DEEP Surf Magazine—av8, Issue 3—May/June 2013 by DEEP Surf Magazine

SWIMSUIT ISSUE

Brent Lieberman Photo Essay JUNE 2013

Travel Canada CENTRAL CALIFORNIA SURFING MAGAZINE

Rincon Classic Results DEEPZINE.COM

Linden Field in Carpinteria, California

“Beer Festival by the Beach” Tickets & Info: www.deepfest.com / www.deepzine.com PRESENTED BY

ILLUSTRATION: EMILY BOELSEMS

Saturday, August 10th, 2013

THE SURF CHANNEL IS THE FIRST NATIONAL TELEVISION NETWORK DEDICATED TO

SURFERS, SURFING AND SURF CULTURE facebook.com/thesurfchannel

twitter.com/thesurfchannel

youtube.com/surfchannel

www.thesurfchannel.com

@thesurfchannel

Bobby Martinez | photo: Sherman

Nose 123/8”

Width 19 ” Thickness 2 5/16”

Tail 14 1/2”

cisurfboards.com

Narrated by surf legend Shaun Tomson, the ďŹ lm features gorgeous scenery, stunning cinematography, and a thoughtful meditative approach to storytelling. - SBIFF

Sri Lanka Iceland Colombia USA Nova Scotia

Standing on a World of Adventure

Driftwood 1 NORTH PRODUCTIONS presents produced & envisioned by JIM BREWER directed by PETER TROW narrated by SHAUN TOMSON executive producer BARNEY BERGLUND associate producer MITCH KARNO featuring MATT BECKER GENELLE IVES JOE ROWAN SAM GEORGE NOAH YAP AMMY NAFF JIM BREWER PETER TROW To purchase this Limited Edition DVD, and for more information, go to: www.bluelinepaddlesurf.com ING FILM F DL D

VAL TI ES

2013

REEL PA

2013 OFFICIAL SELECTION

WINNER

Chad Jackson in SLO County. PHOTO: DYLAN GORDON

EL DIRECTOR: Andres Nuño EDITOR: Chuck Graham GRAPHIC DESIGN: Dan Levin PHOTO CORRECTION: David Levine ADVERTISING: info@deepzine.com CONTRIBUTING WRITERS: Craig Comen Derek Dodds Glenn Dubock Chelsea Faulkner Chuck Graham Dan Hamlin Michael Kew L. Paul Mann Kara Petersen

D.E. Putnam David Pu’u Dave Schauber Ryan A. Smith Shawn Tracht CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS: Eric Adler Sarah Aresco Branden Aroyan Justin Bastien Emily Bates Emily Boelsems Marisa Breyer Chris Burkard Caterina Caligiuri Matt Collins Ciaran Edwards Seth de Roulet Derek Dodds Glenn Dubock Beth Fankhauser J.P. Garcia

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE June 2013

Josh Gill Dylan Gordon Chuck Graham Michael Kew Matt Kotowski J.R. Lane Brent Lieberman Anthony Lombardi L. Paul Mann Mike McInnis Colin Nearman Peggy Oki David Powdrell David Pu’u Blake Richards Brian Salce Jon Shafer Ryan A. Smith Bill Tover Shawn Tracht The Surf Channel © ASP © ASP/ Kirstin

SUPPORTING STAFF: Lea Boyd Peter Dugré Chelsea Faulkner Amy Orozco Joe Rice Kris Whittenton

PHOTO: JOSH GILL

May/June 2013 > Volume 8 > No. 3 Central California Surfing Magazine

COVER SHOT: Conner Coffin earned his first Pro Division championship at the 2013 Rincon Classic.

PUBLISHER: Mike VanStry, President ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER: Gary L. Dobbins

deepsurfmag #deepsurfmag

DEEP Surf Magazine @DEEPSurfMag ALSO VISIT

Owned and Operated by RMG Ventures, LLC Carpinteria, CA 93013 Tel: 805.684.4428 General Inquiries & Submissions: info@deepzine.com

DEEPZINE.COM AND MAKE SURE TO...

DEEP Surf Magazine

12 News 14 2013 Rincon Classic Results 16 Northern Exposure 20 Comen Sense 22 Tidelines 24 View from the Hill 25 Dropping In On Troy Mothershead 26 Board Trachting 28 Surf Shop Down Low 62 Green Room 70 Music & Entertainment 72 Final Frames 74/76 Letter from the Editor

PHOTO: DAVID PU’U ANTHONY LOMBARDI BRENT LIEBERMAN MICHAEL KEW

FEATURES 33

SWIMSUIT ISSUE Photos by David Pu’u This year's DEEP Swimsuit Issue was shot by David Pu'u on the Central Coast. Over xx swimsuits and boardshorts are showcased in our annual Swimsuit Issue. Always the "hottest" issue of the year, this one is the best yet! Enjoy.

CHANGING LANES Story by D.E. Putnam / Photos by Anthony Lombardi, Chuck Graham Five years ago, “ship strike” became a household name along the California Coast. Whales hit by large vessels in the Santa Barbara Channel began washing up on shore in too high a number to ignore, and NOAA responded with research and, eventually, a new approach to keeping marine mammals safe without shutting down a multi-million dollar shipping industry. This summer the new strategy, detailed for DEEP by D.E. Putnam, goes into effect.

Check out our listings of top Surf Camps on the Central and South Coasts.

52 PHOTO ESSAY BRENT LIEBERMAN

Words by Chuck Graham Decades ago, Brent Lieberman made a big decision that altered the course of surfing history. He gave up the juggling act between pro-surfer and surf-photographer and committed himself to being behind the camera and capturing images that have defined surfing for decades. Having published his work extensively in Surfing and Surfer Magazine, Lieberman is now sharing some of his finest work with the readers and Central Coast rippers of DEEP.

64 TRAVEL CANADA

Story and Photos by Michael Kew “For most surfers, Canada is a cruel and unusual place.” DEEP’s stalwart surf adventurer Michael Kew tackles the U.S.’s northern neighbor in this installment of wave-seeking wandering, and what he finds is cold wind, shocked locals and surf that rejects more often than it rewards. Read the words, admire the images and get ready to better appreciate the Central Coast.

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE April 2013

A section highlighting the 30 diversity of board building by local shapers in the tri-county region.

PismoBeach ClassicCalifornia.com

ell, that was rough. Another winter that wasn’t: it resulted in minimal surf and very little rain to boot, so now we’re really due for something substantial. Patience is a virtue, so we’ll have to lean on that and wait and see what happens next fall. In the meantime, another summer is on our heels. Here’s to wishful thinking, some warm water, and south swells. I’m not picky. Even a good northwest windswell would suffice around here. However, summer days can extend from month to month without an abundance of sessions. I try to stay busy by swimming, paddling, and running the hills in the coastal range. Before I know it, fall has arrived. That’s how quick things go cranking out a magazine too. I’ve been with DEEP for almost six years now. Time is flying, and our contributing writers and photographers keep delivering quality work. It’s a joy sifting through submissions and balancing out an issue. In this issue of DEEP, Dustin Putnam covers the re-routing of shipping lanes to accommodate blue whales that take residency in the Santa Barbara Channel each summer. The channel is one of the best places in the world for watching whales, dolphins and porpoises. Our photo essay this issue is by long-time lensman Brent Lieberman. We asked him to dig deep into his files to yesteryear, offering a unique look at a bygone era. Michael Kew shares his travels on idyllic Vancouver Island and reveals the potential for surf hidden along this rugged, tree-lined Canadian coast. Our annual Swimsuit Issue will once again grace the pages of DEEP with the latest and greatest styles in swimwear. Hope you enjoy this issue and here’s to long summer days.

PHOTOS: LORI GRAHAM

LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

Enjoy.

Chuck Graham

WHO’S ON BOARD? Dave Schauber

Writer / Videographer

A Carpinteria resident and Rincon local, Dave has deep ties to Pro Surfing. He is a former contributing writer for Surfing Magazine and worked as an ASP Judge from 1998 - 2007. He judges big wave contests world wide including every Mavericks Competition but one since 2002. He has become recognized the last few years for his cinematography works and is also co-owner of Glas Apparel & Films.

Mike McInnis Photographer

Born and raised in the Pacific Northwest, Mark McInnis started shooting photos in high school with an aging Canon AE-1. Before long, he was combining his passion for photography with his love for surfing the forested shores of his home state. Though the Northwest is a challenging place to work as an ocean and outdoor lifestyle photographer—cold water, constant storms and many long hours on the road—he was soon capturing images that spoke to the area’s unique culture and unspoiled natural beauty.

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE April 2013

David Pu’u

Photographer/Writer David Pu’u is a renowned photographer and cinematographer with broad experience in editorial publication, television and feature film production. For the past 15 years he has been a leader in the imaging community through his contributions to new technology and uses of high-speed motion capture in film and digital 3D formats—featured prominently on the global stage.

Chelsea Faulkner

Intern

Chelsea Faulkner was born and raised in San Diego, Calif. and grew up close to the ocean. “I believe that everybody should do their part to keep the world beautiful and pristine for others.” She currently is a senior at the University of California Santa Barbara. Although her future plans are undecided, she has always had a strong passion for writing, and hopes to contribute her strengths through this art form.

PHOTOS: PAUL CALDERON

Custom Shape. Custom Fins. Custom Glassing.

PHOTO: PAUL GREENE

Personalize your board.

50% off DING REPAIR

with mentioning of ad

2705 Saddle Ave., Oxnard • (805) 485-0700 • hoytesurfboards.com

SUP SALE $999

SUMMER SUP PACKAGE! INCLUDES: Any In-Stock SUP • SUP Board Bag 100% Carbon Fiber Fixed Handle Paddle A $1,350 Value!!!

Sale is for in stock SUPS only. Visit our website and find out why our boards are the best quality you can buy. Offer valid through 7/1/13. Must mention this ad.

154 E. Thompson Blvd., Ventura • (805) 652-2201 • wavefrontsurfshop.com

NEWS

Peaks and Valleys BY CHUCK GRAHAM

ASPUPDATE

PHOTOS: ©ASP

s I watched the Quiksilver Pro online at Snapper Rocks and then finish up at Kirra, I realized 11-time World Champ Kelly Slater was not only serious about winning that Victorious again. contest but also would stop at nothing to bag world title number 12. He didn’t win the contest with a barrel ride or one of his patented top turns: he won by paddling for priority in the quarterfinals against Australian Bede Durbidge. Durbidge No signs of slowing was closer, but Slater sealed the gap and coveted the position that would guarantee a victory. It down. was an all-out effort put forth by both surfers, but in the end, Slater wanted it more. That effort carried over into the semifinal and final against Australians Mick Fanning and current World Champ Joel Parkinson. Slater positioned himself lower on the point at Kirra and watched Fanning and then Parkinson surf toward him. Then, Slater answered back with arguably some of the best barrels of the event for the victory. In 2012, Slater won three events but had one no-show, and two poor results that hindered his push for a 12th title. He’ll have to avoid those inconsistencies in 2013. Even after his win at Kirra this year, Slater couldn’t sustain momentum and stubbed his toe in round 2; Brazilian William Cardoso beat him in the Rip Curl Pro at Bells Beach, an event that Slater has continually dominated over the years. Fellow Brazilian Adriano De Souza beat Santa Cruz local and World Championship Tour rookie, Nat Young, in the final. Regardless of who will take home the next big win, for now, it looks like fresh blood will keep things interesting for Brazil in May. WED 01

THU 02

FRI 03

9:37am -0.27 10:46 -0.04 11:47 0.14 4:36pm 3.79 5:37 4:16 6:26 4.57

On the women's side of things, Lakey Peterson has done well of late—third place finish at the Rip Curl Women's Pro and fifth place finish at the TSB BAnk NZ Surf Festival and finds herself in 6th position on the Women's World Championship Tour. Can't say the same for Sage Erickson, who seems to be having the same problems she had on the WCT last year, but she has put herself in position to qualify again on the ASP Women's Star events (currently tied for 7th).

SAT 04

SUN 05

MON 06

TUE 07

WED 08

THU 09

FRI 10

SAT 11

6:15 0.33 12:38 4.94

7:18 4.05 1:21 0.55

8:12 4.03 1:59 0.79

8:58 3.98 2:32 1.04

9:40 3.89 3:03 1.29

10:20 3.78 3:32 1.53

10:59 3.64 4:00 1.76

11:39 3.49 4:29 1.98

MAY 2013 Tide Chart Ventura, CA

Lakey in the hunt.

