fried chicken and awardwinning hot dogs that made Hampton’s famous. Dinner fare is familiar comfort food, from meat loaf to liver and onions to chicken-fried steak to homemade pie. 250 E. International Speedway Blvd., DeLand, 386-734-3860; $$ HANNIBAL’S ON THE SQUARE At this lounge attached to Chez Vincent, the decor is swanky and a bit less starchy than the prim-andproper dining room next door. The bar features one of the better Scotch selections in town: a Macallan 33-year-old single malt (at $70 a shot) is a rare find. 511 W. New England Ave., Winter Park, 407-6294865; $$$$ HILLSTONE A limited menu compensates with huge portions, especially the salads and desserts. Pork ribs, steaks, chicken and a fish of the day, all served in a wood-accented, masculine setting with a lake view from every seat. 215 S. Orlando Ave., Winter Park, 407-740-4005; $$ HOT OLIVES This stylish-but-cozy eatery continues its evolution with an expanded menu, highlights of which include mouth-watering “spicy fried olive” appetizers and a variety of tender fish entrees. Trust your waiter’s suggestions and you almost can’t go wrong. 601 S. New York Ave., Winter Park, 407-629-1030; $$$ JACK’S PLACE (AT ROSEN PLAZA HOTEL) Soft, flattering light from chandeliers enhances sketches of world-class luminaries, many of whom autographed the works that hang on the walls. Entrees range from steak and seafood to pasta and chicken in this New York-style dining establishment. 9700 International Drive, 407-996-9700; $$$

JULIANA’S A stalwart of the ever-growing College Park dining cluster, Juliana’s serves competently executed classics with a Tuscan twist – pork loin marsala, chicken piccata – alongside a generous wine list. If you secretly like Olive Garden’s menu but would prefer to support a local small business, this is your place. 2306 Edgewater Drive, 407-425-1801; $$$ JULIE’S WATERFRONT There’s good cooking going on at Julie’s on Lake Jennie, far enough south of downtown not to be trendy, but still a lure to locals – from the mayor to the Everyman. Sit in the plastic chairs on the back deck to down the famous fried seafood and pitchers of cold beer. Or go for updated options like veggie quesadillas, hummus and tabouli. 4201 S. Orange Ave., 407-240-2557; $ KEKE’S BREAKFAST CAFÉ Offering a modern twist on the classic American diner, this daytime café makes an impression with breakfast basics and griddled goodies. The health-conscious will enjoy the breakfast “salad” – a honeyed yogurt-granola – fruit concoction. Burgers are first-rate options for lunch; be wary of staid fries and not-crispy onion rings. 345 W. Fairbanks Ave., Winter Park, 407-802-4242; 4192 Conroy Road, 407-226-1400; $$ MARKET STREET CAFÉ Retro-modern diner design fits right in with Celebration’s old-days ambience, for a meal that is pleasant if not very exciting. Salads and starters are enormous; the rest of the well-prepared menu is so traditional, you’ll wonder if Mom is in the kitchen. 701 Front St., Celebration, 407-566-1144; $ RAINBOW CAFÉ Unpretentious café inside the Parliament House resort offers standard American classics: cheeseburgers, patty melts, satisfyingly saucy chicken wings and the teriyaki-sauce-laced “bartender salad.” The 8-ounce filet mignon offers a decent value; swoonworthy chocolate cake is gooey-fabulous. 410 N. Orange Blossom Trail, 407-425-7571; $$

RELAX GRILL Nestled along the shores of Lake Eola sits one of the better al fresco dining locales in the city. The courtyard provides enough shade for enjoying light snacks – the chicken kebabs and Mediterranean combo plate are better than the burger. Leisured service allows for people- and animal-watching. 211 Eola Parkway, 407-425-8440; $$

Cocina 214 • page 37

VINES GRILLE & WINE BAR Steaks and seafood straight from an open charcoal grill are what you’ll find in a surprisingly intimate spot in the heart of Sand Lake’s restaurant row. The slightly upscale fare includes perfect tenderloins and crunchy flatbread pizzas, and there’s live music nightly. 7533 W. Sand Lake Road, 407-351-1227; $$$

SONOMA DRAUGHT HOUSE The primary draw to this NoCal-inspired bar is the 49 beers on tap, though a case could be made for the plump roast wings and inviting wraparound patio space as well. “Cast Iron” burgers and “Stone Fire” pizzas are anchors on a menu highlighting good, simple grub, and the small list of wines plays up the Sonoma County angle. 100 S. Eola Drive, 407-7303400; $$

Photo by Jason Greene

SHULA’S 347 GRILL Part sports bar, part trendy steakhouse, this hotel restaurant scores big with a small selection of steaks and fresh seafood. The scene and clamor may not suit all tastes, but the cowboy steak, a 16-ounce bone-in rib-eye, certainly will. Convert the score with vanilla-bean creme brulee. 2974 International Parkway, Lake Mary, 407-531-3567; $$$$ SONAPA GRILLE SoNapa (the name is inspired by California’s wine country) is cozy, with a river-rock fireplace and a lovely bar area. The menu is up-and-down, though: Some items are flavorless, and some – like the pork osso buco – utterly delicious. But service is solid, and the list of California wines is surprisingly affordable. 640 S. Orlando Ave., Maitland, 407-637-2933; $$ STONEWOOD GRILL & TAVERN Part of the allure of this popular tavern is its rustic elegance – stacked stone walls, rich wood tables and high-backed booths. A mainly meat-lover’s menu specializes in meats smoked over an oak-wood grill. Service couldn’t be friendlier. 1210 S. International Parkway, Heathrow, 407-333-3292; 5248 Red Bug Lake Road, Winter Springs, 407-699-4444; $$

might have a fighting chance in Winter Park Village’s rebirth. 430 N. Orlando Ave., Winter Park, 407-2610163; $$

WHITE WOLF CAFÉ With its quirky, romantic setting and easy pace, this antique-market-turned-bar-and-café is a landmark hangout on the cluttered strip of Orange Avenue that lies on the fringes of downtown. The menu is eclectic as well, with vegetarian burgers, Middle Eastern fare and flatbreads, as well as entrees like lobster mac & cheese and cedar-plank salmon. 1829 N. Orange Ave., 407-895-9911; $$

TAP ROOM AT DUBSDREAD Historic dining destination on the grounds of Orlando’s oldest public golf course offers simple, impeccably prepared dishes. Pot roast makes an ideal meat-and-potatoes nosh and homemade key lime pie is a must. Crowds peter out after 9 p.m. 549 W. Par St., 407-650-0100; $$$ TAVERN ON THE LAKE Newly refurbished Tavern on the Lake is an upscale joint with some killer comestibles, and whoever designed the signature martinis should get a medal. Don’t be embarrassed if you don’t drive a luxury car; the room could use some young blood. 6996 Piazza Grande Ave., 407-341-4417; $$ TERRACE 390 Dining on standard American fare in the old Harvey’s Bistro space is a little off-putting, and so-so chicken wings, calamari and tuna tacos do little to help. A prime 8-ounce filet is surprisingly good, as is blackened grouper laced with New Orleans sauce,

but desserts fail to wow. A sprawling terrace in a concrete plaza is open for al fresco dining. Check out their $5 menu when strolling along the back alley. 390 N. Orange Ave., 407-425-2445; $$ TREASURE TAVERN A four-course menu is served to “tavern patrons” while they obseve and participate in the bawdy goings-on at Madame Gretta’s Treasure Tavern. Dinner theater dining means rich food and this is no exception – but if beef tenderloin, mashed potatoes and opera cake don’t do it for you, there’s a small menu of decadent add-ons as well. 6400 Carrier Drive, 407-206-5102; $$$$ TRUFFLES GRILL Our server called it “comfort food with a twist,” which is true enough, but the menu revealed nothing we hadn’t seen before. Mediocre apps and entrees give way to wonderful desserts, all made in-house. While this isn’t a place to take out-of-towners, once the kitchen homes in on flavor over flair, Truffles

WOLFY’S ON THE RIVER Sitting right on the shores of the sleepy St. Johns River, Wolfy’s plays its beachy Key West theme to the hilt, yet the vibe is still comfortable. There are plenty of spots inside to enjoy a shot and the live music, as well as a smattering of outdoor tables to sip on a beer and watch the lazy river slip on by. They’ve even got breakfast on the weekends (with mimosas) to soothe weekend-morning hangovers. 530 N. Palmetto Ave., Sanford, 407-322-2150; $$

4 RIVERS SMOKEHOUSE It’s all about the smoked-to-perfection Angus beef brisket at this Texas-style smokehouse – just be prepared to wait in the ever-present line. Heady sides set this barbecue joint apart from the rest: smoked

Gringos Locos • page 37

corn relish, sweet and meaty baked beans, and cream-cheese-stuffed jalapenos wrapped in bacon. Parking can be tough to find. 2103 W. Fairbanks Ave., Winter Park, 407-474-8377; $$ B.B. KING’S BLUES CLUB B.B. King’s is a roomy, functioning live music venue with a dinner theater setup. Great for seeing music if you have a table, challenging if you don’t. Make a reservation, and do not skip the fried pickles. Pointe Orlando, 9101 International Drive, 407-370-4550; $$ BLACKWATER BAR-B-Q Competition cook-off veterans ply their tricks of the smoky trade and offer tender ribs, juicy chicken – and pretty good cornbread, too. Check out the pepper-laced pulled pork and slow-cooked turkey gracing the tables here. 3405 Edgewater Drive, 407-447-9511; $

SMOKEY BONES BARBEQUE It’s a cross between a mountain lodge and a sports bar. The hook is Rocky Mountain-style barbecue, dating back to a smoker fashioned from a piece of the famous pipeline. There’s nothing out of the ordinary, but it’s done well. 1436 SR 436, Casselberry, 407-673-4901; 303 N. Alafaya Trail, 407-249-2009; 3400 E. Colonial Drive, 407-894-1511; $$ WILDSIDE BAR AND GRILL BBQ Not Dexter’s-bubbly and a few dollars short of Hue-snooty, Wildside’s bar is a casual hangout for those who want a beer after dinner in Thornton Park. An inside bar with adjacent outside seating doesn’t hurt the people-watching – or dog-watching, either. A recently added College Park location is a bit more family-friendly, but serves the same familiar menu. 700 E. Washington St., 407-872-8665; 2305 Edgewater Drive, 407-730-7963; $

BUBBALOU’S BODACIOUS BAR-B-QUE Roomier than the original in Winter Park, this second spot has the same siren smell of smoky, sweet meats: pork, chicken, beef, turkey, sausage, lamb and, for BBQ rebels, gizzards and livers. At meal times, expect to fight your way to a table. 5818 Conroy Road, 407-295-1212; 1471 Lee Road, Winter Park, 407-628-1212; 1049 E. Altamonte Drive, Altamonte Springs, 407-478-1212; $

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CECIL’S TEXAS STYLE BAR-B-Q Specializing in slow-cooking meats over hickory wood, this Texas-style smokehouse raises the bar in fresh-off-the-fire fare. Velvety beef brisket and sausage are signature items, and the smoky succulence of the turkey breast makes for guilt-free indulging. Sides, like the sweet potato souffle and jalapeno chili beans, are outstanding and plentiful. Creamy banana pudding provides a little Southern comfort. 2800 S. Orange Ave., 407-423-9871; $$

BITE HOT DOG COMPANY Desperately seeking sausage of the Vienna beef variety? Bite’s Chicago dog is snap-perfect, with plenty of celery salt and plump sport peppers, and hand-cut fries are cooked in 100 percent peanut oil. In true Chi-town fashion, tables and counters are set with salt and vinegar only – if you want ketchup, you’ll need to walk for it. 470 W. SR 434, Longwood, 407-389-2483; $

KELLER’S REAL SMOKED BAR-B-Q Todd Keller has pulled the recipes of his father (of Fat Boys fame) out of lockdown once again to bring his authentic barbecue to a Winter Park location (adding to sister sites in Lake Mary and Altamonte Springs). The meats, chicken, pork and beef, are the star, tender and infused with the flavor of the pure black jack oak. 3893 Lake Emma Road, Lake Mary, 407-333-1444; 280 S. SR 434, Altamonte Springs, 407-786-7750; 7756 University Blvd., Winter Park, 407-388-1222; $

FIVE GUYS FAMOUS BURGERS AND FRIES Orlando-area beefeaters are just beginning to learn what their D.C.-area counterparts have known for a long time: Five Guys makes the best burgers around. The never-frozen, 100-percent-fresh, lean groundbeef patties can be topped with 15 free toppings such as sauteed mushrooms and A-1 sauce. Skin-on hand-cut fries cry for a splash of vinegar, though you can also get ’em Cajun-style. See www.fiveguys.com for multiple locations; $

O’BOYS REAL SMOKED BAR-B-Q Unlike other barbecue establishments that serve all smoke with no flavor, O’Boys delivers both, with a menu that offers enough variety to satisfy most folks. The sampler platter combines all the yummy favorites of ribs, beef, pork and chicken. If you’re really hungry, an “all-you-can-eat” special starts after 3 p.m. Don’t skip the side dishes. 4932 New Broad St., 407-644-7578; $

GRAFFITI JUNKTION Prodigious patties for the post-grad set seems to be Graffiti Junktion’s function; the crowd is young and the digs run to squatter-chic embellishments. Skip the salad and chili and head straight for the beefedup burgers, served on homemade buns. A full bar keeps the scene lively and the din uproarious. 900 E. Washington St., 407-426-9503; 2401 Edgewater Drive, 407-377-1961; $$

HAMBURGER MARY’S While diversity is key at this gay-friendly burger joint, the menu is unquestionably all-American. Hefty, gloppy burgers satisfy, as do triangles of addictive fried mac-and-cheese, and meatloaf is a must. Desserts like fried Twinkies and Mary Tyler S’mores will test your ticker. 110 W. Church St., Unit H, 321319-0600; $ HARD ROCK CAFÉ With large, statuesque pillars, HRC stands majestically like a Roman Coliseum of rock, boasting more pieces of rock & roll memorabilia than any other Hard Rock. Not only is there a vast, multi-level café, but throw in Hard Rock Live Orlando, a 3,000-person concert venue, and you’ve got a winner. Universal’s CityWalk, 6050 Universal Blvd., 407-351-7625; $$ HOT DOG HEAVEN The setting’s not pretty but that doesn’t keep hordes of “red hot” lovers from feasting on the three dozen varieties of Vienna Beef dogs, which are consumed outdoors, under the landmark neon sign. Hot fries and cold root-beer floats make good accompaniments. 5355 E. Colonial Drive, 407-282-5746; $ JIMMY BUFFETT’S MARGARITAVILLE When you want to soak up Key West flavor, try a visit to Margaritaville in the heart of glitzy CityWalk. There’s more flash in the colorful atmosphere than in the food at this noisy and crowded spot, but the ocean of margarita varieties might satisfy your drinkand-be-merry craving. Universal’s CityWalk, 6000 Universal Blvd., 407-224-2155; $$

HOUSE OF BLUES A theme restaurant with the food to back it up, HOB has expanded its menu beyond its Southern traditions. While almost none of the promised ingredients shows up in the seafood gumbo, the pan-seared voodoo shrimp have a deep, spicy flavor and wonderful mashed potatoes accompany the juicy grilled rosemary chicken. Downtown Disney West Side, Lake Buena Vista, 407-934-2583; $$ KING CAJUN CRAWFISH A host of seasoning choices, top-notch sides (corn on the cob and hush puppies in particular) and cut-rate prices make this Cajun dive a real draw for diners craving crawfish boils. Other NOLA staples are hit (catfish po’boy) and miss (gumbo). End with a strong cup of Café du Monde coffee. 914 N. Mills Ave., 407-704-8863; $ MOJO CAJUN BAR & GRILL Cajun bar and grill in the old Rosie O’Grady’s locale adds Bourbon Street pizzazz to the Church Street scene, but it’s more a draw for barflies than foodies. Booze takes precedence over a menu lined with NOLA staples: po’boys, muffuletas, gumbo and jambalaya. The food won’t impress you, but if you knock back a few too many Abita beers or hurricanes, it’ll satisfy. 129 W. Church St., 407-422-6656; $ THE TASTING ROOM Kevin and Laurie Tarter expand their culinary empire within the confines of the Edgewater Hotel’s ground

JOHNNY’S FILLIN’ STATION Johnny’s appeal does not end with its burgers. We’re not talking about the cold beer, or the billiards tables that keep regulars coming back. It’s the atmosphere — accessible and friendly. 2631 S. Ferncreek Ave., 407-894-6900; $$

BOB MARLEY – A TRIBUTE TO FREEDOM The king of reggae’s open-air Kingston home has been resurrected. Live bands wail in the courtyard, while the laid-back bar staff serves up Red Stripe, rum concoctions and jerk sandwiches. It’s one of the smaller CityWalk venues and weekends are frequently jammed and jammin’. Universal’s CityWalk, 6000 Universal Blvd., 407-224-3663; $ GOLDEN KRUST Jamaican bakery and grill serves island fare to the masses, most notably patties, those staple semicircles of flaky goodness. The spicy beef, fish and veggie varieties are decent, though not great. What is great is the curried goat, an exotic dish with fatty pieces of meat lolling in rich, luxuriant gravy. Also worth a try is the braised oxtail and jerk chicken. 5510 W. Colonial Drive, 407-298-0543; 2753 N. Hiawassee Road, 407-730-3777; $ MAMA MILLIE’S Millie Parker’s jammin’ joint appeals to Carib expats and UCF students alike thanks to the best jerk chicken in town, a luxuriant goat curry and a quartet of vegan choices. “Bashy” wraps and combo bowls will appeal to those on the go. If the chocolate festival is available, grab yourself an order. Meals are served until 10 p.m. 12273 University Blvd., 407382-3570; $ PARADISE ISLAND CAFÉ Lunch is always busy at this little Caribbean eatery

Tako Cheena • page 36

NOAH’S RED HOTS You’ll find the usual meaty Midwestern offerings: gyros, Italian beef, Polish sausage, brats and, of course, franks. The well-dressed Chicago dog ($3.09) is an all-beef Vienna wiener covered with neon-green relish, hot sport peppers, tomato slices, onions, mustard and a pickle spear. The chili-sauerkraut dog ($3.39) is a good balance of flavor, but don’t take it to go – the steamed bun will be mush by the time you get to your destination. 7583 University Blvd., Winter Park, 407-645-4687; $ PINE 22 Humanely handled, grass-fed, hormone- and antibiotic-free meats serve as a base for this downtown eatery’s gourmet burgers. A host of cheeses, sauces and premium toppings present more than 300,000 burger possibilities. Don’t overlook fried pickle chips, onion rings and, at meal’s end, house-made fried pies. Gluten-free options available. 22 E. Pine St., 407-574-2160; $ TOPOS HOT DOGZ-N-PASTRAMI The one-man act at Topos holds down his spot in the Copper Rocket parking lot with wiseacre charm and uncomplicated specialties. The pastrami is sliced thick and topped how you like; every sandwich is made to order. But the best reason to go is the ridiculously munchable sweet potato fries: doublefried crispy perfection. 118 Lake Ave., Maitland, 407-963-9384; $

