february 19, 2015
francisco costa’s
star
system [How to get your Oscar gown‌ now!]
Plus! The ultimate guide to runway beauty And : More parties and shows to discuss!
A GLOBAL FASHION MARKETPLACE THAT CONNECTS WOMEN’S APPAREL AND ACCESSORY DESIGNERS WITH WORLDWIDE RETAILERS AND MEDIA
FEBRUARY 23.24.25 MON \ TUE \ WED JAVITS CENTER.NYC ENKREGISTRATIONS.COM
REMINISCING!
TOTAL RIOT!
With Glenda Bailey
How do you feel? My thoughts are with Oscar’s friends and family. He’ll always be here in spirit. I’m a great friend and fan of Peter; I’m so happy that he’s here. The room has changed… We have benches instead of the seats, and the Copping mirrors. The same house; different furnishings. We’re loving your Stella McCartney glasses—they make you look younger! In that case, I’m wearing them every day!
TAKING NOTES!
With German InStyle’s Annette Weber
VERA WANG
your daily dose
With Hamish Bowles
What are your thoughts on the changes in the room? It’s very glamorous and elegant. You take notes during shows, do you keep your notebooks? I do. I have them from the early ’80s. Where do you keep them? In one of my many expensive storage facilities. Some of them are in my apartment, because I use them for reference. Why do you keep them? They’re intriguing documents. Now I’m collecting a lot of the clothes that I wrote about back in the day, so it’s fun finding the references. It completes the picture. Do you think you’d ever publish them? I’m not sure anybody would ever be interested, but they might fit in a bigger book project.
SCENE
OSCAR DE LA RENTA
MISSING PURPLE PUFFER ALERT?!
☛ A new era for Oscar de la Renta began at 6:43 p.m. on Monday night, when Peter Copping sent his first designs for the house down the runway at the brand’s storied HQ on 42nd Street. The front row was dominated by guards both old and new—Annette de la Renta and Barbara Walters, Karlie Kloss and Taylor Swift. Bill Cunningham nearly fell while trying to capture the magic, and when Ine Neefs closed the runway, Copping was greeted to thunderous applause—once everyone was finished Instagramming the finale, bien sûr. ☛
BILL WEIGHS IN! “It was absolutely wonderful. It’s a marvelous continuum of everything that Oscar put out there. I’m positive about this new fella. There’s nothing to scare the horses out of the barn. There’s plenty of time in the future for experimental fireworks.”
“Somebody stole my coat and I’m hysterical!” exclaimed Ms. Menkes after the show. (She found it 40 minutes later.)
REMEMBERING OSCAR! With Barbara Walters
Why was it important for you to come to the show? I would come no matter what, but because of Oscar’s passing, I absolutely wanted to come and I feel a great many people felt that way. We’re here to see the fashion, but we’re really here to pay tribute to Oscar de la Renta. Do you know Peter Copping? No. He’s in a tough position, but I wish him well.
“It was beautiful. It’s a very difficult thing that Peter Copping is taking on—you saw the ladies who were in the room. Oscar was deeply loved. It’s a perfect beginning to what I hope will be a very long tenure. He’s a great colorist, which is fantastic. I see a lightness in the touch that’s welcome. Oscar was Oscar. Peter has very big shoes to fill. I know New York is behind him. He’ll find a very warm welcome in this city.”
BOOKWORM MOMENT!
With Lindsey Wixson What are you reading? One Flew Over the Cuckoo’s Nest. I’m about 50 pages in, maybe less. Have you ever seen the movie? I haven’t, but my boyfriend recommended I read the book. It’s a new thing that I’m getting interested in books. His tastes are helping me. What took you so long to get into books? I just got bored with them. Do you have a favorite book of all time? I just read Jack Kerouac’s The Dharma Bums, and I really liked that one. When you were a child, did you take books out of the library? I didn’t really do that. We haven’t seen a lot of you this season. Are you taking it easy? I am. I just had an ankle injury, so I’m nursing that back to health. I’m doing acupuncture and massage therapy. Sorry to hear that! What happened? I walked off the Jean Paul Gaultier stage!
WITHDRAWAL! With Marie Claire’s Kyle Anderson
Alex Gonzalez SAYS...
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
Good to see you in New York! It’s so good to see someone loves the Germans! We are so unpopular. We’re always on time, we are not that skinny, we are tall, we are always so no-nonsense. We are like our chancellor, Angela Merkel— the secret flirt of your Mr. President. They are very close. How’s the love life? Could not be any better! Everything is good. I’ve been with him for a year, which is long now. Is he age-appropriate? [Laughs] Not at all! He’s 35. It’s not that bad. How was Berlin Fashion Week? Boring. We’ve got to do something like get better designers, change the date…if they don’t make some changes, there can’t be a Fashion Week anymore. Who’s on the cover of German InStyle right now? Chiara Ferragni. Surprisingly, she does well. Our audience wants to see new cover concepts, so we’re experimenting.
SELFIES WITH ANNA? MAIS OUI! Wintour looked only mildly annoyed when this young gentleman stopped her en route to ODLR to take a quick snap. The mark of a true star!
How are you feeling? Tired. I’m totally off my game. I’m never used to a lack of caffeine. I’m addicted like really bad. No coffee today?! I had one at home, but it was like water. I need real chemicals. Starbucks has some crazy chemical in it that makes me really jittery, which I love. What’s your worst fashion hangover? Even if I have one drink, I feel like I’m drunk. I only get hangovers from junk food. During Milan and Paris, I eat anything they put in front of me, like a dog. getty images (13); bfanyc.com; patrickmcmullan.com; firstview (2)
S:10.25”
EYE STUDIO GET EXPERT TIPS AT MAYBELLINE.COM ®
BOLD. GRAPHIC.
