“J A S O N D E N H A M : T H E J E A N M A K E R � Born in England, Jason Denham began his career in the workshop of Joe CasleyHayford making glammed up jeans for U2 in 1992. After cutting his teeth as a product manager for Pepe Jeans, he founded Clinic+ to assist clients, such as LVMH, Swift denim & Kuyichi, developing distinct positions in the denim market. This culminated in the founding of Blue Blood in 2001. The D E N H A M label was launched for Spring 2009 and represents his most fully realized personal vision and demonstrates his modest but sincere resolve to resist compromise. D E N H A M focused on introducing a signature range of premium jeans and fits, complimented by a short collection of shirting and accessories. Soon to be announced in our DENHAM store on the 9 Streets, Amsterdam, as well as key retailers within Holland, Germany and UK.
“ D E N H A M D E S I G N : D E N I M I N T E G R I T Y. A B A L A N C E O F T W I N O B S E S S I O N S ” D E N H A M DESIGN : DENIM INTEGRIT Y means that we look at the core of what drives jeans culture to inspire the approach we take in everything we do. The D E N H A M label is focused on balancing an intense commitment to progressive design against an equally obsessive respect for jeans craft tradition. We try to manifest our “jeanmaker” ethic of honest craftsmanship multiplied by fearless experimentation and invention not only in every jean we create, but in every garment in the line and every other aspect of the label.
“WORSHIP TRADITION. TRADITION TEACHES QUALITY” S T Y L E S W I T H H I S T O R Y The developed styles are derived from the best and most iconic denim, casual and utility garment types in history. We recognize their timeless wearability, the rich style-culture and the true original design ideas that have taken centuries to evolve. We seek to create something new, but seek to root it in the strongest foundation. It takes generations to establish a great tradition and achieving quality is never simple. Quality is the source of the fibers before they are spun into yarn. It is about weaving specifications, construction techniques. dyeing and laundering processes. It is about hardware, closures, labelling and finishes. It is about the front side, the backside, the inside, the right side and the other side. It ‘s not simple, It’s complicated. But ultimately it’s addictive. Our Hiro Japanese selvedge denim crafted in Japan with legendary jeansmaker “Hiro”. Premium selvedge ensures the longand-strong characteristics of straight warp yarns, upgrading the overall stamina and long-wearing performance of the finished product. ‘The Truth is in the Details’ [traditional]: (1) Boxing Clever Box-finished buttonholes, borrowed from Savile Row tailoring, eliminates raw-edges and increases durability and ease-of-use. (2) Full Inner-Waistband Tailoring Fully finished suit-pant tailoring on the inside of a pair of jeans, which is also inspired by the artisans of Savile Row, provides both strength and comfort. (3) Internal Fly Binding Fully bound fly placket panels as carefully considered on the inside as on the outside (4) Triple-Tailored Waistbands Chambray waist with 3 grades of chambray and grosgrain, an artisan technique straight from Savile Row But while we will continue to worship tradition, we aim to destroy convention… “DESTROY CONVENTION. CONVENTION PREVENTS PROGRESS” Contrary to popular belief, traditions are not honoured by blind mindless repetition. Traditions are advanced through challenging convention in a constant search for improvement. We add to tradition through trial-and-error, through innovation and invention. Traditions are ignited and energised through inspired acts of respectful revolution. ‘The Truth is in the Details’ [unconventional]: (1) The Seven Points DENHAM’s unconventional Seven-Point Pocket is inspired by the natural 7-point anatomy of the hand that goes into it; A 2-point entry, supporting a radial layout of 5 finger-points. (2) Rivet Saddles On may 20th 1873, inventor J.W.Davis destroyed convention by proposing and patenting the use of machinestyle metal rivets on garment stress-points to increase durability. We have taken the notion one step further by adding a saddleleather bushing on the backside to further enhance durability and increase comfort. (3) Fishbone Pocket Lining High-grade fishbone pocketing for long-lasting utility and a classic handfeel.