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE June 2013

SUN 12 MON 13

5:56 -0.35 5:00 2.21

6:36 -0.14 5:35 3.21

TUE 14

WED 15

7:20 0.1 2:14 3.15

8:09 0.35 3:22 3.22

WSURF.COM TIDE CHART

PHOTO: ERIC ADLER

The Red Bull Tune-Up BY DAN HAMLIN

t might seem a bit odd that one of the leading brands of energy drinks is attempting to boost and promote surfing and its image. But Red Bull has put a tremendous amount of its resources into helping their team of surfers reach the top in the sport. So it shouldn’t really come as a surprise that they put together The Red Bull Tune-Up, a surf clinic for the Cal Poly and UCSB surf teams, at Pismo Beach on March 15. The event will also feature renowned big wave surfer Jamie Sterling. Sterling is a former Big Wave World Tour champion and Red Bull sponsored athlete, and he was on hand to surf with the collegiate athletes and share his wealth of knowledge with them. Red Bull put together the event as a way to provide the Central Coast’s two major university surf teams with a once-in-a-lifetime experience of surfing and a learning opportunity from one of the top names in the sport. Sterling said, “Red Bull always wants to give back, and this is one way they are doing that for the up-and-coming surfers in the U.S. and all over the world.” Sterling has participated in similar Red Bull camps at various spots across the globe; he enjoys them because they allow him to help the next generation of surfers as well as provide a way for him to give something back. In the end, both teams were grateful that Red Bull reached out to collegiate level surfing in an attempt to teach and inspire rising individuals in the competitive ranks. According to the surfers, Red Bull is one of the first major companies to reach out to the teams to help promote and improve their surfing skills. The college surfers were noticeably excited to be

No bull.

surfing with Sterling and seemed enthusiastic to have the chance to glean knowledge from someone so accomplished. Sometimes, all it takes for someone to reach that next level in surfing is simply through observing and learning from someone like Sterling. The Red Bull Tune-Up served as the perfect venue for that and more, and at the end of the clinic all of the surfers seemed thankful to be a part of the Tune-Up.

Cowboys, Surfing and Music? SURF RODEO COMES TO PIERPONT IN VENTURA

he Surf Rodeo hits town the weekend of July 13, 2013, and South Seaward Avenue will be shutdown for this insane event. What exactly is the Surf Rodeo? The Surf Rodeo is a contest where hundreds of local surfers—including the likes of Kelly Slater, Dane Reynolds, Rob Machado, and the Malloy brothers—pick a random stick out of the sand to determine what board they will get to ride. Various divisions that include titles like “Lil Wrangler,”“Wrangler,” Slater at the Cowboy Rodeo. “Cowgirl,”“Big Hoss” and the legendary “Greased Pig” will make for an amazing weekend of rawhide surfing! The Surf Rodeo Grand Champion will have to compete in two wild events: the “Tandum Hay Bale Race” and “The (Mechanical) Bull.”The participant with the most

THU 16

9:03am 0.57 4:26pm 3.41

FRI 17

SAT 18

9:59 0.75 5:13 3.71

10:52 0.87 5:49 4.09

SUN 19 MON 20

11:41 0.97 6:20 4.52

6:30 3.48 12:24 1.05

WETSAND SURF

points overall will be named the Surf Rodeo Grand Champion. The Surf Rodeo will also feature a variety of local musicians. There will be two stages and two beer gardens! With musical talents Tom Curren and Timmy Curran already booked, this will be one heck of a lineup of 20-plus bands. Additionally, Seaward Avenue will showcase over 70 vendors that specialize in unique trades ranging from jerky to surfboards! That’s right folks, the whole street is closing down to celebrate! A rowdy Kid Zone full of animated characters, rides, jump houses, balloons, and much more will be located just off the sand. Add in a couple of awesome food trucks and local restaurants, and even the kids are going have a great weekend! For more information visit www.facebook.com/SurfRodeo.

TUE 21

WED 22

THU 23

FRI 24

SAT 25

7:30 3.64 1:06 1.13

8:23 3.61 1:47 1.21

9:14 3.95 2:29 1.3

10:04 4.02 3:12 1.42

10:55 4.03 3:57 1.56

SUN 26 MON 27

11:48 4.01 4:46 1.74

12:44 3.96 5:41 1.95

SHOP 446 Main Street, Ventura Not to be used for navigation. Do not rely on data for decisions that can result in harm to anyone or anything.

TUE 28

WED 29

THU 30

7:06 -1.16 1:44 4.01

8:02 -0.73 2:48 4.12

9:00 -0.26 3:52 4.34

MAY 2013 Tide Chart Ventura, CA www.DEEPZINE.com

2013 RINCON CLASSIC RESULTS

Coffin Takes Rincon Classic Title Boelsterli Wins Ninth Straight Women’s Title Conner Coffin earned his first Rincon Classic Pro Division championship in style.

PHOTOS: BRANDEN AROYAN

BY DAVE SCHAUBER

9x Women's champion, Demi Boelsterli.

urning 30 is a monumental event and is something we often struggle with. This seemed to be the case for this year’s Quiksilver Rincon Classic; it would be unlikely for her to go into her 30th year without some resistance. For two months, it seemed as if the Queen had been toying with our emotions; she would provide us with beautiful conditions and great waves during the week, only to go into hiding during the weekends of the waiting period. Finally, after eight weeks of playing hard-toget, she rewarded her loyal servants with a window of opportunity: the event was set for the weekend of March 2 and 3, 2013. Walking through the gate of the Rincon Colony on Saturday morning was like something out of a dream. The weather was sunny, the wind was offshore, and the surf was 3- to 4-feet and flawless. After climbing on to the scaffolding, I couldn’t help but feel as though we were being blessed; it was almost as if there was a divine presence watching over us. Looking out over the competition site, I saw a banner ruffling in the breeze. On it was a beautiful little face, the face of the departed Daisy Love Merrick, who had recently lost her battle with cancer after a long and courageous fight. This year’s event was being held in her honor, and there was no doubt that she was there smiling down upon us. At 7 a.m., the first hooter sounded and the contest was officially underway (the Juniors’division was the first to surf). As the day progressed, the surfing was red hot. Each of the

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE June 2013

PHOTO: AROYAN PHOTO: MATT COLLINS

Men's champion Simon Murdoch.

Pro division finalist Kilian Garland

PHOTO: SARAH ARESCO

Master's champion Aaron Smith.

PHOTOS: JON SHAFER

Longboard champion Cole Robbins.

Grand Master's champion Tony DeGroot.

PHOTO:JSHAFER

PHOTO: COLLINS

Pro division finalist Mike McCabe. PHOTOS: JON SHAFER

Juniors champion Pat Curren.

www.DEEPZINE.com

PHOTO: AROYAN

PHOTO: JON SHAFER

Scosche Audio high heat score winner Gabe Venturelli.

PHOTO: BRANDEN AROYAN

PHOTO: AROYAN

PHOTO: MATT KOTOWSKI

Pro division finalist Pete Mussio.

Contest director Chris Keet, center, with Pro division finalist.

Expression Session winner Andres Barbieri.

PHOTO: AROYAN

PHOTO: BILL TOVER

Legend's champion Kit Cossart.

Gremlin's champion Tommy McKeown.

respected divisions had their game faces on because as a community event, it meant bragging rights were on the line. Friends on land became bitter rivals in the water as competitors from every age group battled it out to make it to Sunday and land themselves in the finals. After 10 hours, the cream had risen to the top and the stage was set for Finals day. When Sunday morning rolled around, the conditions had slightly changed. The canyon winds had put a slight bump on the faces, which made heats a bit trickier for the remaining surfers. One thing was certain: if you were going to win the Rincon Classic this year, you were going to earn it. In the Gremlins division, Tommy McKeown and Zane Booth demonstrated superior skills while Josiah Amico and Mickey Clarke lit up the Boys division. The Juniors were very impressive as well. Vinny Leonelli and Charlie Fawcett illustrated power beyond their years, while Pat Curren surfed with unrivaled style and grace. In the Mens division, the always-eccentric Simon Murdoch led the charge using tactics and strategy to his advantage. The Masters came out with all-guns-blazing after Gabe Venturelli scored a 10-point ride. Aaron Smith laid down some massive forehand hacks, and Ian Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Neill scalded the lip with vicious backside vert snaps. Venturelli also took home the Scosche Audio high heat score

award, earning himself a cool $500. One noticeable change was the improvement in the Wahines surfing this year. Abby Brown was ripping and Alana Moore was charging some bombs. Demi Boelsterli destroyed all comers in the Womens division with her brutal forehand gouges and asserted her strengths with already eight straight titles coming into this yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s event. The Legends and Grand Masters were not to be outdone and proved that age is only a state of mind. In the Grand Masters, Tony DeGroot and Chuck Graham turned the clock back a few years by drawing some beautiful lines on the open faces; meanwhile, legends like Kit Cosart, Andy Neumann, L. Paul Mann, and Dave Johnson inspired the crowd with a youthful approach to surfing. Cole Robbins demonstrated a perfect mix of both classic and modern approaches in the Mens Longboard division . The Pro-division proved to be a hard-fought battle. After early event favorite Bobby Martinez bowed out in the Quarters due to lack of waves, the door opened up for the rest of the surfers and allowed them to take full advantage of the remaining heats. By the time the final rolled around,

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE June 2013

2013 QUICKSILVER RINCON CLASSIC RESULTS PRESENTED BY CHANNEL ISLANDS SURFBOARDS — Dedicated to Daisy Love Merrick — PHOTO: CATERINA CALIGIURI

PHOTO: DAVID POWDRELL

Boys champion Josiah Amico. PHOTO: CATERINA CALIGIURI

Legend's finalist from left, Dave Johnson, winner Kit Cossart, Andy Newmann, L. Paul Mann, Tom McKeown and Bruce Hosmer.

PRO/AM RESULTS Professional Division 1. Conner Coffin 2. Mike McCabe 3. Kilian Garland 4. Pete Mussio

15.74 13.76 13.73 12.07

Expression Session Most Inspirational Performance 1. Andres Barbieri Gremlins 11 and under 1. Tommy McKeown 2. Zane Booth 3. Jabe Sweirkocki 4. Kaden Tsuji 5. Fisher Devoe 6. Gavin Eason

12.34 12.07 10.70 9.34 3.23 3.07

Boys 12-14 1. Josiah Amico 14.77 2. Micky Clarke 13.26 3. Peter Healey 12.53 4. Jeff Knell 10.43 5. Henry Hepp 10.00 6. Jace Kennedy 4.57

Judges and MCs watching from the sky.

Jeff White Aloha Award winner Roger Nance (sitting), with shaper Matt Moore.

Conner Coffin, Kilian Garland, Mike McCabe and Peter Mussio had all made the cut. Coffin got two of the bigger sets and laid down his patented power carves while Garland took to the sky; Mike McCabe did what he does best, and Mussio just didn’t find the right waves. As with tradition, no scores were given in the last five minutes of the heat. Everyone was going to have to wait until the awards ceremony to know who won for sure. The buzz on the beach rumored that it would be a close competition between Coffin and Garland; however, when the results were read later that evening, Coffin had taken home the victory with 15.74 points. McCabe ended up second with 13.76 points. Garland landed in third with 13.73 points, and Mussio was fourth with 12.07 points. All in all, it was a great event. A big “Thank you” has to go out to the event sponsors: without them, this would not be possible. Quiksilver, Channel Islands Surfboards, Surf Happens, SIMA, The Santa Barbara Independent, Cox, Arbor, Teva, Scoshe, DEEP Magazine, Lanakai, The Quiksilver Foundation, Roxy, The Brittingham Family Foundation, Wahoo’s, Mad Dog’s, Alki, Indo Boards, Surfline, Acai Fruity, Spirit Earth, Christian Surfers, Salt Water Divas and Beach House Surf & Wear.

PHOTO: BILL TOVER

Wahine's champion Abby Brown.

PHOTO: CATERINA CALIGIURI

PHOTO: EMILY BATES/ THE SURF CHANNEL

Juniors 15-17 1. Pat Curren 14.20 (countback) 2. Vinny Leonelli 14.20 3. Charlie Fawcett 12.53 4. Micky Clarke 11.50 5. Jason Knell 8.64 6. Bronson Wheelen 6.33 Wahines 17 & under 1. Abby Brown 2. Jesse Ransone 3. Alana Moore 4. Poppy Brittingham 5. Zoe Luna 6. Olivia Siemens

11.23 7.60 7.07 5.20 5.07 2.63

Womens 1. Demi Boelsterli 2. Catherine Clark 3. Sierra Partridge 4. Abby Brown 5. Poppy Brittingham 6. Lisa Wynn Luna

12.77 9.44 6.47 6.14 4.36 4.10

Longboard 1. Cole Robbins 2. Jeff Belzer 3. Evan Trauntvein 4. Oliver Parker 5. J.P Garcia 6. Tony DeGroot

16.83 12.93 11.56 10.90 9.53 7.73

Mens 1. Simon Murdoch 2. Colin Schildhauer 3. Javier Moreno 4. Sean O’Toole 5. Matt Maheri 6. Adam Lambert

13.40 11.74 9.27 8.94 7.96 6.07

Masters 1. Aaron Smith 2. Gabe Venturelli 3. Ian O’Neill 4. Max Cail 5. Josh Pomer 6. Kas Alves

13.83 13.33 12.84 11.24 10.56 6.40

Grand Masters 1. Tony Degroot 2. Chuck Graham 3. Dave Johnson 4. Tony Luna 5. Craig Jennings 6. Steve Reichel

14.26 11.00 9.90 9.76 7.03 6.73

Legends 1. Kit Cossart 2. Andy Neumann 3. L. Paul Mann 4. Dave Johnson 5. Bruce Hosmer 6. Tom McKeown

10.50 7.40 7.37 7.30 4.50 2.93

The 2013 Rincon Classic was dedicated to Daisy Love Merrick, a true inspiration.

www.DEEPZINE.com

NORTHERN EXPOSURE

Nearman’s Perspective Josh Mulcoy lost in light.

