Bamburgh Castle
Footloose in Northumberland By Debra Rixon
18
RETIREMENT
today
and felt that it was a highlight of our entire trip. I could understand every word from the knowledgeable Geordie captain, and his seamanship was superb as he manoeuvred that boat into narrow lanes between the rocks so that we could actually see the chicks in the nests of the birds, and admire the seals. On the cruise back to Seahouses, our sharp eyed skipper spotted a pod of dolphins and we had the delight of ‘dancing’ with the dolphins as he moved the boat to follow their antics. Seahouses is a busy small resort and has a charming habit of building amphitheatre-style seating around
the fishing harbour where you can sit to eat your fish and chips from the vending stand, or wait for your boat trip, or just sit and watch the activity in the port. Sadly, there is nothing else of note at Seahouses. Down the coast is Craster, another little fishing village but with far more charm, and the added bonus of the dramatic ruins of Dunstanburgh Castle, a pleasant level walk from the harbour where the sheep and cattle regularly manage to get themselves down onto the flat rocks. Craster is also home to the legendary Craster Kippers which are truly delicious and fresh, which makes all the Lindisfarne
Footloose in Northumberland
Debra
Lindisfarne Priory
I
think every county in England has something of interest, history and beauty but I have to say, I’m putting Northumberland near the top. We packed up our 1969 Airstream trailer and set off from the Chiltern Hills for the north, stopping one night at Knaresborough on a small campsite that only had 5 pitches. I know it’s hard to believe, but there is something therapeutic about driving in the slow lane of the motorway; not much lane changing unless there is a lorry travelling slower than you are, and you can look out the window and watch the scenery instead of constantly checking your mirrors for other drivers. After Newcastle we left the super highways behind and made our way through green and agricultural fields towards the coast, and a small farm site of 8 pitches within sight of Bamburgh Castle and the dunes. Bamburgh is breathtaking as you drive down through the main street to the coast road – it rises up in front of you, dominating the coastline. It’s a fabulous visit, not as historic as Alnwick, but less commercial and the views from the battlements are to die for. There is a permanent Saxon settlement within the castle ward, and it is of course, Bebbanburgh of the acclaimed tv series The Last Kingdom. The beaches below the castle are pristine and in June, more or less deserted – locals told us that was pretty normal – and stretch for miles. To the north is the distinctive outline of the Holy Island of Lindisfarne; to the south are the Farne Islands, havens for nesting birds and seals. Lindisfarne is magical for some, and very tranquil as visitor numbers are limited to the tides, which cut off access via the causeway. What I found so appealing about the island is that it is a living community beside such an ancient and revered monument – the ruins of St Cutherbert’s Priory at one end of the island, and the not so ancient castle across a bay. The Pilgrims’ route is still marked with tall poles across the mud flats for those who wish to walk across. We took a boat trip to the Farne Islands – something I would normally require a strong inducement for –
