Fall Home Improvement Is your chimney deteriorating? Page 2. Cut costs with a wood stove. Page 4. Create an area in your home for reading. Page 6. Birds need water in the winter, too. Page 13. And more!
The Herald â– YO U R C O M M U N I T Y N E W S PA P E R S I N C E 1 8 9 5 DUBOISCOUNTYHERALD.COM
DUBOIS COUNTY, INDIANA
FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 25, 2015 SECTION B
PAGE 2 ■ FALL HOME IMPROVEMENT
THE HERALD ■ FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 25, 2015
Keep water at bay to protect home By MICHAEL MAZUR Special Sections Writer JASPER — Step back from your house and a take a good look at your chimney. Do you see a darker discoloration of the bricks about 2 feet down from the top If you do, then your chimney is in a state of deterioration, according to Jason McCoy, master mason and lead educator and consultant for Bramwell-McKay Masonry, Restoration, Consulting and Education. That discoloration is mold from water saturation. And water can be an archenemy of masonry. McCoy said water can begin its destructive path as soon as the chimney is built or repaired, if the work isn’t done correctly. For the nearly 30 years the company has been in business, it has focused on the relationship between water and masonry. “I look around at homes and I can see chimneys that will fail on newer homes,” McCoy said. As a consultant and educator, he has lectured on causes of masonry failure across the country for the Architectural Institute of Architects and lectured on historic masonry restoration practices for Indiana Historical Landmarks. Prior to the industrial revolution in the 19th century, learning to be a master mason was a great craft to aspire to. Hundreds of years of knowledge, “subtle but critical nuances of masonry design were handed down from master masons to their apprentices,” McCoy said. “A master mason has an acute understanding of masonry construction and failure.” Many masons followed the
steel industry. As the revolution advanced, many subtleties of masonry such as adding drip edges and properly crowning a chimney were lost. It is paramount for a chimney to be properly crowned if it is going to last, according to McCoy. The crown tops off the chimney with the main purpose of protecting the base structure from weather related deterioration. “That is why 1,000-year-old chimneys are still intact in Europe, ” he said If your home was built in the last 80 years, the chimney most likely has a bell constructed at the top in place of a crown and probably has been repaired several times. That common practice is called topping out a chimney. McCoy says a properly crowned chimney uses concrete, not mortar, or Portland cement at least 4 inches thick or a solid stone slab with an 11⁄2-inch overhang off the top course of brick with a drip edge and expansion material between the flue tile and the crown. He said that lost method of crowning off a chimney is the single greatest cause of chimney deterioration over the last 100 years. Take a look at chimneys built 100 years ago and no evidence that it has been repaired or worked on can be seen. A chimney properly crowned off prevents water from entering the chimney cavity and when the inside of the chimney stays dry, the bricks do not crack during winter’s freeze-thaw cycle. Headaches can be avoided and considerable dollars can be saved if homeowners discover problem
A watertight chimney prevents structural damage from the elements. PHOTOS COURTESY OF BRAMWELLMCKAY MASONRY, RESTORATION, CONSULTING AND EDUCATION
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THE HERALD ■ FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 25, 2015
FALL HOME IMPROVEMENT ■ PAGE 3
Additional living space can be added to many homes by converting the crawl space into a room that can be used by the entire family.
Home
(Concluded from Page 2) areas and have them fixed sooner rather than later. This is especially true with the foundation. When a homeowner first sees signs of dampness around the foundation, that is the time they should get things checked out. If they wait too long, the infiltrating water will damage the foundation to the point where it needs to be replaced. Procrastination is costly. McCoy says they can quickly, inexpensively and permanently waterproof the foundation of a building or home. Waterproofing keeps the water out of your house. Most of their “millions of dollars” in foundation repair work has been done to homes built around the mid-20th century and later. Homeowners should look for vertical or stair-step cracks in the foundation wall, or bowing basement walls, cracks in the brick or stone work, hard-to-open windows and doors and musty smells in the basement. These are all signs of potential foundation problems and can happen to older and newer homes. It doesn’t matter whether your house sits on a crawl space, basement or a combination of both. Some preventative measures a homeowner can do is to position all the downspouts away from the foundation and have the land slope away from the house 1 inch per foot 8 feet out so at the 8-foot mark the slope should be 8 inches. And at “any cost” the gutters need to be kept clean. With proper preventative measures one can prevent future costly problems with front porches, foundations and leaking basements.
Of all the masonry services that Bramwell-McKay provides, converting crawl spaces into livable spaces in homes is one of the more unique services with only two other companies in the country (Chicago and Denver) that do this, according to McCoy. Bramwell-McKay has been doing this for 25 years — the others 13 and nine years, respectively. “Not many want to do this,” he said. “It is quite an undertaking.” The company is working on a residence in Indianapolis where the homeowner can’t expand his home up or out but can expand downward. To his surprise, many homeowners during the economic downturn wanted to increase the appraised value of their property by converting their crawl spaces into usable space to the tune, on average, of $30,000 to $70,000 per project. By converting that space and adding outside walk-ins and egress windows to the basement, the homeowner can claim another bedroom to the home, increasing its value. Homeowners also choose
to do this for more emotional reasons like loving their home and where they live. Not wanting to move but needing more room, they decide to add that needed space by converting the basement into a bedroom. An average home (about 1,000 square feet) takes about 30 days to complete and the family can still live in the home during the conversion. A hole is knocked through the foundation (steel beams are used for cribbing to support the house) to get the excavating vehicles through and to haul out the soil and bring in new construction material. Usually a skid steer, conveyor and walk-behind skid steer are used. Homeowners not only want to expand the space inside their home, they also want to expand the living space outdoors. McCoy has seen a surge in homeowners wanting outdoor kitchens that range from the basic to the elaborate. The basic ranges in cost from $1,500 which can include a fire pit, a masonry structure and cooking prep and work surface to house a
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grill or smoker. The more elaborate kitchens include several and more intricate masonry structures to house the best stainless steel appliances, including large outdoor pizza or baking ovens. “The sky is the limit,” he said. No matter what your masonry problem or concern is, whether you want to add more space, keep
your foundation from sinking, keeping your basement dry and keep your chimney from falling, you should first make an assessment of the condition of your property, get expert advice and decide what action to take. McCoy said he will give an initial consultation at no charge.