STORY BY DAN HAMLIN / PHOTOS BY COLIN NEARMAN

olin Nearman rips. Usually surfers who surf as well as Nearman will spend their efforts trying to be in front of the camera, but Nearman finds a great deal of satisfaction being behind the lens. Growing up between the coastal towns of Ventura and Pismo Beach provided Nearman with a unique perspective that has translated well into his pursuit to document his surroundings and experiences. Over the years I’ve been impressed by Nearman’s humble attitude and approach toward surfing; he’s developed into a talented photographer and seems to have taken the same approach toward capturing images. Nearman attributes much of his childhood and upbringing as the inspiration for his passion in and style of photography. “As a kid, I spent thousands of hours staring out the car window driving up and down the coast from Pismo Beach to where my dad lives in Ventura. Those drives mean a lot to me now when I look back on them. It was a time to get in tune with what are now some of the most important things to me as a photographer. It gave me adoration and an appreciation for our California coastline—studying and observing California’s waves and landscapes on all those drives roused me to capture the beauty of nature. I don’t have a huge family, but I am grateful for the love and support they have always shown me. Their

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE June 2013

lessons have taught me the significance of working towards a passion.” Nearman grew up in a tight-knit circle of friends that’s unofficially known around Pismo as the “family of friends.” As kids they used to paddle out to the pier in huge packs and own the inside; many eventually became accomplished surfers. Today the “family” has spread out a little; some have moved out of the area and some have stopped surfing. But that time in Nearman’s life seems to have played a significant role in his outlook. In regards to his family of friends he says, “I think we helped raise each other into the people we are today. We went through the lowest of lows and the highest of highs together, but we never abandoned our friendship with each other. And those relationships are ones I will have for the rest of my life.” Nearman is a soft-spoken individual with a humble demeanor, so when I questioned him as to where his inspiration in photography comes from, I’m not surprised at his

response. “As far as photography goes, I don’t know if I’m attracted to what might inspire others; my passion did not stem from looking into a surf magazine one day and wanting what all those photographers had. Usually, I just try to stick to what has always inspired me growing up and let those thoughts expand more and more; then, I mold this into my work. However, I do think something young photographers can all find inspiration in is the first pioneers of the craft as well as the more recent generation of professionals who have mastered photography as a trade and an art. These individuals created a style that gave new ideas for what can be accomplished with the click of a shutter.” Nearman is young and full of talent. But perhaps the thing that sets him apart more than his talent is his maturity; he seems to possess a perspective beyond his years. He’s quick to give credit to those who have helped him and diligent to remember the important things in life. There is no doubt that this perspective will facilitate his efforts as a photographer. As I wrapped things up with Nearman, I was struck by some parting words he had to offer: “There is so much to learn from bringing yourself back to the basics with your work. It’s good to renew your mind to a simple state and look past the complex ideas and thoughts we sometimes put on ourselves when we get caught up with producing new work. Sometimes the value of a photo is exceeded by the value of the journey to capture it.”

Colin Nearman checking out his landscape.

COMEN SENSE

Tom Curren slotted.

The Surfing 100-yard dash BY CRAIG COMEN PHOTOS BY SETH DE ROULET

magine that you are paddling for a wave. Over your shoulder you see it coming; your heart is racing as you use every muscle in your body to match the speed of the wave. Now you’ve caught it: you stand up quickly, pump up the face, race down the line, carve a turn or two, and try a big move for the oncoming section. What you have just done is a flash, has quickly come and gone, and now requires you to paddle back out and do it again. Somewhere back in my day of competitive surfing, I heard a surf coach of mine compare surfing to a running sprint. For most of us, this holds true—we do not all get to surf J-Bay, Rincon or Impossibles, and our time standing on a board is close to what it takes to run a 100-yard dash. Sure some sprints are longer than others, but if you approach a wave as if it were an explosive burst, you might feel a little more speed and lightness in your style. Old videos of Tom Curren catching small “junk” surf reveal the sheer tenacity of his style; his assertive paddling strokes and initial turns set the standard for the rest of his ride. This can be applied to any size of wave, any style of break, and any size or shape of board you ride. It is obvious that most of us will not achieve what Curren or others have, but just by planting the seed in your mind, visualizing yourself getting up faster, climbing that foamball sooner, and pumping your legs a little stronger, you will elevate your performance and make your session more fun.

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE June 2013

There's no mistaking whose bottom turn this is.

Even though you may try to make this spring just like a runner, (not quite sure what the author means by “make this spring”) it is important to remember that no body parts should be out of place, no energy should be wasted, and no thought should have been necessary. King Kelly showcases these lessons at their best: he keeps everything in place, positions himself perfectly on each wave, and bursts like lightning. Like former world champ Peter Townend once told me, “Float like a butterfly, sting like a bee.” I don’t care if you are a bellyboarder, SUP surfer, kneeboarder or longboard cruiser: this little tidbit of advice can benefit you in some form or another. Plant the seed, get in the water, get out of the starting block quicker, and you will be on your way to becoming a better surfer.

SINCE 1996

MEET THE SHAPER! 2011 Shaper of the Year

PHOTO: KELTON WOODBURN • RIDER: OWNER JESSE MOTA

All your Surﬁng and Lifestyle Needs Join the Revolution

ROBERT WEINER OF

ROBERT’S SURFBOARDS $50 off COME TALK BOARDS!!! CUSTOM board Saturday, May 25 day of only! Noon - 4 p.m. SURFBOARD SALE PACKAGES! Shaper’s Day



SPECIAL!!!

Open Mon - Sat. 10-7 pm, Sundays 11-5 pm • 1775 Daily Drive #C • Camarillo (In the Baja Fresh Center) Revolution1996 Revolution Surf Co. REVOSURF.com (805) 383-1288

TIDELINES

Tarawa’s Tidebook Lesson STORY AND PHOTO BY MICHAEL KEW

arawa’s battlefields were cyan saltwater and white-sand beaches. Technically they weren’t fields. Technically the place wasn’t built for war. Technically, Tarawa was a beautiful, palmy atoll with a large lagoon and 24 sealevel islets. It was located 81 miles north of the equator in the sunny Central Pacific, where the trade winds blew steadily and the fish were profuse. It was a cozy, isolated place. Its air was warm and damp. Its people were pleasant and simple. Artillery was alien. But two years after Japan’s Pearl Harbor attacks, Tarawa’s fields lay crimson. And it was a bad place for surfing. From November 20 to 23, 1943, people suffered the horrors of bloodshed. Operation Galvanic, code name Longsuit, encompassed the brutal Battle of Tarawa. The atoll, one of the Gilbert Islands, was a strategically placed paradise in the Japan-U.S. Pacific theater of World War II. Japan had enraged America via Pearl Harbor and needed operable land (space was minimal in that part of the Pacific and included small islands, atolls, and unending swaths of sea) to draw a long defensive line against Yankee vengeance. The main goal for the Yanks was to acquire the Gilbert Islands: they had to intervene in the Mariana Islands because they needed to plant air bases across the Pacific that extended from the Philippines and into Japan. Basically, these were stepping stones from Oahu. The Marianas were heavily defended by the Japanese, and for the Yanks to win, land-based bombers were required. The nearest suitable base for the planes was the Marshall Islands, but the Marshall Islands were barred from U.S. communications with Oahu by a Japanese garrison on Tarawa. In 1941, Japan seized the Gilbert Islands from England. The Brits didn’t really need them. The Japanese took 20 months to extensively fortify Betio, a piece of coral three miles long and a halfmile wide, the southwestern most islet of Tarawa. They built an airstrip that was guarded by 4,500 troops in thick cement bunkers; the compound was linked by tunnels and protected by mines, barbed wire, and major weaponry. Betio was the world’s most heavily defended scrap of land. “A million men,” commander Keiji Shibazaki said, “cannot take Tarawa in a 100 years.” No problem, the U.S. said, we’ll do it in three hours. After all, its Tarawa invasion force was the largest ever assembled for a Pacific mission. U.S. battleships, cruisers, and destroyers obliterated Betio on November 20, 1943, in the predawn humidity. “There was a tremendous burst on the land,” embedded war journalist Robert Sherrod wrote, “Betio began to glow brightly from the fires the bombardment pattern had started. That was only the beginning.”

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE June 2013

Tarawa youth awaiting a different sort of aircraft.

With daybreak came ferocious streams of U.S. air strikes—torpedo bombers, dive-bombers, and fighter planes—that would segue to the foot-based troops deployed from warships into five landing crafts. “If there were actually any Japanese left on the island, which I doubted strongly,” Sherrod wrote, “they would all be dead by now.” A tide book would’ve helped. Instead of entering during a hoped-for high spring tide, the Marines’ landing craft entered the lagoon amid a listless medium tide and were stopped by the shallows 500 yards from shore. The depth wouldn’t change all day. The boats could go no farther. The troops were forced to slog through waist-deep water towards the beach. The Japanese saw this and opened fire. Rat-tat-tat-tat-tat-tat-tat. “…they would all be dead by now.” For the remaining Japanese, it was fish-in-a-barrel spree at 0900 hours. Most of the Americans were raked with ease. Eventually, a few U.S. amtrac (amphibious tractors) clawed over the reef and up onto the beach. Bodies littered the sand. The warm air reeked of death and smoke. For both sides, it would be a long day. The next morning, reinforcement U.S. troops made the same lagoon trudge; later, they came with amtracs and artillery. This allowed the Marines to penetrate Betio’s narrow interior. By afternoon, they had annihilated the Japanese and held the upper hand. By dark on day three, the cost of victory became high for the U.S.: 1,177 soldiers never went home. Scores were wounded. The death toll was much greater for Japan—of its 4,500 troops, only 17 survived. This set the stage for many more U.S. wins, and many more troops would die on Pacific islands before the war-ending A-bombs of ’45. “Before 1945 we were militaristic,” Japanese novelist Haruki Murakami told American novelist Paul Theroux. “After that, we were peace-loving and gentle.” Today, Tarawa is the capital of Kiribati (pronounced KIRR-ee-bas), a nation that was officially formed in 1979. Technically it is peaceful. Technically it is still bad for surfing.

VIEW FROM THE HILL

Paper is Heavy STORY BY RYAN A. SMITH / PHOTOS BY MARISA BREYER

inety-nine point nine nine percent of the time, moving sucks. There are rarely any ways around it. Moving is a life-disturbing hassle. Even though the anticipation of relocating to a better town or better space is the saving light at tunnel’s end, those prospects barely outweigh the headache of bubble-wrapping and carrying every fragile item you own, box by box, in and out of a U-Haul truck. My wife and I recently moved into a new house and a new office, which was doubly awesome fun. (And, man, my back is still killing me.) Transporting furniture and plants and televisions and electronics and file cabinets and other miscellaneous crap is one thing; surfboards and wetsuits and wall hangings and art supplies are a breeze to move, but lifting 50 crates of books and magazines is just plain sadistic. Paper is heavy. During those weeks of happy joy box-filling time, I started thinking: “Why do we physically transport nearly a ton (no exaggeration here) of paper from place to place?”Wouldn’t it be easier to load them all onto an electronic Nook reader or a hard drive or store them as PDFs on thumb drives? Of course, dealing solely with digitized files would make the process faster, maybe even as fast as cooking all your meals in a microwave. (Instead of stocking the refrigerator with wholesome foods and toting cupboards and drawers full of pots, pans, dishes, and silverware around, one could instead require only the nuke machine, a paper towel, and a bag of frozen burritos. And maybe some Del Scorcho sauce.) Certainly there are places and needs these days for quick consumption—be it information or sustenance—both on the job, and on the go. Of course, the supplemental digitizing of publications for electronic viewage is happening; it is a necessity today for everyone’s immediate froth when walking upright. I see that as an accompaniment: when the real print deal is out of reach, it's sort of like eating microwave popcorn when the hot and slick buttery stuff isn’t sold at a theater or fair or what have you. (The microwave version is good; I mean, it’s pretty good. C’mon.) But let’s be real, modern magazines worth their salt recognize where their meat and potatoes are made: in a full kitchen, where fire is used and food is served on porcelain plates. When there is time to slow down, sit back, and enjoy life’s finer accoutrements, masterfully crafted print magazines and books, as well as blue-ribbon meals, life is beautiful beyond compare. Pictures (particularly surfing photos) are meant to be (and were invented to be) viewed on high grade, glossy stock, and flipped intently by two hands. Poised stories should be digested properly from tangible pages that emanate fresh ink. Carefully designed layouts must be appreciated spread by gorgeously balanced spread: the subtle nuances of feature flow combined

The author's reads.

with proper pacing tickle the mental senses without disruption, from cover to back. Palpable magazines take you somewhere. Paper is heavy. Print will never die, and we wholeheartedly support that cause. This is also one reason to support homegrown paper efforts such as SLIDE Magazine and the one you are (hopefully) holding now. When faced with possible print extinction (see Newsweek and Skateboarder), we the magazine folk feel intent to dig in and fight it with both hands. Who’s got my back?