“The graphic look can be tricky, but the triangle tip gets it right!”
GET THE EDGE. NEW
YADIM GLOBAL MAKEUP ARTIST
™
THE HOW The 1st liquid liner with a genius tri-angled tip. THE WOW Automatically draw our boldest line with the sharpest edge.
INNOVATIVE TRI-ANGLED TIP
Emily is wearing New Eye Studio® Master Graphic™ Liner in Striking Black.
S:13”
LIQUID LINER
z z u B
ART BREAK!
Fix
With illustrator Richard Haines
You’ve brought your daughter to a few shows. What does she think of it all? She loves it. She’s going to college next year and is already thinking, “Wait—if Fashion Week is in September, I’ll have to come back to New York.” We usually see you in your signature orange hat! It was a random choice that turned into a signature or a statement. I love orange— it’s so high energy and a neutral in its own way.
CHELSEA GIRL! With Sarah Rutson
Welcome to New York, Sarah! The apartments are tiny here! I’ve moved to Chelsea and I love it. How did Net-A-Porter poach you from Lane Crawford in Hong Kong? It’s been a long, long talk over many years. I’ve always loved and Joseph admired the brand, and I became Altuzarra friends with Natalie [Massenet] and Alison [Loehnis] and colleagues in the front row. We knew it felt right. It became a question of what it was going to take to lure me away ☛ An international coterie of from Hong Kong. It was always going to chicsters hit Indochine to toast be Net-A-Porter and Sarah Rutson, Net-A-porter’s New York, baby. newly minted VP of global Lucy Yeomans Won’t you miss Sarah Rutson buying. Personalized fans London? decorated by—whom else?— I am a Londoner, a @drawbertson greeted guests, “I love Indochine. Chelsea girl, who noshed on classic Indochine I used to not be and I have “What’s hard to fare such as spicy chicken, sea cool enough to get Hong Kong in believe is that she a reservation here, bass, beef salad, and spring rolls. my soul, but has only been with and now I get to ☛ Meanwhile, J.Crew offered New York has us for 37 days, not have this party for up one of the most versatile (and always been in that we’re counting. Sarah. I feel very Sarah has an amazing my heart. budget-friendly) collections of the cool!”—Natalie eye and style and week. Bravo, Tom Mora! Massenet innate sense of what women want to buy the world over.”
SCENE
J.CREW
PROM MEMORIES! With Mary Alice Stephenson
Did you shop the J.Crew catalog as a teen? Oh yeah, baby. I’m from Michigan—that’s all we wore. I was addicted to the ballet slippers J.Crew has done forever. I had a prom dress from J.Crew. It was pink. Can you believe it? I was a little chunkier in those days, but I tried.
A MOMENT WITH Franca Sozzani…
at the “Women of Integrity” show, which featured 16 women from different companies, photographed by Johan Lindeberg at Spring Studios. How did you get involved with the show? I started to work with the United Nations a few years ago, and the exhibit was a good reason to support women. We took the pictures of the women, and they are bringing awareness. What do you like best about NYFW? The young generation is growing up here and I like daywear. It’s good to care about what you wear during the day! You’ve worked with Steven Meisel for ages. We have such a long relationship. We both were very young, and we grew up together. I think we are both lucky to have each other. I gave him the magazine, and he gave me the pictures. It’s perfect.
COIF TALK!
—Alison Loehnis
With Guido, Redken’s global styling director, backstage at Marc by Marc Jacobs How did you come up with this look? The beret was a key part of this rebellious, revolutionary girl’s look, inspired by the Guardian Angels, a group of people in the mid-’80s and early ’90s who wore red berets and T-shirts with wings on them, rode the subway, and protected people. New York wasn’t such a safe place then! We also looked at pictures of Johnny Rotten from the Sex Pistols, Debbie Harry, and Patty Hearst. I wanted an almost nasty feel. Which products did you use? I used Redken Full Frame 07 Protective Volumizing Mousse in dry hair and let it dry. Any other fave products? Three products I’ve been using a lot are Stay High 18, a new gel-tomousse texturizing and volumizing
Amber Le Bon
product, Wind Blown 05 Dry Finishing Spray, an easy texturizing product, and Forceful 23 Super Strength Finishing Spray, which is a firm hair spray. Have you ever had a beret phase? No, a lot of times when I create characters, they’re things I wouldn’t have the confidence to wear! A baseball cap is as far as I’ll go. When did you first meet Marc? Back in ’96 or ’97—I’d looked up to Marc when I was still in England and he was beginning to make a name for himself in New York. It’s so nice to meet people you look up to! We’re a similar age, but Marc is a great teacher to me. He has such an eye, he’s a stickler for detail, and he pushes you to push your own craft. He’s a great talent.
Giovanna Battaglia
Hanneli Mustaparta
Standout Eyes To complement the Moroccaninspired looks on the Baja East runway, Maybelline New York makeup artist Yadim created a beauty look focused on the eyes. He used The NUDES Palette to apply a taupe shadow on and above the brows, and then applied bronze and gold shadows. He finished with Baby Lips Lip Balm in Quenched to give a natural finish. bfanyc.com (12); getty images (2); patrickmcmullan.com (4); firstview
OVER 1OOO EXCLUSIVES • OVER 1OO DESIGNERS • 1 STORE
From left to right: Ted Baker London botanical-print dress, Giuseppe Zanotti sandals • Clover Canyon leaf-print dress, Michael Michael Kors sandals • Amanda Uprichard maxi dress, Marc by Marc Jacobs bag • Rebecca Minkoff shirt dress and sandals • Hudson skinny jean • and hundreds more
IN STORES MARCH 1ST BLOOMINGDALES.COM/100PERCENT
BROADWAY BABY, PART 1! With Joan Kors
Where do you stay in New York? The Algonquin Hotel. I’ve stayed in the same room all these years. Matilda, the cat who lives there, is my cat away from home. Do they still do cabaret shows at The Algonquin? No. I used to take Michael there all the time. He loved it. It’s a shame. Are you into theater as much as he is? I am! My favorite show was when my friend Betty Grable opened in Hello, Dolly! I was in heaven. She was fabulous. The first show that I took Michael to was Annie Get Your Gun with Ethel Merman.