493(5) “DENHAM DESIGN HOUSE” The D E N H A M H O U S E has opened its doors on the Prinsengracht 493-495 in the desirable “9 streets” area of Amsterdam. An authentic and naturally beautiful space has been carefully refitted to give shape to D E N H A M ’s design studio, showrooms and 1st store that will open in January 2009.
495(3) “DENHAM STORE OPENS” Jason Denham’s new brand D E N H A M unveils it’s first own-retail presentation at 495 Prinsengracht in Amsterdam’s 9 Street neighbourhood. Developed by Jason and his creative team the shop manifests the spirit of the D E N H A M label and brings to life the brand’s various inspirations and obsessions.
“EXPERIENCE” The shop experience unfolds through a sequence of “zones” with denim itself forming the central heart of the concept. As each zone gives way to the next, new stories are presented and subtle changes in atmosphere can be detected through shifts in material, product display, sound and visuals. In each area of the shop a reverence for the best of tradition is mixed with a fresh contemporary energy... a signature mix of the old with the new.
“ZONE(1): THE GALLERY” The shop entrance forms a gallery in which four primary stories of the brand are told in large glass shadowbox displays. The displays make use of historic items from D E N H A M ’s archives (the D E N H A M G A R M E N T L I B R A R Y ) along with modern elements, video-installation and photography. The stories told in these presentations include: “DENHAM DENIM” All about D E N H A M ’s unique approach to crafting contemporary artisan/tailored blue jeans. “MENSWEAR” The fusion of traditional Savile Row approaches with modern design and fabrication. “ WOMENSWEAR” Sensual and romantic techniques updated and re-engineered into contemporary icons of the new feminine casual wardrobe. “ T H E B LU E S A L A D B A R” A unique program whereby customers can customise signature D E N H A M jean styles selecting from a range of color, hardware, leatherwork and stitch options with the final product being assembled by Jason Denham himself and ready for pick-up in seven days.
“ S C I S S O R S F R O M T H E D G L” An additional display case features antique scissors from the D E N H A M G A R M E N T L I B R A R Y . Although this is only a small selection from the complete collection, it features both the original tailor shears Jason used to cut his first pair of jeans as well as a very rare pair of French “master tailor’s shears” from 1550. The interior styling of the gallery is rendered in pure minimalist white with accents of warm traditional woodwork including a reclaimed haberdasher’s antique caseline embedded into a clean white monolithic cash-counter, a D E N H A M signature of “worship ing tradition” while “destroying convention”, bringing together the old with the new. Throughout the gallery the soundtrack is relaxing, melodic and softly exotic.
‘A H I R O F O R D E N H A M ’ S S A K E ” D E N H A M ’s japanese selvedge denim is crafted in Japan with legendary jeansmaker ‘Hiro’, who is also a sake maker. To celebrate the launch of D E N H A M , Hiro has gifted 100 bottles of the finest exclusive D E N H A M branded sake. This is the first ever export of his family sake outside of Japan since 7 generations. This is H I R O ’ s story: “My father found evidence that our family sake business start from 1672. But we are sure that our sake factory start since 1804. We have clear evidence. So, we just want to tell people from clear history. Exactly 204 years history, since 1804 and 5 generations later (my father is 5th generation). Now I am not following my father business, because I love denim! I never take care of my father business before, but my father getting old and I cannot keep this. I decide to introduce my family sake outside Japan since last year, and D E N H A M is very first export sake in our history. I really proud of this. Jason! Thank you very much.” “HIRO”
“ZONE(2): ACCESSORIES” The gallery gives way to a warmly accented vestibule clad entirely in mircro-blocked natural wood featuring a rich golden oil-stain. The soundscape shift from exotic melody to the sound of ambient impression of a soft rain. The main message of the accessories area is D E N H A M ’s homage to classic turnof-the-century soft sided steamer bags. Museum-quality specimen from the Louis Vuitton label circa 1910 as well as a WWII Air-force Pilot Navigation Case, both part of the D E N H A M G A R M E N T L I B R A R Y , are displayed behind glass alongside the new designs they inspired. Both have been re-imagined in Japanese selvedge denim combined with rich saddle leather and finished with custom forged solid brass hardware. Unique small accessories created exclusively for the shop are also merchandised within the space.
