the
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January 2015
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fashion los angeles awards
Starring! gigi hadid jeremy scott italo zucchelli christian louboutin ariel foxman ilaria urbinati ann caruso mazdack rassi hervĂŠ lĂŠger august getty
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JENNIFER ANISTON IS WEARING LANVIN PHOTOGRAPHED BY MICHELANGELO DI BAT TISTA © 2015 Time Inc. All rights reserved. InStyle is a registered trademark of Time Inc.
CHIC Quiz
Ready for your close-up?
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
Take the TEST!
Pool house? Check. Private transcendental chant session with David Lynch? Mais oui! But are you truly one of Hollywood’s fashion cognoscenti? Let’s hope your style intelligence is ready for a workout… Rodarte’s latest collab?
a. A line of area rugs with The Rug Company inspired by 1970s Cali and medieval romance. b. A collection of home scents called Black Hole, inspired by the Star Wars trilogy. c. An NPR-style podcast called “Seriously,” about their love affair with lace. d. A butter-free Parisian cooking show with pal Natalie Portman.
As a kid in Southern California, Rick Owens…
a. Wasn’t allowed to watch TV until he was 16; immersed himself in opera and European literature. b. Made pocket money dressing up outside Mann’s Chinese Theatre as Obi-Wan Kenobi. c. Attended bible-study classes in Malibu led by Dyan Cannon. d. Harbored dreams of launching a fro-yo empire.
Hedi Slimane’s latest photography show, “Sonic,” features…
a. Gritty portraits of icons like David Byrne, Keith Richards, and Lou Reed. b. Selfies with friends like Courtney Love and Lara Stone. c. Billboard-size photographs of overflowing ashtrays and dog food bowls. d. One hundred and one pictures of Olivier Zahm dressed as icons like Jackie Kennedy and Audrey Hepburn.
The Assouline book Young Hollywood is…
a. A coffee table tome featuring shots of PYTs wearing Michael
Kors, shot by Claiborne Swanson Frank. b. A beach read about a frozen-food heiress who discovers Hollywood’s seedy underbelly. c. A visual diary of Quvenzhané Wallis’s outfits while promoting Annie. d. A series of “after” pics from L.A.’s most talented plastic surgeons.
Who first discovered Gigi Hadid?
a. Guess’ Paul Marciano, who cast her in a Baby Guess ad when she was 2. b. Tom Ford, after a fender bender in the Maxfield parking lot. c. Graydon Carter, a major fan of The Real Housewives of Beverly Hills. d. Grace Coddington, while in town shooting a “Cats Who Surf” editorial.
Band of Outsiders’ Scott Sternberg does not collect…
a. Furniture by Brazilian modernist Sergio Rodriguez b. Troll dolls and vintage table linens c. Art inspired by the Old West d. Portraits of Vincent Price
For the most recent premiere of the Hunger Games franchise, Jennifer Lawrence wore…
a. A champagne-colored cocktail gown from Dior’s 2014 Couture collection b. A Celine skirt and a T-shirt emblazoned with Ryan Gosling’s face c. A preview of Beyoncé’s athleisure collection for Topshop d. Vintage Richard Tyler
Instead of walking in the Victoria’s Secret fashion show, Kendall Jenner… a. Walked the runway for Karl
Lagerfeld in his Métiers d’Art collection in Salzburg, Austria. b. Finished her memoir, Selfie Aware. c. Cut an album with Selena Gomez. d. Co-designed a children’s clothing line with sister Kim Kardashian called North by North West.
Mario Testino’s Hollywood Hills home is decorated with…
a. Pieces by L.A. artists Friedrich Kunath and Walead Beshty and Mauritanian leather– stitched straw mats b. A triptych of Warhol-style silk screens of Anna Wintour c. Needlepoint pillows with sayings like “Nothing tastes as good as skinny feels.” d. A disco ball and white leather; color is verboten.
Where are you most likely to spot fashion consultant Katherine Ross and her husband, LACMA chief Michael Govan?
a. The Tower Bar or Mr. Chow’s, because they remind Ross of New York. b. Sweating to Taylor Swift songs at Maha Yoga in Brentwood. c. Waiting in line for artisanal drip coffee at Intelligentsia in Silver Lake. d. Hiking Temescal Canyon with their poodles, Pollack and Koons.
HOW DID YOU FARE? Mostly A’s Haute Hollywood status! Can we hitch a ride in your Tesla to Gia Coppola’s house party? Mostly B’s Lost in Los Feliz. You’ve mastered juicing; now you must master style. Mostly C’s Struggling in Santa Monica. Lululemon just isn’t going to cut it. Mostly D’s Valley victim. Drop that star map and subscribe to The Daily, stat. g e t t y i m a g e s ( 3 ) ; b fa n yc . c o m ( 2 ) ; f i r s t v i e w ; pat r i c k m c m u l l a n . c o m ; a l l ot h e r s c o u r t e s y
letter From the editors
the
front row Editor in Chief, CEO
Brandusa Niro
Lights! Camera!
Chic!
From Dolce & Gabbana’s chicissimo catwalk in Capri to New York Fashion Week’s frenzy of fabulousness to Hollywood’s ultimate runway—the red carpet—The Daily Front Row, fashion’s insider bible, is forever on the scene. The Daily adores the glamour and influence of Hollywood, so we decided to jet to the West Coast to premiere our firstannual Fashion Los Angeles Awards, honoring the style stars who matter the most this very minute—from international enfant terrible Jeremy Scott to the legendary Christian Louboutin to divinely beautiful supermodel of the moment Gigi Hadid, whose glowing visage graces our cover. Inside, the winners reveal their secrets for style dominance. The red carpet is a runway, chéris, and the most chronicled one in the world. During the marvelous madness of awards season, who wore what is just as important as who won what. And The Daily is here to deliver the very hautest moments. Enjoy, collect, and discuss!
Creative Director Guillaume Bruneau Group Executive Editor Peter Davis Deputy Editor Eddie Roche Managing Editor Tangie Silva Editor at Large Ashley Baker Features Editor Alexandra Ilyashov Fashion News Editor Paige Reddinger Contributing Editor Sarah Horne Grose Writer/Reporter Dena Silver Art Director Teresa Platt Contributing Photographer Giorgio Niro Contributing Photo Editor Jessica Athanasiou-Piork Contributing Copy Editor Joseph Manghise Imaging Director George Maier President, Publisher
Paul Turcotte
Account Directors Chloe Worden, Mark Tevis, Mindy Dorf Contributing Marketing Director Stephen McCarthy Publishing Coordinator Piero Bellizzi Digital Director Daniel Chivu Manufacturing Operations Michael Esposito Amy Taylor
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DAILY FRONT ROW, INC. The Daily Front Row is a Daily Front Row Inc. publication. Copyright 2015. All rights reserved. Reproduction without permission is strictly prohibited. Requests for reprints must be submitted in writing to: The Daily, Attn: Tangie Silva, 135 West 50th Street, 4th Floor, New York, NY 10020.
On the cover: Gigi Hadid, photographed by Billy Farrell/BFANYC.com. Jeremy Scott photographed by Giampaolo Sgura. FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
giorgio niro: shutterstock r u n way: f i r s t v i e w
MODELS ON FILM! These fashion lovelies set their sights on Hollywood. It’s okay to ogle! CARA DELEVINGNE So many projects! Cara’s current gigs include a turn in the Hugh Jackman actioner Pan, the crime thriller London Fields (avec Johnny Depp), and the period romance Tulip Fever. ROSIE HUNTINGTONWHITELY With Transformers: Dark of the Moon under her belt, Rosie’s next project is Mad Max: Fury Road. LIYA KEBEDE Liya scored roles in Jennifer Elster’s The Being Experience (with stars like Dave Matthews and Terrence Howard) and 419, the tale of a young woman’s abduction by the Nigerian mafia. TYSON BECKFORD He will star as a stripper with a heart of gold in the Magic Mike–esque Chocolate City. You’re welcome.
More models on the make: Look for Chanel Iman and Zoë Kravitz alongside Forest Whitaker in Dope, Emma Ishta in I Smile Back, Hannah Davis alongside Chris Hemsworth in Vacation, and Heidy De La Rosa in Man Seeking Woman.
JOE ZEE’s Los Angeles Black Book
your daily dose DISCUSS!
So what’s abuzz in Hollywood, chéris? Let’s begin with Tom Ford’s decision to show in L.A. this season, instead of London. It’s time to start petitioning for your invite… ☛ Charlize Theron made a rare-ish public appearance at NastyGal’s Melrose Ave. debut party. We just never thought of her that way. ☛ Finalement, it appears that Leonardo DiCaprio has moved beyond dating merely one mod at a time—instead, he’s busy dating a bevy of babes simultaneously. That’s one reality show we’d definitely watch. ☛
Four MORE EXCUSES TO SHOP! 1. The imminent expansion of the Chanel boutique on Rodeo Dr. More Karl + L.A. = Everything we adore. 2. DVF’s new wrap-dress-only store in Glendale. One in every color, please… 3. The Laure Heriard Dubreuil x Eres collection, launching worldwide (including at the Beverly Hills boutique!) this spring. 4. Greg Chait’s bungalow-turned-Elder Stateman boutique on Huntley Dr. Your quest for $1,200 (and up!) cashmere is over!
RETOUCHED BY AN ANGEL
Imagine if…Brian Grazer and Jared Leto switched coifs!
Brian Grazer FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
Jared Leto
Where to eat Sqirl, 720 North Virgil Ave. Sushi Park, 8539 Sunset Blvd., #20 Pace, 2100 Laurel Canyon Blvd. AOC, 8700 West Third St. Where to juice Earth Bar, 8365 Santa Monica Blvd. Where to sweat The Edge Dance Studio, 6300 Romaine St. Where to imbibe THE TOWER BAR, 8358 Sunset Blvd. Where to spend Mohawk General Store, 4011 Sunset Blvd. Where to roam Sunday Farmers Market on Hollywood and Ivar
CAR TALK! With Bob Mackie How long have you lived in L.A.? I was born here! I started working at Paramount Studios in my early twenties. I thought I had died and gone to heaven. What’s it like to dress Cher? She’s like a character in a play. What do you keep in your car? When I was younger, I practically lived in my car! I wasn’t homeless, but you had to be prepared—I had taken a job as a wardrobe supervisor. We’d go to the beach then Disneyland, so I kept an ironing board and spray starch in there. Hey, you have to make a living!
CLICK TO BUY! With Arianne Phillips Your designs for the Colin Firth spy flick Kingsman: The Secret Service are now for sale on Mr. Porter. Sublime! It’s super cool that the clothes will live beyond the film. I love the idea of men walking the streets in Kingsman gear. Where might we spot you in L.A.? Hiking in Griffith Park with my two dogs. It’s my happy place! What do you think of the city’s design scene? There is a lot happening here. It’s the place to be, but shhh—do not tell everyone! g e t t y i m a g e s ( 7 ) ; bf a n y c . c om ( 8 ) ; e v e r e t t c o l l e c t i o n
z Bu z
“Something warm because I get cold easily.”
L.A. NEWBIES!
With Ruffian designers Brian Morais and Claude Wolk
Did you change your uniform when you moved here from NY? We shed our winter coats, several pounds, and got a bunch of new sneakers. We are definitely having a moment with sweatshorts, our new skinny jeans! What are some clichés about L.A. that just aren’t true? The idea that people are not as sharp here as they are in NYC. They definitely are—they just speak a different language.
Diane von Furstenberg
Flo Rida
Alessandra Ambrosio
HEARD
Candice Swanepoel
“I always have water bottles and lots of lip balm.”—KERRY
DANCE PARTY!