MICHAEL KORS
With Michael Kors You had every major model on this runway! How involved are you in the production? Down to the last detail. If I didn’t do this, I would for sure be a Broadway impresario. I wouldn’t direct— I’d produce. I love putting all the pieces of the puzzle together. This is storytelling. Some of these girls are brilliant actresses. What are you looking forward to seeing on Broadway? Into the Woods. I saw the original production and Ioved the movie. It’s a brilliant piece of work.
With Karlie Kloss How did it feel to sit front row at the Oscar de la Renta show? It was the first time in my career that I had not walked in an Oscar show—I usually walked Oscar out at the end. It was very emotional. I was honored that Peter Copping asked me to see the show and sit with Anna, Annette, and Taylor [Swift]. It was a different perspective—I prefer to be on the runway. Good thing you’re back on Michael’s runway! Closing a show is such an honor. FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
front row
Fix
Tiffany Hwang
BROADWAY BABY, PART 2!
RUNWAY DOMINANCE!
z z Bu
the
SCENE
Allison Williams
☛ Killer show from Michael Kors at Spring Studios, with tutto the top models and a front row featuring the splendid Kate Hudson and Allison Williams. ☛ Naeem Khan celebrated his 10th year on the runway with a 46-lookstrong showing at Lincoln Center.
heard
☛ “I ate corned beef sandwiches, which reminded me of my childhood. I said I would never eat it again, but it was nice. I also had salmon. It was a great evening. Woody Allen didn’t come over and say hello, but Ralph Kate Hudson did!”—Suzy Menkes on her Tuesday-night dinner at Polo Bar ☛ “Even though I am not in charge and haven’t run this for the past five years, it’s clearly the end of an era, and I want to thank from the bottom of my heart all the vendors and people who have worked tirelessly here, many of whom have worked in the Tents for over 20 years. The Tent guys, the riggers, the security teams…they really are a family, and they’re the ones who really make Fashion Week happen. I wish everybody luck in the next incarnation, and I hope all these worker bees will continue to be a part of it.”—Fern Mallis at Bibhu Mohapatra.
SPLITTING TIME!
CONSTRUCTION ZONE!
What’s your setup like in Miami? We’re going to build our design studios there on the Miami River, not in South Beach. We’re working with the government. I’ll be the first designer there. We’re going to have 50,000 square feet on the river with my own docks where I can have my boats. I can play polo and come to work!
You trained as an architect. What’s harder to design: a building or a dress? I prefer a dress! My dresses are very architectural. I like designing buildings as a hobby. Do you still do architectural sketching for fun these days? I designed my house! I’ve also designed some boutiques, like the Delpozo store in Madrid, for example. I also designed my country house. Fave building in NYC? The Chrysler building!
With Naeem Khan
With Delpozo’s Josep Font
NAEEM KHAN
Editor in Chief, CEO
Brandusa Niro Guillaume Bruneau Creative Director Peter Davis Group Executive Editor
Eddie Roche Deputy Editor
Managing Editor Tangie Silva Editor at Large Ashley Baker Features Editor Alexandra Ilyashov Fashion News Editor Paige Reddinger Writer/Reporter Dena Silver Art Director Teresa Platt Contributing Photographer Giorgio Niro Contributing Photo Editor Jessica Athanasiou-Piork Contributing Copy Editor Joseph Manghise Contributing Imaging Director George Maier Contributing Imaging Specialist Mihai Simion President, Publisher Paul Turcotte Account Directors Mark Tevis, Chloe Worden Trade Publications Director Mindy Dorf Outside offices: Advertising Sales & Special Projects Haralux, Lottie Oakley Los Angeles Gypset & Associates, Dayna Zegarelli Contributing Marketing Director Stephen McCarthy Publishing Coordinator Piero Bellizzi Digital Director Daniel Chivu Manufacturing Operations Michael Esposito, Amy Taylor
To advertise, call (212) 467-5785 Or e-mail: turcotte@dailyfrontrow.com getty images the official photo agency of The daily front row
The Daily Front Row is a Daily Front Row Inc. publication. Copyright 2015. All rights reserved. Reproduction without permission is strictly prohibited. Requests for reprints must be submitted in writing to: The Daily, Attn: Tangie Silva, 135 West 50th Street, 4th Floor, New York, NY 10020.
LA BELLE FLORIDE!
With Ranjana Khan How’s life in Florida? I paddle board in the morning, and do flying yoga. You don’t miss Manhattan? Not one bit. What are you doing there? I’m commissioning graffiti artists to do pieces for me. It’s the street meets haute couture.
On the cover: bfanyc.com (2); getty images (13)
Francisco Costa and Ella Richards in Calvin Klein Collection photographed by Giorgio Niro.
Something fully fabulouS is happening...
runway
Fall 2015
michael
kors Thirties silhouettes reigned supreme on Kors’ runway, and the effect was positively luxe. The furs! The capes! Flashes of gold! The sophisticated color palette of camel, gray, and navy were the best of Kors, as was this absolutely stellar collection.
fa s h i o n w e e k d a i l y. c o m
FIRSTVIEW
runway
Fall 2015
rodarte Birds and disco? The Mulleavy sisters are known for their unusual influences (Star Wars, anyone?), and in this case, their starting points led them somewhere very cool indeed. A feathery tiered boho gown really took flight, while the striped sequined numbers nodded to another scene entirely. Time to spread your wings and hit the club, chéris.
vera
Wang
No frills! Save for a sprinkling of floral embellishments, Vera Wang’s Fall collection was solidly black and white. It was all about slouchy monochromatic downtown cool—even the A-line micro mini dresses had an ease to them. And those boots? J’adore! All perfect for pounding that NYC pavement.
