Culinaire #12.6 (November 2023) by Culinaire Magazine

A L B E R TA / F O O D & D R I N K / R E C I P E S N OV E M B E R 2 02 3

International Cuisine and Local Spices | Exciting Wines | Belgian Beer

INTL SPIRITS

C M

TITION

2022 N

D WINNE

contents

Volume 12 / No. 6 / November 2023

departments 6

Salutes and Shout Outs

Book Reviews

Chefs’ Tips and Tricks

News from Alberta’s culinary scene

Okanagan Eats by Dawn Postnikoff and Joanne Sasvari Slow and steady

38 Making the Case ...for greatness!

40 Etcetera…

What’s new?

42 Open That Bottle

With Chris Fodor City & Country Urban Winery & Tasting Bar

22 Off the Menu

Sensei Bar’s Shiitake Baklava By Linda Garson

Calgary’s Dr. Robert Berdan has discovered that tartaric acid crystals (“wine diamonds”) can produce beautiful images when photographed with a polarizing microscope at 100x. Many thanks to Dr. Berdan for the outstanding photograph of Niagara-on-the-Lake’s Icellars Estate Winery Sauvignon Blanc crystals on our cover. See more of Dr. Berdan's photography at canadiannaturephotographer.com/wine_ crystals.html

26 A Taste of Heritage and Success

…preserving authentic Filipino cuisine by Katherine Puhl

16 Ultimate Comfort:

28 November Spirits

18 International

30 Curry Around the World…

Rich and beefy, classic pot roast by Renée Kohlman

ON THE COVER

Cookbook Roundup Six books to spark your imagination

by Culinaire Magazine

20 They Could Stand the Heat… but it was time to get out of the kitchen by Lucy Haines

22 Spice Up Your life:

Alberta-based spice companies trade in freshness and flavour by Elizabeth Chorney-Booth

Whiskies from afar By Tom Firth and Linda Garson

from India, the Caribbean, and Japan by Natalie Findlay

34 Spice Up Your Winter Simple suggestions for popular spices By Erika Ravnsborg

36 Don’t Waffle on Belgian Style Beers

Common styles and local examples by David Nuttall November 2023 | Culinaire 3

LETTER FROM THE EDITOR

Diversity…

t’s what keeps life interesting as well as inclusive, and it’s always been at the heart of Culinaire - our bedrock. I see an increasing number of seminars on how to be more inclusive in the workplace, as well as in publishing and storytelling, and I’m saddened that we should have to take courses to learn how to do this, that it isn’t instinctive and a natural part of our makeup. From the day we started, twelve and a half years ago, we’ve talked about and celebrated the hardworking producers, ranchers, growers and farmers, talented chefs, brewers and distillers, and artisans of Alberta without any additional consideration of ethnicity, religion, colour, or leaning – is what they do or produce worth telling you and talking about? It doesn’t seem that much of the world is thinking along these lines though,

and we seem to be seeing an increasing amount of intolerance and hatred. I feel privileged to live in Alberta where it feels like the majority of people I meet are immigrants from other provinces or, like myself, other countries. And I feel proud of this province that we’re made to feel welcome, that our experiences from our earlier lives add to the culture and don’t dilute it, and that people from outside the province can contribute and enrich society in every sense – and particularly in our world - the culinary world of flavours and taste. This issue is a celebration of the diversity in our province, in our

restaurants and multifarious choices of cuisines right on our doorstep. We’ve focused largely on spices, whether in recipes or books, and the people who make them. This doesn’t detract from our belief in supporting local, however. Our local is multicultural and diverse, just as the people we feature in Culinaire, and I hope that we can broaden your horizons even a little with the articles in this issue. Do you like our front cover this issue? It is a bit of a departure from photographs of food or beverages; it’s crystals in wine, and we find the colours and patterns so beautiful and fascinating - it really is an example of wine as art! Cheers

Linda, Editor-in-Chief

For gifts that will never be re-gifted. Grocery. Bakery. Deli. Café. EDMONTON | CALGARY | SHERWOOD PARK

Alberta / Food & Drink / Recipes Editor-in-Chief/Publisher Linda Garson linda@culinairemagazine.ca Managing Editor Tom Firth tom@culinairemagazine.ca Multimedia Editor Keane Straub keane@culinairemagazine.ca Communications Assistant Katherine Puhl katherine@culinairemagazine.ca Design Kendra Design Inc Contributors Elizabeth Chorney-Booth Natalie Findlay, Lucy Haines Dong Kim, Renée Kohlman Katherine Puhl, Erika Ravnsborg Keane Straub

To read about our talented team of contributors, please visit us online at culinairemagazine.ca.

Contact us at: Culinaire Magazine #1203, 804–3rd Avenue SW Calgary, AB T2P 0G9 403.870.9802 info@culinairemagazine.ca @culinairemag @culinairemag facebook.com/CulinaireMagazine For subscriptions, competitions and to read Culinaire online: culinairemagazine.ca

Our contributors Elizabeth Chorney-Booth

Busy freelance writer and broadcaster, Elizabeth writes about food, travel, and many other topics. In addition to contributing to Culinaire, national and international publications, she is a Globe and Mail bestselling cookbook author and a regular contributor to CBC Radio and the Calgary Herald. A lover of food, travel, music, and community, when Elizabeth isn't out searching for something delicious, she’s likely to be found curled up with a good book.

Katherine Puhl

Katherine is a communications professional with a degree in journalism. As a writer passionate about all things culinary, she has developed a deep appreciation of a brand's essence, and is dedicated to helping food businesses thrive through effective communication and storytelling. Her passion extends to exploring and understanding various culinary traditions, from street food to haute cuisine.

Erika Ravnsborg

Erika is a freelance writer who has been writing ever since she was a child. Her love of storytelling is fuelled by her love of adventure. Always ready to inform the world of the best things that are happening whether it is a new restaurant opening, a new dish to try, or the best hidden gems in local communities, she will be happy to tell you all about it.

Culinaire Magazine acknowledges that we live, work and play on the traditional territories of the Blackfoot Confederacy (Siksika, Kainai, Piikani), the Tsuut'ina, the Îyâxe Nakoda Nations, the Métis Nation (Region 3), and all people who make their home in the Treaty 7 region of Southern Alberta. All Trademarks presented in this magazine are owned by the registered owner. All advertisements appearing in this magazine are the sole responsibility of the person, business or corporation advertising their product or service. For more information on Culinaire Magazine’s Privacy Policy and Intention of Use, please see our website at www.culinairemagazine.ca. All content, photographs and articles appearing in this magazine are represented by the contributor as original content and the contributor will hold Culinaire Magazine harmless against any and all damages that may arise from their contribution. All public correspondence, which may include, but is not limited to letters, e-mail, images and contact information, received by Culinaire Magazine becomes the property of Culinaire Magazine and is subject to publication. Culinaire Magazine may not be held responsible for the safety or return of any unsolicited manuscripts, photographs and other materials. Reproduction of this publication in whole or in part without written consent from Culinaire Magazine is strictly prohibited.

TO FIND A RETAILER VISIT: LIQUORCONNECT.COM/+872295 @pws_canada @pacific_canada @pacificcanada

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SA LUTE S & S H O UT O UT S A salute to one of the best: we are enormously saddened at the passing of Kathy Richardier, co-owner and editor/ publisher of Calgary’s City Palate magazine from 1993 until its close in 2019. She was always there, observing, recording, writing about, and playing a huge part in the city’s transition from a meat and potatoes city to the vastly diverse culinary scene of today – always supporting local, and always with a sense of adventure, joie de vivre, and a hearty laugh that we will miss. Congrats to 2023 YYC Pizza Fest Winners… Top Rated Pizza: Pazzi Pizzeria, Most Popular Pizza: Actually Pretty Good, Most innovative Pizza: Cravings Market Restaurant and Cravings, Best Crust: The Dandy Brewing Company - and the biggest winner, Calgary Meals on Wheels, with each pizza bought, $4 is donated to this very worthwhile cause. Irrational Brewing Company has opened Sub Room, an event space in an 85-year-old art deco railway substation that provided the electricity for Edmonton’s streetcar system. Now beautifully restored, the heritage building at 10643 124 Street has been transformed into a unique space for corporate gatherings, wedding, parties and more, irrationalbrewing.ca Calgary’s expanding University District has a new hotel! In addition to the Le Germain Hotel downtown and Alt Hotel East Village, Germain Hotels have opened a second Alt Hotel in the centre of the University District at 482 McLaurin Street NW. The new 15-storey LEED-certified property has 155 guest rooms, of which 16 are carefully designed accessible rooms, and while there’s no shortage of places to eat and drink in the area, later this autumn we’ll see a restaurant and full-service coffee shop on the main floor. Chef Shaun Hicks has opened his first restaurant in Edmonton’s former Three Boars space in Garneau. From the Sugarbowl 20 years ago, you’ll have seen Chef Hicks at Woodwork, Wishbone, Three Boars, and La Petite Iza, and now his own 45-seat, full service, Little Wolf cocktail bar restaurant, where he’s creating rotating menus of internationally inspired, very affordable small plates 6 Culinaire November 2023

(Japanese curry poutine, fried focaccia with hummus…). Walk in only at 8424 109 St NW. Thursday-Sunday 5pm-1am.

the ever-popular personalized sandwiches, and gelato. Seven days at 10644 97 Street NW, italianbakeryedm.com

A revamped membership program and app for Calgary Co-op members. It’s been a long time in the making but Calgary Co-op CEO, Ken Keelor, has finally been able to announce the launch of their refreshed membership program and the new free to download app, which offers rewards and benefits, as well as additional savings, prizes and coupons to members when shopping at the grocery stores, gas stations, and liquor stores. calgarycoop.com/app/

Earls has opened in Calgary’s Southcentre Mall just two months after closing in Willow Park, and they’re ‘unchaining the chain’ and tailoring the restaurant to the community. 19 local artists have been engaged in the art program with a theme of “Mountain Meets the Prairies”. As well as Earls’ faves such as Santa Fe Chicken Salad, Jumbo Lump Crab Cakes, and the 45-day aged Canadian steaks, you’ll find new menu items exclusive to Southcentre, and we’d recommend trying the Truffled Parmesan Chicken with Mushroom Risotto, as well as a cocktail from the tequila-forward list (Strawberry Smokeshow Margarita!) or one of the Deluxe Highballs. Even with 240 seats this is a busy restaurant, so do make a reservation, particularly for happy hours and at weekends. NOTE: the restaurant is at the Anderson Road entrance of the mall - and only accessible from the outside!