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PAGE 4 ■ FALL HOME IMPROVEMENT
THE HERALD ■ FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 25, 2015
Wood stoves offer efficiency, cost savings By MARK J. DONOVAN Creators.com The cost of heating your home with oil, propane or electricity continues to rise every year. One way to combat the ever-increasing home heating energy bills is to install a wood stove in your home. Today’s new wood stoves can produce an incredible amount of heat with a relatively small footprint, are highly efficient and are aesthetically attractive. Also, unlike fossil fuels, wood is a renewable resource. Moreover, newer EPAcertified models are much more environmentally friendly because of their high level of burning efficiency. Thus, they burn wood better than ever, resulting in less soot and smoke going up the chimney. If you are considering purchasing a wood stove, below is a list of a few key things to keep in mind. A wood stove is a great backup heating source for those times when the electricity goes out and/ or you run out of home heating oil or propane. We frequently lose electricity in New Hampshire for up to several days at a time during the winter months, and even if a home burns oil or propane, electricity is still required for powering the water circulation pumps or heat exchanger fans. A cord of seasoned hardwood — a cord measures 8 feet in length, 4 feet in width and 4 feet in height (128 cubic feet) — produces approximately the same amount of heat as 130 gallons of fuel oil. A cord of seasoned hardwood cut for immediate use varies with supply and location. However, you can expect to pay somewhere between $200 and $350 per cord in New Hampshire at the time of this writing. Oil, on the other hand, costs about $3.50 per gallon. So $3.50 per gallon times 130 gallons equals $455. Consequently,
even at $350 a cord, you can save 30 percent on home heating costs compared with oil. In addition, if you order the wood green and in long lengths and are willing to cut and season the wood yourself, you can realize even greater cost savings. Wood stoves come in all different sizes, types and shapes. Wood stove types vary from traditional potbelly wood stoves to ultra-modern chic stoves. They are available as freestanding types, fireplace insert types, corner types or wholehouse wood-burning systems. So if you have an old wood-burning fireplace that you rarely use, consider installing a wood stove insert type. Also, wood stoves can be purchased so that wood is fed into them from either the side or the front. In addition, you can purchase wood stoves with or without glass firebox views. When considering where to place a wood stove, it’s all about location. Ideally, put it on a lower-level floor, either in the basement or on the first finished floor. This way, the heat produced by the wood stove can rise and heat multiple levels in the home, thus reducing home energy costs. When purchasing a wood stove, look for models that have been certified by the Environmental Protection Agency. These types of wood stoves produce much less smoke per hour than old or nonEPA-certified wood stoves. For example, an old wood stove typically produces 15 to 30 grams of smoke per hour, whereas an EPA-certified wood stove only produces 2 to 7 grams per hour. Also, consider purchasing a wood stove with add-on features, such as those that allow you to hook the wood stove up to water heaters or radiators. Wood stoves can also be purchased with selfloading hoppers, automatic igni-
Installing a wood stove is a great way to save on home energy costs. MARK J. DONOVAN CREATORS.COM
tion systems, programmable timer settings and remote controls, albeit these features are typically only found in whole-house woodburning heating systems. Though the wood stoves of to-
day are built with safety in mind, make sure to locate your wood stove in a safe area of the home with fireproof material on the floor and surrounding walls. Note that there are specific fire
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THE HERALD ■ FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 25, 2015
FALL HOME IMPROVEMENT ■ PAGE 5
Potatoes trendy addition to home gardens
Midseason varieties These mature in 100 days or so, and include Yukon Gold and Red La Soda, which is often the top-producing potato in warm climates. Late varieties These need 110 days or more of growing time, but “they typically
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and fries as well. Potatoes add a world of beauty to your dishes, especially when you want to impress your guests, such as at a family holiday dinner when regular white potatoes aren’t impressive enough. Talk to the vegetable expert at your local nursery to find out which potato plants grow best in your region, and also — importantly — which varieties are most resistant to blight and other plant diseases that can limit or ruin your potato crop. For instance, according to the Old Farmer’s Almanac, the potato plant Chieftan is resistant to potato scab, and Elba, Rosa and Sebago are all somewhat resistant to blight. Your garden center professional will be able to fine-tune your potato choices for your climate and your garden soil’s pH level influence. Your garden expert can also help you time your plantings so that they’re ready for harvest when you’d like to use them, such as Thanksgiving. Many potato varieties mature in 45 to 90 days, so a smart garden calendar or app will further help you plan your potato plantings and harvesting.
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produce a heavy set of tubers that keep well in storage,” according to Barbara Pleasant at Mother Earth News. Consider the Butte variety, all-purpose, brown-skinned potatoes performing well in the Midwest, and Kennebec performing well in the Northeast.
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Early varieties These mature in less than 90 days and are good fits for any garden. Creamy, round Irish Cobblers, purple-skinned caribes and prolific “Red Norland” potatoes fall into this group.
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Homegrown potatoes help fall recipes taste better.
Elongated fingerling potatoes These vary in their maturation times and come in a range of colors and sizes. The top-reviewed potato plants at Burpee include Yukon Gold, Red Pontiac, Kennebec, Swedish Peanut Fingerling and Beauregard sweet potato. The nutritional value of potatoes is astounding. They’re very high in potassium, for instance. One small potato contains more potassium than a large banana. That’s part of their appeal for the home gardener, making it budgetfriendly and easy to eat well and organically without having to shop in pricey grocery stores or farmers’ markets. The other reason for the popularity of potatoes as garden crops is the great variety of color in the most popular types. “All Blue” potatoes are winning fans with their purple skin and deep blue flesh, and some potato varieties feature striated purples, blues, reds or oranges inside. These potatoes, sliced, roasted or grilled, add visual appeal to home cooking, and make for unique home-cooked potato chips
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“Fall is bulb planting time, and it also can be potato planting time,” says Robert Smith, master gardener. More and more, home gardeners are adding potatoes to their gardens so they can consume them for nutrients and enjoy the excellent taste of freshgrown potatoes. The experts at Old Farmer’s Almanac agree: “The taste and texture of homegrown potatoes are far superior to store bought, especially the early varieties.” Fresh-grown potatoes have a creamy, nut-like taste, adding gourmet flavor to your potato dishes this fall and winter. Potatoes are also a winning choice for a low-effort home garden. They’re planted quite easily, don’t need a lot of soil depth to thrive and are easily harvested. “They need a cool climate, and also need to be watched to prevent sunburn. Potatoes can be grown as a winter crop in warmer climate zones,” reports Farmer’s Almanac. To create a colorful fall potato salad or even grilled potatoes, plant a variety of potato types, to get those smooth, creamy white potatoes, rich red potatoes, golden orange sweet potatoes and the visual pop of blue potatoes.
