AUGUST 24 2013 £4.75 www.drapersonline.com
booting up
Andy Hewat is on a mission to accelerate Timberland’s sales SHOPWATCH Office
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THIS FASHION LIFE
Talking textiles with Celia Birtwell / P40
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NEWS
Coast to see Bostock touch by spring ... MBO to follow?
The retailer’s new chief executive intends to widen its offer and hints at possibility of buyout By Eric Musgrave
Kate Bostock plans to put her imprint on Coast as early as spring 14, the incoming chief executive has told Drapers. Clearly delighted to be in complete charge of a fashion business, she also hinted that a management buyout of the chain could be in her plans. Speaking exclusively to Drapers this week, Bostock said: “I’m really chuffed about the job and really excited to be running something myself. I had been in two minds about starting my own brand, but with Coast everything is there. “It’s a successful business, it’s omnichannel, it’s international and there are some very good people who can give me great support. “I have had some great bosses, but I am long in the tooth and I just want to run my own business, to make the decisions and get on with it.” Asked whether a buyout was an option, she laughed and said: “We’ll see”. A sale of the business is thought likely as Coast is currently in the process of being separated from Aurora stablemates Oasis and Warehouse, with autumn 2014 set as the deadline. Although her starting date is September 16, Bostock is already influencing Coast’s direction. “The team are part-way through finalising spring 14 and are booking capacity and putting down fabric,
While Margaret McDonald steered the business in a luxury direction, I’d expect younger appeal under Kate. This is a great moment for everyone infuriated by the infamous comment from Asos about her age – that was outrageous, and is now suitably put to bed. Mary Anderson-Ford, managing director of recruitment firm Aquaretail
Added sparkle: Kate Bostock will broaden Coast’s appeal beyond occasionwear
but I have asked them to hold back in some areas so we can bring in new things,” she told Drapers. “I will be going out to see our Far East suppliers in October and most definitely you will see changes in our summer 14 ranges.” When the news broke of her appointment on Tuesday, both Bostock and Derek Lovelock, the group’s executive chairman, confirmed that extending Coast’s offer from its special occasion specialism was a high priority. Bostock’s vision is to keep Coast as a “dressing up” destination but to provide “outfits for more than just weddings and Ascot”.
“Another attraction for me was Coast’s expertise in dresses because out of all the things I’ve done, that category is my favourite,” Bostock explained. “But the Coast offer has been perhaps too one-dimensional. Dressing up is not just about special occasions, it’s about dressing up for a midweek meal, a weekend barbecue or drinks with friends after work. It should be about nice tops to wear with favourite jeans or dresses with a bit of sparkle.” Bostock added: “Dressing up has never been more on-trend.” A better selection of footwear and accessories is also on the cards,
Coast is the sort of fashion chain that people would have expected Kate to gravitate to, although it’s surprising she didn’t want to lie low a bit longer after her traumatic experience at Asos. Coast’s trading record is quite volatile, so this is not on the face of it a licence for Kate to print money.
If you look at Kate’s background, what Coast stands for, and its plans for the next few years, it’s clearly a good move for her. Although her time at Asos was short, she will have picked up valuable experience from its ecommerce and international developments.
Nick Bubb, independent analyst
Nicola Wensley, associate director, recruitment firm Michael Page
with Bostock saying both areas were “high priorities” after addressing the mainline. “I’ve always thought it’s been a bit of a token gesture with Coast – I believe in doing something with conviction or not at all,” she said. However, Bostock was confident about the future opportunities for the business. “There is nothing worrying me about Coast. It’s got a unique brand profile. As I’ve done throughout my career, I’ll be focusing on what the core customer wants and keeping an eye on the competition. I am very confident and can’t wait to get cracking.” Despite the negative comments surrounding her short-lived stint at Asos, which ended in July after just seven months, Bostock is upbeat: “I don’t regret anything in life and I certainly don’t regret going to Asos. But Coast feels instinctively right for me and if I’d had the choice of Asos or Coast earlier in the year, I’d definitely have taken Coast.” The job was offered to her by Lovelock, who is a friend and has acted as a mentor for a number of years. She replaces Margaret McDonald, who has relocated to the US to head up lingerie retailer Victoria’s Secret. Coast has 373 stores and concessions in 26 countries.
It is the perfect meeting of minds – the perfect solution for all of us. She has worked with Liz [Evans, chief executive of Oasis and Warehouse] before and Gemma [Metheringham, joint MD of Karen Millen] and obviously we know each other, so there are lots of friendly faces. Derek Lovelock, chairman, Aurora Fashions
AUGUST 24 2013 /
Drapers
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NEWS
Lukewarm reception for M&S campaign By Catherine Neilan Moved on: Young joined last November
Eliot Young makes Thomas Pink exit
Thomas Pink international director Eliot Young has left the company after less than a year in the role. Young joined the shirt retailer in November last year as international franchise and wholesale director, tasked with helping to lead an overseas push. Thomas Pink confirmed Young’s departure but could not reveal when he left the business. A spokesman told Drapers an announcement about Young’s replacement would be made at a “later date” and declined to comment on whether the position would be filled on an interim basis. It is not yet known whether Young has a new role to go to. Before joining the shirtmaker, Young was interim head of sales for Europe, the Middle East and Africa at premium outerwear brand Belstaff for five months. Prior to this he was a nonexecutive director at Swedish lifestyle brand J Lindeberg from 2009 to 2011. In its latest accounts for the year to December 31, 2011, Thomas Pink made an operating profit of £1.59m in 2011, compared with £396,000 the year before. It generated turnover of £33.9m, up from £32m in 2010.
Marks & Spencer’s autumn 13 campaign has been given the thumbs down by branding and industry experts, who claim the advert is disconnected from the reality of its mid-market appeal. Industry estimates put the cost of the campaign, which was shot by US photographer Annie Leibovitz and features actress Helen Mirren, artist Tracey Emin, Olympic boxer Nicola Adams and US Vogue creative director Grace Coddington, at a low-seven-figure sum. It will appear in print, online, on billboards and TV. But one brand consultant, who asked to remain anonymous, told Drapers it was “misguided”. “I was blown away by the scale of it, but it misses the point of fashion advertising, which is to create desire. “A fashion advert has to make you love something and this is not what this campaign is about: it’s about spending an awful lot of money in the mistaken belief you can turn
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The whole thing looks really good, but with such broad appeal the message is liable to get a bit lost. “M&S has missed the chance to target and hone in on a particular segment, which was one of the things the autumn collection was supposed to be addressing.” Saunders also raised concerns over the juxtaposition of the imagery with the experience in store, saying the two “jarred”. “The marketing is one step removed from where M&S is in practical terms. Advertising should always set the tone rather than being totally rooted in reality, but this brings you back down to Earth with a bump.” One director from a rival retailer said: “It’s a nice idea – take an intriguing perfect dinner party mix of empowered women and have them shot by an incredible photographer – but one that misses the mark on execution and brand relevance. “M&S needs to talk about why we should all love it again, why it is
Sainsbury’s launches Made in Britain ranges By Catherine Neilan
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things around through a huge demonstration of buying power.” James Murphy, founder of creative agency Adam & Eve, which counts John Lewis as one of its clients, applauded the overall concept but questioned whether M&S had “earned the right to play in quite such an aspirational place yet”. He said: “It’s a very confident idea but I wonder whether it’s the right time in the product cycle for them to run this kind of campaign. “If it had come on the back of a couple of massively successful seasons, where people were saying it was back on track, it would make sense to have this amazing ramping up of confidence, but to come at it from their back-foot position feels like it has slipped from reality.” Neil Saunders, analyst at retail research firm Conlumino, agreed. “To have characters like Helen Mirren and Grace Coddington, it’s clear they’ve pulled all the stops out to get icons who appeal to women of all different ages and backgrounds.
Flying the flag: kidswear range includes T-shirts and leggings
Sainsbury’s is looking to bolster its Made in Britain credentials with its first domestically manufactured kidswear line. The supermarket will start selling a range of six children’s T-shirts and three legging styles, produced at a factory in Leicestershire, this weekend. The items, which will be available for three to 12-year-olds, are £5 to £8, in line with non-UK products. Five women’s T-shirts made at the same factory will also go on sale this weekend. Sainsbury’s has been planning the move for more than a year, and first hinted at its plans in an interview with Drapers (March 2 issue). At that time James Brown,
head of Sainsbury’s clothing brand Tu, said: “I would love to get a bit of British back in our clothing. In food it absolutely resonates with the customer, and I believe it could be the same at Tu.” Since then, small Made in Britain elements have been added, but a spokeswoman confirmed this week’s launch means that barely more than 1% of the supermarket’s total clothing production is produced in the UK. Other items include jersey tops and thermal socks. John Carolan, head of buying for Sainsbury’s childrenswear, said: “We’re really pleased to help grow the UK manufacturing industry and it enables us to respond quickly to trends and customer demand.”
Reach for the stars: love it or hate it, people are talking about the M&S campaign
News in brief SuperGroup bosses to cash in Directors and senior managers at SuperGroup are in line for six-figure windfalls if the business meets key targets in the next three years. Chief operating officer Susanne Given will be awarded more than £150,000 in shares as part of the plan. Hans Schmitt, recently appointed managing director of international and wholesale at the young fashion business, will pick up £147,000. Primark takes BHS Bath store The expansion trail at value retailer Primark continues, as it plans to move into the Bath premises currently occupied by BHS. Primark will open in the 36,300 sq ft store in the middle of next year. The move follows last week’s news that Primark will take on the BHS unit in Canterbury next year. Arcadia owner Sir Philip Green sold off 10 BHS leases to Primark in 2010.
different, why it has so much emotional currency – the things it brought us and can bring us again. This would be a tricky ad for a brand in a very confident position – M&S is not there.” An M&S spokeswoman defended the scale of the campaign as setting the future direction of the business. She declined to comment on the cost of the campaign.
OUR FASHION TEAM’S VERDICT The only difference between this campaign and the M&S adverts of old, with Twiggy, Myleene Klass and Dannii Minogue, is the eye-watering expense it must have cost to recruit the likes of Mirren and Coddington, let alone have it photographed by Annie Leibovitz. It’s all a little too ‘in
your face’ and the message is confusing. Some of the women are too high-profile to be believable as M&S spokeswomen. One, at least, is too young for the so-called return to M&S’s core customer. By Emily Norval Read more at Drapersonline.com
Float could help HoF to innovate By Victoria Gallagher
House of Fraser’s return to the stock market could provide the retailer with “much-needed investment” and a greater incentive to innovate, industry insiders have said. Earlier this week it was reported the department store chain was considering floating on the London Stock Exchange in an effort to simplify its complicated ownership structure. It would be the third time HoF has been publicly listed, and it is thought the move could value the business at between £200m and £300m. Brands welcomed the proposal, saying it would usher in a more innovative and competitive culture at the department store chain. “[HoF] is very slow in reacting, it doesn’t do anything very fast and
‘Cumbersome’: HoF’s retail estate
so this could make it up its game,” said one young fashion brand owner. Another added: “In the short term the cash will help with brand extension.” The UK head of one menswear brand told Drapers: “[HoF] is
finding it cumbersome with its retail estates but new ownership could be a positive move. It is investing a lot in the online side, which could benefit from a listing too.” Verdict Retail analyst Honor Westnedge agreed floating would enable the retailer to invest more in its clothing range, attracting exclusive labels or product ranges that would help HoF “differentiate itself in what is a very competitive market”. She added: “Listing on the stock exchange would provide the [retailer] with the much-needed investment it requires to refresh and modernise its whole store portfolio. It would also provide the power to fuel international expansion; without significant investment this could prove a challenge.”
Womenswear is added to Trash Streetwear brand Trash has launched womenswear for autumn 13, available at retailer USC and at www.original-trash.com. The brand, which debuted its menswear range last year, is offering colourful women’s styles including printed crop tops, oversized sweatshirts and body-con dresses. Retail prices start at £18 for a cropped T-shirt. M&S reviews head office jobs Marks & Spencer is reviewing job vacancies at its head office on a case-by-case basis to see whether replacements are “essential”. A spokeswoman said the retailer is focusing on positions that are “essential to the delivery of our strategic plans”, although would not be drawn on specifics. Asian partnership for River Island River Island is expanding its presence in southeast Asia, entering Hong Kong and Malaysia for the first time thanks to a partnership with local etailer Zalora. The deal will mean the retailer’s autumn 13 men’s and women’s collections will be available via a shop-in-shop on Zalora’s site for consumers in Singapore, Hong Kong and Malaysia. Soaring profits at TJX Europe Profits at TJX Europe, the business that includes TK Maxx, surged more than 60% in the 13 weeks to August 3. The European arm of US group TJX Companies increased secondquarter profits from $24.7m (£15.77m) in 2012 to $40.5m (£25.85m), a rise of nearly 64%. AUGUST 24 2013 /
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News
software helps indies go bespoke Made-to-order tailoring business trinity Apparel is seeking partnerships with uK menswear retailers after launching a bespoke tailoring software system. the us firm has partnerships with 20 tailors in the uK and has recently signed up its first men’s retailers over here: Palmer Menswear in Jesmond, Newcastle and six Whiting street in Bury st Edmunds, suffolk. the system allows stores to offer made-to-measure own-label garments including shirts, suits, jackets and coats. there is a choice of more than 1,500 fabrics as well as hand-finished button holes, sleeves, collars and waistbands. giles Henderson, owner of six Whiting street, said: “the suits are of such a high quality, they are good value and the turnaround is really quick. Our customers have been very happy so far.” Wholesale prices for the suits start at £240 for a wool suit, rising to £650 for branded fabric suits.
Timberland bets on clothing gains timberland is aiming to grow sales by 50% in the next three to four years under new owner VF Corporation. the outdoor and lifestyle brand is looking to grow its clothing arm, which makes up 21% of sales, by approaching its 330 existing uK footwear stockists. timberland has 100 clothing accounts. Andy Hewat, timberland country manager for the uK and Republic of Ireland, said: “Independents play a huge part in our business. there are several where we already sell shoes but not clothes, and we want to prove that we deserve to take shelf space away from other brands.” timberland wholesales at £22 for a polo shirt to £64 for an Abington jacket, with a mark-up of 2.7. the move follows the acquisition of timberland by us brand house VF Corporation in september 2011 for $2bn (£1.31bn), which completed this April. timberland’s global sales were $1.5bn (£950,000) in 2012. It aims to reach $2.3bn (£1.5bn) by 2017. For a full interview with Andy Hewat, turn to p20 4
Drapers / August 24 2013
new accessories unveils fyt & co
High street supplier New Accessories Group has launched its own brand for spring 14. Called FYT & Co, the 32-piece range comprises hats, backpacks, holdalls, tote and clutch bags and iPhone cases, all in geometric prints. Wholesale prices range from £4.50 for a phone case to £20 for a backpack.