WASHINGTON
With event producer Bryan Rabin, the brains behind Giorgio’s at The Standard Hotel, the hottest Saturday-night party Who is Giorgio’s named for? The godfather of disco, Giorgio Moroder. Who might we spot on the dance floor? Daphne Guinness, Dita Von Teese, Catherine Baba, Paco Rabanne, Haider Ackermann, Olivier Theyskens… What are the club’s rules? When we first opened, we threw people out for taking selfies and using telephones. That’s one of the things that ruined clubs in the past decade. Is there a guest list? There is. It’s not for everybody.
☛ Confess: What’s in your car? “I drive a Bentley, so it already has everything I need.” —Diane von Furstenberg ☛ “I always have a phone charger, snacks, toys for my kids, and sunglasses.”—Alessandra Ambrosio ☛ “Random clothes, like high heels, boots, UGGs, flipflops, and sweaters. It’s like a closet on wheels, basically. There’s also a lot of baby stuff and emergency kits. I have an odd obsession with emergency kits, in case we have something weird happen, like an earthquake.”—Jaime King ☛ “Oh, I have a few cars. I probably have a cashmere blanket in at least one of them, though.”—Deborah Lloyd ☛ “An extra pair of shades.”—Flo Rida ☛ “Many “An extra pair of umbrellas. sunglasses! Being To the point in the car and that I can’t listening to NPR is the only good ever find an thing about being umbrella Coco Rocha in L.A., though…” because —ChloË Sevigny they’re all in my car!” —Coco Rocha
THE FRENCH CONNECTION Demi Moore and Bryan Rabin
CAMERON SILVER’S L.A. Black Book
Fix
—cANDICE SWANEPOEL
Rabin and André Balazs
Dita Von Teese
Hydration has never looked quite so chic. The Kenzo collab with Evian debuted at Paris Fashion Week and is now a Hollywood musthave. This year’s limitededition bottle was influenced by director David Lynch and conceived by Kenzo creative directors Carol Lim and Humberto Leon. Go to shop.evian.us, where the bottles go for $6.99 each and $39.99 for a case.
Where to eat La Scala, 434 N. Canon Dr. Where to sweat In and Up Pilates, 2023 Riverside Dr. Where to spa Tomoko Japanese Spa, 141 S. Beverly Dr. Where to drink Soho House, 9200 Sunset Blvd. “It’s terribly civilized, with the best view in town.”
Jaime King
OVERHEARD… “I think it’s important to step out a little without looking foolish. Don’t be too conservative. I think color is really important, and I would avoid black, white, and nude unless you find something truly amazing. But most important, wear something you feel comfortable in.”—Nicole Miller’s take on red-carpet dressing
PLUS…IT’S AN L.A. STAR MAP QUIZ Which of these lovelies does not live in Beverly Hills? (Quelle horreur!) Diane von Furstenberg Hedi Slimane Jaime King Rachel Zoe Laura and Kate Mulleavy Lubov and Max Azria Rachel Zoe
Laura and Kate Mulleavy
Answers here! Amber Valetta Daphne Guinness FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
The Azrias live in Westwood; the Rodarte sisters live in Pasadena.
Courtney Love
b f anyc . c o m ( 1 4 ) ; g e tty imag e s ( 2 ) ; all o th e r s c o u rt e s y
S:10.25 in
S:13 in
Where can you go to find the very best that Southern California has to offer? Follow your dreams to a city unlike any other. Where the legendary Sunset Strip meets the stylish West Hollywood Design District. Where eclectic dining meets electric nightlife. Leave everything that’s conventional, expected and mundane at home, and go big, go bold, go WeHo. visitwesthollywood.com
BFA
BILLY FARRELL AGENCY
images matter. bookings@bfanyc.com 212.924.4250 @bfa_nyc
left to right, top to bottom: shanae nae/ bfanyc.com the blonds aw1 4 presented by madefw / jesse lirola / bfanyc.com alexander wang ss14 show / matteo prandoni/ bfanyc.com giovanna battaglia and friends at the paramount hotel’s diamond horse / neil rasmus/ bfanyc.com kate spade ny fall 2014 / joe schildhorn/ bfanyc.com zac posen fall 2013 / jesse lirola/ bfanyc.com rodarte fw14 runway show / madison mcgaw/ bfanyc.com vfiles made fashion after party / joe schildhorn/ bfanyc.com zac posen fall 2013 / matteo prandoni/ bfanyc.com purple fashion magazine dinner
IMAGESMATTER.indd 3
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Mazdack Rassi, Fashion Innovator of the Year Ilaria Urbinati, Menswear Stylist of the Year
Jeremy Scott, Womenswear Designer of the Year
Ariel Foxman, InStyle, Fashion Magazine of the Year
Gigi Hadid, Model of the Year
August Getty, Emerging Designer of the Year
G E T T Y I M A G E S ( 6 ) ; b fa n yc . c o m ( 3 ) p at r i c k m c m u l l a n . c o m ; s h u tte r st o c k
Lubov Azria, Hervé Léger, Anniversary Tribute
And the win ners Are…
Ann Caruso, Womenswear Stylist of the Year
Italo Zucchelli, Menswear Designer of the Year, Calvin Klein Collection
Christian Louboutin, Shoe Designer of the Year
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
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jeremy scott
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womenswear designer of the year
hat a year you’ve had! First, with your buzzy debut of Moschino… It resonated way beyond fashion—it resonated with pop culture. It became an ubiquitous thing that everyone understood. How did you know it reached beyond the fashion world? I was shocked by all the fan art on Instagram. It was pouring in. There were also daily encounters with people at the gym. Someone would be riding a bike next to me at SoulCycle and say, “You’re everywhere!” Between the debut collection for Moschino, the work I’ve already been doing, launching a fragrance, launching a book, and shooting a documentary, I was busy. Even Katy Perry was like, “You’re having such an amazing year!” I just keep my head down and do my work. How do you measure your success? My work has always been about touching people through pop culture and using fashion to speak to them. When people are passionate, I’m excited. It’s also great seeing the clothes on the street. That’s the highest level of compliment. I love dressing all my girls, but it’s different to run into people who have spent their hard-earned cash to buy things they identify with. It’s a very thrilling and humbling experience. Other designers have clients; I have fans. You’ve described yourself as a “vessel.” What does that exactly mean? Creativity is like water in a vessel, and you can pour it into different shapes. Creativity comes to me from a higher level, if you will. People always ask where ideas come from, and it’s magic! There’s not a formula for me. These ideas are instantaneous. In that way, I’m a vessel for ideas and then I put them onto paper and onto the runway. Where do you get your pop culture news? I read the newspaper, the Internet, TV news, and my daily e-mail from The Daily! I glance at a lot of different things. I have a horrible fear of throwing out a newspaper that I haven’t read. How does living in Los Angeles inspire you creatively? I’m just happy here, and I believe that one does their best work when they’re happy. Right now it’s cloudy and gray, but generally, it’s very sunny and there are beautiful blue skies year-round. Los Angeles feels very optimistic. I love the politics of California, which L.A. is a big part of. Part of it is it’s the land of make believe. It’s Hollywood, where you can be whatever you wanted to be and you can make up your own story. I feel like I can cocoon and do my work and be in my own world and be slightly apart from the hubbub of fashion. Is your house decorated like your collections? Currently, not at all! I just moved into it in July, so my house basically has nothing in it. My old house was decorated in black and white, which most people don’t generally associate me with. This house is a little bit sexier. You have a reputation as a partyer, but you’re not really a party boy. I’ve never smoked a cigarette in my life. I do drink on occasion, but rarely. What do you love about a party? Parties are joyful—or they should be, at least. You never know what’s going to happen or who’s going to show up, and I love that. I love music, too, which is a key component to a party. FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
You’re also very family-oriented. My brother and sister are about 10 years older than me, so in a way, I grew up with a second set of parents. I’m very close with my parents as well. I speak with them often. Generally, my mother and sister come to my show in New York and then they started coming to the show in Milan. My sister has a son, so he’s been coming to the shows since he was born. They’ve been very supportive of everything I do. Where do they live? Kansas City. They all live almost within walking distance of one another. I’m the one that broke out. They’re still huddled together like a little pack of wolves. What does your family think of your life? They just roll with it. I’m sure there are times that it’s beyond their comprehension. No one’s asked me for anyone’s autograph. They’ve met Katy [Perry] on occasion. There’s a famous photo of her with my nephew at the first Moschino after-party, and he looks like he’s about to burst into tears. And I took my brother and sister to see Miley [Cyrus] this summer in Kansas City. I was home filming a documentary about the farm where I grew up. Miley happened to be there on tour, so they came and met her and fell in love with her because she’s adorable. It’s hard not to. You’ve appeared on Wheel of Fortune and The Young and the Restless. What would you like to do that you haven’t done yet? I want to be a judge on RuPaul’s Drag Race. I love that show! That was always a guaranteed night of laughs. I love when people have humor and self-reference. That’s what I did with The Young and the Restless. They had me play myself. I had this whole scene where I was showing sketches and talking about how it was my dream to sell at their store. You’ve also worked with Miss Piggy. Details! You get so drawn into the personality that the puppeteers don’t really matter. I was instantly transported to childhood. She and Kermit were kind of bickering and I was in the middle of it. I loved it. She’s a diva, but I’m used to working with divas. Why are icons drawn to you? My work synthesizes a message that they often are trying to convey. I’ve always loved musicians the most, because their job is to turn up the volume on their personality. My work does that, too. It’s very bold. It’s a love-it-or-hate-it situation. Are you comfortable with that? I am now; I might have been less so in the beginning. It’s like, “Why do you hate me?” I never understand why people get so bent out of shape about something that they don’t like, especially when it’s not political. I understand when people want to fight about Ferguson, but this is literally about clothes, style, a haircut. I don’t get myself bent out of shape about boring things. Why did Style.com refuse to cover you for years? It all stemmed from [the collection] “Sexibition.” There was never an explanation of what happened. In one way it’s amazing, and I have to look at it in a prideful way because if my work is that powerful, it can be strong and inspirational. I feel like I’m one of the few designers who elicits a strong reaction. There’s was a New York Times article about the rise and fall of Jeremy Scott, but I’m still here. The Daily loves Jeremy Scott. Thank you for accepting our award! I am so flattered. I’m very blessed. I never win anything, so I’m really touched.
“Jeremy should have been born British! He has a sense of irony— in life and in fashion—that I rarely see in the U.S. Although in many other ways he acts typically American, as those of us from outside see it. Having first met him and seen his work in his early days, I believe I actually wrote in the International Herald Tribune that he was in the spirit of Franco Moschino. I know this because his sister claims she still has the clipping! Jeremy is close to his family, and there is something of the eternal child in him. I have always felt dispirited by ‘grownup’ fashion, so I enjoy his sense of cartoon fun.” —Suzy Menkes “Jeremy is a fashion iconoclast. His ability to translate and turn popular culture on its head and feed it back to us makes us hungry for more. He has the uncanny ability to create play and fun in a world that is often overdramatized and full of itself. His lust for life and his wink and a nod are a constant breath of fresh air that reminds us to dress up and have fun." —Arianne Phillips “Jeremy is a magician of marketing communication, beyond the product itself. In this era where communication is 70 percent of the social connective tissue, Jeremy is a highlight.” —Anna Dello Russo r o n y a l w i n ; i n s e t s : b f a n y c . c o m ( 2 ) ; g e t t y i ma g e s
“
People always ask me where my ideas come from, and it's magic!"