Helping you design your combination of garden potatoes, the Potato Association of America lists the five main varieties of potatoes: ■■ White rounds, such as Kennebec, Ontario and Yukon Gold. ■■ Red rounds, such as Lady Rosetta, Soraya and Cara. ■■ Russets, such as Goldrush and Russet Nugget. ■■ Yellows, such as Inca Gold. ■■ Blues, such as Adirondack Blue. The experts at Burpee expand upon potato categories, paying mind to the factor of how long it takes for potatoes to mature, important during fall and winter climates:
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PAGE 6 ■ FALL HOME IMPROVEMENT
THE HERALD ■ FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 25, 2015
Create nook library
Beautify yard with sensible groundcover By CHELLE CORDERO Creators.com
By CHRISTINE BRUN Creators.com Reading in a cozy chair is still desirable for a lot of people. Though you may be sitting with your Kindle instead of a bound text, the expression “curled up with a book” sounds so much more appealing than proclaiming that you are getting comfortable with your iPad. Right? Let’s create areas in your home that are conducive to reading. I’m one of those people who must have total quiet in order to read and write. I read much better when I’m on holiday than when I’m involved with my normal routine. It has to do with clearing my mind and feeling relaxed. My husband reads best when on vacation, as well, and he spent one entire cruise in the lounge engrossed in his book. Therefore, it seems appropriate to evaluate what the members of your household need to encourage reading or even working at home. In this sound bite-oriented culture, where flashes on our smartphones pass as communication, I feel passionately that reading substantive news is vital to an educated society. Where we get our information — from reliable sources rather than those evoking creative license — is nearly as important as the facts themselves. Plus, the classics of literature and poetry still have value and importance. You must read in order to learn about culture, history and current events. Well-known authors often say that if you wish to write, you must first read. A lot! Your home may have nothing more than a stair landing or maybe a screened-in front porch to capture as a mini library setting. That will work just fine. Go out and find the most comfortable chair that will fit the space. Don’t be afraid of seeking out a gently used lounge chair or a worn leather armchair. The movement of a rocker or a glider can be relaxing and help dispel energy in the same way that rocking calms an infant. Next, provide a good reading lamp; one that is adjustable is best because each body type will require the light to fall in a different location. Generally, overhead lighting is not an effective task light. Include a tiny table to hold a glass of wine or a cup of tea. Being comfortable requires that there is a place for everything; remember a spot to rest your eyeglasses or a box of tissues. If your chair is not a
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A stair landing and a worn leather armchair can work together to create a mini library setting. recliner or rocker, you might wish to consider an ottoman. A leathercovered ottoman can serve as both footrest and side table. The use of a laptop, e-reader or tablet means that a convenient electrical outlet is necessary. Remember the power of a power strip. An extra-wide upstairs hallway can be your mini library. Sometimes there is room in an attic and the addition of a stairway makes it accessible. My home office used to
Whether you have a full lawn or a simple patch of dirt along a walkway, a good groundcover can go a long way. Groundcover can fix a multitude of problems, help prevent soil erosion, cover the brown spots on a hillside, aid with drainage and it just looks good. From short, ground-hugging species to plants that grow up to 2 feet tall, homeowners can find groundcovers for just about any need. Creeping perennials are low foliage, which makes them great for bordering walkways, nestling between steppingstones or incorporating throughout natural pathways. Some versatile creepers include mat-forming New Zealand brass buttons and Scotch or Irish moss. Blue star creeper and creeping Jenny are good groundhuggers that are durable and stand up against heavy foot traffic. Many ground-hugging perennial herbs, such as chamomile, Corsican mint, and various thymes, are tough under foot traffic and spread delightful scents. A clover-grass mix is lush, long-lasting, does well in almost any soil, stays green even
be reached by a pull-down ladder, which was replaced with a proper staircase. Now I have a large room with venting dormer windows. It was worth reconfiguring the rooms below to hold the stairway. A walk-in closet in a guest bedroom could also be transformed into a nook. Sometimes older homes have a butler’s pantry that might continue to offer cabinet storage while also serving as a quiet reading place.
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during droughts and is low maintenance and fairly inexpensive. Flowering groundcover that grows from 6 inches to 2 feet is ideal for filling in small areas, edging walkways and adding color to the landscape. The best choices are repeat and long-blooming plants that will reach out and fill in as they grow and are pest and insect repellent. These clumpers can be used to fill in areas between bushes, trees, rocks or small garden areas that often frame doorways. The denser the area the more you need low-maintenance plants. Recommended flowers include “Bath’s Pink,” “Walker’s Low” and ornamental oregano; the fragrant foliage is nature’s own air freshener. Using a pencil and graph paper, start with a simple sketch of your yard, and pre-plan the areas where you want to add groundcover. When choosing plants check the zone they do best in (usually listed on a tag with the plant); you can learn what zone you’re in by looking it up on the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map. Note also whether the area is shady or sunny, how
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Beautify (Concluded from Page 6) much traffic the area normally gets and what the drainage situation is. Using a simple soil test kit, available in most hardware and gardening stores, check the pH level and acidity of your soil, and add necessary nutrients to make the land more hospitable to plants. Early spring or early summer is the best time to place new groundcover plants into the ground so that they have a chance to root themselves before the winter season. Till the soil and remove plants, roots and weeds from all areas you plan to replace with ground cover; continue tilling to loosen the soil and mix in peat moss; add low nitrogen fertilizer; prepare 3-foot-wide planting strips and edge with bark mulch. Using a trowel, open holes about 10 inches apart in staggered lines for plantings. Water fresh plants two to three times a week while they es-
Plant garlic in fall By JULIA PRICE Creators.com Have you ever tried to kiss someone after they’ve eaten spaghetti sauce that was loaded up with garlic? P.U.! You can nearly smell them from a mile away let alone when they’re right in front of you! But though that scent can be quite a powerful smell to inhale, the rewards of eating garlic definitely outweigh the stinky negatives. Garlic falls into the same category as onions, leeks and shallots, but unlike its family members, it’s known for its medicinal qualities in addition to its flavor. Garlic contains many essential nutrients and antioxidants, helps to improve cholesterol and may reduce toxicity levels in the body, according to nutritionists. It’s also relatively easy to plant and maintain garlic, so consider growing your own this year. The ideal time to plant garlic is in the fall. (You can plant in spring, but experts say that your bulbs will grow larger and potentially more flavorful if you start the process in the fall.) ■■ Here’s what you need to get started: ■■ A sunny spot of soil, reaching 12 inches deep. ■■ Manure. ■■ Cloves of garlic (from a plant or garden shop; don’t just plant the cloves from a bulb of garlic that you can purchase at a grocery). There are several types of garlic cloves to decide from. You can check out the Mother Earth News website to find out which is best for you. ■■ Your thumb. You’ll want to prepare the soil by loosening it and applying a thin layer (1 inch) of manure on top of the soil. Plant each clove about a hand’s length away from each other with the pointy ends up and the fat ends down. From there, you’ll stick your thumb straight into the ground and plant the clove about 2 to 4 inches deep, packing the soil tightly around the top. Harvest times may vary, but the yellowing of the tops is a good indicator. When you see this, use a digging fork to gently pull up the plants and then store them in a cool place for one to two weeks.