Karen Millen opts for relaxed look as it ups casualwear offer for autumn 13 By victoria Gallagher
Karen Millen has created a new pared-down look for autumn 13 as it embraces the trend for more relaxed dressing. For autumn, casualwear pieces such as knitwear and denim are as prevalent as dresses. Joint managing director gemma Metheringham told Drapers the range was “more pared down than you would have imagined from Karen Millen in the past”. “there are more casual clothes but still with lots of attention to detail. there is a general trend in fashion towards more separates [and] towards more relaxed dressing,” she added. In May, Drapers reported that across the uK fashion market, sales of party dresses dropped 1.9% in the 24 weeks to March 18, with day dresses down 10%, according to Kantar Worldpanel. Analysts pointed to an increase in the buying of separates as one of the main causes. Metheringham said: “In lots of people’s heads we are seen as a destination for a dress but the biggest growth in our business has been the casualwear side. the leather goods business is growing
Casual attitude: Karen Millen’s latest campaign was photographed by David Bailey
phenomenally and denim is also becoming a larger part.” she was speaking as Karen Millen unveiled its autumn 13 campaign, which will launch across billboards in New York, Paris and London next month. the campaign was shot by British photographer David Bailey, and Metheringham said the focus was “on the clothes and the quality and the personality of the woman who wears them”. the campaign forms part of a wider move by Karen Millen as it
plots its next stage of expansion. It aims to have 400 stores by the end of the year, up from 372 currently, and push further into markets such as China, Central America and the us. It opened two stores in China this year, with a further two planned in Beijing and shanghai. It is also pinning its hopes on the us and has created exclusive collections for stockists there. “We are looking to expand sales in the us by 30% in the year ending next March,” Metheringham added.
scotch & soda’s retail push starts in London By Victoria Gallagher
Young fashion brand scotch & soda is primed for uK retail expansion after opening its third London store this week. On thursday the Dutch brand launched its 590 sq ft flagship at 13-14 Carnaby street. It already has two stores on London’s Westbourne grove: one for scotch & soda and another for its sister womenswear label Maison scotch. Matt Hyland, a partner at property firm Cushman & Wakefield’s retail team, which acts for scotch & soda, said it was planning to open three or four more stores in London and then look at key towns around the uK. target locations in the capital have “strong footfall or great architecture” and include Covent garden. Brighton and Edinburgh will be among the first cities to be targeted further afield, but Drapers understands Manchester, Leeds, Birmingham and Cardiff are also on the agenda. scotch & soda has 120 stockists in the uK and Republic of Ireland, while Maison scotch has 115. Daniel Le sauvage, owner of young fashion retailer urban Vintage in Ipswich, which stocks Maison scotch and scotch & soda, praised the retail expansion. He said: “It’s a good move for us because it will build the brand awareness.”
Batista sells Number Six stake Mark Batista has sold his shares in London menswear retailer Number Six. Batista, who co-founded the two-store premium retailer in 2007 with Chris Dacey, will no longer be involved as of September 1. It is not yet known who he sold his stake to. Number Six’s original store is on Brick Lane in Shoreditch, and a second store opened in Hampstead in February. LFW to hit Oxford Street Oxford Street will team up with the British Fashion Council to celebrate London Fashion Week from September 1 to 17. The Oxford Street Fashion Showcase will see 15 flagship stores including Selfridges, Topshop and John Lewis host fashion forums, in-store makeovers and DJs. Five LFW designers will also dress the street with flags featuring autumn 13 catwalk shots from House of Holland, Matthew Williamson, Topshop Unique, Giles and Alice Temperley.
Make it a treble: the Carnaby Street store will be Scotch & Soda’s third in London
However, Brad Connington, sales assistant at Badger in Brighton, which also stocks both lines, said scotch & soda’s exclusivity was a strong selling point which could be eroded if stores become widespread. “When brands we stock open a
‘It’s a good move for us because it will build the brand awareness’ Daniel Le Sauvage, owner, Urban Vintage
store nearby we tend to either stop stocking them completely or cut down on the collection we sell,” Connington added. Chris Akrimi, sales director at the brand’s uK distributor Zone two, said: “We work very closely with scotch & soda to develop a clear retail and wholesale distribution strategy, which is harmonious for both the brand and our customers. Our emphasis is to provide the correct brand exposure while protecting our existing distribution.” For a blog on Scotch & Soda, visit www.drapersonline.com/blogs
Ex-Tesco food buyer creates tall label A former tesco food buyer, Claire Reed, has launched a British-made clothing brand aimed at women taller than 5ft 8ins (173cm). Although One seven three has initially been set up as an etailer, Reed aims to branch into wholesale next year and plans to target retailers such as Asos and John Lewis. the premium brand’s website, www.oneseventhree.com, went live last week with a small autumn 13 collection comprising two tailored coats, a jacket and a pair of trousers,
News in brief
all produced at the Robert J Hughes factory in Enfield, north London. For spring 14, Reed plans to double the offer by adding four dresses. Reed decided to set up the business after struggling to buy clothes herself. “New Look, Next and topshop do some tall ranges but there are none at a level equivalent to Reiss, Hobbs and Whistles,” she said. Retail prices range from £110 for slim woollen trousers to £225 for a trench coat.
Aiming high: brand’s debut collection includes trench coats and trousers
Didriksons eyes premium stores Swedish outerwear brand Didriksons is looking to grow its stockist base by 20 to 30 in the next three years by targeting premium indies and department stores. At present Didriksons has 120 UK stockists, mostly outdoor retailers. The label, which is celebrating its 100th birthday this year, will target the likes of John Lewis, Fenwick and Liberty, plus London kidswear store Igloo. Wholesale prices range from £19 for a kids’ PU jacket to £113 for an adult’s waterproof parka. M&S suffers IT glitches A series of IT glitches have hit Marks & Spencer‘s 900,000 sq ft distribution centre in Castle Donington in Leicestershire, which could disrupt availability in stores. The warehouse, which opened in May, will eventually be used to fulfil all of the retailer’s online orders. The centre, which was the largest ecommerce hub in the UK when it was built, was heralded as “a key part of M&S’s strategy for the future”. 50 jobs up for grabs at Boohoo Etailer Boohoo.com is recruiting a further 50 full-time employees for positions in its Manchester head office over the coming months. The roles will stretch across the board from the marketing department to distribution and ecommerce, and take Boohoo’s total staff to 650. The move has been spurred by the etailer’s international expansion into Australia, New Zealand, the US and Canada. August 24 2013 /
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News
Rapanui launches basics for younger customers By Victoria Gallagher
Ethical lifestyle brand Rapanui hopes to double its wholesale stockists over the next year after introducing a lower-priced range of basics aimed at younger shoppers. The men’s and women’s short-order brand has launched 12 basic pieces for autumn 13, available in several colour options, as part of an extension to its collection of graphic T-shirts and accessories. Pieces include scoop-neck T-shirts, vests and zip-through hoodies made from bamboo, eucalyptus and organic cotton. Wholesale prices start at £3.98 for a cotton T-shirt to £9.98 for a zip-through hoodie. The brand offers a 2.5 mark-up. Rapanui co-founder Rob Drake-Knight said it hopes to double its 44-strong stockist list by this time next year. “There is always a little bit of reluctance among retailers over trialling new small brands, but this basics range will help,” he said.
Malls lose out as high street footfall rises By Catherine Neilan
Ethical: hoodies are made from bamboo
“We’re interested in building a base with indies but we also want Rapanui to be in the mainstream,” he added. “In the past we’ve always talked about sitting alongside ethical lifestyle brands Howies and Patagonia and there is still a place for us, but now the collection is a lot more fashion forward and I think we could sit alongside young fashion brands but with our ethical USP.”
Greater diversity on the high street is seeing footfall increase, but shopping centres are losing out. British Retail Consortium/ Springboard data published this week showed footfall figures across the UK had improved for the fourth month since the start of the year. July saw an increase of 0.8% on the same month last year, and was up 0.1% on June. However, high streets saw the greatest rise, up 2.3%, with out-oftown areas seeing a 0.9% increase. Shopping centres declined yet again, down 2.3% in July, on the back of a 3% drop in June. Springboard director of retail insights Diane Wehrle told Drapers the diversity of the offer on high streets was tempting shoppers back during the day. “Initially our thoughts were that the night-time economy was bolstering the high street, which is why shopping centres were down – they don’t tend to have businesses open in the evening as well as having been hit quite hard by the closures of multiples,” she said.
“But we’re now seeing a continuation of a trend that started in May, where high streets are on the up while shopping centres are not.” As well as increased leisure and restaurants services, Wehrle pointed to pop-up shops as another example of how town centres have “created a bit of interest” and seen a boost to footfall as a result. “There is a bit of difference in town centres that there wasn’t a year or two ago. Years ago they didn’t want to dilute the retail frontage but now they’ve realised if they don’t put something else there it will be vacant,” she said. Some town centres have been looking to make use of the increasing evening footfall to boost the high street overall. Businesses in Leamington Spa, Warwickshire, which saw footfall increase by an above average 4.4%, tempted shoppers with a series of collaborative evening events including LK Bennett and beauty retailer Space NK, and Jaeger and restaurant chain Carluccio’s. Stephanie Kerr, executive director of the town’s business
Knomo bags given premium rebrand
KeNt & CurweN heads to the us
British men’s heritage brand Kent & Curwen is launching in the US, having agreed a deal with distributor Li & Fung. Trinity International, a division of Fung Group, will act as licensor. Kent & Curwen will open its first US store in Manhattan this autumn, following the launch of its London flagship in October.
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Accessories brand Knomo has relaunched its bag range to appeal to independent retailers. The brand is targeting the premium handbag market having revamped its branding and updated the design and quality of the materials used in the 53-piece autumn 13 collection. Knomo’s aim was to ensure each piece is as lightweight as possible, while retaining the label’s trademark functional pockets. Each bag now features a fox emblem to strengthen the “brand identity” of the range. With wholesale prices from £9 for iPhone sleeves to £165 for
leather luggage, the brand sees itself sitting alongside brands such as Kate Spade and Tumi. Caroline Mackay, brand and communications director at Knomo, admitted it was a challenge to change the brand’s positioning in the eyes of buyers. She said: “We want to make the move from the luggage division of department stores to the main handbag floor. We’ve found that buyers are hesitant when it comes to the functional aspect of the range.” Knomo’s 35 UK stockists include John Lewis, Harvey Nichols, House of Fraser and Selfridges.
Hit the road: footfall in Leamington Spa rose 4.4%
Two regions in England reported July footfall significantly above the UK average – Greater London (4.8%) and the West Midlands (3.2%). Northern Ireland reported footfall above the UK average of 0.8%, up 3%. This was an improvement on June’s 5.9% decline and the region’s first rise in footfall since February. Wales’ footfall was in line with the UK average.
In terms of vacancy rates, Greater London (7%), the Southeast (8.8%), Scotland (10.1%) and the East (10.1%) were below the national average of 11.1%. Northern Ireland and Wales reported the highest vacancy rates, but improved on April’s rates. Northern Ireland fell marginally to 18% from 18.1% while Wales improved, reporting 15.9%, down from 17.9% in April 2013.
ALL DATA FOR JULY 2013, BRC/SPRINGBOARD
ReGIONAL FOOTFALL & VACANCY RATes
improvement district (BID), said there had been an increase in the last 18 months thanks to these one-off events and wider strategic work designed to bring shoppers back to the centre. “Over the last year and a half we have felt we are on track with where we want to be,” she said. “There have been a lot of changes in town in that time, with new businesses opening up and our town branding project that launched in March 2012 is showing excellent results.” Perennial issues such as parking were still a hurdle, but Kerr said she worked with the local council to try and adopt measures such as free parking vouchers at Christmas. “We know it can’t be free parking all the time, but having one or two hours free or even putting cheaper car parks in areas with lower footfall helps. We recognise that for some retailers, particularly independents, it’s a big issue,” Kerr said. But not all towns are seeing an uplift. Wehrle warned that some areas must better understand their local demographic if they are to avoid alienating shoppers. She highlighted Lancashire town Nelson and Northern Irish town Ballymena as suffering from a “disconnect between the profile of the catchment and the retail offer”. Wehrle explained: “Most [towns] don’t pitch at an older shopper – the majority are focused on the younger groups but actually it’s the older shopper who has the cash.” For more trading news, visit www.drapersonline.co.uk/news
Drapersonline.com this week Most read storIes Legal battles on the increase as Karen Millen v Dunnes heads to EU Exclusive: Selfridges raids Mr Porter for menswear director Exclusive: Selfridges’ director of menswear resurfaces at All Saints Bank targets ‘more premium’ brands to improve performance Former Marks & Spencer director Kate Bostock to head up Coast SuperGroup directors to pick up six-figure bonuses House of Fraser ramps up discounts in ‘complete strategy shift’ Former Next Sourcing boss sets up womenswear label
Most CoMMeNted storIes
Visitors offer Pure wish list ahead of autumn revamp Comment: Like a challenge? Try getting to a show at the weekend Comment: Should indies just sit quietly and accept a bad deal? House of Fraser ramps up discounts in ‘complete strategy shift’ Jigsaw to launch in-store concessions
Brit brands line up for hong Kong’s hub show By Catherine Neilan
British heritage brands will rub shoulders with Japanese denim labels and US streetwear brands at the inaugural edition of The Hub trade show in Hong Kong next week. The invite-only show on August 28 to 30 at the Asiaworld Expo complex will exhibit more than 100 “carefully vetted” international names, with around a third from the UK. As well as established brands such as Barbour and Henri Lloyd, emerging British labels such as Orlebar Brown, Realm & Empire and Three Floor are taking stands
Fishing for business: Barbour will be among the British exhibitors at Hub
alongside local designers Johanna Ho and Moustache. Womenswear brand Madeleine Thompson, John Smedley, young fashion label Forever Unique and contemporary label Aq/Aq, which has been rebranded from Aqua, will also exhibit. Other international names include Swedish accessories label Sandqvist, US T-shirt label The Hundreds and Dutch denim brand Blue Blood. The event targets all major markets and buyers from Lane Crawford, Harvey Nichols, Club 21, ImagineX, Bluebell, YGM and Metersbonwe are expected to attend.
