thursday, September 11, 2014
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Bright Lights, Big City Meet Francesca Rosella and Ryan Genz, co-founders of CuteCircuit, a Shoreditch, London–based label that merges space-age technology and high fashion. As the duo (who dress celebs such as Katy Perry and Nicole Scherzinger) hit New York this season, they’re bringing along a light, bright couture creation inspired by the newest Mercedes-Benz AMG Coupe. BY DENA SILVER When was CuteCircuit’s big break? Francesca Rosella: We came out with the Hug Shirt in 2006, and it was named Best Invention of the Year by Time. The shirt emulates the sensation of being hugged by a friend from the other side of the world! Our second big break was when we dressed Katy Perry for the Met Gala in 2010. After that we started getting requests for dresses from all over the world. Has Katy Perry become a repeat customer? Francesca: Of course! Katy tells us that she needs a CuteCircuit dress for an event, then we brainstorm with her stylist Johnny Wujek, and start sketching. Once we’ve decided on fabrics, we start to make the dress. We have Katy’s measurements in our records, so we know exactly how to make the dress for her body. Can you explain how a CuteCircuit garment works, for a technophobe? Francesca: Most people think wearable technology means lots of wires and a huge battery inside the garment, but fortunately that’s not the case. There are no wires in CuteCircuit clothing, and the battery is very small and rechargeable. We’ve developed many techniques and materials over the years, so our finished product is equally fashionable and functional. And what gets designed first, the clothing or the technology? Francesca: We do the clothing first and then we introduce the technology so that everything integrates perfectly. Have you ever been electrocuted during the design process? Francesca: No! All our pieces use a three-volt battery, which is the same one your FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
watch uses. You can touch the battery all you want and it won’t shock you. What’s the latest technology you’re developing? Francesca: We’re trying to bring the fashion purchasing process into the digital era. We thought a lot about store transactions and what people do when they go to a store and purchase a garment. Ryan Genz: That’s what our Spring 2015 collection was all about. Francesca: We’ve also been perfecting a handbag design since last year. I love handbags and shoes, so I think everyone should have light-up versions of them. I think it’s very important! We hear that you’ve partnered with Mercedes-Benz for New York Fashion Week. Tell us about the results! Francesca: We’ve created a beautiful display in front of a car with one of our couture garments. The CuteCircuit piece plays a video that tells the story of the S63 AMG Coupé in NYC. It acts as a visual platform to start a conversation about the intersection of fashion and technology. Is this the first time you’ve joined forces with Mercedes-Benz? Francesca: Oh, we love Mercedes. We actually designed a beautiful pilot suit for a U.K. TV commercial for the E63 AMG. From that partnership, we became really connected with how exciting the technology in a car really is. Ryan: Automobile design is one area where there’s a bit of fashion combined with a lot of technology. We love that juxtaposition! How would you describe your driving style? Francesca: Ryan is a very cautious driver, but I really like fast cars. You wouldn’t want to see me on an Italian highway! Why do you show in New York instead of London, where you are based? Francesca: Because our largest customer base and fan club is in New York. Plus, we love to visit New York, so it’s a lot of fun to come here. Have you ever come across one of your designs on the street? Ryan: We don’t usually see our pieces on the street, but we often get customers requesting to Skype with us so they can show us their CuteCircuit piece in motion. And what do you see as the future of fashion? Francesca: We think the future of fashion will be more connective and fun. Ryan: We see it evolving into super fashion—fashion with magical powers! CAR: COURTESY
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OSCAR DE LA RENTA
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your daily dose SCENE
COVER REVEAL! With Robbie Myers
Congrats on the Alex Gonzalez hire. He was the right choice for so many reasons. He has such a deep knowledge of fashion. Will you be bringing in new photographers for your covers? Absolutely. Any hints? We’re shooting November right now, and we have nine covers. Pretty please, tell us who’s on them? We just shot Nicole Kidman. That’s something I shouldn’t say, but I’ll tell you!
HOTELIER ALERT! With Daphne Groeneveld How old are you now? 19. Growing up before our eyes! What did you do this summer? I went to Sardinia with my parents, my brothers, and my boyfriend. I had two weeks off, and we did nothing. Hope you reapplied the sunscreen! Like every hour! Do you still want to open a hotel? One day. Now I’m focusing on modeling, but once I’m done… Would you ever move to NYC? Well, I love Holland too much, and my boyfriend is there!
52 SECONDS! With Barbara Walters You’re early! I’m always early. Tell us about Oscar. Wonderful, loyal, funny. smart! I don’t know a man who has more true friends. FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
☛ Oscar’s crowd was positively buzzing. On every seat was a small stuffed elephant, with a letter from Bill and Hillary Clinton that read, “Did you know that each day 96 elephants are killed by poachers who smuggle tusks to the global black market for use in luxury goods and trinkets?” Sob. ☛ A focused, accomplished Rodarte collection from Kate and Laura Mulleavy. So why was Tavi looking so sullen? ☛Meanwhile, Zang Toi toasted his 25th anniversary with a Lincoln Center spectacle that included Whoopi Goldberg and cake. J’adore!
CAKE WALK! With Zang Toi Happy 25th anniversary! It feels so good—I’m so happy! The collection was very inspiring! Yes, I wanted to dedicate it to America and to all the people who wish to live here one day. I’m living the American dream. Did you know the photography pit was going to give you a cake? No, I had no idea! I usually hate walking the runway after the show, but that was so nice of them! I thank the press so much!
COUTURE MOMENT! With Julie Macklowe
ZANG TOI’S 25th ANNIVERSARY!
It’s Zang’s 25th anniversary! When did you first meet? I feel like we were separated at birth! He was one of my first vbeauté customers, and I have the most love for Zang in the world. As he will tell you, I was his one and only muse, and he’s mine. Do you make him custom products? I give him as much as he wants, but he still insists on paying me.