FALL HOME IMPROVEMENT ■ PAGE 7
tablish firm roots, and pull out any weeds that sprout. The foliage will soon grow in and fill the area. A few things to remember as you design your landscaping. Be careful about planting foliage too close to your home’s foundation. As the plants mature and spread they may feel choked if they are
too close to the building; as the roots take hold it’s better to leave some space between them and the foundation and reduce the potential damage to either. Be careful not to choose groundcovers that grow and spread too rapidly, such as ivy. Visualize what the mature plants will look like and mix-and-
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match and arrange the plants accordingly, keeping in mind the eventual heights, colors and even the size of blooms so that none of the plants are hidden from view. Even though most groundcovers are relatively low maintenance, make sure to leave access points for you to weed and trim the yard.
Keep the four seasons in mind when deciding to plant; for instance, plants lining a driveway may be in serious peril during wintertime plowing, and low foliage growing between steppingstones on a major walkway may impede maintenance of the walk when there are ice and snow.
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PAGE 8 ■ FALL HOME IMPROVEMENT
THE HERALD ■ FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 25, 2015
Unchecked roof ice dams can wreak havoc By MARK J. DONOVAN Creators.com
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water damage doesn’t stop in the attic. Often the water finds its way further down into the home and sometimes between wall paint and drywall, causing large water bubbles to form that eventually burst. Also, when the temperatures drops, the water underneath the shingles freezes up, causing the shingles to buckle and become potentially permanently damaged. The best long-term solution for preventing ice dams is to ensure that your attic is well-insulated so that no warm air from the lower living areas of the home makes it up into it. Secondly, it is critical that the attic have sufficient and unblocked ventilation. Ventilation should include soffit vents near the roof eaves, as well as a ridge vent or gable vents near the top of the roof. The ventilation ensures that any warm air that does enter the attic is quickly dissipated before it can cause any roof snowmelt. If you do see ice dams forming on your home’s roof edges, then
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Ice dams can form along roof edges when snow melts on the roof.
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If you own a home in an area of the country where you get cold and snowy winters, then you’ve probably already experienced ice dams. If, on the other hand, you are a first-time homeowner or a new transplant who has just purchased a home in a region of the country with harsh winters, then you may be unfamiliar with ice dams. If you fall into one of these two latter types of homeowner categories, then it’s important that you become familiar with ice dams and know how to resolve them quickly. Ice dams form along roof edges when snow melts on the roof. They can cause major damage to the home, including water damage and structural damage. They can also cause mold and mildew growth. Ice dams are caused by warm, moist air from the main living area of the home rising into the attic and getting trapped inside it. The warm, moist air heats up the underside of the roof sheathing, which in turn causes the snow to melt on the roof. As the snow melts, the water drips down toward the roof edges where it then refreezes. Over just a couple of days, the refreezing snowmelt forms ice ridges known as ice dams. The ice dams prevent additional snowmelt from dripping off the roof, which causes them to become bigger. And that’s just the beginning of the problems. As the water backs up underneath the roof shingles, it inevitably works its way into cracks in the roof sheathing, where it then begins to drip into the attic. From there, drywall ceilings become soaked and damaged, and mold and mildew growth begin to form in the attic. However, the
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one quick solution for preventing water issues is to place ice melt socks on the roof edges. Ice melt socks are simple to make. Simply pour a couple of pounds of ice melt into lengths of nylon stockings. Then tie off the stockings.
Next, place an ice melt sock every 4 to 6 feet along the roof edge, on top of the ice dam ridges, making sure to place them perpendicular to the roof’s edge. In just a few hours, they will begin to melt channels into the ice dam ridges
so that additional roof snowmelt can drain off the roof. When the warm weather returns, resolve your attic’s insulation and ventilation shortcomings to prevent ice dams from forming in the future.
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THE HERALD ■ FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 25, 2015
FALL HOME IMPROVEMENT ■ PAGE 9
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THE HERALD ■ FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 25, 2015
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FALL HOME IMPROVEMENT ■ PAGE 11
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THE HERALD ■ FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 25, 2015
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THE HERALD ■ FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 25, 2015
FALL HOME IMPROVEMENT ■ PAGE 13
Prep birdbaths for fall, winter
INTERESTING. THE HERALD.