W W W. F C D S U R F B O A R D S . C O M

SURF SHOP & SURFBOARDS :: 43 S. Olive Street :: Ventura (805) 641-9428 :: MON-FRI 10am-5pm :: SAT 10am-6pm :: SUN 11am-5pm (hours subject to change depending on swell) PHOTO: Moncho Dapena © 2013 Fletcher Chouinard Designs, Inc.

www.DEEPZINE.com

DROPPING IN ON

PHOTO: JUSTIN BASTIEN

Troy Mothershead — A Jack of All Boards BY MICHAEL KEW

Mothershead backside sliding through a crisp Pierpont morning.

ou may have seen the grinning face of Troy Mothershead, 24, as he shreds and flows on various surf craft in the Tri Counties zone. Now is a good time as any to get to know the funny man in the Nineplus wetsuit.

DEEP: Who is Troy Mothershead? TROY MOTHERSHEAD: He’s a loud guy and a bit of a character, but he’s mostly enjoyable and will do his best to entertain you. He usually rocks a Hawaiian shirt and a pair of pants that may not fit properly (depending on how successful he was at hemming them). Raised in a world of competition and longboard roundhouses, he understands the true beauty and freedom of surfing anything propulsive. The joy of the Lord is his strength, and he mainly loves riding waves because it offers one of the raddest forms of connecting to the Creator. He prefers long righthand pointbreaks where all lengths, widths, and shapes are abundant. Beer is a four-letter word, and Troy enjoys it. In fact, he has recently brewed a black IPA. He’s climbed the Royal Arches in Yosemite, but would not claim himself to be a climber. Although his mother thinks he’s lactose intolerant, he loves ice cream. He might love football more than surfing, but considering his size, surfing was a more enticing pursuit.

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE June 2013

DEEP: Three years ago, Troy was in the running for Orange County Surfer of the Year. What happened? TM: He couldn’t put the phone down. Ad agencies across the nation were calling; he graced the cover of People magazine and nearly grossed $3 million that year. Troy dined with Hollywood’s finest, and even dated Katy Perry for a bit. Actually, he lost. Troy cried. Most of his votes came through his grandma’s book club, so maybe he won in spirit. DEEP: How did he end up living in the 805? TM: Patagonia was nice enough to employ Troy as an accountant right out of college. A friend of his was living in Summerland, who graciously became Troy’s roommate, and he lived there for a year. It was a great place and had an awesome commute, but the changing job sites and the approaching marriage of Troy’s roommate forced him to take up the convenience of sleeping on a pull-out couch in Pierpont. Troy is originally from San Clemente. He really enjoys it here: San Clemente has fun waves, great surfers, cultural diversity, more edginess, and a little less People magazine. DEEP: Describe Troy’s overall ruling mantra about surfing and what it means to be one around here.

: NEW LOCATION: : NEW ONLINE STORE :

PHOTOS: KEW

Troy Mothershead laying it down at Emma Wood on a 5'8" Ryan Lovelace Piggyback.

WE'RE ROLLING OUT ! AFTER A SOLID YEAR & HALF AT OUR CURRENT LOCATION WE WILL BE PLANTING A NEW SEED AT A RENOVATED LOCATION IN VENTURA . THANK YOU ALL FOR YOUR CONTINUOS SUPPORT, WE APPRECIATE EACH OF YOU . OUR ONLINE STORE WILL BE UP & RUNNING WHILE WE ARE MOVING . WE GOT YOU COVERED ! nk u! ThaY o

Troy Mothershead.

TM: Surfing is a wild thing. Bear with him, but Troy will argue that it’s the most connected human activity to nature in the world. You need an ocean, wind, swell, properly structured sea floor, maybe a beach, maybe a board, strength, balance, wave knowledge, and reactionary movement; all of those things have a few hundred variables among them. The other great thing is there are so many approaches and styles. The real bummer about surfing is that it fuels selfishness. You’re always searching for the best wave and often get trapped dogging people, sneaking around a person or two, and cursing set-wave riders. It’s especially easy for that to happen at a spot like Rincon. Troy doesn’t like that. Surfing needs to be more about fueling the stoke, the love, the enjoyment of being in such an epic environment. It should be shared. He is struggling, but he is really trying to take that approach when he enters the water. Troy thinks guys like the Gudauskas brothers and Ryan Burch have figured it out, so he’s taking notes. DEEP: What’s next for Troy Mothershead? TM: Ultimately, he just wants to have a good time. It’s easy to get caught up in the world, the attempts at exposure, and the glamour of fame; but at the end of the day, Troy wants surfing to be about the experience, and simply fun. His hope is to head to El Salvador with his cousin in May and also to attend the “Deus Ex Machina 9 Feet and Single” event in Bali in June. You can find him at around noon on most weekdays surfing the inside cove of C Street; and, if swell permits, joining the crowds of Rincon in the evenings and on weekends. He will continue to pursue whatever it is that fuels, strokes, ignites, and promotes the stoke of wave sliding. Finally, he will follow adventures when he is able to and will share good times at all times.

SURF

SHOP

GRAND RE-OPENING

SATURDAY

MAY 25

81V1ENE.TTUHROAMCPASLOIFNORBNLVIAD.

OP.COM

HOMEGROWNSURFSH

BOARD TRACHTING

PHOTO: BRIAN SALCE

“The Displacement Sled” SHAPED BY WHOME SURFBOARDS

BY SHAWN TRACHT Board tester, Shawn Tracht, giving "The Sled" his stamp of approval.

e afraid! Be outright terrified! “The Displacement Sled,” a.k.a. “The Five Feet of Fury,” by Jeff Scardine, is a postmodern wave-riding vehicle that blows the minds of fellow surfers into a warping helix of absurd complex thought! When this board is handed to you to ride, it will scare the bejesus out of you. Not only is the board Scardine give me only five feet but it also has a blunt nose and a wide, weird tail outline, and has a twin fin ... sometimes! Now I’ve ridden a plethora of twinnies in my day, and I love them. Yet I’ve never rode a twin fin that performed equally as radical as a finless board! If you love surfing with missile-like speed and aren’t afraid of this board’s sinister new-age haircut, you are in for a treat! Riding this board is like receiving a full size candy bar from the raddest haunted house on Halloween; it’s scary as all hell, but the rush of the ride keeps you coming back for more to feed this newfound addiction!

Shaper’s Take I called the board I shaped "Five-feet of CRAZY” because the shaper would have to be nuts to try and fuse all of these elements together and make them work. The overall outline of the board resembles the structure of a Jon boat, which correspondingly, has little to no rocker. Moreover, the front nose entry of the board has somewhat of a spoon element of the displacement hull. My biggest influences in designing this board were aspects like Tom Morey’s boogie board, Greenough’s designs, prone belly boards by Bing (which had no fins and a deep center channel on the bottom), and a small board that my good friend and mentor Troy Peters started with no fins, and a deep center channel that he eventually put two fins on. A displacement hull is made to hold in the water or to stick in the water. Additionally, a Jon

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE June 2013

boat is made to skim on top of the water, and at times, it can even slide around to avoid certain things like stumps because Jon boats are often made for areas like a swamp. The front end of the board (which is very displacement-esque), transitions on the rail to a more Jon boat-like feeling near the back of the board. Displacement hulls hold in the water, which keep the board constant; as a result, this board can withstand bigger surf: it turns, it carves, and it bottom turns. However, when you want to, you can release the board and make it slide around because of the Jon boat outline. Lastly, I had to put in a channel down the center of the board to give the board lift. Because of the holding aspect of the rail, I had to give the board more lift to do the necessary slide.

Surfer’s Take Flat equals fast, straight lines equal fast, parallel straight rail lines equal fast, and lift equals fast. Now I know that the mad scientist, Scardine, who created this board ran all of his mathematical, geometric calculations to come up with the perfect combination of all these elements; however, for me, the surfer, I just know it hauls ass! In essence, the board was like a 5’10” shorty (my normal shortboard length) with the nose cut off and a postmodern tail job. Yet, where a 5’10” shortboard would be narrower because the overall volume is in length, this displacement sled carried its volume in the belly of the board between my feet, which is where most of the action for generating and carrying speed takes place anyway. All of this speed gave me an opportunity to increase high-performance decisions on the wave, enabled faster cutbacks, allowed for more swooping turns, and induced a quicker get-up-and-go than a standard

Tracht, sledding under the curl.

PHOTO: TRACHT

PHOTO: BRIAN SALCE

The madscientist shaper, Jeff Scardine.

Tracht, near 12 o'clock on a board he wasn't sure would even turn when he got it.

PHOTO: J.R. LANE

Scardine, with Dow Foam from the hardware store and a mind full of next-gen ideas. The Displacement Sled's outline on rail.

shortboard with a lot of rocker (which helps a board turn quicker but slows it down). I didn’t need a ton of rocker in this board to help it turn quickly or perform because the decrease in length created a very similar feeling. Riding a shorter board with a tiny amount of rocker was kind of like having rocker; however, riding a shorter board with increased volume between my feet produced an overall faster, smoother ride. Even though this board is the ultimate small wave board, the most interesting part of the board is how it can hold in and not slide out on overhead waves as a twin fin does! Surfing overhead waves is about getting in early, setting a strong, clean rail line, and making sure your board doesn’t slide or skip out from under you on serious bottom turns. This board is fast because of its straight rail lines; these rail lines are useful because they enabled me to get the bottom of the wave much quicker than if I were on a shortboard. I would draw out my turns and carve back up to the curl with a smooth speed of a fully engaged rail. At the top of the critical section, the sky became the limit: there was only five feet of board underneath me as I executed carves, slashes, roundhouse pocket cutbacks, tail blows, and even a couple little airs. I had a mix of absolute rippers as well as intermediate surfers test ride this board; all of them were very skeptical when they grabbed the 5’0” of fury from me. Each surfer would assess the board with a ruthless wretched eye, yet when they tried to describe the speed and the stoke they had felt after just one wave, they began squealing like giddy high school girls. They all agreed that in the end, this board is not a risk: it’s the future. Still not sure? Go visit Shell Beach Surf Shop while there are still a few in stock and feel this board up for yourself!

PHOTO: BRIAN SALCE

PHOTO: BRENT LIEBERMAN

WHOME SURFBOARDS Shaper: Jeff Scardine, WhoMe Surfboards Board Shape/Design: “5 Feet of Fury” or “The Sled” How to Order: Order 10-12 inches shorter than your normal shortboard Fins: Any sized twin fins imaginable, or finless! Board’s Specialty: Small to medium sized waves, missile-like take offs, smooth lightening glide, long arching cutbacks, airs, 360-mania, lay backs, and on and on and on... This Board is Perfect For: Progressive-minded surfers. You won’t be taking a risk if you purchase this board, you’ll just be taking the tollway to get where you want to go on a wave faster! Surfboard Tester, Shawn Tracht’s Normal Shortboard: 5’10” x 18” x 2” Tracht Ordered This Board: 5’0” x 20” x 2” Shaper’s Contact Info: Website: whomeboards.com • Email: jeff@whomeboards.com Available at: Shell Beach Surf Shop • Surfer’s Blog: surfwanderer.com

www.DEEPZINE.com

SHAPER'S BAY

REVOLUTION HARDWARE Shaped by Sean O’Connor Revolution Mini Gun 7’2” x 11 5/8" x 14 3/4" x 13 2/3" x 2 3/4" Best in head-high, to double-overhead surf. Good travel board, perfect board to polish your style and trustworthy! Available at Surf Country (Goleta) (805) 683-4450

ROBERTS SURFBOARDS Shaped by Robert Weiner The Mutant • 5’6” x 20 1/8” x 2 5/16” Winged Swallow tail and comes standard with 5-fin option to be ridden as a Twin, Thruster, Quad, and Quad + Nub. Ideal in ankle, to shoulder-high, surf. It’s alive!!! The Mutant is a small wave groveler that gives you tons of down the line speed with great control for crazy high speed turns. A little more rocker and a winged swallow tail give even more of a performance tweak to this Mush Machine offspring. This board is sized 6-9 inches shorter 1 1/2 inches wider and 1/16 - 1/8 inches thinner than your high performance short board. Construction comes in: pu/poly, EPS/ Epoxy, Hydro flex natural, Hydro flex super charger, EPS InCide Epoxy, & RFT. Available Revolution Surf Co. (Camarillo) For more locations visit www.robertssurf.com

TOMO SURFBOARDS Shaped by Daniel Thomson Nano MPH 5’4” x 18 ½” x 2 1/8” The Tomo shapes display a tremendous amount of acceleration and down the line speed regardless of the size of the wave. All the materials are high performance. XTR foam, five fin FCS set-up. Size down 6-8 inches from your normal board ... same width and thickness. Surf in 2-8+ foot waves in all conditions. Available at WetSand Surf Shop (Ventura) (800) 750-7501

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE June 2013

WHITE OWL SURFBOARDS Shaped by Gregg Tally Santa Barbara Stubbie 6’4” x 19” x 22 ¼” x16 ¾” Templated from an original George Greenough design with the old Santa Barbara roundtail. The Santa Barbara Stubbie is designed for point-breaks, but will surf anything with some face to it. Fast, maneuverable and powerful, with a 10” Larry Allison flex fin to provide maximum slingshot effect off the bottom and up the face, then step on da gas. Available at Beach House (Santa Barbara) (805) 963-1281

ts r o p S r i ntain A oots, clothing,

Monouwboard, travel, hgiksin, Hgobbie kayaks, Ski, s ing ba ks, sleep c a ks. p , s t n te d car rac n a , r a e g climbing

www.glas.com

FREE INSTALLATION !