TV MOMENT! With Betsey Johnson When were you approached to join Dancing With the Stars? Two weeks ago! My partner is Tony Dovolani, whom I love! Where did you go dancing when you were younger in NYC? I basically majored in cheerleading at Syracuse University. I was head cheerleader. That’s why I can do the cartwheel split! Are you going to design your own outfits for the show? Yes! Oh, I’m being my funky old self. I can’t wear those nude costumes! I’m going for the friendly vibe, not the body vibe. If you had an ideal or favorite fashion dance partner, who would it be? Giorgio Sant’Angelo, Willi Smith, or John Kloss— all wonderful designers that we lost. I mean, I see Oscar and Gaultier and da da da, but the guy I would have fun dancing with would be Carlos Falchi. See, I just love him.
Dakota Fanning
RODARTE
SMOKING HOT! With Chloe Nørgaard Where’s home for you? Huntington, Long Island. How often do you caffeinate during Fashion Week? I don’t, because caffeine makes me crazy! I just smoke cigs. Any TV preferences? I like Orange Is the New Black, but I watch it within two or three days! I have to wait another year for the next season. What about trashy TV shows? No. But I like The Office, too! getty images (12); bfanyc.com (7)
Maurizio Cattelan
PROVOCATION! With German Glamour EIC Andrea Ketterer Would you ever put Kim Kardashian on your cover? Never. In Germany she’s very provocative, but in a negative sense. It would address the wrong people. In Germany, she’s nothing! Is that a good reason to move to Germany? Come! We welcome you.
TAKE COVER!
z Buz Fix
DIESEL BLACK GOLD
With German Vogue EIC Christiane Arp Who graced your September cover? Vanessa Axente, shot by Daniel Jackson. I love her beauty. It fits the season’s fashion beautifully. Would a Kim Kardashian cover sell in Germany? I don’t know. People are aware of her, but I don’t know if people in the middle of Germany would even know who she is.
PARTNER MOMENT! With André Balazs
How was your summer? It was the most therapeutic one I’ve ever had. I was in St. Tropez twice, where I have a house, Spain twice, London five times, and the Hamptons twice. A lot of rosé consumed? Rosé everywhere! I’ve been drinking rosé since I discovered it in the South of France 35 years ago. We had to ship some back from L.A. to Sunset Beach as the drought occurred.
ter. “I am a meat ea ate tim ul e th Prosciutto is , salami, all to me. Prosciuttoeats—those sorts of dried m od group!” are their own fo an at the —Mara Hoffm BA dinner
DISCUSS
With Anna Dello Russo at Marc by Marc Jacobs
Rosie Assoulin Spring ’15
☛ Rock on! Diesel Black Gold showed stage-ready looks in black, white, and red, while Rosie Assoulin went for decidedly more opera-ready fare. ☛ Veggies and fine jewels were the theme at Bon Appétit’s Feast or Fashion din for Pamela Love at The Spotted Pig on Tuesday, where April Bloomfield served hot pink deviled eggs (beet-pickled, of course). The crowd included Helena Christensen, an adorably pregnant Ally Hilfiger, and even this season’s random frontrower, Skrillex.
We understand that you were at Riccardo Tisci’s birthday party in Ibiza. It was totally fun and filled with celebrities. He connects people, from pop stars to fashion people to young kids. It’s a very modern example of a social life. Kim and Kanye, Puff Daddy, Kate Moss, Orlando Bloom, Joan Smalls…. He’s like the new Gianni Versace. Who had the worst hangover? Nobody talked to me about hangovers, because I don’t drink. I just have energy.
Helena Christensen Pamela Love and Adam Rapoport
heard
“Badass, right?”— Cynthia Rowley on the gold bike helmets at her show. ☛ “I now have two husbands. I’m still working for W, but I’m also the fashion editor for Vogue Japan.”—Giovanna Battaglia at Oscar de la Renta. ☛ “The No. 1 difference is that you actually see color.”— Keija Minor, Brides EIC, comparing New York Fashion Week to Bridal Fashion Week at Vera Wang.
IBIZA MOMENT!
BON APPÉTIT DINNER Steve Hash, Skrillex
April Bloomfield
Ally Hilfiger
Ready to Glow? At Public School, Grace Lee for Maybelline New York dreamed up a dewy, military-inspired look that conveyed strength. She began with Dream Wonder Fluid Touch Foundation and Dream Lumi Highlighting Concealer before creating a soft eye using Eye Studio Color Tattoo 24HR Cream-Gel Shadow in Dramatic Black, layered with Eye Studio Lasting Drama Gel Eyeliner.
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
bfanyc.com (6); getty images (5); firstview (2); patrickmcmullan.com; maybelline: courtesy
1OOO EXCLUSIVES • 1OO DESIGNERS • 1 STORE
From left to right: Diane von Furstenberg jumpsuit and clutch, Alexis Bittar necklace • Ted Baker London floral print dress and shoes • Theory coat, turtleneck and skirt, Vince shoes • Canali suit • and hundreds more
A B S O L U T E LY O R I G I N A L , R I D I C U L O U S LY S T Y L I S H , I N C R E D I B LY C O L L E C T I B L E P I E C E S T H AT YOU WON’T FIND ANYWHERE ELSE. B L O O M I N G D A L E S .C O M /100 P E R C E N T # 100 P E R C E N T B L O O M I E S
z z Bu Julia Restoin Roitfeld at the AnOther Magazine dinner
michael kors
THE WORLD IS FLAT!
With Michael Kors
Fix
SCENE
☛ Flower power! Maggie Rizer opened a glorious Michael Kors show. Flats, flats, and only flats? We approve! ☛ AnOther Magazine and Maiyet hosted a chic dinner at 222 Bowery. ☛ Did you simply adore the photo of Alan Cumming in Monday’s issue? Check out more work from that brilliant young photog at RicardoNelson.com. ☛ DailyFrontRow.com has been totally redesigned. When you check it out, sign up for our dishy newsletter!