CHI PAN ASIAN Handsome Baldwin Park spot diversifies its Chinese portfolio to include Turkish fare. The mixed grill of beef, chicken, lamb and shrimp is a kebab-lovers’ delight, though traditional Peking duck, steamed dumplings and beef soup impress as well. Turkish coffee and fresh lychees topped with cream make splendid endings. 4852 New Broad St., 407-8980600; $$ CHINA HUT China and Peru have enjoyed a long-standing diplomatic friendship; now diners can benefit from their culinary partnership. While the traditional Chinese fare is less than remarkable, the flavors of Peru shine. Don’t miss the ceviche mixto, tender citrus-marinated seafood served with a handful of toasted corn nuts. 7615 S. Orange Blossom Trail, 407-240-0467; $$ CHINA IN COLLEGE PARK Chinese-American restaurant on Edgewater Drive fills the niche for takeout Chinese in the neighborhood. They offer a wide variety of hugely portioned Chinese and Thai dishes at very reasonable prices. Also on the menu is a decent selection of sushi. 2122 Edgewater Drive, College Park, 407-839-8869; $ EASTERN PEARL CHINESE RESTAURANT The rotating centers in the dark wood tables serve as a showcase of invention at this wonder of a Chinese restaurant across from the Altamonte Mall. Service is as distinguished as the remarkable contemporary dishes coming out of the talented kitchen, such as mango shrimp, crispy beef and shrimp in “silken creme sauce.” It’s a step out of the ordinary. 478 E. Altamonte Drive, Altamonte Springs, 407-3398877; $$

floor, also home to their Chef’s Table. Small plates take on Big Easy flavors with liberal doses of spice; smoked fish dip, boudin balls crowned with runny egg yolk and Asian beef skewers are stellar, and sublime sauces elevate both shrimp & grits and chicken livers. Dessert shooters satisfy without satiating. Reservations not necessary. 99 W. Plant St., Winter Garden, 407-230-4837; $$ TIBBY’S NEW ORLEANS KITCHEN Festively festooned Cajun kitchen brings a true taste of NOLA to Winter Park. Sample the messiest sandwich in town, the 12-napkin roast beef po’boy, which will dirty more than just a dozen. (The catfish po’boy caters more to neat freaks.) Jamabalaya rules, though seafood gumbo could’ve done with a darker roux. Beignets to end? How clichéd, but oh so good. 2203 Aloma Ave., Winter Park, 407-672-5753; $$

BON APPETIT GRILL There’s dining adventure hiding on South OBT, you just have to look for it. Haitian treasures are what we found here, from the heavenly gumbos – callalou with pig’s feet and “lambi au noix” with conch – to the memorable red beans and rice and fried bananas. Be prepared to share your table with another guest – that’s the way they do it. 4534 S. Orange Blossom Trail, 407-857-2434; $

with popular entrees including boneless jerk chicken and beefy oxtails, simmered in Jamaican herbs and spices. First Fridays feature a band in addition to all the West Indian delicacies to be found here. 377 W. Church St., 407-841-8933; $ SINGH’S ROTI SHOP Rotis come in three types here – sadha (similar to pillowy naan), dhalpouri (made with a fine layer of yellow split peas) and basupshut (thick, buttery and torn like a “busted-up shirt”) – all of which can be ladled with a pungent curry, then folded. Flaming Scotch bonnet hot sauce is a must. 5244 Old Winter Garden Road, 407-253-2900; $ TASTE OF JAMAICA RESTAURANT Little corner shop serving Jamaican goodies like curried goat, cow foot and that singular Island cuisine, jerk chicken. The chicken is tender and flavorful all the way through, with a smoky aftertaste and tantalizing dark color; the heat of Scotch bonnet peppers is more warm and earthy than painful, the way jerk should be. 6406 N. Orange Blossom Trail, 407-298-5866; $ TIMEHRI Curry, roti and a bevy of peppery Chinese dishes make this humble West Colonial eatery a gathering ground for Orlando’s Guyanese community. Chicken curry with buttery, unleavened dhal pouri is the way to go, though oxtail pepperpot offers a true taste of the country. A swig of fresh coconut water keeps you cool – just look for the guy selling it in the parking lot. 7371 W. Colonial Drive, 407-291-2047; $

EMPIRE SZECHUAN A storefront-takeout kind of place that belies the fact that there’s good food coming from these humble surroundings. A long list of the usual Szechuan and Hunan suspects joins traditional Cantonese fare, but everything is cooked as if the kitchen staff cares about the food, and they do. 341 N. Orange Ave., 407-839-1236; $ IMPERIAL DYNASTY Reminiscent of “Polynesian” restaurants of yore, this local incarnation of an award-winning Ormond Beach restaurant serves unexpectedly hot Szechuan and Cantonese food with a marked leaning toward the Western palate. House specials are the best choices. Not disappointing cooking, but not terribly adventurous either. 2045 W. SR 434, Longwood, 407-786-2266; $$ JADE BISTRO Veteran sushi chefs join seasoned restaurant owners for a truly delightful combination. The multi-nation Asian cuisine is no gimmick, each part of the menu meeting and often exceeding expectations. 2425 Edgewater Drive, 407-422-7968; $$ KOY WAN HIBACHI BUFFET Forget whatever concept you may have about buffets. This “upscale” Asian restaurant will have you bursting with quality Chinese dishes, made-to-order hibachi and all the freshly prepared sushi you can eat. 945 W. SR 436, Unit 1179, Altamonte Springs, 407-628-8866 ; $ LAM’S GARDEN The long-standing dim sum hot spot cools somewhat in the evening hours, but that doesn’t stop diners craving traditional Cantonese-American from indulging in the copious number of dishes offered. For freshness, look to the tanks teeming with striped bass, tilapia and lobster; otherwise, take

Photo by Aldrin Capulong

EMERIL’S RESTAURANT ORLANDO There’s much to like about the casual, contemporary atmosphere, warm and spicy colors, and first-class service. The menu is flawlessly prepared and beautifully presented with items like the andouille-crusted Texas redfish, dressed with roasted-pecan vegetable relish and teamed with shoestring potatoes. Universal’s CityWalk, 6000 Universal Blvd., 407-224-2424; $$$$

CHAN’S CHINESE CUISINE If you order from the dinner menu, steer away from dishes that involve sauces and gravies. Better to visit for lunch, when a roving dim-sum service offers an affordable range of dumplings, spring rolls and assorted delicacies sold per piece. 1901 E. Colonial Drive, 407-896-0093; $

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Saffron Indian Cuisine • page 28

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your chances with the huge menu. Wor shu duck is a crispy, garlicky winner. 2505 E. Colonial Drive, 407-896-0370; $$

PEI WEI ASIAN DINER P.F. Chang’s snazzy foray into fast-casual dining offers a wide array of affordable pan-Asian cuisine, from noodles to rice bowls to salads. Try the lettuce wraps (filled with minced chicken or chili-seared pork), a signature dish. 3011 E. Colonial Drive, 407-5638777; 8015 Turkey Lake Road, 407-241-3301; 3402 Technological Ave., 407-563-9905; $ P.F. CHANG’S CHINA BISTRO With its chic trappings and sophisticated service, this chain restaurant at the Winter Park Village alters the concept of Chinese dining. The innovative menu forgoes the traditional for unique alternatives such as “Chang’s chicken in soothing lettuce wraps” and pan-fried Peking dumplings. 436 N. Orlando Ave., Winter Park, 407-622-0188; $$ PU YI Shopping-plaza eatery offers good Chinese, modest prices, fast service and excellent soups. Pricier dinner menu offers items such as “lobster-sizzling wok bar.” But a lunchtime quart of the shrimp fried rice is so packed with fresh shrimp, it’s practically a steal. 10169 University Blvd., 407-678-8188; $

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TERIYAKI HOUSE The name is misleading, but Teriyaki House is the place to come to for real-deal Taiwanese fare. Skip the paper menu and focus on the photo menu: Sweet sausage, fatty pork belly and grilled milkfish all delight, but stinky tofu is lamentably easy on the nasal passages. Ask for three-cup chicken, a Formosan fave that’ll have hot-pot hounds salivating. Closed Sundays. 5600 W. Colonial Drive, 321-281-8088; $$ TREY YUEN Pass on the Americanized Chinese food at this I-Drive mainstay and stick to the dim sum menu, where congee, beef flank soup, shark fin dumplings, saucy chicken feet and other such indulgences await. Don’t pass on the pineapple buns or the sesame seed balls – they make ideal endings. Dim sum offered daily between 10:30 a.m. and 3 p.m. 6800 Visitors Circle, 407-352-6822; $ WINNIE’S ORIENTAL GARDEN A cut above most Asian restaurants in the area, Winnie’s is contemporary in appearance, with a similarly stylish and eclectic menu. Appetizers range from sushi to crispy calamari with soy vinaigrette, and entrees originate from all over the Pacific Rim. 1346 Orange Ave., Winter Park, 407-629-2111; $$

BARNIE’S COFFEEKITCHEN The longtime Central Florida favorite is rebranding itself one shop at a time, and this Park Avenue location is the first to morph. Elegant breakfast and lunch menus betray Barnie’s wide ambition; successful dishes like smoked-salmon tartine, Turkish pots de crème and Israeli shakshuka prove they’re serious. Coffee service has been similarly modernized, with a pour-over station offering the smoothest cup you’ve tasted in a while. 118 S. Park Ave., Winter Park, 407-629-0042; $ DOWNTOWN CREDO A satisfying dark-roasted brew works well in espresso drinks (lattes, macchiato, cappuccino) and as a straight-up drip coffee is served in a room as simple and satisfying as the menu, with clean lines, comfortable modern furniture and just enough embellishment to make the space appealing. The pay-what-you-will model is intriguing; we hope it works out for them. 706 W. Smith St., 407-3712025; $ HOUSE BLEND CAFÉ Lattes and cappuccinos aren’t the only items worth sampling here. Above-average café fare includes the jerk chicken burrito, beef-and-Brie sandwich and breakfast waffles, not to mention freshly made desserts. All of HBC’s profits go toward community service projects in Orange County and around the world. Customers are encouraged to help out, so be sure to inquire if interested in more than just a cup of joe. 10730 W. Colonial Drive, Ocoee, 407-656-7676; $

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MING’S BISTRO Hard to spot, but well worth seeking, Ming’s specializes in the a la “cart” scarfing extravaganza known as dim sum, though spicy beef hot pan with vermicelli and ginger scallion fish fillets are also worthy dishes. Menu descriptions are terse so be sure to ask your red-vested server about the ingredients. 1212 Woodward St., 407-898-9672; $

INFUSION TEA Some special places offer more than what’s on the table, and while the teas and veggie snacks are wonderful at this quaint corner spot, just as much nourishment comes from the “third place” environment created by Christina and Brad Cowherd. 1600 Edgewater Drive, 407-999-5255; $ NATURA COFFEE & TEA Café Britt Costa Rican coffee, a variety of iceblended espresso drinks and more than 20 teas and tisanes are offset by over-the-top pastries and desserts. High-speed wi-fi makes it easy to study (or stalk your Facebook crush) on the comfy sofa. 12078 Collegiate Way, 407-482-5000; $

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PALMANO’S ESPRESSO BAR Feel the flavor of Old Park Avenue at this “coffee roastery” in a classy storefront. The coffee is meticulously fresh-roasted and packaged by the bean or by the cup; the basics are covered, as well as seasonal specialties to enjoy in the garden. 333 S. Park Ave., Winter Park, 407-647-7520; $

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STARDUST VIDEO & COFFEE Coffee, tea, sandwiches, brunch, beer, cocktails, bands, art shows … Stardust offers all things to all people, from the morning office-bound seeking caffeine to students and freelancers seeking a quiet spot to work to a late-night hookup spot. It’s the hub of Audubon Park. 1842 E. Winter Park Road, 407-623-3393; $ WINDSOR ROSE ENGLISH TEA ROOM High-tea favorites – and heartier fare such as steak – are charmingly presented. But the piece de resistance is Queen Victoria cake, crowned by powdered sugar and filled with strawberry preserves and cream cheese. 142 W. Fourth Ave., Mount Dora, 352-735-2551; $

lobster in garlic, butter and wine sauces, and pollo asado, a tender half-chicken with a piquant Creole sauce. 1498 E. Buena Vista Drive, Downtown Disney West Side, Lake Buena Vista, 407-828-0999; $$ BRISAS DEL CARIBE Similar to a Cuban menu with roast pork, chicken and fried-plantain staples, homespun Puerto Rican fare differs in its traditional seasonings: garlic, oregano and vinegar. Waiters take great pains to welcome newcomers, and the food, served in heaping portions, is as inviting as a home-cooked meal. 5773 Curry Ford Road, 407-275-2996; $ CINDY’S TROPICAL CAFÉ Excellent no-frills food that’s extremely light on the wallet. The “Daily Good Deals” – thinly sliced steak, pork or chicken, beans and rice, plantains and a salad – mark the high end of the menu at $5.99. Also available is an array of subs, a breakfast selection and a not-to-be-missed relleno de papa. 601 Virginia Drive, 407-898-6878; $ CUBA LIBRE A festive Cuban restaurant and rum bar, serving all your favorites: ceviche, ropa vieja, corn cakes and more. Can’t decide what to eat? Try the chef’s tasting menu, featuring 15 items, including appetizers, entrees, sides and desserts, for $39 per person. Pointe Orlando, 9101 International Drive, 407-2261600; $$$

BLACK BEAN DELI After dishing out homespun favorites since the mid-’80s, Black Bean has changed hands – from aunt to nephew – and there’s a new vitality to the kitchen. Lunch platters are a bargain; tender roast chicken has a citrusy tang, pork is marinated and slow-cooked and the black beans are dandy. 325 S. Orlando Ave., Winter Park, 407-628-0294; $

GUAVATE Puerto Rican bistro serves an extensive menu of traditional fare, including more than 20 varieties of mofongo. Churrasco mofongo is especially intriguing, with tender morsels of chimichurri-basted skirt steak blended into a heap of green plantains flavored with garlic and crispy pork skin. Spicy pork tripe mondongo caters to adventurous and/or hungover slurpers. 422 S. Alafaya Trail, 407-281-4700; $$

BONGOS CUBAN CAFÉ Gloria Estefan’s brainchild is superb. The talent in the kitchen is affirmed by preparations like the simple combo of mussels, white fish, calamari, shrimp and

LATIN BISTRO CUBAN CAFÉ It doesn’t have to be midnight for Park Avenue patrons to enjoy a medianoche sandwich. Mothers with strollers stand alongside businessmen in Armani sun-

glasses just to get a taste of the sweet, hot pressed bread, made in-house and filled with the traditional Cuban sandwich accoutrements. Breakfast is also served, as are cruelly sweet desserts. 133 E. Morse Blvd., Winter Park, 407-629-2822; $

staples: stellar latkes and knishes, matzo-ball soup, burgers made from beef ground on premises and the overstuffed brisket sandwich will satisfy cravings. 16640 Cagan Crossings Blvd., Clermont, 352-7293399; $$

PADRINO’S CUBAN BISTRO Refined Cuban dishes negate the need for a threehour trip to South Florida – sample the succulent ropa vieja or superbly seasoned picadillo empanadas and you’ll see why. Consider custardy rum-chocolate creme brulee and a shot of café cubano to end. 13586 S. John Young Pkwy, 407-251-5107; $$

CELEBRITY DELLY Lunch-only sandwich spot that serves grand creations named after Tinseltown favorites, as well as deli standbys such as a chopped-liver sandwich on pumpernickel and a great egg cream. Side items stand up too, like the chunky coleslaw with red cabbage and the flavorful matzo-ball soup. 2030 W. Colonial Drive, 407-839-1983; $

RINCON CUBANO CAFETERIA Down-home Cuban cooking awaits those who take the drive down Forsyth Road’s forlorn drag; Maria Alfonso brings her diner to life with a welcoming exuberance. Empanadas are a must (if they haven’t sold out); meat-lovers will revel in the steak palomilla, churrasco and pork-topped mofongo. Breakfast and lunch only; closed Sundays. 3327 N. Forsyth Road, Winter Park, 407-679-5600; $ ROLANDO’S CUBAN RESTAURANT The best Cuban on the east side, with a dressed-up atmosphere and pro staff. The food is delicious, showcasing a bounty of game and seafood, such as the snapper topped with onions and bell peppers. Dessert choices also abound. 870 Semoran Blvd., Casselberry, 407-767-9677; $

COHEN’S DELI AND BUTCHER SHOP When Amira’s Kosher Deli closed its doors, it left a vacuum in the mouths and bellies of those craving kosher staples, but Amira’s son, Justin, is doing his part to fill that vacuum. Pucker up over sour dills (served whole) while perusing Cohen’s menu of

TOOJAY’S GOURMET DELI Modernized deli holds its own with regards to tradition, doing justice to chopped liver and cheese blintzes. But the menu opens up to contemporary palates as well with wraps, pasta, omelets and burgers. Don’t leave without a black-and-white cookie. 2400 E. Colonial Drive, 407-894-1718; 7600 Dr. Phillips Blvd., 407-355-0340; 515 E. Altamonte Drive, Altamonte Springs, 407-830-1770; $$

APPLETON’S CAFÉ Biscuits to bacon, this Lake Mary greasy spoon is down-home to the core. Breakfast is the big draw: Crispy country-fried steak and thick, spicy sausage gravy offer bona fide Southern comfort. The coffee, like the kitschy decor, isn’t for the faint of heart. 3575 Lake Mary Blvd., Lake Mary, 407-323-7663; $ BANANAS: A MODERN AMERICAN DINER Drag queens roam this quirky joint while patrons indulge in classic diner fare with a twist. Burgers are top-notch and chili dogs messy, but for an ultimate late-night drunk-food meal, the chicken and waffles

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is the way to go. Open 24 hours Fridays and Saturdays. 924 N. Mills Ave., 407-480-2200; $$ CHRISTO’S CAFÉ Venerable College Park diner celebrates its throwback image by proudly serving classic American fare, as it has for decades. Breakfasts have the hungry and hungover clamoring for tables and pre-noon faves such as deep-fried French toast and Greek omelets. 1815 Edgewater Drive, 407-425-8136; $

haven. Like the service, apple strudel shines. 3586 Aloma Ave., Winter Park, 407-657-0020; $$

Maxine’s on Shine • page 13

EUROPOL POLISH DELI Neither the plain storefront (home of the former Warzawa), buried in the plaza at the juncture of Aloma Avenue and State Road 436, nor the spare shotgun interior indicates the wealth of stock inside: frozen homemade pierogi, fresh rye bread, Polish butter and a dozen kinds of sausage. 3090 Aloma Ave., Winter Park, 407-678-0909; $

CHUBBY’S FAMILY RESTAURANT The smell of bacon wafts out of the front door at Chubby’s, where breakfast is the main meal. Try “Sherry’s skillet”: crispy potatoes, sauteed onions, savory sausage, two eggs, cheddar cheese and white sausage gravy. For lunch, there are burgers, sandwiches, salads and side dishes ranging from fried okra to Spam. 10376 E. Colonial Drive, 407380-6006; $

Photo by Aldrin Capulong

CHUCK’S RESTAURANT Diner wears its rough edges well, serving solid fare to regulars who depend on jump-starting their day with items like sausage gravy over biscuits. The British owners add a twist to the standard menu with daily specials that might include their home-style favorites, like bangers and mash. 807 N. Mills Ave., 407-898-8143; $ JUNIOR’S DINER This popular diner in the heart of the Audubon Park neighborhood serves up inexpensive, tasty grub for breakfast, lunch and, as of recently, dinner. The menu features classic diner fare – eggs any way you want them, corned-beef hash, pancakes, burgers. Expect a wait for breakfast on the weekends. 2920 Corrine Drive, 407-894-8871; $ LINDA’S WINTER PARK DINER A true diner serving the classics: chili omelets, meatloaf and mashed potatoes, bottomless cups of coffee. Service is on point and you can’t beat the location – the perfect place to get a jump on your weekend errands. 1700 W. Fairbanks Ave., Winter Park, 407-644-2343; $

LACOMKA BAKERY & DELI The multicultural mix of foods from Russia includes whole smoked herrings so tender that they spread like pate. Potato dumplings and borscht worthy of a stay at the Summer Palace are also served. On your way out, buy a box of Czar Nicholas Royal Tea or take home some meat and cheese blintzes. 2050 Semoran Blvd., Winter Park, 407-677-1101; $ POLONIA POLISH RESTAURANT Diners with bored palates will find new things to revive appetites at this highly traditional Polish restaurant. Cold cuts imported from Chicago and homemade desserts bracket slow-cooked stews and crispy potato pancakes; many dishes are prepared from family recipes. 750 S. Highway 17-92, Longwood, 407-331-1933.