“Italo’s a very talented and amazing person. There is a peacefulness about him that is wonderful. I also like that he has stepped up and takes chances in what he does and how he does it. We’re great partners.” —Francisco Costa
italo zucChelli
menswear designer of the year, Calvin Klein Collection What made 2014 a particularly special year for you? Every year is special, but last year we consolidated our relationship with the music world, which I’m very interested in. I like these connections, and they also help me communicate our clothes to a younger, bigger, and cool audience. You were among the first to discover Sam Smith. We dressed him for his appearance on Saturday Night Live, and that started our relationship. It was very organic. His stylist asked us to do the wardrobe for the tour, so I did the American tour, then the European tour, and now I’m working on another American tour. He’s getting huge, and I love that, because he’s very young. And he actually likes to wear suits! I love to see his clothes on the stage. And see Drake performing in the sky T-shirt that I did for the Spring collection was also pretty special. Do you listen to Sam’s music? Yes! It’s not difficult because he’s very talented. How’s your singing voice? Not very good. Do you play any instruments? I used to play the piano when I was a kid. I actually went to a conservatory and studied for five years, so I can read music. I still have a good ear! Is L.A. having a fashion moment? There is definitely something boiling here. It’s exciting. I always love to come here to research in the winter, and it’s very pleasant and warm. I love to go to the vintage stores and see what’s around. Any favorite haunts? I love The Ivy, because it’s just so L.A. There are even paparazzi outside. People don’t even know who [the celebrities] are, but they go crazy. I also like to go to Santa Monica and walk by the sea. The weather is beyond. It’s very relaxed in comparison to New York. The only problem is that you’re always in a car. If you walk, people think you’re crazy. But overall, it’s a good antidote to New York. You just showed your Fall collection in Milan. How are you feeling during the busiest time of your year? There’s anxiety, always, but I keep it cool. I don’t like to rush. Showtime is a very enjoyable moment for me—it’s a celebration. I see what I’ve worked on for six months come alive. How do you wind down afterward? I usually go to visit my mother. I’m from a beach town
in Italy, and she still lives there, so it’s great. We go to the beach, I eat very well, and it’s very relaxing. This year, you’ve changed your plans in order to attend our awards. Congratulations on your honor! This feels very good, because [Calvin Klein Collection PR director of menswear and celebrity] Antoine [Phillips] and I are working so hard to identify the people who make sense for us. In the past 10 years, there has been a big obsession with celebrities, but I think it’s most important for a brand to go after quality talent. I believe it’s best to start working with people three minutes before they become famous. That’s what Calvin himself did, and I always admired that. One of your discoveries was model Clark Bockelman. He’s an all-American guy with a perfect body. You cannot take a bad picture of him, and he walks and wears clothes perfectly. When you see something like that, in pure Calvin Klein tradition, you have to book him for an exclusive. You’re a big believer in meditation. Why? It helps me manage stress, center myself, develop my intuition and creativity, be more compassionate, and start the day on the right foot. I’ve been doing it for 20 years, and it’s an amazing tool that has nothing to do with religion. It’s your own little 20-minute moment to recharge. You’ve been described as a silly person. Is that true? Absolutely. All day long, I dance and break everybody’s balls. People always ask me, “How much coffee did you have this morning? Calm down.” I’m very Italian, but I’ve been in this country for 15 years so I learned to be very un-Italian, but sometimes, my Italian-ness comes out with a vengeance. I like to be in a good mood; I like to be ironic; I don’t think life has to be too serious. You have the phrase “So Be It” framed and hanging on the wall of your office. You don’t have to fight everything! Sometimes you have to go with the flow and let things resolve on their own. You’re turning 50 this year. Plans? I’m either going to have a party or disappear. Age is about how you feel on the inside. Plus, 50 is the new 40! What makes you proud? Living the life I always wanted. That’s why I’m happy—I’m expressing myself.
“Italo is generous of spirit, down-to-earth, and intelligent. He’s very curious about other people and the world around him, and that shows in his artistry. You never get the sense that you’re being viewed as a commodity. I’ve spent time with him personally and professionally, and there’s no differentiation in his character. He’s the same kind soul in any environment.” —Matt Bomer “Italo has managed to inject his hyper-refined European sensibility into a label that is the quintessence of sexy American physicality. Contemporary fashion has been all about hybrids, and Italo’s is one of the most successful.” —Tim Blanks “Italo has been continually successful in translating his clean, chic vision to men’s fashion with his forward-thinking eye, attention to detail, and critical understanding of our cultural zeitgeist and what it means to be cool today. There’s a reason musicians, actors, and celebrities alike are all drawn to Calvin Klein Collection—they know they will end up with a look that is sophisticated, edgy, and classic. On top of it all, he is generous and kind. I am lucky to consider him a dear friend.” —Stephen Gan “Italo has always been on the forefront of innovation, never afraid to explore new fabrics, silhouettes, and ideas. Celebrities gravitate to Italo and his work because he is uniquely able to design modern, minimal, and masculine clothes that feel classic and fashion-forward at the same time. It’s what sets him (and those who wear his clothes) apart from the crowd.” —Jim Moore “There is a modernism about Italo’s work that is clean, natural, and not forced. He has pushed forward but always stays grounded in the Calvin Klein code.” —Steven Kolb
MADE IN ITALO During his decade-long tenure as the men’s creative director for Calvin Klein Collection, Italo Zucchelli became the go-to outfitter for Hollywood’s top actors, both on and off the red carpet. Now, he’s turning his attention to the music world. BY EDDIE ROCHE PHOTOGRAPHY BY GIORGIO NIRO FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
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I believe it’s best to start working with people three minutes before they become famous.”
ILARIA URBINATI menswear Stylist of the year
From top: Ben Affleck in custom Gucci; James Marsden in Ovadia & Sons; Chris Evans in custom Gucci; Armie Hammer in custom Gucci; Bradley Cooper in custom Salvatore Ferragamo
Who was your first big celebrity client? Chris Evans. The partnership formed the oldfashioned way—through his publicist. He wasn’t Captain America then. Another one of my oldest clients is Bradley Cooper—I’ve been styling him for seven years. Did you always aim to style? I grew up working in retail at my aunt’s store, Laura Urbinati, which was huge in L.A. in the ’90s. The store carried the first season of Balenciaga by Nicolas Ghesquière, and my aunt brought Margiela, Comme des Garçons, and Helmut Lang to L.A. I became her buyer, and I had a knack for it. Then I started buying for Satine, which was a game changer. Because Satine was so popular, Mia Kirshner, one of the actresses on the The L Word, asked me to interview for a wardrobe consultant job on the show. In the interview, I was very opinionated— I would say, “This is what she should be wearing. Why on earth was she wearing that?” I got the job. When did you focus on menswear? When one of the actors I dressed on the show, Eric Lively, was voted Best-Dressed Male on Television by TV Guide. When did you team up with Bradley Cooper? The night before he started doing press for The Hangover. Bradley and Danny Masterson were in a movie called Yes Man, and Danny and I owned a store in L.A. called Confederacy. Danny asked Bradley to host one of our events, and when he introduced us, he said, “You need to hire Ilaria. She’s the best.” Bradley said, “Great! Can you be at my house tomorrow afternoon?” I managed to get enough clothes together for an entire press tour, and the rest is history. At this point, he's family. On that particular press tour, Bradley wore a lot of three-piece suits… They were all by Simon Spurr—no one else was doing them at that time. I like anything that’s like a little old-school Americana, like a three-piece suit, so I pulled some and he was like, “What is this? Three-piece suits—really? That’s so cool. I love it.” Are men typically more reluctant to be styled? At first, they don’t really care, and then I do my thing and they start getting a lot of compliments, so by the time they come for the second or third fitting they really start caring…and then they start caring too much! They usually calm down after awhile, but there’s always a moment when they’ve learned the power of looking good and, all of the sudden, they’ll say things like, “But what about that little wrinkle?” The ones who really let me do my job are always the ones who are on the bestdressed lists. Which up-and-coming menswear designers do you love right now? I’m constantly using Ovadia & Sons and Thom
Sweeney. Bradley has been wearing one of his suits for the American Sniper press. We’ve also been using a lot of Todd Snyder. I actually put Ty Burrell in a custom Todd Snyder tux when he won the award at the Emmys last year. Which trends are on your radar these days? People are actually talking about men’s styling and men’s fashion in a way that they haven’t since the ’60s. Colored suits—maroon, hunter green, and royal blue—are really big. I’m into special fabrics like wools and tweeds. I put Nikolaj Coster-Waldau from Game of Thrones in a gray wool tux from Brunello Cucinelli for the White House Correspondents’ Dinner. Ty Burrell is very adventurous, so I put him in a lot of cool looks, like the gray doublebreasted Brunello Cucinelli tux he wore last year. What about velvet? I love velvet. I’ve been using it for a few years. Ty wore an Armani black velvet tux with a shawl lapel last year to the Golden Globes, and I put Joel Edgerton in a Zegna teal-colored corduroy suit for the New York premiere of Exodus. Bradley wore a Tom Ford corduroy suit to the brand’s runway show in London. Who is your most fashion-forward client? James Marsden is the most willing to try new things, and Ty is innately very, very cool and stylish. He brings a lot of that on his own. Armie Hammer has worn some pretty crazy things. For the U.K. premiere of The Lone Ranger, we dressed him in a bright red Gucci suit, and it was beautiful. How far in advance do you plan looks? People always think that if I just snap my fingers, clothes magically appear. If I’m lucky, I have a week’s notice to find something, but events are often added at the last minute. On a press tour, I’ll hear, “Oops! We added a talk show tomorrow!” Do clients keep the clothes? For premieres, the client will usually give them back. If a client is nominated for an award, and the designer doesn’t let them keep the suit they wear to the event, I’m just never going to use their s**t again. And clients of a certain caliber of fame get to keep everything. What’s your job like during awards season? I’m navigating my clients through a really special moment in their lives. It’s just a very intimate bonding experience. How often do you have to tailor suits on the fly? I work with one particular tailor very closely, and she will either come to us or we’ll run the piece over to her. I see her more than I see my own mother. How often do you serve as a personal shopper? I’ll do it for regular, long-term clients like James, and I dressed Eli Roth for his wedding in a gorgeous Isaia tux.
“Ilaria is a very good friend. She has amazing taste and style. She has been our secret weapon to style the coolest men in Hollywood. She simply makes men look their best and is the best at it.” —Todd Snyder “I attribute much of Ilaria’s industry success to her ability to understand her clients’ individuality. Her ability to curate the perfect look for every occasion underscores her position as one of the world's best celebrity stylists of our day. She’s also unbeatable at Cards Against Humanity!’' —Simon Spurr
the guyS’ girl
Behind every great man is a great woman, n’est-ce pas? No wonder the Hollywood elite is looking so dashingly dapper these days—stylist Ilaria Urbinati has been developing a reputation for making A-listers such as Bradley Cooper, Chris Evans, and Ty Burrell look like the millions they’re earning. BY PAIGE REDDINGER PHOTOGRAPHY BY ERIC RAY DAVIDSON FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
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The ones who really let me do my job are always the ones who end up on the best-dressed lists.�
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ANN CARUSO
womenswear stylist of the year
“Ann has a real understanding of chic American glamour and you see it in everything she does. She loves tradition but always keeps things modern.” —Michael Kors “The only thing that surpasses Ann Caruso’s style is her grace. She sets the standard in the industry. I adore her.” —Glenda Bailey “Annie Caruso is one of the great stylists in New York—and perhaps America— today. She has an eye for everything. She knows how to tie together elements in such a way as to make each subject a thing of beauty.” —Leonard Lauder “Ann has great taste and can combine high fashion with what actually suits you. We’ve worked together for years, and I adore her.” —Elizabeth Hurley “I met Ann about 10 years ago at a party in NYC. We were seated at the same table. We started talking immediately. We hit it off and danced all night long. She has a refined eye that hones in on the look of elegance. Subtle and never over the top—almost strict, you could say. And she is elegant. I guess that is what drew her to me at that party. The Manolos on her feet didn’t hurt, either.” —Arthur Elgort
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
ETERNAL ELEGANCE
Stylist Ann Caruso played an integral role in the biggest Hollywood fashion event of the year: George Clooney’s royal-esque wedding to lawyer Amal Alamuddin. One of New York’s most popular party guests, Caruso has an effortlessly elegant eye and picture-perfect personal style that has landed her jobs working with everyone from Ralph Lauren and Bruce Weber to Oprah Winfrey and Claire Danes to shooting Laura Bush in the White House. BY PETER DAVIS PHOTOGRAPHY BY LORENZO BRINGHE You have had quite the year. It was a big year in a lot of different ways. A lot of things shifted. I was recovering from cancer, so I was finishing off some treatments and had a couple of surgeries. And work just seemed to come to me—lots of interesting projects. The week before I went in for a big operation, George Clooney asked me to dress his family for his wedding. I didn’t think I could do it, but I took on the job, and it was a pleasure to work with such good people and be a part of something so special and beautiful. Amal became an instant style icon. I like the fact that she is an independent, strong, and intelligent woman who happens to have good taste. She made some bold choices for her wedding, and everything looked amazing on her. She has confidence in what she wears, which captures the camera’s eye. That’s why everyone loves her. You’ve had such a varied career. Which roles stand out the most? Working at Ralph Lauren in design, getting a job at Vogue, styling the VH1 Fashion Awards, styling celebrities for Vanity Fair in the 2000s, styling a Ralph Lauren ad campaign with Bruce Weber, being named a contributing fashion editor for Tatler, styling celebrities for the Oscars, becoming a contributing fashion editor at Harper’s Bazaar, styling Oprah shot by Terry Richardson for Bazaar, and as a survivor myself, dressing Elizabeth Hurley for the Breast Cancer Awareness Campaigns for Estée Lauder.