Congratulations to Edmonton’s La French Taste! 12 years after starting at the farmers’ market, Anthony and Julien have opened a bricks and mortar bakery storefront and kitchen. They’re offering their traditional French viennoiseries, tartes, gougères, baguettes, brioches, cakes, and cookies, at their new location in Norwood, at 11401 95 Street, WednesdaySunday 8-6pm, lafrenchtaste.ca Cluck & Cleaver have opened a new location in the gates of Walden Plaza, in Calgary’s deep south, in the former Starbucks location. If you live in the south, you can now get your fix of always fresh, Canadian humanely farm-raised, crispy fried or rotisserie chicken, with made from scratch salads and sides, and get home while everything is still piping hot! Seven days 11-9pm at 151 Walden Gate, cluckncleaver.com Edmonton’s Italian Bakery has reopened their Chinatown location. Family-run since 1962, they have survived the major challenges of devasting fires, and now second generation, Rosaly DeVenz, is at the helm and has increased the seating area and added an indoor bocce ball court too. Come for coffee or dine in for their menu of house-made pasta dishes, pizzas,

Edmonton, Airdre, Medicine Hat… now Crumbl Cookies have opened a second northern Alberta location in Sherwood Park, at 390 Baseline Road. Founded in 2017 by Canadian Jason McGowan and his cousin, Sawyer Hemsley, Crumbl now has 700+ bakeries worldwide, rotating their menu every week with six gourmet flavours, all in their instantly recognisable, signature pink packaging. From 8am, closed Sundays, crumblcookies.ca Much-acclaimed Padmanadi Vegan Eatery has branched out after 20 years and two successful Edmonton locations, and owners Maya and Adam have headed south and brought their authentic Indonesian dishes to Calgary. Without using onions or garlic, they play with texture and spices to produce delicious and flavourful, pan-Asian sharing plates, such as Satay with Peanut Sauce, Roti

Canai with curry dipping sauce, Tom Yum Soup, Rendang, and the most outstanding Ginger Beef in a tangy ginger sauce (do try it, you’ll be hard-pressed to know it’s vegan!). Menus differ slightly in each location, but you’ll recognise the food, and while the Edmonton restaurants don’t serve alcohol, in Calgary you can enjoy ready-made cocktails, as well as soft drinks, and tea and coffee. Sharing portions are very generous, but at lunchtimes you can choose individual sizes. 11:30-9pm at 8835 Macleod Trail SW, closed Mondays. padmanadi.com Often Restaurant is downtown Edmonton’s newest lounge. This cosy restaurant-bar is the new place to meet your friends and coworkers for drinks (try the exclusive Remy Martin cocktails!), for snacks before an Oilers game, or maybe for your next date night. Open from 5pm and for lunch on weekdays and brunch at weekends, at 10009 101A Avenue, closed Mondays. Delmonico is a new restaurant in Calgary’s Killarney district and they’re open sunrise to sunset - for

breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Named for the steak (yes, hungry diners can order a 24 oz Delmonico ribeye!), and while there are different cuts of beef on offer (chef previously worked at Hy’s), we’d recommend trying the western fusion, cross cultural dishes, blending international flavours with western ingredients. We really enjoyed our signature starters of melon salad with feta cream, herb crusted chicken with jalapeno ranch, garlic cheese toast, and meatballs with red wine tomato reduction and parmesan crisp, followed by house made prawn cannelloni with lobster tail. 3220 17 Ave SW, seven days 7am-11pm, weekend brunch 10-3pm, and 15 percent discount for seniors lunch and dinner on Fridays. delmonico.ca In addition to their Oliver location, Edmonton’s Odd Company Brewing has opened its Ritchie taproom at 9959 76 Avenue. The small batch brewery is all about experimentation, so you have lots of reasons to visit as there'll likely be something new every time! Along with a full line-up of Odd Company beers on tap, there’s plenty of beer-friendly menu

items, including 16-inch pizzas, wings, deep fried veggies, burgers, and delicious sandwiches such as Umarell Italian Pilsner braised pork belly with fennel aioli and crackling on ciabatta. WednesdaySunday noon-11pm, oddcompany.ca Cactus Club has opened its seventh Alberta location with a new standalone building at the southwest corner of Calgary’s Crowfoot Village Shopping Centre, at 112 Crowfoot Terrace NW. The largest of Calgary’s four Cactus restaurants with room for more than 300 diners, they’re proud to have created more than 200 full and part-time jobs and raised over $25,000 for the Crowfoot Library during location training. There’s an enclosed all-season patio with electric heaters and automatic blinds; a lounge bar with two slush machines, 12 beers taps, red and white wine on tap, and big TVs; as well as an inviting dining room with tables that allow for large groups; and an exterior takeout window! It’s fully accessible with ramps and automatic openers. Seven days from 11:30am-late, reservations and pickup orders at CactusClubCafe.com

A gift of good taste. Delicious and award-winning bonbons, chocolate-filled Yule logs, chocolate-dipped cherries, Advent calendars, and other chocolate delights for the holidays, made right here in Calgary. Free Canadian shipping on Canadian orders over $75* use code FREESHIP75 (*some restrictions apply) Shop in person: Signal Hill, Southcentre Mall, Dalhousie Station, Victoria Park Easy curbside pickup: Cococo Chocolate Factory in Mayland Heights Shop online: www.CococoChocolatiers.com chocolate together

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O F F TH E M E N U

Sensei Bar's Shiitake Baklava

BY LINDA GARSON

here’s nothing better to wake up to than feedback from you, particularly one requesting a recipe that we’ve tried and love ourselves! Thanks very much Suzanne, for your email: “Good morning Linda, Love love love your magazine! I was enjoying dinner last night at Sensei Bar and we had the Gochuchang and Ginger Chicken. It was served atop a Shiitake “Baklava” with sambal honey. This baklava was one of the most creative and delicious dishes I have had in a while; it was layered, flaky and savoury. Could you please share the recipe? Thanks, Suzanne” We asked, and there was no hesitation from Sensei Bar – the recipe was with us speedily! Thanks so much, Chef Rich, for generously sharing your recipe.

Shiitake Baklava Serves 4

400 g shiitake mushrooms, cleaned and sliced 50-75 g butter 150 g cream cheese ¼ cup (60 mL) white miso paste 100 g mascarpone cheese 2.5 g parsley 2.5 g rosemary, chopped 3 Tbs (45 mL) honey 1 pack phyllo dough To taste salt and pepper 1. Preheat the oven to 350° F. Blend your mushrooms in a food processor. 2. Add 2/3 of the butter to a pan until foaming and sauté the mushrooms until fully cooked. Set aside to cool.

3. Blend cream cheese, miso, and mascarpone cheese together in a food processor until smooth. 4. In a small bowl, mix the chopped herbs with the honey. Set aside. 5. Line a loaf tin with parchment paper. Cut sheets of phyllo dough to fit the pan. Add 2 layers of phyllo dough to the bottom. 6. Begin layering starting with the mascarpone mixture then mushrooms, herbed honey, salt and pepper, 2 more sheets of phyllo, and repeat. 7. Add an additional 3rd layer of phyllo to the top and brush with the remaining butter. Cook in the oven for approximately 30 minutes covered in foil. Remove the foil and cook for an additional 5 minutes. 8. Cool and press the baklava down with some weights (tomato cans are great for this) and let it sit for 4 hours to set before slicing.

If there’s a dish in a restaurant in Alberta that you’d love to make at home, let us know at culinairemagazine.ca, and we’ll do our very best to track down the recipe for you!

8 Culinaire November 2023

B O O K R E V I E WS BY LI N DA G A RSO N

Okanagan Eats: Signature Chefs’ Recipes from British Columbia’s Wine Valleys

By Dawn Postnikoff and Joanne Sasvari, Figure.1 Publishing, $39

collection of more than 70 signature recipes from some of the Okanagan Valley's best chefs, restaurants, cafes, bakeries, and wineries. Most of us reading this in Alberta will not only be familiar with the wines from our neighbours in the Okanagan Valley, and eagerly await fresh fruit from over the border every summer too, but many will have visited the area for a short (or extended) break, taking in the beautiful scenery and enjoying the abundant local produce. The Okanagan is not only attracting visitors though, it’s attracting superb chefs away from the cities, lured by the wealth of quality ingredients for their dishes, and many of these chefs are featured here in Okanagan Eats. Indeed, you may have eaten at their restaurants or have met some of them, like Chef Evan Robertson

– we were big fans when he was cooking in Calgary restaurants, and still fans now he heads up The Bistro at Hillside Winery. We can’t wait to try his Confit Duck and Waffles (p.30). So much has changed since my first visit in 2003, just one year after Mission Hill’s Terrace restaurant opened (I’m looking forward to trying their Spring Asparagus, Morel, and Sunchoke Soup (p.167), and this book tells the stories with two recipes each from 14 winery chefs, as well as some working in distilleries and breweries, and stand-alone restaurants. I’ve earmarked recipes which typify the Okanagan to me, like Grilled Summer Peach and Burrata Salad (p.126) from Quails’ Gate’s Old Vines Restaurant, and the Fruit Clafoutis with Red Wine Ice Cream (p148), from Silver Star Resort. Thanks to Postnikoff and Sasvari for such

a well thought-out book, with restaurants arranged alphabetically, beautiful photography of the chefs and their dishes, and suggested pairings of wine, beer, or cider to enjoy with each recipe. We really appreciate that the recipes are all explained and laid out with ingredients that we amateur enthusiasts can make at home too - nothing too “chef-y” or complicated. Thanks too for bringing a bit of the Okanagan into our homes until we can return for another visit!

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C H E F ’ S TI P S & TR I C KS

Slow and Steady BY KEANE STRAUB PHOTOS BY DONG KIM

here’s no arguing that filling the home with the scents of slow cooking adds to the overall eating experience once you do tuck in. Along with deepening flavours, slow cooking can also help stretch ingredients

Chef Tu Le of Edmonton’s Jack’s Burger Shack (and its pop-up Charcoal Dragon) calls his style of cooking “a mash-up of Vietnamese cooking with Canadian ingredients and influence.” He owes this to being an immigrant, he adds, and credits his mother for much of what he’s learned. While the menu at Jack’s leans into Western influences – the ‘All Shook Up’ burger is a subtle nod to Elvis, complete with peanut butter – Chef Tu hasn’t forgotten where he comes from. When we asked for a slow-cooked recipe he was quick to reply with a recipe for Sot Vang, a Vietnamese-style beef stew. “My mom would make traditional Hanoi pho every weekend but once in a while my dad would spend the day and make Sot Vang,” he explains. A relatively simple dish, it’s all about good seasoning and slow cooking. “Season the meat and brown it well - this adds a deep flavour to the stew. And really, you can’t overcook this dish, it’s like an Italian Sunday gravy in that you can start it in the morning and leave it on until dinner.”

Sot Vang Serves 4-6

750g stew beef, cubed (can be substituted with short rib, chuck flats, or oxtail) To taste salt and pepper 2 Tbs (30 mL) canola oil 1 large onion, thinly sliced 2 cloves of garlic, minced 1 Tbs ginger, minced 2 Tbs (30 mL) tomato paste 2 cups (500 mL) water 5 cups (1¼ L) beef stock 1 cup (250 mL) dry red wine 10 Culinaire November 2023

further, and free up time better spent with loved ones, or doing something just for yourself – just remember to set a timer to check on things when needed! This month we turn up the heat and pump the brakes to explore flavourful

2 Tbs (30 mL) fish sauce 2 Tbs (30 mL) light soy sauce 1 Tbs (15 mL) honey 2 cinnamon sticks 4 star anise 3 potatoes, peeled and cubed 4 carrots, cut into rough chunks Fresh cilantro, for garnish 1 white onion, thinly sliced for garnish Baguette or cooked rice noodles 1. Season beef liberally on both sides with salt and pepper and set aside at room temperature for 30 minutes. 2. Heat oil in large pot or Dutch oven on medium high heat. Add beef and brown on all sides, remove beef from pot. 3. Add onions, garlic, and ginger to pot and cook until fragrant. 4. Push onion, garlic, and ginger mixture to one side of the pot, add tomato paste

stews, braised meats, and comforting soups with recipes shared by four Alberta chefs. These all come together with ease, delight the senses, and free you up to take care of those things we tend to put on the back burner.

to the other side and cook until paste darkens in colour. 5. Add browned beef, water, stock, wine, fish sauce, soy sauce, honey, cinnamon and star anise to pot, and bring to a boil. 6. Lower heat to low and allow to simmer for 2–2½ hours. 7. Add potatoes and carrots and simmer for another 1 hour. Adjust season with salt and pepper to taste. 8. Garnish with cilantro and onion and serve atop rice noodles or with baguettes for dipping.

East meets west with creative twists at Calgary’s Clay Pot Asian Kitchen, and Chef Paul Yung says he has his wife, Polly, to thank. “She challenges me every day to make creative and flavourful dishes with her advice and suggestions, and she’s the main motivation behind my obsession with culinary arts.” Sake-cured salmon and tuna atop shrimp crackers make for a refreshing change to western-style nachos, and Chef Paul takes it even further by tapping into Alberta, and specifically, their love of good beef and pork: think smoked beef brisket on a bao bun, and grilled and braised pork spareribs. “Albertans love BBQ pork. The recipe I’m sharing adds Asian flavour to a traditional favourite Western dish. The St. Louis-style cut spareribs guarantees the meat to be tender and juicy.” Another straightforward dish, Chef Paul emphasizes the importance of cooking times at different stages. “Adding the different ingredients at the appropriate time helps to bring out the best flavours.”