PATSIO’S DINER A particularly good restaurant to try late at night when your group can’t agree on what to eat. The American fare is well-executed visit after visit – especially the enormous slices of cake – but Greek is what’s interesting here. Standouts include the spanakopita, pastitsio and dolmades. 1409 S. Semoran Blvd., Winter Park, 407-677-8073; $$ SHAKERS AMERICAN CAFÉ The tiny cottage (named for the collection of saltand-pepper shakers displayed inside) has served its tried-and-true breakfast and lunch menu for ages without becoming outdated. There’s not much space inside, so many lunch fans order takeout, aided by the daily update of specials on their website. 1308 Edgewater Drive, 407-422-9227; $

ANNA’S POLISH RESTAURANT Charming little eatery offers up a bevy of Polish staples – corpulent kielbasas, pillowy pierogies and a hearty goulash. The crispy chicken cutlet is worthy of “chef’s specialty” status, while the red borscht will get some vegetables on the plate in this meat-lover’s

THE MELTING POT Popular fondue spot where entrees include seafood, beef, chicken and vegetarian options prepared either in cholesterol-free peanut oil or a less traditional “court bouillon” seasoned broth. But the real treat is dessert, and the raspberry milk-chocolate fondue. Reservations suggested. 7549 W. Sand Lake Road, 407-903-1100; 1200 Douglas Ave., Longwood, 407862-8773; $$$

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ast akf Bre unch & L nly! O

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peches, ballotines de volaille and beef burgundy are standout mains, but forgo the too-thin French onion soup. Tableside desserts are a nice touch. Simple wine list leans toward Bordeaux and pinot noirs. 216 N. Park Ave., Winter Park, 407-671-4424; $$$

CAFÉ 906 Adorable breakfast spot with a French-accented gentleman behind the counter specializes in perfect pastry – don’t miss the viennoise chocolat, a twisted brioche studded with dark chocolate – but no one is left out: There are gluten-free baked goods as well, along with daily fresh soups and savories like pepperoni-and-pepper jack rolls. 906 W. Fairbanks Ave., Winter Park, 407-975-0600; $ CAFÉ DE FRANCE Low-key boîte on high-profile Park Avenue shuns the weighty and complicated for traditional and simple cuisine not sauced into submission. Classics like escargots a l’ail and French onion soup are textbook renditions, while Bloody Mary bisque is an airy, though scorching, starter. To finish: chocolate souffle and profiteroles. 526 S. Park Ave., Winter Park, 407647-1869; $$$$ CAFÉ ROUGE BISTRO Humble European boîte on bustling First Street in Sanford offers a focused menu of French- and English-inspired bistro fare. Do yourself a favor by ordering the beer-battered fish and chips – you won’t find it any better than this in the greater Orlando area. Open daily for breakfast and lunch. Closed Sunday and Monday for dinner. 129 W. First St., Sanford, 407-324-7887; $$

BAUERN-STUBE A lively German gasthaus setting and menu that is extensive and filling. The moist and tender sauerbraten is a specialty, featuring sliced roast beef with a deep, dark gravy of bay leaves and cloves. But don’t miss the spaetzle, sauerkraut and Black Forest cake. 8015 S. Orange Ave., 407-857-8404; $$ HOLLERBACH’S WILLOW TREE CAFÉ Homey (or “gemütlichkeit”) gasthaus in Sanford’s historic downtown district offers bier, wursts, spaetzle, strudel and some of the finest sweet red cabbage you’ll eat, but the talent in the kitchen extends well beyond simply German food: Once a month, the chef serves a haute tasting menu. 205 E. First St., Sanford, 407-321-2204; $$

KOUZZINA Cat Cora’s big, bright, boisterous Greek kitchen is well worth the distractions of dining on Disney property. Roasted pepper and chickpea soup is a worthy starter to a meal that should culminate with the superlative traditional whole fish or perfectly balanced cinnamon-stewed chicken. Wine lovers will revel in the Iron Chef’s own “Coranation” cabernet. 2101 N. Epcot Resorts Blvd., Lake Buena Vista, 407939-3463; $$$ MAYERION MYKONOS Small bistro with a bustling, open-air kitchen kicks Greek cuisine to a heavenly level. Do not miss the thallasina skaras, a charbroiled trio of shrimp, octopus and calamari finished with a crisp lemon vinaigrette. 2401 W. SR 434, Longwood, 407-7889095; $$ MEDITERRANEAN BLUE Familiar South Orlando location has been spruced up a bit and stocked with eco-friendly wares. The menu is deceptively simple, but nearly everything is a winner. The Provence sandwich is a delicious trip across the salty-savory spectrum, and falafel gets extra points for fresh, soft pita and house-made tzatziki sauce. 435 E. Michigan St., 407-422-2583; $ OLYMPIA RESTAURANT Taste the Greek elements – sunshine, earth and sea

The Rusty Spoon • page 13

CHEZ VINCENT Housed along the spiffed-up streetscape in a happening enclave west of Park Avenue, the 15-table Chez Vincent serves seductive French cuisine in a casual, cosmopolitan atmosphere. It’s a strong contender among the area’s finest. 533 W. New England Ave., Winter Park, 407-599-2929; $$$

Photo by Aldrin Capulong

LES PETITS PLEASURES The Princeton Street bakery is a brilliant display of classic French pastry: napoleons, madeleines, apple turnovers and perfectly laminated croissants. Chef Philippe Cahagne and his statuesque wife don’t skimp on lunch either, serving up creamy quiches and buttery croque madame sandwiches in true Gallic style. 2120 Edgewater Drive, 407-422-4702; $ PARIS BISTRO Fine French fare comes to the northern end of Park Avenue with a roll call of bistro classics. Canard aux

BOMBAY CAFÉ This sanctuary of South Indian fare gives Woodlands a run for its money with infernal vegetarian curries, enormous dosas and comforting flatbreads. Chaats (snacky mixes) offer textural diversity with varying levels of heat. Lunch thalis are available Monday to Sunday. 1137 Doss Ave., 407-240-5151; $ BOMBAY GRILL Inside one of the city’s most popular Indian grocers sits a grill serving up fresh-from-the-butcher meats at prices that can’t be beat. Grilled lamb chops are sublimely succulent, and plush beef kebabs and flavorful minced lamb are just as exceptional. Veggie samosas notwithstanding, there’s not much here for the meatless crowd. No indoor dining. 11301 S. Orange Blossom, 407-856-1780; $ DAKSHIN A Southern Indian haven for lovers of seafood and vegetarian wonders. Lobster curry? You bet, along with delicacies from Goa and Mangalore and a separate dinner menu offering dosas, delicate Indian crepes as fragrant as they are delicious. 12541 SR 535, Lake Buena Vista, 407-827-9080; $$

KABOB N’ CURRY The kebabs and curries at this tastefully appointed tourist-area eatery pack a lot of heat, but riches await those who battle the blaze. Gloriously spiced chapli kebabs are worth the drive alone, and nihari’s velvety shanks of beef makes for a truly comforting nosh. 12185 S. Apopka-Vineland Road, 407-2387684; $

DYLAN’S DELI & BISTRO More bistro than deli, Dylan’s sandwiches, montaditos, and tapas are a welcome sight on North Orange Avenue’s food-focused strip. Brisket and Swiss cheese canapés, speck with figs and a quiche of caramelized leeks are all superb. Served at lunch only, the creatively stuffed paninis are a midday European vacation for your palate. Beer and wine available. 1198 N. Orange Ave., Winter Park, 407-622-7578; $

LE COQ AU VIN Incredible, affordable French cuisine is the hallmark of this south Orlando landmark. Graceful perfection distinguishes dishes such as “grouper bronzé aux dix épices,” a fillet encrusted with toasted pecans and spices and bathed in citrus beurre blanc, and the center-cut black Angus steak, served with a dollop of peppercorn sauce. 4800 S. Orange Ave., 407-8516980; $$$$

ANMOL INDIAN RESTAURANT One of the only places to score Indian on the east side of town, Anmol may look drab but the food has flash. Try the coriander-seasoned onionkulcha flatbread and veggie dishes like the creamy paneer masala. Other entrees include steaming-hot tandooris. 12239 University Blvd., 407-384-8850; $$

INDIA PALACE Immaculate and attractive setting, though a bit smaller than the name implies. Delicious and exotic seasonings on beef, lamb or chicken entrees, plus a dozen vegetarian dishes, and an ample and varied eight-item starter. 8530 Palm Parkway, 407-2382322; $$

CITRICOS Dazzling eatery puts a French focus on its international fare, centered on slow-roasted meats. Everything from breads to desserts is exquisite – it’s expensive but worth it. Disney’s Grand Floridian Resort & Spa, Lake Buena Vista, 407-824-2989; $$$$

GREEN LEMON CAFÉ Quaint café specializes in crepes of both the sweet and savory kind. Pesto-heavy chicken Florentine is a fave, while turkey and Brie with green apple slices is a more subtle offering. The absence of crepes suzette is disappointing, but there’s plenty to assuage your sugar cravings. A brunch menu is offered weekend mornings. 1945 Aloma Ave., Winter Park, 407-6730225; $

quick stop. Dinner is pleasant and highlights the Northern Indian cuisine, but this is a strip-mall eatery made for filling up on food, not atmosphere. 5748 International Drive, 407-370-9830; $$

– that inspire the menu at this elegant if gently worn mainstay, here since 1979. The deep-fried squid is beautifully presented, and the “Hercules platter” is an easy way to sample the heartier menu items. 8505 E. Colonial Drive, 407-273-7836; $$ CYPRIANA RESTAURANT An excellent choice for hearty Greek cuisine at reasonable prices in a cheerful, bustling setting. Appetizers include charbroiled octopus with olive oil, garlic and lemon; and kotopita, phyllo pastry layered with chicken, herbs, mushrooms and peppers. Hearty entrees include souvlaki, gyros and rotisserie chicken. 505 Semoran Blvd., Casselberry, 407-834-8088; 12309 E. Colonial Drive, 407-286-4051; $ THE GREEK CORNER The view of the downtown skyline is spectacular from this nook on Orange Avenue across from Lake Ivanhoe. Dining outside is a must, as is the hearty meze platter, with a sampling of enough Greek specialties – baked feta, gyro meat, braised lamb and traditional salads melitzanosalat and taramosalata – to satisfy the gods on Mount Olympus. 1600 N. Orange Ave., 407-228-0303; $$ GREEK FLAME TAVERNA This transplanted taverna serves up so-so standards – and far better out-of-the-ordinary items. Kleftico, slices of slow-roasted lamb mixed with veggies and feta baked in parchment, is one such dish, as is kreatopita, a flaky beef-and-pine-nut-filled pie, and taramosalata, a fluffy caviar-based spread. 7600 Dr. Phillips Blvd., 407-370-4624; $$

TAVERNA OPA Boisterous Greek taverna at Pointe Orlando is equal parts restaurant and nightclub; table dancing is encouraged. A variety of small plates allow for diverse dining, with saganaki (pan-fried cheese) and ouzo-infused mussels being worthy selections. Moussaka is just average, but the meat platter is a carnivore’s delight. Pointe Orlando, 9101 International Drive, 407-351-8660; $$ THEO’S KITCHEN Head into this hole in the wall for the superbly seasoned fried chicken – everyone else does. But the lamb gyros, stuffed grape leaves, hummus, falafel and other Syrian/Greek standbys are just as worthy. Prices are dirt-cheap. 435 E. Michigan St., 407-849-0810; $

AASHIRWAD It’s hard to beat the cost and variety of favorite dishes in the daily lunch buffet, even if it’s not a

KHASIYAT Most people come to this humble vegetarian hideaway for the cheap lunch buffet – well-stocked with five different curries and an assortment of sweets – but the real star is the selection of savory Indian snacks. Can’t-miss offerings: enormous, not-at-all-greasy dosai masala and addictive bhel puri. Wash it all down with a Limca, the official soft drink of the subcontinent. 852 W. Lancaster Road, 407-888-2147; $ KOHINOOR The best of the traditional Indian recipes are found among the tandoori selections: dishes prepared slowly, with mild and aromatic herbs, in a clay oven. Service is exceptional. 249 W. SR 436, Altamonte Springs, 407-788-6004; $$ MEMORIES OF INDIA All regions of India are accounted for at this fancybut-warm restaurant tucked away in a plaza. From the coastal regions come seafood dishes such as an excellent Goan fish curry. From the northern areas, there are succulent meats cooked tandoor-style. It’s all good. 7625 Turkey Lake Road, 407-370-3277; $$ MOGHUL INDIAN CUISINE Conveniently located for Full Sail students and staff, but don’t expect anything beyond the ordinary. Tried-and-true standards define Moghul’s kitchen, especially superb chicken tikka and seekh kebabs. Ghee-slicked peshawari naan are buttery, nutty and delightfully sweet wonders. Note: Ordering dishes “Indian hot” amounts to infernal. Closed Mondays. 401 N. Semoran Blvd., Winter Park, 407-599-9001; $$ PASSAGE TO INDIA For more than a decade, this restaurant has been a consistent purveyor of fine Indian food, and its formal

Junior Colombian Burger • page 36

atmosphere matches the upscale menu. Sample the range of spices and textures in the appetizer platter, which captures the wonders of the excellent entrees. Service is attentive. 6129 Westwood Blvd., 407-351-3456; $$ NEW PUNJAB INDIAN RESTAURANT Authentic Indian standby on International Drive offers refuge from the bright lights and fast-food franchises. They take an excellent tour through the classics – curries, fried puff breads, chutneys, stewed lentils and tasty tandoori dishes like tikka kebab, with char-broiled meat, onions, peppers and tomatoes. 7451 International Drive, 407-352-7887; $$ SAFFRON INDIAN CUISINE West Sand Lakers get their fill of South Indian staples in this stylishly decorated space. Salmon seared on a hot stone and tandoori lamb chops marinated in ginger and rum are among the more noteworthy dishes in the sea of standards. Open daily for lunch and dinner. 7724 W. Sand Lake Road, 407-674-8899; $$$

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All You Can Eat Buffet only $9.95

Omelette & Pasta Stations

TABLA BAR & GRILL Tabla raises the bar for Indian cuisine in Orlando with a lengthy menu of inspired Indian-fusion dishes. Chile pakoras trump traditional jalapeno poppers; kesari murgh marries homemade pesto and saffron sauce; and lamb do piazza’s heady curry is both assertive and aromatic. Desserts, like toffee pudding cake and chocolate malai kofta, continue the razzle-dazzling. Servers, though well-meaning, can exhibit inexperience. 5827 Caravan Court, 407-248-9400; $$ TAMARIND INDIAN CUISINE Winter Park finally gets a straight-up Indian restaurant, and Tamarind’s familiar, fiery and focused dishes are worthy of the hamlet’s food-driven denizens. Samosas and sizzling tandoor-fired lamb chops are the way to start; sample the “Tamarind special chicken” and bold salmon tikka for mains; then end with exotic falooda kulfi, ice cream made of condensed milk, rose syrup and crushed pistachios. 501 N. Orlando Ave., Winter Park, 321-207-0760; $$ WOODLANDS Pure vegetarian. Pure delight. Southern Indian delicacies based on hot, spicy, sour and sweet, hitting every part of the tongue with equal splendor. Go straight for the thali (assortment plate) specials for a bit of everything, or savor Tamil specialties like filled-pancake dosai. 6040 S. Orange Blossom Trail, 407-854-3330; $$

FIDDLER’S GREEN Draft ales, lagers and stouts, plus traditional Irish fare (corned beef and cabbage) and more ambitious offerings such as grilled salmon with champagne sauce. This pub proves that a focus on flavor, presentation and service can spell “gourmet” for Irish cuisine. 544 W. Fairbanks Ave., Winter Park, 407-645-2050; $ THE HARP Downtown gastropub oozes a rustic charm and class; Cordon Bleu chef Cody Patterson shines with such dishes as luscious rack of lamb with saffron risotto and “stoplight prawns,” served with a trio of red, yellow and green sauces. Lunch or by special booking only. 25 S. Magnolia Ave., 407-481-2928; $$$ RAGLAN ROAD IRISH PUB In keeping with its Downtown Disney location, Raglan Road is big, and there’s usually a line to get inside. An inventive Irish menu makes a meal worthwhile, but the live music and plentiful bar seating make it just as rewarding to pull up a stool and have ’em pull a pint. 1640 E. Buena Vista Drive, Lake Buena Vista, 407-938-0300; $$$

ANTHONY’S COAL FIRED PIZZA “Well-done” means slightly blackened at this Brooklyn-style pizzeria. A simple menu – thin-crust pizza, wings, two sandwich choices – includes quality classics like meatballs, eggplant and broccoli rabe. Pies take just four minutes to bake, and the waitresses are wonderfully cheery. 8301 Turkey Lake Road, 407-363-9466; $$ ANTHONY’S PIZZA CAFÉ Located in historic Thornton Park in a former carrepair shop that’s been washed with bronze colors and a Tuscan atmosphere, the café’s two dozen tables – inside and on the courtyard – are a comfortable spot to enjoy traditional Italian pastas, pizzas, and a cocktail or glass of wine. 100 N. Summerlin Ave., 407-648-0009; $$ ANTONIO’S CAFÉ DOWNSTAIRS A favorite alternative to its fancier upstairs sister, Antonio’s downstairs deli offers counter service and full table service. But be prepared to have your dining space invaded by shoppers browsing the gourmet goodies. 611 S. Orlando Ave., Maitland, 407-6451035; $$

Photo by Aldrin Capulong

CLADDAGH COTTAGE Laid-back neighborhood pub run by Jimmy and Kathy Mulvaney, who keep the ale flowing, fortified by traditional Irish stick-to-your-ribs fare like a variety of pastry pies filled with savory, meaty gravy

inside buttery crusts. The Guinness will be properly double-poured at this authentic and casual spot soaked in Irish charm. 4308 Curry Ford Road, 407895-1555; $

ANTONIO’S LA FIAMMA RESTAURANT Smart and sophisticated without being imposing, Antonio’s serves a first-rate combination of atmosphere and cuisine. Sauces are the heart of chef Sebastian Santangelo’s creations – like a double-thick sauteed veal chop in a cognac sauce, or zuppa di pesce, a mixed bag of seafood in an herbed broth. 611 S. Orlando Ave., Maitland, 407-645-1035; $$$ ANTONIO’S RISTORANTE AT SAND LAKE This sister restaurant to Antonio’s Café Downstairs offers Italian deli-style fare such as lasagne di vegetali, pizzas and calzones without the annoyance of shoppers browsing through the aisles for gourmet staples. 7559 W. Sand Lake Road, 407-363-9191; $$ ARMANDO’S CUCINA ITALIANA & PIZZERIA Trendy Hannibal Square hot spot lures a diverse crowd for primo Italian standbys and wonderfully blistered pizzas, care of a custom-built brick oven. The egg-topped San Giovanni pizza is a crowd fave and ideal for sharing, but don’t overlook carpaccio with shaved Parmesan and pear slices. Pastas and secondi are simply presented, and shine because of it. Reservations strongly recommended. Patio dining available. 463 W. New England Ave., Winter Park, 407-951-8930; $$

serves some of the finest pasta and classic Italian entrees in town. Sip wine and enjoy the skyline from the patio. 825 N. Magnolia Ave., 407-839-0235; $$$ CAFFE POSITANO Impeccable Italian in a bustling trattoria atmosphere with friendly service and manageable prices. The array of “pizzettes” may be one of the area’s best-kept secrets, with crusts fired in the oven to crunchy perfection. 3030 E. Semoran Blvd., Apopka, 407-774-8080; $$ CHRISTINI’S RISTORANTE ITALIANO The menu covers all regional cuisines of Italy, but here you get so much more: attractive ambience, attentive service. The prices can make this a choice for special occasions only, but it doesn’t deter business; reservations are a necessity on weekends. 7600 Dr. Phillips Blvd., 407-345-8770; $$$$ CORNERSTONE PIZZA It’s neither new nor fancy, but this neighborhood dive turns out thin-crust pizzas that have been time- and taste-tested by the everyday characters who find refuge there. The loaded stromboli is totally over the top in a made-by-hungry-stoners way. 1513 E. Michigan St., 407-894-4333; $