All the women were wearing flats! Jada Pinkett Smith and Not a heel in the show. Joan Kors I love seeing women who are able to move. The collection is optimistic chic. Jessica Fashion people someChastain times think you have to be sad to be chic, but I’m here to tell you that’s not the case at all. The music was very fun. I grew up in Long Island, in car culture, and the minute the summer came, the top went down and the wind was in your hair. I wanted the music to be something you can sing along to. We always like to know what you’ve seen in the theater… We’ve been on a hiatus, but everything is heating up now. Like all the fashion folk, I can’t wait to see Tavi [Gevinson]. I’m also eager to see The Curious Incident, because it’s a spectacular book.
Laura Marciano, Rebecca Dayan, and Annabelle Dexter-Jones
SMELLING DIVINE!
With Kilian Hennessy, the storied perfumer behind By Kilian You just launched a scented jewelry line. How does that work? I always had the ambition to make perfume visible. I started with a clutch. For our jewelry, we used micro-encapsulation, which puts a scent into a microcapsule that can be injected into fabric, on the silk cords and leather bracelets. The scent will last for about a year. Wow. Any other aesthetic signatures? Every metal piece has a cage element; inside is a ceramic piece to capture the scent. You choose a style, then pick one of 26 scents to put in the ceramic piece. When it loses its scent, you just respray the ceramic!
Natalia Kills
ANOTHER MAG DINNER
Jefferson Hack and Naomi Campbell
the
CHEESE ALERT!
With Julie Henderson at Pamella Roland
Pamella’s from Michigan. Do you go to the Midwest? I go to Wisconsin a lot. Leigh Lezark For cheese? No, for work. What’s new? I’m launching the next set of my Au Naturale beauty line!
front row Editor in Chief, CEO
Brandusa Niro Guillaume Bruneau Creative Director Christopher Tennant Executive Editor
Eddie Roche Deputy Editor
Managing Editor Tangie Silva Features Editor Alexandra Ilyashov Fashion News Editor Paige Reddinger Contributing Editors Ashley Baker, Sarah Horne Grose Writer/Reporter Dena Silver Art Director Teresa Platt Contributing Photographer Giorgio Niro Contributing Photo Editor Jessica Athanasiou-Piork Contributing Copy Editor Joseph Manghise Imaging Director George Maier Contributing Imaging Assistant Mihai Simion President, Publisher Paul Turcotte Account Director Chloe Worden Events & Corporate Partnerships Director Jessica Fafara Marketing Manager Kelly Carr Publishing Coordinator Piero Bellizzi Digital Director Daniel Chivu Manufacturing Operations Michael Esposito Amy Taylor
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Nicole,
j’adore! The Daily Front Row is a Daily Front Row Inc. publication. Copyright 2014. All rights reserved. Reproduction without permission is strictly prohibited. Requests for reprints must be submitted in writing to: The Daily, Attn: Tangie Silva, 135 West 50th Street, 4th Floor, New York, NY 10020.
BACK TO SCHOOL!
With Joshua Williams, chair of the fashion department at Berkeley College You joined Berkeley about a year ago. What’s new? Starting this winter, we’re going to be updating our curriculum to include things like product life-cycle management and sustainability. I also wanted to make sure that the study of omni-channel retailing was very much an inherent part of the curriculum. Frankly, I think the industry expects people to have a well-developed digital capability going into a job. What distinguishes Berkeley? While we’re based in New York City, we have campuses in areas around New York State and New Jersey. That means we invite students from the metropolitan area as
a whole to take fashion classes in their own backyard, while having constant access to our New York City school. What’s your take on the business of fashion? The fashion department is part of the school of business. Students take business management alongside fashion courses. Our students have both specific and foundational skills.
On the cover: Rodarte Spring ’15, photographed by FirstView.
bfanyc.com (5); getty images (7); all others courtesy FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
S:13”
©2014 Maybelline LLC.
S:10.25”
runway
Spring 2015
rodarte Under the sea? Down in the valley? Kate and Laura Mulleavy were inspired by several locations this season, but it’s when looking to nature that they find surest footing. (No offense to Star Wars and the Sunset Strip, chÊries.) The killer coats and net skirts were especially divine, but the same can be said of their draped dresses, high-waisted jeans, and trim jackets.
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Mix master! A work of art from Prabal Gurung, whose wide-leg pants and matching chambray shirts and shorts were paired with fringe and cleverly-treated florals.
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
firstview
An Urban Oasis
Presenting Downtown Miami’s Most Anticipated Condominium Tower 1001 S OUTH MIAMI AVENUE | MIAMI, FLORIDA 33130 WWW.BRICKELLFLATIRON.COM | 888-690-8526
EXCLUSIVE MARKETING & SALES BY CMC REAL ESTATE LLC EQUAL HOUSING OPPORTUNITY | ORAL REPRESENTATIONS CANNOT BE RELIED UPON AS CORRECTLY STATING THE REPRESENTATIONS OF THE DEVELOPER . FOR CORRECT REPRESENTATIONS, MAKE REFERENCE TO THIS BROCHURE AND TO THE DOCUMENTS REQUIRED BY SECTION 718.503, FLORIDA STATUTES, TO BE FURNISHED BY A DEVELOPER TO A BUYER OR LES SEE. THIS OFFERING IS MADE ONLY BY DEVELOPED BY UGO COLOMBO | DESIGN BY JULIAN S CHNABEL | ARCHITECTURE BY LUIS REVUELTA THE OFFERING DOCUMENTS FOR THE CONDOMINIUM AND NO STATEMENT SHOULD BE RELIED UPON IF NOT MADE IN THE OFFERING DOCUMENTS. THIS IS NOT AN OFFER TO SELL, OR S OLICITATION OF OFFERS TO BUY, THE CONDOMINIUM UNITS IN STATES WHERE SUCH OFFER OR S OLICITATION CANNOT BE MADE. PRICES, PLANS AND SPECIFICATIONS ARE SUBJECT TO CHANGE WITHOUT NOTICE.
runway
Spring 2015
Marc by
marc Luella Bartley and Katie Hillier have a knack for delivering the unexpected. How did they follow up last season’s Tokyo-style biker warriors? The gang was decked out in down-and-dirty rave attire, from latex leggings to oversize anoraks. The legions of House fans will be pleased.
narciso
rodriguez Necklines plunged very deep on Narciso’s day-toevening dresses—ladies avec cleavage need not apply. But lithe types will rejoice, especially when it comes to splendid little shifts with perfectlydrawn lines.