“S09 COLLECTION (1): THE TRUTH IS IN THE DETAILS” The premier D E N H A M collection launching for Spring/Summer 2009, represents a carefully crafted sign of things to come. “Our customer is not going to settle for less than jaw dropping, mouth watering, gotta have pieces. The only way we know how to make them is to create our own unique balance of deep authenticity, inventive contemporary detailing and a distinctly modern attitude” Jason Denham.
“TAILORMADE ” Quality and careful construction are central to the D E N H A M label and the first collection draws inspiration from a coveted personal heirloom: an antique pattern book called ‘THE CUTTERS’, printed in 1910 and sold at the time for 15 shillings. D E N H A M ’s first models are inspired by and named for traditional techniques discussed in the book, ‘C U T T E R ’, ‘D A R T ’, ‘TA P E R ’ & ‘TA I L O R ’. The Tailormade techniques inspired remarkable detailing such as: (1) Boxed Button Holes for a clean finish and superlative wear (2) Fully Bound Fly Panels as carefully considered on the inside as on the outside (3) Tailored Chambray Waist with Triple-Chambray and Grosgrain, an artisan technique straight from Savile Row (4) High-Grade Fishbone Pocketing for long-lasting utility and a classic handfeel
“ZONE(3): DENIM, THE HEART OF THE MATTER� ZONE(3) sees a return to the pure white minimalist atmosphere but anchored by a second submerged antqiue menswear case. In the case the flagship models from the denim line are carefully displayed on upholstered chambray pads including styles with fabrications and finishes from both Japan and Italy. Along the white walls each denim model is faced-out creating a clear visual menu of the D E N H A M jean collections for men and women and asserting the D E N H A M design attitude through shape, surface and detailing.
“ Z O N E (4) : R E A DY-T O -W E A R” The final shopping zone features the complimenting jackets, tops and knitwear that complete the D E N H A M collection for Spring ‘09. Each style is displayed on custom forged and welded “scissor brackets” lined up along the entire length of both main walls.
“DENHAM STUDIO STORE: UNDER(1)ROOF” The last shopping zone is flanked by a wholesale showroom where next season (Fall ‘09) is presented by appointment only. For the store opening the showroom was used to share selections from the D E N H A M G A R M E N T L I B R A R Y for VIPs and the Press where some of Jason’s favourites from his historic archive were displayed by a roaring fire. Beyond a second door lies D E N H A M ’s design studio visible through a glass passageway that connects 495 Prinsengracht and the store with 493 Prinsengracht, the address of the D E N H A M headquarters and design studio. Together the shop, studio, sale-office and showrooms create a singular expression of the overall D E N H A M brand and unique synchronicity between design, studio, product and customer.
“DENHAM GARMENT LIBRARY” Jason Denham’s single-minded obsession with denim is the primary inspiration for the brand. His conviction that deep knowledge comes with extensive research is central to the studio’s design approach. The D E N H A M G A R M E N T L I B R A R Y features an extensive collection of archetypal jean models as well as work wear, military clothing and travel gear from the last century up till today. We know our predecessors, our contemporaries and our competitors. We take inspiration from anyone and anyplace producing relevant ideas but we are never content just to reproduce an existing idea. The research feeds our passion and our passion is to move forward.
“ W H AT ’ S O L D T O D AY, I S N E W T O M O R R O W ” Before we created we collected. But we collect not just to ACQUIRE; we collect to EXAMINE, ANALYZE, DISCOVER and to LEARN. For over 15 years the DENHAM GARMENT LIBRARY supplies the raw material for our research, design and development. We can’t benefit from tailoring traditions until we gain a better understanding, and new ideas will crumble if they’re not built on a strong foundation. Each item in the library tells a story and each one represents a starting-point for our collections.
“ A C E L E B R AT I O N O F T H I N G S T O C O M E ”
1ST STUDIO STORE OPENING ( JA N UA RY 1 5 /0 9 )