WILLIAM

DENNIS

WILLIAM DENNIS WILLIAM SURFBOARDS

DENNIS

SURFBOARDS

Shaped by Bill “Blinky” Hubina Mega Fish • 8’5” x 22” x 2 5/8” This is your all-around, jack-of-alltrades surfboard. It turns, goes fast, nose rides, great in bigger surf, a great competition board. Your go-to board! When you tell a shaper, you want a board that you can ride in any condition, a board that turns great, goes fast, nose rides, and paddles great, there is nothing out there that can compete with this board this board will fly through sections with a straighter rail line from the swallow tail through the mid-section of the rail line. It’s like having a accelerator pedal when you line up a section on the sweet spot of the board. ro Quad, swallow tail. Customs and demos available. Available at Ventura Surf Shop (805) 643-1062

Travel • Footwear • Car Racks

SHOP LOCALLY OWNED HOBIE KAYAK Demos Available!

SANTA BARBARA 14 STATE STREET 962-0049 Mon - Sat 10-6, Sun 11-5 At the Beach • Free Parking

SAN LUIS OBISPO 667 MARSH STREET 543-1676 Mon-Sat 10 - 6 Thurs 10 - 8, Sun 11- 4 Corner of Broad & Marsh

www.mountainairsports.com Locally owned and Operated for over 30 years!

SURF SHOP

SURFSHOP

BIKINIS BY

Acacia, Made by Dawn, Beach Riot X Stone Cold Fox, Issa de’ Mar, Maaji, Mikoh, Tyler Rose and surf suits by Seea 446 E MAIN STREET VENTURA WSURF.COM wetsandsurf

surfshop.com SURFSHOP.COM

COME IN AND CHECK OUT OUR

BRAND NEW

SWIMWEAR LINEUP FOR 2013

Closest Shop to the Con

Order your CUSTOM Matt Moore Board!!!

Shop Online! rincondesigns.net

(805) 684-2413 659 Linden Ave. Carpinteria

Boys & Arrows L*Space • Vitamin A Vix • Bettinis • Indah Roxy • Billabong Leilani • RVCA Volcom • O’Neill Rip Curl • Body Glove Sunsets • Made by Dawn Oakley • R Collection

ANISHA KOEPENICK IN M-PRINT

PHOTO DAVID PU’U

ACACIA MIKOH TORI PRAVER BEACH RIOT//SCF M-PRINT

PHOTO: DAVID PU'U / MODEL: ASIA IN MIKOH SWIMWEAR XAVIER CROCHET ONE PIECE. AVAILABLE AT SUNDANCE BEACH.

2013 SWIMSUIT ISSUE

Beach The

Story and Photos by David Puâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;u

Asia almost literally

stumbled across it on a jog along the shore near her home, an old wine bottle rolling in the whitewater. It was a little unusual to see an intact bottle at this beach, where the pounding shore break would make quick work of such a thing, reducing it to pieces that eventually wound up as

â&#x20AC;&#x201D; continued

DEEP SWIMSUIT ISSUE 2013

4 2

3 1. Hailey in Volcom Optical Tropical. Available at Revolution (Camarillo). Colin in Volcom New Jetty. Available at Revolution (Camarillo) 2. Tommy in Iron & Resin Jacobs. Available at Iron & Resin (Ventura) 3. Hailey in Sperry Top-Sider. Available at Bikini Factory (Summerland) 4. Anisha in Made by Dawn. Available at Rincon Designs (Carpinteria) 5. Colin in Iron & Resin Jacobs. Available at Iron & Resin (Ventura), Matt Moore snapback (available at Rincon Designs in Carpinteria), and TOMS Save the Waves Coalition Culver Polarized. Available at toms.com 6. Asia in M-Print Love Struck. Available at Rincon Designs (Carpinteria) / mprintswimwear.com 7. Asia in Lolli Swim Bow Bandeau. Available at Sundance Beach (Goleta) 8. Asia in Mikoh Swimwear Xavier Crochet. Available at Sundance Beach (Goleta) 9. Anisha in Makua Anela 10. Jonathan in Body Glove Vapors. Available at Surf Country (Goleta)

2013 SWIMSUIT ISSUE seaglass—which she would collect, and keep in a big mason jar on the sill in her bedroom. The glass sort of made her happy. Like talismen they were. Each piece a reminder of, something. Rescuing the bottle from a white watery grasp she was surprised to see a note rolled up inside. Funny, that old message in a bottle thing, she thought. Probably someone’s drunken joke after a night of fun. Upending it, the note exposed an edge and she was able to pull it out into the bright light of late morning in Southern California. Sure enough, there was a message. “If you have found this, I must believe

1. Tommy in Billabong PX:3 Recycler. Available at Ventura Surf Shop. 2. Anisha in Patagonia Aliam. Available at patagonia.com 3. Colin in Vans Boats and Bros. Available at Sundance Beach (Goleta). 4. Colin in Iron & Resin Cooper. Available at Iron & Resin (Ventura). 5. Jonathan in Volcom Anialtr PT Wash. Available at Sundance Beach (Goleta). 6. Asia in Odina Swimwear Bo Ho Short. Available at Sundance Beach (Goleta) / odinasurf.com 7. Anisha in Seea Sano One Piece Halter. Available at WetSand (Ventura) 8. Hailey in L Space / Vix Angola Ripple Tie Full. Available at Ventura Swimwear 9. Jonathan in Billabong Invert Magenta. Available at Sundance Beach (Goleta) 10. Anisha in Knotty Girl Bikini (red, yellow, mint). Available at Rincon Designs (Carpinteria) knottygirlbikinis.com

— continued

DEEP SWIMSUIT ISSUE 2013

2013 SWIMSUIT ISSUE

1. Insight Le Blur. Available at WetSand (Ventura) 2. Lars in Patagonia Stretch Planing. Available at Patagonia.com 3. Jonathan in O’Neill Super Freak. Available at Ventura Surf Shop 4. Anisha in Body Glove Love / Fiji. Available at Revolution (Camarillo) 5. Hailey in Rip Curl Spectrum Bandeau / Spectrum Hipster. Available at Ventura Swimwear 6. Asia in O’Neill Away Bra / Away Cinched. Available at Revolution (Camarillo) 7. Tommy in Volcom Heather Stripe. Available at Revolution (Camarillo) 8. Asia in Acacia Montauk / Maui. Available at WetSand (Ventura) 9. Tommy in Quiksilver Dane Reynolds. Available at Ventura Surf Shop 10. Asia in Billabong Davis Triangle / Norma Rio. Available at Sundance Beach (Goleta) 11. Lars in Brixton Beacons. Available at WetSand (Ventura). — continued

DEEP SWIMSUIT ISSUE 2013

2013 SWIMSUIT ISSUE 2

you are someone special. I am sitting by the side of Hwy 1 and my parents are waiting back at the car. We are on our way to the airport in LA. I am going to miss this place. Last year my parents decided to start a new life in Costa Rica. Today, after a year of planning and preparing, is my last day here. I am a little bit sad, but a lot bit excited. I am 10. My Dad showed me a secret beach that you get to through a tunnel under the highway when I was very little. On the back of this note is a map. I learned a lot from this beach. It was â&#x20AC;&#x201D; continued

DEEP SWIMSUIT ISSUE 2013

1. Hailey in Quintsol Summer Breeze. Available at Bikini Factory (Summerland). 2. Asia in Odina In the Curl. Available at Sundance Beach (Goleta) / odinasurf.com 3. Asia and Hailey in Odina Swimwear (odinasurf.com) and Quintsol (Bikini Factory) 4. Anisha in Patagonia Kupala / Paries. Availalble at patagonia.com 5. Hailey in M-Print Solara. Available at European Tan (Goleta) / mprintswimwear.com 6. Anisha in Knotty Girl Bikini (multi-stripe). Available at Rincon Designs (Carpinteria) / knottygirlbikinis.com 7. Anisha in Beach Riot // SCF Swim Palm Tree. Available at Rincon Designs (Carpinteria) and WetSand (Ventura) 8. Lars in Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Neill Grinder. Available at Ventura Swimwear.

2013 SWIMSUIT ISSUE

1. Hailey in Rip Curl Tiki Goddess Halter / Tiki Hipster. Available at Revolution (Camarillo). 2. Lars in Patagonia Stretch Planing. Available at patagonia.com 3. Asia in Frankies Kora Tie Bandeau / Ku’uipa Cheeky String. Available at Sundance Beach (Goleta) 4. Anisha in M-Print Your Majesty. Available at Rincon Designs (Carpinteria) / mprintswimwear.com 5. Asia in Maaji Ladie and Gents / Black. Available at WetSand (Ventura) 6. Lars in Quiksilver. Available at Rincon Designs (Carpinteria) 7. Hailey in Mikoh Swimwear Kirra / Dreamland. Available at Rincon Designs (Carpinteria) 8. Tommy in Eidon Emeralds. Available at Surf Country (Goleta) 9. Anisha in M-Print Harmony. Available at The Shop (Laguna Beach) / mprintswimwear.com 10. Asia in Boys+Arrows Thelma Ruffle Band / Lousie High Waist. Available at Sundance Beach (Goleta)

where I fell in love with the ocean. I never see anyone there but us. I really want to share it with someone. Since you are reading this, it must be you. Go there some day please. Take a friend or two, and remember to share what it, gives you. Hope that you find some seaglass!” XO Marin The following week was a school holiday, so Asia got a few of her friends together and they piled — continued

DEEP SWIMSUIT ISSUE 2013

2013 SWIMSUIT ISSUE into Tommyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Corvair van and headed up coast. Tommy worked as a lifeguard at Zuma and he thought it would be a fun thing to do, find an empty beach after dealing with the daily crowds that comprised life and work on his own stretch of shore. This is what they all found. 1

1. Hailey in Sacred Surf Hawaii. Available at sacredsurfhawaii.com 2. Asia in Maaji Pentagram Shore Halter / Cherry Reve Chi Chi. Available at Sundance Beach (Goleta) 3. Asia in Maaji (available at WetSand in Ventura) and Anisha in L Space (available at Rincon Designs in Carpinteria) 4. Lars in AMBSN Cowboy. Available at WetSand (Ventura). 5. Anisha in L Space (Rincon Designs) 6. Hailey in Raisins R Collection (available at Bikini Factory in Summerland) and Tommy in Eidon Nomad (available at Surf Country in Goleta) 7. Asia in Odina Swimwear In the Curl. Available at Sundance Beach (Goleta) / odinaswimwear.com 8. Jonathan in Insight Satanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Taco (mid). Available at Rincon Designs (Carpinteria) 9. Asia in Knotty Girl Bikini (white S.B. resin ring). Available at Rincon Designs (Carpinteria) / knottygirlbikinis.com 10. Tommy in Eidon Multi. Available at Surf Country (Goleta) 11. Lars paddling using Kialoa GL Surf Light paddle. Available at kialoa.com 12. The girls in M-Print. Available at mprintswimwear.com

Director: Lead photographer David Pu'u Producer: Andres Nu単o Assistant Producer: Brianna Russell Designer: Donna Von Hoesslin Models: Asia Carpenter, Anisha Koepenick, Hailey Partridge, Colin Andersen, Tommy Doman Lars Rathje, Jonathan Pu'u Jewelry Provided by: Betty B./DvH / bettybelts.com Belladaar Jewelry / belladaarjewelry.com Food: Olas / Carlos Reyes Tanning Services: Solymar Tanning, Mary Osborne

DEEP SWIMSUIT ISSUE 2013

Your New Women’s Boutique Carrying all the Latest Fun Trends & Classics!

Women’s Clothing Hudson Jeans Local Jewelry Handbags Accessories Now Carrying 919 Linden Ave. Downtown Carpinteria (805) 566-0400

Open Mon. - Sat. 10 - 5:30 pm • Sunday 10 - 4 pm

SAVE THE DATE!!!

Sunday, July 21 at 9 a.m.

Paddle Out For Hope!!!

Water Friendly. Unique. Functional.

Carpinteria Beach at Linden Avenue “BE THERE, HELP FIGHT CANCER!” To Pre-Register email carppaddleout@gmail.com www.relayforlife.org/carpinteriaca • (805) 560-6573

805.798.0859 knottygirlbikinis.com

B Swim Reef Luli Fama Vix L Space Billabong O’Neill Volcom Lucy Love Maui Babe Awesome Selection of Swimwear Separates & 1-Pieces

Ventura Swimwear “Where it’s all about the fit and making you look good”

1559 Spinnaker Dr. • 805-642-6281 VENTURA HARBOR VILLAGE

Bikini Factory IN SUMMERLAND

D, DD & Custom Kids to Adults Sundresses Sandals & More

2275 Ortega Hill Rd.

Summerland

(805) 969-2887

Sarah Lee

Infants to plus sizes, Men’s & Boys

www.odinasurf.com Available at Sundance Beach in Santa Barbara Nikau Kai in Manhattan Beach • Grace & Greene in Redondo Beach

G N I G N CHA

S E N LA

S T O R Y B Y D. E . P U T N A M / P H O T O S B Y A N T H O N Y L O M B A R D I “So is this great and wide sea, wherein are things creeping innumerable, both small and great beasts. There go the ships; there is that leviathan, whom thou hast made to play therein.” —Psalms 104:25-26

he long relationship between sailors and whales at sea can be traced back thousands of years. In his exhaustive history, Men and Whales, author Richard Ellis cites the chronicles of Alexander the Great, events which took place some 2,300 years ago, as “one of the earliest records of man’s interactions with whales.” Therein lies a passage that describes men rowing in relatively puny watercraft within visible distance of whales; these men were terrified, they had never seen these creatures and had never known anything about them. Throughout the centuries, larger and more capable vessels were invented, which eventually led to the advent of commercial whaling and the near extinction of several species, such as blue whales. Societal views toward wildlife may have radically changed, but blue whales remain an endangered species and are afforded the nation’s strongest legal protection. Despite current safeguards, humanity’s increased maritime traffic has increased the risk of a new threat: death by ship strike.