By CATHERINE MCNULTY Creators.com Are you an avian aficionado? Do you lovingly help your fine feathered friends by offering up a birdbath in your yard? That’s wonderful! But what happens when the days get short and the temperatures drop? A lot of people store their birdbaths during the fall and winter. But you may not have to — and the birds certainly would appreciate year-round access to the bath. Like all animals, birds need daily access to water. When temperatures drop below freezing, it can be hard for them to find drinking water. A birdbath can be an excellent source of water during the winter. But not all birdbaths are created equal. How do you know whether your birdbath can withstand the winter? If the birdbath in question is delicate — ceramic or mosaic — then probably not. Stone, concrete, glass and solar birdbaths are also susceptible to being damaged by winter weather. The freezing and thawing throughout the season can cause the materials to expand and crack. For extreme cold weather, you should clean, dry and store these types of birdbaths. If the bath in question is too heavy to move out of the elements, make sure you seal the basin so that snow cannot accumulate and melt in it. Many people have boards cut to the exact dimension of the basin and then cover everything securely with a tarp or plastic sheeting. So what type of birdbath is best for year-round use? Plastic and resin birdbaths work best. Both of these materials are able to withstand harsh winter weather without damage. And while both plastic and resin may conjure up images of things that are ugly and disposable, there are many different types of birdbaths available in these materials. Any home and garden store should have a good selection. You’ll want to start off the season by thoroughly cleaning your birdbath. Algae and other undesirable things can bloom in warm weather. Generally, birds bathe less in the wintertime — water can freeze to feathers, causing problems — but the birds will appreciate access to drinking water. This means you won’t have to clean the bath as much during the
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When temperatures drop below freezing, it can be hard for birds to find drinking water. winter, so it is best to start off with a clean bath. Next, if the bath is light-colored, place dark plastic sheeting or a dark plastic plate at the bottom of the basin. This will help absorb sunshine and keep the water from freezing so the birds will have access to it. If you are using plastic sheeting (industrial garbage bags work well for this), then make sure you weigh it down with rocks or something similar to keep it from blowing away. You should also secure the ends of the sheeting with tape or rope. You may even want to add a few branches across the birdbath to give the birds additional perches for drinking. If you live in a place where the weather stays below freezing for most of the winter, there are heated birdbaths and de-icers you can purchase. Just be aware that you will need to supply power to it throughout the season. This doesn’t mean the water will be hot — just kept above freezing. The best — and more expensive — of these have a sensor that will only come on when temperatures are below freezing. So what if you go to all this trouble and then never see any birds taking advantage? Birds can be very particular about where they bathe. You may think a birdbath looks cute nestled in a bush, but for a bird, that’s dangerous. Many things can hide and lie in wait for them there. Keeping the bath out in the open is best, as it gives them the ability to watch for predators.
Making Home Improvements a little easier!
You should never add chemicals to a birdbath — not even the ones that can keep the water from freezing. This can be harmful, or even deadly, for the birds. If you notice a thin layer of ice forming on the top, break it up. And make sure you are keeping the bath reasonably full. Birds like fresh water. You may not need to clean it as often, but you still need to make sure it’s clean. You can always turn your winter yard into a full-service bird buffet by putting up a bird feeder. This will attract more birds and more variety of birds. Come for the feed; stay for the bath!
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PAGE 14 ■ FALL HOME IMPROVEMENT
THE HERALD ■ FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 25, 2015
Paint freshens home’s entrance, hallways By JOSEPH PUBILLONES Creators.com We all know first impressions matter. Well, my friends, the same holds true for our homes. Walking into an entrance hall should be a warm and inviting experience, a preamble to the rest of the home’s décor. However, entrance halls are frequently seen as merely functional spaces and are forgotten or relegated to lackluster design. In theory, designing the interior should be rather simple because rarely is this space ample enough to contain a lot of furnishings. Most entry halls are small — not much larger than the hallways they lead to. If space allows, an entry hall should contain seating — such as a chair or a stool — a mirror and a console or table to hold letters, keys and cellphones. Ideally, the walls of an entrance hall are painted in one color to create unity. The color should be chosen based on either the predominant color of the house or an accent color within the decorating scheme. For example, the color could be inspired by an accent color found on drapes in an adjoining room or chosen to reinforce the color of the sofa and chairs. This weaving of colors from one room to another creates a visual link and ensures a nice flow from one room to another. An entry hall endures a lot of wear and tear as people enter and exit a home. So avoid selecting light or pale colors for the walls. Wallpaper is an advisable finish for this area, as long as the paper is thick; paper with a vinyl base is appropriate, too. Selecting wallpaper with a small or overall print will help conceal any scuffs that occur in daily use. Flooring material for an entry hall should be durable and easy to clean. Depending on where your home is located, keep in mind that outside elements will make their way inside: snow, mud, sand, dust. Most entry halls require an area rug to help soften the impact of foot traffic on the flooring. Here, too, select an area rug with an overall pattern and a multicolor background to avoid footprints and inevitable marks.
of the style and décor of the rest of the home. Some entry halls are wide enough to accommodate a round table as a centerpiece. This always looks better when topped by a floral arrangement, a piece of sculpture or stacks and stacks of books. Entry halls that are tighter on space should at the very least feature a console
topped by a mirror or significant work of art. Ultimately, entry halls and hallways are the perfect places to express your personality. Because they are small spaces, you can decorate them over and over again without breaking the bank. And the regular makeovers will keep your home looking fresh.
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A hallway’s colors can be based on accent colors within the decorating scheme. Depending on ceiling height, your room may be able to carry a chandelier or lantern or a closeto-the-ceiling light fixture. However you do it, this room should be well lit. The final touches are the deco-
rations and furnishings selected for this space. Tablescapes are important and should provide hints
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THE HERALD ■ FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 25, 2015
FALL HOME IMPROVEMENT ■ PAGE 15
Add solar elements to your garden in autumn By SHARON NAYLOR Creators.com Add a little life to your garden with solar accents to get the sun to do all the work for you, harnessing natural energy to add light, sound and motion to your garden and landscaping. As the sun sets and when nighttime falls, your garden will begin with a glow and shine in the nighttime, showing off your beautiful garden design instead of it disappearing from view. Add in the pleasant sounds of a bubbling fountain or even a luxury water wall cascading behind it, and you have the calming sounds of a Zen garden to accompany your relaxing evening sipping cocktails on your outdoor terrace. Accessorizing gardens with solar-powered effects has become a new trend in garden design, with an array of solar elements available at low prices. When those solar lights illuminate, your garden appears transformed from its lush, natural daytime appearance into a magical garden lit by lanterns, post lights and glowing garden orbs. As fall begins, it starts to get darker earlier at night. If you’ve become accustomed to spending lots of time in your backyard’s entertaining areas during the summer, earlier nightfall means your garden’s light show begins earlier, lifting your spirits and providing a pretty view while your outdoor party continues. “Appearance aside, our motion-sensor solar lights deter the deer that show up at sundown wanting to feed on our plantings,” says home gardener Charles Dennis. “So these solar lights have protected our harvest and also protect the trees around our garden.” When you begin looking for solar lights and details for your garden, you’ll likely be impressed by the variety of solar items on the market. The three most popular categories include solar lights, solar-powered water features and solar-powered whimsical effects. Solar-powered lights In addition to solar-powered motion sensor lights that keep the deer away from your pricy plantings, consider these lighting effects for design: ■■ Post cap lights on the corners of your garden fencing provide a glow defining the outline of
a sense of calm to your pretty, fragrant garden, bringing a soulsoothing Zen garden effect to even the smallest of garden plots. For larger or multi-tiered gardens, consider a grander cascading fountain where water flows over rocks, or a vertical water wall that adds a dramatic backdrop to your garden. A solar-powered birdbath at-
tracts colorful songbirds to your garden during the day and keeps birdbath water circulating to help cut down on mosquito problems on your property. Standing water is a haven for mosquito breeding, mold and other risks, and so a solar-powered birdbath is an easy solution that also provides excellent bird-watching in your garden space.
