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Food&Wine
samui gazette | aug. 6 - 19, 2010
K THE SHAC — BAR & GCLRAISLSLIC AN ISLAND
Steak photo from wikimpia.org
“In the early days, I grilled all the food myself.” -- Larry Snyder Ask a local who is their favorite restaurateur on Koh Samui, and the one of the names certainly to be listed is Larry Snyder, “proprietor” of The Shack Bar and Grill, a jazz and blues infused open air barbecue restaurant in Fisherman’s’ Village, Bophut. The Shack is not only a restaurant, it’s an institution, filled with locals and tourists (it’s also listed in the Lonely Planet Guide). “Whenever I leave Koh Samui and return, the Shack is the first restaurant I go back to,” says part time is-
land resident Rob Newman. “I love the place. And I love Larry.” I tell people who come to the island that they have to have dinner at The Shack and meet Larry, who I describe as an ‘amped up but loveable New Yorker’” said Newman. Other folks frequently describe Larry as “Rodney Dangerfield like.” And it’s true. Actor Owen Wilson, who frequented The Shack during a visit to Koh Samui is said to do a dead on Dangerfield-like impersonation of Larry. Larry, certainly not a
candidate for the “Healthy Living Hall of Fame,” challenges the limits. Running the always busy restaurant from the back of the bar, one eye on his customers and one eye at the front door, he misses nothing as he commands his staff and enjoys his shooters. Occasionally on a health kick, but usually lapsing, he has developed a huge and loyal customer base. “Watching Snyder work is like watching performance art…” said island resident Marco Maki. “…It’s dinner theatre at it’s finest,” said
Maki. “The food is fantastic. Excellent.” said one local. “But watching Larry and spending time with Larry takes it to another level.” Larry, a lover of music, has jazz and blues playing through the night and the restaurant is decorated with prized jazz memorabilia that he has collected. Larry, originally from New York, ended up on Koh Samui eight years ago. “I always loved to cook,” he said “but usually it was a few steaks on a Weber grill. “I never had a restaurant before the Shack, but at a friend’s suggestion I moved to Koh Samui and before I knew it, I had opened The Shack. In the early days, I grilled all the food myself. But now I’ve had most of my same staff for over five years. They know how to do it better than me, so I don’t get in the way. I work out new menu items and then turn it over to them.” And how’s the food? Larry takes great pride in everything he serves. For appetizers, try the fantastic muscles with Pernod Sauce (the pernod sauce is perhaps one of the best sauces on the island). Another favorite is the butter garlic prawns (the garlic butter is perfect to be dipped in bread later). How about the garlic scallops? Brand new on the menu are oysters with zesty honey mustard dressing which is a new fa-
vorite. The ribs appetizers are also a perennial hit. For the main course, there are delectable lamb chops and steaks of every kind and size, from Australia and New Zealand, plus he now serves the ever so tender Wagyu beef from Japan. If you only want seafood, try the excellent salmon or Alaskan king crab legs. Larry also serves delicious barbeque chicken. And his burgers are arguably the best on the island with sautéed onions and peppers. The menu is varied and interesting, and has something for everyone, including some Thai dishes. Like to drink? Larry has a fantastic wine cellar, and is only happy to open a specially-chosen bottle for you. And if he knows you well enough, he’s happy to bring his own wine glass to your table himself and to pour himself a glass of wine -- or two -- from your bottle to make sure your wine is “just right.” It always is. Anything upset Larry? “Yeah,” a birthday party with a lot of kids,” Larry says. “Kids don’t drink! It’s hard to make a good cover on a kiddie birthday party when all they’re drinking are 7 Ups and Shirley Temples.” Actually, I love kids… err… well… let’s just say I really like them.” The Shack Bar and Grill is open everyday for dinner from 6PM and closes when Larry feels like it.