BICE The Portofino Bay Hotel’s latest restaurant plays it safe, serving luxe comfort food at (for Orlando) stratospheric prices. Both the menu and the wine list offer way too many choices, mostly delicious, but none surprising – except the desserts, which are not only unusual but brilliantly prepared. 5601 Universal Blvd., 407-503-1415; $$$$

ENZO’S RESTAURANT ON THE LAKE Beautiful and sophisticated, the lakefront setting is as much of a draw as the culinary excellence of this Longwood mainstay. Along with the buzzing ambience comes occasional service lapses, but the kitchen makes up for them with Italian delicacies including fresh pasta and a killer carpaccio. 1130 S. Highway 17-92, Longwood, 407-834-9872; $$$

BRAVO CUCINA ITALIANA Enormous chain eatery serves up equal parts kitsch, class and comfort of the Roman variety. Dishes won’t necessarily wow, but the roasted red-pepper cream sauce in the pasta bravo is gratifying, as is zesty chicken scallopini. Pass on overly sweet tiramisu and opt for torta di cioccolata or warm berry cake instead. 7924 Via Dellagio Way, 407-351-5880; $$

FAMAS RISTORANTE ITALIANO E PIZZERIA Rosario Limonio’s enticing dishes prove he’s a star in the making. Whether it’s filet coated with silken cognac-porcini sauce, rosemary-rubbed rack of lamb or four-cheese gnocchi, you’ll be hard-pressed to find a dish unworthy of praise. 5478 Central Florida Parkway, 407-239-9058; $$$

BRICK & FIRE PIZZA AND WINE CO. Ex-Church Street pizza joint is strictly upper-crust. Goat-cheese pizza and the pulled-chicken calzone with gouda and portobello shine; baked ziti with Brie provides mac-and-cheese comfort for grown-ups. The deep-dish apple pie is big enough to share. 1621 S. Orange Ave., 407-426-8922; $$$ BRIO TUSCAN GRILLE With a stylish atmosphere and well-executed menus, this Tuscan grill excels at flatbread pizzas and woodgrilled steak. A bakery adds warmth to this bustling eatery at Millenia Mall. Try the “Bellini brunch” on weekends. Mall at Millenia, 4200 Conroy Road, 407-351-8909; 480 N. Orlando Ave., Winter Park, 407-622-5611; $$ BROOKLYN PIZZA Expatriate New Yorkers, your prayers have been answered; Brooklyn-style pizza is here. Trading on a family tradition going back 40 years, Brooklyn Pizza delivers (and yes, they do deliver) the kind of handmade, authentic pies you knew as a kid, along with subs and baked dinners. 1881 W. Fairbanks Ave., Winter Park, 407-622-7499; $ BUCA DI BEPPO At this kitschy eatery, everything is done in a big, Italian way: Every inch of wall space is garishly festooned with memorabilia, and an army of waiters delivers enormous portions – pizzas as big as countertops, foot-long lasagna. Reservations are essential. 1351 S. Orlando Ave., Maitland, 407-6227663; Florida Mall, 8001 S. Orange Blossom Trail, 407-859-7844; $$ CAFÉ ITALIANO This vintage, family-run Italian restaurant serves up food with high standards of quality in an atmosphere that’s comfortable on the inside, iffy on the outside. Traditional dishes dominate the menu, with a good selection of sandwiches and pizza, all of which is prepared with the same care the owners have been applying for nearly 40 years. 565 N. Semoran Blvd., 407-277-6840; $$ CAFÉ TRASTEVERE Upscale eatery in renovated two-story house offers a casual atmosphere and a postmodern interior, and

ORLANDO’S NEIGHBORHOOD RESTAURANT

GARGI’S The view of Lake Ivanhoe is spectacular – especially at sunset – the menu and decor is classic and classy, and the food is satisfying, if nothing fancy. The experience will cost you, though, and be prepared to wait patiently for a drink, the bill, whatever. 1414 N. Orange Ave., 407-894-7907; $$$ GINO’S PIZZA & BREW III Small but full of action, and open from 10 a.m.-4 a.m., Gino’s is a downtown stage for pizza-making performance art. Nearly a dozen choices of pizza are on display at any given time, plus strombolis, calzones, wings, salads and pasta dishes. 54 W. Church., 407-447-0793; $ GIOVANNI’S ITALIAN RESTAURANT & PIZZERIA One of five in the chain operated by three brothers from New York. Bright and immaculate, with comfy booths, a family atmosphere and reasonable prices. All the traditional touchstones are on the menu – pastas, sauces, pizzas, sandwhiches, seafood, steaks – and daily specials keep the mix fresh. 1915 Aloma Ave., Winter Park, 407-673-8800; 2140 S. Chickasaw Trail, 321-235-9600; 4250 Alafaya Trail, Oviedo, 407-359-5900; $$ IL PESCATORE Former owner Stefano LaCommare and family have moved on, but in this simple atmosphere their dishes live on, true Italian through and through. Seafood specialties make this spot unique; choosing between all the huge pasta entrees is pleasingly difficult. 651 N. Primrose Drive, 407-896-6763; $$ KING FISH BISTRO Don’t let the name of this Vietnamese-owned Italian eatery fool you – pizza, pasta, calzones and risotto are the specialties. But two of the fish offerings, the Mediterranean salmon salad and the pan-roasted cobia served with creamy tarragon linguine, are both wonderful. Service is polished and professional. Closed Sundays. 2124 Edgewater Drive, 407-3677992; $$ LAGO With a stunning interior and the dishes to match, this Baldwin Park boîte is sure to attract from near and far. Stuffed meatballs and oven-roasted beets over

THE FOOD Italian Origins New World Explorations THE VIBE Sexy, Comfortable, Delicious THE GOAL Your Neighborhood Restaurant

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ENTERTAINMENT THURSDAY-SUNDAY LUNCH TUES-FRI DINNER TUES-SUN REJUICINATION BRUNCH EVERY SUNDAY

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337 N. Shine Ave. • 407.674.6841 Reservations Online • Maxinesonshine.com 29

Tibby’s New Orleans Kitchen • page 18

baby arugula are wonderfully rustic starters; talent in the kitchen shines through in espresso-rubbed ahi tuna. House-made tiramisu is worthy of superlatives. Extensive wine list offers bottles for any budget. 4979 New Broad St., 407-331-5246; $$$$ LAZY MOON PIZZA This East Orlando spot holds its own as a haven for the anti-Budweiser legions; pizza and beer is more than just a slice and some suds here. A wide selection of niche imports (a Wittekerke is perfect with pizza) and microbrews are stocked in their cooler. Bonus: The slices are huuuge. 12269 University Blvd., 407-658-2396; $ LIDO’S ITALIAN RESTAURANT Discovering Lido’s is like stumbling into a family reunion. For a small neighborhood haunt, there’s a wide variety of inexpensive wines, and strict adherence to its motto: old-style cooking in a comfortable atmosphere. 2509 S. Orange Ave., 407-423-8933; $$ LIL’ ANTHONY’S New York-style pizza in a down-to-earth atmosphere, specializing in the basics: pies, calzones, garlic knots. There are plenty of creative pies to try, like TJ’s Italian Stallion (hot sauce!) and Joey’s Brooklyn Special (alfredo sauce and bacon!). 425 S. Avalon Park Blvd., 407-737-7499; 5229 Red Bug Lake Road, Winter Springs, 407-869-7499; $ LOUIE & MARIA’S ITALIAN RESTAURANT Sit-down restaurant with great pizzas, wonderful eggplant parmigiana, and slightly more unusual items like grouper in lemon cream sauce and dark, wine-laden chicken marsala. You’ll have to wait, even if it’s takeout, but it’s worth it. 9728 E. Colonial Drive, 407-277-7755; $$ LUIGINO’S PASTA AND STEAK HOUSE Heathrow entrepreneur Jeno Paulucci’s namesake restaurant presents steaks and pastas prepared with flair and served in a country-club atmosphere with a picturesque view. The food is consistently delicious, and service is impeccable yet relaxed. 120 International Parkway, Lake Mary, 407-333-2847; $$$

Photo by Aldrin Capulong

MATTEO’S RISTORANTE ITALIANO A prosaic exterior belies a warm and welcoming dining room flaunting enormous platters of Italian favorites served family-style. Bring an appetite and several dinner companions to gorge on chopped salad, superb stuffed mushrooms and baked clams, veal Valdostana and “burnt vegetables”; you’ll regret it if you don’t. Valet parking is available but unnecessary. 5350 International Drive, 407-345-4747; $$$ MELLOW MUSHROOM The quasi-hippie vibe at this Atlanta mainstay means you can get tofu on your pizza and it still tastes good; a menu of hoagies and superb salads, as well as more traditional pizzas, make this a chain you don’t have to feel guilty about loving. 2015 Aloma Ave., Winter Park, 407-657-7755; 11680 E. Colonial Drive, 407-384-4455; $ METRO ESPRESSO PIZZA CAFÉ Trusty takeout joint on the ground floor of the Post

Parkside building takes care of its Eola Heights neighbors with pizza and meatball subs, as well as the owner’s memorable lasagna and pasta dishes. 417 E. Central Blvd., 407-422-5282; $ NICK’S ITALIAN KITCHEN The room is so chic that you might think you’re in New York or Miami, and the food brings a new level of cool to old-school Italian. Arugula-heaped carpaccio is a dish to return for again and again, Marsala-style rib-eye is a work of art, and Nick’s grandmother’s famous meatballs are great, not just good. Our only disappointment? Pasta’s not made in-house. But excellent service and blissful desserts will drown any nitpicking. 100 S. Eola Drive, 407-7810724; $$$ N.Y.P.D. PIZZA & DELICATESSEN Multiple-year “Best of Orlando” winner for pizza, N.Y.P.D. also serves up a variety of pizzeria staples, from chicken parmigiana to sausage-and-pepper heroes. Baked pastas are extra-cheesy-good. 2589 S. Hiawassee Road, 407-293-8880; 2912 Edgewater Drive, 407-422-6973; $ PANINO’S PIZZA AND GRILL Open until 5 a.m., Panino’s is one of the few choices in Orlando for late-late-night grub, a perk for a city with night life but little to no night food. With more than 14 by-the-slice variations and many others available in whole-pie form, there’s a pizza for every preference; wings are gloriously hot, slightly crispy, garlicky and doused with hot sauce. 21 S. Orange Ave., 407-999-7701; $ PARK AVE. PIZZA & ITALIAN RESTAURANT In this no-frills place, the delivery guy might double as your server. But the pizzas, sold by the slice or the pie, are outstanding, with dough hand-tossed before your eyes. Skip the appetizers and salads, but try the baked ziti, in a tangy sauce mixed with plenty of ricotta and mozzarella. 119 E. Lyman Ave., Winter Park, 407-599-9199; $$ PASTAMORE Energetic Italian is surprisingly original for a themepark restaurant. The menu puts an emphasis on fresh ingredients and smartly offers dishes as small, large or family-style – try the sausage gnocchi in spicy marinara. Service is enthusiastic but erratic. Universal’s CityWalk, 6000 Universal Studios Blvd., 407-363-8000; $$ PEPPINO’S RISTORANTE ITALIANO There’s nothing remotely trendy about this Italian standby, but if you want traditional fare in a familiar atmosphere, it fills the ticket nicely. The pizzas have perfect crusts, with toppings so fresh they make your mouth tingle. 100 Carrigan Ave., Oviedo, 407365-4774; $$ PIATTINI PIZZERIA & CAFÉ Priced for worker bees, this West Church Street addition offers plenty of possibilities. Pastas, panini and salads cost under $9, and pizzas range from the usuals to specialties like the “pollo pesto.” Leave room for desserts like chocolate ganache cheesecake. 595 W. Church St., 407-419-3773.

PIZZA XTREME On the fringes of the tourist sector lies this hardto-find gem that dishes out some damn decent pie. The sauce is made from scratch, the dough is handstretched and tossed, and toppings are cut fresh, resulting in the quintessence of pizza. Stick to the circular pies for better consistency and flavor, and if you’re pinching pennies, there are plenty of specials. 7250 S. Kirkman Road, 407-226-3333; $

STEFANO’S TRATTORIA Stefano LaCommare’s unique brand of gregarious affability and made-from-scratch Italian specialties has drawn a loyal following to his eponymous trattoria in Winter Springs, just as it did previously in Winter Park and downtown Orlando. The place gets packed so expect lengthy waits and service miscues, though any indiscretions are forgotten after the first bite. 1425 Tuskawilla Road, Unit 205, Winter Springs, 407-659-0101; $$$

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PIZZERIA VALDIANO The smells will have you drooling at the front door of this casual hangout serving the basics, along with specialties like pizza gamberetti (shrimp, oil and garlic), Fiorentina (spinach and artichoke) and Valdiano (sausage, pepperoni, meatballs and veggies). The crust is bread-like and crisp at the same time. 510 N. Orlando Ave., Winter Park, 407-628-5333; 421 N.Alafaya Trail, 407-249-0131; 9101 International Drive, 407-903-5855; $

Photo by Aldrin Capulong

PORTOBELLO TRATTORIA With a new look and revamped menu (courtesy Top Chef Tony Mantuano), Portobello is worth considering making the drive down the interstate. Portobello mushroom served over rosemary-gorgonzola polenta is a memorable starter, and perfectly al dente bucatini punched up with guanciale is pasta done right. To end, take a chance on the biramisu, a beerbased liquid variant of the traditional Italian dessert. Downtown Disney, 1650 Buena Vista Drive, Lake Buena Vista, 407-934-8888; $$$ PRATO You’ll battle crowds to get a seat at Brandon McGlamery’s Park Avenue “it spot,” but once inside, the rustic Italian creations of chef Matthew Cargo will justify the body-checking. Start with house-cured bresaola and meatballs lolling in cipollini-sweetened sauce, then indulge in Bolognese bigoli richened with foie gras butter, or simple oven-roasted yellowtail snapper. Chocolate-mint budino and perfect tiramisu are right-proper endings. Reservations highly recommended. Valet parking. 124 N. Park Ave., Winter Park, 407-262-0050; $$

TERRAMIA WINEBAR TRATTORIA A wonderfully varied antipasto that seems to go on forever is your introduction to the beautiful excess practiced at Rosario Spagnolo’s latest hot spot. The aura of luxury extends to tasty entrees and desserts served by a wait staff whose attentiveness borders on the absurd. 1185 S. Spring Center Blvd., Altamonte Springs, 407-774-8466; $$

RAVALIA’S PASTA BAR It’s hard to say “basta” to the pasta when you can get a heaping plate of house-made cavatelli with zesty sauce and a garlic breadstick for less than $5. Six house-made pastas and six sauces allow for plenty of mixing and matching, but don’t overlook the Tuscan rotisserie items and the grinder sandwiches. With all this and gelato too, you may need to break out the fat pants. 3950 Highway 17-92, Casselberry, 407-571-9912; $ ROSSI’S Well-loved by spaghetti junkies for nearly 34 years, this south-side dive makes up for its less-than-fancy interior and casual service with hefty, home-style dinners at outrageously low prices. 5919 S. Orange Blossom Trail, 407-855-5755; $

ROCCO’S ITALIAN GRILLE A polished yet comfortable interior and a range of regional Italian fare is sure to delight discriminating diners with such singularly pleasing dishes as the lombata di vitello alla Milanese, golden-crisp veal Milanese and the frutti di mare. Even simple herbgrilled chicken is impeccably prepared, and desserts, such as creamy tiramisu and dense, milky gelato, are heavenly. 400 S. Orlando Ave., Winter Park, 407644-7770; $$$$ SOPRANO’S RISTORANTE & PIZZERIA Family-style joint serves Italian traditionals of the parmigiana, scaloppine and marsala varieties, as well as upscale entries like salmon carpaccio – thin shavings of smoked salmon with capers, onions and diced tomatoes, drizzled with olive oil. At the pizza ovens, the hot boxes are moved out at the pace of a mad ballet. 3990 Curry Ford Road, 407-895-9334; $$

TOLLA’S Pushed to the outer edges of the hub of gentrification that’s taking over west Winter Park, this cramped Italian deli and café looks out of place and lacks character on the culinary front. The patio area, full bar and live music are mostly what it has to offer. 240 N. Pennsylvania Ave., Winter Park, 407-6280068; $$ TOMASINO’S A New York-style pizzeria with a heavy Cosa Nostra theme, Tomasino’s wants to welcome you to the family while simultaneously making you an offer you can’t refuse. (Like anyone can refuse pizza? It’s not a hard sell.) Their 18-inch XL pie is the biggest in town; the irresistible Don Tomasino, bianca pizza topped with breaded eggplant, has the potential to make your pants the biggest in town. 2612 E. Colonial Drive, 407-898-7499; $ TOSCANA Treading the line between Italian home cooking and outrageously upscale, Toscana blends an intimate atmosphere and courteous service with fairly priced dishes. Seafood entrees are a high point, along with

a generous selection of steaks. 13001 Avalon Park East Blvd., 407-382-9620; $$$ TRATTORIA TOSCANA Park Avenue trattoria may not be truly Tuscan, but they do offer good, straightforward Italian fare. Very fresh salmon carpaccio is as much a must as a glass of chianti. For mains, consider a thin-crust pizza or an ultimately rewarding dish of gnocchi alla Sorrentina. Service is impeccable. 521 S. Park Ave., Winter Park, 407-644-0009; $$

AMURA SUSHI BAR & JAPANESE RESTAURANT A much-awaited renovation gives an updated look and feel to this downtown establishment hidden away on Church Street. Blissfully undiminished is the quality of the food – seaweed salad that crunches just right and sushi so fresh it needs no adornment (though the elaborate rolls are delicious). 54 W. Church St., 407-316-8500; 7786 W. Sand Lake Road, 407-370-0007; 950 Market Promenade Plaza, Lake Mary, 407-936-6001; $$

HANA SUSHI The Renaissance Shopping Center, where Hana Sushi is located, might be half-empty, but the restaurant’s sushi bar gets remarkably full. The menu features many specialty rolls and plenty of cooked items. It may not be the best Japanese food in town, but dinners are big and the attitude is comfy. 397 E. Altamonte Drive, Altamonte Springs, 407-8309233; $$ HANAMIZUKI JAPANESE RESTAURANT Deceptively situated in a bland I-Drive strip mall, this expensive, elegant sushi restaurant combines minimalist decor with a menu of surprising depth and intrigue to create a flawlessly integrated and refreshing experience. It sounds too simple to notice, but make a point of trying the fried rice with slivered ginger. One of the only places in Orlando to experience true Japanese ramen, and the only we know of, period, that serves the shio butter variety. 8255 International Drive, 407-363-7200; $$$ KIMONOS Elegance defines this small enclave that best accommodates tables for two. Smart and spare defines the menu, with sushi preparations such as the spider roll, with pieces of fried soft-shell crab, and the Kimonos roll, richly flavored by pale pink yellowtail tuna. Toward the end of the night, the atmosphere changes as conventioneers flow in for karaoke. Walt Disney World Swan Hotel, 1200 Epcot Resorts Blvd., Lake Buena Vista, 407-934-1609; $$$

menu make this the perfect spot for a girls’ night out. 621 E. Central Blvd., 407-420-9420; $$$ SHIN JAPANESE CUISINE Selections at this urbane sushi house reflect a commitment to sourcing and artistry without belying tradition. Any of the chef’s presentations offer a rewarding sampling for those who enjoy their sushi relatively unadulterated, while a number of signature and maki rolls are also offered. Beef tataki is wonderful to the last raw slice. 803 N. Orange Ave., 407-648-8000; $$$ SUSHI LOLA’S Traditional sushi meshed with huge American sandwiches – it’s an unusual fusion, but it works. Sushi rolls, ramen and bento boxes play nice with chicken salad and the like. Standouts: the “Magic” roll, served aflame, and the Korean bulgogi cheesesteak sandwich. Sake flights are a fun touch. 2806 Corrine Drive, 407-898-5652 ; $ SUSHI POP Don’t let the fuchsia hues and J-pop-themed decor fool you – Sushi Pop takes its fare seriously. Stellar sushi and sashimi complement a variety of rolls, entrees and whimsical desserts flourished with notes of molecular gastronomy (blue cheese powder or liquid nitrogen, anyone?). Sake fans have the privilege of consulting an in-house expert. Closed Mondays. 310 W. Mitchell Hammock Road, Oviedo, 407-542-5975; $$$