Any wild memories from your shoots? Being in a construction pit on the hottest day of the year—109 degrees— with Ivanka Trump in a bathing suit, diamonds and a power drill in one shot and another with her lying in the sand pit in a Dior gown in between rain showers. Or shooting on a farm with goats, horses, and llamas, one of which stepped on my toe. It required surgery on my foot! One very special event was shooting Laura Bush in the White House. We had to get there very early, so we were tiptoeing through the private quarters. Hanging out in the Lincoln Bedroom was memorable and, of course, so was meeting the lovely First Lady. What’s your idea of Hollywood style? Hollywood style has changed over the years. Old Hollywood was consistently glamorous, and the actors were only photographed when they were dressed up. Now there is a more modern and friendly style. Hollywood doesn’t like anything with too much fashion or that feels over the top, especially when going to an awards show. They want something beautiful, elegant, and sexy. It is about the right amount of jewelry and the perfect bag and shoe, along with the right hair and makeup team. Actors have busy lives, and we are getting inspiration from their style every day. The way actresses dress on a day-to-day basis can be aspirational to the modern woman. What stylish things can we expect from you this year? Aside from this incredible award, I love consulting with fashion brands to help them execute their visions. Also, my upcoming personal styling and fashion shoots, as well as a top-secret design project that is both stylish and very much needed for breast cancer survivors. I am excited to finally launch a luxury lifestyle site, It’s a Stylish Life, which has been on hold for the past two years. It will be a very exciting year.
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Hollywood doesn’t like anything with too much fashion or that feels over the top, especially when going to an awards show.”
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ARIEL FOXMAN
InStyle, Fashion magazine of the year How did InStyle develop its own unique take on Hollywood? When the magazine launched 20 years ago, it was about the private lives of public people. It was innovative at the time—nobody thought you could make a magazine about what people do in their off-hours. When I came on board in 2008, people were familiar with the concept, but we were operating in a world of celebrity weeklies. We brought the focus back to celebrities as aspiration and fashion inspiration. Why else do celebs like to work with InStyle? Celebrity, in our space, equals glamour, luxury, beauty, and fun. InStyle is an honest, friendly, optimistic, and snark-free product. We’ve maintained our access because we don’t trade on our access. We don’t rehash someone’s lowlights in an article, and we’re very keen on maintaining that. How do you find emerging talent? I have an incredible team, and they’ve made a religion out of it. A week doesn’t go by where they don’t have me see a pilot, watch an eight-minute clip of a movie, download a song, look into a girl, or check out a YouTube clip. Any pivotal examples? Our West Coast bureau chief, Glynis Costin, saw a very short clip of 12 Years a Slave months and months before it came out, and she said we had to shoot Lupita Nyong’o. I trust my team—they rarely miss a beat. We ran a full fashion story on Lupita in December 2013. We were the first magazine to bring her to any fashion audience, way before Vogue, ELLE, Glamour, or any of our competitors. Who else has InStyle covered way before the glossy glut? Jennifer Lawrence. Glynis had seen Winter’s Bone at Sundance, and she said we had to do something with her. We used to do a feature called “New Face, New Designer,” and featured Jennifer in it in July 2010. The movie didn’t even have a distributor yet. She then appeared on our cover in 2013. We also did Jessica Chastain, Emma Stone, Blake Lively, Kerry Washington, and Taylor Swift early on. Are celebs ever surprised to nab full fashion shoots before they hit it big? We shot Allison Williams before Girls’ first season even launched. We’d seen Tiny Furniture, we knew Girls was coming out, and Allison was Brian Williams’ daughter. We shot Allison in this great fashion story, then she sent a hand-written letter to me saying she was so taken aback that we’d done a feature on her when the show hadn’t even premiered. How sweet! What’s a standout, very Tinseltown cover you’ve made happen? Our Oz cover from spring 2013. When you take over a
magazine, there are all these “rules” that a staff operates under, like only doing solo cover subjects and never doing a cast. I wanted to do something more innovative around Oz, because it had three cover girls: Mila [Kunis], Michelle [Williams], and Rachel [Weisz]. Rather than choosing one actress, we went to Disney about doing our first-ever cover like this, and leveraging it internationally with at least 10 InStyle editions. How did the issue do? It sold quite well. But I don’t think it’s something we’d do often; there aren’t lots of movies with that range of cover girls. Who’s on your radar for 2015? Nicola Peltz and Gugu Mbatha-Raw. Are you more of a film or TV junkie? Film. I love choosing somewhere to “go” for two hours with a movie and be immersed. I’m not a binge watcher. I’ll do it, but I much prefer to watch a movie. Also, I love travel, and foreign films feel more like a travel experience. Any recent films you can’t stop recommending? I was blown away by Cake and The Theory of Everything. Do you get really into Oscar nominee predictions? I used to, but I see everything up until the last moment, so it’s hard to get any perspective. At this point, I’m so close to so many of the publicists working with the nominees that I’m not rooting for the films I like—I’m rooting for the people working with the people who are nominated, or for the designers dressing those nominees. What’s the story with the magazine’s Golden Globes bash? We partner with the Hollywood Foreign Press Association and co-host the official after-party with Warner Brothers. We’ve thrown it for years, and it’s successful year in and year out. If something has to change, like the step-andrepeat did this year, it’s a big discussion, because it’s such a fine-tuned, well-oiled machine. Do you get starstruck? I don’t, but I was very excited to meet Jodie Foster. She came into the party with her two sons, and we had this big chocolate display. I was having a lengthy conversation with Jodie, and behind her, her sons were ravaging the chocolate—eating it and shoving it in their pockets. Ha! Where do you spend time when you’re out west? I stay at the Four Seasons, and I’m usually at the Chateau or Soho House for a few meals anytime I visit. I have a lot of friends in L.A., so I’ll also go to their houses. Would you ever move to L.A.? If the job were compelling enough, sure. I’ve never been to L.A. and had a bad time.
REQUIRED
“InStyle has never faltered from being a total class act. It’s constantly entertaining, informative, and beautifully laid out. I think they bring out the best in everyone. Ariel Foxman is a profoundly kind and supremely intelligent man. He is a shining example of humanity as well as business.” —Drew Barrymore “When InStyle launched, it created a new paradigm for magazines by merging the world of celebrity with that of fashion. It was one of the first publications to feature a celebrity as a cover model. It was, and continues to be under Ariel’s leadership, a trusted and hugely successful resource of fashion and lifestyle for women.” —Tom Ford “I always know that I’m going to have a fantastic time when I work with InStyle. It’s obvious that the editors love what they do and have very high standards for the magazine. The photo shoot set is relaxed and fun, and you should see the racks of clothes! I could spend hours looking at each of the gorgeous pieces the fashion editor brings to set. I always walk away knowing that we did something special.” —Jessica Chastain “InStyle is a magazine that speaks to and serves readers who understand that connection and who strive to bring the magic of the runway and the red carpet into their own sense of style.” —Kerry Washington “I admire Ariel not only for his professional vision, but also for his warmth and kindness. I feel so privileged to count him as a friend.” —Joseph Altuzarra
READING
InStyle has long dominated coverage of the celebrity lifestyle. Since top ed Ariel Foxman took the helm six years ago, the mag has had bragging rights for featuring megastars before anyone else in the fashion pack. BY ALEXANDRA ILYASHOV PHOTOGRAPHY BY GIORGIO NIRO FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
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InStyle is an honest, friendly, optimistic, and snark-free product.�
AUGUST GETTY Emerging designer of the year What was your first fashion memory? I would take off my Barbies’ clothes and draw bikinis on them with Sharpies. I would also make clothes for them out of my mom’s shoe bags from Roger Vivier and Chanel. What was your favorite item in your mother’s closet? A beautiful pink taffeta dress designed by Luisa Beccaria, which is hanging in my studio right now. I also loved her wedding dress. She despises it, but I think it’s so fabulous, because it’s such an over-the-top ball gown. It looked like the dress Cinderella wears when she walks down the steps. How did you start Getty with his sister, Natalia designing? I just started! You can learn the craft, but you need to be born with the will to do it. What was it like to show your collection during New York Fashion Week? Surreal. I tried to bring as many elements of home to New York to kind of ease me through it, like wine. I also brought a lot of friends. My sister, who is a model, closed the show. Look, I’ve been doing this since I was born, and you don’t set Babe Ruth on the field if he’s not going to hit a home run. I’m going to run the field. Apart from being a student of the art of fashion, I’m a student of the art of success. I’ve studied how to be good. Who do you design for? She’s a very mysterious and sexy girl. She’s also privileged. I want her to be the girl in the corner of the room—you never see her face, but you see her back and want to know more about her. Have you already established a celebrity clientele? Taylor Swift, Beyoncé, and Madonna have pulled a lot of stuff! Who else would you love to dress? Scarlett Johansson, Sophia Loren, and Boy George. Were you ever tempted to move to New York? Never. I’m so L.A., although I also lived in the English countryside for nine years.