Sparerib spice

Grilled and Braised Pork Sparerib Serves 4

2 racks of St. Louis-style cut spareribs ¾ cup plus 1 Tbs (200 mL) canola oil 4 cups (1 L) chicken broth 4 cups (1 L) water 2 tsp (10 mL) sesame oil 1/3 cup plus 4 tsp (100 mL) honey

¾ cup plus 1 Tbs (200 mL) hoisin sauce 1/3 cup plus 4 tsp (100 mL) chuhou paste (available at Asian supermarkets, or replace with oyster sauce) 2 tsp minced garlic 1/3 cup plus 4 tsp (100 mL) light soy sauce 3 Tbs plus 1 tsp (50 mL) dark soy sauce 225 g rock sugar (available at Asian supermarkets, or replace with 200 g soft brown sugar) 2 Tbs plus 2 tsp (40 mL) cooking wine 1½ tsp 5-spice powder

1. Cut the spareribs into individual pieces between each rib bone. 2. Add the canola oil to a big pot on high heat. Sear the spareribs until they turn light brown. 3. Mix in the chicken broth and water until boiling. 4. Add all the sparerib spices to the pot, and stir. Turn down to medium heat and cover the pot with a lid. 5. Stir again when about 20 percent of the liquid is left in the pot. 6. When the level of liquid is down to 5 percent, add sesame oil and honey to cook until caramelized. 7. Garnish the dish with your favourite seasonal vegetables to complement the spareribs. November 2023 | Culinaire 11

At Edmonton’s NongBu, owner John Ahn’s goal is to share his knowledge of both the old and new of Korean cuisine. “My mother is a time capsule of old traditions and flavours from a different era of Korea. She produced amazing meals without the aid of flavour enhancers or packaged sauces,” he says. “We want to give our customers a real home-cooked experience with every visit.” Familiar menu items like Pork Bulgogi and ‘any dish with Kimchi in it’ are Ahn’s faves, but when it comes to slowing things down to produce a comforting dish, Soon Dubu Jjigae (Seafood Soon Tofu Stew) is where it’s at. “This is a comforting stew perfect for chilly days,” explains Ahn. “Take your time to bring out the natural flavours of your ingredients. The result is a cleaner and more comforting taste.” Adding more elements to the broth like shrimp shells, extra squid, and the ends of green onions makes for more depth of flavour, especially if you cook it longer to further reduce it. 12 Culinaire November 2023

Seafood Soon Tofu Stew (Soon Dubu Jjigae) Serves 4

Soup Stock

6 cups (1½ L) water 1 small sheet kombu seaweed 50 g daikon radish 3-4 dried anchovies 1 Tbs (15 mL) sesame oil ¼ medium onion, chopped 8 medium shrimp, chopped 100 g squid, chopped Baby clams, in shell or just the meat To taste salt 600-800g soft silken tofu 2 eggs Green onions, chopped

Sauce

2 Tbs (30 mL) gochugaru fine (Korean chili powder) 1 tsp gochugaru coarse (Korean chili flakes) 2 Tbs (30 mL) soy sauce 1 tsp (5 mL) fish sauce 1 Tbs garlic, minced

1. In a pot, bring water to a boil. Turn off heat and add a washed sheet of kombu seaweed. Allow to steep until you get a nice green tint. 2. Remove kombu and add daikon and dried anchovies. Bring to boil and then reduce heat to medium and let simmer for 20–30 minutes. 3. In another pot on medium-high heat add 1 Tbs (15 mL) of sesame oil. Add the sauce ingredients and the diced onion. Stir until the onions start to sweat and become soft. 4. Add the soup stock, stir in to eliminate chunks. 5. Add shrimp, squid, and fresh clams to the broth. Season with salt. 6. Add silken tofu. Use a spoon to scoop out the tofu and add to your broth in large chunks. DO NOT STIR. You don’t want to break up the tofu too much. Boil for 5 minutes. 7. Crack eggs into the soup and turn off heat. 8. Garnish with chopped green onions.

Chef Mayur Kunte calls himself a lifelong foodie. Growing up, occasions both big and small were marked by feasts, and while his mother was a strict vegetarian, Chef Mayur says she made the best lamb, chicken, and fish dishes. “It amazes me to date as she never tasted a single thing, but the (dishes she made) had perfect taste every time she cooked.” Inspired by the street food culture in Mumbai, Chef Mayur established Mumbai Bites in Calgary. The menu boasts a wide selection of kebabs, curries, and small plates, and among them Chef Mayur says his favourite is the Ragada Pattice. “I love it for the simplicity and textures this dish offers.” And he says that simplicity is a major component of comfort food. “The easier the recipe is to execute, more fun it is to make it, and excitement will flow throughout the cooking process. When you keep a recipe simple, it will be consistent every time you make it.” Chicken Manchurian is easy to prepare at home, says Chef Mayur. “It’s simply delicious, and for me, it brings back memories from my college days when I was a young, aspiring chef.”

Chicken Manchurian Serves 4

1 tsp (5 mL) oil 1 Tbs garlic, minced 1 Tbs ginger, minced 1 tsp (5 mL) Szechwan sauce (or ½ teaspoon Sambal Oelek and a little dash of white vinegar) ¼ cup (60 mL) water 1¼ tsp salt or to taste ¼ tsp black pepper ¼ tsp white vinegar 2 Tbs (30 mL) dark soy sauce 1 Tbs cornstarch mixed with 2-3 Tbs water (should resemble 10% cream) 300 g boneless chicken, cut into chunks 1 egg, beaten ¼ cup all-purpose flour Oil for frying 1 Tbs green pepper, diced 1 Tbs cilantro 1 Tbs green onion

1. Heat oil in a heavy bottom pot and add garlic and ginger. Sauté for 1 minute. 2. Add Szechwan sauce and continue to sauté. Add water and continue to gently cook the sauce. 3. Add salt and pepper, and then add vinegar and soy sauce. 4. Let the mixture cook for 10-15 minutes. 5. Add a little cornstarch slurry into the boiling sauce. Whisk to break up lumps and cook the sauce till it thickens and coats the back of the spoon. Add more cornstarch/water if necessary. 6. Lightly coat the chicken with egg and then flour. Heat oil and fry until chicken is completely cooked. Add the chicken chunks into the pan with the sauce. 7. Add the diced peppers, green onion, and cilantro, and transfer to the serving bowl.

Keane Straub has travelled from Tofino to Charlottetown, sampling the different flavours Canada offers. The passion people have for their craft and culture inspires Keane to tell their stories. November 2023 | Culinaire 13

THE SPICE CHICA

Many of us cook with spices, whether it’s salt and pepper or something with a little more kick. We’ve been using spices for a time almost beyond measure: Canada’s First Nations peoples used spices for beef and game, and in the Middle East the spice trade dates to 2,000 BC. From Indigenous juniper berry seasoning to cinnamon from India, our global history with spice is long and continues to develop. With a world of flavours at our fingertips, we can get a glimpse of it here in Alberta through The Spice Chica. Born in Buenos Aires and raised with a multitude of cultural influences, Chef Marina Mellino has an extensive culinary background from which to draw inspiration. The philosophy behind The Spice Chica is to teach people how to cook simply and thoughtfully – with love. It might sound like a tall order for a small company, but they do it one spice at a time.

“My grandmother and I spent many happy times cooking in her kitchen”, says Marina. “I remember her using only a few basic herbs and spices – salt, pepper, garlic, oregano.” This connection with family is part of how The Spice Chica started. “I had cooked with spices for years, and I began to experiment more.” Whether mild, tangy, sweet, or savoury, all spices offer a unique flavour to your dishes. Minced, flaked, powdered, or whole, how the spice is prepared will impact its taste. “Knowing how to use spices is an art that every good cook has had to learn”, explains Maria. “We learn by experimenting. So I did.” The idea to start The Spice Chica came to Marina about ten years ago. She was at home in Calgary and had prepared fresh chimichurri for guests. “They said it was so good that I should jar it!” Not long after, Marina started packaging Chimichurri as a dry spice mixture and branded it under

her own name to sell at local markets throughout Calgary. She received positive feedback and several requests to make a ready-to-use sauce. “I went back to the kitchen and developed a product with the Food Processing Development Centre in Leduc.” A year of learning about products, processes, and business development, and a new ‘secret’ recipe eventually became the Chimichurri Sauce. Historically, spices have held close connection to religion. They have also been used for currency. Egyptians prized spices as rare jewels. A culinary staple revered, so much so that spices have impacted history. Each time we use spices we share a little bit of that history and imbue our foods with love. “It’s about helping people realize the importance of being present while sharing food with others.” Food is community, and community is a big part of the Made in Alberta program. ADVERTORIAL

14 Culinaire November 2023

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“I believe that buying local boosts our economy in a unique way”, says Marina. “Made in Alberta makes it easy for Albertans to recognize that my products are made by me – a local Calgarian.” The program supports Alberta’s agriculture sector while helping us consumers easily find local processors. “I had been looking for a program where my product would be recognized for being local. This fit perfectly, so I became a member right away.” “Being part of Made in Alberta also means community support”, says Marina. As a small business, The Spice Chica relies on the local community. Every jar purchased and referral from friend to friend is what keeps Chef Marina going. “One of our company values is ‘serving the community first’ and the Made in Alberta program aligns strongly with that. It gives me hope to keep going and encourages me to grow my business.” For Marina, it also means she can pick up the phone and call other business owners for advice, people who are working towards the same goals. It’s family in a different way. The Spice Chica spices helps Marina share part of her childhood in Argentina, as the flavours in her original rub hold memories of making Chimichurri with her grandma. “It’s a must-have for any barbecue and is especially delicious on grilled steak or chicken and seared tuna”, says Marina. She learned to chop ingredients by hand, giving a more dynamic texture to the sauce. “The shallot, chili, garlic, and salt, sit with vinegar for about 10 minutes, then we add parsley and oregano.” The power of those memories in the kitchen with her grandma are part of what sets The Spice Chica apart from others. As a chef, Marina spends a lot of time developing recipes and culinary concepts but her main focus will always be creating flavourful spice combinations for her business. The Spice Chica has several Chimichurri blends including an Original with those Argentinian kitchen memories, the Hot Chica, and More Garlic. “Chimichurri is versatile”, says Chef Marina. It works double-duty as both a condiment or an ingredient and makes a simple but tasty topper on vegetables and pasta.

The Chimichurri Dry Rub can be used as a marinade, a rub, or turned into their famous sauce by adding your favourite oil and red wine vinegar. Whether it’s at an Alberta grocery store, local farmers’ market, online, or pop-up shop, we can travel the spice world through this delicious line of Chimichurri right in our own backyards. The Spice Chica is headquartered in Parkhill, Alberta. Buy local – and taste global.

Our unique Made in Alberta label clearly identifies local food and beverages that are made right here in Alberta. By purchasing Made in Alberta products, you are supporting Alberta’s growers, farmers, producers, and processors. When we choose local, we choose our neighbours. madeinalberta.co November 2023 | Culinaire 15

S TE P BY S TE P

Ultimate Comfort:

Classic Pot Roast STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHS BY RENÉE KOHLMAN

f there’s one food that tugs at the thread of childhood memories for me – it’s a Sunday roast. Mom always cooked a chicken or sometimes pork, but more often than not it was a beef roast.

16 Culinaire November 2023

The piece of chuck was placed in a pot alongside potatoes and carrots and left to cook low and slow for a few hours. The house smelled glorious. She always made a thick gravy to pour

over the meat, and if she’d also baked fresh buns, you better believe I dunked them into the pools of gravy. How lucky I am to have this meal etched into my precious food memories. However, beef

prices today are definitely not what they were 40 years ago, and with today’s grocery budget in mind, a roast like this is more than likely reserved for special occasions, and not just a random Sunday supper. That being said, every home cook should have a pot roast recipe up their sleeve, one that will serve up perfect results every time. Cooked in just one pot, and full of rich, beefy flavour, a good pot roast should be melt-in-your-mouth tender. So, how do we get there? First off is the choice of roast you’ll want to use. Pot roast generally uses a tougher, more inexpensive cut of beef. Look for chuck roast, cross rib roast, or rump roast. If you don’t see any of these, talk to the butcher - they’re always happy to help. The meat should have plenty of marbling. This means fat, and fat equals flavour. Cooking these roasts at lower temperatures for a longer time means that those tough connective tissues break down, resulting in tender meat and flavourful juices. The first step is to pat the roast dry then season it generously with salt and pepper. I like to sear it in the pot so a beautiful crust forms on the meat. This is where all that gorgeous flavour begins. Next, tuck in large chunks of onion, and pour over a mixture of beef broth, red wine, garlic, tomato paste and Dijon mustard. Bring it to a simmer then put it in the oven for just over an hour. We don’t want to add the vegetables at the beginning because they’ll get overcooked. It’s best to add them halfway through the cooking time. I use potatoes, carrots and celery, but you can also add some chunks of butternut squash or rutabaga. After cooking for another hour or so, the vegetables should be very tender and the meat should easily fall apart with the tug of a fork. If not, continue cooking until it does. Note that the timing here is for a 900 g (2 lb) roast. You’ll have to increase the cooking time for a larger piece of meat. A 1.35 kg (3 lb roast) will take a total of 3.5 hours. A 1.8 kg (4 lb) roast will take about 4 hours. Remember to add the vegetables at the last hour of cooking. In the end, that one single pot will yield tender, fall apart beef served alongside soft and savoury vegetables smothered in a rich brown gravy. One bite and it’s easy to see why this meal is synonymous with classic comfort food.