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BAYRIDGE SUSHI A long way from its ex-home in Brooklyn and a long way from downtown Orlando, but a pleasing place for exquisite-quality sushi, with a slightly expensive but convenient single-piece “a la carte” menu to sample the art of the chef. 1000 W. SR 434, Longwood, 407-331-0000; 2189 E. Semoran Blvd., 407-8899999; $$ BENTO CAFÉ Sushi and noodles are all the rage at this cool lunch spot. Handsomely presented “torch rolls” with conch, scallops, salmon, tuna and sriracha are luscious, while spicy red tobiko proffer a proper pop. Bento boxes run the gamut and a bonanza of boba awaits tea-totalers. 151 S. Orange Ave., 407-999-8989; 7335 W. Sand Lake Road, 407-352-2277.$? BIKKURI SUSHI Specializing in reasonably priced variety trays of fresh, well-cut sushi (they’ve got a regular menu of Japanese cuisine as well), Bikkuri proves that it’s possible to make to-go sushi without resorting to the rubbery “fish” they tend to use at the supermarket. In addition to an extensive selection of rolls, upstairs is a mini izakaya of noodles, colorful cocktails, and sake. 1915 E. Colonial Drive, 407-894-4494; $$ DRAGONFLY MODERN IZAKAYA & SUSHI Dressed to impress, this posh spot’s menu is a swarm of small plates. From spectacular sashimi to sublime grilled meats (try the short ribs and yellowtail collar), it’s hard to pick a dish that misses. Consider a swig from their modest sake menu and end with a simple scoop of red-bean ice cream. 7972 Via Dellagio Way, 407-370-3359; $$

GIZMO SUSHI Gizmo makes a wide variety of well-constructed rolls. The location doesn’t justify the prices, but the food does, and the Korean ownership of the restaurant means some atypical selections. A decent selection of noodles, rice bowls and grilled dishes rounds out the menu. A comfortable hang, conveniently located next door to A Comic Shop. 110 S. Semoran Blvd., Winter Park, 407-677-5800; $$

BEEWON KOREAN CUISINE Unassuming Dr. Phillips eatery masters Korean cookery with a host of stews, noodles and barbecued offerings. Revel in the splendor of bibimbap, a delectable mélange served in a hot stone pot; luxuriate in the heady fumes of table-grilled bulgogi; and savor every salty bite of grilled mackerel. Seriously consider concluding with two scoops of red-bean ice cream. 5100 Dr. Phillips Blvd., 407-601-7788; $$ KOREA HOUSE The first Korean restaurant in the area remains one of the few outlets for a taste of the Land of the Morning Sun. Abundantly sized dishes are based on the flavors of garlic, ginger, soy and hot pepper, like bulgogi beef marinated in sweet garlic sauce. Eleven side items are included with each meal, including the cornerstone kimchi. 1155 W. SR 434, Longwood, 407-767-5918; $ SEOUL GARDENS Faces may wrinkle after a bite of pickled radish and tongues might burn after tearing into tangles of fiery kimchi; nostrils will flare at the peppery blast of the spicy fish broth with clams and tofu. The heat in the kimchi pancake won’t offer much relief, but rice dishes temper the spice, as does refreshing cinnamon tea. 511 E. Horatio Ave., Maitland, 407599-5199; $$ SHIN JUNG At this tiny place with no-frills decor but exotic Korean cuisine, a 10-item barbecue list offers stalwart diners authentic choices such as unmarinated beef tongue. The less skittish might try hawe nang myun, a cold noodle dish served with hot-spiced stingray. Let the servers steer you. 1638 E. Colonial Drive, 407-895-7345; $$

NAGOYA SUSHI Tucked away in a MetroWest shopping center, Nagoya Sushi offers creative interpretations of classic Japanese dishes. The brothers Lu make an art of molding rice, slicing paper-thin fish and building wonderful rolls from a wide variety of tastes and colors, while the hot dishes from the kitchen are as good as any. 7600 Dr. Phillips Blvd., 407-248-8558; $$

SUSHITOMI Unassuming joint is a hidden gem for the city’s sushi cognoscenti, thanks to chef Hidehiko’s exceptional skills. Colorful sunshine rolls, artistic samurai rolls and wonderfully fatty toro nigiri will have sushi fiends coming back for more. Leaving with the essence of red-bean ice cream in your mouth is the way to go. 8463 S. John Young Parkway, 407-352-8635; $$

RANGETSU The new RanGetsu in Maitland eschews tradition in favor of J-pop glam and sexy digs, but there are culinary brains behind the beauty. Superbly fresh sashimi is but one of the many highlights from the sushi bar, and robata items like wagyu kobe beef skewers and shishito peppers wow. Traditionalists will enjoy the shabu-shabu. 901 S. Orlando Ave., Maitland, 407-345-0044; $$$

SUSHIOLOGY Save dollars by eating cheap but respectable rolls at this I-Drive hole in the wall where nothing is more than $6.50, from the crunchy California rolls to the messy volcano variety. The store is set up for takeout and delivery; there are a few tables for eating in, but don’t. Grab and go. That’s the beauty. 8249 Vineland Ave., 407-239-4920; 6400 International Drive, 407-345-0245; $

SEITO SUSHI Immaculate and stylish, this Japanese restaurant is a welcome addition to the sushi scene. The menu is brief and offers all the usual suspects – sushi, sashimi, teriyaki and tempura. Every dish is carefully prepared and gracefully presented. 4898 New Broad St.; 407-898-8801; 8031 Turkey Lake Road, 407248-8888; $$

WAZZABI SUSHI From a bland side street, this oasis of taste beckons with unique decor and ambience. The menu follows suit, with exceptional sushi, teppanyaki and steak. (The cherry blossom filet is a tender delight.) Each choice of seating and dishes will yield a different experience – but all should end with tempura cheesecake. 1408 Gay Road, Winter Park, 407-6478744; $$$

SHARI SUSHI LOUNGE Happening Thornton Park sushi spot adds Eastern flavor with this cosmopolitan pearl. Superbly inventive sushi rolls like the Romeo & Juliet and the Beauty & the Beast alongside an extensive cocktail

YAE SUSHI This older, more established restaurant doesn’t raise the sushi bar very high. But Yae has lots and lots of rolls, more than you might find in any two other

8-8 PANDA Neighborhood takeout joint specializes in chifa, a niche cuisine of Peruvian-style Chinese fare that draws a loyal patronage of Latin Americans and expat Limeños. They come for the chaufa, lomo saltado and comforting soups, but those new to the culinary movement will find the roast duck and roast pork dishes gratifying. Open daily. 500 E. Semoran Blvd., Casselberry, 321-207-0388; $ AMAZONAS LATIN GRILL Meals at this Venezuelan eatery never fail to impress. Most remarkable is how cheap everything is, which may also explain the long line that forms in front of the steam tables at noon. Shredded pork, chicken and beef dishes are always popular, but if you’re willing to wait an extra five minutes, the churrasco is well worth it. 8273 S. John Young Parkway, 407903-9535; $ AREPAS AND MORE Hole in the wall serves arepas of every stripe, but it’s also home to a varied menu with influences from Venezuela to Colombia. Arepas come in every flavor from plain cheese to tunafish. There’s a $2 special every day, everything has that cooked-by-Mama taste, and regulars from the botanica next door wander in and out. 207 N. Bumby Ave., 407-894-5262; $

Photo by Aldrin Capulong

FUJI SUSHI Simple, subdued and tasteful setting to enjoy some of the most sumptuous sushi in the area. Named after local points of interest, items include the prepared with soft-shell crab. The famous “dynamite” and “dancing eel” rolls are both here, as well as more recent additions like the “candy cane” roll with red and white tuna, the “polar bear” roll with buttery salmon, white tuna, cream cheese and tempura crumbs, and “Orlando Magic roll” with soft-shell crab. They pay attention to detail, and it shows. 1449 Lee Road, Winter Park, 407-645-1299; $$

places combined. Some are exotic – those named for sports teams include the “Gator” roll, with tempura gator tail – but there are enough that even the sushiwary will find something to like. 2050 SR 436, Winter Park, 407-677-1088; $$

BRAZAS CHICKEN Full-service Edgewood polleria specializes in succulent Peruvian-style rotisserie chicken, marinated in a secret blend of paprika, cumin, lemon and vinegar and other seasonings. A whole chicken comes cheap and goes well with sweet plantains, avocado salad and papas huancaina. The dulce de leche-layered alfajore is a sugary chew, but one won’t be enough. 4797 S. Orange Ave., 407-582-0506; $ CHOO CHOO CHURROS From empanadas to authentic open-grilled steaks, this is a good but unpretentious Argentine steak house in the shadow of the East-West Expressway. Order a delicious mixed-meat grill from parts of the beast that some people, even carnivores, would rather not think about. Chicken and fish dishes are first-rate as well. 5810 Lake Underhill Road, 407382-6001; $$ COLUMBIA RESTAURANT Celebration outpost of the world-renowned restaurant isn’t perfect, but it’s worth a visit. A lakeside setting provides the backdrop for a host of traditional Spanish and Cuban fare. The famous “1905” salad is largely forgettable – try the croquetas, empanadas or gazpacho instead. The surf and turf is a can’t-miss dish, and snapper alicante is marvelous. 649 Front St., Celebration, 407-566-1505; $$$$ THE NOU Made-from-scratch dishes give Altamonte diners plenty of reason to pay a visit to this Venezuelan eatery. A refreshingly simple urbanity provides the backdrop for such traditional dishes as pabellón criollo (think ropa vieja), hearty sancocho soup, crisp empanadas and, of course, arepas. Try the reina pepiada – it’s a wonderful mess. Open daily. 1156 W. SR 436, Altamonte Springs, 407-865-6106; $ EL REY DE LA PAPA It’s a meat-and-potatoes affair at this humble outpost. Rustic rib soup is outstandingly hearty; empanadas de carne, delightfully crunchy; and baked potatoes prodigiously weighty. Exotic fruit smoothies and milky tres leches cake break the tuber-and-beef

pattern. 1201 Winter Garden Vineland Road, Winter Garden, 407-656-0700; $$ JUNIOR COLOMBIAN BURGER Weighty, messy, exotic burgers draw a diverse patronage to this cramped Kirkman Road joint. Hot dogs, beef skewers, arepas and other South American fare are offered, but it’s the burgers – hand-formed patties piled high with lettuce, tomato, white cheese, onion, and a mix of potato chips, pineapple sauce, pink sauce and Garcia’s delectable secret garlic sauce – that rule. Open until 3:30 a.m. Sunday through Thursday and 4:30 a.m. Friday and Saturday. 5389 S. Kirkman Road, 407-745-9216; $ LA CASA DE LAS PAELLAS Seafood is actually most prominent on the vast menu, but paella fiends can choose from seven variations. Paella marinera teems with fish and shellfish, but we lamented the lack of the characteristic bottom crust. Make it a point to start with crunchy, juicy chicharrones de pollo. Closed Mondays. 10414 E. Colonial Drive, 407-736-9880; $$ LA GRANJA Call it Latin American comfort food or call it a carbohydrate curse: Spicy beef, chicken and pork are accompanied by hefty helpings of rice, beans and french fries. The meat’s the star of the meal; skip the bland sides. 490 N. Semoran Blvd., Winter Park, 407-677-0001; $ LATIN QUARTER A Universal-sized tribute to Latin food and drink, offering guacamole made to order right at your table. Live music – from merengue to Latin rock – nightly. Universal’s CityWalk, 6000 Universal Blvd., 407224-2806; $$ LOS PORTALES It’s not much to look at and the service can be a few time zones too slow, but the comida at Los Portales in Casselberry is muy delicioso. It’s obvious the proprietors love this place, and it shows on the plate – try the pulpo salad, the meaty chunks of octopus served ceviche-style. Don’t miss the freshly

fried tostones or crisp potato-and-pork-stuffed empanadas. 1436 N. Semoran Blvd., Casselberry, 407-681-4000; $$ OH! QUE BUENO A small Colombian café that specializes in protein: meat, chicken, sausages, seafood. And unless you count rice, corn and red beans, not a veggie in the place. The carneteria offers authentic traditional dishes done well, as well as enormous combination plates of beef, pork, sausage and the occasional egg. 1125 S. Semoran Blvd., 407-447-5026; $ PARADISO 37 Boisterous restaurant serves up “street food from the Americas.” With a menu that’s safe for most palates, there’s something here for everyone except those looking for serious adventure. The towering display of tequila bottles will mesmerize margarita lovers. 1590 E. Buena Vista Drive, 407-934-3702; $$$ POLLO PIO PIO This thrifty stronghold for exquisite rotisserie chicken relies on secret family recipes from Colombia and Peru. The real secret is that when it comes to the simple menu – from beans and rice, to tostones and empanadas, to worship-worthy garlic and jalapenohabanero sauces – it’s all good. Don’t skip the flawless flan and tres leches cake. 5752 International Drive, 407-248-6424; $ POLLOS A LA BRASA MIS AMORES Tiny Florida Mall-area polleria specializes in churning out Peruvian-style rotisserie chicken, but don’t overlook the ceviche or the simple and hearty lomo saltado, a Chinese-Peruvian delicacy. If they’ve got empanadas, don’t hesitate – they sell out fast. Desserts are worthy, especially dulce de leche-laced torta chocolate. 1355 Florida Mall Ave., 407-8560583; $$ Q’KENAN Among the timeshares and hotels on the southern end of I-Drive, this unusual family Venezuelan joint peeks out of the overwhelming fast-food dining scene. It’s part restaurant and part grocery store and

there’s not much ambience, but the authentic arepas, empanadas and cachapas are top-rate. Try the mixed mountain grill (parrilla tepui mixta) for a heartier entree. 8117 Vineland Ave., 407-238-0014; $

TAKO CHEENA An eclectic offering of tacos and burritos made with mostly Asian (but also Indian and African) ingredients sets this taqueria apart from the rest – that, and the really loud ’80s soundtrack. Empanadas are a must to start, then dive right into the sublime panko-crusted cod taco. Burritos are substantial, and the sauces – especially habanero-jackfruit and sweet chili with smoked ghost pepper – are tantalizing. 932 N. Mills Ave., 321-236-7457; $

ADOBE GILA’S The fish tacos are a favorite at this fresh Mexican fun spot, but all the usual suspects are present and accounted for: quesadillas, burritos, wings, burgers. Get loose with a maragarita or three – the party atmosphere is undeniable, whether you’re on spring break or just your lunch break. Pointe Orlando, 9101 International Drive, 407-903-1477; $$

AGAVE AZUL A cool blue interior belies the spicy fare served at this trendy taqueria. With 100 brands on hand, tequila is the aperitif of choice, but all good drinks lead to food, and the Tex-Mex dishes served here are done right. Chunky guacamole, the plato grande (a hungry man’s dish of skirt steak, picadillo enchilada and a superb chicken tamale slathered in mole), and the pastel de piña are all recommended, as are reservations. 4750 S. Kirkman Road, 407-704-6930; $$ BAJA BURRITO KITCHEN Freshness is without question at this fast, healthy chain. Soft tacos are stuffed with fish, burritos are packed with grilled meats, and beans are stewed, not refried. The popular “Baja burrito” – grilled steak, black beans, onions, cilantro and cheese – is a meal in itself. 2716 E. Colonial Drive, 407-895-6112; $ BETO’S If you’re looking for good, unusual Mexican food in very large portions at 3 a.m., Beto’s is the place, serving huge portions, shredded steak instead of ground beef and roasted chicken rather than pale imitations. This ain’t no quicky drive-through, but you can’t tell from the prices. 7135 S. Orange Blossom Trail, 407-859-7030; $ CALIFORNIA BURRITO EXPRESS Your drunken prayers for a 24-hour downtown Mexican joint have been heard, and answered more than adequately by this colossal menu of deals (most items are under $5). The California burrito stands out with a mix of carne asada, crispy potatoes and bell peppers; a pair of fish tacos and a horchata makes for a classic SoCal taco stand experience. 3922 E. Colonial Drive, 407-894-8250; $

apart from the rest but, hey, it’s still Tex-Mex. Meats are certified humanely raised, making Lime a boon for diners with a conscience. Standouts include the Philly-Mex fusion steak ’n’ cheese taco and the Big Cali burrito; be wary of over-sauced grilled fish tacos. 8031 Turkey Lake Road, 407-370-3810; 500 N. Orlando Ave., Winter Park, 321-207-0661, $ MARGARITA’S GRILL All the standards are here: chimichangas, burritos, tacos and enchiladas. But you’ll discover a sophisticated Central Mexican spin, thanks to a trio of partners from Mexico City. Try skillfully prepared offerings such as mahi-mahi blackened with chilis or mole poblano, chicken slowly simmered in 20 Mexican spices. 3891 Avalon Park East Blvd., 407380-1452; $ Mexican. MARIA BONITA Authentic cuisine from the Sierra Madre mountains is the highlight at this Mexican eatery. Fresh ingredients, attention from the kitchen and simple but flavorful dishes create a menu where everything is worth a taste. Cuban and vegetarian specialties round out the selections. 10615 E. Colonial Drive, 407-282-1411; $$ MOE’S SOUTHWEST GRILL Moe’s boasts of using fresh ingredients to build tacos, burritos and fajitas that unfortunately are

libation, which run pretty stiff (even the sangria goes heavy on the triple sec). Best day to visit? Wednesdays, when tacos run a buck-fiddy all day long. 4892 S. Kirkman Road, 407-574-6474; $ TACOS EL RANCHO Neighborhood taqueria offers the established canon of Tex-Mex staples – burritos, enchiladas, quesadillas and tacos – and does them right. Luscious beef tongue tacos cater to adventurous diners, while tacos al pastor offer a taste of Mexico City. Beware enormous chimichangas and burritos – they’re big on flavor and on weight. 4433 Hoffner Ave., 407-4388777; 2194 S. Chickasaw Trail, 407-482-8545 $ TIJUANA FLATS BURRITO COMPANY What started in 1995 has grown into a handful of walk-in burrito stands that serve up favorites made with a limited set of ingredients. The highlight is the chain’s own line of pepper sauces, called everything from “Smack My Ass” to “Great Bowels of Fire.” Filling, tasty and cheap. Go to www.tijuanaflats.com for multiple locations; $ WALL STREET CANTINA The slightly funky location at Orange Avenue and Wall Street rescues this streetside eatery from too-calculated hipness. Basic Tex-Mex fried favorites are heaped with pico de gallo, guacamole and sour cream and are absolutely delicious. Salads and grilled

Pine 22 • page 18

Photo by Jason Greene

GARIBALDI’S MEXICAN RESTAURANT A place for genuine Mexican food (along with some authentic folk songs). There are more than 30 different combination platters of tacos, burritos and enchiladas, along with chiles rellenos and chalupas. The “fajitas Garibaldi” adds chorizo sausage to a combination of chicken and beef on a sizzling iron pan. 929 N. Semoran Blvd., 407-275-5035; $$ GRINGOS LOCOS Downtown taqueria is a boon for late-night revelers offering standard tacos, burritos, chimis and quesadillas. The sizable girth of the chimi and “1 Night Slam” burrito make them ideal alcohol sponges, and crisp, flaky empanadas are great grab-and-go items. Skip bland guacamole and overdone fish tacos. Open until 3 a.m.; closed Sundays. 20 E. Washington St., 407-841-5626; $ LIME FRESH MEXICAN GRILL Healthy, humane Tex-Mex fare sets this taqueria