The show, which will be biannual, has been set up by entrepreneur and consultant Peter Caplowe, founder and former chief executive of denim brand Evisu, and Richard Hobbs, who has worked across several denim brands including Pepe Jeans London and Real Real Genuine. Hobbs said: “At a time when people are hearing that China’s growth is slowing, this event is evidence that international brands are not reconsidering their Asian expansion plans but are eager to learn more about the industry and how their brands can be a part of it.” AUGUST 24 2013 /
Drapers
7
News
Indies bank on Christmas after inconsistent year
Retailers determined not to miss out as figures suggest shoppers are starting to spend again
Retailers expect this festive season to bring a real boost compared with last year. Adriana Green, co-owner of womenswear store Scarecrow Boutique in Crouch End, north London, said: “Last Christmas was the quietest since we opened, with a lot of customers cutting back, going away, or not bothering with it at all.” Kashif Qazi, owner of denim retailer Utter Nutter in Romford, Essex, said last winter was “very flat
– we had very late trade, with no movement on heavier items”. This year retailers are hoping to be better prepared to boost footfall and consumer spend. Darren Evans, owner of Smart Ass Menswear in Conwy, north Wales, plans to capitalise on the town’s late-night shopping events by putting on some in-store entertainment. “Hopefully people will see what’s here and come back,” he said. Barby plans to host Christmas shopping events for Grace & Glory’s customers. “We do champagne events and have a 15%-off Saturday. Lots of ladies come in together – they invite friends and buy gifts.” Some independents are marketing outside their local areas this year. OD’s has struck a deal with Wigan Athletic FC, which will see the store featured on the electronic advertisement board in the club’s DW Stadium during match day and in the match programme. The store is also planning to text 8,000 customers on Christmas Eve promoting deals and offers following the success of last year’s
I have found that many people prefer to be on a zero-hour contract so they can pick and choose when they want to work or do zero hours if they choose. A four-hour contract, for example, does not provide the flexibility that often befits the student lifestyle. A zero-hour contract means they are free to take any other job that comes up, such as temporary internships or placements within the industry. I have a fantastic relationship with all my team and everyone fully understands the ins and outs of their contracts. Yes, there are benefits for me, but this is easily balanced by the benefits for them.
The key is to have an open and honest discussion at interview stage about what you will be asking them to work and what times they will want to have off. One of my students asked for the entire summer off, which she was able to have as she is on a zero-hour contract. Another, who is staying around the corner from our store for the summer, comes in for an hour each day when we are busy. Imagine trying to get someone on a contract to do that. When term starts again, both girls will go back to their regular hours and nobody has lost out. So many young adults are desperate for any kind of experience
By Anna Matheson
Independent retailers are hoping for a bumper Christmas to lift 2013 sales and are planning a host of marketing strategies and events to tempt customers in-store. After an inconsistent summer of trade, indies told Drapers they were pinning their hopes on a good Christmas. Steve Cochrane, owner of Middlesbrough department store Psyche, said: “The first half of the year was mixed at best. Christmas is vital, provided people hold their nerve and don’t go on Sale before Christmas Day.” Chris O’Dea, owner of contemporary retailer OD’s in St Helens, Merseyside, said he was hoping to “get to Easter [2014] on what we take from Christmas”. Christmas Day falls on a Wednesday and hopes are high for good trading over the weekend before. Grace Barby, owner of Wolverhampton womenswear store Grace & Glory, is considering opening outside of her usual trading hours to exploit the potential for Christmas profits.
LeTTeR TO THe eDITOR With reference to Eric Musgrave’s Opinion column, ‘When does efficiency become exploitation?’ in the August 17 issue, I can certainly understand the concern over the misuse of zero-hour contracts, but there are also some real benefits for employees on zero hours when they are working for a small independent like my own. We have hundreds of young people dropping in CVs every month. Many are fashion students wanting experience in the industry. The majority are not around for the whole year and many go home regularly throughout term time.
8
Drapers / AUGUST 24 2013
Last Christmas: womenswear store Foundation in Cheltenham
Sale, which saw a “queue outside the store five deep and 150 feet long”, said O’Dea. Jo Davies, owner of premium womenswear boutique Black White Denim in Wilmslow, Cheshire, is also planning a new marketing strategy for the Christmas run-up. “We’ll be launching a loyalty scheme in September which we can use to tactically drive more traffic through December by increasing reward points,” she said. Independents have told Drapers that since the recent heatwave, trade has picked up and they are feeling more confident about the year as a whole. Figures published last week by the Office of National Statistics showed a 3% rise in the volume of products bought across the retail sector in July compared with the same month last year, with the amount spent rising by 4.9%. Although the majority of this came from food, non-food also grew. “I’m totally convinced we’ve turned a corner,” Cochrane said. “I’m expecting all of retail to have a huge Christmas.”
within the fashion industry. I am regularly approached by people offering to work for free, just to get a foot in the door. A zero-hour contract can mean these people are able to gain some experience and get paid for it. This may not be how larger retailers treat their zero-hour workers but it definitely is not any form of exploitation where we are concerned. I will be very interested to hear how other retailers respond to Eric’s Opinion and would love to read a follow-up in Drapers. Clare Serjeant, owner, Fox + Feather, 43 Gloucester Road, Bristol BS7 8AD
OPINION Talking Business
‘Etailers must not fall foul of new consumer law’
Comments from Drapersonline.com ‘How to be a junior buyer’ – There is far too much emphasis placed on gaining often irrelevant degrees. Retail experience is far more useful for those looking for a career in buying Anonymous ‘House of Fraser considers stock market return’ – This doesn’t look good for HoF. They clearly can’t sell the business – which as pointed out doesn’t make any money – so floating it is the next best thing as their business isn’t showing any significant interest. However, that would change if their valuation was more realistic. HoF is fundamentally flawed. Walk into their stores and the customer is almost an inconvenience. Local variances do not appear to be taken into consideration and some brands would be shocked at how poorly merchandised their goods are. HoF comes across as a retailer who actually isn’t that bothered other than being HoF. So in turn, why should any potential investors be bothered by them? Darren Hoggett ‘Former Next Sourcing boss sets up womenswear label’ – I have had a chance to see the Isabi range and it is beautifully designed. The brand ambassador concept is a clever way to empower women and allow the customer to see the collection before placing their order on the website Katherine O’Driscoll ‘Jigsaw to launch in-store concessions’ – This isn’t the brightest move... Mark Ashton ‘Bestseller owner takes Zalando stake’ – It won’t be long before it becomes ZALASOS OR ASOSLAND Anonymous ‘Legal battles on the increase as Karen Millen v Dunnes heads to EU’ – Lawyers are the only winners Jose Bloggs ‘Moda spring 14: day one round-up’ – I would report the opposite to this piece. As an indie retailer that has long supported this show, I thought the men’s show was very quiet and downbeat, reflecting what’s happening in our businesses Anonymous
10
Drapers / AUGUST 24 2013
O
nline fashion retailers need to prepare for key changes to the distance selling rules over the coming 12 months. As reported previously by Drapers, the Consumer Rights Directive will be implemented in the UK by June 2014, and will affect existing practices in relation to distance selling and the consumer’s right to cancel. Key changes are the extension of the statutory cooling-off period for distance sales, from seven working days to 14 calendar days, and the introduction of a 12-month cancellation period if the retailer fails to provide relevant information, extending the current three-month period. Retailers should also bear in mind that the collection or return costs for cancelled orders may not
Andy Brian
Solicitor and retail expert at law firm Gordons
‘A failure to give information on the right to cancel could be costly’
be charged to the consumer, unless they have been made aware when ordering that they will be responsible for returning the goods. Retailers will therefore need to ensure their terms and conditions are up to date, and that their delivery and returns processes reflect the new rules. While many retailers will offer a returns policy that is more favourable than the legally required period, a failure to provide requisite information on the right to cancel could have a significantly costly impact. Fashion retailers obliged to accept order cancellations – and therefore issue refunds – for 12 months after an order is placed could end up significantly out of pocket. andy.brian@gordonsllp.com
Talking Shop
‘Collaboration is key to thriving high streets’
I
n the last few years there have been a number of changes on the high street. Among other factors, economic pressures and social trends have led to the demise of some of the biggest names in retail, fuelling discussion about the best way to keep our town centres from disappearing altogether. In larger areas, high streets exist in different forms within inner-city ‘villages’. As retailers considering a location we have to think about what sort of person lives nearby, how many people walk through the street each day, what those people are looking for and what businesses currently occupy space there. Answering these questions allows us to tailor our offering to suit a range of potential customers, widening the footfall net.
Adele Crombie Owner of women’s denim retailer ALC in Edinburgh
‘High street shops can work together to cater to a number of customer types’
Much like brand adjacency and in-store mix, our high street shops can differentiate while also working together to ensure a number of tastes and customer types are catered for. Thinking about Thistle Street in Edinburgh, where ALC is situated, there are customers who feel they can get everything they need from the road – from basics to ballgowns, a quiet lunch to a few drinks after work. All the businesses have strong and varied identities, but by working together as a collection of shops and by reflecting consumer lifestyles we can become a destination street, driving footfall at any time of the day. It’s this collaboration that will hopefully help us lure customers to the street again and again. alceshop.com
‘Start writing that Christmas to-do list now’
I
am writing this on a bright and sunny August morning and uppermost in my mind is the retailing expectation for Christmas. There is a little over 17 weeks to go until this spending jamboree, which translates to about 125 trading days if you open seven days a week, or about 108 if you manage to close on Sundays. Doesn’t time fly when you’re having fun? Consider how things used to be when the festive season was a fairly reliable bet to provide a huge slice of a retailer’s annual takings. A crescendo of several weeks of full-price selling reached a climax on Christmas Eve, to be followed by a clear-out of redundant stock in what was appropriately called the January Sales. In the words of The Way We Were, “Can it be that it was all so simple then?” Probably not, but hindsight usually is viewed through rose-coloured specs. The reality of life now is that, yes, the Christmas period is still very important for most retailers – and literally make or break for some strugglers – but it is unpredictable, somewhat unreliable and certainly not a festival of full-price selling any longer. That ideal situation really is the Ghost of Christmas Past. Further to our report on p8 this week, the calendar this year – which sees Christmas Day falling on a Wednesday – may give retailers more issues to consider than usual. Will there be a last-minute rush on Christmas Eve, or will the weekend of December 21 and 22 be the hectic period that will take the pressure off the final day? Of course, for anyone who works
Eric Musgrave Editorial director, Drapers eric.musgrave@emap.com
outside retail, the Monday and Tuesday, December 23 and 24, are attractive days with which to mop up any outstanding holidays. Whether people choose to go shopping or find other ways to pass the time is an unknown at present. I have a sneaking suspicion that more folk than usual will choose to go abroad for what our American friends call the Holiday Season, which again will have an impact on trading on the high street and online. The overriding factor, predictably enough, will be the weather – and I’m not foolish enough to offer any suggestion of what the climate might be doing in four months’ time. Readers’ comments and observations on the prospects for Christmas and what brands and retailers can and cannot do to maximise the possibilities for business this year are most welcome online or through the time-honoured letter to the editor. On the subject of readers’ opinions online, I’ve been a little dismayed since I returned seven weeks ago by the tone and content of
some of the comments on Drapersonline.com, especially those that choose to hide behind the ‘Anonymous’ tag. I think this is a misuse of the Anonymous facility, which is designed to offer protection to someone who is, for example, whistle-blowing or writing about something that is personally sensitive. We can see the email address of every comment we receive and many of the most ill-considered rants come from the company we have written about. I am all for free speech, but I will be taking a harder line against readers who are offensive or aggressive in their comment and have not got the honesty to put their own name to it. A good point can be made without ranting. Too often a company declines to talk to Drapers on or off the record, and then complains that we have got the story wrong when it appears in print or online. We exist to bring news to the industry and we are all responsible adults here, so I would respectfully urge readers to talk to us rather than ignoring us then complaining about the outcome. I hope you enjoy and approve of the changes we are making to Drapers on a weekly basis. Like a good fashion retailer, we have to keep remerchandising and refreshing our offer. Do let us know what you think, but please, not anonymously. Finally, I was pleased that Kate Bostock has made a sooner-than-expected return to the fashion fray as chief executive of Coast (a business, incidentally, that shares a building with Drapers). For me, Kate is one of the most genuine people in the industry, so this should be good for her and good for Coast.