Classic Pot Roast

serves 4

2 Tbs (30 mL) canola oil 900 g (2 lb) chuck roast, cross rib roast or rump roast, patted dry 1 large onion, chopped into large chunks 1½ cups (375 mL) reduced sodium beef broth ¾ cup (180 mL) red wine 4 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped 2 Tbs (30 mL) tomato paste 1 Tbs (15 mL) grainy Dijon mustard ½ tsp (2 mL) salt ½ tsp (2 mL) pepper 3-4 sprigs of fresh rosemary and thyme 1 bay leaf 454 g (1 lb) baby potatoes 5 carrots, chopped into 5 cm pieces 2 celery stalks, chopped into 3.75 cm pieces 1. Preheat the oven to 300º F. 2. Season the roast generously with salt and pepper. In a large Dutch oven, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Sear the beef on both sides until browned, about 4 minutes per side. The beef should release easily from the pan when it’s ready to be turned. 3. Arrange the onions around the roast. In a medium bowl, combine the broth, red wine, garlic, tomato paste, mustard, salt, and pepper. Pour this over the beef. Add the rosemary, thyme and bay leaf. 4. Bring the mixture to a simmer on the

stovetop over medium-high heat, scraping up any browned bits from the bottom of the pot. Once the broth is simmering, cover with a tight-fitting lid and place in the oven. Cook for 1 hour and 10 minutes. 5. Add the potatoes, carrots and celery to the pot. Cook for an additional hour, until the vegetables and meat are very tender. You should be able to pull the meat apart easily with a fork. If it doesn’t do this, cook for an additional 10-20 minutes. 6. Remove the pot from the oven and let it rest for 5 minutes. 7. Discard the bay leaf and any stems from the herbs. Place the vegetables on a serving platter. Place the beef on a cutting board and gently pull into large pieces with a fork or slice into thicker pieces. Arrange in the centre of the platter. You can pour some of the beef juices on top of the beef or serve with gravy (recipe follows). 8. Gravy: Strain the beef juices into a smaller saucepan. Place over medium heat. In a small bowl, whisk 2 Tbs cornstarch with 2 Tbs (30 mL) cold water, until a smooth paste forms. Whisk this into the simmering beef juices. Cook for 2 minutes, until the gravy thickens. Season to taste, if desired. Serve with the pot roast.

Renée Kohlman is a busy food writer and recipe developer living in Saskatoon, Saskatchewan. Her second cookbook, “Vegetables: A Love Story” has just been published. November 2023 | Culinaire 17

Inte rn ation a l C o ok bo ok Roun dup That Noodle Life

Soulful, savoury, spicy, slurpy, by Mike and Stephanie Le. From the opening Haiku Guide to Noodles, the tone is set - it’s a serious ode to noodles and a fun fun book! Not limited to any country (plenty of pasta here!), the Les share their tips and techniques for dishes from Cozy Noods for Cozy Moods, via dishes for date nights and Soup-er Noodles, to Living Your Best Noodle Life, with recipe names like Udon Wanna Miss This – we suspect you (like us) are going to love this book! Workman Publishing $29.

The Korean K-Drama Cookbook

Make the dishes seen in your favourite TV shows by Choi Heejae. One for K-Drama fans (or just fans of Korean food). For afficionados or amateur enthusiasts, over 61 simple recipes with most ingredients to be found in your store cupboard or fridge, Heejae takes us through Korean dishes that appear in K-Dramas, rice and snacks, kimchi and hot pots, sauces and make-ahead dishes. There’s a dish for every level here, I might start with Kimchi Fried Rice and take it from there! Tuttle $20

The Kitchen Without Borders

Recipes and stories from refugee and immigrant chefs. Eat Offbeat is a New York catering company that hires talented refugees, and shares their stories through their dishes, the way they would cook at home for their families. You’ll love it for the stories of the chefs as much as their recipes, and there’s plenty of both – and if you need further reason to buy this book it’s summed up in the words of one refugee: “nobody can hate me after they have tasted my mother’s hummus.” Workman Publishing $35.

The Hot Book of Chilies, 3rd Edition

51 Recipes and 97 Varieties from Mild to Super Spicy by David Floyd. From mild shishito to blow-your-head-off ghost peppers, this lovely little book is possibly the only chili book you’ll ever need. Not only is it really attractively laid out with excellent photos, Floyd takes us through the history of chilies and stories (including how to cure a chili burn!), with an exhaustive identification guide and tempting recipes from Chili Crab to Zhoug. Companion House Books $21

Real Vietnamese Cooking

Everyday Favourites from the Street to the Kitchen by Yumiko Adachi, Shinobu Ito, and Masumi Suzuki. Another little book you’re going to want if you’re a fan of Vietnamese food. There’s a terrific background to the cuisine, explanations of how the Vietnamese eat, the seasonings, street food, coffee, herbs, and recipes for every Viet dish you wondered what was in it and how it was made, with colourful photos of every dish. A most enjoyable education that we can’t wait to put into practice. Tuttle $20 18 Culinaire November 2023

My Thali - A Simple Indian Kitchen

Chef Joe Thottungal is from Kerala in South India, and the owner of Coconut Lagoon and Thali restaurants in Ottawa. A recent recipient of The Order of Ottawa for his charity, Food for Thought, his first book, Coconut Lagoon, was a tribute to his homeland, and his new book, My Thali, celebrates homecooking, with 85 recipes to create your thali – a feast on a plate. Many recipes will be familiar to lovers of Indian food, but chef has elevated them while keeping them easy to make at home. A beautiful book. Figure.1 Publishing $39

NOT YOUR AVERAGE WHISKY

IWSC PANEL Tasting Notes:

“Splendidly extravagant with a rich flow of milk chocolate, smooth vanilla and sumptuous pears on the palate. The finish is long and weighty with a stunning flow of creamy nuttiness that keeps on going. ABSOLUTELY MARVELLOUS. ” Find great cocktail ideas at deanstonmalt.com or @deanstonmalt Please Enjoy Responsibly.

Represented by PMA Canada | pmacanada.com

November 2023 | Culinaire 19

They could stand the heat, but time came for this mother-daughter business duo to get out of the kitchen

any of us grow up cooking with our parents, stirring and tasting, experimenting with flavours. For Calgary's Natalia Lazic, it was all that and more. “My dad would stick a chili pepper in my mouth when I was two,” she laughs. “I love spicy.” Embracing her family's Yugoslavian roots and her mom Anna's stove-side advice, the registered dietician has parlayed her love of experimenting in the kitchen with a love of all things spicy - and become an accidental entrepreneur in the process. As happens with the invention of many a good thing, the creation of Seven Spice Chili Oil came out of necessity about five years ago, when Lazic's search for a highquality chili oil came up short. “Every item I looked at had crappy ingredients or MSG, which I don't tolerate well,” she remembers. “I thought, why am I looking so hard?” Retreating to her kitchen, the foodie mixed up her own blend of favourite aromatic ingredients - garlic, oil, pepper flakes, coconut and spices - a total of seven ingredients in all: hence the product name. And, voila. What started as jarred offerings of the tasty condiment to friends and family to use as a marinade or in stir fry, stews, soups, and meats, has found growing sales at farmers' markets and in an expanding line of local and across-Alberta retail shops. “I never planned to bring the product to market. Mom was in the background cooking, and for two years we just kept giving out jars as gifts,” she says. “People were asking for cases of the stuff. We were doing once-a-week cooking/jarring sessions when finally, mom said, ‘We can't keep doing this. I'm not cooking anymore.’ That's when things changed. We decided to go all out, saying “maybe we have something here.” Going ‘all out’ for Lazic has meant sourcing product labels, creating a

20 Culinaire November 2023

BY LUCY HAINES

Co-founders of Seven Spice Ltd. Natalia Lazic and her mom Anna. Lazic took a love of spicy and time experimenting in the kitchen to create a chili oil that is heating up the condiment aisle in the local grocery store.

website to sustain online ordering (sevenspice.com) and researching how to expand beyond the family kitchen. One solution was found a few hours drive away, at the Agrivalue Processing Business Incubator in Leduc. The site supports new food businesses like Seven Spice with the equipment, space and workers needed to upscale a business. In a day, the Leduc facility can produce Lazic's monthly requirements of about 4,000 jars of mild, hot and extra hot chili oil (227 g). Lazic credits her advisors from Alberta Agriculture for encouraging her to take the product to farmers’ markets: it has been a boon for sales and a great avenue for growing public awareness about the product, she says. The processing plant was also the site of a ‘lesson learned’, says Lisac. An early batch that went through production was found to have been made with chilis, “with zero heat. Now I always taste the peppers first.” Still, Lazic and the team made the best of it, slapping a ‘mild’ sticker on that batch of jars, and putting that variety into

the lineup. The mild version of Seven Spice variety has now become as popular as the hot. “Another happy accident,” laughs Lazic. Family friend, Renaissance man (spoken word artist, science major etc) and people-person Fred Holliss works many a summer weekend market for Lazic. Another spice lover introduced to the creation early on, Ellis says the product practically sells itself to buyers of all ages—thus far it’s mostly foodies, mostly women - so his job is simply to encourage market-goers to give it a try. “We offer a sample on bread, pasta or rice; it's shelf stable and great at room temperature or warm. Three of four people who try it will buy it, often several jars of it,” Holliss says. “And regulars come back to suggest what they do with the chili oil, from putting it on eggs or roast vegetables, mixing it with soya sauce for a dumpling dip or even with peanut butter for a Thai-style sauce. There's all sorts of hot sauces out there, but we aren't competing in the heat wars, rather

With production in Leduc, Seven Spice Chili Oil's mild, hot and extra hot formulas can be found at Co-op stores, Safeway/Sobeys and soon, Save on Foods in stores around Alberta.

in the flavour wars. I love the stuff. I’m not precious about it; I put it on everything. And I'm proud of the work Natalia and her mom have done.” Often associated with Asian cuisine, chili oils are a growing part of the market thanks to the mainstreaming of international flavours. “Garlic, chilis, coconut, sesame - these ingredients work so well together and they don't have to overpower the food; just complement it,” Lazic says. “And it's not just for Asian food; put it on pizza, on perogies - there's not a day goes by that I don't use it.” The go-getter has other goals too, which she pursues through product demos at specialty grocers, meetings with supermarket management and more. Lazic admits she's trying to take her business to the next level, and that's about distribution, she asserts and, maybe...even an attempt at getting on Dragon's Den. “The lady who founded Kicking Horse Coffee reached out to me too - there's big decisions I'd have to make to take it to the next level.” She's off to a good start, as Seven Spice Ltd. hits new targets. The chili oil was recently named a ‘best of’ product by Avenue Magazine (Calgary) and is on the shelves of Co-op stores, Safeway/Sobeys and soon, Save On Foods. And in addition to Holliss getting word out at markets and special events, Lazic has brought on Evencia Thornhill to help with social media and other marketing of the product. And the dietician in her has served Lazic's business well, too. Pointing to the far less sodium in her all-natural condiment - just 30 mg of sodium per teaspoon - there's also just a scant bit of sugar to balance the salty flavour. Compare that to ketchup or sriracha (with higher sugar/sodium contents),

Lazic is confident her product is on trend with how the market and Canadian palates are evolving. “This is my passion and if I can grow the business, I'll quit my day job. That's the goal,” she adds. “I've always loved to create in the kitchen; I'm still shocked I made this product.” The next big step would mean leaving her day job at a pharmaceutical company, one she's had for over 20 years. No doubt, Lazic will turn to her company co-founder, counsellor, fellow cook and advice-giver, mom Anna, for when to take the leap. “I hope I will be alive to see our oil be like ketchup in every house,” adds Anna.