GETTY IMAGES
H C T WA E V I IT L
e v i l / m .co k e e w n o i h s a mbf
/ 5 1 0 2 W F/ 9 1 — 2 1 / 2 0 W F B #M
mbfashionweek
BEST Dresses
FRANCISCO FOR ALL! Have you been itching to get your hands on the red-carpet numbers that looked so splendid on Jennifer, Gwyneth, and Naomi? Apparently so, because Calvin Klein Collection is introducing an exclusive eveningwear collection of its most iconic pieces at the brand’s Madison Avenue boutique. Creative director Francisco Costa shares what’s literally in store. BY EDDIE ROCHE PHOTOGRAPHY BY GIORGIO NIRO FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
Details on the eveningwear collection, please! It’s long overdue. We’ve been dressing celebrities for so long, but we felt like we never capitalized on the great work that we do. This is the perfect moment. The new line is comprised of more than 20 women’s ready-to-wear pieces, including a selection of evening separates, iconic cocktail and slip dresses, and new interpretations of gowns that were previously custommade for celebrity red-carpet appearances. Are the dresses available in the store the same looks that once appeared on the carpet? There are slight but minimal changes. We want to make these looks very special, and not just knock off a dress that an actress wore. We also have pieces at a more accessible price point, and the fabric is a little more of the ready-to-wear variety. What’s the general aesthetic? So much of what we do is very classic. These are very sexy and beautiful dresses. That’s the difference when you see something from us, and something from other houses. We have a cut that is so flattering and gorgeous. You will see a lot of color and crepe dresses. Is the iconic look you created for Jennifer Lawrence at the 2011 Oscars included? Yes! That’s quintessential Calvin. It’s very sporty in a way. This is a variation of the custom Calvin Klein Collection silk crepe tank dress that she wore. I’ll never forget that moment when she wore that, because it was so surprising for all of us. There’s also another version of a Jennifer Lawrence dress— forest silk, deep-V pleated dress from the Pre-Fall 2012 collection—that she wore to a screening of The Hunger Games. We also have a version of Gwyneth Paltrow’s 2011 Oscars dress—very sleek, with gold sequins. There’s also a version of the modern beaded cap-sleeve dress that actress Naomi Watts wore to the 86th Oscars. You’re also redoing the dressing rooms at your Madison Avenue store? Yes, they look beautiful. The mezzanine floor has been redesigned with a larger dressing space to better accommodate our client, whether she’s shopping alone or with friends. The rooms were already very private, but the whole area has been converted into something more inviting, selective, and comfortable. We cater to that woman and make sure she is taken care of. Will this line expand beyond Madison? Hopefully, yes! We have a great following, but at this time, the line is exclusive to our flagship store. When do stylists start the Oscar conversation with you? We do sketches and have discussions as early as November, but sometimes, it’s even closer to the awards. Dresses as involved as these take time. With Naomi Watts, we started in advance, and it was such an incredible piece of work. How do you partner with these celebrities? It’s organic—we have relationships with so many great and talented women. We dress nominees, as well as presenters and guests—we obviously don’t exclude. What’s the process like? The stylists have a say. I met with an actress in L.A. in October and got to know her, so the relationship makes it feel less formal. You give feedback and then you follow up with their stylists and do the sketches and fittings. I’m sure some houses will have 20 gowns sitting in a hotel room at the last minute, and they will
show stylists what they have. Sometimes that works; sometimes it doesn’t. To work with somebody ahead of time gives you a little more security and more focus to make it special. Do you go to L.A. for the Oscars? Occasionally. It’s so fun. When we dressed Gwyneth and Jennifer, I was in Milan. I really didn’t know whether they were going to wear the dresses—maybe they would have felt slightly different in that moment due to weather or other circumstances. We’ve all heard stories of people changing in the car! The dresses get more press than the Oscars now, which is fantastic. It’s a huge chunk of the news. Calvin Klein himself started the whole trend years ago. When did you start working on your Fall collection? Officially in October, but I already have inspiration for next Spring and Resort seasons. It’s quite fast—we now have eight deliveries a year, whereas in the past, we had just two collections a year. Your work is often compared to architecture. I’m a frustrated architect. When you make clothes, sometimes we don’t understand that it is a very
“
I’m a frustrated architect. When you make clothes, sometimes we don’t understand that it is a very technical process.”