FALAFEL CAFÉ The humble chickpea takes on hearty new dimensions when it’s served up at Falafel Café, across from the University of Central Florida. If you’re in the mood for rustic Middle Eastern cooking, you’ll find it, from crispy falafel and kibbeh to creamy hummus and baba ghanoush. 12140 Collegiate Way, 407-382-6600; $ HABIBI FINE LEBANESE CUISINE Neighborly MetroWest eatery delivers the goods for pita enthusiasts and kebabophiles alike. The meataverse can delight in the vegetarian platter (with smoky baba ganoush and lemony grape leaves), but the seasoned sirloin shawarma, fried kibbeh and succulent kebabs provoke prolonged mm-mmms. Limited seating inside. 2451 S. Hiawassee Road, 407-802-4242; $$

MARAYA AT SABRINA’S RESTAURANT As its many devoted fans know, one of the priciest restaurants on the Trail is worth a visit for the fastidiously prepared Mediterranean fare alone. Succulent rack of lamb, rustic chicken soup and a cross-section of Lebanese staples highlight the offerings. 8100 Crystal Clear Lane, 407-856-8155; $$$

CHICO’S DIRTY TACOS & TEQUILA Chico’s combines the best of both worlds – fresh Mexican fare with a twist and a very serious commitment to tequila, with 244 different shots on offer. More than just a bar, though, the inventive menu will keep foodies occupied on multiple visits. 50 E. Central Blvd., 407-422-6299; $$

COLIBRI Upscale Baldwin Park taqueria has honed its act in the kitchen, but still needs work on the service end. The mole is bueno, as is luscious chipotle peppercream sauce lathered over plump shrimp. Tres leches cake is a decadent capper. 4963 New Broad St., 407-629-6601; $$

CEDAR’S RESTAURANT Their spin on traditional Lebanese food is a lightness of texture and flavor that is both refreshing and inviting. Use the hot, puffy pitas to scoop up baba ghanoush, a smooth roasted eggplant and garlic puree with a wonderfully smoky taste. 7732 W. Sand Lake Road, 407-351-6000; $$$

HUMMUS HOUSE The UCF area’s latest pita joint is a welcome option for both omnivores looking for fresh, unprocessed food and vegetarians craving more than just tofu or lettuce. With six flavors of house-made hummus, chicken marinated overnight in a Mediterranean spice blend, and unbelievably delicious fried pita chips, the pitas at that other place might seem like the pits. 11565 University Blvd., 407-282-7482; $

CANTINA LAREDO Tex-Mex food gets the Dr. Phillips treatment with higher-quality fare at higher prices. Guac prepared tableside is a must; meat-lovers will savor velvety tender carne asada, while vegetarians can get their fill of vibrant spinach enchiladas. Beware tighter waistbands after indulging in filling desserts. 8000 Via Dellagio Way, 407-345-0186; $

COCINA 214 Haute-Texican cuisine with Portuguese flourishes gives cause to visit this industrial-chic Park Avenuearea resto. From shrimp piri-piri to pollo pibil to duck confit tacos, chef Chico employs traditional and contemporary methods to skillfully render his dishes. If ordering Mexican doughnuts, it’s possible you may get lemony Portuguese malassadas instead, sans cinnamon. 151 E. Welbourne Ave., Winter Park, 407-790-7997; $$

of whom come for the all-halal menu and cut-rate prices. Don’t pass up the amazing hummus, though fat kibbeh make worthy starters too. Spit-fired shawarmas and gyros keep the college set content, and meaty platters offer more bang for your buck. End with Turkish coffee and baklava fragrant with orange-blossom water. Closed Sundays. 12100 E. Colonial Dr., 407-381-8004; $

difficult to tell apart. Quesadillas are the best thing on the menu, but everything else is a blur of cold cheese, beans and lettuce wrapped in a tortilla. 847 S. Orlando Ave., Winter Park, 321-972-2996; 7541D W. Sand Lake Road, 407-264-9903; $$

sandwiches round out the offerings. 19 N. Orange Ave., 407-420-1515; $

MUCHO TEQUILA AND TACOS An urban mix of diners partakes in the first-rate Tex-Mex fare: the standard tacos, burritos, chimis and fajitas all pass muster. Finish the trio of deep-fried habañeros, injected with Dead Heat hot sauce for good measure, and you get a T-shirt. Thankfully, 101 agave-based palliatives (read: tequila) lie in wait. 101 S. Eola Drive, 407-843-9676; $ PAXIA ALTA COCINA MEXICANA College Park spot leads the charge to bring worthy Mexican cuisine to this city. Tangy cactus stems highlight the nopalitos salad; chipotle lends black bean soup an understated bite; and mole poblano and char-grilled skirt steak are worthy of signature-dish status. Weekend brunch is stellar. 2611 Edgewater Drive, College Park, 407-420-1155; $$ P.R.’S TACO PALACE Typical Tex-Mex fare plus specialties like blackened shrimp fajitas served amid pinatas, beer banners and boozy graffiti. When a train rumbles by, tequila shots sell for $1.75. 499 W. Fairbanks Ave., Winter Park, 407-645-2225; $$ SLOPPY TACO PALACE STP’s signature sloppy taco basket is drinking food at its finest; texture-perfect corn dogs and tater tots are State-Fair-worthy, and also best enjoyed with a

ALI BABA An oasis of tantalizing flavors. Ali Baba’s Persian entrees include a variety of shish kebabs along with more familiar Greek and Middle Eastern dishes. A buffet is offered at both lunch and dinner, with an especially exotic array on Sundays. 1155 W. SR 434, Longwood, 407-331-8680; $ CAFÉ ANNIE Long-term favorite of downtown office workers craving a little Middle Eastern flavor, Café Annie is now open nights as well. It’s an ideal stop after happy hour; crispy falafel and creamy hummus won’t give you morning-after regret the way a greasy slice will. 131 N. Orange Ave., 407-420-4041; $

MEDITERRANEAN DELI An oasis of authenticity, complete with odd decorations, exhilaratingly exotic smells and hearty but inexpensive meals. You’ll find perfect hummus, superior kibbeh and superb gyros, not to mention one of the best spinach pies around. A top spot to eat for $10 or less. 981 W. Fairbanks Ave., 407-539-2650; $ PASHA TAVERNA AND LOUNGE Spot-on Moroccan staples finally get their Millenia moment. Pasha’s seductive atmo should play right into the Conroy Road crowd’s tastes, not to mention the full bar, live music and belly dancing. But the food, from nourishing harira soup to lamb tagine to flaky pastilla, is the real attraction. Moroccan mint tea is a must, as is the creamy “Pasha delight.” Open daily. 4104 Millenia Blvd., 407-730-3222; $$$ SHIRAZ GRILL Filet mignon and chicken kebabs steal the show, but perfumed plates of barberry-jeweled pilaf with luxuriant Persian stews are also outstanding. A smoky starter of pureed aubergines drizzled with cream of whey is as dip-worthy as any hummus. Get closure with a glacial orb of syrupy sweet falooda. 6427 Westwood Blvd., 407-284-1273; $$ TONY’S DELI There are tables inside, but Tony’s is designed for easy, delicious takeout – perfect for lunch and handy for a cheap, healthy dinner. All the usual suspects – baba ghanoush, hummus, tabouli – as well as pickled beets, fava beans, fatoosh and more can be packed into 8-, 16- or 32-ounce packages. Don’t forget sweet pistachio baklava for dessert. 1323 N. Mills Ave., 407-898-6689; $$

CEDAR HALAL FOOD & DELI UCF-area café-deli caters to a diverse clientele, many

from 37 “tossings” and 12 dressings, or choose from featured recipes, like the Greek-inspired Athena or the refreshingly sweet and delightfully nutty Daisy. 1300 N. Orange Ave., Winter Park, 407-647-3336; 201 S. Orange Ave., 407-826-1524; $

HAWKERS The sheer variety and low price point of the assorted dishes makes this small-plate spot a popular draw, but it’s better for snacking and drinking beer with a group than sitting down to a trad meal. The menu attempts to replicate the feel of a Singaporean streetfood market with an array of tiny, tasty Chinese, Malay, Viet and Indian dishes. The place packs ’em in, so call ahead or risk waiting. Open daily. 1103 N. Mills Ave., 407-237-0606; $

BEEFY KING A local legend with a dedicated following, this mighty little sandwich shop has survived for 35 years by doing it better than all the big players. Beefy King’s secret is simple quality. Delicious meats – roast beef, pastrami, turkey – are cooked daily and heated to order over a steam vent to bring out their natural flavors. 424 N. Bumby Ave., 407-894-2241; $

FAMOUS PHIL’S CHEESESTEAKS It’s all things Philadelphia at Phil’s, but the cheesesteaks don’t quite live up to that heritage; they’re good, not great. We can’t say the same about the hoagies or the side dishes, so follow the crowd and stick to the cheesesteaks. 7542 University Blvd., Winter Park, 407-677-8325; $

KAPPY’S SUBMARINE SANDWICHES Downscale landmark near the Enzian Theater dishes out ’50s-style classics: Philly cheesesteaks, onion rings, hot dogs and root-beer floats. There’s no carhop service these days, but there’s a sliver of counter space inside; hop up on a swiveling stool and stuff your face. 501 N. Orlando Ave., Maitland, 407-647-9099; $

GREEN DAY CAFÉ Weighing more on the healthy than the strictly vegetarian side, Green Day is nevertheless quite veggie-friendly. Patrons can opt to “global-warm” chicken, turkey, tuna or veg wraps on a grill, or make them “green” by leaving out the sauce and cheese. A side of broccoli crunch, flecked with sunflower seeds and subtly sweetened with raisins, nearly upstages the wraps. 1515 Lee Road, 407-704-7877; $

LASPADA’S ORIGINAL CHEESE STEAKS & HOAGIES The 6-inch steak supreme is a seasoned cheesy mess worth grabbing a fork for; on the cold side, “LaSpada’s famous” hoagie is a superlatively salty stack of five different meats. Kitschy decor (Rocky posters, Phillies memorabilia) doesn’t make a great sandwich, but it helps while you wait for one. 1010 Lee Road, 407-539-0067; $

GREENS AND GRILLE

POM POM’S TEAHOUSE & SANDWICHERIA Want interesting sandwiches (yellow curry chicken salad with toasted almonds, red apple and onion), unusual tea (raspberry-rose), killer desserts (lavender-peppercorn creme brulee), and a cheery atmosphere? Find it all here. Open 24 hours Friday and Saturday. 67 N. Bumby Ave., 407-894-0865; $

GNARLY BARLEY Tacos, salads, and sandwiches with an inventive twist (we need one of those roast beef-and-mac & cheese subs, like, right now) are sided with a crazy-long list of bottled beers – and a respectable 10 taps to boot. 7431 S. Orange Ave., 407-854-4999; $

OBLIVION TAPROOM One of the city’s better beer bars sits, unexpectedly, on a forgettable strip of Colonial Drive, with 40 beers on tap and more available by the bottle – but the meaty bar bites, inventive burgers especially, are what sets this place apart from the rest. Don’t overlook crisp battered-and-fried items or tots with house-made ketchup. Oddly enough, vegan and vegetarian options are plentiful. Closed Mondays. 5101 E. Colonial Drive, 407-802-4800; $$ SHIPYARD EMPORIUM An energetic, feel-good vibe (along with beer brewed and bread baked in-house) draws the masses to this restaurant-bar-bakery-market. Sandwiches don’t get any better than the pulled pot-roast and Harris Ranch burger. Skip the cloying barbecue chicken flatbread pizza and satisfy your sweet tooth with a mini-cupcake. Parking is limited. 200 W. Fairbanks Ave., Winter Park, 321-274-4045; $$

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BIKES BEANS & BORDEAUX Get your fill of killer sandwiches at this chic haven catering to the city’s cycling set. Chicken salad and caprese varieties get you in gear, while thick hummus with veggies keeps things rolling; Jittery Joe’s coffee provides a kick-start to the Nutella cupcake’s sugary finish. 3022 Corrine Drive, 407-427-1440; $ THE BISTRO ON PARK AVENUE Considering the prime Park Avenue location, it’s natural to expect something beyond the ordinary, but there’s nothing special here. If you’re looking for a decent selection of sandwiches and salads, along with a few choices of wine to help while away the time as you perch at a sidewalk table, you’ll do fine. 348 N. Park Ave., Winter Park, 407-539-6520; $$ BRIANTO’S ORIGINAL HOAGIES The lads at this sandwich joint bleed Phillies red, and it’s clear they have a passion for cheesesteaks and hoagies as well. Cheez Whiz is necessary to offset the slightly bland cheesesteak supreme, but the cheesesteak hoagie is well worth the drive to Avalon Park. The cold Liberty Bell hoagie is a meat-lover’s delight and goes well with other Philly staples like Herr’s chips, Hank’s birch beer and Tastykakes. 12001 Avalon Lake Drive, 407-382-2667; $ CHAMP’S DELI A phone-booth-sized establishment with Chef George serving his famous pulled-pork sandwiches. The cold-cut selection is pretty ordinary, but where else can you get a decent chicken-salad sandwich and a cup of soup for $3.95, or a hot breakfast sammich for a buck-fifty? 132 E. Central Blvd., 407649-1230; $ EDEN’S FRESH CO. A garden of leafy delights awaits salad lovers tired of Sweet Tomatoes. Create your own salad or wrap

The salads and sandwiches assembled here are luxurious versions of everyday basics. High standards of quality are apparent in the dressings made from scratch, super-fresh salad ingredients and natural, hormone-free meats grilled to order. Don’t miss the balsamic-braised portobello mushroom or the rich, gooey homemade macaroni and cheese; top off your meal with an adorable mini-cupcake. 4104 Millenia Blvd., 407-770-1407; 11325 University Blvd., 407-373-0123; $ ITALIAN BEEFSTRO It’s “da beef”: peppery, aromatic, thinly sliced roast beef piled thick on a steamed roll and doused with roasting juices until the bread is soggy with flavor. Classic Chicago dogs and Italian sausage complete the Wrigleyville vibe of the menu. 705 W. Colonial Drive, 407-601-7444; $ JASON’S DELI This chain deli may not conform to Delancey Street standards, but they know how to construct a sandwich; the reuben is a towering two-fister. Baked potatoes are gargantuan, but the well-stocked salad bar and selection of “healthy heart slimwiches” will appeal to the gym rats from next door. 2915 E. Colonial Drive, 407-898-9806; 303 E. Altamonte Drive, Altamonte Springs, 407-830-0699; $ JAVA LAVA This downtown stop subscribes to the more-is-more philosophy. Sandwiches and salads jostle flatbreads and Mexican faves (burritos, quesadillas) on the overstuffed lunch menu; breakfast offers an equally bounteous assortment of coffee drinks and egg dishes. 47 E. Robinson St., 407-770-1888; $$ JERSEY MIKE’S Another entry in the crowded subs-and-Phillies field, Jersey Mike’s is distinguished by having been at it

PRESS 101 Dr. Phillips café is equal parts quick-casual sandwich joint and tony wine bar. The outdoor patio fills quickly with wine enthusiasts and diners in search of French-inspired light fare. Asparagus salad and vegetable soup are some of the many can’t-miss starters, while mango chicken and French dip sandwiches are filling and flavorful. 7600 Dr. Phillips Blvd., 407-351-2101; $ RHINO SUBS The high point of this new endeavor from the experienced owner of Straub’s Seafood is fresh, hot bread right from the oven. Step up to the window and order steamy varieties like the “Explorer,” with smoked turkey, sautéed mushrooms and Swiss cheese, or the “Outfitter,” with roast beef, ham and turkey. 805 Lee Road, 407-647-9950; $ The Sandwich Company TIn what was the old Chili Daddy cookhouse, the Sandwich Co. opened for business just two weeks before this guide went to press. The menu looks promising: scaled-up versions of breakfast and lunch classics, like a Greek egg sandwich, a chicken Waldorf served on ciabatta and a steak and bleu-cheese salad. 419 E. Michigan St., 407-425-5512; $ VIRGIN OLIVE MARKET The buzz surrounding the soups at this “neighborhood noshery” draws a loyal clientele – try the stuffed bell pepper soup and see. Meticulously prepared salads, pastas and sandwiches underscore the commitment to quality, while assorted baked goods guarantee a sweet ending for all tastes. Don’t miss their eclectic weekend brunch. 807 N. Orange Ave., 407-601-7848; $ WAITIKI RETRO TIKI LOUNGE This Wall Street Plaza enclave boasts a Polynesian vibe. Bar snacks augment the specialty-drink menu, but the focus here is on getting loose, not getting full. 26 Wall St., 407-481-1199; $

Photo by Aldrin Capulong

TAPS WINE, BEER AND EATERY Part watering hole, part wine bar caters to grownups, but beer and wine aficionados are sure to be impressed with the extensive selection – providing they don’t run out. The menu focuses on small plates, salads and sandwiches. Hits: prosciutto-sprinkled mac & cheese and baked meatballs. Misses: smoky guacamole and Buffalo chicken lettuce wraps. Desserts accentuate decadence over delicacy. Open daily. 480 N. Orlando Ave., Winter Park, 407-6775000; $

PHILLY STYLE HOAGIES AND DELI Sandwich shop that brings Philly-style fresh-baked bread and tasty Thumann’s deli meats to the downtown lunch crowd, along with some unusual alternatives. Sandwiches come in three sizes, including a monster 2-footer. 223 N. Magnolia Ave., 407-423-0123; $ THE PITA PIT It’s a chain, but there’s something to be said for the fast, fresh menu of pita sandwiches, salads and sauces that can be accessed until 3 a.m. weeknights and 4 a.m. weekends. At that time of the morning, where else can you load up on alfalfa sprouts covered in tzatziki sauce? 1 S. Orange Ave., 407-4477482; 12140 Collegiate Way, 407-380-2333; 140 W. Fairbanks Ave., Winter Park, 407-478-8688; $

CRICKETER’S ARMS PUB & EATERY “A little piece of England in the heart of Orlando,” Cricketer’s has long been the place to watch European sport while chugging down a Tetley’s or a pint of Fuller’s ESB, but the new location is much more welcoming than their former Festival Bay space. Full English breakfast, Scotch eggs and sausage rolls are welcome sights for English expats – or brave Americans. 7563 Sand Lake Road, 407-730-2111; $

JAX 5TH AVE. DELI & ALE College Park stalwart serves up unaffected, nononsense fare. The joint is decidedly more downtown than it is uptown, and though they do take pride in their sandwich-making abilities, Jax is more CP-er’s watering hole of choice than it is a traditional deli. 3400 Edgewater Drive, 407-999-8934; 951 Greenwood Blvd., Lake Mary, 407-323-3354; $

for more than a half-century. Now up to more than 80 stores, they boast fans so fanatic that they’ll plan road trips around hitting as many as possible. Visit www.jerseymikes.com for multiple locations; $

WRAP PLANET A United Nations of unusual, vegetarian-friendly wraps for breakfast and lunch, as well as smoothies, salads and tacos, without the grease and guilt of fast food. The Bangkok Delight, with shredded chicken, cabbage slaw, rice, cucumbers and peanut sauce, is a heavy, healthful handful. 127 W. Fairbanks Ave., Winter Park, 407-790-4859; $ YELLOW DOG EATS Charming family-owned eatery is bigger and better after surviving a fire. Remodeled but still serving sophisticated sandwiches like the Yellow Dog club: pioneer bread with Cointreau mayonnaise, honey-mesquite turkey, smoked Gouda, bacon and red-leaf lettuce. 1236 Hempel Ave., Windermere, 407-296-0609; $