Drapers is based at Telephone House, 69-77 Paul Street, London EC2A 4NQ Tel: 020 3033 2600 Email: drapers@emap.com All Drapers telephone numbers begin with 020 3033 followed by the extension number shown here. EDITORIAL Editorial Director Eric Musgrave, 2759 Deputy Editor Ana Santi, 2760 News Editor Catherine Neilan, 2771 Senior News Reporter Victoria Gallagher, 2767 Reporter Jill Geoghegan, 2861 Features Editor James Knowles, 2761 Fashion Director Ian Wright, 2763 Junior Fashion Editor Graeme Moran, 2768 Junior Fashion Writer Emily Norval, 2914 Online Editor Keely Stocker, 2762 Group Stores Editor John Ryan, 2997 Deputy Special Projects Editor David Brooks, 2846 Group Art Director Alison Fisher, 2764 Group Production Editor Steve Draper, 2765 Deputy Production Editor Digby Bodenham, 4235 Senior Sub-Editor Alice Hall, 4268 Supplements Production Editor Tracey Gardner, 2769 Editorial Administrator Nadine McKen, 2770 Contributors Simon Adamson COMMERCIAL Group Commercial Director James MacLeod, 2939 Advertising Manager Julia Jones-Collins, 2952 Account Managers Elizabeth Harris, 2994, Natalie Hill, 4305, Rebecca Soni, 2958 Sales Executive Daniel May, 2956 Events and Projects Manager Victoria Hart, 2961 Clubs Co-ordinator Katie Marcel, 2962 Classified Sales Executive Danielle Choyen, 2987 Sales & Event Support Executive Rosie Birchenough, 2964 Sales Administrator Lizzie Fuller, 2696 Production Manager Jo Lambert, 2677 Recruitment Advertising Senior Account Manager Peter Bruce-Smyth, 2985 Recruitment Sales Executives Freya Lucas, 2669, Rebecca Tonkinson, 2991 Senior Marketing Manager Nik Dinning, 2862 PUBLISHING Managing Director, Architecture, Fashion & Building Services Richard Breeden, 2683 Chief Executive of EMAP Natasha Christie-Miller, 2691 PA to Chief Executive of EMAP Clair Sabel, 2692 Subscriptions UK £249, UK independent retailers £195. Europe (by airmail) £342, worldwide airmail £356. EMAP Publishing Ltd. For UK subscription queries please call 0844 848 8858. For all other subscription queries please call 01604 828705. Newstrade Distribution Seymour Distribution Ltd. Tel: 020 7396 8095. Origination by F1 Colour, Copperfield St, London SE1. Printed and bound by Headley Brothers, Ashford, Kent, TN24 8HH. ISSN Number: 1479–1617. Drapers is published by EMAP, part of Top Right Group Ltd. © EMAP 2013 AUGUST 24 2013 /
Drapers
11
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FASHION INDEX
Talking trade
‘House of Fraser float may be the horse to back’ Dan Coen
I
t sounds like House of Fraser may be considering a return to the stock market. The business, which has been the subject of takeover interest in the past year, could be valued at between £200m and £300m if a flotation goes ahead. But will a return to the stock market be good news or bad news for House of Fraser? The truth is probably a combination of the two. The good news is that there’s a lot of liquidity in the market at the moment, interest rates are low, and Goldman Sachs is predicting the FTSE 100 will top 7,500 over the next 12 months. As a result, more and more people are turning to the stock market for their investments. Companies such as Bargain Booze are only helping to fuel this fervour, after shares in Conviviality Retail, the owner of the low-cost off-licence chain, leapt from 30p to 130p on its first day of dealing. Fashion retailers, however, may have a bigger fight on their hands, since businesses in this sector don’t always offer the certainty investors might seek in a public stock, especially as they are influenced by such a wide variety of economic factors. Even so, House of Fraser may still be interesting, as it has recently been enjoying record sales, in part due to its highly successful online offering. As a result, the chain posted a gross profit of £403.8m for the year to January 26, an increase of 4.3% on the previous year. It’s also easy to see why going public might be appealing from House of Fraser’s point of view: its existing capital structure is extremely complex and so the decision to consolidate this aspect of the business shouldn’t come as a very big surprise. From an industry perspective, it will also be good to have another publicly quoted benchmark to consider alongside Debenhams. Analysts at UBS have already suggested that investors should be browsing the retailers for opportunities and House of Fraser certainly has a few feathers in its cap: record sales up 3.3% on a like-for-like basis, online sales up 53% and like-for-like sales up 4.8% for the 13 weeks to April 27, 2013. No one is saying House of Fraser is the perfect business, but the decision to float may help the company to swim even faster.
ILLUSTRATIONS BY NATHALIE LEES
‘Fashion retail businesses don’t always offer the certainty investors seek’
Director, corporate advisory firm Zolfo Cooper
WEEKLY FOOTFALL RETAIL INDEX National UK footfall figures Week 33 – August 12 to August 18, 2013
-0.6%
-2% YEAR-ON-YEAR CHANGE
WEEK-ON-WEEK CHANGE
This week the UK national retail index from Experian Footfall showed a year-on-year decline of 2% with a week-on-week decline of 0.6%. Throughout the week, the year-on-year figures showed a decline but were static on Saturday and rose 4.9% on Sunday. Families are likely to have been starting their back-to-school shopping and perhaps this is reflected in positive footfall numbers. In the regions, Scotland, Northern Ireland and the East of England showed an uplift on the previous year, with the other regions showing a decline.
HIGH STREET SALES TRACKER
Like-for-like sales figures across the high street Week ending August 18, 2013
+5.29% +2.27% Total fashion
Clothing
-3.98% Footwear
It was a good week for the fashion index. Specialist retailers’ results were more subdued this week, while mainstream fashion is beginning to benefit from the pick-up in demand for the recently launched autumn lines. For more information, email Don Williams at BDO at don.williams@bdo.co.uk
DRAPERSJOBS.COM
The UK’s employment hot spot and the most popular roles
The most applied for jobs BRISTOL 24.5%
1. Design 8.3% 2. Merchandiser 6.7% 3. Production 6.2% 4. Sales 6%
Highest growth location (defined by % increase in traffic to DrapersJobs week on week)
5. Buying 4.7% As a percentage of total applications on DrapersJobs last week
AUGUST 24 2013 /
Drapers
13
indie index
Mainstream week ending August 10 MENSWEAR
WOMENSWEAR
Top 10
Top 10
Best-selling brands of the week
Best-selling brands of the week
1
Frank Lyman
1
Meyer
2
Gerry Weber
2
Gurteen
3
Olsen
4
Joseph Ribkoff
5
The Masai Clothing Company
£7,805
3
Gant
4
Magee
5
Olymp
6
Douglas
7
Scott by the Label
8
Camel Active
Gold by Michael H
9
Remus Uomo
Pomodoro
10
Casa Moda
6
Betty Barclay
7
Sahara
8
Lebek
9 10
Top 5
Best-selling categories of the week
tAKINGS tHIS WEEK
+4.6% year-on-year change
£154
£9,984 tAKINGS tHIS WEEK +1% year-on-year change
Top 5
£97
Best-selling categories of the week 1
Trousers
2
Shirts
3
Suits
1
Dresses
2
Tops
3
Trousers
4
Knitwear
4
Jackets
5
Skirts
5
Knitwear
AVERAGE SPEND
Top 5
Week ending August 10, 2013
Brands with the best sell-through
AVERAGE SPEND
Top 5
1
Gerry Weber
1
Meyer Brook Taverner
2
The Masai Clothing Company
2
3
Frank Lyman
3
Douglas
4
Joseph Ribkoff
4
Casa Moda
5
Lebek
5
Magee
Top 5
Brands with the best margin 1
Gerry Weber
2
Joseph Ribkoff
3
Olsen
4
Frank Lyman
5
Gold by Michael H
+2.1%
1
Meyer
2
Douglas
3 FOOtFAll Change for week ending August 10, 2013 compared with same week in 2012
+4.6%
Top 5
Brands with the best margin
Casa Moda
4
Brook Taverner
5
Gant
-4.69% ILLUSTRATIONS BY NATHALIE LEES
+8.21%
AVERAGE MONtHlY tAKINGS
PROFIt MARGIN
+16.78%
AVERAGE NuMBER OF uNItS SOlD
Data for July 8 to August 4, 2013, compared with the same period in 2012. Data provided by Top to Toe, fashion industry stock management and EPoS specialists (Top to Toe: 0845 130 3535)
Drapers / AUGUST 24 2013
FOOtFAll Change for week ending August 10, 2013 compared with same week in 2012
66 THe big number
indie WATCH
Comparative four-week periods (2012 v 2013) for the UK independent retail sector
14
Week ending August 10, 2013
Brands with the best sell-through
%
of men’s indies haven’t started selling autumn 13 (compared to 77% of women’s)
General Enquiries 01392 876390 | Customer Service 0800 294 3373 | Official sponsor of JosephRibkoff.com
ECOMMERCE
Battle of the social climbers Social networks are adding new features including transactional elements to attract users
I
Words by KEELY STOCKER
t started way back in 2000 with a little site called Friends Reunited. In 2003 MySpace was launched, closely followed by Facebook in 2004 and in 2006 along came Twitter. And for a while, these were the only social platforms the average individual took any notice of (unless you were pre-teen, and therefore Bebo was just for you). Fast-forward to 2013 and not only are a number of social start-ups vying for attention, but between the original giants competition is booming as each launch new features. Instagram is still a relatively new social platform, having launched in 2010. It started as a social sharing site that allowed users to apply a filter to photos and then share them with friends. However, in June this year, Instagram (now owned by Facebook) decided to incorporate video sharing into the application, which many see as an attempt to compete with Twitter’s Vine app, launched in 2012 to allow users to create and share videos. In 2010, image-sharing social platform Pinterest became the site others wanted to replicate. This resulted in the launch of Facebook Collections, Amazon Collections and US platform Wanelo, but these all took things one step further by adding a transactional element.
SAN FRANCISCO-BASED social platform Wanelo was founded in 2010 and as of August 2013 had more than 10 million registered users compared with Pinterest’s 70 million, reported in July. While the sign-up process is slightly clunky, once a user has joined they can follow people and brands on the site as well as save products to a wish list. So far, very Pinterest. However, what Wanelo also allows users to do is click through from a product to buy directly from the retailer’s own website. Pinterest responded this month by adding a ‘pin price’ feature to its site, which lets users see the current price of a product. However, a link to the retailer’s transactional site has not yet been included. Amazon Collections works in the same way as Wanelo and directs users to buy product from the Amazon site. Facebook Collections (which is currently in testing stage with 11 retailers, including Fab and Etsy) sees the original social giant taking a step in Pinterest’s direction, although like Pinterest the current tool does not allow users to buy but just share and save product images. Rachel Waller, digital marketing manager at fashion portal Farfetch, says of the new 16
Drapers / AUGUST 24 2013
Timeline: social media’s twists and turns 2011
2010
Snapchat
2004
2011
Flickr
2004
Wanelo
2005
2010
Bebo
Ask.fm
INST
2012
2010
2003
Myspace
2006
2009
Facebook Collections
Chatroulette
2003
2013
1999
Friends Reunited
platforms: “Facebook Collections is an extremely interesting development for us. I think if Facebook really wants brands to develop their presence within the platform they need to offer stronger commercial tools, and Collections is absolutely a step in the right direction for this. “My only reservation lies in how it develops this, as ultimately I don’t think replicating Pinterest in a different environment guarantees success (the fact Vine has continued to grow despite Instagram video is proof of this). I think to make this work Facebook needs to either really shake up the model or layer in some of its own network strengths like user data. I think there’s
Facebook needs to either really shake up the model or layer in some of its own strengths Rachel Waller, digital marketing manager, Farfetch
Vine
2013
Amazon Collections
huge potential in Wanelo and Amazon Collections, purely from the fact they are very directly promoting the commercial/shopping angle through new social user behaviours. The growth of Wanelo has been astonishing.” What this does is show a change in social media that many retailers have been waiting to see which takes the platforms from viewing to buying tools. Many retailers have struggled with how to quantify the return on investment when it comes to their business’s spend on social media, and this will allow them to see exactly what social platforms can bring to them. However, what does remain to be seen is the uptake of the transactional element in a social space. The features certainly seem to fit better than the creation of Facebook Stores in 2011, which saw many retailers shut their stores on the site shortly after opening them due to poor sales, but it will be the retailers that find the balance between appealing content and great product that will prove to be the real social climbers. For breaking news from the online fashion sector, make sure you visit www.drapersonline.co.uk/news
retail space
Old and new: the store combines its Georgian premises’ high ceilings and large windows with bespoke contemporary fixtures and fittings
Not so Common place Common People’s first store showcases the heritage brand’s Made in Britain collection in Edinburgh’s coolest area
F
or its first store, British menswear heritage brand Common People has stayed true to its ethos of focusing on provenance, premium quality, craftsmanship and local sourcing to create a contemporary retail space with a distinct identity. A Georgian townhouse in Stockbridge, the ‘mini Shoreditch’ of north Edinburgh, is the site for the store, which is arranged over a raised ground floor, covering 600 sq ft of retail space. The design studio for Common People, which is headed by Kestin Hare, formerly head designer for Nigel Cabourn, has been relocated to the building from elsewhere in the city. The shop’s neighbours include contemporary interior boutiques, barber shops, bistro pubs, cocktail bars, delis and Dick’s, a well-regarded menswear independent.
Edinburgh is Hare’s hometown and he explains why it was the right venue for this retail adventure. “I believe in this city. We already had our studio here and Stockbridge is really up and coming. Edinburgh as a whole is like London without the bad bits.” Started as a footwear brand about five years ago, Common People has been under Hare’s direction as a clothing brand for more than two years. May Trading, whose factory in Bow, east London, produces much of the outerwear, is a partner in the business. About 85% of the autumn 13 collection is made in the uK and this will rise to 95% for spring 14. Retail prices run from £65 for jersey, from £85 for shirts, from £95 for knitwear and from £120 for jackets. Among the brand’s 14 uK stockists are Weavers Door in Liverpool, Accent in Leeds,
Stuarts London and Cruise, a few miles away in central Edinburgh. Overseas customers include Isetan in Japan, Lane Crawford in Hong Kong and China, and Steve Alan in the uS. Common People’s signature style of modern heritage is reflected in the interior’s blend of vintage with clean lines. Hare calls it “a minimal luxe feel with bold industrial features”. He designed the lighting units, which are made from reclaimed army bed frames. An impressive salvaged stainless steel table is the centrepiece of the selling floor. In keeping with its Made in Britain ethos, the company collaborated with local and uK-based firms to achieve its desired effect. The fabric for the fitting-room curtains and chairs is a 14oz waxed selvedge denim from Dundee-based Halley Stevenson, which provided cloth for Common People’s autumn 12 collection. The wireless till system runs through an iPad app called Ipos, which has been developed by Intelligent POS, a company based in nearby Leith. This will play an important role in the future of multichannel retailing for Common People, creating a virtuous circle between online and its new fixed showcase. 46 St Stephen Street, Edinburgh, EH3 5AL commonpeopleclothing.co.uk AuGuST 24 2013 /
Drapers
17
SHOPWATCH
Office, Oxford Street
It may be small for a flagship, but the retailer’s latest effort should punch above its weight in terms of sales Words by JOHN RYAN
THE BASICS Address 190 Oxford Street, London W1D size 4,200 sq ft
T
store design Eastcoat number of in-store employees 50
here are some retailers that have their moment in the sun and some that remain looking bronzed and beautiful even when the clouds set in. Office looks like one of the latter. Visit any branch and it’s almost always got shoppers trying on a pair of flats, sandals or modishly vertiginous stilettos – even men get a pretty stylish look in. The new store on Oxford Street is a flagship, and shoppers wishing to see the best Office has to offer need look no further. And in spite of the multiple mid-market brands stocked, this is best viewed as a branded house, rather than a house of brands, as styles tend to be grouped by type and occasion. There is little mistaking the fact this is a young fashion offer. It is also another stage in the gradual rehabilitation of Oxford Street’s eastern end.
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shelf life: toms gets its own display, but most of the range is merchandised by style, not brand
Still, this is Office and own brand also plays a considerable part at the more entry-price end of things, for men and women. And it is the mix that really creates charms for this store and is probably why there were so many shoppers on the floor on the evening of visiting.