Naomi Watts, Jennifer Lawrence, and Lupita Nyong’o in Calvin Klein Collection
technical process. The pattern is just as important— I take great pride in working with skilled people. It’s a process in which you learn and evolve, but they are really responsible for it. What kind of building do you live in? Funny enough, I live in a very classic environment. When I bought my home, I redid every single inch of it. I designed all the knobs and everything. It’s quite controlled. It’s not minimal, but it’s edited. In the country, we live in a very formal house, a brick Georgian home. I’d like to go somewhere else in New York for the sake of change, or build my own house in the country somewhere. That’s actually the goal. I know exactly how it will look. Details? I have this vision of a very linear, very long house that will be two stories high and located on a hill. It has two back-to-back fireplaces, one facing water and one facing the mountains, so you have a summer view and a winter view. You worked for Oscar de la Renta in the beginning of your career. What are your memories? He had a very funny sense of humor—very dry, but very warm. Being surrounded by his environment taught me a lot. His lifestyle was incredible; everything was A+. The way he traveled, the way he entertained… everything was on a different scale. What did he teach you? I never knew color. I’m from the coast of Brazil where people experience a lot of that exuberance, but I was very black and white and gray. I started to understand color from him. You turned 50 last year. How did you deal? I’m still dealing with it. I wanted to do a huge party, and then I decided not to. I feel a little more secure and comfortable with my mind now. There is something about turning 50 that gives you some sort of quietness, a sense of security, which is great. I just wish I could exercise more, that’s all. How’d you celebrate? A friend of mine had a little party at her apartment, which was lovely. I kept myself out of it, but my partner organized it with her. I never, ever celebrate birthdays. I thought, “Why should I do it? There’s no difference.” All of a sudden, we did it, and it was great! Is Lara Stone still your girl? Always. She’s so iconic. She started her career with us and is now a pure celebration of women. She embodies it all. Most importantly, she’s at a very happy moment in her life, and it shows. It’s so lovely that she has a family and she’s happy. She’s gorgeous, and she’s not apologetic about that. How does the Calvin brand always know who the next big thing is? In our heritage are Kate Moss and Christy Turlington. Lara Stone and Karlie Kloss started with us, and we continue that culture. Natalia [Vodianova] had a few jobs before she became our face, but she’s wonderful. We now have Ella [Richards], who we are shooting our lookbook with. She’s so young, and she will go far. She’s grown so much taller since we first used her— she’s like another person. It’s nice seeing that evolution. Do you have a good eye for seeing new talent? I’m surrounded by great people. We have an amazing casting director who has a great vision. That’s the greatest thing about being in this house—spotting new talent is so much a part of the DNA. GETTY IMAGES (3)
BACKSTAGE Report
by Maybelline New York
It was another standout season for Maybelline New York, which was behind the memorable beauty looks at 17 shows (and counting). Using the freshest products in their toolkits, the brand’s makeup artists concocted several major trends that ensure the runways are as newsmaking for beauty as they are for fashion.
BEST
In Beauty
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
CHROMAT
c o u r t e s y M A Y B E L L I N E N E W YOR K
BACKSTAGE Report
by Maybelline New York
CUSHNIE ET OCHS
Emerald Eyes
DKNY
c o u r t e s y M A Y B E L L I N E N E W YOR K ; f i r s t v i e w; g e t t y imag e s
CHIC Beauty Report BACKSTAGE
Maybelline New York bybyMaybelline New York
ISA ARFEN
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
Flushed Lips
WES GORDON
Lacoste CUSHNIE ET OCHS
suno
MARA HOFFMAN c o u r t e s y M A Y B E L L I N E N E W YOR K ; f i r s t v i e w ( 2) ; g e t t y imag e s
BACKSTAGE Report
by Maybelline New York
JONATHAN SIMKHAI
Flawless Skin FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
Statement Brows
PUBLIC SCHOOL
f i r s t v i e w ( 2) ; g e t t y imag e s
LOOK Closer
A Wild Vision
With a dash of bohemian luxury, a sprinkling of witty humor, and a whole lot of feminine charm, Wildfox has become one of the most reliable purveyors of California casual style. And would any SoCal girl be caught dead without a pair of killer shades? Of course not! That’s why Wildfox Sun's designer, Benjamin Montoya, had the vision to make optics that appeal on a global scale. BY DENA SILVER When did Wildfox get into the sunglasses game? Our first collection launched in 2012. I have 20 years of experience in the eyewear industry, including my own collection called Benjamin Eyewear, which is how Jimmy Sommers, the CEO of Wildfox, knew about me. One day he stopped by one of my stores and asked me to create the collection for Wildfox. The rest is history! What mission were you tasked with when creating this category? Jimmy is really big on quality, and it’s the bottom line for every product we sell. He was totally behind the idea that if we were to launch a new category, we had to do it the right way. He wanted me to establish a valid category, and not just another licensed sunglass collection. It was also important to create a product that was super fun, but it still had to be something we all respect and love. What are some signatures of Wildfox shades? All of our classic frames feature chunky acetate, which people have attributed to our collection. Like our Bel Air frame, a classic, round ’60s acetate frame with a bit of writing on it, which has sold more than we ever thought it would. When we created that design we thought we were being crazy, but at this point, we can’t even remove it from our collection because people love it so much. Another is the Classic Fox, which has this heavy, late ’80s–looking frame. You know how Ray-Ban has the Wayfarer, which has become iconic for the brand? That’s what the Classic Fox is for us. Who are some celebs that have been spotted in Wildfox shades? Kendall Jenner, Alessandra Ambrosio, Sean Lennon, Olivia Munn, Beyoncé, and Rihanna. Is Sean Lennon the only guy to rock Wildfox Sun? We actually have a lot of guys who wear our frames. We’ve been able to sell the Classic Fox to so many guys, it’s crazy. How important is fit? It’s really important. Is the frame resting directly on a person’s cheek? Is the nose area sitting properly? Are the sides long enough to reach over the ears? Is the color right for the customer? A lot of our frames come in eight to 10 color ways because we think it’s important FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
for our customer to explore a palette of our colors. How closely do you align your collections with the inspiration of the ready-to-wear design team? I work with [Wildfox co-founder] Kim [Gordon] mostly, because she has a lot of the overall design ideas. There are always a few key pieces I make each season that are directly based on her inspiration, and we work side by side to translate that into the glasses. Do you wear sunglasses in the office? Everyone at Wildfox is always trying them on. We often walk around and make sure everyone in the office loves the designs we’re working on. It’s just one way we can get a little sense of what people like and what they don’t. What’s your take on wearing shades in the winter? My ultimate mission is to take the seasonality out of sunglasses. If people are wearing sunglasses during the winter in London, then they should be wearing them in New York. People look great wearing sunglasses in the winter. Do you collect sunnies? I’ve been collecting them since the ’90s and now there are probably a couple thousand pieces in my collection. I have frames that range from the 1920s to the ’80s, including some of the most iconic frames ever produced. It’s kind of like an archive that I can go back to and actually wear. Plus, looking at the vintage stuff gives me inspiration. Wow! How do you store them all? It’s a bit of a problem! I try to organize them, but most of them are in flat files. What was the first pair of vintage shades you picked up? They were a pair of vintage Vuarnet sunglasses. I remember I bought them at a Vans Pro Shop, back in the day. They cost like $60, which at the time seemed like so much money to me! Any iconic shades in your collection? I have some 1950s horn-rim glasses and 1970s Elvis-style glasses, with the heavy metal frames. My Persols from the ’50s are very Steve McQueen–looking, and I also have plenty of oversize sunglasses from the ’70s. What’s the one place you think is unacceptable to wear sunglasses? I think it’s really odd to see someone wearing sunglasses in a restaurant. I just don’t like that! ALL PHOTOS COURTESY
COUTURE, Bonjour! Dominating the
Formal
Game
Sherri Hill, a longtime Jovani alum, broke out on her own with an eponymous line in 2009. The collection made its NYFW debut in 2011, with Kendall Jenner (in her very first catwalk appearance) and Carmen Dell’Orefice on the runway. Hill filled us in on how she got into the eveningwear game, what it’s like running a family business, and her upcoming bridal foray.