ORCHARDSPY/CREATORS.COM
Solar-powered light effects add glowing décor to your garden. your garden. ■■ Solar string lights can outline your garden fence and define vertical garden poles holding up your protective netting. Pair these with solar string lights hung in the trees around your garden to extend the delicate fairy light effect. String lights are available in clear, white lights, colored bulbs, and creatively shaped string light bulbs such as illuminated butterflies, ladybugs or stars (as just a few of the many options). ■■ Solar lanterns. These outdoor-approved solar lights provide tremendous creativity to your garden design, because you can easily pick up and move your lights into different arrangements. For instance, you might place one lan-
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tern at each corner of your square or rectangular garden, or you might cluster lanterns of various heights in one corner of your garden or on a stone garden bench. ■■ Path lights stand just a foot tall or so, outlining the paths you’ve designed in your garden or -- again -- outlining your garden’s perimeter. ■■ Solar rock lights add faux boulders to your garden design, with a solar strip on top of the stone that catches the sun’s rays throughout the day and then shines a light from behind the boulder for resort landscaping effect. Solar-powered water features The flow of water and the bubbling sounds of a fountain add
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THE HERALD ■ FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 25, 2015
Maintaining gutters, downspouts important task is still clear of dust and debris, and check for any cracks, holes or other damage from trees, weather or animals. So before investing in gutter guards, decide how much maintenance you’re willing to do yourself. Will you clean the gutters twice a year? Will you inspect the gutters and guards for dam-
By DIANNE CROWN Creators.com It seems simple to have properly installed, well-maintained gutters and downspouts that move rainwater away from the foundation, help keep water out of the basement, discourage insect populations that breed in standing water and protect landscaping. However, successful gutter installation depends on getting a lot of things right: secure attachment to the roof system, proper sloping, sufficient width and depth for your roof size and style, downspouts/ extensions to prevent ponds in the spring and ice rinks in the winter, and construction material (usually vinyl, aluminum, or steel, occasionally copper) that makes the purchase worth your investment. And then there’s the maintenance. Even the best gutters require regular inspections for deterioration and upkeep to remain free of debris. “The key thing most people don’t think of when they go to the store and just pick something off the shelf is what kind of debris they’re trying to keep out of their gutters,” says Jamie Gilbert, owner of Statewide Gutter Co. Statewide installs, cleans, repairs and has seen or heard of just about all gutter guard options. They recommend one of three gutter guard styles for most homeowners. “We use a gutter guard that fits 5- and 6-inch Kstyle gutters, which are the most popular residential gutters in the country,” says Gilbert. It comes in three styles. “The first style keeps leaves out,” Gilbert says. “The second keeps maple seeds and finer debris out, and the third has an even finer mesh to prevent pine needles from getting into the gutter.” In neighborhoods with a variety of trees, Gilbert uses the finest mesh. All are attached securely with a combination of clips, screws, a patented Z-bend along the back edge for rigidity, and have fitted ends to prevent birds from nesting in the gutter. Any silky or cot-
age and make the needed repairs, patches and replacements? Is your house just one story tall? If the answer to any of those questions is “no,” consider whether it would be easier to save your money and hire a full-service professional in your area to clean, repair and maintain your gutters, guard-free.
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If this looks like your house, it’s time to clean your gutters. tony debris that does stick to the guard, says Gilbert, usually dries and blows off. And, he says, even the finest mesh style still allows enough water into the gutter to effectively direct water away from the foundation. With or without guards or covers, says Gilbert, gutters still require maintenance. You still have
to inspect the gutters a couple of times a year, especially at the bottom of roof valleys and gutter corners, to ensure the gutter
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THE HERALD ■ FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 25, 2015
FALL HOME IMPROVEMENT ■ PAGE 17
Fertilize lawn by cool-season, warm-season types By SHARON NAYLOR Creators.com You know you want a gorgeous, green, perfect lawn, whether you’re starting your new lawn from seed or seeking to spruce up your existing plot. You know to choose a grass type befitting your lawn’s sun exposure, soil conditions and climate, but did you know that the single most important factor in creating and nourishing your lawn is whether you have cool-season or warm-season grass? Many homeowners are not aware that there is a difference, so they will often make the mistake of fertilizing their lawns with the wrong kind of fertilizer for their grass types. To help make your lawn fertilizer more effective (and consequently, your lawn greener and healthier), here are some guidelines for cool-season and warmseason grass feeding: Cool-season grass “Cool-season grasses are grass types that thrive in areas with (freezing cold) winters and hot summers,” say the experts at Scotts Lawn Service. “This area is roughly defined as New England, the Upper Midwest, the High Plains, and Northern California up to the Pacific Northwest. These grasses grow best when temperatures are between 65 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit, which is why they do most of their growing in the spring and fall.” “Cool-season grass thrives in the moderate spring and fall temperatures,” says Kelly Burke, lawn care and lawn alternatives expert for About.com. “Cool season grasses don’t like the heat and can go dormant (turn brown) during extended hot, dry conditions.” Cool-season grasses include: ■■ Kentucky bluegrass. This dark green grass is popular for its ability to grow in shady
conditions. ■■ Perennial ryegrass. “Found primarily in the northern and transition zones between north and south, it does need full sun to thrive,” says Burke. Perennial ryegrass is often blended with bluegrass and fescues for a more uniform look and feel. ■■ Fine fescue. “An excellent performer in shade and cold, this is often added to fill in where other cool season species fail,” says Burke. This type exists in three varieties: creeping red fescue, hard fescue and chewings fescue. Fine fescue a good choice for hightraffic areas and can handle most soil conditions and climates. ■■ Tall fescue. A coarse-textured, dense grass that grows in clumps and loves the shade. This type of grass is popular for hightraffic lawns. Fertilizing cool-season grass “Excessive spring fertilization can reduce carbohydrate reserves and root development by stimulating rapid shoot growth,” say the experts at Scotts. A lawn’s shoot growth uses more carbohydrate absorption than the roots, stealing nutrients from the roots. Late fall fertilization takes advantage of the slowdown of shoot growth to feed your lawn well. “Fall nitrogen applications greatly enhance the production of carbohydrates,” which are stored for use the following growing season and enhance early spring green-up. “Fall is the favorite time of year for cool season grasses, so care for these types is most important at this time of year. Fertilize when the intense heat of the summer has subsided, but well before the onset of severe cold weather. You may choose to apply a special winterizer fertilizer for the fall application. These fertilizers are specially formulated to help protect the grass during the winter months, say the experts at Scotts.