Who is your top retailer? Maxfield in L.A. I want to sell at Colette or Barneys, too, but truthfully, I’m more excited to have my own store. Where? In Beverly Hills or New York. Then we conquer Europe. Who is your muse? My sister, Natalia. She’s not my only sister, but she is such an incredible woman. She’s very brave, and she inspires me. She’s the moon to my sun. Have you had an “I’ve made it” moment? When the second girl walked out at my show. I remember looking at my sister, and she was crying. I get teary-eyed just thinking about it. Who are your mentors? I have had a lot of experiences where people have shown me the way, but really it’s been a solo tour for quite some time. In this business, you can’t be shy, but sometimes I am, and my mom has really helped me through that. I know I keep talking about my family, but it’s true that they were my first guides and friends. The design spirit who really guides me is Lee McQueen. He’s the unspoken word in my head. What designers do you like to wear? I buy most of my things from eBay. I like vintage and really worn-in pieces. I mix Givenchy with old Doc Martens and an Iron Maiden T-shirt from the ’80s. I love a leather sweatpant, and I’m also a big sunglass collector. I buy a lot of my eyewear from Jack’s on La Brea. Favorite movie? How to Marry a Millionaire. Favorite album? The Little Mermaid soundtrack, minus every song that’s not Ariel’s. What inspired your upcoming collection? I’m showing in New York on Friday, February 13th, and the collection is very dark. It’s always sexy, but it’s a different kind now. I always try to incorporate a theme of fantasy. I live so much in my head. I draw such a fine line between fantasy and reality that fantasy is my reality now. My favorite quote is, “As I see the world, it is.” Who is your dream team for an ad campaign? The photographer would be Michael Muller, who works very well with movement, and the models would be my sister and I wearing the same dress. I will not rest until I see my legs on a billboard!
getty’s IMAGES
For the grandson of the late John Paul Getty Jr., fashion is in the genes. Newly minted designer August Getty staged his first show at Lincoln Center in New York in September, which was followed by a delightfully over-the-top party at The Pierre (once owned by his great-grandfather) that treated revelers to glitter-covered cotton candy. With a sense of humor and an intimate relationship with luxury, Getty is poised to become Los Angeles’ next fashion darling. BY PAIGE REDDINGER PHOTOGRAPHY BY RICKY MIDDLESWORTH FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
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I draw such a fine line between fantasy and reality that fantasy is my reality now.�
getty images; all others courtesy
GIGI HADID Model of the year
“I first worked with Gigi on the Marc Jacobs show—I knew her because she was friends with Kendall [Jenner]—then met her properly at The Daily’s Fashion Media Awards. She is a real hoot to work with. On our shoot for LOVE 13 with Sølve [Sundsbø] and Gigi’s sister Bella, my iPod was on random and Fergie’s song ‘Glamorous’ came on. The two of them burst into a whole routine, knowing every word and having a move for every line of the song. She’s gorgeous, has a very strong work ethic, is generous and very, very sweet—sending notes after shoots and always grateful to be given an opportunity.” —Katie Grand “I first met her because [IMG models head] Ivan Bart said, ‘There is a girl you will love.’ He had made that same call about Kate Upton a year before when nobody knew who she was. When I saw Gigi, I fell in love—it was like we knew each other, like family. She was the most beautiful girl and also warm and smart and hard-working. She looked like a superstar and, most importantly, a supermodel. So I just canceled every girl I was shooting that season to shoot Gigi instead, and we did beautiful pictures together all year long. To see her now becoming the biggest star is no surprise at all. That is how I always saw her. There’s something kind and magical about beautiful Gigi that makes you want to stay near her.” —Sebastian Faena
Have you ever won anything before? Victoria’s Secret gave me an award for Best Selfie last year. I got a spinning trophy with wings on it. This award is such an honor. I can think of a hundred people that I could give it to instead. I might not be the best model, but hopefully I’m getting this award because people like to work with me. I work really hard on being nice. Why is that important to you? I’ve always respected nice people. It doesn’t matter how pretty you are if everybody hates working with you. I like making friends on set, and I make an effort to be nice to everyone, whether they’re the biggest photographer in the world or doing the catering. You never know when those people will be back in your life. What were the highlights of the past year? That’s hard to answer, because every experience has been a new highlight. Walking the Chanel show was definitely a highlight because after the fitting I met Karl [Lagerfeld] and Anna [Wintour], which was a thrill. As a newcomer to the runway world, it was a great first experience. Do you get nervous? I get less nervous with every show, which is why the Chanel show was so great. Every runway is different—you don’t know what shoes you’re walking in, or whether they are going to be painful or too big. Or maybe the floor is slippery! You’ve also graced your fair share of magazine covers. I think it’s weird to have them on my own coffee table at home, but I buy them at the airport when I’m on my way home to California to see my family. My mom leaves editorials open around the house, but I close them! What’s it like to be recognized? It’s still new to me. It’s always something that will be kind of weird. It’s nice to feel like your work is reaching so many people—I love interacting with my fans. Are you constantly being asked to take selfies? Yes, but it’s fun! It’s also a good way to remember all the people I meet. Why is being engaged in social media so important? Back in the day, models were only faces. My generation gets to have a voice, along with a face. We have the opportunity to be personalities! Your sister Bella [Hadid] is modeling as well. Do you give her advice? For sure! My mom gave me the ground rules of the fashion world and taught me certain things but left room for me to learn on my own. Experience made me grow so much. That said, I’m trying to be the kind of sister who lets Bella do her own thing. Obviously when she needs me, I’m there, but her own experiences will make her the best
model she can be, and she’s doing a great job. Where did you vacation over the holidays? I went to Dubai with some of my best friends, which was a great trip. I’d been working every day up until we left. On January 1st, I went skydiving, which was a really nice way to start the year. It was always on my bucket list. There is a second and a half where you know for sure that you shouldn’t be falling out of a plane and you’re afraid for your life, but then you realize you’re with a professional. It’s surreal. We also visited the mosque in Abu Dhabi. My dad is Muslim, so to connect with my background in that way was beautiful. You’re fronting the Guess campaign for Spring! I think I became the longest-running Guess girl ever, which is kind of cool—I’m going on almost 16 years. It’s a family that I always come back to. Paul Marciano has supported me from the very beginning and discovered me and guided me in my career and life. He’s my godfather now. I love him so much. Is L.A. having a moment? Definitely! Today, I was at a coffee shop, and everyone around looked like a fashion blogger. In New York, everyone is edgy, and I think this town is getting its own style and vibe. It’s exciting. I go back and forth between beachy chic when I’m here and a city girl street vibe when I’m in New York. You’ve worked with Jeremy Scott. I’m such a big fan of his work. His shows are ones that I always have an eye on, because I want to see what he’s doing next. He’s one of the most innovative and creative designers. I opened and closed his show, which was so fun. He’s also such a nice person, and he stands with you right when you’re about to walk the runway. He’s always so warm. Any acting aspirations? Definitely, but I’m really picky about the roles I read for. I don’t want to go into a movie that I don’t fully feel. I want to know what character I’m playing, and read the whole script and go into it wholeheartedly. Do you take acting lessons? I did a lot of theater when I was younger. I don’t have a lot of time now, but if I do read for a movie, I meet with my acting coach to prepare. Are you going back to college? I’m taking a leave of absence due to Fashion Weeks, but I’m working hard to get it done when I can. I don’t want to ask for special treatment. They can’t give me good grades when I’m absent a lot. It might take me a bit longer, but I’m hoping to get my degree as soon as possible.
super power
In the past year alone, Gigi Hadid has charmed Tom Ford, nabbed a major Guess campaign, graced myriad magazine covers, appeared in countless fashion spreads, and earlier this month became the new face of Maybelline New York. The secret to her success? It’s not just about beauty…BY EDDIE ROCHE PHOTOGRAPHY BY GILLES BENSIMON FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
“
I’ve always respected nice people. It doesn’t matter how pretty you are if everybody hates working with you.”
FA E N A : B FA N YC . C O M ; A L L OT H E R S C O U R T E S Y
CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN Shoe designer of the year
Congratulations on the launch of your beauty collection. It was big. I have been working on beauty for three years, and I just opened the first beauty store in Paris. Last year we opened 10 other stores. We have exactly 100 stores now. Are you ever not on a plane? I don’t necessarily fly just to visit stores. For instance, I’ve never been to the store in Chicago. I only recently went to Singapore to see the store and it’s been open for five years. But it does give me an excuse to see places. We have a store in Vietnam and I went to supposedly visit the store, which took me half a day, but then I stayed in the country for 10 days. The majority of my year is spent between Paris and Italy, where my factory is located. I’m sort of spinning around among Paris, Italy, Egypt, Brazil, Portugal, and the west of France, where I have a house. I go to these places to design different collections. Rappers, football stars, and fashion guys love your men’s shoes. You once told us that you would never design for men. What happened? It arrived by accident. This young pop star named Mika called and wanted me to do the shoes for his tour. I thought of show guys in the way I think of girls as showgirls and it made sense. In every man, there is a showman. Suddenly, with this in mind, it became very simple. I did a lot of shoes for Mika, and then I had an entire col-
lection. I put it out there and it did very, very well. A lot of music and sports people were my first customers. Hollywood adores you. Do you adore Hollywood? I do like Hollywood. To me, it is extremely exotic. Some cities are very international, but Hollywood is very concentrated on Hollywood. Hollywood is very self-centered, but it also pays attention to what is happening in the world. I like that mix of misplaced seriousness and complete frivolity. Every designer wants Louboutins, and you collaborate with cool young fashion houses like Rodarte. You must have to say no a lot. It’s not hard to say no, and it’s not always no forever. It’s often just a matter of time. I mostly favor people who are just starting out. A good shoe is really going to help the silhouette of their design. When I started my company, I was helped by a lot of different people, so I think it’s nice to help when people are starting their own things. I’m very detailorientated. When I collaborate on a show, I have to put myself in a different frame of mind. I never think of clothes when I design shoes. I always draw shoes on a naked girl. What have you got cooking in 2015? In personal matters, a lot. Otherwise, I’m building a hotel or two. One is a beautiful resort in the Maldives. Another is in America, and a third is in Portugal…very exciting. The beauty line, shoes, bags, and hotels… welcome to Le Monde Louboutin! I’m not a control freak, but I like to manage things from the beginning to the end, so it all takes me time. I can’t do everything. At this point, I’ve been asked to design cars, couches, clothing, even a fashion couture line. Nothing really excites me there. But there are things that totally make sense for me, like beauty. It needs to be connected to what I am doing at that moment. It’s often a happy accident. It’s been 23 years since I started my company. When I first designed a shoe, I had one store and I was very happy. Then it made sense to have a second one. But I didn’t think I would have 100 stores 20 years later. For me, not projecting into the future reminds me that I have no limits.
“Christian is my brother, my friend, my travel companion. He is talented, has more vital energy than anyone, is curious and loves life! He has an incredible eye and is a true artist.” —Diane von Furstenberg “Christian has always stayed true to his vision and never sacrificed his integrity as a designer. He is one of a kind, and his red sole will live forever.” —Rachel Zoe
Le Monde Louboutin
Bona fide shoe god Christian Louboutin continues to take over the planet with the launch of his eponymous beauty line (the nail polish bottles are shaped like a sexy spiked heel, bien sûr) and the opening of his 100th store, which is devoted to the brand-new and ever-expanding beauty collection. And did we mention that he’s now in the hotel business? BY PETER DAVIS
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
getty images (2); all others courtesy
“
I never think of clothes when I design shoes. I always draw shoes on a naked girl.�
MAZDACK RASSI
Fashion Innovator of the year How did Milk get started? We were one of the first to open in the Meatpacking District in New York. We started as a fashion photography studio in the ’90s, and we were very successful right away. Most of the other studios were owned by big photographers, and we were the first to open without really knowing photography. It was more about customer service and taking care of our friends, as well as being a cool and neutral space for everyone. My dream was for Milk to feel like walking into the Four Seasons, where everyone went to the Cornell School of Hotel Management but had tattoos and mohawks. That’s what separated us right away: We were more expensive than everywhere else, but we offered incredible service and production. What made the space a success? I didn’t want to be a space—I wanted to be a part of the creative process. So we opened our own gallery downstairs. After that, we quickly realized that the digital revolution in photography was starting, so we started our own film division, LEGS, in 2008, followed by a digital division, Agency, in 2013. Today’s generation doesn’t think, “I’m a writer” or “I’m a filmmaker.” They can do a little bit of everything, and surround themselves with like-minded people. What was the mission behind your space in Los Angeles? I wanted Milk to be architecturally outstanding and over-thetop, so we put together a creative space that was half museum, half working studios. We also knew we had to build a place for our celebrities—we wanted to create an extension of their beautiful homes and the hotels where they stay. Have you ever worried about spreading yourself too thin? No. All of this, believe it or not, was a natural extension. We make our own people, and at some point they grow, and we expand with them. The people who work here are very proud of the brand. What inspired your fashion week event, Made? Throughout the years, we held fashion shows at Milk, and we really learned how to put on the best level of production. When the economy crashed in 2008 and 2009, our young designer friends couldn’t afford to put on a show or presentation. Made was started by myself along with Milk’s Erez Shternlicht and Moishe Mana, Jenné Lombardo, who was with MAC at the time, and Keith Baptista, the best producer in the world. We rallied together to figure out a way for designers to show for free. If they could show, they could survive another season, and maybe retailers would buy a few things. In August 2009, I was on my honeymoon, and I called Jenné and said, “I’m really worried about these young designers.” She said, “I have an idea.” She talked to her boss, John Demsey, and within 48 hours we put a roster of 30 designers together. It’s still free of charge for the designers, and it’s become an incredible talent incubator.