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
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Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Spring 2015 Collections
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runway
Spring 2015 Michael
kors A gorgeous burst of gingham, florals, and ’50s silhouettes like cropped khakis, trim buttondowns, and cuffed denim. Luxurious Americana that was both nostalgic and optimistic— who does it better than Kors?
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
getty images
#BIZ WITH
STYLE “Berkeley College is a perfect fit. I am so happy here. My professors have really sparked my creativity and provided me with a deep understanding of current fashion and business trends. As a blogger focusing on the Fashion Industry, I also learned how social media can be used as a powerful marketing and communication tool. I know I am prepared for my career because of what I am learning here at Berkeley.� Raquel Rivera Berkeley College Fashion Blogger
Call 800-446-5400 ext. BFF, visit BerkeleyCollege.edu/Fashion or email info@BerkeleyCollege.edu
Find us @BerkeleyCollege and #BizWithStyle
Berkeley College reserves the right to add, discontinue, or modify its programs and policies at any time. Modifications subsequent to the original publication of this information may not be reflected here. For the most up-to-date information, please visit BerkeleyCollege.edu. For more information about Berkeley College graduation rates, the median debt of students who completed programs, and other important disclosures, please visit BerkeleyCollege.edu/disclosures. P4597.8.2014
runway
Bibhu mohapatra Gorgeous gala gowns, sumptuous furs, and ladylike day dresses are par for the course with Bibhu. And you can find him arm in arm with many of his clients at any number of tony affairs around town. But this season he also targeted a younger, edgier clientele with graphic prints on crop top looks, dark lips, sunglasses and head scarfs.
Spring
2015
beauty
trend
{Bordeaux Lips}
Yadim FOR maybelline new york
Pamella
roland Sapphire and lavender splendor! There were any number of looks at Pamella Roland that would satisfy her sophisticated and feminine woman like a sexy highcut ivory gown to go with some killer stems. But it was the richer berry hues like a cut-out halter swing skirt dress that caught the eye.
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M getty images
CHIC Revamp
Retail THeRAPY
Saks Fifth Avenue is undergoing a major facelift. Just this month, the luxury retailer announced a new look for its catalogs, new packaging design, and a personalized in-home shopping service. We caught up with newly installed CMO Mark Briggs, formerly of Harrods, to find out what’s in store, aside from 80 new brands. BY PAIGE REDDINGER
You’ve only been at Saks for eight months and the store has already undergone a major overhaul. What was your first priority? Refining first impressions. There are much more elevated brands, and the merchant team has helped with the visual merchandising in the store to create more visible high points. In the New York store, for example, we added new lighting to the beauty department on the first floor and that has completely changed the shopping experience. Not just for the customer, but for the sales associate as well. You can see there is a much different energy. What about the design of the shopping bags and boxes? We looked at this wonderful heritage that Saks Fifth Avenue has and the amazing logo, which had had many iterations over the years. We wanted to keep the brand front and center on the bag. Not to say that what was done before wasn’t right, but I want to make sure that we make Saks Fifth Avenue prevalent on our bags, and we won’t be changing that. What we will be doing is adding little touches to it by changing the black and white grosgrain ribbon at different promotional times throughout the year. The new catalogs are much more editorial. Is there a new team behind them? We’re reenergizing and reworking with the existing team. With more than 80 new brands coming into the business, we needed to engage our audience in a much more high-profile way, and with that comes a more editorial approach. I want people to want this book on their coffee tables. I want them to feel they can relate back to the book, not just look at it once and then leave it. What photographers and stylists are you using? We work with the most famous editors and photographers in the industry. We work with fashion editors like Giovanna Battaglia, Kate Young, Katie Mossman, Jenny Capitain, and Lori Goldstein. We work with photographers like Yelena Yemchuk, Chris Colls, and Emma Summerton. That’s for our women’s catalog. For men’s, we work with fashion editors like Nick Sullivan, Michael Nash, and Tony Irvine, plus photographers Gavin Bond, Phil Poynter, and Greg Harris. They have brought these books to life. How does the personalized shopping experience work for customers? Appointments can be booked through the Saks Fifth Avenue Club. In delivering the personal shopping experience, from our wonderful new app, there’s no minimum spend required. It’s been about 12 days since we launched, and our customers who have tried the service found it absolutely amazing. We prepare the van prior to our arrival to your house, obviously trying to understand you FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
as a shopper. In many cases, we understand our customers already, so we know what kind of designers our clients would like, but now we can go that extra mile by arriving with a personal shopper and delivering it to your house; a tailor would actually be there as well to fit and to change the outfits when required. We want to do everything for them in a seamless way, which gives our clients more time to do other things in their life. Does this service apply to all stores? Not at the moment. We launched in New York City, and then basically the service extends to the tri-state area. We will be rolling out the program in Beverly Hills and in Miami as the next two destinations. What we will do is watch those and see how they develop, and if we need to add more, I can assure you we will. Will there be a base fee you have to pay for this service? No fee at all. Will there be any in-store rebranding? Yes, for example, our lingerie departments have been upgraded from the perspective of visual newness of brands like Agent Provocateur, that are coming into the business. We branded that area around lingerie instead of calling it “Intimates.” It gives a much more feminine boutique/salon feel. If you look into the fall fashion book, you can see a very elegant lingerie shoot that evokes what you’re going to find in-store. Our vision is to have that complete 360 approach. So if you’re going to visit our brick and mortars, if you’re going online, or even if you’re using our personal shoppers, you are getting exactly the same kind of experience. What can we expect from the windows at Saks? Luckily Saks has always been renowned for its holiday windows and holiday unveiling. But all I can say is that we’re going to be transforming the store. I’ve been having meetings even before I started with the team about the holidays. It will be nothing short of spectacular and will give something back to the public. What’s it like to change jobs after working at Harrods for most of your career? Harrods is a historic retailer, and now I’ve been lucky enough to come to the only other brand I would have wanted to work for. Saks has an amazing heritage, and I love companies that have a heritage. There’s a lot of
“
In many cases, we understand our customers already, so we know what kind of designers our clients would like, but now we can go that extra mile by arriving with a personal shopper and delivering it to your house.”