Warm-season grass Warm-season grasses are used in southern lawns and some transition-zone lawns, where they produce well in the summer and can thrive in soil that is less than ideal. “The greatest benefit to warm-season grasses is their ability to thrive in the intense heat of a southern summer,” says Burke. Warm-season grasses include: ■■ Bahia. Extremely heat and drought resistant, it grows best in Florida, along the entire Gulf and on southern Atlantic coastlines. It’s a coarse grass that grows in bunches; Bahia is a good choice for high-traffic lawns and it doesn’t need much watering. ■■ Bermuda. Common throughout the south, it thrives in heat, requires full sun and is drought resistant. Bermuda grass remains green from late spring until frost when it turns brown and goes dormant. ■■ Zoysia. This grass type is known for its fine, lush vegetation, growing best in full sun. It should be watered if drought lasts longer than one week. ■■ Centipede. Extremely slow growing and drought tolerant, this grass grows well in acidic soil, and it thrives in full sun but will manage with partial shade. Centipede grass generally performs well without the need for fertilizers; take care not to over-fertilize. ■■ St. Augustine. Commonly found in the Gulf Coast states and Southern California, it grows fast, providing a blue green color that lasts into the fall. “Consider fertilizing with extra iron since sandy soils are often deficient, says Burke.
Fertilizing warm-season grass Fertilize warm-season grass when it starts to turn green in spring. Use either slow- or quickrelease fertilizer, but time your fertilization regimen so the fertilizer will be used up before the onset of severe hot summer weather. Then begin fertilizing again after the intense heat of the summer has subsided. “Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions when fertilizing, and ensure that you time the life of the fertilizer so it is not present at the onset of severe hot or cold temperatures,” reports Scotts. Failing to time your fertilizer application well could dam-
age your lawn, as can applying too much fertilizer. When fertilizing either type of grass, do not apply other chemicals, such as herbicides or insecticides, at the same time as fertilizer, and don’t buy more fertilizer than you’ll need, since it does not store well. Also, don’t mix cool-season and warm-season grass types, or you’ll get a very patchy lawn filled with different colors and textures. Talk to your local garden center lawn expert to help you select the grass type that performs best in your region and climate, and get personalized advice on the type and amount of fertilizer to buy.
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PAGE 18 ■ FALL HOME IMPROVEMENT
THE HERALD ■ FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 25, 2015
Winter-proof your pipes before cold arrives By CATHERINE MCNULTY Creators.com After a long, hard winter, the signs of spring are eagerly awaited. But don’t let your spring thaw turn into a flood. Frozen pipes can lead to burst pipes, which can lead to costly home repairs. How can you prevent this? Before we get to prevention, first we have to understand why this happens. As water freezes, it expands. Water trapped in a pipe is no different, and even the sturdiest pipes are no match for Mother Nature in this regard. If you live in a place where it is likely to get and stay below freezing for extended periods of time, or if there is even a possibility of this, you should spend some time getting to know the pipes and plumbing in your house. First, you should know how to shut off the main water valve. If you do experience a burst or a leaking pipe, this will be invaluable. Second, locate the pipes that are at risk of freezing. The pipes most likely to freeze during the winter are those that are exposed
outside or run along the exterior walls of your home or come in through your foundation. You should also be aware of pipes that run through unheated areas of your house: those in the attic or basement or in a crawl space. These pipes are at risk, too. Any pipe you will not be using during the winter -- such as those that supply outside faucets — should be drained (per manufacturers instructions) before the cold weather sets in. For pipes that cannot be drained, consider insulating them. Pipe sleeves are a popular option and are available at almost any hardware store. Heat tape is another option, though a more expensive one. Even newspaper, about a fourth of an inch thick, bound around a pipe can offer a quick fix of insulation. During extreme cold weather, consider letting water drip from faucets that are served by exposed or at-risk pipes. The running water will help prevent total freezing in the pipes. You may want to keep the door to your basement or attic
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open to circulate warm air. Yes, your heating bill will go up as a result. But a heating bill is cheaper than replacing ruptured pipes. How can you tell if a pipe has frozen? The easiest way is to check your faucets. If you turn one on and the water pressure is weak or nonexistent, then you most likely have a frozen pipe. So what should you do? Keep the faucet open. As you thaw the ice, you want it to run. Once the water starts to flow, the running water will help melt the remaining ice. Apply heat to the frozen section of pipe. If it’s a big section, you may need to work in smaller sections. Never use exposed flames such as blowtorches, kerosene/propane heaters or charcoal stoves on frozen pipes. You can use electrical forms of heat such as a heating pad, a hair dryer or a portable space heater, but be careful. If the ice in a pipe has caused a fracture, then it will start to leak when it thaws. Water and electricity do not mix. You can also wrap the frozen pipe in a heavy towel or some such
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THE HERALD ■ FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 25, 2015
FALL HOME IMPROVEMENT ■ PAGE 19
Hardy succulents offer unique winter landscapes By COURTNEY DAVISON Creators.com Succulents have been a huge landscaping and home decorating trend the last two years — and for good reason. They are easy to care for, drought-tolerant and intricately stunning. While the term “succulents” likely brings to mind images of cacti under a sizzling sun somewhere in the Southwest, this diverse category of plants includes all kinds of species, many of which are fit for more moderate and even colder weather. If you want a fall and winter landscape that’s not your average batch of snowdrops and holly bushes, here are some succulents to consider incorporating.
Purple ice plants Also known as Delosperma cooperi, purple ice plants form dense beds of grassy green leaves topped off with bright fuchsia flowers. “Ice plants love dry heat, but they also do well in winter,” says Jacqueline Tranter of Photosynthesis Floral Design. “(Delosperma cooperi) are tough.” Tranter adds that while these evergreen plants can tolerate winter temperatures that hover around zero, they aren’t ideal for regions with extremely cold
winters. Water sparingly. October Daphne Tranter also recommends October Daphne (scientifically, Sedum sieboldii). Like the Autumn Joy, October Daphne flower in the fall, providing a stark, saturated contrast to browning landscapes. The plant deepens in color the colder it gets. These fleshy plants make for great groundcover. October Daphne tolerates temperatures down through USDA hardiness zone 3 (negative 40 degrees Fahrenheit).