Milk Studios’ L.A. outpost
Who does what? Jenné curates the talent and looks after designer relations; I deal with the digital content; and Keith handles the production. We built Made outside of the fashion industry—we were neutral, and that was our biggest benefit. We didn’t have to deal with the hurdles of an industry with a lot of baggage. And now, it’s going to be acquired by IMG. I still can’t talk about it, but good things need to grow, and sometimes you need great partnerships to grow with. What would you like to see happen with L.A.’s fashion scene? I’d like to see designers from L.A. or who call L.A. home—who have done well and are relevant—more involved in resurrecting L.A. fashion. They need to come together as guardians of L.A., to help young L.A. designers coming up. It just has to start with L.A. people, and then others can help out. What does L.A. mean to you? When I see huge palm trees, I feel my body start to loosen. My wife, Zanna [Roberts Rassi], and I rent a house in Hollywood. I do about one week a month in L.A. Anywhere still on your must-go list? As soon as my girls are old enough, you’ll find me at Disneyland. Is it harder to be bicoastal with your twins? It’s a huge juggle, but we have a lot of help. Having kids makes you get rid of a lot of crap in life; you get much more organized and focused. You still do the things you love, but you make better decisions. Actually, everything improves! How did you become a last-name-only guy? My father was a professor, so everyone called him Dr. Rassi or Rassi. My first name is pronounced “Nasdaq” with an “M,” but growing up, it was sometimes hard for people to say, so my brother and I went by Rassi, and it stuck. Do you often get asked about Milk’s name? All the time! When Milk started, I was looking for a word that was awesome from a design standpoint. I wrote down, like, 50 names, and architecturally, “milk” looks beautiful. It has nothing to do with meaning! How do you feel about actual milk? I love milk, especially with a cookie.
“I have come to know Rassi, and I admire his enthusiasm and genuine passion for supporting the next generation. He inspires those around him with his energy and spirit, making him truly deserving of this award.” —David Beckham “Rassi has an infectious passion for making things happen and a tasteful eye for new talent. He has done more to help support new talent at a grass-roots level than anyone I know. He’s a cultural force for positive change, a fashion and entertainment industry game changer.” —Jefferson Hack
CREATIVE FORCE
On any given month, many of those glossy covers dappling the newsstand were shot at L.A.’s Milk Studios. Mazdack Rassi, creative director of Milk’s West Coast and original NYC outposts, is the co-founder of a multipronged empire that extends far beyond the company’s origins in photography. BY ALEXANDRA ILYASHOV PHOTOGRAPHY BY GIORGIO NIRO FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
“
My dream was for Milk to feel like walking into the Four Seasons, where everyone went to the Cornell School of Hotel Management but had tattoos and mohawks.�
g e t t y i ma g e s ; b f a n y c . c o m
HERVÉ LÉGER Anniversary Tribute
Hervé Léger Spring 2015
Why is celebrating an anniversary important to you? It’s our history. It’s important to remember where we came from and where we are now. It’s great to reflect on our accomplishments and the brands that we built. We reflect back and move forward. It’s also great to encourage everyone—our colleagues and our customers. It has been an incredible experience! We didn’t start Hervé Léger. We bought the company and then it took us about six to seven years to figure out the process and determine how to relaunch it. What took so long? When we first acquired Hervé Léger, the biggest challenge was to keep it authentic. We tried to work with Hervé Léger himself, but that didn’t work out. We hired two other designers to follow in his footsteps, but that didn’t work out, either. We brought the line back to Los Angeles and I worked with technicians for about two years to figure out how to make it right. The brand is known for a particular way of handknitting—it’s not woven. Rachel Zoe is a very good friend, and she wanted to dress young celebrities like Nicole Richie in the line. The next thing we knew, they were on the cover of magazines like People and Us Weekly. Suddenly, there was a huge demand for the dresses, and we weren’t ready for it. Even today, it takes between three and six months to make one dress. It’s a true labor of love. Have you heard the name butchered over the years? Absolutely! In one of our first conversations with Hervé Léger, I asked him about his name being so difficult to pronounce. I asked him what Americans call him, and he looked at me and said, “Harvey Legger.” I lovingly refer to him as Harvey. You’re a rare example of a major American brand that is headquartered in Los Angeles. Why are you based there? The weather is a big part of it, and the other thing is the space. Our work space is incredible, and we have the most beautiful warehouse. We have light! We dress celebrities, and Hollywood is here. And also, the best flea markets! Are you based downtown? Yes. It’s been incredible to watch the changes over the past four years. Skid Row is still there, but people are embracing it. Before, downtown was vacant. We have the best restaurants downtown now. Now, we go for dinners at Church & State or to the theater. Even though L.A. is considered a big city, it’s always felt more like a town to me. Now with the
rebuilding of downtown, it’s truly becoming an urban city. Would you ever stage a fashion show in L.A.? We’ve thought about it. I wouldn’t do the major show, but I would consider Resort or Pre-Fall. The major shows have to be in New York due to the international press presence. Which designers are you friendly with in town? We know Juan Carlos Obando, Rachel Zoe, and Trina Turk, but we don’t get to hang out as much as I’d like. We need to find time to get together! Where did you and Max [Azria] meet? We met on a job interview. I was with my best friend shopping on Sunset Plaza and we walked into a store. The manager of the store was Max’s best friend. My good friend started a conversation with him and one thing led to another. She said that I was a designer and Victor, the manager, said, “My best friend owns a company called BCBG. They should really meet because he’s always looking for talented people.” They exchanged numbers, and I called Max and went in for an interview. On the interview, after looking at my portfolio and résumé, he only asked me one question: Was I detail-oriented or global? I told him that I’m very detail-oriented, and he hired me right there. No love at first sight! In our relationship it’s about respect first and love second. What did he mean by asking you if you were “global”? His English was very bad. When is your anniversary? July 11th. To celebrate, we have a white party, because I hated my wedding dress so much. Every year, I buy a new white dress and we redo our vows. Love that! How many years? We’re going on 25. How are you and Max able to work and live together? Respect for each other. He’s senior to me, and I have so much respect for what he has accomplished. He mentors me all the time. It also helps that his office is way on the other side of the building! We visit each other. We understand each other’s jobs and priorities. What were you like at 30? Very overwhelmed. I was married with three kids and three stepkids and a full-time job. I was a mess. Things are better now? Yes! I learned how to meditate.
FROCK ON
This year marks the 30th anniversary of Hervé Léger, a red-carpet mainstay and one of the few major American fashion houses to call Los Angeles home. The brand’s chief creative director Lubov Azria, who works day-to-day with her husband, Max Azria, explains the brand’s longevity and timeless appeal. BY EDDIE ROCHE
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
“
Even today, it takes between three and six months to make one dress.�
f i r st v i ew ( 3 ) ; p o rt ra i t: co u rt esy
In Full
Bloom
Spring’s graphic floral gowns have never felt fresher, especially on the risk-averse red carpet. Put all those boring ball gowns to shame!
Naeem Khan Spring 2015
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. c o m
Altuzarra Spring 2015
$4,590
Erdem Net-A-Porter.com
$6,983
Alexander McQueen, 8379 Melrose Ave., Beverly Hills, (323) 782-4983
$7,075
Dolce & Gabbana, 312 North Rodeo Dr., Beverly Hills, (310) 888-8701
$6,495
Dolce & Gabbana, 717 Fifth Ave., New York, (212) 897-9653
$2,765
Maticevski, Avenue32.com
$5,260
Vivienne Westwood Gold Label, MatchesFashion.com
$3,575
Katie Ermilio, Avenue32.com
$4,936
Nina Ricci, MatchesFashion.com
$1,950
Temperley London, TemperleyLondon.com R u n way: F i r s t V i e w ; All others courtesy
Gold
RUSH Remember when Meryl Streep arrived at the Oscars resplendent in a shimmering Lanvin gown that resembled the award itself ? She won the prize, so manifest your own destiny with these metallic add-ons that will work with every gown under consideration.
Cushnie et Ochs Spring 2015
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. c o m
$650
$895
Burberry London, 301 North Rodeo Dr., Beverly Hills, (310) 550-4500
Saint Laurent, MyTheresa.com
$1,530
Charlotte Olympia, MyTheresa.com
$645
Chelsea Paris, Barneys.com
$750
Giuseppe Zanotti, 9536 Brighton Way, Beverly Hills, (310) 550-5760
$300
Marc by Marc Jacobs, Net-A-Porter.com
$1,490 Lanvin, Saks.com
$1,095
Christian Louboutin, 650 North Robertson Blvd., West Hollywood, (310) 247-9300
$1,750
$795
Bottega Veneta, 457 North Rodeo Dr., Beverly Hills, (310) 858-6533
Jimmy Choo, 240 North Rodeo Dr., Beverly Hills, (310) 860-9045
$2,858
$755
Dolce & Gabbana, 312 North Rodeo Dr., Beverly Hills, (310) 888-8701
$770
Isabel Marant, Fwrd.com
Aquazurra, MyTheresa.com
$1,095 Edie Parker, Saks.com
$595
Manolo Blahnik, Barneys.com
$2,360
Lee Savage, Net-A-Porter.com R u n way: F i r s t V i e w ; A l l ot h e r s c o u r t e s y
spree
Shop The
outnet “Designers gave black and white a fresh, modern makeover for S/S 15. Keep it sleek after dark and nod to the trend with Adam Lippes’ deceptively simple little white dress—it’s a refreshing alternative to the timeless LBD. This piece becomes your new wear-it-anywhere essential, thanks to cut-out details, sheer effects, and delicate embroidery. Complete the look and add a shot of color with a red lip and matching nails.” —Eve Thomas, Fashion Director of The Outnet
Giambattista Valli Fall 2014 Couture
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. c o m
$1,153
Donna Karan, Printed silk halterneck gown
$297
Raoul, Crepe peplum gown
$1,987
$2,676
Vionnet, Assymetric colorblock crepe gown
Balmain, Ruched silksatin gown
$285
$330
Sophia Webster, Ria matte and patent leather pumps
$175
$168
Zac Zac Posen, Textured leather clutch
Oscar de la Renta, Petali paneled satin pumps
Jil Sander, Leather trimmed PVC clutch
$580
Adam Lippes, Crepe and pleated chiffon dress
$996
Stella McCartney, Dyana jacquard dress
$242
Carven, Glossed faux raffia dress
$718
Vera Wang, Printed silk gazar dress
firstview; all others courtesy
Beauty Dossier
GORGEOUS
GAZE
Any Hollywood starlet worth her salt knows that in a world where beauty is currency, the magic lies in the face. No wonder so much attention is directed toward the runway, where the most transformational makeup originates. Behold the Spring ’15 trends that are sure to charm even the most discerning red-carpet regulars.