loyalty to this brand, not just with our customers but with our associates. We’ve been lucky enough to be handed the tenureship to move this brand forward and to put it back in its rightful place, and to, as we say, dust it off a little bit and put it in the forefront of the fashion world! What was it like working in London and then moving to New York? I would like to tell you it’s been difficult and I’m nervous or whatever, but I can assure you it hasn’t. From day one I felt that I really fit into the Saks team here. I feel like they’re my family already. I love living in New York. I’ve been here many times, and it’s great to live here now. Have there been any learning curves? The reality is that I’ve worked for a retailer with one major store. Okay, they had licensees across the world, but you know really it was just about coming from a one-store environment to a retailer with 39 stores and soon to be more, as we open up in Canada and Puerto Rico. Our new store opens in Saratoga in October. It’s about getting your head around the fact that whatever you decide to do has to work in the market, and you have to tailor those ideas to specific markets as well. You never stop learning. Is Fashion Week keeping you busy? I should be in a car right now going to Marc by Marc Jacobs!
all images courtesy
CHIC Beauty
by Maybelline New York
Maybelline New York has galvanized the New York runways this season, creating unforgettable looks for 25 shows (and counting). Using the brand’s latest, greatest products, makeup artists like Yadim and the Maybelline New York team have dreamed up brilliant new ways to make your beauty look a strong statement all its own.
SHOW Time
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
1960s eyes at Nanette Lepore all photos courtesy
CHIC Beauty by Maybelline New York
Metallic Eyes Marissa Webb
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
Baja East
Lacoste
Jonathan Simkhai
Cushnie et Ochs
e v e r e t t c o l l e c t i o n ( 2) ; g e t t y i m ag e s
CHIC Beauty
by Maybelline New York
Electric Blues Dannijo
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
Technicolor Lashes Chris Gelinas
CHIC Beauty
by Maybelline New York
DKNY
Yadim backstage at Peter Som
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
Chic Flush Zana Bayne
We
COVERh You wit
Gigi Hadid & Joe Zee
! s e s s i K
Tom Ford
Carine Roitfeld
Graydon Carter
Stefano Tonchi
Naomi Campbell
Carolina Herrera
Jonathan Newhouse
David Carey
Dakota Fanning
Kendall Jenner
Michael Clinton
Ariel Foxman
Kilian Hennessy
Stephanie Phair
Ivan Bart
David Greenberg
Stephen Gan
Kate Upton
Katie Grand
Vinoodh Matadin & Inez van Lamsweerde
Francisco Costa
Humberto Leon & Carol Lim
Graziano de Boni
Claire Danes
Nicole Miller
Patrick McMullan
Laverne Cox
Charles Star Matadin
Lisa Carvalho
Brian Phillips
Monica Botkier
Marc Jacobs
Alessandra Ambrosio
Ying Chu
Robbie Myers
Adam Rapoport
Mark Hoplamazian
Pamella Roland
Nicole Purcell
Remi Barbier
Spree
revolve Top mods Chanel Iman and Barbara Palvin are the new faces of REVOLVE’s Fall ’14 campaign, appearing in the etailer’s new fall catalog, “The A to Z Guide for Going Back to Cool.” Shop the brand’s killer model-off-duty style with edgy pieces from Tularosa, Lovely Bird, Dolce Vita, A.L.C., and more.
All items available at Revolveclothing.com
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
$650
Nicholas feltedwool coat
$242
Alice + Olivia highwaist short
$250
Tularosa Dylan knit coat
$128
NBD Temptress mini dress
$595
Nicholas Circle lace cap sleeve dress
$595
A.L.C. Davenport crossbody
$655
IRO Kailey bootie
$545
June knitted rabbit fur vest
$348
Kate Spade Callen backpack
$189
Dolce Vita Harlene bootie
$248
Citizens of Humanity premium vintage Corey jean
$127
Lovely Bird Buenos Aires Los Muertos wrap hat
$275
Pour La Victoire Vione bootie
$168
Tularosa violet faux shag coat
$325
Rebecca Minkoff Amorous satchel
$495
Sigerson Morrison Aerial bootie all photos courtesy
Are YOU on the list?
who’s Showing!
The final day of NYFW has arrived, which means the Coterie & Sole Commerce trade show is just around the corner. Get familiar with these haute labels before they hit the Javits Center in a few days. BY DENA SILVER
aB
Diane Pollack, Director USA, Booth: 4943 What’s the next piece of outerwear you’ll invest in? A cocoon-shaped coat like the Brianna in our F/W 2014 line. It easily dresses up or down; I’m in love with that new shape! What was the biggest moment for your brand over the past year? Launching at Nordstrom this fall was definitely a major moment! What’s next on your reading list? Arianna Huffington’s Thrive; one of my closest friends just recommended it to me. What’s your go-to gift? My homemade rum cake. It’s my signature dessert!
Raw+ AB
Ryuichiro Shimazaki and Hisako Sato, Designers, Booth: 5140 What’s new for Spring 2015? The collection is mainly composed of pale, cool colors and super thin leather, which is only 0.4 millimeters thick. It's delicate and drapes beautifully. You might not believe our clothes are actually made of leather! What’s special about your label? Many designs come from simple shapes like rectangle, ellipses, or semicircles. They make for an unexpected silhouette on the body. What’s your preferred mode of transportation? Car, definitely!