SErvICE 6/10
FormAT AnD vISuAl mErCHAnDISIng 7/10
This is a large square-shaped interior that does make the job of merchandising and dividing up space more straightforward than in many other stores. The right-hand wall features a series of curved white frames that provide a stylish setting for the ‘sport’ and canvas casual shoes on offer. The majority of these are brightly coloured and the shop is therefore about offering a backdrop that will appeal to those in search of a fashionable interior, without it distracting too obviously from the merchandise. Across the floor from this there is a rather more conventional series of backlit shelves with a protruding wider shelf at the base of the perimeter. Generally, the shoes are arranged by type with heeled styles, flats and boots all having their own areas, meaning the tendency may be to look at shape first and brand afterwards. This is counter to what some other multi-brand footwear retailers on Oxford Street tend to do, where the brand comes ahead of almost anything else. The mid-shop has relatively unobtrusive fixtures with glass tops, allowing the stock to once more
take precedence. At the front, however, there is a square table with blue neon tubes around its sides. This does catch the eye and makes this more of a fashion interior than might otherwise be the case. A big sign at the back relates the fact that ‘MENS’ shoes are in the area, which does leave you wondering where the men’s collection begins and how it might impinge on the women’s offer. This is the only category indicator in the shop. All in all, this is a totally respectable mid-market fashion environment, although lumbering it with a flagship label may be asking a little too much.
ProDuCT 8/10
Most of the current fashion bases are touched on in this store and there is a plentiful selection within each footwear type. At £100, the Dr Martens are where you’d expect them to be in terms of price, and men can also expect to choose from a catholic selection of desert boots, as well as more formal styles. The bulk of the action is aimed at women however, and with everything from Havaianas flip-flops to Ted Baker high heels there is no shortage of choice.
This is going to sound like a bit of a whinge, but there was a slight sense of being pounced on. All well and good if you’re tolerant but there are times when the greeter and incessant enquires about whether you are “alright” can be a mite tiresome. That said, there was no danger in leaving you to your own devices, and as a selling vehicle, this was where it probably should be in terms of attitude. It had, however, mildly crossed the line that divides service from pestering.
DoES IT work? 7/10
Well, yes it does, but rather more thanks to the store layout and merchandise appeal than to the manner in which things are sold. On this reckoning, you might be inclined to say price and product are the two major determinants of success in this ‘flagship’ store. As for its being a flagship – it is a pretty small one and this might be more to do with its Oxford Street location than with its magnitude. Indeed, there are several shoe shops along the strip that are larger than this one. All of which notwithstanding, the sheer volume of 28 people visiting this shop must make it a success, however you happen to gauge 40 such things. to see more pictures from this store, go to www.drapersonline.com/news/shopwatch AUGUST 24 2013 /
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Timber merchanT
Tasked with increasing Timberland’s sales by 50% over the next four years, Andy Hewat is focusing on clothing and women’s footwear for spring 14 Words by Jill GeoGhaGen Photography by ToM CaMPBell
MONTH 00 2013 /
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Date November 7, 2013 Time 12.15pm - 5.00pm Location The Waldorf Hilton, London
BOOK YOUR TABLE NOW
guesT bookiNg eNquiRies Lucy Trevor 020 3033 2661 lucy.trevor@emap.com
Why you should attend: ● Join us for a celebratory lunch to reward innovation and talent within the independent fashion retail industry ● Network with the leaders of this exciting sector
spoNsoRship oppoRTuNiTies Rebecca soni 020 3033 2958 rebecca.soni@emap.com Category SponSorS
● Raise your company’s profile ● Celebrate and build better relationships with your colleagues Call Lucy Trevor on 020 3033 2661 to book your place
drapersindependents.co.uk
@drapersindies ChoSen Charity
ANDY HEWAT I THE DRAPERS INTERVIEW
T
imberland’s country manager for the UK and Republic of Ireland, Andy Hewat, has a daunting task on his hands: to help grow the outdoor clothing and footwear brand by 50% in the next three to four years. It’s an objective set by US brand house VF Corporation, which acquired Timberland in September 2011 for $2bn (£1.27bn) and completed the official integration into its portfolio in April this year. “VF is the biggest global branded apparel manufacturer and has an overall goal of being a $17bn (£10.8bn) business by 2017,” Hewat explains. “Timberland, like Vans, North Face and the other brands under VF, has to grow 13% year on year between now and then in order to do that. It’s a challenge, but we can absolutely grow our business by 50% in the next three to four years by getting the apparel side correct, no question.” Turnover at Timberland in 2012 was $1.5bn (£0.95bn) globally and the company aims to reach $2.3bn (£1.5bn) by 2017. Although no figure was available for the UK specifically, it is the fourth-largest market for the brand and has a “significant” yield. For spring 14, Hewat’s focus is firmly on clothing and he is aware of the challenges he faces. Despite being in the clothing market since 1988, Timberland is currently sold through 100 doors in the UK, including John Lewis and independent department store Psyche in Middlesbrough, compared with a 330-strong stockist base with 550 doors in footwear. Clothing makes up 21% of total sales. The lack of detail in previous clothing collections led to criticism from some Timberland stockists. Craig Oliver, menswear buyer at Jules B, which has eight stores in the Northeast, says: “There’s nothing wrong with Timberland’s product but there isn’t really a reason to buy it. With our other outerwear brands, like Barbour for example, there are more selling points and more attention to detail. They need to move the product on; it’s not that different to how it was years ago. Customers today want that bit more for their money.” Hewat says the appointment of Rene Skytte – former product director for Europe, Middle East and Africa at North Face – as Timberland’s vice president of global apparel in January 2012 has been instrumental in addressing these issues and driving the clothing arm on in “leaps and bounds”. He adds that Timberland has taken its approach to fashion “up a step” by focusing on the quality and detail of the garments produced in the 1,200-piece menswear collection. “Take my [Timberland] shirt for example. I shouldn’t be wearing a slim-fit shirt – that ship sailed for me a long time ago,” laughs Hewat. “That’s one of the problems we’ve had at Timberland, the cut and the blocks of the garments weren’t correct. Customers were coming in and they didn’t know their size,
so we’ve addressed that issue. We are also making sure the finishing touches are right, that the best buttons are used with a four stitch, that the collar stays down, that the fabric on the hem doesn’t fray in the wash. These finishing touches and detail are what it’s all about.” Hewat says he will target Timberland’s existing footwear stockists with the clothing line, which wholesales at £22 for a polo shirt and £64 for an Abington jacket, with a mark-up of 2.7. “We have to make sure we are placed with the right people. We have to work harder and smarter at John Lewis,” says Hewat – the brand’s clothing is currently in 18 of the retailer’s department stores. “I also want to sign up for [mainstream trade show] Moda next season as independents play a huge part in our business. I want to prove to them that we deserve to take shelf space away from other brands,” he adds. Hewat also admits that Timberland’s women’s clothing line has been “slow to get out of the blocks” and, as a result, the brand is “starting from scratch” in terms of design. The 200-piece collection for spring 14 – only the third under
year. Timberland will kick off the birthday campaign – called ‘Best Then Better Now’ – next month, with a pop-up shop in Selfridges’ London store on September 3. The pop-up will be located opposite the concession of high street footwear retailer Office – the brand accounts for 8% of Office’s sales – and feature styles from the 1970s through to today. “It’s about taking the Timberland message, visualising it and bringing it to life for the consumer,” says Hewat. “The 10061 boots we had back in the day were the best boots then, but now Timberland is [bigger] than it was before.” Other consumer-driven incentives include an “anniversary tour” within the Timberland retail stores on Regent Street, in Westfield London in White City, the Trafford Centre in Manchester and in Glasgow, beginning September 26 and running until October 19, which will allow shoppers to get their purchases customised with laser printing. A limited-edition collection of 1,973 pairs (1973 being the year the brand was founded) of the original 10061
It’s a challenge, but we can absolutely grow our business by 50% in the next three to four years by getting the apparel side correct global design director for apparel and accessories Camila Vesth – is more feminine than previous ranges, with nipped-in waists featuring belts, drawstring cords and reinforced seams. The women’s range will be available at the brand’s 19 standalone stores, 11 franchise stores in the UK and four wholesale stockists. Women’s footwear, which makes up 30% of Timberland’s footwear business, is a priority for Hewat. “[Sell-through] is coming through from some of the major stores now that we didn’t have previously, possibly because other brands may have softened in the market and they feel Timberland is well positioned to take advantage of that,” he says. Wholesale prices for footwear currently stand at £29 for slip-on shoes, £40 for boat shoes and £72 for boots. One stockist told Drapers that price points for the boots are too high and despite liking the style, customers are put off by the price tag. But Hewat insists that while it tries to be competitive, the brand’s premium positioning means it wouldn’t consider “going to war on prices” or introducing a sub-brand. He adds that the label “swallowed cost wherever possible” to keep pricing competitive for spring 14. The spring 14 collection will be preceded by a consumer-led marketing campaign for autumn 13, as part of Timberland’s 40th anniversary this
Timberland boots will also be available in selected independent retailers, including footwear retailer Hanon in Aberdeen. When asked about expansion plans for 2014, Hewat says Timberland has no intention of opening more standalone stores, as the brand’s existing ones are already “in the right locations” across the UK. Likewise, it is not seeking to extend its footwear accounts as it doesn’t wish to “saturate the market” – it wants instead to increase the offering of women’s shoes within the retailers it currently trades with. Hewat says Timberland has tidied up its wholesale distribution over the past year in order to protect the brand and ensure it is placed with the right retailers. “We’ve stopped dealing with certain customers that we didn’t feel were right for the brand,” he explains, declining to give names. “In the past Timberland would have had a lot of business with the discount channel that we never needed for a premium brand like ours.” He adds: “We looked at what acquisitions are going on in the market and we walked away from around a dozen accounts. It hits your numbers when you start walking away from retailers that had a lot of business with you but it’s for the greater good of the brand. Timberland had to take control of its own destiny.” AUGUST 24 2013 /
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THE BUZZ
GOODS BY THE GOODHOOD STORE
Fashion foreword
‘Ethics are part of the puzzle, not the whole solution’ Ian Wright
East London streetwear indie The Goodhood Store has launched its own label, aptly named Goods. The 20-piece menswear collection, which is designed in-house, retails from £35 for a tie-dyed T-shirt to £149 for an Oxford shirt. It will be available at wholesale for autumn 14.
I
f the past few months have taught us anything about how fashion is produced, it’s that there is a need like never before for transparency, ethics and reform in manufacturing. The Bangladesh factory disaster brought into sharp focus all the things about some parts of the industry it seemed easier to ignore, in the hope that they would either sort themselves out, or at least not go wrong. But the inconvenient truth came out and the way our clothes, shoes and accessories are made went straight to the top of the agenda, both inside and outside the industry. When I spoke to Andrea Panconesi, chief executive of Italian luxury retailer Luisa Via Roma, at Pitti Uomo in June he was banging the drum for Made in Italy fashion, as you would expect. “Our clients don’t want Chinese-made products,” he said. “They want Made in Italy because they know the difference in quality.”
Contact: 020 7729 3600 www.thegoodhoodstore.com
Small is beautiful for etailer Elfin
Trendwatch
‘There is something a little self-righteous about a lot of noise around organic, sustainable, ethical fashion’ As true as that may be, there is something a little self-righteous and ever so slightly smug about a lot of the noise around Made in Insert Country Name Here, organic-certified, sustainable, eco-friendly, ethical fashion. Don’t get me wrong, I’m an advocate of better produced pieces, made by people who have been paid properly and from materials that are both in plentiful supply and not shipped thousands of miles around the globe. But there comes a time when all that can only do so much. Putting aside the higher cost argument, using any of the aforementioned attributes as the sole reason for a product to exist counts for absolutely nothing if said product is ugly. Yes, I’m sure your dresses are well-made by a single artisan in the depths of the Scottish Highlands from recycled yak hair, but that doesn’t mean I can, or should, look beyond your garment’s appearance. Someone’s got to want to actually wear a garment. Is a balance of ethics and aesthetics too much to ask? Drapers fashion director / Ian.wright@emap.com 24
Drapers / AUGUST 24 2013
Baum und Pferdgarten
Whiite Marimekko
MATCHY-MATCHY
The spring 14 catwalks at Copenhagen Fashion Week took twin sets in a new direction, with matching printed separates seen across a spectrum of brands and markets. Matching sets offer customers three outfits in one, as pieces can be mixed or matched with other items.
While plus-size brands have come on leaps and bounds in the past few seasons, arguably less attention has been paid to the slimmer market. As such, shoppers in sizes two to eight will welcome last week’s launch of womenswear etailer Elfin, the brainchild of founder Natalie Rogers. This is Rogers’ first business venture and the idea was born out of her own struggle to find suitably small-sized clothing. Setting her sights on high-end names, she’s argued her case convincingly, signing up brands including Kelly Love and Manley to design exclusive bespoke petite collections for Elfin. Other brands include Draw in Light, Rebecca Taylor and footwear from Kat Maconie, in clothing sizes two to eight and shoe sizes one to four. The etailer is the first of its kind to supply premium labels exclusively for the smaller-sized market. www.iamelfin.co.uk
this week’s hero
Boxfresh
Thinking outside the box: the oversized fits reflect the sporty trends seen on spring 14’s catwalks
Next year marks the 25th anniversary of streetwear brand Boxfresh and celebrations are well under way with the launch of a special-edition capsule collection for spring 14. The 12-piece clothing range includes long-length T-shirts (wholesaling at £16 to £18), shorts (£22) and jackets (£39 to £62). There are also four trainer styles (£24 to £27). It’s directional by Boxfresh standards, with oversized fits reflecting sporty trends seen on the spring 14 catwalks from the likes of Raf Simons and Shaun Samson. Technical fabrics add a premium feel, such as seam-sealed chambray and reflective 3M. Available for March delivery, order now for a piece of Boxfresh history. Contact: 07872 801209 www.boxfresh.co.uk
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DIRECTIONS I THE STYLE COUNCIL
What’s new in womenswear for spring 14?
The panel
LAURA GRUMBRIDGE Shop manager at The Village Bicycle in Notting Hill, west London
u Kate Coughlan There’s a nautical theme on its way for spring 14. Designers have added a retro spin to it, with the return of the wide-leg jean. Vintage-style prints feature on fit-and-flare dresses (Little Mistress, pictured) and knitwear. Another new trend sees African inspiration bringing an injection of colour. There’s a real mash-up of prints in exotic colours.
q Laura Grumbridge We’re focusing on the streetwear trend this season and looking for unique prints that work well with our branding. We love upcoming designers such as WIA (pictured) with its eccentric prints on jersey, and also LA brand Hellz Bellz. There is a notable surge in upcoming talent this season. We’re lucky to be in a time where fashion and art can cross over.