Evencia Thornhill, marketing/media manager

Lucy Haines is a long-time freelance writer, specializing in travel, food, arts and entertainment. When she isn't writing, Lucy is a busy mom to four fantastic kids, and enjoys singing and performing in the local community theatre scene.

TO FIND A RETAILER VISIT: LIQUORCONNECT.COM/+40873 @pws_canada @pacific_canada @pacificcanada

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Spice up your life: Alberta-based spice companies trade in freshness and flavour BY ELIZABETH CHORNEY-BOOTH

n this ongoing farm-to-table age, most of us take pride in knowing the names of the ranches our meat was raised on and the farms that grow our vegetables. We take pains to ensure our coffee and chocolate are sourced ethically and proudly choose craft beers and spirits over mass-produced international brands. Strangely, this philosophy rarely seems to extend to one of the most important elements of any good meal:

22 Culinaire November 2023

spices. Most Albertans don’t even know what the plants that produce cinnamon, turmeric, or nutmeg look like, let alone where those spices are shipped from or processed into powder. But, as a growing number of local spice companies emerge, our collective spice awareness is starting to blossom. There are a few reasons to choose to shop at a local spice shop rather than stocking your spice rack with those all-too-familiar grocery store brands. The path to local spice shops often

comes from expanding one’s recipe repertoire to include Indian dishes that call for more than a jar of pre-mixed curry paste or recipes from globally minded cookbook authors like Yotam Ottolenghi. Ingredients like rose harissa, sumac, and Aleppo pepper, which tend not to hang out on shelves in most Canadian supermarkets, have become more common on home cooks’ grocery lists in the last decade. “Ottolenghi is like a god to us,” says Stephen Gollan, proprietor of The

Copper Spice Co.

The Spice Merchant

Spice Merchant in Calgary. “Even five years ago za’atar was a really rare spice that nobody talked about, but because of his cookbooks everyone is coming in looking for za’atar. It’s become a common spice.” The other advantage is quality. If you’re buying local you’re more likely to be purchasing fresher spices with fewer (or no) additives, better sourcing, and more care being put into the production. This can be especially important for consumers with food allergies and sensitivities — it’s easier to ask a local brand exactly what goes into their spice mixes and what kind of facilities they’re produced in than it is to query a huge multi-national spice brand. “I don’t know of a large spice company that doesn’t use things like anti-caking ingredients,” says Rebecca Perkins, who runs the online retailer The Spice Age. “The number one reason to shop with small companies is for health. There are no additives, there’s no preservatives, just spice.” Are you ready to make the move to spicing things up on a more local level? Here are some Alberta-based businesses to get you started:

The Spice Merchant

A travel writer and photographer by trade, The Spice Merchant’s Stephen Gollan became interested in spices after experiencing spices right from the source while on a trip through India and east Africa. In part to continue funding his travel adventures, he started selling some of the spices he brought home from his trip and eventually grew his business into one of the most fulsome selections of spices in the province. A decade after Gollan’s spice journey began he’s selling spices in Calgary at his stand in the Crossroads Market, as well as through stores like the Calgary Italian Centre location, Okotoks Natural Foods, and the Millarville Farmers’ Market. He also ships across the country. Part of what makes the Spice Merchant so special is Gollan’s dedication to grinding all of his spices in-house — he isn’t ordering any powdered spices from their sources, which ensures freshness and ensures that he really does know exactly what’s in every one of his blends. Pushing even further, his travels have helped him develop relationships with farmers in 48 countries, who provide him with the highest-quality and most

ethically sourced products available. The Spice Merchant’s selection is massive: this is where you’ll find everything from Noomi black lime and Zanzibar curry to Indigenous Canadian products like wild boreal mint and yarrow. thespicemerchant.ca

Copper Spice Co.

For something cozy and homey, Edmonton’s Copper Spice Co. deals with a number of hard-to-find ground spices (things like amchoor, which is a made from unripe green mangoes and is used in Northern Indian cuisine, as well as several kinds of cinnamon) as well as handcrafted spice blends. In addition to using highquality ingredients, Copper’s strength is its sheer variety of blends and seasonings. Looking to add some zip to the rim salt on your Caesar? Copper Spice Co. has flavours like dill pickle, jalapeño horseradish, and gochugaru. BBQ rubs? They have over a dozen types, ranging from blackened cajun to Nordic lemon dill. You’ll also find dip mixes, popcorn seasoning, and flavoured salts. Choosing just one can be a challenge, so the company also offers plenty of gift sets since variety is, as they say, the spice of life. Copper Spice has carts at the Old Strathcona Farmers’ Market and the St. Albert Farmers’ Market and also sells online. copperspiceco.com November 2023 | Culinaire 23

The Spice Age

Based in Calgary but selling through an online shop, the Spice Age was born when Rebecca Perkins realized just how many additives were going into some of her favourite commercial spice blends, even those that claimed to be natural. The Spice Age isn’t so much about those hard-to-find global spices — Perkins’ aim is to provide healthy eaters with a little bit of zing in the form of easy-to-use spice blends, salad dressing seasoning, and powdered dip mixes. The dips have proven to be particularly popular. They’re a step up from an envelope of onion soup mix stirred into a tub of sour cream: packets of dill ranch powder, tzatziki seasoning, and green goddess mix can be mixed directly into Greek yogurt for an easy snack dip. It’s an easy convenience food with a list of ingredients that can be easily pronounced. thespiceage.ca

Cranky Jimmy’s

Edmontonian Jim Akerman has been running Cranky Jimmy’s since 2017. This is the place to source interesting meat rubs — varieties like jalapeño maple, Cajun mango, peach and sage, and blackberry will change the flavour of chicken, beef, and pork with almost zero effort. 24 Culinaire November 2023

Cranky Jimmy’s also sells a line of seasonings called Brass Ring, with taco, jerk, fajita, and several other blends. Meat and barbecue are at the centre of Cranky Jimmy’s business, but he also has a list of recipes for game day snacks to make good use of his seasonings. brassring.ca

The Spice Bar

Globally inspired cooks will want to take a look at Calgary’s Spice Bar. The specialty here is spice blends, particularly those that can help home cooks create outstanding African dishes like jollof rice, curried goat, and banga soup at home. Whether you’re of African heritage and want to simplify your favourite dishes or are looking to try something new, these blends and rubs will help to get the balance of spices right. The Spice Bar bills its blends as “storytellers” rather than mere ingredients — helping to add depth and complexity to traditional dishes. spicebaryyc.com

Maas BBQ

Want to add some smokiness to your cooking in a matter of seconds? Maas BBQ is a relatively new company located in Foothills County that is all about adding that deep smoky flavour with

products made from natural ingredients. Maas smokes its spices over three kinds of wood for a complexity of flavour, making for some truly unique products in our Alberta market. Their spice products include several kinds of smoked salt with both 12and 24-hour smoked sea salt — the difference in colour and flavour shows how much the smoking process can transform simple salt. Maas also offers smoked peppercorns, smoked red pepper flakes, smoked sugar (perfect for cocktail rims), and a sausage spice mix. maasbbq.square.site

Silk Road Spice Merchant

Much has been said about this esteemed spice shop — the business launched in 2008 to serve customers seeking out ingredients for recipes (coinciding, conveniently with the publication of the first Ottolenghi cookbook). Silk Road remains a destination one-stop-shop in Calgary and Edmonton for all the spices a home cook could dream of, including many that are ground in-house to ensure freshness, and hand-mixed spice blends. Many in Alberta would be at a loss without Silk Road’s Bow River fish blend or all-purpose blend in their pantries. silkroadspices.ca

Cookbook author and regular contributor to CBC Radio, Elizabeth is a Calgary-based freelance writer, who has been writing about music and food, and just about everything else for her entire adult life.

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A Taste of Heritage and Success:

Imee Tabanda Galvez

Chopstix Restaurant:

and Preserving Authentic Filipino Cuisine in Calgary

BY KATHERINE PUHL

n the culinary world, they say, “Life is a gamble; if you don't take risks, you won't be able to reach any form of success.” This adage perfectly captures the journey of Imee Tabanda Galvez, owner and operator of Chopstix Restaurant in Calgary. Born in Iloilo, Philippines, Galvez had lofty aspirations of becoming a doctor, driven by her passion for helping others. Close-knit family connections and strong friendships characterized her early life in the Philippines. She looked up to her grandfather and aimed to make him proud by pursuing a career in medicine. With a degree in nursing, she was excited about her journey of becoming a nurse in Canada. Galvez's connection to her roots is profound. Her great-great-grandfather

La Paz Batchoy soup

Imee Tabanda Galvez 26 Culinaire November 2023

created the iconic La Paz Batchoy soup, a traditional Filipino dish beloved by many. This heartwarming comfort food, originating in the 1920s, boasts fresh egg noodles adorned with fragrant garlic, onions, and crispy pork cracklings. Yet the real secret behind the flavourful La Paz Batchoy lies in the broth's richness and the quality of its ingredients. Chopstix's claim to fame is largely attributed to this very dish. Galvez inherited her grandfather's secret recipe, which has defied replication by numerous other restaurants. Her driving force, her unwavering commitment to her community, and her dedication to spreading joy empowered her to overcome the myriad of challenges and obstacles that inevitably accompany the restaurant business.

She explains, “I knew that my husband was a great cook, and together we could build a great business. I think the secret of our success is the fact that we both love what we do and support each other every step of the way.” In 2011, Galvez took the reins of Chopstix, then an Asian restaurant and the sole establishment offering Filipino cuisine in Calgary. Her husband, a culinary arts enthusiast who previously worked as a chef in larger restaurants primarily focusing on Western cuisine, saw this venture as an opportunity to reconnect with his culture and rediscover his heritage. In 2015, Chopstix officially rebranded, emerging as a bona fide Filipino restaurant. Its logo now proudly features the unmistakable fork and

people to feel at home, and this is why our new location will be twice the size of the original one.” The eagerly awaited south Chopstix location is set to open this fall. It will feature a traditional Filipino design, offering ample seating for 75 to 100 guests. Galvez notes that the Filipino community in Calgary is expanding, and interest in authentic Filipino cuisine is growing among people from various backgrounds. “There is a huge demand for an authentic dining experience with great service, and we will be able to provide it for people,” she smiles. Take your chance to experience this rich culture; Chopstix restaurant is located at 5315 17 Ave SE in Calgary. spoon, a symbolic representation of the Filipino tradition of using utensils to enjoy their meals. When Galvez reflects on the significance of Filipino cuisine in Canada, she emphasizes the importance of community. “It is customary in our culture to come together as a community and share delicious food with each other. Many people immigrating to Canada miss the communal aspect of their culture. Our customers are like family to us; they return because they know it's a place for our community.” Chopstix distinguishes itself in Calgary's culinary landscape by upholding high standards in preserving original, authentic recipes without tailoring them to suit Western tastes. This commitment provides an authentic dining experience for those seeking the true essence of Filipino cuisine. Galvez is a true businesswoman and entrepreneur at heart. Her passion lies in crafting a unique and memorable dining experience for her guests, and her mission is to create remarkable culinary journeys for all who visit Chopstix. When asked for her most valuable advice to aspiring entrepreneurs and newcomers to Canada, she underscores the importance of patience and dedication. She encourages starting small and gradually building up, asserting that anyone can achieve their goals with hard work and commitment. Galvez 's vision to build a successful

business is driven by her desire to serve her community, and supporting her husband on this journey has been one of the most rewarding experiences of her life. As she aptly puts it, “I am proud that we were able to create a place for

Katherine is a communications professional with a passion for all things culinary. As a writer her passion extends to exploring and understanding various culinary traditions, from street food to haute cuisine.