ANDREW MARC
ANDREW MARC
Tanya Spivey, EVP Design and Merchandising, Booth: 6020 What’s new for Spring 2015? It’s all about texture, frayed edges, and grids. The collection interprets Tough Luxe as an evolution of the textual story that began in Fall 2014, but with lighter materials and brighter colors. What do you pull out of your closet when fall arrives? I can’t wait to layer our fur-lined army parka over a leather motorcycle jacket! Where’s your favorite place in NYC to grab a quiet moment? I love to relax at the courtyard at The Frick. What do you carry around with you in your purse at the shows? Juice Press aloe water, lip balm, and Boscia charcoal wipes.
PAMELLA, PAMELLA ROLAND
RAW+ FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
Pamella Roland, Designer, Booth: 9406 What inspired you to enter the bridal category? Clients were asking about it. We already dress mothers of the bride and bridesmaids! What’s in store for your first bridal collection? We’re opening with 12 looks, and I really wanted to do different sleeves for each dress. I can’t remember the last wedding I went to where the bride didn’t wear a strapless dress, so I want to help women branch out a little bit. Are you working on any special dresses at the moment? My oldest daughter, Cassandra, is getting married next year. She’s already informed me that she will be needing two dresses!
PAMELLA ROLAND
John Paul Ataker
Numan Ataker, Creative Director, Booth: 9334 What’s new in the world of eveningwear? We're pushing innovation in textiles and design, while always embracing the highest quality of craftsmanship. Where do you want to travel next? I’ve been to 30 countries, but I always wanted to see Tibet. Which major event would you love to dress someone for? Cannes would be brilliant, but the presidential inauguration would be genius.
Planet
Lauren Grossman, Owner and President, Booth: 9606 What’s the inspiration for Spring 2015? The inspiration was the 1960’s mod and graphic look. Who’s your favorite model at the moment? Kate Moss, now and always. What’s your favorite snack? When I’m at a trade show and I see mini Almond Joys, that trumps everything!
JESSIE LIU
Josie Natori
JOHN PAUL ATAKER
Josie Natori, Designer, Booth: 3140 What inspired your Spring 2015 looks? The blissful feeling you get from visiting an exotic tropical island: fresh palm trees, seductive sunsets, and euphoric reflections. What was the biggest moment for your brand recently? The opening of our first U.S. boutique was incredibly exciting! Tell us more! The shop brings the Natori East-meets-West concept to life. Customers can shop the merchandise and a personal selection of global antiques that I’ve collected over the years.
JESSIE LIU
Jessie Liu, Chief Executive and Designer, Booth: 822 What’s the story behind your eponymous line? This is our first collection to launch under my own label. Expect a lot of vibrant colors and abstract mosaic prints! What makes you happy? Playing with my 2-year old son; he’s my angel and my sunshine! What’s your favorite way to celebrate? My preferred way to celebrate is to be with my family, having a picnic with some wine and cheese.
ALDOMARTINS
Aldomartins
PLANET
Marti Bisbal,CEO and Creative Manager, Booth: 6821 What’s new for Spring? We've reinvented traditional Asian motifs, giving them a digitized focus and transforming them into sophisticated intarsia and jacquards. What’s your go-to fall outfit? A pair of fitted jeans and black leather boots. What’s next on your list of places to travel to? Formentera, a small hippie island near Barcelona, with my wife!
Sarah Pacini
JOSIE NATORI
Naila Jaffer, Artistic Director, Booth: 1825 Where can we find Sarah Pacini globally? The collection is distributed in 48 countries across five continents, including exclusive boutiques, shop-in-shops in prestigious department stores, and 1,500 high-end retailers. Any accessories you’ll be investing in this season? Soft leather boots with a contrasted color sole. What’s your favorite scent? Voyage d’Hermès.
SARAH PACINI
Autumn Cashmere
Katherine Carpenter, Women’s Design Director, Booth: 4823 How did you come up with your latest collection? I felt the need to cleanse our bright palette from the past few seasons and focus on a softer color story. There are lots of loose, easy cashmere pieces in neutral tones. Any fave fall pieces? Besides our sweaters, blazers, and boots? They are my must-haves for the fall season. They work with anything!
Jonathan Adler
AUTUMN CASHMERE
Jonathan Adler, Potter and Designer, Booth: 4000 What’s new for Spring 2015? Spring 2015 is going to be the season of the backpack— you heard it here first! Ours is printed all over with vintage sunnies. It’s Brigitte Bardot meets Williamsburg. What category would you like to add next to your label? I’d love to design a car. Does that count? Where’s your local happy place? I’m pretty sure heaven is just like Sant Ambroeus. Their elephant ear cookies are solely responsible for my love handles.
AMY MATTO
ELK
DESIGN HISTORY
Design Team, Design History, Booth: 7030 What’s new for the line? We’re very excited for our new jumpsuits, rompers, track pants, and maxi dresses in eye-catching fabrics. What do you most look forward to during the fall? Walking along almost empty beaches, and nights spent sitting by the warm fire. Got any trips on tap? We’re heading to Marrakesh!
AMY MATTO
Amy Matto, Founder and Designer, Booth: 2033 What’s the inspiration for Spring? The inspiration is Malibu Barbie goes to Bermuda! We loosely translated this theme through fun prints, bright colors, and sexy, feminine silhouettes. What’s your favorite item to pull from your closet in the fall? Cashmere, cashmere, cashmere! What’s in your bag during Coterie? My iPhone and lip balm.
JONATHAN ADLER
ELK
ELK
Marnie Goding, Head Designer and Director, Booth: 5724 What do you carry around with you at shows? A leatherbound Moleskine, desert lime and amino-peptide hydrymist from fellow Melbourne brand Grown Alchemist, and Mast Brothers chocolate for emergencies. What is your No. 1 beauty tip to get you through the shows? Sometimes the bright lights feel like being on set, so I always have translucent powder from Laura Mercier within arm’s reach.