Yucca glauca Phillips picks yuccas as another favorite for winter, but be careful which species of yucca you select, since many are more suited for mild climates. Yucca glauca (or soapweed yucca) are a safe bet. These extremely cold-hardy plants are native to the Midwestern United States and can survive temperatures as low as negative 30 degrees Fahrenheit. Charlie McDonald of the USDA Forest Service notes that yucca make good
Hens and chicks Although their genus is called Sempervivum, they are more widely known by their endearing nickname, hens and chicks. The main plant (the hen) grows buds (the chicks), which then grow their own roots and become smaller plants clustered around the mother. These little green rosettes are hardy plants and “can withstand temperatures well below freezing,” says Susannah Phillips, who runs the succulent-themed blog at http://susannahssucculents. tumblr.com. “They make great groundcover all year.” Hens and chicks are graded down to USDA hardiness zone 5 — about minus 20 degrees Fahrenheit. What will kill them is prolonged wetness, so consider covering them with plastic if your area experiences a lot of rain. Extended snow cover is fine, though; in fact, the snow acts as insulation against extreme cold temperatures and gusts of wind. ‘Autumn Joy’ “Autumn Joy” is a fitting moniker for Sedum telephium. These evergreen plants reach their peak in the fall with flowers that bloom a beautiful pink color and then turn a dusky bronze as the season progresses. Their long stalks add height and interest to your winter landscape. Horticulture resource Heritage Perennials reports that Autumn Joy keep their heads even after they are done blooming, creating a pale purple, romantic, driedflower effect. These succulents can survive in USDA hardiness zones 2 through 9, which include regions with temperatures as low as minus 40 degrees Fahrenheit. Don’t water them during winter months.
Pipes (Concluded from Page 18 derneath the area you’re treating to catch the runoff water. If you’re in an area where the pipe is frozen, boiling water will eventually cool and freeze, as well, resulting in an even bigger mess. When in doubt, call a professional, though this can be costly and time consuming. When it comes to pipes, the old adage “an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure” is especially apt. In general, if you live in an area where there is the potential for a harsh winter, spend some quality time winterizing your home. Replace or add additional insulation to your attic and/or basement. Check for gaps in and around your home and seal them. Such gaps are commonly found near windows, dryer vents and places where cables for phone/ Internet/television have been put through a wall. Not only will this help with your pipes, but it also will help with your heating bill. This winter, stay warm and keep the water flowing.
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barrier plants because the tips of their leaves are needle sharp. They also make great accent pieces, as their unique, spikey aesthetic complements softer lawns and gardens. An added bonus: Once mature, they bloom beautiful milky white flowers in the spring. Water sparingly. Not only will these plants thrive through the winter, but also they will continue blooming through the spring and summer, year after year.
PAGE 20 ■ FALL HOME IMPROVEMENT
THE HERALD ■ FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 25, 2015
Feeling Zen: Plan tranquility pool for backyard By KRISTEN CASTILLO Creators.com Sure, pools are for swimming, but these days they’re also a source of relaxation, luxury and entertainment. That’s why many upscale pool companies are designing tranquility pools to provide users with a Zen feeling. “Tranquility” is used to describe “a backyard environment that is calming or soothing,” says Tom Casey, vice president of sales at Anthony & Sylvan Pools. A relaxing getaway at home Many hotels, resorts and luxury spas offer tranquility pools to their guests, a luxury amenity appreciated by travelers looking for R and R. Still, the tranquility pool experience isn’t limited to vacation destinations. Homeowners can have the same soothing experience in their own yard. “Many very upscale swimming pool designs today are rarely used to swim recreationally,” says Casey. “They have become, in some cases, works of art that are used more as a backdrop for entertaining, to decompress after a long day at the office or to blend into a scenic environment.” Calming touches that complete the tranquility pool experience include lush backdrops like relaxing water walls, wind chimes and canopy coverings. Peaceful music, soft lighting and comfortable seating help users take in the sights and sounds of serenity. These days, many tranquility pool owners can even control their sound systems and lighting via an app on their tablets and smartphones.
Getting started Ready to install a tranquility pool in your backyard? Make sure you have enough space in your yard for the type of tranquility pool you want. Circular pools can be great for smaller yards, while rectangular pools are ideal for swimming and hosting parties. “Today more and more of the exterior home textures are introduced into the pool design,” says Casey. “In essence, we create another room to the home; it’s just outside!” Designers can work with you to create a pool that’s a fit for your backyard and your budget. “Municipal requirements dictate the buildable space, which in turn gives the designer freeboard to marry form with function,” says Casey, noting designers are just as detailed on “structural portions” as they are on “aesthetic additions” that “require engineering or hydraulic specifications designed to produce water flow and sound.” Pool pros No matter what amenities you
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Built with luxury and relaxation in mind, tranquility pools are often used more for entertaining than they are for swimming. add to your pool, be sure you’re working with a professional designer. “Regardless of the type of pool you’re hoping to get, never choose a contractor solely based on price,” says Rebecca Robledo, construction/design editor for Pool and Spa News. “Go with somebody
who is licensed according to the laws in your state, county or city. “Check your potential builder’s track record with the licensing agency and other outlets, and ask for customer referrals. It sounds basic, but too many homeowners don’t follow that simple rule, and they pay the price.”
Artful additions From cascading waterfalls and fountains to stone, brick and cement finishes, tranquility pools look and feel lavish. You can add bubbling spas, tanning walls (so you can get a tan while you’re in the water) and even have a beach entry, where you walk on a slight slope into the shallow end of the pool without stairs (a great option for seniors and kids). For a modern feel, get an infinity pool with vanishing edges. Homeowners can also invest in built-in LED lighting to set the right mood in the pool. Think calm blue or pretty pink lights to showcase your stylish fun side at your next party. Once your tranquility pool is ready, be sure you have all the other details covered, including coordinated towels, pillows and seating. Don’t forget soothing lighting in the pool area like candles, lanterns and market lights. While your pool may be pretty and inviting, don’t be surprised if you and your guests sit poolside, soaking up the Zen vibes from your backyard tropical oasis.
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