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
When it comes to the luxe lined lid trend, go bold or go home. At Thom Browne’s show, multiple layers of liner created a three-dimensional look.
firstview
Beauty Dossier
The eyes have it, as seen on Lindsey Wixson at Fendi
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
Clockwise: Master Kajal Eyeliner in Onyx Rush, $7.99; Baby Lips Lip Balm in Quenched, $3.99; both available at Maybelline.com
BLUE
As evidenced by Goldie Hawn’s iconic look in Cactus Flower, there’s nothing like a touch of aqua to amp up the eyes.
get the
look First, line the top of the lids in black, then add a swath of blue with chalky shadow that compliments your complexion, and complete the effect with neutral lip gloss. everett collection; firstview; getty images
Beauty Dossier
1960s vibes at Tommy Hilfiger
FAS SH HIIO ON NW WE EE EK KD DA AIIL LY. Y.C CO OM M FA
Clockwise: Fit Me Concealer in Light, $6.49; Eye Studio Color Tattoo Leather in Dramatic Black, $6.99; both available at Maybelline.com
rock GODDESS No matter what stage you plan to grace, a shimmery eye with a bit of smudge will make you the star of the show.
get the
look
Keep the rest of the face bare, and focus on an elaborately layered mix of liner and shadow in shades of noir and gray. A touch of metallic silver shadow easily takes this from awards show to after-party. G ETT Y I M AG ES ( 2) ; f i r s t v i e w
Beauty Dossier
Beachy sheen at DKNY
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
Clockwise: Dream Smooth Mousse in Natural Beige, $9.79; Fit Me Bronzer in Medium Bronze, $5.50; both available at Maybelline.com
sun swept
Going for the bronze certainly worked for Bo Derek and Kate Hudson.
get the
look After applying foundation and full-coverage concealer, gently add blush to the apples of the cheeks before giving the face an allover dusting of bronzer. Finish with a touch of highlighter on your forehead, cheekbones, and chin, blending outward.
b fa n yc . c o m ; e v e r e t t collection; firstview
Beauty Dossier
future
perfect Otherworldly eyes (and matching brows!) at Alexander McQueen
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
firstview
Beauty Dossier
The eternally girly combination of pink and purple becomes wickedly chic when done in smoky, muted shades.
Clockwise: Eye Studio Color Tattoo Pure Pigments Loose Powder Shadow mixture of Potent Purple and Pink Rebel, $6.99; Potent Purple pigment, Eye Studio Lasting Drama Gel Eyeliner in Eggplant, $9.99; all available at Maybelline.com
violet
In the realm of beauty, purple is the warmest color.
get the
look
It all begins with a soft eye in various shades of aubergine as seen on It mod Daphne Groeneveld at Vera Wang’s Spring 2015 show. Blend in a hint of pink to get a warmer shade. And don’t limit your work to the above-the-eye region—a 360-degree approach is crucial to achieve the desired effect.
Beauty Dossier
MOODY EYES
Does it get any better than Diane von Furstenberg’s ode to Bardot?
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
firstview everett collection; f i r s t v i e w; g e t t y i m ag e s
Beauty Dossier
A punchy pout at Jean Paul Gaultier
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
Clockwise: Color Sensational Lip Liner in Red, $6.49; Color Sensational Vivids in On Fire Red, $7.49; Color Sensational The Creamy Mattes in Siren in Scarlet, $7.49; all available at Maybelline.com
fiERy lips From Rita Hayworth to Naomi Watts, everything is looking better off red, n’est-ce pas?
get the
look
Liner is key to prevent color from bleeding; opt for a shade that’s slightly lighter than your lipstick.
e v e r e t t c o l l e c t i o n ; f i r s t v i e w; g e t t y i m ag e s
Beauty Dossier
Cara Delevingne’s minimal appeal at Givenchy
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
Clockwise: Dream Wonder Powder in Porcelain Ivory, $9.99; Face Studio Master Hi-Light in Light Bronze, Expertwear Eye Shadow Duos in Dusk, $4.50; all available at Maybelline.com
BEYOND
the PALE Not exactly a sun worshipper? No problem. Get your Gwyneth on, minus the rays, with the latest, greatest rosy nudes.
get the
look
e v e r e t t c o l l e c t i o n ; f i r s t v i e w; g e t t y i m ag e s
Mixing peach with bronze will work on many skin tones. The nomakeup makeup trend works best when you add some pop to your pout—it worked for Meryl!
Beauty Dossier
THE TOTAL
PACKAGE
Red lips, cat eyes, a sun-kissed glow, and a sexy coif窶馬obody can master it better than top mod Gigi Hadid on the Jean Paul Gaultier runway. So Hollywood, non?
Clockwise: Fit Me ShineFree Foundation in Natural Beige, $8.99; Eye Studio Master Smoky Longwearing Shadow Pencil in Black Smoke, $7.99; Color Elixir by Color Sensational in Signature Scarlet, $8.99; The Nudes Palette, $11.99; all available at Maybelline.com
Marlene D
ietrich i
n Blond
e Venus
circa 19
32
get the
look Start with a flawless, matte complexion. Line the eyes with black, then blend together neutral eyeshadows for a smoky effect. Finish with a saturated red lip gloss.
everett collection; firstview
CHIC Gent
“
Perfume is an art, and I find no art in shower gel.”
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
Scents & SENSIBILITY
Perfumer Kilian Hennessy hails from a storied lineage of luxury (his family is the “H” in LVMH), so it’s no wonder he inherited an innate understanding of entrepreneurship and taste. Under his fragrance label By Kilian, founded in 2007, Hennessy is combining the quality presentation of turn-of-the-century parfums with a visionary approach to the craft. BY PAIGE REDDINGER PHOTOGRAPHY BY GIORGIO NIRO What’s your backstory? I’ve been in the industry for almost 20 years. I started at Dior and then Paco Rabanne. I stayed there for four years until I resigned to join Gucci Group. I worked on Alexander McQueen’s first perfume, Kingdom, for almost three years until I resigned again to join the L’Oréal group to work on Giorgio Armani. After three years, I left to start my own company. What was your concept? Something that no longer existed. One night after dinner in Paris, I went by the Baccarat museum. There was an exhibition covering 100 years of perfume bottles. You would see those wood coffers, satin bedding, keys, and tassels, and I thought, this is exactly what I want to do. Which retailer launched your brand? Bergdorf Goodman. I ended up dating the buyer, so it went really well! [laughs] Elisabeth [Noel Jones] and I got married in Paris last summer. What scents do your L.A. clients love? My most beautiful and sensual scents. Women are drawn toward Good Girl Gone Bad, and men toward Straight to Heaven. Do you have many celebrity fans? Yes, but to be totally honest, I find it very tacky and opportunistic to use their names to sell products. What’s your signature scent? Usually it’s the perfume I’m working on, but when I go out at night, I wear Back to Black Aphrodisiac and Amber Oud. On weekends, when I want to feel more casual, I wear Bamboo Harmony, Imperial Tea, Prelude to Love, and three of our new scents that came out this October. New scents? Tell us more. Amy Adams with a I was thinking about how addictions can translate into By Kilian clutch the world of perfume. Light My Fire has cigar notes—not tobacco. Intoxicated was inspired by my travels in the Middle East and a coffee I adore that’s scented with cardamom seeds. The third scent is about addiction to cannabis; I call it Smoke for the Soul. If you’re arrested, you can show your bottle and say, “Not me! It’s Kilian’s fault!” We’ll keep that in mind. Why are your scents unisex? I don’t feel like scents should be gendered. What interests me is the link or the olfactory translation of the emotion carried by the name. You just launched a scented jewelry line. How does that work? I always had the ambition to make perfume visible. We started
with necklaces that have a hidden vial, but people have been doing that since the 1920s. Now there’s a new revolution in the scenting process. It’s called micro-encapsulation, which allows you to encapsulate a scent into a microcapsule that can be injected in the fabric itself. In the jewelry collection, the silk cords and leather bracelets are micro-encapsulated. The scent will last for about a year. Wow. What are the other aesthetic signatures? Every metal piece has a cage element, and inside is a ceramic piece that captures the scent. Once you have chosen the style you like, you can pick one of my 26 scents to put into the ceramic piece. Whenever it’s no longer smelling, you can just re-spray the ceramic. Why don’t you make lotions? Perfume is an art, and I find no art in shower gel. Luxury should not be disposable. Everything we create has the ultimate purpose of lasting a lifetime. That’s why all our bottles are refillable and our boxes are meant to be reusable. The box from my collection “In the Garden of Good and Evil” turns into a clutch, and the box from my latest collection, “Addictive State of Mind,” turns into a cigar box. What does your bespoke offering entail? It’s a luxury offering for customers who want to create their own scent with me. During the first meeting, I try to understand what it is in the world that you would like. Maybe you love orange blossom, but you don’t like the scents on the market. Kyra Sedgwick with a Chic! May we ask the price? By Kilian clutch $30,000. I just finished one for a husband and wife in Hungary. I finished one for a Saudi Arabian princess, and I am working on another for a customer from New York City. What’s next? We opened three Kilian boutiques in 2014 in Paris, Lugano, and Doha, and we are planning to open another three by the end of 2015. I am launching a new flacon early this year that will be available in all my scents, created with Saint Louis, the oldest European manufacturer of crystal glass. This spring, you will see color at Kilian! I partnered with the immensely talented painter, Sophie Matisse, to create three designs that express freshness. They will be painted on my bottles. And in the fall, we will be launching an entirely new category of products: home. GETTY IMAGES (2)
chic Historique
sunset tower~ology Although it’s been holding court on the Sunset Strip for nearly 100 years, the iconic Sunset Tower Hotel has never felt more vibrant. From its humble-ish beginnings as the Los Angelean abode of Howard Hughes to its modern incarnation as Hollywood’s hautest hangout, the Sunset’s storied past is just as fascinating as its A-list regulars. By zachary weiss
Meet Dimitri!
You haven’t arrived in this town until Dimitri Dimitrov knows your name. As the heart and soul of the Tower Bar, this legendary maître d’ explains why taking care of your every need isn’t a job for him, it’s a lifestyle. BY EDDIE ROCHE Illustration by logan Samuelson
Everybody knows you! I’ve spent 35 years in these few square miles. Where did you work before Sunset Tower? L’Ermitage, where I was for a short time, but before that, I was at Diaghilev restaurant. Johnny Depp and Sean Penn were regulars. It was rated No. 1 by Zagat for service for many years. When Jeff Klein bought this building 10 years ago, he was telling Angelica Huston, Tom Ford, and Mitch Glazer that he didn’t have anyone to run this gorgeous space. Tom wrote down my name on a coaster. What makes the Tower Bar so special? It starts with the building—it has a story. Everyone lived here at a certain point in the 1940s and ’50s. Howard Hughes had four or five apartments. And then there’s Jeff Klein! He’s the leader; I provide the service. How does it feel to be the gatekeeper? First, I’m a restaurant and hotel man, so I’m hardcore into service. We are trying our hardest to put out the best possible food with a menu that is very familiar. And when you are dining in the neighborhood of somebody of note, your dining experience is enhanced. People love to be surrounded by success. I make sure the arrangements of the tables click. Betsy Bloomingdale might be at one table, and Taylor Swift at another. Do you deliberately steer certain parties away from one another? Of course! Ex-lovers come to mind, but more commonly, we pay attention to the politics of the business, like when talent leaves one agency to move to another. So you study the trades! Variety and The Hollywood Reporter are must-reads. What do you love most about your job? I came here from Macedonia, which is a little country, and as a young kid, I dreamed about this faraway country. Being in the middle of this amazing town and all these people…wow. For me, it’s everything. But it’s never about me—I love seeing people enjoying themselves. Whether it’s a family gathering or Brad Grey after a tremendous meeting at Paramount, everyone wants to relax and enjoy. Do you feel appreciated by the industry? Of course! It’s the greatest feeling. It’s nothing monetary, but to be appreciated by your bosses, the owners, and the investors is the greatest feeling. I look for-
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
ward to coming to work. They look after me. Bryan Lourd recently told me that I’m the best at what I do, which made my night and gave me such confidence. Do you ever get starstruck? Johnny Depp calls me a friend and I’m like, “Oh, my God! I can’t sleep!” It’s incredible. He’s a global superstar and he’s so humble. Do you go to the movies a lot? Of course. I see 40 or 50 movies a year, usually the ones that star my clients, because I want to tell them that I saw their movies. The Remains of the Day is one of my favorites—it’s a movie about a butler who has dedicated his life to service. Have you ever made a cameo appearance? I did a scene for Peter Bogdanovich last summer in She’s Funny That Way with Jennifer Aniston. We were insanely busy, but Peter called Jeff and said, “We need Dimitri for three days on set in New York.” We normally refuse most offers—I’m a serious hotel man. I don’t want to be seen like, “Dimitri is acting here and there.” It will dilute my profession. But in this film, I was playing myself. I’ll also be doing something with Bill Murray and Sofia Coppola. Bill is our adorable client, and I also adore Sofia. We can’t say no! Who do people say you look like? Sometimes De Niro; sometimes Scorsese. You’re very dapper. I get advice. Tom Ford helps. I’m wearing his cologne now. Tom is beyond fashion. He’s so deep, it’s insane. The movie he directed for the first time… crazy good. What do you wear? I wear Prada pants that are similar to what Ralph Fiennes wears in The Grand Budapest Hotel. Prada based them on old hotel uniforms. My tie is Band of Outsiders. I have two dozen. Scott Sternberg provides them. Do you treat yourself well? I think so. I live by myself in old Hollywood. How do you handle customers who come in and just want to stargaze? I’m not bad to them, but they will not have the table that our regular clients are going to get. But we’re not just here for bold-faced names in motion pictures. Dr. Bruce Gewertz is the surgeon-in-chief at Cedars-Sinai, and he’s a tremendous VIP to us. I’m a student of achievements.