KATE COUGHLAN Branded and accessories buyer, womenswear, at USC
JO HOOPER Head of womenswear buying, John Lewis
CONSTANZA DI GENNARO Operations manager at Wolf & Badger, which has two stores in London
p Jo Hooper Sportswear continues to be a very strong trend for spring 14, with a modern take on the 1940s, combining wide-leg culottes, boxy shell tops and cropped tees in sun-bleached pastels. Layering is key, with new tropical-inspired prints paired with clean, modern sports-inspired separates for a contemporary look, with a gentle nod to Hawaiian retro chic (Kenzo resort 14, pictured).
t Constanza Di Gennaro So far my personal favourites have been matching pieces. [Directional] womenswear brand The P is showcasing great monochrome patterns in blazers and cropped trousers, perfect to combine with bright colours. My favourite silhouettes have come from [London label] Syo Kai (pictured), which looks perfectly tailored and relaxed at the same time. Shorts have been popular in spring 13 but for spring 14 they seem to be established as a wardrobe essential.
WANT TO BE PART OF THE STYLE COUNCIL? Visit www.drapersonline.com/stylecouncil to tell us your thoughts on this week’s question
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brandwatch
Petal power: masculine silhouettes are combined with ditsy florals
Mauro Grifoni
The Italian label looks set to win over UK buyers with its latest womenswear collection Words by ian wright
THE BASICS Wholesale Prices €45 (£39) for a skirt to €421 (£362) for a leather jacket
D
Website www.maurogrifoni.com
contact 020 7851 7140
espite having around 600 worldwide stockists, such as Lane Crawford in Hong Kong and 10 Corso Como in seoul, Mauro grifoni is relatively unknown on these shores. At present the only way for British shoppers to buy the Italian brand’s womenswear collection is to look to overseas-based etailers such as Yoox and retail portal Farfetch. But with a collection as strong as its spring 14 range on offer, the
opportunity for uK stores to get in on the act is one not to be missed. Alessandra Rossi, commercial director of multi-brand at Yoox-owned luxury etailer thecorner.com, which has stocked the brand for five seasons, agrees. “Mauro grifoni’s collections are full of essential items which combine great workmanship with a perfect fit. they are easily adaptable and suit the needs of our savvy clientele,” she says. “the brand’s ethos, which also applies to its pared-back, simple menswear collections, is laid-back luxury with an Italian twist,” explains Ilaria sesso, Mauro grifoni’s womenswear creative design director. throughout the spring 14 collection, sesso highlights “a very strong nature theme with a series of exquisite floral
prints”. this comes through in wallpapery patterns across neat cropped trench coats (€238/£205), silk crêpe day dresses (€166/£143), statement stretch-cotton gabardine wide-legged trousers (€63/£54) and delicate silk and cotton blouses (€91/£78). the collection, which will be delivered in February and has a mark-up of 2.8, is saved from a death-by-ditsy-florals by its more masculine, boxy silhouettes and blending of the aforementioned delicate fabrics with more hard-wearing materials. the compact ranges are planned to include 30 individual pieces, each boasting up to 10 different fabric, print or colour options, with an additional 20 accessories lines making for a more rounded and commercial offer. August 24 2013 /
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Streetwear Spring 14
Dream NatioN Its bold prints and colours ensured Polish brand Dream Nation turned heads on its UK show debut. Organic cotton and bamboo are used in the women’s, men’s and kids’ ranges, and pieces include an Aztec-print dress and a reversible women’s hooded top with a print on one side and block colour on the other. Wholesale prices range from £24 for shorts to £58 for a dress with bumbag. Contact: 00 48 518 955 331 www.dreamnation.eu
Margin
M
Words by James Knowles
argin returned with its usual mix of fresh designers and international brands for the spring 14 edition, which took place at its new Hilton London Olympia home on August 4 and 5. When Drapers visited on the second day exhibitors said the show had been quiet, but Margin’s organisers have since reported a healthy turnout including buyers from the likes of Asos, Joy, and etailer Original Native. To see more brands from Margin, and coverage from all the season’s key trade shows, go to www.drapersonline.com/fashion
SeveN liveS
Get Cutie
Designed by Johann Earl, who has created ranges under her name for Urban Outfitters for the past nine years and Asos for the last two, Seven Lives aims to specifically appeal to the indie market and was launched at Margin. The womenswear brand’s 32-piece collection includes pretty summer dresses, sweatshirts, T-shirts, jackets, skirts, blouses and vests. Wholesale prices range from £9 for a T-shirt to £16 for a striped monochrome sheer shirt. Contact: 07815 596585 www.johannearl.com
This Brighton-based womenswear label showcased a range of fresh silhouettes for spring 14. The brand has reinvented its cap-sleeved dress, which used to come in just three cup sizes, by giving it a universal cup size to make it suitable for women of all shapes. It also unveiled a more fitted 1950s-style halterneck floral-print dress with a fuller circle skirt. Wholesale prices range from £24.50 for a skirt to £30.47 for a dress. Contact: 01273 688575 www.getcutie.co.uk
iNk apparel Men’s and women’s brand Ink Apparel made its global trade show debut at Margin with a 23-piece spring 14 collection including capes, maxi dresses, crop tops, vests and T-shirts. Inspired by Indian and African textile prints, the garments are individually screenprinted and painted by hand, and predominantly made from organic cotton. Wholesale prices range from £12.72 for a T-shirt to £33.58 for a cape. Contact: 07866 739082 www.inkapparel.co.uk 28
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cLIMbINg THe LAddeR I Careers
How I got here Lynne Henderson
New Look’s outerwear buyer has learnt to live in the fast lane working for the young fashion chain ➝ What does your diary look
like today? Jam-packed. We are coming into our peak production time on outerwear so have a large fit session to review the key lines, plus we have one of our leather suppliers here to look at new developments, as this is a key growth area for us. What meeting are you most looking forward to today? Seeing our leather supplier, brainstorming some ideas and working on some new jacket developments. What task do you wish you could postpone? Probably our fit session. Although it’s a vital part of my role, it can be quite stressful going through each jacket to ensure they are perfect for the fit and that all of the components are correct before allowing the factories to start production. How did you get to where you are today? I’ve always loved fashion. I studied for a degree at Heriot-Watt University, which through a lot of hard work and determination then resulted in a role as store manager at New Look. I was then able to rise quickly
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through the company to become a buyer. What I love most about this role is seeing product through from initial design concept to shopfloor. What has been your career highlight? Our autumn 12 performance. The outerwear team achieved record-breaking sales and profit performance, as well as our lowest-ever markdown for the department. An equally rewarding part is seeing girls wearing our product out and about. If you could change one thing about your career path, what would it be? I wouldn’t change anything. I think certain things, such as my store background, have meant I’ve gained a full understanding of our customer. This has since helped me greatly with my buying decisions because I always have our end customer at the forefront of my mind. Who is your mentor? Our buying director Roger Wightman. What‘s the best piece of advice he’s given you? “Always think of the customer in everything you do.”
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CV 2011 Outerwear buyer, New Look 2010 Assistant buyer, tailoring department, New Look 2009 Buyers’ admin assistant, tailoring department, New Look 2007 Assistant manager, Peterhead store, New Look 2007 Graduated with a BA Hons in Textile and Fashion Design Management, Heriot-Watt University
➝ How do you see your career
progressing? I’d like to continue developing in my role as a buyer and broaden my experience into other product areas to reach senior buyer, and eventually head of buying.
➝ What advice would you give
to someone wanting to follow in your footsteps? My main pieces of advice would be to stick to what you believe in, always be passionate about the product and most importantly listen to your customer. If you could work in another area of fashion, what would it be? I really enjoyed my time working in stores and would be interested in trying something totally different to buying such as visual merchandising. It would be interesting to learn how to lay out our stores to excite our customer and at the same time make it easy for her to shop. Salaries for this position range from £40,000 to £60,000, plus benefits (estimate provided by Freedom Recruitment)
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If you want to be featured on the Drapers Jobs page, email james.knowles@emap.com
1 8
8
The UK’s leading specialist retail recruitment consultancy.
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Buying & Merchandising Technical, Production & Sales Design Digital & Marketing Retail Operations International successapppointments.co.uk
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APPOINTMENTS TO ADVERTISE CONTACT: Rebecca Tonkinson 0203 033 2991 rebecca.tonkinson@EMAP.com Freya Lucas 0203 033 2669 freya.lucas@EMAP.com DEADLINES: 4 days prior to publication. Cancellation 1 week prior
WHITE STUFF is
Recruiting!
The South West’s leading Discount Retail and Leisure Group requires
Want to work for a Times Top 100 Company? WHITE STUFF is recruiting for experienced retail professionals in Merchandising, Technical and Shop Management roles. Established in 1985, White Stuff has grown to over 100 shops and concessions selling women’s and men’s clothing as well as beautiful accessories and homeware. We aim to put ‘happiness in every stitch’ of what we do and each of our shops supports its own local charity through the White Stuff Foundation. We offer a competitive salary and all the usual benefits; bonus and pension schemes, 33 days holiday, discount on White Stuff products and two days off each year to work in the community. For more information on our current vacancies, visit www.whitestuff.com Or get in touch at lovelyhqjobs@whitestuff.com!
Trago
®
CLOTHING/FOOTWEAR BUYER
Trago Mills operates from its Head Office in Cornwall, with 3 large retail sites in Devon and Cornwall.
A great opportunity has arisen for an experienced, commercially driven Buyer to join our team. Key areas of responsibility will include: • Product selection and buying • Identifying new product development opportunities • Stock, Budget and Margin management • Competitor Analysis Reporting to the Group Buying Manager, the successful candidate will be an established, professional Buyer with a proven track record in driving sales through appropriate stock selection and management. Multi sector experience would be an advantage. If you enjoy working in a challenging, competitive environment and have a flair for attire, then this could be the position for you. The role is rewarded by a competitive salary and benefits package, including generous staff discount and pension scheme. Please apply in writing with your full CV and current salary details to: The Chairman, Trago Mills Group, Twowatersfoot, Liskeard, Cornwall PL14 6HY or email: bruce.robertson@trago.co.uk Previous applicants need not apply.
ACCOUNT MANAGER ROLE IN LADIES OUTERWEAR Suzanne Martin is an established Family run Ladies Outerwear Manufacturers based in Stratford, East London. We are currently seeking a Sales/Account Manager to take over and grow existing accounts and to also open new accounts. The ideal candidate will have experience in selling Ladies Outerwear to High Street and Mail order in UK and Europe and will also have contacts in the business to bring on board. Salary Highly Competitive based on experience Please send CV and cover letter to: Martin Dupay - martin@suzannemartin.co.uk John Dupay - john@suzannemartin.co.uk Or call on 0208 983 1247
To advertise in this section please CONTACT: Rebecca Tonkinson 0203 033 2991 rebecca.tonkinson@EMAP.com 30
Drapers / AUGUST 24 2013
suzanne martin
plc
Merchandising Opportunities THIS YEAR MONSOON CELEBRATED ITS 40TH BIRTHDAY. NEXT YEAR ACCESSORIZE CELEBRATES 30 YEARS ON THE HIGH STREET, AND WE COULDN’T BE PROUDER!
Working for Monsoon Accessorize is exciting. It’s a chance to be a part of a truly ethical fashion business whose values put people first; whether that’s the service our customers receive, the suppliers who produce our exceptional product, or ensuring that our staff love working for us and have fantastic career development opportunities. We have also been helping to improve the lives of disadvantaged women and children in Asia since 1994 via the Monsoon Accessorize Trust. With over 1,000 stores in over 73 markets, it’s important we have great people to merchandise our stock. With teams looking after product, branch & e-commerce merchandising, and branch planning; we are always on the look out for great talent. Our global size means you can be confident whatever your career style, we have an opportunity for you! To find out more about the roles we are recruiting for at the moment or to register your interest with us please visit www.monsoonjobs.com. YOUR LIFE. YOUR WORK. YOUR STYLE.
Discover
Discover the future of retail * Careers at Ansty Park, Coventry Knitwear Technologist Clothing Technical Manager Junior Footwear Technologist Assistant Fabric Technologist People imagine we’ve got a time machine in Ansty Park. But our people don’t need to make a quantum leap through a wormhole. Our Technical Managers and Technologists are always looking ahead to future trends, future ideas and future design. The future of retail, happening here, happening now. Visit sainsburys.jobs
* Time-travel optional
sainsburys.jobs
APPOINTMENTS TO ADVERTISE CONTACT: Rebecca Tonkinson 0203 033 2991 rebecca.tonkinson@EMAP.com Freya Lucas 0203 033 2669 freya.lucas@EMAP.com DEADLINES: 4 days prior to publication. Cancellation 1 week prior
MATERIALS INNOVATION MANAGER NOTTINGHAM, UK – Very attractive + excellent benefits + bonus
Founded in 1928, Speedo is the world’s leading swimwear brand. Speedo products are distributed in over 170 countries around the world. Speedo has over 80 years of heritage and expertise in swimwear, apparel and equipment based in or near the water. Job Purpose: To lead the Materials Development function for the creation and delivery of world class innovation and material technologies to build Speedo’s competitive advantage across all consumer segments and product categories. To manage long term strategic partnership plans with key vendors of raw materials together with service level agreements, performance monitoring and costing negotiation and agreement. Responsibility for the sourcing and development of new material vendors where strategic gaps appear.
VISUAL MERCHANDISER NATIONWIDE (FIELD BASED) – IDEAL LOCATION GREATER LONDON – £competitive + company car + benefits Join Eastpak and you’ll also become part of the VF Corporation, the global company behind some of the world’s leading lifestyle brands including The North Face, Vans, Lee, Wrangler, 7 for All Mankind, JanSport and Kipling. You’ll be responsible for driving sell through of the brand in a range of key accounts, providing instore merchandising support and staff training; ensuring sales are maximised, presentation standards are high and store teams are fully conversant with our products. Meeting customers and building long term relationships will enable you to negotiate key in-store locations and window space as well as provide regular feedback to the Sales team on sell through, stock information and competitor activity.
SEWING MACHINIST - HIGH QUALITY MENSWEAR BLACKBURN – Market-led salary A great opportunity for Sewing Machinists to join a successfully growing brand Our client is a heritage menswear brand producing beautifully crafted outerwear, denims and trousers. Applications are invited from from sewing machinists with experience of working in a production environment, ideally producing high quality outerwear.