BIG FIN SEAFOOD KITCHEN Enormous seafood house serves the ocean’s gamut, though inconsistency can sometimes spoil the fun. Crab legs and lobster tails are the specialty, but don’t overlook the nice selection of shucked-to-order oysters, clams and mussels. Good service and a soaringly spacious room make a strong impression. 8046 W. Sand Lake Road, 407-615-8888; $$$ BLACK HAMMOCK FISH CAMP Travel down snaking Oviedo roads to Lake Jessup, walk past the camp’s live gator cage and then set yourself down for some Florida-style seafood that’s best enjoyed fried. 2356 Black Hammock Fish Camp Road, Oviedo, 407-365-1244; $$ BONEFISH GRILL Yet another entry into the restaurant bazaar that is Sand Lake Road, Bonefish brings moderately priced seafood and a pleasant atmosphere to the table. The bar is popular, and appetizers like “saucy shrimp” and “mussels Josephine” are superb – perhaps better than the multiple-choice fish entrees. 7830 W. Sand Lake Road, 407-355-7707; $$ BOSTON’S FISH HOUSE Orders are placed at the counter and payment settled, customers are steered to a vacant table – if there is one. Most seafood is fried, and Ipswich clams are a house specialty. 6860 Aloma Ave., Winter Park, 407-678-2107; $ THE CATFISH PLACE OF APOPKA Florida-style fish house is the place to go when you’re in the mood for down-home fried seafood. The restaurant is nothing fancy, but the boneless catfish is superb, the house-special coleslaw is crisp, sweet and tart, and the service is warm. 311 Forest Ave., Apopka, 407-889-7980; $$ CITYFISH Enjoy some quality catch in the graffiti’d environs of this neighborhood seafood joint. Fish and chips are good enough to make Maritimers swoon with nostalgia, while the peppery tilapia fillets in the tortilla salad are about the finest you’ll have. Parking can be a hassle. 617 E. Central Blvd., 407-849-9779; $$ DIXIE CROSSROADS This established beacon of Florida fish-house cuisine skips the niceties of atmosphere and decorum. But you do get cheap and filling platters of seafood (fried, steamed or broiled) plus an endless supply of the best corn fritters you will ever find. 1475 Garden St., Titusville, 321-268-5000; $$ FISH & CHIPS Small, cozy strip-mall spot is more family dining room than seaside shack. New England, Floridian and Caribbean seafood styles dominate, sometimes with a curry or southeast Asian twist. Traditional fish and chips is golden-brown and tenderly fresh; pan-seared shrimp slathered in red curry is a must-try. 1146 W. SR 436, Altamonte Springs, 407-862-2262; $$ FISH ON FIRE Part roadhouse, part fish camp, FOF offers Floridastyle eating in a south Orlando neighborhood devoid of other options. You can’t go wrong with the barbe-

cue, the fried catfish is a study in simple excellence, and the Key lime pie is very tasty. Cold tap beer and a pool table seal the deal. 7937 Daetwyler Drive, 407-812-6881; $$ FLYING FISH CAFÉ The service is so superb, it’s like the wait staff anticipates your needs as they serve the creative new American cuisine with a seafood spin. The whimsical atmosphere extends to daily specials that the chef synchronizes with what’s in season, but popular demand has won the red snapper in a crisp potato casing permanent menu status. 2102 N. Epcot Resorts Blvd., Lake Buena Vista, 407-939-3463; $$$ FRESH ON THE FLY For seafood served with a conscience, look no further, though be wary of possibly unsustainably sourced salmon. The mahi-mahi “cheesesteak” is a delicious take on a Philly standard, while the fish tacos are a healthy lunchtime meal; end with a slice of Key lime pie. Parking can be tough. 1210 S. International Parkway, Lake Mary, 407-878-5808; $ FULTON’S CRAB HOUSE This tourist fish haven at Downtown Disney offers a great view but little else to draw locals. The fish is sometimes overpriced and overcooked, but if you’re set on spending lots of money, you can’t go wrong with the Alaskan crab claws. The chocolate creme brulee is also a treat. 1670 N. Buena Vista Drive, Downtown Disney, Lake Buena Vista, 407-9342628; $$$$ HOT N JUICY CRAWFISH Las Vegas-based chain has crustaceans in the bag – literally. Crawfish, crab legs, shrimp and more are available by the pound, steamed in a plastic bag and seasoned to your taste with one of five spice mixes. Ordering is simple and service is unwaveringly cheerful. You will get messy eating with your hands, though; bring your own wet wipes. 7572 W. Sand Lake Road, 407-370-4655; $$ J.B.’S FISH CAMP A rambling shack with a tin roof, an outside deck and lots of beer. The pompano fillet is a fine piece of perfectly grilled fish. And yes, you can buy bait and tackle. 859 Pompano Ave., New Smyrna Beach, 386-427-5747; $ JOE’S CRAB SHACK As tacky as a tourist, this colorfully cluttered seafood outlet churns out a plentiful spread of ocean fare, specializing in “crabs, crabs and more crabs.” Everything is safely fried, steamed, grilled or broiled, with little in the way to mess things up. The lines extend to the parking lot. 4601 S. Semoran Blvd., 407-658-9299; $ LEE & RICK’S OYSTER BAR An unfancy place with 50 years of experience. The pound of hot or cold shrimp has a slightly spicy flavor, and the fish-dinner platters come with heaps of fries. But the fresh, sweet oysters (raw or steamed) are the focal point. For the full effect, sit at the bar and settle in with a bucket of them. 5621 Old Winter Garden Road, 407-293-3587; $$ MITCHELL’S FISH MARKET Nautical-themed seafood house in Winter Park Village serves only the freshest fish – some of which you can inspect on beds of ice in their display cases. Try your fish prepared Shang Hai style, steamed with ginger and soy and sided with sticky rice and spinach. 460 N. Orlando Ave., Winter Park, 407-3393474; $$$ MOONFISH Waiting for a bite takes on new meaning in atmospheric entry that baits its hook with fresh fish possibilities and comes up with mostly winners, as long as time is not of the essence in your dining plans. Sushi is immaculately prepared, and the Prince Edward Island mussels in garlic and white wine sauce are alone worthy of a visit. 7525 W. Sand Lake Road, 407-363-7262; $$$ OCEAN PRIME There’s plenty of style and swank at this supper club to keep the Sand Lake set happy, but a little more focus in the kitchen and front of the house will make this good restaurant great. Live music can be entertaining or bothersome, depending on your mood. 7339 W. Sand Lake Road, 407-781-4880; $$$$

OCEANAIRE SEAFOOD ROOM A budget-busting bounty of unparalleled freshness awaits seafood lovers at what is arguably Orlando’s finest seafood house. Up to 25 varieties of fish, lobster, crab and mussels, and 12 varieties of oysters, are flown in daily from around the world. Family-style sides are available, though not necessary. Save room to share the enormous wedge of caramel brownie. 9101 International Drive, 407-363-4801; $$$$ TODD ENGLISH’S BLUEZOO Prices won’t make celebrity chef Todd English’s place a weekly destination for most folks, but splurging whenever you can afford to is great way to feel like king of the sea. Ambience and service are pampering and not pretentious, and match up to slap-the-table delectables like the “miso-glazed Chilean sea bass” and “fish grilled simply.” Disney’s Dolphin Resort, 1500 Epcot Resorts Blvd., Lake Buena Vista, 407939-3463; $$$$ VICTORIO’S OYSTER BAR & GRILLE Every kind of seafood favorite you can think of – oysters by the dozen and half-dozen, king crab legs, shrimp and catfish – as well as traditional Italian favorites like linguini with clam sauce, baked lasagna and eggplant parmigiana make this a place the whole family can agree on. 300 Dog Track Road, Longwood, 407-874-9800; $$ WINTER PARK FISH CO. The seafood with a conscience served here will get you hooked. Of particular note: wild coho served with crisp green beans and pearl couscous. Alaskan ling cod makes for gratifying fish and chips, and fresh-out-of-the-fryer hush puppies are sublime all by themselves. Expect long waits. 761 N. Orange Ave., Winter Park, 407-622-6112; $$

meat-eaters’ cravings with some of the best cuts in town. Stick with the steak, though; everything else is just a distraction. 6107 S. Orange Blossom Trail, 407-851-7130; 8255 International Drive, 407-3630228; $$$$ FLEMING’S PRIME STEAKHOUSE & WINE BAR Paul Fleming, the “P.F.” in P.F. Chang’s, brings another high-end steakhouse to Winter Park, with an emphasis on wine. Typically wood and leather in styling, Fleming’s offers aged, hand-cut beef in huge, thickas-a-brick servings and family-style side dishes, giant seafood entrees and enormous desserts. Big and beefy. 933 N. Orlando Ave., Winter Park, 407-6999463; 8030 Via Dellagio Way, 407-352-5706; $$$$

MI TOMATINA PAELLA BAR Hannibal Square tapas bar impresses patrons with its lineup of hot and cold small plates and rice dishes. Mushroom caps stuffed with Serrano ham, authentic tortilla con chorizo, and vegetarian paella full of meaty wild mushrooms spark the palate. A nice selection of Spanish wines and sherries ensures authenticity. 433 W. New England Ave., Winter Park, 321-972-4881; $$

FOGO DE CHAO The newest Brazilian steakhouse on the scene is heaven for meat-eaters: waiters in traditional garb pace the room, wielding spears of grilled meats, just waiting to fill plates with a rainbow of proteins. Diversify with endless baskets of cheese bread, papaya flan or a caipirinha. 8282 International Drive, 407-370-0711; $$$$ KRES CHOPHOUSE Most of the food is outstanding, but inconsistency plagues the kitchen of this sumptuous yet cozy space; the ambience alone makes this downtown destination worth a second try. Menu standouts include the shellfish bisque and the mixed grill. 17 W. Church St., 407-447-7950; $$$$

SPENCER’S FOR STEAKS AND CHOPS As its name suggests, this is the place to go for steaks, chops, seafood and other fine-dining favorites. Prime-cut aged beef, free-range chicken, local seafood and local organic produce are on the menu here, as well as a selection of fine wines and cocktails. This is a place not just to eat, but to

CHARLEY’S STEAK HOUSE This old-school establishment answers traditional

4 RIVERS SWEET SHOP The latest addition to the Central Florida footprint of 4 Rivers Smokehouse is a confectionery conjoined to its Longwood restaurant. Large layer cakes are the big attention-getter, but consider trying one of the oversized, generously frosted cupcakes in junk-food combo flavors like Mountain Dew-and-Doritos or Coke-and-potato chip. 1869 W. SR 434, Longwood, 407-474-8377; $$ ANNIE PIE’S BAKERY Humongous, coma-inducing cakes and cheesecakes that are not just delicious, but also marvels of construction – the peanut butter explosion cake, layers of fudge brownie, peanut-butter mousse and chocolate cake, weighs in at more than 12 pounds. Closed weekends; cakes available for home delivery. 150 National Place, Longwood, 407-831-7288; $$ BEARD PAPA’S At the Osaka-based company’s first Florida outlet, the preservative-free pastries come in three varieties – original vanilla, eclair and cookie; the whipped custard filling, not too sweet and made fresh daily, comes in vanilla, chocolate and a daily-changing “premium flavor” – caramel, green tea or the like. 4922 W. SR 46, Sanford, 407-322-3456; $ BEN & JERRY’S Three dozen flavors and only one of you, that’s the dilemma at Ben & Jerry’s. All the favorites, like Chunky Monkey and Cherry Garcia, are there, along with some new arrivals, like Dilbert’s Totally Nuts. 8969 International Drive, 407-903-9333; 1000 Universal Studios Plz., 407-363-8000; 9101 International Drive, 407-286-3353; $ BLUE BIRD BAKE SHOP Real butter, fresh fruit and Madagascar bourbon vanilla are among the superior ingredients the bakers at Blue Bird use to create their amazingly addictive cupcakes, baked fresh in small batches every day. In addition to traditional faves like red velvet and strawberry, this shop also creates unique flavors. Try the chocolate Guinness or vanilla black pepper for a change of pace. 3122 Corrine Drive, 407-2283822; $

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LINDA’S LA CANTINA STEAKHOUSE No matter how you slice it, Linda’s La Cantina serves a superb steak and has been doing so for more than a half a century. The surf-and-turf is fantastic. The T-bone steaks are served in mammoth proportions. Though nothing else on the menu is quite so impressive, the atmosphere is pleasant and casual. 4721 E. Colonial Drive, 407-894-4491; $$$ MORTON’S – THE STEAKHOUSE The quintessential steakhouse experience: dark wood, obsequious waiters, single-malt scotch and big serious hunks of meat. Lighter appetites or those on a budget can stop by for happy hour, which features mini-versions of some of Morton’s most popular dishes. 7600 Dr. Phillips Blvd., 407-248-3485; $$$$ NELORE CHURRASCARIA Park Avenue churrascaria offers up an awesome 40-item salad bar, but it’s the all-you-can-eat-meat extravaganza that packs ’em in. Our advice: stick to the sirloin cuts (top sirloin and picanha) and avoid the lamb. Consider a pitcher of sangria to enjoy with your meal. Brazilian desserts are made in-house. 115 E. Lyman Ave., Winter Park, 407-645-1112; $$$$ OMAHA STEAKHOUSE The latest entry in the crowded steakhouse market trades on the established name built by this retail and mail-order meat giant. The steaks are good – especially the filet mignon – the sides are an aside, and the desserts are otherworldly (cheesecake is a must-try). But the same could be said of most

indulge. Hilton Orlando, 6001 Destination Parkway, 407-313-8625; $$$$ TEXAS DE BRAZIL One price buys overindulgence at this richly styled all-you-can-eat Brazilian churrascaria, serving 15 cuts of charcoal-grilled meats on large skewers that are delivered to your table till you tell ’em to stop. The salad bar is a country in itself, with a wealth of fresh vegetables and Latin standbys, as well as gourmet specialties like shrimp ceviche and artichoke and raisin melange. 5259 International Drive, 407-3550355; $$$$ TIMPANO ITALIAN CHOPHOUSE The “concept” is big-city dining with the allure of 1950s New York nightclubs. The result is extraordinary quality and impeccable service. You could get a better veal saltimbocca – thin cutlets served with prosciutto ham and provolone in a subtle garlic and sage sauce – but you’d have to go to Rome to find it. 7488 W. Sand Lake Road, 407-248-0429; $$ VITO’S CHOP HOUSE Over-the-top and oversized elegance is the game at this old-style steakhouse with a dark-wood decor and ultra-attentive waiters. The steaks come in gigantic portions and have spectacular flavor. The dessert tray offers more ridiculously huge choices. 8633 International Drive, 407-354-2467; $$$

CHARLIE’S GOURMET PASTRIES Fourth-generation bakery offers a novel way to put your favorite snapshots to use: Have them scanned for a “photo cake,” transferring the image onto a sheet cake with white icing (starting at $18). From Elvis cakes to birthday-girl cakes, the possibilities are endless. 3213 Curry Ford Road, 407-898-9561; $ CHEWY BOBA TEA COMPANY Bubble teas, invented in Taiwan in the 1980s to appeal to school kids, have taken hold in Orlando. Tapioca pearls, or “boba,” create the illusion of bubbles in the exotic drinks that range from an avocado smoothie to “four-color pudding” – all distinguished by the shrink-wrap lid. 1212 E. Colonial Drive, 407-897-1377; 8098 S. Orange Blossom Trail, 407-850-2622; $ THE DESSERT LADY CAFÉ Patti Schmidt, the “Dessert Lady,” serves up seriously seductive sweets, wines and decadent coffee drinks. Buttercream-frosted carrot cake with rum-soaked raisins on the side is a standout among the addictive offerings. 4900 S. Kirkman Road, 407-822-8881; 120 West Church St., 407-999-5696; $ EMACK & BOLIO’S The ice creams are the same premium, homemade concoctions (with rock & roll names like Deep Purple Cow and Strawberry Fields Forever) fashioned from hormone-free milk that made the first store a Boston standout. Hard Rock Hotel, 5800 Universal Blvd., 407-503-2432; $ GHIRARDELLI SODA FOUNTAIN & CHOCOLATE SHOP Gourmet chocolate shop in Downtown Disney Marketplace does wonders for ice cream, with rich, decadent toppings on specialties like the “world famous hot fudge sundae” and the “ultimate colossal

Photo by Aldrin Capulong

THE CAPITAL GRILLE You’ll pay dearly for the extraordinary service and posh atmosphere at this chain steakhouse. You might come away wondering if you ate your money’s worth, but the steaks are really very good. Pointe Orlando, 9101 International Drive, 407-370-4392; $$$$

THE PALM The first Palm was opened in New York circa 1926, and the Orlando version features a mixture of fine, uncomplicated dishes and slight near-misses. Steaks are enormous. In a break from standard Universal routine, free valet parking is right at the door. Hard Rock Hotel, 5800 Universal Blvd., 407-503-7256; $$$ RUTH’S CHRIS STEAK HOUSE Weighing in heavily on the masculine side of the top-dollar dining spectrum, the ambience, menu and service here are delivered with excellence. The New Orleans-based chain serves only aged meats from corn-fed Hereford cows – seared on an 1,800-degree grill – so tender a knife isn’t necessary. For expense accounts and special occasions. 7501 W. Sand Lake Road, 407-226-3900; 80 Colonial Center Parkway, Lake Mary, 407-804-8220; 610 N. Orlando Ave., Winter Park, 407-622-2444; $$$$

CAFÉ MADRID A community gathering ground where citizens come together for food and to engage in a little social, political and cultural discourse. Well-executed Latin staples – Cuban, Spanish and Puerto Rican – are sure to console homesick expats. The multitude of beef, chicken, pork and seafood dishes are tasty, but not particularly vegetarian-friendly. 4502 Curry Ford Road, 407-281-9491; $$ CEVICHE TAPAS BAR AND RESTAURANT The seductive interior alone makes this Church Street joint worth visiting, though the whopping selection of small plates is what keeps patrons coming back. Refreshing ceviche de atun segues nicely into Iberico ham; creamy tres leches meringue cake with fresh berries is as savory as it is siesta-inducing. 125 W. Church St., 321-281-8140; $$

Orlando-area steak houses, all of which are easier to find. 225 Shorecrest Drive, Altamonte Springs, 407-571-3458; $$$

WE’VE STEAKED OUR CLAIM PRIME STEAK • FINE WINE • PRIVATE DINING • NEW MENU

Join us for Restaurant Week May 3 – May 12 Dr. Phillips Place 7600 Dr. Phillips Blvd. 407.248.3485 mortons.com/orlando

sundae.” 1710 E. Buena Vista Drive, Downtown Disney Marketplace, 407-934-8855; $

results of your dabbling in the frozen arts. 1807 N. Orange Ave.; $

GURTZBERRY The digs (love the teacup chairs) are as pacifying as a spoonful of green-tea fro-yo; tart swirls of organic chocolate are equally fulfilling, even with just 11 grams of sugar per 4-ounce serving. Sugary cereals and chocolate chips can sweeten things up, but for the health-conscious, fruit toppings are also available. Also on offer are frappes, smoothies and fresh-squeezed juices. 124 E. Morse Blvd., Winter Park, 407-951-8039; $

VALENCIA BAKERY Famous New York bakery filled with sugary pasteles (pastries from Puerto Rico), including cannoli-like sweets with flaky outsides and custard fillings, and turnovers filled with guava jelly. There are also pastelitos (like empanadas), but they sell out fast. Then, of course, there are the cakes, actually made in the original New York bakery and shipped down. 1015 Semoran Blvd., Casselberry, 407-265-0400; $

HEN HOUSE Wall St.’s new Hen House doesn’t serve a lot in the way of food; it’s more about getting you messed up on moonshine. But the “bar-dello” (geddit, a bar with a bordello theme?) does serve Bailey’s in an edible chocolate shotglass, so hey, that’s good nutrition, right? Tiny, crowded and too much fun. 26 Wall St.; $ JEREMIAH’S ORIGINAL ITALIAN ICE It’s like a sorbet only more slushy. It’s not a snow cone, although it does come in a cup, in not-toosweet and refreshing flavors such as mango, kiwi, tangerine, watermelon, red raspberry and passionfruit. Whatever you call it, it’s different and delicious. 6864 Aloma Ave., Winter Park, 407-679-2665; 111 S. Orlando Ave., 407-599-9991. 12271 University Blvd., 407-277-7769; $

AYOTHAYA THAI CUISINE Forgive the anonymous decor and TV sets, and some pleasant surprises await in Ayothaya’s seemingly run-of-the-mill menu. The standard curries and