‹ 1931
The Sunset Tower opens! The Leland A. Bryant–designed Art Deco masterpiece includes “modern amenities” like bathroom outlets. The entire project costs a whopping $750,000.
1940s ›
Eccentric billionaire playboy Howard Hughes holes up on the entire top floor of the hotel, now split into two penthouses. He was rumored to also have kept several mistresses in separate rooms on the hotel’s 14th floor.
‹ 1944
Mobster Bugsy Siegel takes up residence on the ground floor, decorated well enough to earn it a spread in Architectural Digest. The space is now the hotel’s terrace restaurant.
1947 ›
Truman Capote moves in. “I am living in a very posh establishment, the Sunset Tower, which, or so the local gentry tell me, is where every scandal that ever happened happened,” he wrote in a letter.
1950s ›
Frank Sinatra moves into the hotel, and proposes to Ava Gardner.
1960s
The hotel begins to empty out as hippies infiltrate Sunset Blvd.
‹ 1970
Elvis Presley is rumored to have proposed to Cybill Shepherd in the hotel’s driveway.
‹ 1985
Hotelier Peter de Savary purchases The Tower from architect David Lawrence Fray. He plans to transform the spot into the first U.S. outpost of his luxury hotel group, The St. James’ Club, a popular clubhouse for David Bowie.
1992
The Lancaster Group buys the hotel from de Savary and renames it The Argyle.
‹ 2004
Jeff Klein purchases the hotel. He tells Vanity Fair, “I don’t want Lindsay Lohan drinking $16 Cosmos in here.”
2007 ›
P. Diddy is turned away from CAA’s Golden Globes Party; Helen Mirren breezes past the velvet rope.
‹ 2008
The hotel is a hideout for Jennifer Aniston and then-boyfriend John Mayer.
2011 ›
Joan Collins is transported to the hospital after wearing a tootight dress to Vanity Fair’s Oscar party. She called the incident a “Victorian swoon.”
2015
The Daily hosts its first-annual Fashion Los Angeles Awards at the hotel.
g etty i m a g es ( 6 ) ; p a t r i c k m c m u l l a n . c o m ( 2 ) ; e v e r ett c o l l e c t i o n ; a l l o the r s c o u r tesy
DIVINE Dish
Chicest
NIGHT+MARKET SONG Kris Yenbamroong, chef
2015 EDITION
EATS Where are vous chowing down these days? Probably at these 10 delicious hautespots. BY ALEXANDRA ILYASHOV and DENA SILVER
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
What’s your grub? Northern and Northeastern specialties that either aren’t commonly available or aren’t usually prepared with much love and care. Think fiery salads, house-made sausage, and catfish tamales. Favorite dish? Nam Khao Tod, a crispy rice salad. What do you wear in the kitchen? APC Jeans, beat-up boots, a Supreme snapback, and a HUF beanie. Which L.A. restaurant excites you right now? Sotto is experiencing a resurgence. You can have a quiet Sunday supper or party pretty hard there— that’s the sort of place we strive to be as well. NIGHT+MARKET Song, 3322 W. Sunset Blvd.; NIGHT+MARKET Weho, 9041 Sunset Blvd.
REPUBLIQUE
Walter Manzke, chef and owner What’s your favorite French classic? Steak and fries! We serve ours with a green salad with lots of herbs, so it’s light, crisp, and refreshing. Which pastries tend to sell out fastest during the morning rush? Our bomboloni, savory hand pies, and, of course, the pain au chocolat. My wife, Marge, makes them with butter from France; the dough is fermented for two days, and they’re baked fresh every morning. 624 S. La Brea Ave.
A.O.C
Suzanne Goin, chef and co-owner Any tricks to snagging a coveted reservation? Come around 6 p.m. and sit at the communal table. What’s the most Instagrammable dish on the menu? Our brioche with prosciutto, Gruyère, and egg. Any recent additions to the menu? Black cod, artichokes barigoule, and Meyer lemon aioli. I also love the chilispiced pork shank served with a kabocha gratin, pepitas, and pumpkinseed oil. 8700 W. Third St.
SOHO HOUSE WEST HOLLYWOOD
TROIS MEC
Ludo Lefebvre, executive chef and co-owner
Michael Magliano, chef
What’s the most coveted table in the restaurant? I love the southeast corner of the garden. The tables have couches, and in the evening it has the best view looking out toward downtown L.A. What’s your top dish du moment? Our burrata! We source it from Angelo and Franco, a cheesemaker in Torrance, Italy. A fresh batch is shipped to us twice a week. Any fave screening-room snacks? Our popcorn! We pop it with truffle oil and finish it off with truffle salt. Does the menu nod to London? The Eaton Mess, which was on our original menu. We have since taken it off, but we make it on request. It’s made with whipped cream, house-made meringue, fresh berries, and jam. 9200 Sunset Blvd.
Favorite dish on the menu? Caramelized eel, white chocolate mashed potato, green apple. What does Trois Mec add to the scene? A new restaurant concept; it’s completely different from anything else in L.A. Our guests purchase advance tickets, and there is a set menu. People have been very open-minded; they enjoy the opportunity for someone to “program” their evening. How did Petit Trois crop up next door in July? We were missing the classic French food and ambiance of a neighborhood bistro. The location next door became available, so we knew it was right. Where can we find you on your days off? With my family. The kids love the beach and Disneyland. 716 N. Highland Ave.
ALMA
BAR MARMONT
What’s one of your personal greatest hits? We do a dessert called Frozen Summer, with licorice, sorrel, chamomile, and lemon balm. I also love our English muffin snack with uni, burrata, caviar, and herbs. Why the name Alma? Alma means soul, and it’s a street in my hometown of Palo Alto. Where can we find you on your days off? Sometimes I take my dog to Ojai, or I’ll go for coffee downtown at Spring. I love Bar Stella for drinks, and my three favorite restaurants are Badmaash, Sqirl, and Pine and Crane—they all rule! 952 S. Broadway St.
Any new menu additions? Osetra caviar and crème fraîche on a zucchini crepe, seared diver scallops with New England clam chowder, and carrot griddle cakes with house-smoked salmon and avocado. Most popular room-service dishes? The Marmont burger and the Spaghetti Bolognese. What’s your favorite cocktail du jour? My current favorite is an Old Pal—made with Rittenhouse Rye, dry vermouth, and Campari. 8171 W. Sunset Blvd.
Ari Taymor, chef and owner
Carolynn Spence, executive chef
CECCONI’S
Andrea Cavaliere, executive chef of Cecconi’s and Soho House North America
FREDS AT BARNEYS NEW YORK Mark Strausman, executive chef
Which cocktail would you suggest indulging in before a shopping spree? The Troublemaker—it’s named after me, of course! It’s made with Belvedere vodka, Bonal, strawberry, cucumber, and lime. You have great views! Our new terrace overlooks Wilshire Boulevard. You can see all of Beverly Hills and the Hollywood sign is off in the distance. 9570 Wilshire Blvd.
A L L P H O T O S co u r t e sy
Why does the fashion flock love Cecconi’s? We created Fashion for Breakfast as a weekly series to celebrate the fashion community in L.A., featuring hosts and moderated interviews. We’ve had Lubov Azria, Chiara Ferragni, and Anine Bing. Favorite authentic Italian dish? Our cicchetti—Venetian tapas—reflect how people eat in Italy. We’ve brought that here with our aperitivo menu. Favorite time of year in the kitchen? White truffle season! We have a great relationship with the Truffle Brothers. We’re always one of the first U.S. restaurants to receive a shipment. 8764 Melrose Ave.
BESTIA
Ori Menashe, chef and co-owner, and Genevieve Gergis, pastry chef and co-owner What’s an ideal meal at Bestia? Ori: Start with the chicken gizzard and veal tartare. For the second course, mussels, clams, and burrata pizza. After that, a pasta course—pici with the lamb ragu. Then the pork tomahawk chop with Genevieve’s little gems salad. For dessert, sour tangerine sorbet and persimmon rice pudding. What’s the best thing about working with your spouse? Geneveive: We fight less! We don’t have the added pressure to fit time in for each other. Also, we constantly have each other’s support. Plus, having our baby in the restaurant and watching her taste things for the first time is amazing. 2121 E. Seventh Pl.
CHIC Overs
AMY PASCAL
She’s got the executive chic thing down pat-ish, but as her correspondence has suggested, the Sony exec lacks a certain sense of humor. Fashion to the rescue!
Hollywood’s Most-Discussed!
SCOTT RUDIN
The super producer has occasionally let his temper get the best of him. Why so angry, chéri? These high-concept looks are guaranteed to lighten your mood.
SETH ROGEN AND JAMES FRANCO
‹ Talk about an exposé we can get behind! This Acne Studios office garb will have everybody talking…in a good way!
The beleaguered stars are presenting a unified front. Why not dress the part?
‹ A mesh Moschino ensemble will show the world you’ve got nothing to hide. › Nothing about you is boring, so why suffer with mainstream eveningwear? Astound your Oscar seatmates with Julien David’s neoprene tux.
Thom Browne Spring ’15
› Why not wear this armor from Comme des Garçons? Guaranteed to keep all enemies at bay. Who couldn’t use a bit of ˆBetsey Johnson’s youthful spirit and joie de vivre?
Versace Spring ’15
Astrid Andersen Spring ’15
‹ Still feeling like hiding out? This JW Anderson style will guarantee your anonymity. FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
‹ When it comes to repairing relationships, a little harmless flirting goes a long way. This Giamba frock gets the job done!
Rick Owens Spring ’15
› Your obsession with le fric hardly makes you unique in Hollywood, so let this Moschino number proclaim your individuality.
‹ You’re impervious to attack; your clothes should be the same. Order a KTZ shield top immédiatement! › Been hitting the gym, have you? Prove your prowess in a skirt/sleeve combo from Sibling. f i r s t v i e w ( 1 8) ; g e t t y i m ag e s ( 1 0)
The Art of Discovery Hollywood Stars Reveal Their Inspirations
“It’s an easy book to get lost in.” - VanityFair.com The Art of Discovery is a collection of deeply personal stories from artists and celebrities about their moments of inspiration and discovery, brought to you by a collaboration of photographer Jeff Vespa, The Creative Coalition’s Robin Bronk, art director Nancy Rouemy, Renaissance Hotels, and Rizzoli New York.
Available for purchase on Amazon.com and other major online retailers.
S:10.25”
NOW, IT’S TIME FOR PASTELS TO REBEL.
S:13”
NEW REBEL BLOOM A KICKY BURST OF PINKS, REDS AND MAUVES. Super-saturated pigments take pastels to a new bright. Honey nectar adds a sumptuous feel. 10 vivacious shades.
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Kemp is wearing New Color Sensational® Rebel Bloom Lipcolor in Power Peony. ©2015 Maybelline LLC.