Sherri Hill Spring 2015
How did your eponymous line come about? I worked with other designers over the years and appreciated the experience very much, but it came time for me to branch out on my own, so my family opened our company six years ago. Frankly, we didn’t have amazing expectations, but we were thrilled by the response. We got very lucky that various retailers picked up on our line—and then because of social media, girls started going to stores requesting our collection. Then buyers who hadn’t originally bought our line all jumped on board. What’s it like working with your family? It’s been wonderful. My son runs our company. My husband was an attorney for many, many years and he quit his career to join—he cleans up all of our messes. [Laughs] I have another son and a daughter who also work with us in a lot of capacities. I’m very fortunate, because I get to see my children every day of the week. When you were studying fashion at the University of Oklahoma, were you set on designing formal frocks? I accidentally stumbled into it. A lot of young designers are attracted to it because you can be extremely creative. How would you describe your designs? Our main focus is still eveningwear, and we do everything from prom to high-end designer looks. It’s like how other companies have diffusion lines—ours are just Kendall Jenner walking Sherri all under one label. As a small Hill’s Spring 2012 runway company, we were afraid that if we put too many [diffusion] labels out there, we wouldn’t be as effective. What’s your design process like? A little bit of everything. Sometimes it’s just pure panic about putting a whole collection together! Which celebs have donned Sherri Hill? Selena Gomez, the Kardashian family—primarily Kendall and Kylie [Jenner], and Bella Thorne. We’re actually doing a collection with Bella, which will launch shortly. She’s been a wonderful person to work with. We’re also doing a collection for our prom line with Sadie Robertson from Duck Dynasty. Kendall made her catwalk debut in your show. Thoughts on her modeling ascent? I’m excited for her! To see a girl her age able to handle all she’s doing right now? I just think, “You go, girl!” She modeled with us early on—I remember when she was self-conscious and shy, and it’s been fun to see her blossom. What is Sherri Hill’s signature? What I hear from our buyers and customers
is that they love the construction. When pieces are on camera, every detail shows, so the fit has to be impeccable. We can make a woman’s body look fabulous! I was fortunate enough to work with some couture pattern makers and Hollywood costume designers earlier in my career, and I learned a lot from that. How long have you been showing at NYFW? This is our fourth year! What’s your go-to eveningwear style? Sherri Hill Something fairly simple—a slim silhouette in a subdued color. What was your own prom like? I’m from a very tiny, conservative Southern town— believe it or not, the local churches didn’t allow a prom in our town. So I sort of had a prom, but it wasn’t a big thing. I made my own dress—it was ivory and very simple. Do you get feedback from customers? We do, and it’s quite heartwarming. The best is when girls who’ve worn our designs for years, call or e-mail asking if I can possibly do their wedding gown. We realized we’re really high up on Google searches for bridal, and we didn’t even do bridal, so we’re launching our first bridal collection next month. It’s an easy expansion for us, but a whole different set of buyers and retailers. We’re being very careful about which [retail] outlets we go to; we’re keeping it very limited. Is bridal design a really different endeavor? No. You still focus on making the girl beautiful on the most important day of her life! You’ve also designed Miss America, Miss USA, and Miss Universe dresses, right? Yes, we do a lot of that—it almost happened by accident. Now we do a lot of custom designs for those girls, or they buy looks from our higherpriced collections. It’s almost like costuming— everything has to look great on stage and on camera. Have you considered doing more casual collections? The formal pieces are very full-time for me, but as our company expands, of course we’re open to bringing in other designers to do that sort of thing. You are in 800 stores and over 30 countries. How do you plan to expand next? We definitely plan to expand more internationally. Our growth has been through media and word of mouth. We don’t have sales reps—people just come to us. We’re pretty strong in the Middle East, and we’re doing well in Russia, and also in some European countries, but we have to do a lot of research and investigation on where exactly we belong in other European countries. What’s it like when you’re in town for NYFW? I stay at the The Plaza all week, which is where we do our show. I just love it! The people there are so kind and hospitable; it’s a nice home away from home. G E T T Y i m age s (4)
#BIZ WITH
STYLE “Berkeley College is a perfect fit. I am so happy here. My professors have really sparked my creativity and provided me with a deep understanding of current fashion and business trends. As a blogger focusing on the Fashion Industry, I also learned how social media can be used as a powerful marketing and communication tool. I know I am prepared for my career because of what I am learning here at Berkeley.� Raquel Rivera Berkeley College Fashion Blogger
Call 800-446-5400 ext. BFF, visit BerkeleyCollege.edu/Fashion or email info@BerkeleyCollege.edu
Find us @BerkeleyCollege and #BizWithStyle
Berkeley College reserves the right to add, discontinue, or modify its programs and policies at any time. Modifications subsequent to the original publication of this information may not be reflected here. For the most up-to-date information, please visit BerkeleyCollege.edu. For more information about Berkeley College graduation rates, the median debt of students who completed programs, and other important disclosures, please visit BerkeleyCollege.edu/disclosures. P4597.8.2014
Are YOU on the List?