SHOP MANAGER KENSINGTON– £18,000 + bonus As a Trinity Shop Manager the difference you make could add up… We are seeking a retailer with experience of the book market and the ability to recognise the value of a wide range of contemporary and second hand books. You will join in our thriving network of over 20 shops in central and south west. In addition to stylish, contemporary fashion boutiques, we have a specialist bookshop and furniture shop. If you’re passionate about retailing and want to learn more then email download a job pack atwww.trinityhospice.org.uk. If you have applied for this position in the last 6 months, please do not re-apply.
SHOP MANAGER HAMMERSMITH – £21,000 + bonus As a Trinity Shop Manager the difference you make could add up… At the leading edge in charity retailing, Trinity Hospice has a thriving network of shops in central and south west. In addition to stylish, contemporary fashion boutiques, we have a specialist bookshop and furniture shop. If you’re passionate about retailing and want to learn more then download a job pack at www.trinityhospice.org.uk
MENSWEAR DESIGNER ESTONIA, TALLINN – Will be agreed The Baltika Group is a fashion retailer operating five retail concepts: Monton, Mosaic, Baltman, Bastion and Ivo Nikkolo. Group brands are represented in Eastern and Central Europe. Baltika employs a vertically integrated business model which means that the Group controls all stages of the fashion process: design, manufacturing, supply chain management, distribution/logistics and retail sales. Baltika Group second biggest brand Mosaic has been offering easy and stylish everyday fashion for women and men who are practical and have a need for uncomplicated and reliable fashion that makes them look elegant and stylish. We are looking for a Fashion Designer to join the team of Mosaic brand!
KNITWEAR TECHNOLOGIST PETERBOROUGH, CAMBRIDGESHIRE – £20-£29000 We require an experienced knitwear/jerseywear technologist to work in our head office in Peterborough. The candidate needs to be an organised individual who can work under pressure and is a team player. The main duties include organising and attending fit sessions with customers, measuring samples, sending comments to our factories, organising garment lab testing etc. Experience of managing ethical compliance will be an advantage but not essential. The successful candidate will deal with major super markets and high street retailers, and with our factories in Bangladesh, Romania, and China. This is a great opportunity for someone to join a fast moving expanding team.
CONSUMER INSIGHTS EXECUTIVE (12 MONTH FTC) FINCHLEY, NORTH LONDON – Very attractive + excellent benefits + bonus Pentland Brand’s Headquarters in Finchley, North London was awarded best corporate workplace in the UK on completion in 2003, and in 2008 we were voted the best family business in the UK by the Institute of Family Businesses. Most recently we were also recognised as one of the UK’s Best Workplaces 2012 by Great Place to Work®. Key Purpose of Job: Build on increasingly high profile and value of insights within Pentland, helping our brands make better, more informed decisions. Managing insights in the areas of Bought (market data), Thought (consumer research) and Sought (future Trends). Deliver a value-driven (third wave) Global Brand Tracker including management, analysis and presenting.
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APPOINTMENTS TO ADVERTISE CONTACT: Rebecca Tonkinson 0203 033 2991 rebecca.tonkinson@EMAP.com Freya Lucas 0203 033 2669 freya.lucas@EMAP.com DEADLINES: 4 days prior to publication. Cancellation 1 week prior BUYING CO-ORDINATOR LONDON – £Competitive +benefits Oasis creates a beautifully designed range of clothing and accessories for the customer who makes confident purchases from a brand who gives originality, great quality and a consistent fit. Oasis collections are fashionable, wearable, and colourful and are synonymous with quality, value and unique design. We are currently looking for a Buying Co-ordinator to join our Head Office teams. We have roles in our Accessories or Tailoring department and our Outerwear and Leather department. The Candidate: Strong commercial awareness and a passion for the brand. Self motivated. Excellent communication and organisational skills. A fashion or business degree or qualification is preferred. Some relevant work experience. Good numerical skills. GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2648500’ ASSISTANT BUYER LONDON – £Competitive We are currently looking for an Assistant Buyer to join our busy Buying team. At The Dune Group you will be able to use your passion for footwear and fashion, to gain and develop a keen and commercial eye for the product. As Assistant Buyer you will play a vital role in assisting the Buyer in the sourcing and development of a balanced product range which achieves planning deadlines through effective management of the supply chain. Passionate about our brand and product you will be committed to a career in buying, organized and proactive. This is a fantastic opportunity for someone looking further develop their buying career!
MAA (MERCHANDISE ADMIN ASSISTANT) LONDON – £Competitive +benefits We currently have an opportunity for a Merchandise Admin Assistant to join our Merchandising team. The role of an MAA is the key link between head office and our stores, co-ordinating across many central departments in order to ensure that the right stock is delivered to the right stores at the right time. You will be the main support to the stores for all aspects of stock management. We are looking for individuals who have the drive and passion to start a long term career within Merchandising & Distribution. You will aspire to work for the brand, be highly numerical and organised. GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2648506’
IMPORT MERCHANDISER MANCHESTER – Competitive Salary We have an excellent opportunity for an experienced import merchandiser to join a leading importer based in Manchester. You will ensure the right product is delivered on time, manage and maintain the critical path, compile costing and margin sheets, liaise with buyers and Far East factories. The successful candidate must have previous experience of dealing with large retail customers, be proactive and able to communicate clearly with all parties. GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2649323’
GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2649509’
SOURCING MANAGER LONDON – Competitive Salary Our client produces children’s and ladies underwear and sleepwear for major high street retailers. Due to business demands they now have a fantastic new role for a Sourcing Manager to join their business. Reporting to the Compliance Manager you will help develop the supplier base, enhancing current practices and seeking the best opportunities for commercial ventures as well as managing the production usage of those suppliers. Extensive knowledge of manufacturing, garment construction and overseas compliant SE Asian factory manufacturing base would be an advantage. GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2649460’
HEAD OF DIGITAL & CRM – JEWELLERY AND SILVERWEAR BRAND LONDON – GBP35000 - GBP40000 per annum Seeking an innovative, hands-on and self-motivated Digital Marketing and CRM Manager to be responsible for driving sales through the development and maintenance of the company database and website. Our client is a fine jewellery and silver brand looking for an online expert to join their small and electric head office team. You will oversee all digital marketing, web development and CRM to drive traffic and sales to the website. GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2648059’
SENIOR GARMENT TECHNOLOGIST (MEN’S TAILORING) EAST MIDLANDS – Salary up to £45,000 Our Client is a successful leading supplier of garments to a major high-street retailer in the UK with an immediate exciting opportunity for a Senior Garment Technologist. You will be reporting to the main Technical Manager and to plan and carry out technical and quality processes to ensure all products meet the very highest standard required for the relevant customers’ quality, make up, fit and measurements. To be suitable for this role you must have 5 years’ experience as a Garment Technologist, an in-depth knowledge of tailoring manufacturing techniques and willingness to travel in the UK and Overseas (Asia). GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2649058’
MENSWEAR GRAPHIC DESIGNER - FASHION LIFESTYLE NORTH OF ENGLAND – Up to £25,000 A rare chance to join this brand and work with menswear labels with rich heritage! We seek on their behalf a talented MENSWEAR DESIGNER. In this role your duties will include research through trade shows, comp shop, etc to bring together seasonal trends, creating artwork for graphics, designing apparel ranges and creation of specs for sampling. Advanced Photoshop / Illustrator ability is essential. GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2649452’
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Drapers / AUGUST 24 2013
SENIOR TAILORING DESIGNER LONDON – Competitive Leading manufacturer of Ladies fashion tailoring with our own factories in Vietnam and head office in London. Producing ladies fashion tailoring for both the UK high street retailers and overseas. Due to further growth, an exciting opportunity has arisen within our company for an experienced Senior Tailoring Designer. We are looking for a highly motivated, creative individual with a minimum of five years’ experience. You should be methodical with great attention to detail, in addition to a working knowledge of current fashion trends. Applicants must be motivated, hard-working, organised and a team player. GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2649312’
FIT MODEL - PART TIME ANGEL, NORTH LONDON – £competitive hourly rate We are currently looking for a fit model to join our Eastex brand. Smart and sophisticated, Eastex is the destination shop for all your seasonal essentials. You will find a range of looks to suit all occasions, as well as great updates for your everyday wardrobe. Eastex is an established collection available in sizes 10-20, providing you with quality and comfort without compromising on style. As a Fit Model for Eastex you will model all clothing samples to ensure consistent fit across the brand and will also provide administrative support to the team. GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2648681’
DESIGNER STOCKPORT, UK – Very attractive + excellent benefits + bonus Canterbury’s commitment to developing innovative and high performance sportswear is recognised across the globe, with athletes from all sporting disciplines opting to wear Canterbury BaseLayer and Compression products. Canterbury Compression is proven to enhance blood flow, wick sweat away from the body and aid recovery, ultimately increasing levels of sporting performance. Key Purpose of Job: Support the senior designer in the creation of seasonal product ranges. Bring creativity and out of the box thinking to the brand. Establish new ideas that stimulate originality and creativity within colour, print, graphics, fabric & styling. Deliver product ranges with the consumer and distribution channels in mind. GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2647430’
DESIGNER - DASH ANGEL, NORTH LONDON – £competitive + bens At Jacques Vert Group Limited we believe that our success is a reflection of the outstanding people that work for us and we are therefore fully committed to recruiting, retaining and rewarding talented individuals. We look for individuals who are passionate, commercially minded, and inspirational; and who enjoy working in an innovative and fast evolving environment. Our design teams are pivotal in delivering the successful collections for our brands. We have an opportunity for a Designer to work in our Dash brand. This role will be a multi-product role with a strong focus on casualwear. The Dash brand offers a classic yet modern collection for all occasions. GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2648322’
SENIOR MERCHANDISER SOUTH EAST - TUNBRIDGE WELLS, KENT – Negotiable An exciting opportunity has arisen for a full-time Senior Merchandiser to join the rapidly growing and awardwinning Childrensalon team at our Head Office in Tunbridge Wells, Kent. You should have strong merchandising experience and the ability to lead and develop a team. You will lead the merchandising team to manage and control the OTB every season, analyse sales performance, stock levels and provide weekly and seasonal reports for the buyers and leadership team. You will regularly attend buying appointments to meet brands as well as assist the buyers in quantifying their orders. GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2648660’
JUNIOR BUYER LONDON, W12 – £Competitive THE OUTNET.COM is NET-A-PORTER’s sister brand and the most fashionable fashion outlet store online. With an expanding domestic and global market, and revenues increasing month on month, critical strategic change is on the agenda, in order for us to achieve the objective of dominating our sector as a truly successful force in online retail. Working in our London HQ, we have an opportunity for a Junior Buyer with designer and super brand ladies wear experience to join our buying team. You will be tasked with enhancing THE OUTNET’S offering to its customers, developing relationships with new and existing designers whilst ensuring maximum value and efficiency for the business. GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2648486’
BUYING ASSISTANT SOUTH EAST, TUNBRIDGE WELLS, KENT – Negotiable An exciting opportunity has arisen in our buying team at our busy head office in Tunbridge Wells, Kent. You will work as a part of a small, fast-paced team and responsibilities will include updating buyer spread sheets, order confirmations and correspondence with our many designer brands. You should have at least 1 year of buying experience, strong Microsoft Excel skills, and be a follower of luxury brand fashion with a keen interest in childrenswear. The ability to foster strong relationships with high end brands is essential; equally is being able to work in a challenging atmosphere whilst retaining a flexible, open and calm attitude. Italian language is desirable. GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2648663’
PRODUCT MARKETING MANAGER LONDON, W12 – £Competitive
With an expanding domestic and global market, and revenues increasing month on month, critical strategic change is on the agenda, in order for us to achieve the objective of dominating our sector as a truly successful force in online retail. As such, we are seeking a Product Marketing Manager to maximise & maintain product exposure on THE OUTNET website. Reporting to the Website Manager, the successful applicant will be responsible for management of the Website Merchandising and Product Marketing strategy within the THE OUTNET Sales & Marketing team. The Product Merchandising Manager is responsible for driving sell through and conversion by managing the maintenance of the website and ensuring all products are accurately represented, stylishly merchandised and smartly promoted.