Batchoy Recipe:

Batchoy, or batsoy, is derived from the Chinese ba chui, meaning "meat water". The batchoy of La Paz Market, Iloilo's signature dish, is a rich pork and beef-based broth filled with yellow noodles and topped with cut-up roast pork, chicharron, fried garlic and scallions. Batchoy begins with a basic stock made with a mix of pork bones, intestines, liver, and beef bone marrow, simmered for many hours in a stockpot with salt, sugar and guinamos (fermented fish paste). The next day, the stock is skimmed and the precooked meat and toppings are added. Before serving, the marrow from the beef bones is added along with lechon (crispy golden-skinned roast pork) snipped with scissors. Before serving, the soup is garnished with fried garlic, chopped scallions and pieces of crispy chicharron (pork skin cracklings). The batchoy is traditionally served with white puto (steamed rice cakes). November 2023 | Culinaire 27

November Spirits

BY TOM FIRTH AND LINDA GARSON

Glencadam American Oak Reserve Highland Single Malt Whisky, Scotland Generous, if not a little on the opulent side. The Glencadam is all about rich, buttery, oak characters with spice, vanilla, and cereal tones, but also really leaning into those bourbon barrels. A fine transition spirit if coming from Bourbon into the world of Scotch too. Nicely heated towards the back end with a rather delicious, baked apple finish. Very nice indeed and don’t worry about the water – but if you must, only a little. CSPC 883768 $76-82 Millstone American Oak 9 Year Old Whisky, Netherlands Made with five different grains, but aged exclusively in American oak, this is a bit of a treat. On the nose, the corn, rye and barley is well represented and harmonious with a little bit of heat but good complexity too. It’s on the palate that things really shine with balance between citrus and stone fruit, and all those leather and old wood savouriness we love before a very long and very mellow finish. Absolutely best neat, take your time, and enjoy this one. CSPC 882131 $78-82 Macallan “The Harmony Collection” Intense Arabica Single Malt Whisky, Scotland Last year we enjoyed Macallan’s Harmony Collection Rich Cacao, and now there’s a new expression celebrating Ethiopian coffee beans – two of our favourites together in one bottle! You’re drawn in by the sweet nose of cocoa nibs and vanilla, and then a terrific, full and silky mouthfeel with espresso carefully balanced alongside the whisky notes of gingerbread and roast nuts. Completely delicious to sip alone (on your own and not adding anything to the whisky!) and we love that the packaging includes repurposed coffee bean husks. CSPC 1200578 $350-375 Highland Nectar Scotch Whisky Liqueur, Scotland My ideal way of beating cold evenings outside is sitting in my favourite chair in front of the fire and sipping a warming drink – and the new Highland Nectar certainly fits the bill, and fits its name too with its honeyed notes of 5-year-old whisky matured in sherry casks and infused with bitter orange and baking spices. It would be perfect with cognac and lime juice for your Bonny Prince Charles cocktail, or just sipping after dinner - after or with, or even instead of, dessert! CSPC 873865 500 mL $47-50 Laphroaig 10 Year Old Islay Single Malt Whisky, Scotland In many ways, Laphroaig is the epitome of the Islay expression of peated whisky. It’s richly imbued with the oily, iodine, salty, smoky fires, and charred notes that Islay’s whiskies possess, but it’s not over the top or bearing an ounce of shame over significant peat. It’s on the palate that all aspects of the spirit come together with unctuous deep smoky characters, tight lemon tones, and a lengthy saline finish. Big, brassy, and yes – unapologetic. With new, more sustainable packaging! CSPC 739119 $75-80 28 Culinaire November 2023

s summer came to a crashing halt – before we knew it, winter was right upon us. So this month, we were thinking about warming spirits – and whisky came to our minds rather easily. Most of our picks are international, with Scotland counting for a few selections, but we also had our sights on some whiskies from the Netherlands, from Japan, from America, and yes, Ontario. Not to worry, we are pretty certain that we’ll be updating our palates again soon and looking for some locally made spirits that have been knocking our socks off.

Forty Creek Cherrywood Reserve Niagara Whisky, Canada Loving the ranges of limited-edition whiskies gracing our shelves, and how so many are Canadian too. From Niagara’s Forty Creek comes their newest, Cherrywood bottling. Things start off pretty spicy in the glass with white pepper, but also gentle stone fruit, old wood and a little cherry too. Feeling rather hot in the glass with 45 percent ABV, the spirit is fairly rich and unctuous cherry fruits, and a dried fruit, nutty finish. A sipping whisky, but will also work with a splash of water, or Manhattan-style cocktails. CSPC 885276 $90-95 Shinobu Pure Malt Peated Whisky Mizunara Oak Finish, Japan Not quite sure how peated whiskies from Japan slipped under the radar so long – but hopefully they are here to stay. Aged in sherry and bourbon casks and finished in the unique Mizunara oak casks of Japan, this lightly peated whisky is well balanced, letting the grains still show off with the prominent flavours of the peat always clamouring for attention. Plenty of spice to go with the citrusy fruits, but also a lighter, oily and saline, slightly ashy finish. A charming and tasty spirit. CSPC 869694 $95-105 Kanekou Okinawa Whisky, Japan Made from three types of whisky, malt, wheat, and rice, and managing a uniquely, harmonious expression in the glass – this might be the perfect bridge if you are interested in Japanese whisky. Cleaner fruits with decidedly tropical characteristics and the freshness that rice spirits can achieve on both the nose and palate, while in the mouth it’s rather spicy, with a lengthy, saline finish. A touch hot at 43 percent, a little water fixes that PDQ. CSPC 858040 $72-75 Yellowstone Select Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey, United States 150 years after the original Yellowstone brand (and its namesake national park) was established, Steve and Paul Beam, great grandsons of the founding distiller, have released this whiskey to celebrate the brand’s revival, and a mighty fine tribute to great grandad it is too. Bottled at 93 proof, you’ll likely want to add a few drops of water, and you’ll be rewarded with spicy rye notes and complex flavours of chocolate cherries, caramel, and butter tarts, with a long, lingering finish. CSPC 852451 Around $65 Ezra Brooks 99, United States A very different, yet equally noteworthy bourbon, Ezra Brooks 99 has a mash bill of 10 percent rye, 78 percent corn and 12 percent malt. The lower rye and higher corn content is noticeable – less spicy, sweeter, and really well balanced to be amazingly smooth for a 99 proof bourbon. It’s creamy and an elegant sipper (and we didn’t need to add any water) with cacao, and hints of coconut from the new American white oak barrels, but equally at home in your favourite bourbon cocktail. A snip at this price and terrific value. CSPC 876368 $40-50 November 2023 | Culinaire 29

Curry Around the World STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHS BY NATALIE FINDLAY

Korma Curry Serves 4

2 Tbs (30 mL) ghee, or oil (divided, reserve ½) 1 medium onion, thinly sliced ¾ cup (180 mL) plain yogurt 1 tsp ground cumin 1 tsp ground cardamon 1/8 tsp cloves ½ tsp black pepper 2 tsp coriander 1 tsp paprika ½ tsp garam masala 1½ tsp turmeric powder 1 cinnamon stick 4 cloves garlic, minced 3 cm fresh ginger, minced 2 bay leaves 3 kafir lime leaves 454 g chicken, bone-in, skinless, chopped into pieces 1 tsp salt 1 green chili pepper, optional Chopped cilantro and crushed almonds for garnish

Korma Curry

he one thing you can always count on with a curry dish is a blend of spices to soothe the soul. Curry is not one spice but a mix of many spices, blended and allowed to mellow with the other ingredients to form a fragrant and delightful dish. This month, we have three different

30 Culinaire November 2023

curry dishes from around the world. Each has a slightly different flavour profile, and all are vying to be your next household staple. This Korma Curry from India is a light and fragrant curry using yogurt and spices such as ginger, cumin and the beloved turmeric as its base.

1. In a large, heavy-bottomed pan over high heat add the ghee or oil. 2. Add the onions and sauté until golden brown approximately 10-15 minutes. Transfer the onions to a blender along with yogurt and process until smooth. 3. Mix all the dry spices together. 4. In the same pan on medium heat, add the remaining ghee (or oil), 1 Tbs spice mixture, garlic, ginger, bay leaves, and lime leaves and sauté about 30 seconds. 5. Season the chicken pieces with 1 tsp of the spice blend and salt. Add the chicken pieces to the pot and cook 5-7 minutes. 6. Add the yogurt mixture. Reduce the heat to low and allow to cook for 25 minutes, stirring occasionally. Check for taste and the chicken for doneness. Adjust seasoning. 7. Serve with rice, and garnish with cilantro and crushed almonds.

continued on page 32

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Next let’s take a trip to the sunny Caribbean for our Jamaican Shrimp Curry.

Jamaican Shrimp Curry

Jamaican Shrimp Curry Serves 4

1 Tbs (15 mL) avocado oil 1 small onion, small dice 1½ Tbs ground turmeric 2 tsp paprika 1 Tbs ground coriander ½ Tbs ground cumin 1 tsp garlic powder ¼ tsp allspice ¾ Tbs ground ginger 2 Tbs ground fenugreek 1½ tsp black pepper ½ tsp cayenne 2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced 1½ tsp ground thyme ½ Tbs tomato paste ½ small red bell pepper ½ small yellow bell pepper 1 cup (240 mL) coconut milk 1 cup (240 mL) broth (seafood, vegetable or chicken) 1 scotch bonnet pepper, optional 454 g large shrimp, peeled and deveined To taste salt and pepper Green onion, thinly sliced for garnish 1. In a medium pot, over medium heat, add oil and onions. Cook 5 minutes. 2. Combine all dry spices for the curry powder blend. 3. Add 1½ Tbs curry powder blend, garlic, and thyme and cook 1 minute. Add tomato paste and cook 1 minute. 32 Culinaire November 2023

4. Add the bell peppers and cook another couple of minutes. Add the coconut milk and broth. You can add as much scotch bonnet pepper as desired at this point. Bring to a boil and reduce to simmer 10 - 15 minutes. 5. Add the shrimp and cook 3 - 5 minutes until shrimp has cooked through. 6. Taste and adjust seasoning with salt and pepper. Serve over rice and garnish with green onion.

Japan, here we come. Not a country that you traditionally associate with curry? Curry was imported into Japan by the British during the Meiji era which is why the Japanese consider it a Western dish and not an Asian one. Japanese curry is quite different from most other curries of the world — it has a thicker consistency and the taste leans on the sweet and savoury side. The sauce is rich and thick, and layered with spices with a hint of sweetness. It is a lot less spicy than most curries.

Japanese Karī - aka curry rice Serves 4

1 Tbs turmeric 1 tsp paprika 1 tsp coriander 1 tsp cumin 2 tsp ground fenugreek 1/8 tsp cloves ½ tsp fennel 1 tsp ground cardamon 1 tsp garlic powder ½ tsp black pepper ½ tsp ground ginger 1/8 tsp ground allspice ½ tsp cayenne or chili powder (optional) 1 Tbs (15 mL) avocado oil (or more as needed) 454 g stewing beef, cut into bite size pieces 1 tsp salt 1 tsp black pepper 1½ Tbs flour 1 medium onion, small dice 1 tsp tomato paste 2 carrots, peeled and cut on diagonal 1 apple, peeled and small diced 2 cloves garlic, finely chopped 2 cm fresh ginger, grated 3 strips orange peel

Japanese Karī

1 large potato, peeled and diced 1½ cup (240 mL) beef stock ¼ cup (60 mL) soy sauce 1. Mix together the dry spices for the curry powder spice blend in a small bowl. 2. In a medium pot over medium heat add oil. 3. Season beef with salt, pepper, 1 tsp curry blend and coat with flour. 4. Add 6-8 beef cubes to the oil (making sure not to overcrowd the pan). Brown beef and reserve. 5. In the same pan, add the onions and cook until browned 10-15 minutes. 6. Add the tomato paste and cook 2 minutes. Add the carrots, apple, garlic, ginger, orange peel, potato and 1½ Tbs curry blend, and stir to coat. 7. Add the beef. Add the beef stock and scrape the bottom of the pot to remove all the tasty, sticky bits. Bring mixture to a boil then reduce the heat and let simmer 35-40 minutes or until beef is tender. 8. Serve over rice. The curry powder examples here are a great way to start making your own curry blends.

Natalie is a freelance writer, photographer, and pastry chef. A graduate of Cordon Bleu’s pastry program, she manages her own business too to create custom-made cakes.

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Spice Up Your Winter BY ERIKA RAVNSBORG

t’s back - the frost slowly creeping up on your windowsill and once again, Old Man Winter is making his presence known, bringing on the ice and snow. We knew this day would come – when Halloween and pumpkin spice season is over. It is inevitable that we are going to be hit by winter because it’s Alberta. And in this province, we are sure to get some chilly weather. Spices make our foods flavourful as well as interesting with some special ingredients that will keep us going during the colder months. What would those spices be? What can I use them for? Well, here are some simple suggestions that would help make that feast fantastic.

does have a slight sugary taste to it as well. This easy Lemon Cumin Dip is the perfect recipe for when you want a healthy appetizer. You will need: 600 mL of plain Greek yogurt, 2-3 Tbs (30-45 mL) lemon juice, 1 tsp cumin powder, ½ a medium white onion (finely diced), and ½ cup of dill. Combine all ingredients and stir thoroughly. Serve with your favourite vegetables or chips. It’s delish!