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE June 2013

The Santa Barbara Channel is one of the best places on the planet to see whales and dolphins.

In 2007, four blue whales died in the Santa Barbara Channel region after being struck by ships. It represented a relatively high number of deaths and was officially deemed an “Unusual Mortality Event,” which under the Marine Mammal Protection Act “demands immediate response.”The National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) responded by launching a multipronged effort involving numerous governmental agencies, and a wide variety of interested parties of concerned community members. “We began a comprehensive approach of research and monitoring,” Sean Hastings of NOAA said, “education and outreach, and then considered different policies to minimize the threat of ship strikes.” Hastings serves as the Channel Islands National Marine Sanctuary Resource Protection Coordinator. NOAA worked in concert with its Sanctuary Advisory Council, which is made up of 21 different members each representing different interests in the area. Ten government members represent various local, state, and federal agencies. Eleven community members represent a diverse range of activities including: education, research, conservation, commercial fishing, sport fishing, tourism and other general business and public concerns. “Much of what now guides NOAA’s day-to-day research for policy development to protect whales reflects the input and advice provided by the Sanctuary Advisory Council,” Hastings said. “NOAA researched and modeled ways of reducing ship strikes by looking at habitat, whales and shipping lanes,” Hastings — continued

Torpedo-like, a massive blue whale in the Santa Barbara Channel.

www.DEEPZINE.com

CHANGING

LANES

Chow time.

Blues, the largest mammal on the planet.

Up for air.

PHOTO BY CHUCK GRAHAM

said. “We counted whales from the air and from the water and worked with the whale watch industry to determine where whales congregate.”The data was combined with analysis of how ship strikes were successfully reduced in other regions of the country and the findings were presented to the Coast Guard. The information was used to determine where whale hot spots overlap with shipping lanes. “The Coast Guard was then able to suggest modifications to the lanes in a way that maintains safety of navigation, which is paramount,” Hastings claimed, “because even though it is terrible that whales get hit, two ships colliding and oil spilling through the whole Channel is worse.” A detailed, custom-tailored policy proposal was developed based on the unique geography of the Santa Barbara Channel Tail fluke. and the habits of whales and the needs of ships. The proposal was submitted to the International Maritime Organization (IMO), the international body that governs shipping and modifies transit lanes. In June 2013, as a result of this collaborative work, the IMO will modify Santa Barbara Channel shipping lanes in a way that not only maintains safety of navigation but also provides greater protection for whales. The width of the lanes will be narrowed and the southbound lane will be moved one nautical mile north. “One mile allotted for a hundred-foot animal is not a huge amount of space,” said Hastings. “That is covered very easily and very quickly, but it’s what whales are doing within that one mile that matters.” Shifting the lane one mile northward moves shipping traffic away from a crucial habitat feature where the whales feed. Along the north side of the Channel Islands runs a 200-meter isobath or submarine contour, which has been correlated with an abundance of krill that attracts hungry whales. “The vast majority of whale sightings are right in and over that 200-meter isobath,” Hastings said. “What we think is happening is deep currents and upwelling is pushing nutrients and thus krill toward the surface in that area,” he said. Moving the shipping lane away from prime Two extremes. feeding grounds will help reduce the likelihood of whales congregating within the heavily trafficked navigation route. side from modifying shipping lanes, the goal is to develop a more dynamic and interactive approach for protecting whales. NOAA is currently working on a whale spotter application for smartphones, which will be available to the general public. “You could go out on your surf trip and use the app to collect whale data in real time,” Hastings explains. “Then, once you’re within network coverage, the data will be directly uploaded to us.”The app will note the GPS coordinates of where the whales are sighted. That information will be used to notify large container ships of the most current and well-known locations of whales in the channel. In past years, the general management practice was to issue broad, unspecific seasonal warnings and request for ships to slow down if there were whales anywhere in the channel. By pinpointing the specific locations of whales in real time, the app will provide them with a greater degree of protection as well as minimize disruptions in maritime commerce. Our stretch of the Pacific is heavily plied by both vessels and whales. “The Santa Barbara Channel contains some of the most biologically diverse waters on the planet,” the Coast Guard noted in a 2011 Port Access Route Study. The goal of the research is to reduce marine mammal deaths caused by ship strikes and to increase shipping efficiency. “Within these waters is the Channel Islands National Marine Sanctuary,” reads the report, “which is host to the densest seasonal population of blue whales in the world.” The channel is also highly trafficked by large cargo ships. It is “one of the busiest shipping corridors in the country,” the PHOTO BY CHUCK GRAHAM

A 50

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE June 2013

“LET ME MAKE WHAT WORKS FOR YOU” JVP SURFBOARDS

Custom Shapes by John Perry

DEGROOT ON A THREEDOM / PHOTO JON SHAFER

Santa Barbara County Air Pollution Control District noted in a letter to the California Air Resources Board in 2012. The District is currently working to lessen emissions from cargo vessels by providing incentives for speed reduction, which might lessen the risk of deadly ship strikes for whales. The waters in and around the Santa Barbara Channel are amazingly rich in marine life and remarkably busy in governmental, commercial, and recreational activities. The sea in this area serves as a host for shipping, oil production, fishing, surfing, diving, boating, tourism and a number of other water-oriented activities. It is home to the Pacific Missile Test Range, which is one of the Navy’s largest offshore weapons training areas in the world. The diverse and complex nature of this valuable region makes it challenging to manage; it requires a tremendous amount of research, collaboration, and cooperation among many disparate interests. There are no quick fixes or easy answers. Yet, as lead by NOAA, the Coast Guard, other agencies, and active citizens in the local community, there is sure to be progress. And it appears to benefit all parties involved, including the original inhabitants of the Santa Barbara Channel: the whales.

I came to John asking for a fun, loose, small wave board. I have a 5’7” model and it’s the funnest small wave board I’ve ever had. Down the line, carving, floating, playing, no limits. A must have for small waves. - Tony DeGroot

(805) 637-5100 / JVPSURFBOARDS.COM www.DEEPZINE.com

P H O T O E S S AY > B R E N T L I E B E R M A N

STORY BY CHUCK GR AHAM

THENandNOW PHOTO BY STEVE BISSELL

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE June 2013

Brent Lieberman has been a surf-stoked photographer for over 40 years. He’s fired off a lot of frames spanning those decades; his first fascination with photography began when he was a 9-year-old grommet. After his dad bought him a small Kodak Brownie camera, Brent was hooked. It wasn’t until Lieberman met former surfing champion Dru Harrison in 1969, who was part of the “Hermosa Crew,” that his career as a surf photographer took shape. “Dru knew everyone in the industry,” recalled Lieberman. “He was indispensible in introducing

1. Me on the left, with my friend Russ Fass on our way to K306. Circa 1966. 2. Donald Takayama riding the "Scorpion" boardâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;what has been called the first short board in Californiaâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;at Hermosa, circa 1967. 3. Dru Harrison surfing in front of his house at 14th Street in Hermosa, circa 1971. 4. Rincon, December 1969. I believe that is Margo Godfrey Oberg walking out in the foreground. It was pumping!

7 8

5. Little Rincon, circa 1967. 6. Jeff Sibley riding the "Cove" at Pacific Ocean Park. 7. Reno Abilerro at Rincon, December 1969. 8. David Nuuhiwa leaving his mark on a huge one at Rincon during the first week of the December 1969 mega swell. 9. Miki Dora riding that mega swell of December 1969 at Rincon.

www.DEEPZINE.com

P H OTO E S S AY > B R E N T L I E B E R M A N

Photo Essay > Brent Lieberman

10 12

THEN

10. The guards at Radar Towers in these days meant business. You had to be very sneaky to score here! Circa 1970.

11. The K306 encampment in Baja. Our friend John lived there for a year or so, and we would go down and bring him supplies every few months. Good surf, good time and good friends, circa 1967. 12. Miki Dora in Malibu.

13. Mike Purpus at Hermosa, circa 1972. 14. PJ Wahl at Dreamland 1978.

15. One of our many Baja explorations. A hundred kilometers from the nearest town, drinking beer all-day and looking for surf! Circa 1966.

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE June 2013

NOW

16. Walter Cerny doing the patented "Wallnuts."

17. Rincon Cove.

18. Kilian Garland catching a bomb during that "Pitcarin" south swell a couple of summers ago.

19. Bobby Martinez setting up for a big round one at Dreamland. 20. Brandon Smith coming out of the tube of the day at Abalone Reef.

www.DEEPZINE.com

P H OTO E S S AY > B R E N T L I E B E R M A N me to the magazines and manufacturers. It really jump started my career.” Back in the late ‘60s, Lieberman struggled with balancing his life as a pro surfer and his life as a photographer. After teetering back and forth on the subject, surf photography took the cake. “You were either surfing on the good days, and shooting on the crappy ones or vice versa,” said Lieberman. “I decided to shoot on the good ones.” Eventually he graduated to a NikonF

21 22

21. Mile Wallace turning hard at Abalone Reef.

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE June 2013

(1) Early morning glitter at Abalone Reef.

NOW

Photomic ftn with a motor drive and a Century 650mm lens. This equipment, Lieberman said, “changed his (my) world.” Lieberman also built his own water housing for his Nikomat with a 135mm lens. After investing in his new toy, Lieberman published his images in both Surfing and Surfer Magazine and in advertisements for Kanvas by Katin, Small Faces, ET Surfboards, and Bing. Today, his work has appeared in advertisements in Patagonia, Fox, Esteem Surf Co., West Wetsuits and Billabong. As much as Lieberman enjoyed his early days surfing and photographing, he still manages to find plenty of inspiration in his everyday life. “The level of surfing done today is just something I wouldn’t ever have imagined back in the ‘60s and ‘70s,” he said. To see more of Lieberman’s images, go to www.photos805.com.

22. Walt Cerny was catching some amazing tube rides this day at Dreamland. 23. Early morning glitter at Abalone Reef.

24. Gabe Venturelli coming out of a really long tube ride at Abalone Reef.

23 24

25. Killian Garland, early morning speed run, at very restricted, top-secret point break. 26. Nate Winkles on one of the best days at Dreamland.

27. Kevin Majors early morning at the Pier. 28. Bobby Martinez slicing into some solid Silver at Rincon. 29. Ricky Gannon riding a solo session.

www.DEEPZINE.com

PHOTOS: JP GARCIA

BY CHELSEA FAULKNER

Surfing in its purest form.

— continued

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE June 2013

Sandbar Surf Company Avila Beach, Shell Beach, Pismo Beach, Morro Bay, Cayucos www.vancurazasurfschool.com (805) 543-SURF Van Curaza or Amanda

Pismo Beach (Park Ave. parking lot meeting place) jonny@sandbarsurf.com www.sandbarsurf.com $85/private lesson - $60/group lesson Special group rates available for organizations. Gift certificates available. Open every day!

Santa Barbara Surf Adventures

Surf Happens Surf Camps

by Beach House Leadbetter Beach, Santa Barbara www.santabarbarasurfadventures.com (805) 963-1281 Roger Nance

Santa Claus Beach, Carpinteria www.surfhappens.com (805) 451-7568 Chris and Jenny Keet

Ocean Adventures by A-Frame Surf Shop

City of Carpinteria Surf Camp

Van Curaza Surf

Santa Claus Beach, Carpinteria www.summerbeachcamp.com (805) 684-8803 Sam or Rob Holcombe

Sandyland & Ash Avenues, Carpinteria M-F, June 24 - Aug. 9 (9:30-12:30 & 1:30-4:30) OceanRec@yahoo.com (805) 684-5405 / Matt Simon Ages 8 and up $155 week / Drop-In $40 www.DEEPZINE.com

Adam Lambert and Mike Walters are one of the many local top area surfers helping out at surf camps.