who’s Showing! While London might seem like the next stop for the fashion set, there’s one more show to check out in New York: Coterie! So, what are the top brands this season? BY DENA SILVER
JOHN PAUL ATAKER
John Paul Ataker
BADGLEY MISCHKA OUTERWEAR
Numan Ataker, Creative Director, Booth: #9130 How did you get your start? “John Paul Ataker started out with a tiny tailor shop in Istanbul in the ’70s.”
ZYNNI CASHMERE
The Globe Showroom
Jeffrey Cayer, Co-Founder, Booth: #4620 What are you looking forward to at Coterie? “I always look forward to seeing familiar faces that come to Coterie from out of state. It’s great to reconnect with people you’ve known for years. And it’s always great to meet new buyers from across the country. Coterie is great for connecting and reconnecting.”
ashley B
Sun Choi, Creative Director, Booth: #4627 Who’s the latest celeb to wear ashley B? “Kendall Jenner has been spotted wearing ashley B, most recently while out with Justin Bieber. Another time she wore our coat in the adorable LOVE advent video with Cara Delevingne.” THE GloBe Showroom
Badgley Mischka Outerwear
Mark Badgley and James Mischka, Designers, Booth: #2240 What type of jackets are chic to wear to an evening event? “It depends on the outfit, but overall simple and classic shapes always work. Personally, we like the idea of wearing a longer tailored coat with a feminine dress underneath.”
Zynni Cashmere
Qing Hua, Designer, Booth: #609 What’s new for Fall 2015? “I have developed a pyramid-structured lifestyle collection with more than 100 pieces. In terms of design elements, I focus more attention on delicate and exquisite knitting patterns.”
Pamella, Pamella Roland
Pamella DeVos, Designer and President, Booth: #9202 What are you most excited about for the year to come? “There is so much happening in 2015. My daughter Cassandra’s wedding will be in September, one week after my next fashion show, which will be the first fashion event held in the new Whitney Museum.” ASHLEY B FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
PAMELLA, PAMELLA ROLAND
SARAH PACINI
Sarah Pacini
RONEN CHEN
Naila Jaffer, Artistic Director, Booth: #1925 Is there anything new this season? “We’re introducing innovative fabrics in a variety of textures and finishes: crisp, coated, or brilliant, offered in innovative mixes for a look that is resolutely feminine.”
ERE
Les 100 Ciels
Stephanie Beck, Senior Designer, Booth: #6924 What’s your favorite fashion memory of all time? “Having my designs selected by Alexander McQueen and Antonio Berardi to represent the Smirnoff International Fashion Awards.”
Josie Natori
Josie Natori, CEO and Founder, Booth: #2740 What’s your favorite fall accessory? “My favorites are any and all layering pieces such as vests, boleros, capes, and ponchos. Basically, anything that can become a topper and added onto an outfit.” LES 100 CIELS
Ronen Chen
Ronen Chen, Designer and Owner, Booths: #128, #228 What are you most excited about for 2015? “We will be launching a new capsule collection called Limited, which we introduced in a concept store in Tel Aviv four months ago. It was so positively received by customers and press that we’ll be showing the new line in a separate booth at Coterie.”
Gorski Furs
Gorski Furs
Leonard Gorski, President, Booth: #9907 What’s your favorite part about designing? “I enjoy working closely with my team in Montreal, as well as my longtime collaborators in Italy. My team helps me shape, perfect, and translate my vision into what customers will wear around the world.”
Raw+
Ryuichiro Shimazaki, Designer, Booth: #5244 What’s new for Fall 2015? “Leather-faced fabrics with wool jersey and mouton.”
JOSIE NATORI
RAW+
ALL PHOTOS COURTESY
RUDSAK
Rudsak
Evik Asatoorian, Founder and Designer, Booth: #6032 What do you have planned for the year
ROCK ’N KARMA
ahead? “Rudsak is expanding and will be opening six new boutiques across Canada in 2015!”
Repeat Cashmere
Noemie Tugendhaft, Creative Director, Booth: #215 Who’s your muse? “Our muse continues to be supermodel Doutzen Kroes. We’ve been lucky enough to work with her over the past six seasons as the face of Repeat; she perfectly embodies what our collection represents.”
iiJIN
Christina Minasian, Women’s Creative Director, Booth: #7435 Tell us a fun fact about your brand! “The word iiJin means precious in Korean.”
Rock ’N Karma
REPEAT CASHMERE
Naomi Shapiro, Designer, Booth: #6646 What’s your favorite part about designing for the Fall/Winter season? “I love the edgy, glamorous rock style with the dark fall palettes. The Fall/Winter season is the perfect time to play it up!”
GORSKI APRÈS-SKI
Gorski Après-Ski
Lauren Gorski, President, Booth: #9907 What’s your trademark? “Our collections are designed to be pretty lightweight but warm and wearable slope side, as well as fashionably relevant during day or night.”