Leonor Silva
DESIGN HISTORY FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
Leonor Silva, Founder and Creative Director, Booth: 816 What was the inspiration for Spring 2015? Southampton’s beach houses, the sea, seashells, and sea urchins! Where’s your favorite place in New York for a bit of R&R? The Conservatory Water at Central Park. It's where I got engaged; it brings back happy memories. Who’s the best-dressed New Yorker? Carolina Herrera, without a doubt.
Leonor Silva
KOPAL
Anicy Manuguian
Claudia Anicy, Designer, Booth: 819 It’s your first time at Coterie! I’m the first Chilean designer at Coterie! I want to show my line to the best buyers and make my brand known in the States. What inspired your latest looks? Lace from the 1800s that was found in Italian antique stores. What accessories have you been obsessed with lately? Antique bags! I collected them when I lived in Italy and London for 10 years. I use them as inspiration for my collections now.
Peony
ANICY MANUGUIAN
Stephanie Feldenkreis, Creative Director, Booth: 7137 This is your first time at Coterie! Peony is all about sophistication with an edge. We can always expect lots of prints, mixed media, it's always new and exciting! What is your No. 1 tip to get you through the Coterie shows? Wearing comfortable shoes; I love my Chanel ballet slippers. What was the biggest moment for your brand over the past year? Receiving the first proto of my sample line. It’s amazing seeing my vision come to life!
Masano
Andrea Masano, Owner and Designer, Booth: 522 What’s your must-wear fall hue? Dark taupe. It’s my favorite neutral, and it goes with everything! Who are New York’s best dressed lasses? Amanda Burden, Aerin Lauder, Allison Williams, and the late Lauren Bacall. What’s your go-to gift? My twin sister, Louise, is a really good pastel portrait artist. People love getting art that lasts a lifetime.
TRANSPARENTE
KOPAL
MASANO
PEONY
Kopal Kopal, Founder and Creative Director, Booth: 6645 Where’s your favorite place in New York to grab a quiet moment? Jefferson Market Garden; it’s a hidden gem with a koi pond in the middle of the West Village! What does “Kopal” mean? It means “a newborn leaf” in Sanskrit. What’s your top tip for being eco-friendly on a daily basis? Unplug as you go.
MYSTIQUE
Yamin Levy, Designer, Booth: 4030 What’s new for Spring 2015? We've added a fabulous line of blinged-out jewelry to go with our sandals, which are jewelry for the feet. What's your go-to fall piece? My puffy Gucci jacket. Where can we find you after a long day at the Javits Center? Having a drink in the bar at The Bowery. What’s on your reading list? The Daily Coterie & Sole Commerce!
TRANSPARENTE
Homa Siddiq, Designer, Booth: 810 What’s new for Spring 2015? Beautiful, pure linen sweaters with our signature, unique designs! Why did you decide to start your label? I used to own two boutiques in Germany, and many customers would feel frustrated, sad, disappointed, and ashamed that they couldn’t find fun, funky, clothing in their size.
MYSTIQUE
NOIR SACHIN &BABI
NOIR Sachin & Babi, sachin & babi
Babi Ahluwalia, Creative Director, Booths: 9316, 4013 What silhouette are you into for Spring 2015? We love tea-length dresses, so our customer can show off a cute pair of shoes. Whose Instagram are you obsessed with at the moment? Cara Delevingne’s, obviously! Who’s the best dressed New Yorker? Bergdorf Goodman’s Linda Fargo.
TEAM JAPAN
Jiro Kodate, Representative, Booths: 7533, 7534, 5443, 5445, 6642 What brands are part of Team Japan? Chaka and Double Planet are in Sole Commerce, while Adonisis, Han Ahn Soon, and AS As Know As is in Coterie. Any monumental moments for your brands over the past year? Paris Hilton and Lady Gaga wore clothes from Han Ahn Soon’s collection! What’s next on your list of places to travel to? Singapore.
TEAM JAPAN
GRUPPO MATTEI USA
Ashley B
AB
Sun Choi, Creative Director, Booth: 4126 What are your favorite items to pull out of your closet once fall has officially arrived? Warm oversize sweaters, boots in all shapes and sizes, and my collection of coats, ranging from my slouchy cocoons, to oversize parkas with fur trim, to fur in every color and texture imaginable. Who in New York do you consider to be the best dressed? Kate Lanphear has this effortless cool style with hints of femininity and masculinity. She’s always very chic. How many coats do you have in your closet at the moment? You don’t want to know!
Gruppo Mattei USA
Ashley B
Michela Petrali, President, Booth: 2815 What’s new for Spring/Summer 2015? We focus on graphic prints and soft colors with a pop of brightness. Fabrics such as silk, cotton, knit mesh, and combo fabrics are key. What's your go-to fall outfit? A white shirt, tailored with a jacket and pants, black ankle boots, and a trench coat. What’s your No. 1 beauty tip? Keep hydrated and always have lip gloss on.
RAMY BROOK
n:PHILANTHROPY
Ramy Brook
Ramy Brook, Designer, Booth: 1507 How did you come up with your Spring collection? I’m inspired by the multitasking woman who does it all. She balances work, family time, and a night out with friends. You have a new store! What’s in stock? Some exclusive clothes, unique colors, and limited one-of-akind jewelry. What is your top beauty tip to get you through Coterie? Sleep, but if that’s not possible, a bit of Laura Mercier cover-up.
n:PHILANTHROPY
Yvonne Niami, CEO and Owner, Booth: 7040 Outerwear count please! We live in Los Angeles, so I have two coats, for when I travel to Europe or East Coast. How did the name n:Philanthropy come about? My husband, Nile, and I have been longtime financial supporters of various children’s cancer charities and animal rescue charities; 10 percent of proceeds from n:Philanthropy support these charities. FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
RAMY BROOKS ANICY MANUGUIAN
LA FIORENTINA
La Fiorentina
Ben Hassan, CEO, Booth: 803 What’s new for Spring 2015? Ruanas and ponchos are trending, replacing many accessories such as scarves! Where’s your favorite place in New York to grab a quiet moment? Bryant Park. What’s your favorite type of fur to work with? Mink. What’s been the biggest moment for your brand in 2014? We’ve had great success with Nordstrom and Neiman Marcus.