SaNta BarBara Surfer

.com

Photo: Jon Shafer

Surf reportS * Swell forecaStS * photoS * VideoS * profileS

SUMMER SURF CAMPS! Surf School & Camps Surfing, Safety & Fun for All Ages 805-543-SURF (7873) vcsurfschool@gmail.com

The Central Coast’s BEST Surf School

www.vancurazasurfschool.com

Channel Islands Wildlife Cruises HIKE • KAYAK • RELAX

photo: steve munch

Day Trips or Camp on Local or Remote Outer Islands

WHALE WATCHING • DINNER CRUISES Authorized Concessionaire to the Channel Islands National Park

islandpackers.com • 805-642-1393

Val Surf Celebrates

50 YEARS

PHOTOS: BLAKE RICHARDS

SURF SHOP DOWN LOW

BY SHAWN TRACHT

ruthfully, all surfers dream of living a life that revolves entirely around surfing and the surf industry. However, most of us don’t end up figuring out exactly how to do that. Somehow, in our failing attempts to enter the business, most of us end up working in some other job, only dreaming of surfing and its periphery all day long. Fifty years ago, Mark “Wally” Richards, his father, and his siblings opened up Val Surf in North Hollywood. Here, they planted their family a seedling business that has supplied generations of their lineage with surf industry jobs. As the story goes, Mark’s father was in the record industry in Los Angeles. When he got laid off, he spent much of his time schlepping his two boys, Mark and Kurt, from the Valley over the hill and to the beach. The boys were surfers, and that was that. Mark and his father were nearly always in need of gear because of the necessity of the sport, so Mark and his father started thinking about opening their own surf shop for all of the surfers in the Valley. There was a

A family affair. From left, Brandon, Mark and Blake Richards.

need for a legitimate board shop in the Valley: the reality was that not all surfers lived at the beach. The Richards saw this need as their ticket to surf freedom and built a family business around it. In 1962, they believed the first thing the shop needed to legitimize itself was a core brand: it was tough to convince Hobie to enter a market in the Valley and be his very first dealer outside of Dana Point. He finally agreed, and surfers quickly discovered that Val Surf was for real. Since then, they have been known “Helping as the first dealer in the Valley to stock brands INSPIRE people like Quiksilver, Hang Ten, O’Neill and Burton. challenged by Still, over 50 years later, the shop carries CANCER through all of the top surf brands, has an incredible showroom of surfboards, and has even the POSITIVE expanded to a total of five surf shops from ENERGY their original location in Valley Village. They of SURFING” have shops in Pasadena, Valencia, Thousand Oaks, and Woodland Hills. Val Surf can also claim that they’re the oldest surf/skate/ snowboard shop in the world that still has September 20-21, 2013 in Pismo Beach the original owners. The business, first started Memorial Paddle Out & Benefit Dinner by Mark and his father, is now run by Mark, Friday, September 20 his brother Kurt, and their children, Brandon, Blake and Denise. Longboard Surfing Contest & Health Fair Serving clientele of all ages, Val Surf is the Saturday, September 21 destination shop for surfers in the L.A. area Registration & information: www.surfingforhope.com as well as a board shop for surfers living in the immediate area. If you haven’t visited the original shop in Valley Village, stop by the next All proceeds beneﬁt the time you’re in the area and soak up a little bit programs and patients at of surf history.

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE June 2013

The Val Surf location in Valley Village.

Val Surf Open M-F, 9 a.m. – 8 p.m., Sat. 10 a.m. – 6 p.m., Sun. 11 a.m. – 6 p.m. 4810 Whitsett Ave., Valley Village, CA • (818) 769-6977 (Also visit their locations in Pasadena, Valencia, Thousand Oaks, and Woodland Hills) www.valsurf.com

BRANDS CARRIED: Quiksilver/Roxy, Volcom, RVCA, O’Neill, Billabong, Hurley, Brixton, Reef, Sanuk, Olukai, Vans, Nike, Channel Islands, Roberts, Lost, Rusty, McCrystal, Burton, Lib Tech, Girl, DC, Deluxe, Oakley, Electric, VZ, Spy, Ray Ban, Nixon, plus more!

Shape your own. your one stop surf shop. starting at $450. Serving Goleta for 16+ years. PHOTO: MIKE HAMER

Includes Blank, Glass Job, Fins for boards 5’8” - 6’6”

(805) 683-4450  www.surfcountry.net 109 S. Fairview Ave., Goleta  Open Monday-saturday, 10-7p, Sunday, 10-5P

T R AV E L

CANADA

Cruel and Unusual Riffing on

British Columbia y're here in numbers.

Bears. They're here and the

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE June 2013

BY MICHAEL KEW PHOTOS BY MARK McINNIS

Good friends, raging fire, cold bevvys, and all smiles after surfing perfect waves with nobody else around for miles and miles.

On your first day in Canada, you might find yourself mapless in a

Oh yeah, there are lefts too. Really, really, good lefts. Although he'd prefer to go right, Raph will wind up on just about anything.

4X4 pickup truck, negotiating a snowbound signless logging road. This road has many forks and is terribly disorienting. You might inadvertently pull up to the head of a desolate fjord. It’s a ways down, at the base of a cliff. You can see a pebbly beachbreak, a flawless right point, and an enticing left rivermouth, but despite the epic scenery and proximity to the open ocean, these possibilities are lake-flat. However, on the outside, the exposed coast is bombing. Slabs galore. A jet ski would be useful, but trailering it on that road would bang the thing to bits. The other issue would be where to launch it. Also, you would be alone. On your second day in Canada, you might deal with unruly swell. Aside from finding a surfable spot, it might be a chore to get to that swell. Beyond the small dark town from where you drove, there is scant pavement, many remote harbors, overgrown hiking trails, steep cliffs, impassable alpine ridges of rock and snow, and dense forests that average about 20 feet of rain annually and are pelted by furious winds and enormous seas. On your third day in Canada, you might find yourself walking on one of those overgrown trails, with slick mud covering the crossings of four waist-deep creeks. You are in black bear territory. Dense, wet foliage smothers much of the path, so most of the hike is done in your 6mm full suit and 7mm booties as you hold your surfboard and pack over your head. After an hour or two, you spy a vista through the trees that reveals the northwest surf experience: a gray Pacific, jagged black rocks, and some variation of rideable surf that depending on your attitude, might not justify the risk. For most surfers, Canada is a cruel and unusual place. “My reality here is that it takes a lot of effort to find good waves,” Raphael Bruhwiler confided to me from his home in Tofino (voted “Best Surf Town in North America” in 2010 by Outside Magazine). “If you’re not prepared, you can die very easily, and if something goes wrong, you’ve got to stay warm. Lately, we’ve been wearing dry suits because if you fall out of my boat, you can survive. If you fall out wearing a lifejacket, you’ll die in about 20 minutes since the water is so cold. And dry suits protect you from rain; you’ll never get wet, which is really necessary until you’re actually surfing.” A gritty soldier of British Columbia (Canada’s westernmost province), Raph needs no introduction. You’ve seen his name in surf magazines: his wet-suited frame is captured in countless slab-barrel shots, he has appeared in dozens of ads for his surf school, and he created a woodsy video series called “Innersection,” that features his sheer skill as a surfer in Canada’s frigid — continued

www.DEEPZINE.com

T R AV E L

CANADA waters. During the 2010 Winter Olympics torch relay, you saw him proudly hoist the flame as he surfed toward the white Tofino sand. Besides his dear friend Pete Devries, Raph is arguably Canada’s most famous surfer, almost unilaterally pegging the Maple Leaf Nation to the world surf map. On flat days, Raph uses his time by findi Vancouver Island’s waves aren’t what the world wants them to ng ways to keep his family happy and healthy. Here, he and his oldest son, Shea, go be, especially since the best waves have no roads to them, and good hunting for deer. boats with good weather can be tough to orchestrate. On the contrary, whatever Tofino’s beachbreaks lack in quality and character might be redeemed by their car-park access for anyone with wheels or a thumb. But no one visits Vancouver Island to surf those beachbreaks. They suck. “There are still so many spots to discover,” Raph ponders, “but it’s such a huge and rugged stretch of coast that it’s hard to be at the right place at the right time. If I had a ton of money or a helicopter or a floatplane to buzz around in, I’m sure many more spots would be discovered.” (laughs) Once, he was my seatmate on a less esoteric kind of flight. “Better put your jackets on,” the Air Canada Jazz stewardess had yelled over the noise. “It’s a bit breezy out there!” As we stepped through the Dash 8’s door, we were nearly blown off the airplane stairs. The wind was sharp, and the air was freezing. Black storm clouds loomed. Behind the tiny airport were jagged, snow-covered mountains, and in the distance lay one of the world’s most feared and wicked waterfetches, smeared white by a southeasterly gale. “At least it’s offshore somewhere!” someone yelled over the din. This was expected. For weeks leading up to our departure,

Though the best waves are boat access only, the beach breaks around town can look mighty fine on their day.

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE June 2013

Growing up in Santa Cruz has helped Josh Mulcoy have one of the smoothest and recognizable forehand carves in the business. These days, Mulcs prefers to unleash turns like this in the world's most remote zones.

This is Canada's version of Lance's Right. No sections. I’d monitored the island’s daily weather online, and the forecasts No closeouts. Just a perfect were repetitive like the one posted the day of our arrival: right point with every molecule of water exactly Storm warning continued. Wind warning in effect. where it is supposed to Tonight. Rain. Amount 20 mm. Wind southeast 50 to 70 km/h be and Raph Bruhwiler increasing to 70 to 100 overnight. Low plus 5. exactly where he is supposed to be. Thursday. Rain. Amount 20 mm. Wind southeast 70 to 100 km/h

becoming south 40 to 60 in the afternoon. High 8. Thursday night. Rain. Amount 10 to 15 mm. Wind southeast 50 to 80 km/h. Low 8. Friday. Rain. Wind southeast 50 to 70 km/h increasing to 70 to 100 then becoming south 30 late this afternoon. High 10. On the bus heading to town, a filthy fisherman with an odd drawl promised us that there was a giant wave “just like Maverick’s” that broke out in front of a fishing lodge his friend worked for out on the West Coast. “It breaks best when the winds are about 70 knots onshore,” the fisherman said. — continued

www.DEEPZINE.com

T R AV E L

CANADA

Josh Mulcoy. Timeless style.

e wild it gets. The further north you go, the mor

“These huge rollers just come up out of nowhere and boom, they’re taller’n a totem pole.” “Which way does it break?” we asked, eyebrows raised. “Left or right?” “Oh, just straight in, right toward shore.” Outside our motel, the passersby mocked us; one woman thought we’d brought oversized snowboards. Three loggers in the café next door thought we were hippie tree-planters from the large city of Vancouver. Apparently, tree-huggers/planters were not particularly admired out here despite the island’s forests being logged at twice the sustainable rate. Still, we would not be digging holes for cedar saplings. “You guys are here to go surfing?” the loggers asked, laughing at us. “Good luck!” Down at the harbor, another local said we were out of our minds. If we wanted to go surfing, we needed to go somewhere like California or Hawaii. He suggested that we start drinking whiskey instead and join him at a nearby cocktail lounge, where there would be “guaranteed fights.” While the offer of drinking and fighting proved nearly irresistible, we declined and retreated to a dingy Chinese restaurant. Here, we checked the online forecast and brainstormed our plan between fork loads of MSG. Nearshore buoys reported a 27-foot windswell. Heading seaward in a boat was undesirable. To say the least, the surfing conditions looked pretty bad. “It’ll probably get worse,” Raph said. “Hopefully it will blow 70 knots onshore,” I said. This was not Raph’s immediate home turf. We were not near the apple of his surf eye, a rogue slab deep in the inclement wilds of Clayoquot Sound. Clayoquot, by the way, was derived from the name of the local First Nations (i.e. Native American) band called the Tla-o-qui-aht, which translates to “changing” or “different.” After gazing out at shifting rain clouds, distant snowcaps, and listening to the wind shriek past the dirty restaurant windows, we felt we could almost relate to each

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE June 2013

other. We’d found fun, albeit the gutless waves at one lefthand rivermouth, but really, up until that point, we had driven an average of 150 miles a day with no music, in a rented four-wheel-drive truck, and coated the cab floor with food wrappers and empty water bottles. After being in that truck for hour upon hour, we fidgeted, farted, and let the comedy flow freely. Let’s see what’s down that road became the theme of our journey; the driver (me) repeatedly and abruptly veered the truck off the main road and down sketchy singletracks in the dense rain forest. Usually, this led us to an impassable hole, a horizontal tree, another flat beachbreak, or to the cabin of a reclusive family or an incoherent, loudmouthed hippie who didn’t want us there. Other locals were more cerebral (search “Vancouver Island surfers hanging out with our Orcas” on YouTube). “Yeah,” Raph says from Tofino. He’s just returned from another camping trip to his beloved slab. “I’ve had a few close encounters with orcas. He chuckles. “But I think they know that humans taste like (crap).” Watching this wave in video parts and seeing it in the mags over the years, I always thought it looked like the type of wave that would really suit learning how to ride the barrel. Boy oh boy, was that ignorant of me. Backdoor meets Canada. Welcome to "the slab."

A NEW Multifunctional Sports Bag Has Arrived

SACRED su r f hi.com

www.NEWFSURFBOARDNET.com

Transports

Easy to Carry

Showers Off

No Sand

Easy to Store

ivan langhoff

SKATEBOARDS, BUILT TO ORDER. 866.852.5891

CALL FOR INFO

DANLEVIN.COM

deva kane

FACEBOOK.COM/DANLEVINART

WE ARE CALIFORNIA GROWN

.com

THESE ARE RIDEABLE!