ORCHID Thai restaurant on the northern end of Park Avenue infuses an artistic sensibility into every dish. Infernal green curry, larb chicken and flaky curry pastry puffs all come plated with orchids, as does palate-soothing Thai iced tea. 305 N. Park Ave., Winter Park, 407331-1400; $$ PILIN THAI When it comes to comfort food of the Thai variety, here’s a Seminole County success. Highly soothing are the crunchy green papaya salad doused in spicy chili vinaigrette and the creamy massaman curry (meat or tofu with potatoes, onions and peanutcoconut sauce). The surrounding neighborhood is onto it, as the takeout trade is brisk. 851 W. SR 436, Altamonte Springs, 407-788-1862; $ RED BAMBOO Strip-mall dining at its best, Red Bamboo – sort of a cousin to Thai House – turns out top Thai standards and specials at reasonable prices as well as fastidious service. The cooks are masters with spicy seasoning that doesn’t bring on tears. And the wines are carefully selected to bring out the best in the cuisine. 6803 S. Kirkman Road, 407-226-8997; $$

SoNapa Grille • page 15

LE MACARON Sarasota’s Le Macaron has opened a satellite store on Park Avenue, where sweet, crisp-shelled, light-as-air macarons in classic Parisian flavors like cassis, pistachio and mint sit alongside modern ones like basil with white chocolate, passion fruit and gingerbread. Also beautiful are the truffles and the dense creamy gelato. 216 N. Park Ave., Winter Park, 321-295-7958; $

RAINBOW SNO-CONES The original fat-free frozen snack, this simple recipe of shaved ice and a shot of flavored dextrose comes in 55 flavors, from “polar punch” (light blue raspberry) to sour apple. 3116 Corrine Drive, 407896-9105; $ RAPHSODIC COOPERATIVE COMPANY Old-fashioned tile floor, glass-fronted dark wood display cases and exposed ductwork lend a pleasingly industrial-cum-apothecary feel – just right for a fix of healthy vegan decadence, but they open too late for a morning java fix. No matter, dairy-free Chinese five-spice brownies and dense, moist carrot-ginger spice cake (and of course, the omnipresent red velvet cupcakes) will shut down your critical faculties. 710 N. Mills Ave., 407-704-8615; $$

TWISTED BLISS ICE CREAM Walk-up window dispenses daily-changing menu of homemade Italian ices (such as banana cream pie, cookie dough or Red Bull) that can either be scooped alone or swirled with fresh soft-serve, then topped with a variety of sweet goodies. There’s an attached outdoor patio where you can sit and contemplate the

THAI CUISINE A former Asian market that retains its no-frills atmosphere while serving authentic Thai food at good prices. Spicy red curries and barbecued meats from northeastern Thailand are featured, but the more familiar basil-loaded dishes and green curries from the rest of the country are on the menu, too. 5325 Edgewater Drive, 407-292-9474; $ THAI HOUSE No nouveau-fusion cuisine here – just authentic fare, from the tom kha gai (chicken-coconut soup) to truly wonderful pad thai. Don’t let the silly names stop you; “Smokey and the Bandit” – a small tureen of smoked shrimp, glass noodles and veggies – is loaded with the flavors of chili and ginger. 2117 E. Colonial Drive, 407-898-0820; $$

THAI SINGHA A small storefront restaurant hidden in the maze of the Waterford Town Center shopping miasma, Singha is well worth the search. Typical Thai dishes made atypically, such as pad thai seasoned with slowsimmered sauce or red curry eggplant with alligator meat. Family-run, friendly and worthy of repeat visits. 863 N. Alafaya Trail, 407-382-8201; $$

soups are there, but a section of (pricey) fresh fish specialties are worth investigating. Don’t forget to ask about the specials. 7555 W. Sand Lake Road, 407-345-0040; $$ CHAI THAI The latest entry into the SoDo dining scene is also one of its finest. Well-executed Thai staples keep ’em coming back, but the duck dishes stand out. To share, consider the curry trio. Spicy tom yum gai soup and syrupy banana delight are great bookends to the meal. 2447 S. Orange Ave., 407-841-8981; $$ G&G THAI If you’re in the southwest sector of town, here’s a spot to fill up on perfectly crafted Thai dishes at reasonable prices. The expansive selection is conducive to trying something new. Highly recommended: the ginger duck and the coconut ice cream. 6700 Conroy Windermere Road, 407-292-5554; $ NAPASORN THAI RESTAURANT In the heart of downtown Orlando on bar-laden Pine Street, a welcome oasis of sake and Thai food. With a few wanders away from traditional cooking and the addition of a sushi bar, they still manage to serve up dishes prepared with care and enthusiasm. A most enjoyable destination. 56 E. Pine St., 407-2458088; $$ NARADEVA THAI Straight-up Siamese staples and a gone-bamboo decor greet diners at this Millenia Mall-area restaurant. An extensive menu of the same-old same-old belies a few unique items (steamed tapioca balls filled with minced pork, battered prawns in tamarind sauce). Black sticky rice with shaved coconut drizzled with a heavenly palm-sugar caramel and coconut cream is a must. 4696 Millenia Plaza Way, 407-903-0300; $$

ROYAL THAI As Thai restaurants continue to pop up around town, Royal Thai stands out for originality and attention to detail. The humble restaurant resembles a cool, dimly lit garden cottage, but the chef’s special touches – even in simple dishes like param – make this a worthy destination for sophisticated classics. 1202 N. Semoran Blvd., 407-275-0776; $$ SEA THAI Yet another Asian entry on the eastern edge of the ViMi district, SEA Thai’s menu is also edgy; house specialties include a jazzed-up “South East Asia pad thai” with prawns, and pineapple duck curry offers crispy boneless meat covered with pineapple and red curry-cream sauce. 3812 E. Colonial Drive, 407-895-0985; $$ SIAM GARDEN This neat and unassuming new entry jumps out from the growing competition with a fusion of Indian, Burmese, Laotian, Malaysian and Chinese influenced cuisine. The mee krob appetizer is a must: crunchy fried noodles tossed with sweet tamarind-tomato sauce, with shrimp, bean sprouts and green onions. 1111 W. Webster Ave., Winter Park, 407-599-7443; $ TASTY THAI The minimal interior is a perfect foil for a complex menu, with flavors that come together in sweet, surprising ways. Grilled, roasted and stir-fried meats merge with combinations of lemongrass, curry, chilies, cilantro, ginger and coconut milk. Service is thoughtful and gracious. 3806 Curry Ford Road, 407-895-6266; $ THAI BASIL Another suburban spinoff of sorts from Thai House, this tasty and tastefully decorated oasis for Thai

THAI VILLA Falling into the OK-but-not-great category, Thai Villa offers traditional takes on noodle dishes, curries and main dish variations of stir-fries, combinations of vegetables and different sauces. If you’re hungry and in the neighborhood, you could do worse. 7355 Aloma Ave., Winter Park, 407-677-8957; $

ANATOLIA Anatolia’s kitchen take great pride in Turkey’s gastronomical heritage, offering a bill of fare that sets it apart from other restaurants straddling the line between Middle Eastern and Mediterranean. Sublime lamb stew, kebabs and calves’ liver are all stellar. Turkish coffee (or tea) with spectacular baklava is an absolute must. 7600 Dr. Phillips Blvd., 407-352-6766; $$ ATTILA’S STEAK & SALAD Forgo the midrange cuts of steak that can be had anywhere and flip to the menu’s back page, where a host of Turkish offerings await. Meat-lovers will revel in the mixed grill, plated with varying cuts of beef, chicken and lamb. Imported baklava and a demitasse of Turkish coffee make an exquisite ending. 1326 N. Mills Ave., 407-898-0999; $$ BOSPHOROUS TURKISH CUISINE Winter Park’s only Turkish restaurant serves delightful fare with many lamb, eggplant and yogurt-centered dishes. Not only is the food superb, it’s also a nice place to sit while smoking scented tobacco from their water pipes and/or enjoying a glass of Turkish wine. 108 S. Park Ave., Winter Park, 407-644-8609; $$$

Photo by Jason Greene

SCHAKOLAD CHOCOLATE FACTORY Leave it to Schakolad to improve on an Easter tradition – offering biker bunnies on milk-chocolate motorcycles. There are many other melt-in-yourmouth designs, and the artisans behind the counter can create almost any shape you want, from martini glasses to sugar lips. 480 N. Orlando Ave., Winter Park, 407-677-4114; 3375 E. Colonial Drive, 407895-0040; $

THAI BLOSSOM Winter Garden’s first Thai restaurant offers area residents their first local taste of traditional and classic Siamese dishes. The menu offers a hodgepodge of hit-and-miss items, pots tickers falling into the former and Thai basil beef into the latter. Desserts like banana delight and Thai donuts are an undeniable standouts. Open seven days a week. 99 W. Plant St., Winter Garden, 407-905-9917; $$

THAI PLACE It’s a pleasure to occupy one of the tables in this shopping-center spot with dark walls and glittery artwork. The food is always as good as you remember: the fragrant tom kha gai; the salad, resplendent with peanut dressing; and the satisfying choice of chicken, seafood, beef or pork in a variety of sauces, including the sudden-attack variety. 501 N. Orlando Ave., Winter Park, 407-644-8449; $$

MARBLE SLAB CREAMERY Here, they turn ice-cream cones into an art form. Choose your scoop from tubs of freshly made ice cream, then pick from the cookie or candy “mix-ins.” They’ll pound and fold the two together on a marble slab, creating a delicious blob. 2614 E. Colonial Drive, 407-895-0250; 380 SR 434, Altamonte Springs, 407-774-7522; 415 N.Alafaya Trail, 407-382-3811; $ MOCHI FROZEN YOGURT The three posted steps at Mochi’s sparkling spot in the Plaza building are pleasantly uncontrived: Pick your yogurt flavor, put toppings on it, then weigh and pay. Newbies should take it easy on the self-serve – it’s not hard to go overboard. Mochi patties are available for those looking for something different. 145 S. Orange Ave., 407-425-9797; $

in Winter Springs stakes out new territory for Thai cuisine. The green papaya salad and pad thai are particularly memorable. 5800 Red Bug Lake Road, Winter Springs, 407-699-8889; $

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in both flavor and healthfulness, but doesn’t quite make it to delicious. Still, it’s an inexpensive option for a guilt-free meal – and desserts, particularly skyr mousse, are a highlight. 1700 Sand Lake Road, 407-856-8881; $

CAFÉ 118 The raw food movement sprouts at Café 118, where raw ingredients supplant all manner of cooked comestibles. Macadamia- and cashew-based “cheeses” are central ingredients in crunchy chiles rellenos and refreshing basil wrappers, while portobello steak takes on the appearance of filleted tenderloin, right down to the “pan juices.” Fresh fruit-and-vegetable juices, like beet and green apple, are splendid. 153 E. Morse Blvd., Winter Park, 407-389-2233; $$$ DANDELION COMMUNITEA CAFÉ More than 30 organic loose-leaf teas are offered at this socially conscious teahouse that’s become a gathering ground for nonconformists, neo-cons and everyone in between. A predominantly vegan menu of wraps, salads and an outstandingly hearty chili will satisfy even the most ravenous of carnivores. Start with hummus with hemp seeds, and finish with the fluffernutter sandwich – a sweet proposition. 618 N. Thornton Ave., 407-362-1864; $ DRUNKEN MONKEY COFFEE BAR Meat, though present on the menu, takes a backseat to healthy vegan and vegetarian fare at this urban coffeehouse. Of note: Liquid-gold soups and hearty vegetarian paella. Banana bread with chocolate chips partners well with the Mojo Jojo, coffee with cinnamon and sweetened condensed milk. Don’t overlook the fresh-squeezed juices. 444 N. Bumby Ave., 407-893-4994; $

Photo by Aldrin Capulong

ETHOS VEGAN KITCHEN Creative, satisfying meatless fare is the norm at this all-vegan restaurant. Mac and cheese is gratifyingly gooey and segues nicely into sheep’s pie with its generous heaping of fluffy mashed potatoes. A cozy outdoor courtyard offers bucolic views of the oaks fringing Lake Ivanhoe, and hosts Sunday brunch and monthly vegan barbecues. 1235 N. Orange Ave., 407-228-3898; $ LOVING HUT Formerly a dark cave of a Vietnamese restaurant, the tiny building has been transformed into a sparklingwhite temple of oddly delicious veggie dining. The environmentally friendly Loving Hut offers a win-win proposition: Along with more typical Asian options like “noble rice” and “saintly stir-fry,” the menu is stocked with snacks like cheesecake, “golden nuggets” and “happy dogs,” but it’s all vegan. Don’t miss the fresh spring rolls or the “coconut delight.” 2101 E. Colonial Drive, 407-894-5673; $ SAFFRAN When a restaurant characterizes itself first and foremost as “healthy,” it’s probably not going to be delicious. Saffran, an Icelandic chain, flaunts its innovative melding of world-cuisine flavors with healthy ingredients and techniques, and succeeds

POWER HOUSE CAFÉ Founded in 1970, the simple eatery with an active lunch counter is what used to be called a “healthfood restaurant.” Pitas and salads rule, as does the delicacy that single-handedly revived the blender – the smoothie. 111 E. Lyman Ave., Winter Park, 407-645-3616; $ SLEEPING MOON CAFÉ Boho coffeehouse perks up the Aloma/Semoran corridor with bold brews, live music and a colorful aesthetic. Soups, salads and sandwiches comprise the menu offerings; butternut squash and tomatolentil soups are spot-on, while sandwiches can be hit (“roast beef yum”) or miss (“Tofurkey Day”). To end, the chocolate trilogy provides another caffeine fix. Closed Sundays. 495 N. Semoran Blvd., Winter Park, 321-295-7844; $ THE SMOOTHIE ROOM It’s an all-natural fruit and vegetable juice bar that serves smoothies made fresh on the spot, with no juice concentrates or added sweeteners, but don’t worry: With menu items like the Chocolate Factory (almond milk, dark chocolate, cacao, banana and peanut butter), no one’s going to feel deprived. 25 W. Crystal Lake St., 407-250-4894; $

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ANH HONG There are hundreds of items on the menu at this ViMi mainstay, where No. 146 – fried tofu stir-fried with lemongrass and chili – reigns supreme over the many vegetarian options that round out meat and seafood. There are salads, subs (banh mi), and various neoncolored surprises in the takeout refrigerator case. 1124 E. Colonial Drive, 407-999-2656; $ BOSTON BAKERY & CAFÉ Baked goods are hard to come by at this oddly named Vietnamese lunch counter, but their banh mi won Orlando Weekly’s unofficial seal of approval as the tastiest in town. Satisfy your sweet tooth with a passion-fruit slushie or a sugary bubble tea or for an extra kick, consider strong, creamy iced Vietnamese coffee. 1525 E. Colonial Drive, 407-228-1219; $

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LAC-VIET BISTRO Orlando has some of the best Vietnamese food in the nation, and you’ll find it at Lac-Viet, a newcomer on the Vietnamese-flavored stretch of Colonial Drive near Mills Avenue. With a sense of style, they serve great old standbys, as well as fresh inventions – try the bun mang vit, rice vermicelli with bamboo and duck. 2021 E. Colonial Drive, 407-228-4000; $$

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Matteo’s Ristorante Italiano • page 31

LITTLE SAIGON This place bustles like the high-traffic neighborhood around the intersection of Mills Avenue and Colonial Drive, where it has been serving for more than 12 years. The menu runs the gamut from appetizers to noodle dishes to stir-fries, mixing and matching pork, beef, seafood and vegetables. The combo plates are a good deal. Service and attention are commensurate with inside traffic. 1106 E. Colonial Drive, 407-423-8539; $$ PHO 88 You won’t need burgers for a fast-food fix once you find this Vietnamese noodle shop. Specializing in gigantic bowls of very thin rice noodles and various cuts of beef submerged in delicately seasoned broth, they also serve the usual exotics of shrimp paste and grilled pork. But the soup’s the thing. 730 N. Mills Ave., 407-897-3488; $ PHO HOA The chain has moved into Primrose Drive, bringing slow-simmered, delicately seasoned soup with a variety of additions, from basic steak and chicken to acquired tastes like tripe and tendon. Play it safe or explore. 649 N. Primrose Drive, 407-895-6098; $$

EOLA WINE COMPANY A true and very welcome wine bar that offers its wares by the glass or in 2-ounce sampler flights. If something grabs your fancy, racks of bottles line the walls. Eola Wine hops until 2 a.m. most nights, with a menu of grapes and brews that changes, along with desserts. 500 E. Central Blvd., 407-481-9100; 136 S. Park Ave., Winter Park, 407-647-9103; $$

SAIGON FLAVORS Former Viet Garden owner Charlie Tang brings an upscale brand of Vietnamese cuisine to Oviedo. Fourteen varieties of pho anchor a menu rich with delicious spring and summer rolls, vermicelli dishes and chef’s specials, including sublime sweet-andsour fish soup. To end, both mild flan and fried banana flambé gratify. 3573 Aloma Ave., Oviedo, 407-951-8818; $$

LE ROUGE WINE BAR & TAPAS Inviting and beautifully appointed dining room has the looks, but the kitchen proffers a hodgepodge of so-so small plates. The spiced lamb sausage is worth a taste, but it’s best to swing by during happy hour and get your fill of $5 wines by the glass. 7730 W. Sand Lake Road, 407-370-0909; $$

THUYEN VIÊN Simplicity is the order at this humble Vietnamese vegetarian eatery run by a Buddhist temple. Monks prep and serve soups, steamed buns, sandwiches and sticky rice snacks, but don’t overlook the refrigerated display of meat analogues. A language barrier adds to the adventure, but volunteers often assist diners with questions. 1216 E. Colonial Drive, 407-233-5866; $ VIET GARDEN A mainstay since 1994, this cozy eatery owes its success to Charlie Tang, who took over in 1998 and made it the great restaurant it remains today. The service has been polished up, but what makes us go back is the consistently fresh food. Don’t miss the golden pancake, one of the best Vietnamese crepes in town. 1237 E. Colonial Drive, 407-896-4154; $

YUM-MI SANDWICHES Bright, fresh and modern banh mi counter aims to please the masses with their variations on the iconic Vietnamese sandwich. Specialty options like

SANFORD WINE COMPANY This temple to fermentation is as friendly to the diehard Mondavian as it is to the most urbane oenophile. SWC forgoes so-chic seared-tuna appetizers in favor of snappy bratwursts and meaty burgers, and the knowledgeable wait staff can pair a camembert with the perfect cabernet. 114 S. Palmetto Ave., Sanford, 407-302-8620. URBAN FLATS The wine list is oh-so-chic, and the fancy cruvinet system used to serve wine by the glass (in 3-ounce and 6-ounce pours) keeps oxidation in order. The flatbreads are stupendous – thin-crusted and kissed by the fire of the woodstone oven. 183 S. Orange Ave., 321-332-6889; $$ VINEYARD WINE COMPANY Attractive wine bar-bistro poses a safe bet for date night with a capable, albeit predictable, array of tapas dishes and mains. Wine is taken seriously here, so feel free to solicit the opinion of the in-house sommelier. 1140 Townpark Ave., Ste. 1260, Lake Mary, 407-833-9463; $$ THE WINE ROOM ON PARK AVENUE This comfortably dark and cozy wine bar on Winter Park’s main drag offers artisanal cheese “flights” to complement your wines of choice, as well as charcuterie platters, salads, desserts and heartier fare like sandwiches and flatbreads. 270 S. Park Ave., Winter Park, 407-696-9463; $$

Photo by Jason Greene

VINH’S With its extensive, varied menu, Vinh’s is a good place to explore the contrasts of Vietnamese food – from traditional barbecue pork rolls and substantial soups to eclectic dishes such as lotus roots with shrimp, pork and “sour salad.” 1231 E. Colonial Drive, 407-894-5007; $

pork belly (“Miss Piggy”) and Asian-marinated beef cubes (“shimmy shaker”) stuffed inside fresh-baked baguettes provide the hits to Yum-Mi’s misses (the lackluster original). Fresh fruit slushes and ricepudding-like chè are must-have treats. Open daily 10 a.m.-8 p.m. 1227 N. Mills Ave., 407-894-1808; $

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