The Globe Showroom
Jeffrey Cayer, Founder, Booth: 4120 What labels will you be showing at Coterie this season? Addison, American Retro, Ashley B, Deby Debo, Erin Kleinberg, Krisa, One Grey Day, Sam&Lavi, Smythe, and Suss will all be featured. What do you look forward to most in fall? Shopping! Where on the globe do you want to travel to next? You know, no matter how many times I go, I never tire of Paris. There’s just an emotion and beauty that is totally unique to Paris. We just opened a showroom there, too!
ARTICLES OF SOCIETY
Articles of Society
THE GLOBE SHOWROOM
Rick Spielberg, President, Booth: 6104 What’s new for Spring 2015? Super lightweight relaxed jeans and super soft skinny styles with summer washes at a great price. What’s the inspiration for your collection? Comfort, comfort, and comfort. What do you most look forward to during the fall season? Crisp, clean air! Where’s your favorite place in New York to chill out? The roof of the Refectory at the High Line Hotel. What’s the strangest thing you’ve made out of denim? A dog leash for my girl LuLu.
3X1
Scott Morrison, Designer, Booth: 3813 What’s new for the brand these days? We’re introducing new silhouettes for Spring, like our first W4 highrise jeans, culottes, and the crop boot cut. Where do you find a quiet moment in NYC? I love to walk my dogs on the West Side Highway or the FDR Drive. Who are the best-dressed New Yorkers? Vanessa Traina, Olivia Palermo, and Zanna Roberts Rassi. What makes you happy? Mornings with my wife! We make breakfast and read the paper before heading to the office.
Happiness
Michael Scarpellini, CEO, and Eiman Hamza, Creative Director and Designer, Booth: 6145 What’s new for Spring 2015? We're launching our denim collection! It's all made in Italy. Whose Instagram are you obsessed with? We really love Suki Waterhouse. She’s so quirky and refreshingly strange. Which famous folks have worn your designs? Heidi Klum, Anne Hathaway, Kate Beckinsale, Hayley Williams, Kaley Cuoco, Brooklyn Beckham, and Halle Berry, and many more!
3X1
HAPPINESS
y Part SPY!
EYE abounded. Models in masks
FOOD AVERSIONS! With Doutzen Kroes
You look fantastic. Any unusual postbaby slim-down tricks? Breast-feeding! You burn, like, 3,000 calories a day doing it, so I guess that helped. My healthy lifestyle did, too. The body has very strong muscle memory. Did your sense of smell change during pregnancy? Yes. I was not into chicken or fish at all. I was more vegetarian than usual, actually!
Fix
Rita Ora
SCENE
Leave it to Calvin Klein to give us the best Iggy Azalea view in town. The place: the 68th floor of the new 4 World Trade Center building in Lower Manhattan. The occasion: the launch of the brand’s newest fragrance, REVEAL Calvin Klein. Iggy Azalea, Rita Ora, and Dev Hynes performed for the crowd, which drew oodles of notables. The buzziest: The future Mrs. Johnny Depp. (That would be Amber Heard, friends.)
CALVIN KLEIN PARTY Liu Wen
IMAGE MAKING! With Italo Zucchelli
Calvin Klein always rolls out excellent whiffs. What’s special about Reveal? It’s the message! There will be versions for men and women, both named Reveal—it’s a voyeuristic, sensual, sexy image associated with the fragrance. Do you feel naked if you leave the house sans fragrance? No, no! But I definitely do enjoy wearing something.
CAMPAIGN CHAT! With Vanessa Axente
What’s your favorite Calvin moment? All of the Euphoria campaigns, like the ones starring Natalia Vodianova or Lara Stone. Any fun stories from shooting the Endless Euphoria campaign? We had a great time, but we had to run in a field from early in the morning until late at night, and at the end of the day, we were so tired we kept falling down!
DIGITAL DISH!
Kevin Carrigan
Hanneli Mustaparta
With Rosario Dawson Amber Heard
Nick Brown
Francisco Costa Vashtie Kola and G-Eazy
Atlanta de CadenetTaylor
SISTERLY LOVE! With Gigi Hadid
You were an excellent Fashion Media Awards co-host. Thank you! It was so nerveracking, but exciting. Afterward, I went to Carine [Roitfeld]’s Bazaar party and let loose! You’re here with your sister, Bella: Do you two reveal everything to each other? She knows more about my life than anyone else! She just moved to NYC, and we have coffee every couple of days. Where? We usually do Gemma. FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
Gigi Hadid
Bella Hadid
STERN LANGUAGE!
With Emily Weiss What question do you find way too revealing? “How much money do you make?” I was just listening to Howard Stern with my boyfriend before this party, and he was interviewing Heidi Klum and Mel B from the Spice Girls, and he asked them about their net worths!
What’s the most revealing place: the doctor’s office, the DMV… The Internet! It’s not even just a peek—once it’s out there, it’s around for centuries. Or as long as the technology works. What are you relieved isn’t online about you? Well, I’m really, really glad I went through puberty before I ever could upload every embarrassing photo of myself.
COLLECTION CHAT! With Francisco Costa
What can you reveal to us about your new collection? There’s certainly a sense of sexuality! It’s very sultry, and very New York. Since this is a party for a scent, what’s your desired smell? Smoky scents. You’re rarely out before your show! I can only be here for two minutes! What would you never reveal? I reveal everything! b fa n yc . c o m