GREEN ROOM

Republicans Want to Legalize Hemp — Something Smells Fishy? BY DEREK DODDS / ILLUSTRATION BY EMILY BOELSEMS

he Controlled Substances Act of 1970 made it a felony to grow cannabis, including hemp. Forty-three years later, capitalism is starting to push those puritanical interests aside. The American hemp industry sells $450 million worth of hemp-related products every year, from hemp oil to Wave Tribe surf gear. Yet all the raw material used to produce these products is still illegal to grow in the United States. Is there a GREEN light at the end of the 2013 tunnel? A few politicians are waking up to the benefits of growing hemp and have drafted some legislation that just might right the wrongs passed in 1970. The Industrial Hemp Farming Act of 2013, introduced in the House on February 6 by Rep. Thomas Massie (R-KY), would amend federal

PROTECT YOUR HOME & PROPERTY Kitchen Hood Systems Fire Suppression Systems Fire Pumps, Hoses, Nozzles Fire Sprinklers / Extinguishers Wildland Property Assessment Fire Protection Gels, Foams, Paints “Your Fire Protection Connection since 1978”

(805) 684-0805 •JOYEQUIPMENT.com 70

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE June 2013

drug law to legalize growing cannabis that contains less than 0.3% THC. Massie feels that this bill will aid struggling farmers and says, "Industrial hemp will give small farmers another opportunity to succeed." As farming subsidies begin to dry up, American farmers are desperately looking for a cash crop (they have been for years) and Massie thinks that hemp might fit the bill (pun intended). I applaud Massie’s vision and his desire to kick-start hemp farming in the good ol’ U.S. of A.— no matter his political intention. Let’s be clear folks: hemp is not weed. Hemp plants grown to produce oil or fiber are of the same species as cannabis grown for marijuana, but their genetics and the way they are cultivated are about as different as a whale is from a dolphin. Cannabis plants grown for marijuana are bred for high THC and are given space to branch out and produce buds. Cannabis plants grown for hemp have much lower THC levels and are densely packed (typically 35 to 50 plants per square foot). The hemp stalks are the most valuable part of the plant because they provide useable fibers and oils. Eight states are already ahead of the federal legislative waltz (Colorado, Maine, Montana, North Dakota, Oregon, Vermont, Washington, and West Virginia); they have enacted laws to legalize hemp farming and use a 0.3 percent THC standard to distinguish it from marijuana. Bravo progressive states, you give me hope. Unfortunately, Governor Jerry Brown continues to disappoint. California’s legislature voted to create a pilot hemp-farming project in several counties in 2011, but Governor Jerry Brown (kook) vetoed the bill, citing the federal ban. This is just further evidence of why we should never bring back a "has-been" politician. Canada on the other hand (damn I love Canadians) is way ahead of us. Canada distinguishes between the two varieties of the plant—it legalized hemp cultivation in 1998. Farmers must be licensed to obtain approved low-THC seeds. Then, plants are tested to ensure they contain less than 0.3 percent THC. Hemp is also legal in about 30 other countries with China and France (where it was never outlawed) as the leading producers; moreover, Eastern European countries like Romania and Hungary are trying to revive and modernize their hemp industries. Yet my favorite argument comes from Eric Steenstra, head of the VoteHemp lobby group, who claims, “You could outlaw heroin, but you don’t have to outlaw poppy seeds on your bagel or muffin.” True dat. Dudes, wake up and let our farmers grow this crop. Let’s drop our "control on drugs" mentality and move into a new era. Derek Dodds is founder of Wave Tribe and an eco freedom fighter who can be found traveling the California coast with his Mini Simmons. Contact him at derek@wavetribe.com.

T HE SHACK ~ SENOR FROG’S HHOAUPPRY! Tues.-F ri.

3-7pm

STRIPES New for Spring ‘13

mexican american BURGERS n

cuisine

Sandwiches BURRITOS

& Traditional Mexican & American Cuisine

Order Out! 805.684.9352 892 Linden Ave. • Downtown Carpinteria

HOMEGROWN SURF SHOP

ANACAPA SURF and SPORT

•Single Pontoon (Speed / Balance)

•Catamaran (Stability / Cruising / Yoga)

•Triamaran

www.burritosurf.com @burrito_surf

(Double rider / Fishing)

Friday Afternoon Kit

Tshirts Tanks Headwear Sweatshirts Beer Koozies & more...

• Fits in Most Cars • Easy to Pack & Store • Assembles & Dissembles Easily

“Get One & Go Glide!” 818-429-9966 • malibuglider.com

$2 OFF

ANY PIZZA! ANY SIZE! Spaghetti • Antipasta NOW SERVING Calzones • Salads Hot/Cold Sandwiches Pastas • Fresh Beer on Tap

2 CENTRAL COAST LOCATIONS Montecito: 1187 Coast Village Rd., 805-969-1277 Carpinteria: 5003 Carpinteria Ave., 805-684-8288

FREE CARPINTERIA DELIVERY www.DEEPZINE.com

MUSIC & ENTERTAINMENT Tom Curren at Soho in Santa Barbara.

“In Plain View” Released Tom Curren Morphs Into Master Songwriter STORY AND PHOTOS BY L. PAUL MANN

om Curren was the first professional surfer in history to win the world championship three times, a phenomenal feat bested only by surfing savant Kelly Slater. Surfing is probably one of the most difficult and artistic sports to judge and compete in. Every professional surfer develops his own unique style, and each wave is a natural creation: no two waves are alike. Curren created a new style with an artistic flare to propel him to his astounding victories. He was always looking for a fresh perspective on surfing. Recently, I had the opportunity to sit down with him and ask him a few questions about life and his album “In Plain View.” The first thing I asked him about was the first funny-looking board that he made himself. He would ride it relentlessly at his favorite surf break, Rincon. “I just wanted it to work so I kept riding it. But it was a terrible board.” Curren made his transition to music in 1993; he wanted to approach music in the same way he approached surfing. "I began playing drums when I was 7 and guitar when I was 14, but it wasn’t until the early ‘90s that I took music seriously.” His first foray into professional music was on a national tour with his band, "Skipping Urchins.” He

DRIFTWOOD

A SUP Worldview by Peter Trow and Jim Brewer

was the drummer alongside fellow band member and professional surfer Derek Hynd. “It was a tough time. I was going through a breakup and I wasn’t really surfing. I had two small children that I was separated from. Turning to music was very therapeutic,” said Curren. He began recording music at home on an old analog soundboard. “I could play drums, guitar and bass, so I just started fooling around. I had people who helped me learn how to tweak the sound on the board and I learned a lot from that.” Curren made his first professional recordings in Sydney, Australia at EMI studios in 1998.

Blueline owner Jim Brewer and legendary shaper Wayne Rich.

STORY AND PHOTOS BY GLENN DUBOCK

magine yourself free floating in a liquid Technicolor world; here, you interact with locals and wildlife in places that haven’t seen anyone ply their waters on a craft quite like yours. This is exactly what the creative Jim Brewer and Peter Trow so masterfully captured in high definition during their globetrotting adventure on standup paddleboards. "Driftwood," as Brewer clearly states, is not a movie about SUP—SUP just happens to be the watercraft of choice that allows Brewer and Trow to enter into some very far off places and become involved with some very far-out people. The silky voice of legendary surfer Shaun Tomson provides the minimalist narration that introduces and defines the concept of their watery wanderlust. The indigenous music that was sourced from the exotic places they visited is also present in the film. Sri Lanka, Iceland, Colombia, Nova Scotia and Montana are all explored through the unblinking eye of Trow’s camera that makes you slow down and fully appreciate the subtle colors and moods of the people and places they choose to film.

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE June 2013

In one of the most dramatic and poignant segments of the movie, Ammy Naff and Noah Yap paddle their boards alongside gigantic whales breaching in a calm bay in Northern Pacific Columbia— this is not a place you would normally go to without first checking a recent narco-terror list! But the whales do not care about silly, excited humans; these creatures continue to cruise through the oceans as they have done for eons. Young Yap attempts to standup paddle in a native canoe; again, this is something that has long been a part of the daily lives of Colombian fishermen for centuries. While his attempts are humorous and futile, the native kids take to his standup paddleboard like ducks to water! For me, the most amazing part of the film was shot in Iceland. Rerouted by the unexpected explosion of an inactive volcano, Brewer leads his tribe on a wild ride through the soot-filled blackness that has blanketed the snow-white landscape. They emerge from the darkness into a pristine right

He recorded two projects there. For his third recording, which was just released, he traveled to Los Angeles to scope out a fresh, new sound. “I worked with a great producer, John Alagia. He has produced major albums for bands like the Dave Matthews Band; he was great to work with.” The result was a much more mature and polished piece of work presented in his new project. The album has a classic retro sound rooted in 70s-style music, when music was simpler and lyrics were much more important. “Growing up I loved to listen to bands like The Beatles and Stevie Wonder, oh and of course, The Who. They were my favorite band.” While his music is rooted in the 1970s on "In Plain View,” there is also a connection to some of the most contemporary sounds in California music. There is a fresh depth to the music and lyrics: the mellow underpinnings of his album can be compared with the music of his friend Jack Johnson, to the songwriting skills of Jackie Greene, one of California’s most underrated treasures. While the music is decidedly in the California vein, there are signs of musical inspirations from Curren’s decades of world travel as a professional surfer. When asked if he draws on the influence of the local music scene in his international travels, Curren answered with a thoughtful but simple, “Yes.” There are moments on the new release where you can hear these influences, from a Hawaiian roots sound reminiscent of '70s pop masters Cecillo and Kapono, to at other times, maybe a nod towards a New Zealand sound born of Maori roots. “New Zealand is my favorite country to visit.” said Curren. Finally, I asked Curren if he had a favorite instrument in his collection. “I don’t really collect guitars like some musicians do, but there is one guitar my good friend Bill Tover found in a dumpster in back of the old Carrows restaurant in Carpinteria. It was all warped and torn up, but I have been slowly restoring it and it just has a different sound that I like.” Santa Barbara’s native has been striving to find his own unique voice in pop music, and he might have just hit the mark with his latest project, “In Plain View.”

J7SURFDESIGNS.COM - 24 EAST MASON STREET SANTA BARBARA, CA 93101

sunglasses galore. Oakley Spy VonZipper RayBan Dragon Electric TOMs Fox Hoven your one stop full service surf & skate shop Filtrate 1307C North H St. • Lompoc Hours: M-F 10-8p, Sat. 10-7p, Sun. 11-5p Zeal 805.736.1730 • surfconnection.net Locally owned for 20+ yrs.

point break with waves that reel off in a stark contrast to the frosty surroundings. Moreover, Trow shoots some incredible footage of Matt Becker and Joe Rowan carving ice sculpture lines in frigid waters on waves that look frozen in time. It all ends too soon, and you find yourself wanting to drift away with Brewer, Trow, and company again and again.

www.DEEPZINE.com

Kilian Garland landing one of his two clean frontside reverses in the Rincon Classic Pro Division finals. SEQUENCE: BRANDEN AROYAN

Final Frame is brought to you by Anacapa Brewing Co.

ANACAPA BREWING CO. Ventura’s ONLY Restaurant & Brewery

Come in and enjoy one of our Mouth Watering, Handcrafted Beers on Tap

Open Daily, 11:30 am • 472 E. Main Street • 805-643-2337 74

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE April 2013

www.anacapabrewing.com

A Rare Opportunity To Own 80 Feet of Oceanfront...

“Ventura’s Premier Surf Shop since 1961”

Team Rider Heston Jordan C-Street, winter 2012/2013 9’0” Quad Pro Comp

Servicing Santa Barbara, Goleta, The Ranch, Montecito and Carpinteria with Superior Local Knowledge and Professional Results Since 2001. 2001 A portion of Gabe’s profits are dedicated to protecting the Gaviota Coast, www.thetwenty.org, the Naples Coast, and to help preserve the precious open lands around Santa Barbara.

Santa Barbara’s Realtor

Gabe Venturelli 805-680-5141

GabeVRealtor@gmail.com Lic #01323000

Ventura Surf Shop 88 E. Thompson Blvd. Ventura, CA 93001 Open Mon. - Sat. 9-6 pm, Sunday 9-5 pm 805.643.1062 • www.venturasurfshop.com

ON TAP!

Blonde Ale Paradise Pale Ale Island Pale Ale Night Sail Starry Night Stout Jubilee Ale

NEW ON TAP! Tropical Lager!!! NEW in Bottle: Big Island Night Sail Blackbird Porter

May 11, 2013 2013,, Noon – 4 pm

OPEN DAILY: Thurs. – Sun. 11am – 9pm Mon. – Wed. 2pm – 9pm

River View Park in Buellton

Tickets Available! $35 March 1- April 30 ISLANDBREWINGCOMPANY.COM

IN DOWNTOWN CARPINTERIA • LINDEN AVE at RR Tracks • 745-8272

$45.00 May 1-May 11

www.BuelltonBrewFest.com (805) 688-7829 • info@Buellton.org

Boyd Petersen slotted in seclusion. PHOTO BY JOSH GILL

Final Frame 2 is brought to you by Endless Summer Bar & Grill

DEEP SURF MAGAZINE June 2013

Linden Field in Carpinteria, California

“Beer Festival by the Beach” Tickets & Info: www.deepfest.com / www.deepzine.com PRESENTED BY

ILLUSTRATION: EMILY BOELSEMS

Saturday, August 10th, 2013