Cloves: most often called for in meat Turmeric: from southeast Asia,

Cumin: a popular spice commonly used in Latin America, the Middle East, North Africa, and India, though many other countries cook with it as well. It can be used in seed or ground form. Often used as a savoury alternative to cinnamon, cumin has an earthy flavour, however it 34 Culinaire November 2023

turmeric is often used in Ayurveda, Siddha, and traditional Chinese medicine, though it’s primarily a culinary ingredient. It has a strong, peppery taste, which is slightly deceiving due to its musky aroma. Here is a good salad dressing recipe that will make any salad shine and be a little bit healthier than the rest: ½ cup (120 mL) olive oil, ¼ cup (60 mL) apple cider vinegar, 1 Tbs finely chopped shallot, 2 tsp (10 mL) honey, 1 tsp turmeric, ½ tsp garlic salt. Mix ingredients in a dressing container, and serve on your favourite salad.

dishes such as baked ham, curries, and marinades, cloves have a robust, almost hot tang, to them as well as a pungent flavour that packs a punch. An easy but delicious baked ham recipe that can be used by itself, in sandwiches, or even in a soup will surely keep you warm. All you need is a ham, brown sugar, whole cloves, and water. In a large roasting pan press the cloves into the top at 3-5 cms apart, cover the top of the ham with brown sugar, pour water in the pan until 2-3 cms deep, and then tightly cover the pan with aluminum foil. Heat oven to 350º F and cook the ham for around 40-50 minutes per kilo. Let sit for 20 minutes before serving.

need: 1 Tbs (15 mL) lemon juice, 1 teabag of ginger tea, 1 cup of boiled water, 1-3 tsp of (5-15 mL) honey, 3 Tbs (45 mL) whiskey, and 1 cinnamon stick. Mix all ingredients, serve, and enjoy.

Allspice: an important element in

Caribbean cuisine, in meat dishes, stews, tomato sauces, and even in desserts. Allspice has flavours similar to cinnamon, cloves, and nutmeg, which is why it’s often a substitute for those spices. A simple but spicy green bean recipe with tomato sauce will add a little something special to your table. What you need is: 1 Tbs (15 mL) olive oil, 1 medium onion, diced, 4 cups green beans (fresh or frozen), 400 mL cans of diced tomatoes and tomato sauce, and a small serving of allspice, cinnamon, and nutmeg (the amount of each is up to you). In a skillet cook the onions until they are translucent (7-9 minutes), add the rest of your ingredients and mix well. Bring to the boil then reduce heat to low. Stir and wait for the beans to become tender (20-30 minutes).

Ginger: used for culinary purposes and

folk medicines since the 14th century. Not just a popular flavour for teas and candies, ginger has a strong spicy flavour and is often described as warm but sweet. If you have access to young ginger, it has a more mellow tang to it than aged ginger. After finishing dinner, try a cocktail to ease your stomach, warm you up, and relax. Hot Toddy is a lovely ginger drink that does just that. You will

Cinnamon: Cinnamon is a crucial

part of many sweet and savoury dishes, with both a sweet and woody flavour. Monkey bread is an easy treat that can be made with this beautiful spice that is sure to bring joy to people of all ages. All you need are: 3 cans of refrigerated dough, 1 cup mixed white and brown sugar, ½ cup butter, 1 Tbs cinnamon. Cut the dough into quarters, mix the sugars and cinnamon in the melted butter. Put the biscuit pieces into a well-greased bundt pan, coat them with the cinnamon mixture, and bake in a preheated 350º F oven for 35-40 minutes. So, you see, a little spice can help with a bland feeling winter. We Albertans know how to keep warm in the wintertime. Whether it is a sassy drink or a sweet dessert, our weather will never get us down. So, grab a hot toddy and a piece of monkey bread while you sit by the window watching the snowfall. Accompanied by a snuggly blanket and a pet, you can wait out the winter in comfort.

Erika Ravnsborg is an Alberta freelance writer/ blogger/adventurer/explorer. Her blog, “This Magical World”, (magicalstoriestoshare.com) features her enchanted tales of travel, food, shopping, and culture.

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Don’t Waffle on Belgian Style Beers BY DAVID NUTTALL

o beer aficionados, Belgium is almost a Holy Land of beer. While it wasn’t invented there, the brewing traditions the Belgians have maintained for centuries have always endeared it to beer lovers the world over. Despite, or maybe because, it has very little in the way of local barley and hops, Belgians have featured yeast and individual brewing methods to showcase their beer. Not restricted by the rigid constraints of the Reinheitsgebot of Germany or the politics of British rules and regulations, hundreds of tiny breweries, from farmhouses to monasteries, have produced beers the way brewers intended, staying largely unchanged through time.

36 Culinaire November 2023

It seems ironic then, that the largest brewing conglomerate in the world is headquartered there and that until about 30 years ago, almost none of the country’s beers were available in Alberta. In the dark old days of ALCB stores, the only European beers one could find were British, Dutch, Danish, and German. However, upon privatization in 1993, several liquor agencies began to import Belgian beer. While only scratching the surface of the several hundred breweries within the country, it did give Albertans a taste of what Belgians were brewing. At the time, Canada’s few craft breweries avoided such esoteric beer styles, except for Unibroue of Quebec, who launched in 1992. This brewery

even employed a Belgian brewmaster, and soon its products began to appear on Alberta shelves. However, even as more craft breweries opened across Canada through the 1990s and 2000s, only breweries in Quebec seemed to brew Belgian style beers. Finally, in 2011, Village Brewery of Calgary introduced the Village Wit to Albertans, and since then dozens of local breweries have created their version of Belgian styles. So, what exactly makes a beer identify as Belgian? UNESCO has recognized its brewing culture as an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, even while many of its acknowledged styles are brewed all over the world. The Canadian Brewing Awards, Beer Judge Certification

Program (BJCP) and (American) Brewers Association all recognize around a half dozen distinct Belgian styles, with many more simply falling into the specialty category. Suffice to say, almost every wit, saison, farmhouse ale, sour, wood barrel or foeder aged, fruit, mixed fermentation, table, or “abbey” style beer brewed by craft breweries is an homage to Belgian brewing. These beers are often wheat ales that contain unique yeasts, with very little hopping, and are sometimes barrel aged and/or blended with previous vintages. Belgians are not shy about using maize, fruit, spices, sugars, or other adjuncts to create the necessary flavour profile. There are a couple of hundred imported Belgian beers available in Alberta, but here are just a few common styles, with some local examples.

Wit - probably

the most imitated Belgian beer. This wheat ale traditionally uses coriander and dried orange peel, but brewers freewheel with other spices and fruits now. Even conventional versions have subtle differences in flavour. Polyrythym Wing Nut Wheat (CSPC 888595) Rocky View Brewing Whiteout Witbier (830761) Brewsters Farmer’s Tan (804341) Branding Iron Brewing Wit The Heck (885905) Polar Park Polarberry Raspberry Wit (893701) - made using raspberries. Oldman River Brewing 181 Winter Wit (881364) - contains additions of gingerbread spice. Project Vast On Wednesday We Wear Pink (889029) - the colour comes from pink guava.

Blonde Ale one of the least complicated Belgian brews. Differentiated from its British counterpart by its higher alcohol, use of different yeasts, and the possible addition of sugars. Polyrythm Brewing Bells and Whistles – available at the brewery. XhAle Queen Bee (866597) - made with the addition of Fallentimber honey. Troubled Monk Harry Dunne Golden Sour (844975) - foeder-aged for 36 months. Saison a new craft brewing favourite, this spicy beer is highlighted by its namesake yeast. It can be brewed with a variety of grains, can come in an array of colours, and may contain sugary adjuncts. It can range from low alcohol table versions and go up to over 7 percent ABV. Wild Winds Zephyr Table Saison (888114) 3.5 percent ABV Xhale Saison Series - Saisoniest Saison (871736), a dark Saison and You Can’t Buy This Beer (871730), a blackcurrant dark saison. Trial and Ale - A Saison Apparent! (840057) - aged and then soured with brettanomyces. 88 Brewing Tiffany Rose Saison (885274) - made with the addition of red wine grapes.

Grisette - a variant of saison, usually light in body and colour, with low alcohol. Troubled Monk Skinny Dippin’ (894569) - 3.6 percent ABV Flanders Red - caramel malts

and maize give it an amber colour, then it is soured, aged in oak, and sometimes blended. Can taste acidic with hints of dark fruit. Troubled Monk Lloyd Christmas (844986) - foeder-aged for 36 months Annex Ales Sponsored ContentFlanders Red Ale (863404)

Tripel - a more complex, higher alcohol version (8-10 percent ABV) of golden ales, with mild spicy characteristics, often bottle-conditioned. Blindman 8th Anniversary Belgian Tripel (895749) Apex Mad Trapper (878456) Endeavour Edith- Barrel Aged (873905) - soured in oak wine barrels with apricots. Belgian Dark Strong contains dark malts, spices, candied sugars, and yeast that produces fruity esters and high alcohol. It often comes in barrelaged versions. Oldman River St. Joe’s Abbey Style Brown Ale (843308) Blindman Year 7 Belgian Dark Strong (877741) Brewsters Oh My Quad! – special release. Most beers are around $15-$20 per 4 pack cans. Individual bottles run from $10-$20 per 500-750 mL bottle.

David has worked in liquor since the late 1980s. He is a freelance writer, beer judge, speaker, and since 2014, has run Brew Ed monthly beer education classes in Calgary. Follow @abfbrewed.

November 2023 | Culinaire 37

MAKING THE CASE

for Greatness By TOM FIRTH

electing wines to recommend this month was a little different. It wasn’t about what was fun, or cool, something that was expensive, or suitable for the month of November, but what it became about was some really exciting and great bottles of wine (and a sake!) that recharged the palate, got me pumped up about excellent wines, and yes, virtually all these bottles were also brand new to me – but all of them were really very good. This month, a few countries and regions are represented, as well, there are a few pricier bottles – so if you wish to stock up on something special now for the holiday season, I’d highly recommend these bottles, but if you are also just feeling the need for a little treat for yourself or a savourable, enjoyable bottle to unwind with, I’d be equally happy to recommend these. Find these wines by searching the CSPC code at Liquorconnect.com; your local liquor store can also use this code to order it for you. Prices are approximate.

Tanaka 1789 x Chartier Blend 002 Sake, Japan

A Junmai Daiginjo sake, designed from the ground up, in partnership with pioneering molecular gastronomist, Francois Chartier, to be a bridge between fine wine and fine sake. Richly layered with the unctuous, umami characters sake possesses, but also finer, brighter acids akin to wine that sake traditionally lacks. Tropical, spicy, and wonderful with a range of cuisines, it’s a bit mind-blowing too. Pair with food as you might an Alsatian pinot gris with duck, lychee, peppercorns or pork. Serve cool but ideally not cold. CSPC 891497 About $135-145

Tom has been waxing on (and on) about wine, beer, and spirits for more than 25 years and freelances, consults, and judges on beverages all year long. He is the Managing Editor for Culinaire Magazine, and the Competition Director for the Alberta Beverage Awards.