Native Stranger
David Lim, Creative Director, Booth: #2114 What has been the biggest moment for your brand to date? “Planning our first retail store, which will open in New York City in March.”
IIJIN FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
NATIVE STRANGER
Pologeorgis Furs
Design Team, Booth: #2440 Do you have any upcoming designer partnerships? “Pologeorgis partners with a select group of top-tier designers each season. We’re very excited to be partnering with fashion wunderkind Wes Gordon this season.”
Planet
Lauren Grossman, Designer, Booth: #10004 Who’s your muse this season? “Calvin Klein, with his classically chic styles and minimalist approach.”
Sam & Lavi
Lavi Mirzak, Creative Director, Booth: #4521 What’s new for Fall 2015? “Sam & Lavi has morphed into a full collection offering sweater knits, outerwear, and heavier wools blended with wovens for a bespoke aesthetic.” POLOGEORGIS FURS
Badgley Mischka Accessories
Mark Badgley and James Mischka, Designers, Booth: #2240 What’s one of the most glamorous accessories you offer? “This season we’re introducing a collection of fur collars, hats, and scarves made of fox, mink, and rex rabbit. They’re all extremely glamorous.”
MAGASCHONI
Magaschoni
Jill Feigen and Torie Greenberg, Designers, Booth: #2533 What’s new for Fall? “Our fabulous new accessories, expanded menswear line, and our new silk separates.”
Mart
Martha Fogarty, Designer and Founder, Booth: #4147 What’s your favorite part of the design process? “I come from a fine art background, so my favorite part is the actual design, sitting and sketching on the figure. For me, this is where the collection really comes together.”
Gruppo Mattei USA
planet
Michela Petrali, President, Booth: #2920 What are you most excited about for the year to come? “It will be our year! Finally we have our own showroom at 501 Madison Avenue! We would like to grow through brand cooperation, events, and trunk shows.”
MART
Badgley Mischka Accessories
SAM & LAVI
Gruppo MATTEI USA
ALL PHOTOS COURTESY
O Marché
Bruno Peutat, Founder, Booth: #220 What’s new at the showroom? “We’ve hired a new sales executive, Alex, who’s with us at Coterie. Come say hi!”
Caterina Leman
Malgorzata Bulikowska, Creative Director, Booth: #817 What are you most looking forward to this year? “The most exciting event this year is our participation for the first time at Coterie! This will be our American debut, and I have created a collection tailored especially for this launch.”
Mystique
Yamin Levy, Designer, Booth: #3530 How does Mystique give back to its community? “Mystique supports a women’s hospital in Indonesia called Bumi Sehat. We donate materials such as leather and shoes to the hospital. We also look after the environment by recycling the materials we use.”
O MARCHÉ
Suss Design
Design Team, Booth: #4625 Who’s your muse this season? “The muse of this season is Jane Birkin meets the ’60s mod movement.”
WOODEN SHIPS BY PAOLA BUENDÍA
Indigenous DESIGNS
Wooden Ships by Paola BuendÍa
Paola Buendía, Designer and Co-Owner, Booth: #2143 How will this year at Coterie be different from past years? “I’m excited about our new booth layout, designed to give maximum exposure to both our sweaters and accessories.”
Indigenous Designs
Britta Reynolds, Designer, Booth: #1946 What’s your favorite part about designing for the Fall/Winter season? “Working with our luxurious fluffed royal alpaca and handspun yarns. They’re delicious.”
Amy Matto
Amy Matto, Designer, Booth: #2035 What’s new for Fall 2015? “Everything is new! We have new silhouettes, new bodies, and luxe textures!”
CATERINA LEMAN
suss design
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
MYSTIQUE
Amy Matto
JOCELYN
Jocelyn
Jocelyn Gordon, Creative Director, Booth: #2443 What’s your favorite part about designing for the Fall/Winter season? “I love all the fabulous textures of fur and thinking about what everybody will want to wear when it’s snowing—as well as what they will want to snuggle in!”
Shoshanna
Shoshanna Gruss, Founder and Creative Director, Booth: #2121 How will this year at Coterie be different from past years? “Each season at Coterie is different in its own unique way. There are always new and exciting stores and buyers to connect with, and it’s the place where I want my line to debut.”
Yoga Jeans
Eric Wazana, Designer and Founder, Booth: #5043 Aside from yoga, which other activities can be done in Yoga Jeans? “The name Yoga Jeans actually comes from the mentality behind yoga—being comfortable in your skin, exuding confidence, and being at peace with yourself.” SHOSHANNA
AUTUMN CASHMERE
Ipanema
Schana Cenci Marin, Lead Designer, Booth: #8031 How will this year at Coterie be different from past years? “If we could predict the future we’d be retired by now! We just pray that there won’t be a blizzard.”
Autumn Cashmere
Katherine Carpenter, Women’s Design Director, Booth: #5222 Are there any new cashmere techniques that are part of your collection this season? “We’re introducing new novelty cashmere textured yarns, as well as dip dying chunky hand-knits. There are also more structured knits.”
Han Ahn Soon
Han Ahn Soon, Designer, Booth: #4947 What are you most excited about for 2015? “To experience New York Fashion Week as a brand.”
Julie Vos
Julie Lindsey, CEO and Creative Director, Booth: #4047 What’s your trademark? “The beautiful finish, which is the burnished gold patina, of our pieces. It’s sophisticated, expensive-looking, and original.”
Yoga Jeans
IPANEMA
HAN AHN SOON Julie Vos
ALL PHOTOS COURTESY
r i o v e R u A
chic
Week!
s t e fa n i a c u r t o ( 1 1 ) ; v i ta l ag i b a l ow ( 3) ; GETT Y i m ag e s ( 3) ; b fa n yc . c o m