GO TO DRAPERSJOBS.COM AND SEARCH FOR ‘2648485’
Register today for personal job alerts sent direct to your inbox AUGUST 24 2013
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SERVICES DIRECTORY TO ADVERTISE CONTACT: Dani Choyen 020 7728 4603 danielle.choyen@emap.com DEADLINES: 4 DAYS PRIOR TO PUBLICATION. CANCELLATION 1 WEEK PRIOR
In Store Products and Services EPOS
“We believe that we help retailers serve customers to world class standards”
t: 0844 544 1108 e: sales@trcepos.co.uk www.trcepos.co.uk E-COMMERCE
etailPR
AMAZON | STOCK CONTROL | BESPOKE WORK | METAPACK | PROVEN RESULTS | AFFILIATES | RETARGETING | TWITTER | BLOGGER NETWORK | EMAIL MARKETING | EXPERIENCE | VIDEO INTEGRATION | RELIABILITY | FREESTYLE MERCHANDISING | INDUSTRY INSIGHT | MULTI CHANNELS | INTERNATIONAL | FACEBOOK | EARLY ADOPTION | LONG PARTNERSHIPS | BIG BRANDS | PAYMENT GATEWAYS | CAMPUS ADVERTISING | MEDIA BUYING | BEHAVIOURAL DISPLAY MARKETING | DIGITAL PR | ADVANCED ANALYTICS | COLLABORATIONS | TRANSLATION | AMAZON | STOCK CONTROL | BESPOKE WORK | METAPACK | PROVEN RESULTS | AFFILIATES | RETARGETING | TWITTER | BLOGGER NETWORK | EMAIL MARKETING | EXPERIENCE | VIDEO INTEGRATION | RELIABILITY | FREESTYLE MERCHANDISING | INDUSTRY INSIGHT | MULTI CHANNEL | INTERNATIONAL | FACEBOOK | EARLY ADOPTION | LONG PARTNERSHIPS | BIG BRANDS | PAYMENT GATEWAYS | CAMPUS ADVERTISING | MEDIA BUYING | BEHAVIOURAL DISPLAY MARKETING | DIGITAL PR | ADVANCED ANALYTICS | COLLABORATIONS | TRANSLATION | AMAZON | STOCK CONTROL | BESPOKE WORK | METAPACK | PROVEN RESULTS | AFFILIATES | RETARGETING | TWITTER | BLOGGER NETWORK | EMAIL MARKETING | EXPERIENCE | VIDEO INTEGRATION | RELIABILITY | FREESTYLE MERCHANDISING | INDUSTRY INSIGHT
Proven Fashion E-Commerce Experts
Call 0845 130 3535 or visit: www.toptotoe.com GARMENT STANDS KENNETT & LINDSELL LTD EST 1913 Consultants and specialists in the design and manufacture of garment stands for all aspects of clothing production. Design, fitting, standardisation and quality control
Tel: 01708 749732 Fax: 01708 733328 www.kennettlindsell.com sales@kennettlindsell.com Drapers Ads 2012A_Layout 1 30/01/2012
RETAIL SUPPLIES
0800 45 11 22 morplan.com 36
Drapers / AUGUST 24 2013
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websites that work 01242 238373 | info@etailpr.com | etailpr.com
RETAIL SUPPLIES
STEAMERS
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By Appointment to Her Majesty The Queen H & L Russel Limited Manufacturers of Garment Hangers
Hangers & Display Products
London Studio 020 8808 8157
SWEATSHIRTS
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CLOTHING SOFTWARE
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Speak with our consultants we can meet all your hanger needs. Multi-channel business systems for the apparel industry Wholesale Retail Internet Selling
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Redrose Software Ltd T:
0208 123 8280
www.redrosesoftware.co.uk
T: 01268 889000 E: sales@russel.co.uk Hanger specialist: zoer@russel.co.uk www.russel.co.uk
Manufacturing GARMENT CMT
GARMENT LABELS
Halcyon Blue
Top quality woven and printed labels + swing tickets Express service for washcare labels (Small orders our speciality with quick delivery) Phone TODAY for our FREE catalogue and information pack Tel: 01484 888844 Fax: 01484 888800 Email abaines@eastman.co.uk Also contact us for:cutting room papers, poly bags, shoulder pads etc www.eastman.co.uk
Manufacturing a division of Halcyon Blue Ltd
Specialist manufacturers of high quality swimwear and underwear • Cut, make and trim • Sampling work • Small runs welcome www.theclothesfactory.co.uk 0870 977 0380 or 07795 412190
Garment Manufacturer in Bulgaria based Petrich
In House Embroidery & Silk Screen Printing Service
Competitive Prices
Weekly production up to 15K garments
Bulk Order - Fast Tunaround 24hr Design Service
Tel 01254 823014
CMT FACTORY IN LONDON
OVER 25YEARS EXPERIENCE, SPECIALISE IN LADIES COATS/JACKETS, WELL EQUIPPED FACTORY, CAPABLE OF 1500PER WEEK, ARCADIA GROUP APPROVAL, PLEASE CONTACT 0207511 0033 capricorn97@btconnect.com
Woven Labels • Printed Tickets Carrier Bags • Self-Adhesive Labels Ribbon • Gift Boxes • Packaging Tissue Paper • Logo & Label Design
PRIVATE LABEL SHIRTS
T: 020 7249 8260 F: 020 7249 5751
Clothing production factory of womenswear and menswear. Specialising in T-shirts, S-shirts, Sweatshirts, Scarves and Belts. Versatile manufacturer, very short lead times. Small and big quantities welcome. ISO, Sedex registered Fabric sourcing and design services available. email: info@sirioustextile.bg’ High quality British manufacturer has spare capacity, experienced in patterns and development for top designers. Jersey garments our speciality. Well equipped factory. Tel 07779 961217
EMBROIDERY & SCREEN PRINTING
e-mail: sales@adastralabels.com www.adastralabels.com
PRIVATE LABEL & MTM SHIRTS Are you a high-end menswear retailer looking to provide a more tailor-made service? We are the UK’s leading supplier of quality private label, RTW & MTM men’s shirts. We offer low minimums, short-lead times and quality fabric collections.
We have full capabilities of pattern making and grading design cut make and trim in house facilities for embroidery and printing. Please call for details on 07887 643 377.
Contact:
grahamdelve@esquirescollections.com
07966 171370 AUGUST 24 2013
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SERVICES DIRECTORY TO ADVERTISE CONTACT: Dani Choyen 020 7728 4603 danielle.choyen@emap.com DEADLINES: 4 DAYS PRIOR TO PUBLICATION. CANCELLATION 1 WEEK PRIOR
Fabric & Accessories FASHION FABRICS
TEXTILE WHOLESALE
Suppliers of one of the best top quality European linings, with over 90 colours in stock and a further 140 colours available upon request. We also stock poly-wool suitings, dress and fashion fabrics. Ahmad Linings UK est. 1976 Tel: 01274 727069 Fax: 01274 390 407 Email: linings@ahmadtextiles.co.uk NB: We also buy all types of redundant/obsolete fabrics and trimmings with an immediate decision and pay cash or bankers draft prior to collection from small to large quantities. Can collect anywhere in the UK or abroad
Importers and wholesalers of Luxury Faux Fur to UK Manufacturing www.ambassador-textiles.co.uk info@ambassador-textiles.co.uk
Huma Fabrics
Suppliers of fashion/textile fabrics 37A Skeltons Lane Fabric House Leyton E10 5BT
GB Wholesale Ltd Fabric importers established in 1958
Carrying a large and varied range of fabrics. Bi-stretch bengaline, suitings, stripes, checks and much more
Contact Paul 0208 447 5905 or 07939111193 email gbwpaul@live.co.uk www.gbwholesale.co.uk
www.drapersonline.com
Contact: 07903368616
www.theliningcompany.co.uk
Importers, Exporters & Wholesalers of Textile Fabrics For Ladies Fashion Industry. Unit 5, Hayes Metro Centre, Springfield Road, Hayes, Middlesex UB4 0LE
shop@theliningcompany.co.uk 0844 800 3630 JEANS BUTTONS
Email: info@missiontextile.com UK Sales Office: 020 8813 7711
Sales Agents required, Apply Now. The widest choice of press studs, jeans buttons, jeans rivets, eyelets, popper tape and trouser hooks.
TRIMMINGS 41169 Barnett Lawson Order form.qxd:••
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A fantastic range of over 12,000 items: Braids, buttons, cords, fringes,ORDER fringe curtains, feathers, flowers, insertions, elastics, lace, ribbons, personalised printed ribbons, ric-rac, rigilene, diamanté, pearl & sequin trims, tie-backs, tubular crin, Velcro, bridal trims, millinery supplies and much, much more. If we don’t have it, we can source it! Visit our transformed website! 16/17 Little Portland Street London W1W 8NE T: +44 (0) 20 7636 8591 F: +44 (0) 20 7580 0669 E: info@bltrimmings.com W: www.bltrimmings.com
To MESSRS
EMPEE SILK FABRICS LTD, we carry one of the largest selections of fabric in the UK. We carry a huge range of plain and printed Satin, Lace, Organza, Velvet, Foil, Cotton, P/C, Fun fur and many more. All under one roof; 31 Commercial Road, Edmonton, London N18 1TP. Tel: 020 8887 6000 Fax: 020 8887 6045. Email: empee@wholesalefabrics.co.uk Web: www.wholesalefabrics.co.uk Redundant stocks bought for cash.
Durable Fasteners Ltd. 430 Kingsland Rd, London E8 4AA Tel: 020 7254 6713
ORDER No.
A/C No.
ORDER No. DATE
ARTICLE No.
DESCRIPTION
UNIT PRICE
16-17 Little Portland Street, London W1W 8NE T: 020 7636 8591; F: 020 7580 0669 E: info@bltrimmings.com; W: www.bltrimmings.com
Notice board STOCK WANTED
LININGS
www.durablefasteners.co.uk
FREELANCE SERVICES
AUTHORISED
Highly Skilled Pattern Cutter With 22 yrs experience. Patterns - Samples - Grading Reliable, Friendly, Efficient Service. Tel: Belinda on 01747 822695
Registered Office: Sentinel House Sentinel Square Brent Street London NW4 2EP Reg No. 2211489 VAT No. GB 494731613 Directors CI Marx GI Marx
www.salvageliquidator.com
WE BUY...WE SELL... Established 1973 Established 1973
From: HAUTE COUTURE WE BUY RETAIL To: HORTICULTURE
OVERSTOCKS WE BUY
Tel: 020 8208 0404 EVERYTHING Fax: 8364 8859 AND020 ANYTHING stock@lssservices.co.uk DELABELLING FACILITY NATIONAL COVERAGE IMMEDIATE Lollipops Boutique 1 REACTION – DECISION – Always Wanted PAYMENT * Customer Returns * LSS Services * QC Faults Unit 6 * Samples * Atlas*Business Centre * End of Lines * Oxgate Lane All cash payments and London NW2 7HJ garments de-labelled Tel: 020 8208 0404 if required Fax: 020 8208 4414 Contact Laura stock@lssservices.co.uk 07950310304 or
lollipopsboutique1@gmx.co.uk
ALL FABRICS BOUGHT from remnants to total bulk clearance, immediate decision and payment. Contact Mark - 020 8993 1068 or 07836 744376
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Drapers / AUGUST 24 2013
• Surplus stock • Late deliveries • Cancelled orders • Clearance lines
caLL noW for immEdiatE action
01923 800074
theoffice@salvageliquidator.com
Stock wanted We are the UK’s no.1 buyer of all designer clothing, shoes and accessories.
eaRn ££££’S today Mixed bundles, current or past season collections. No minimum / maximum. Stockroom clearance is our speciality. Professional, discreet and friendly service with immediate payment & collection to suit you.
01423 872868 - 07971 898477 gillie@merinofashions.co.uk
ATTN: RETAILERS Manufactures/Wholesalers etc We pay MORE for your overstocks as we do not sell your goods on, any quantity Please phone Mr David 0208 736 0088 M: 07836 389 399. Fax 0208 736 0089 or Email buyers@dofg.net
Pattern Problems? Call Jeff Best. Creative & accurate with vast experience. Tailoring or soft casual. Email: patternman@blueyonder.co.uk. Tel: 0208 886 0494
www.drapersonline.com
By instructions of the Joint Administrators of Ego Sales (UK) Limited
ONLINE AUCTION TAJIMA EMBROIDERY MACHINES
THE GRADING BUREAU Computer Grading For all your grading and costing needs.
\ 2 TAJIMA TFMX-II C1504 Electronic FourHead Automatic Embroidery Machines (2005 & 2006) BIDDING ENDS: FROM 10.00AM THURSDAY 22 AUGUST 2013
Childrens, Ladies and Mens. N11 2LX info@datagraf.co.uk
VIEW: TUESDAY 20 AUGUST 2013 BETWEEN 10.00AM AND 3.00PM AT: UNIT 4, MOULTON PARK BUSINESS CENTRE, REDHOUSE ROAD, MOULTON PARK INDUSTRIAL ESTATE, NORTHAMPTON, NN3 6AQ
Tel: 020 8361 1444 D ATAG R A F LT D
www.Lucy-Jane.com Tel: 0208 314 5723
AUCTION
FREELANCE SERVICES
www.gradingbureau.com
Creative Gerber Pattern Cutting Womenswear and childrenswear 1st patterns, digitising and block making services available
Visit eddisons.com/online
T/ 0845 130 3332 15% Buyers Premium
BUYERS GUIDE
We design, source and produce high quality Womens’, Mens’, and Kids’ accessories for the High Street.
TO ADVERTISE CONTACT: Dani Choyen 020 77284603 danielle.choyen@emap.com DEADLINES: 4 DAYS PRIOR TO PUBLICATION. CANCELLATION 1 WEEK PRIOR
Our in-house Design Team works alongside our highly experienced Accessories Quality Control Team, offering reliable back-up, organisation and great prices.
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and Preppi. Contact Details: 49 Knowsley Street, Manchester, M8 8JF Sales Team – 0161 833 4010 Fax – 0160 833 4090 Email – zuppe@btconnect.com Website – www.zuppeclothing.com/collection AUGUST 24 2013
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this fashion life
Topshop was a great one, it was the first time I’d reached a young audience ➝ What was it about Uniqlo that attracted
you? They got my prints really well and that’s so important. If they don’t get you, then don’t bother is my advice. But they were sympathetic to my work and allowed me to enjoy myself. Do you have any influence on the silhouettes or is it just the prints? Well, they tell you they’re going to do T-shirts or scarves, for example, and have blocks they use that are tried and tested. But the gathered trousers in the first collection were our idea. Is it mostly prints from your archives? They’re from the home collection. They’re really furnishing prints and so you just reduce or enlarge the scale. You’ve worked with Topshop, Millets and John Lewis – do you have any other stores in mind? I might be doing a children’s collection with a different high street store. I like a challenge. Things keep happening and it’s a very good profile for me. Topshop was a great one, it was the first time I’d reached a young audience, which was very nice for me. Are textile designers less acknowledged than fashion designers? Yes, so much is done on the computer now and it shows. High street prints now are done on a computer, which I never agree to because you must have hand drawn it first. Then you get the eye, hand and heart feeling from it, but on a computer it’s very cold. Textile designers have a raw deal, not many textile designers have their own name. They get swallowed up by the fashion designer and they take all the acclaim. Have you seen the relaunch of the Ossie Clark [Birtwell’s ex-husband, who died in 1996] label this year? Well, I didn’t really bother to look at it too much. They didn’t speak to me; they didn’t say anything about Ossie’s beautiful past. It’s very hard to go back, it’s all a bit sad in a way as it didn’t really work out as one would have liked. Some of the most famous women in the world have worn your prints. Is there anyone who epitomises your look? [Actress] Rachel Weisz wears my clothes quite a lot. Do you wear much print? Not really, I wear my scarves and some bits of print but I don’t think it suits me as I’m quite short.
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Celia Birtwell
The textile designer talks about her Uniqlo collaboration and why those working in textiles get a raw deal Words by emily norval
Your second collaboration with Uniqlo launched this week. Was it always the plan to do two? Not really. It grew out of just a couple of prints into a full collection for spring 13 and as soon as we finished they asked if I’d like to do one using silks for autumn 13. Silk is a lovely fabric that I’ve always enjoyed using and Uniqlo is also pushing its Heattech fibre, which is interesting for me to work with. I really enjoyed working with them. 40
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Celia Birtwell’s new Uniqlo collection is available now. For the full interview visit www.drapersonline.com/fashion
November 21, 2013 Marriott Grosvenor Square, London W1K 6JP United Kingdom
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