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School’s In Session! Wondering how the industry’s preeminent training grounds are prepping the Donnas, Marcs, and Michaels of tomorrow? The decision-makers at three of the city’s top design schools explain! BY MARIA DENARDO
The 411 on FIT
The SCOOP on LIM
With Joanne Arbuckle, dean of the School of Art & Design
With Christopher J. Cyphers, executive vice president
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hat’s new at the Institute? Our annual Future of Fashion show is happening again this season, and while the event isn’t new, it has reached a new level thanks to the support of Calvin Klein, Inc. During Fashion Week, we have FIT students at two runway shows—the Supima Design Competition and ELLE’s FASHION | NEXT. Who represents the school during MBFW? I attend the collections alongside Valerie Steele and Patricia Mears from The Museum at FIT. What makes FIT unique? We’ve always been very good at the ‘doing.’ We lead art and design schools in providing the best technical education, but that’s not all we do. We’re certainly leaders in design development. Calvin Klein, Inc. doesn’t give you $2 million for a fashion show unless they believe you’re going to be meeting their expectations. Whenever we call Norma Kamali, she’s here, even if it’s just to look at curriculum. What is really challenging your students today? Understanding that fashion is a global business. We’re fortunate that we have alliances around the world, including our programs in Florence and Milan. What’s one thing every FIT student knows when they graduate? We make sure every student is well-rounded. They’re not going to be head designer right out of college, so we make sure that they’ll be successful so they can move on and be the next Calvin. Who do your students look up to? Emerging designers who have made it! Which FIT grads are slated to be the next “It” designers? Jolie Mittleman, who’s currently interning in Milan at Mantero, and Kellie Lamkin, who designs in New York and Maine under the name Luciana Grimaldi. Jusil Carroll is really savvy and hard working, as well. FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
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ongrats on your new job! What new additions can we expect at LIM? We’re launching a new graduate program in January in retail management and fashion merchandising. It’s a 30-credit, one-year Master of Professional Studies. Classes will be offered online and on campus at night to accommodate people with day jobs. It’s really designed for mid-career professionals who don’t have an undergrad degree or background in fashion. We offer a handful of online classes now, but this is our first full online program. We’re also adding a lot to our existing programs. Such as? Home fashions to our fashion merchandising major for fall 2013. I came from The New York School of Interior Design, so that is of particular interest to me. In the classroom, we’re piloting Apple products through a new Mac computer lab and through iPads, so teachers and students can access Blackboard. I’m a Mac guy. I can’t live without mine! What are your students concerned about lately? The economy has been a challenge, although that’s rebounding. One of the things we do best is help students find jobs—not folding t-shirts at the Gap, but setting them up with careers as buyers or getting them opportunities in corporate training programs. What is LIM’s overall approach? It’s decidedly experiential, although there’s a place for theory, too. We focus on the business side of fashion. The student who is strictly interested in fashion design would most likely not end up at LIM. Who are some of your illustrious alums? Doug Jakubowski, the chief merchandising officer at Perry Ellis; Neva Hall, the executive vice president of special retail stores at Neiman Marcus; Kathy Nedorostek, the president of U.S. wholesale and global licensing of Coach; and Luisa Herrera, the senior vice president of production and merchandise planning at John Varvatos.
The DISH from PRATT With Jennifer Minniti, chair of the Fashion Design Department
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ow is Pratt unique? Since we’re grounded in liberal arts, there are always discussions around fashion as it pertains to the social and political landscape. We’re trying to prepare students to be more socially responsible in the industry. What are your day-to-day duties? I’m in between the upper echelon of the administration and the faculty and students. We’re always going back and forth between the mission of the school and the vision of the department, which don’t always live in harmony. On a daily scale, I have an open-door policy to talk about everything from scheduling to goals. I also walk the studio floor as much as possible. What obstacles are your students facing? There’s been a lack of imagination from the students— maybe it has to do with growing up with the Internet, or having too many scheduled play dates as children. They’re used to being told when and where to do something. They have to fail and be open to mistakes, but the student today fears that. What are professors teaching these days? Many students are not enrolling with a background in craftsmanship or design, so we have to start from the basics. Is Pratt competitive with other fashion schools? My slogan is “collaborative competition,” and everyone is jumping on board. We all have something unique to offer. When you come to New York, we’re all the best. Who are your standout alums? Betsey Johnson and Jeremy Scott. I’m hoping as the program moves forward, we’ll have more entrepreneurs out there! One way we’re able to do that is through the generous gift of the Liz Claiborne Fashion Scholarship through the Liz Claiborne Foundation. We award one student $25,000. Kelsey Parkhouse won last year, and she will be presenting her debut Spring 2013 collection during MBFW. co u rt e s y s u bj e cts / schools