38 Culinaire November 2023

Hello Someday 2020 Riesling Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

A fine example of the steely, racy rieslings coming out of BC these days and this one is also quite dry, laden with flinty, mineral tones, and tart tropical fruits. A teeny bit of sweetness on the palate is very welcome and helps to balance the zesty acids and apple fruits too. A delicious quaffer, it would be a fine glass, and well suited to holiday style meals or fusion style cuisine. CSPC 835281 $25-26

Presqu’ile Estate Syrah Santa Barbara, California

If I were to sum up this syrah in a single word, it would probably be “vibrant”. Entirely drinkable from start to finish with loads of white pepper spice, olive, smoke, and an intense, savoury meatiness that plays oh-so-well with floral richness and a slight saltiness. Dynamic and complex, it’s perfect on its own, but begs for layered, meaty dishes to bring everything into perspective. From the smoker or grill too if you don’t mind. CSPC 861216 $55-58

Sons of Sugarland 2022 Barbera Western Cape, South Africa

Say what?! Barbera from South Africa? Yes please! There are about 50 hectares planted of it in South Africa and perhaps there should be a little more. Deep and dark in the glass with perfumed notes, peppery spices, and some well-structured fruits. Tannins are fairly subtle, but very well integrated and supported by great fruits. Try pairing with rich or full flavoured game meats or smoked meat, but this will also work out nicely with good pizza, meaty sauces, or hard cheese. CSPC 887648 $31-34

Hello Someday 2020 Syrah Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

Domaine Nico 2021 Grand Père Pinot Noir, Uco Valley, Argentina

Domaine Nico 2021 Grand Mère Pinot Noir, Uco Valley, Argentina

Patrimony 2019 Cabernet Franc Paso Robles, California

Castello di Bolgheri 2021 Flocco Tuscany, Italy

Presqu’ile Bien Nacido Chardonnay Santa Barbara, California

Nestor 2022 Fileri Rosé, Messinia Greece

Patrimony 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon Paso Robles, California

Mazzei 2018 Ser Lapo Chianti Classico Reserva, Tuscany, Italy

A well-deserved Judges Selection at the 2023 Alberta Beverage Awards, the syrah in this bottle is spicy and floral with a full complement of savoury characters, but also some more delicate flavours of strawberry and raspberry. Easy to drink, and serious too, but also very versatile at the table, it would be a fine match with red meats or hard cheese, but also a nice charcuterie board. CSPC 878627 $40-43

I’m not going to lie, I love a great cabernet franc, and this might be one of the finest I’ve ever tried. Made from 100 percent cabernet franc, and it’s no exaggeration to say that it’s made with every attention to detail in the vineyard and in the winery. Abounding with tobacco leaf, cherry fruits, dense floral characters, and so much more, this is drinking perfectly now, and while ageable (10-20 years more) it’s a cab franc lovers dream. CSPC 875975 $430-450

A cool new rosé? Check. Made from an unusual grape? Check. From Greece? Check, check, and check. Made from the filari grape and apparently pretty good in a rosé even in the colder temperatures. Awash with rock candy and cotton candy aromas with lovely, tart cranberry and raspberry fruits and even a little jammy on the palate, but crisp and dry. Well balanced and very, very tasty, this is a little showstopper to bring out with lighter meats, seafood, or creamy cheeses. CSPC 883002 $22-24

A dedicated pinot noir project from the Catena family of Argentina, but also centred around exceptional, ideal sites for growing this wonderful grape. Sourced from a 2-hectare site, this slightly smoky pinot is brightly floral but blessed with rich fruits too. Polished and sexy, with silken textures, this may just change your mind about pinot noir from Argentina and where it should come from. Delicious. CSPC 869624 $35-40

A sangiovese dominant blend with merlot and cabernet sauvignon, this is a clean, modern, great drinking wine that has all the classic versatility at the table too. Tightly wound with bright acids, fairly mellow tannins, and tart cherry style fruits. It’s the cabernet that really ties this one together with a clean spice and floral character (plus a little extra tannin) to be enjoyed with rich tomato sauces or meatier fare. A fine bottle to have on hand year-round. CSPC 889514 $31-33

Representing about two thirds of Patrimony’s production, it’s pretty obvious to me that they deeply understand this king of grapes – cabernet sauvignon. A rather “wild” expression of the grape with wild, berry fruits, cedar and dill, tobacco, and spice to name a few. Serious, near brooding on the palate – as it should be – but remarkably refined too and a pleasure to drink. Far too young to really enjoy now, it’s a legacy bottle for sure and a worldclass cab in every regard. Outstanding! CSPC 875976 $430-450

Compared with the grandfather pinot noir, the grand mère is a little more New World in approach with slightly more distinctive and open fruit presence, with brightness and fresh herb, but also a lifted vegetable leaf presence. A little tight on the palate, the tannins and acids crave a little richness at the table; this would be stunning with duck or pork, but also just a damn good pinot when the need strikes. CSPC 869623 $35-40

The Bien Nacido vineyard is widely considered one of the finest vineyards in California and the wines we see from it are all outstanding bottles. The Presqu’ile (press-Keel) is delicious in every regard, but also tremendous value too for fans of great chardonnay. Nuanced and evolving in the glass, it’s a wine that draws one’s full attention and at the same time brings to mind that we really should be more on the lookout for great chardonnay. A stunner for certain. CSPC 861209 $65-69

A simply lovely bottle of Chianti Classico that checks off all the boxes and is a heck of a price too. Deep cherry and currant fruits with a wildness or brambly character with tremendous floral and spice box complexity. Generous fruits on the palate with support from crisp acids and integrated tannins. A real quaffer that will also work for special occasions, it will be a good match with bigger sauces, stews, or even grilled meats and hard cheese. Delicious in every regard. CSPC 176842 $35-38 November 2023 | Culinaire 39

e tce te r a . . . Stoked Oats Gluten-Free Pancake Mixes

Much loved for their oatmeal and granola, local company, Stoked Oats, have launched two new superfood pancake mixes. Using only non-GMO organic oats from Alberta and Saskatchewan, Mountain Maple mix is made with maple syrup from Quebec, while the Bucking-Eh mix includes apples from Washington. High protein and low sugar, just add water or milk and an egg or mashed bananas for very tasty, nutritious, quick and easy, pancakes or waffles. 285 g around $10, widely available. stokedoats.com Blue Flame Kitchen (BFK) Express

Express is a new range of frozen, single portion meals from Blue Flame Kitchen, and when you’re in a hurry, they’re literally ready to eat in just three or four minutes heated in a microwave. As you’d expect from BFK, they’re made with fresh, locally sourced ingredients, and all prepared and packaged in their full-scale production facility in Calgary, vegan and vegetarian choices too. Our faves were the Shepherd’s Pie and Butter Chicken. At Circle K, Calgary Co-op, Blush Lane, and Spud.ca, around $8-9.

Cuisipro Silicone Tools

Melitta Canada’s New Sustainable Certifications

In an effort to help us all make more environmentally responsible and sustainable choices, Melitta Canada has added planet-friendly, 100% Arabica Rainforest Alliance whole bean coffee to their line up as well Forest Stewardship Council and Biodegradable Products Institute Certified filters. Supporting farmers who employ responsible practices, there are four varieties to choose from in their range of newly certified whole bean coffees: Colombia Altura Blend, French Roast, Espresso Bellacrema, and Hazelnut Crème. 907 g, around $20-23

Vine & Dine at One18 Empire November 16, 21, and 29 We’re in the beautiful private dining room for six pairing courses of delicious upscale dishes! For only 20 people each night. A One-Off Fine & Dine evening at Franca’s, November 15 Franca’s is opening specially for us for this 6-course, authentic Italian pairing meal! 40 Culinaire November 2023

Vine & Dine at Onyx November 19 and December 18 We’re in the private dining room at this brand new restaurant for a fine dining pairing menu! Special Kitchen Party at Show & Canoe November 25 and December 20 A very special elevated 6-course pairing meal in the upstairs kitchen with the chefs! Christmas in Italy at Bonterra Trattoria December 13 We’re back again for Christmas in Italy at Bonterra. This evening sells out every year!

We’re big fans of the stylish and elegant Cuisipro Tempo range of stainlesssteel ladles, tongs, spoons, and turners, but mindful of keeping our favourite non-stick pans in the best condition, this issue we’re choosing their silicone tools that not only look good but are food-safe, and odour and stain resistant. They’re heat-resistant too up to 425º F/220º C, and bonus – they’re dishwasher safe and the silicone head can be removed from the stainless-steel handles for easy cleaning. Around $20.

One-Off Festive Vine & Dine at Ruby & The Beast, December 15 We’re enjoying six dishes from Ruby & The Beast’s new winter menu! Luxury Wine & Culinary Tour of Northeast Spain, May 27–June 5, 2024 Just two places available for this fabulous all-inclusive tour! New events are added regularly so check vineanddine.ca, they can sell out quickly! Email linda@culinairemagazine.ca to reserve your places. We try to cater for all allergies

A Look at Food Insecurity When you know, you can start to make change. Food insecurity is when a household has inadequate or insecure access to food due to financial constraints.

The 2023 Vital Signs report is out now.

It’s on the rise:

Discover more about local food insecurity with Vital Signs. Read Now.

In 2011, 12.3% of Albertans were experiencing food insecurity. In 2022 that number jumped to 20.3%.

Some experience it more than others: 21.7% of children (people under the age of 18) lived in food insecure households in Alberta. (2021) 28.9% of Black households living with food insecurity compared to 11.1% of white households. (2017-2018) 30.7% of Indigenous households in Canada were

Between 2000 and 2020, the average grocery bill has increased by 70%.

experiencing food insecurity, twice the amount of white households. (2022)

Edmonton Vital Signs is an annual checkup conducted by Edmonton Community Foundation, in partnership with Edmonton Social Planning Council, to measure how the community is doing.

O PE N TH AT B OT TLE

...with

Chris Fodor BY LINDA GARSON

aised in Victoria on Vancouver Island, Chris Fodor started in hospitality at 10 years old. A classmate's father was catering a school event, and he was recruited to flip burgers. “I didn't do very well at burgers, so I was quickly moved to buns. We weren't toasting the buns, we were just opening the bags,” he laughs. As a minor he volunteered busing tables and washing dish for eight years, also working while studying business administration and human resource management at Camosun College. Fodor worked in Whistler at the Four Seasons, then returned to Victoria to the Marriott, where he met Peter and Jane Ellmann of Muse Winery. “I visited the winery in 2007 and was offered a job. It's an idyllic spot, and it’s where I met Karen, my wife. We were engaged in the vineyard.” He’d visited Yarra Valley in Australia in 2003, and fallen in love with wine and the vineyards, yet he never thought of it for a career. In 2013 they came to Calgary where Fodor worked in different hospitality jobs, including nearly five years at Nicole Gourmet. Moving to Okotoks forced a change, and they thought of starting a winery. “We knew we couldn't afford land in the Okanagan, and Karen told me (she's a rancher's daughter) that I’m not a farmer, and I’d never be able to grow grapes,” laughs Fodor. They knew of the urban winery concept from the US, and decided to buy grapes. “At Muse, we bought grapes from the Okanagan as we only had three acres, so we took the leap, starting as a virtual winery while we figured everything out learning about equipment and hands-on training in the Okanagan,” says Fodor. 42 Culinaire November 2023

They moved into their current location and opened February 1, 2020. “The first wine we made without supervision was a zinfandel rosé with Californian grapes, and it went effervescent in the bottle despite my best attempts,” he says. “I was doing so many things; building the winery, making wine, we just had our second child, and I forgot to remove the yeast. People loved it though, it was amazing how quickly it sold.” Now they’re better winemakers, and refocused to make fewer wines than in the early days, as well as custom labeling wine when people put on their own label for gifts and celebrations. “We do all kind of events to share our passion; Fondue Fridays are fun and our Autumn Tasting Festival is coming up on November 4. For Valentine's Day we’re releasing a sparkling and having a little party. We no longer charge a facility rental fee for people to hold their events with us.” “Right now, we're just focusing on the next three months and then next year we hope to be in more liquor stores and restaurants, and have more people come and enjoy the winery. We're only open two days a week, and I would love to be able to expand if business permits,”

he adds. “We'll see what the New Year brings.” What bottle is Fodor saving for a special occasion? He has a bottle of 2008 Grande Dame Rouge, a Bordeaux-style blend from Muse Winery. “When I first tried it, I had no idea that a red wine could be like this because I was still so junior in my years,” he says. “I just loved it; I loved the story of it, I loved the label, the gold embossing, the tall, broad-shouldered bottle. It was just everything, and it's under cork which gives it a shelf life. It’s those memories of being in Deep Cove and little flashes to the Okanagan and what my future held for me, so I'm really looking forward to opening it and enjoying it. I'm going keep the empty bottle, to keep holding on to the memories of being there.” “I’m not sure when I’ll open it, maybe over the holidays when, more than anything, I just want to be able to sit down and relax and enjoy it. I’ll probably try it in the middle of the afternoon and then make dinner and have some more, and maybe open another bottle after that. But most of all, enjoy the memories.”

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Culinaire #12.6 (November 2023)

Articles inside

...with Chris Fodor

They could stand the heat, but time came for this mother-daughter business duo to get out of the kitchen

Classic Pot Roast

Slow and Steady

Sensei Bar's Shiitake Baklava

Diversity…

ON THE COVER