The Stalks of Spring

BY MALLORY FRAYN

Spring is a season teeming with new life, and one of the first signs is the bounty of delicious stalks and shoots that pop out of the ground once temperatures have warmed sufficiently. Rhubarb, asparagus, and fiddleheads, are three of the most prized delicacies come May, and can all be found on Alberta soil. Let’s explore what you can do with them!

Rhubarb

Rhubarb, or Rheum Rhabarbarum (try saying that three time fast), is a perennial plant and member of the smartweed (Polygonaceae) family. While many Polygonaceae members aren’t actually edible, rhubarb is in good company with its other delicious relatives, sorrel and buckwheat. Because rhubarb is well suited to harsh and variable growing conditions, it can thrive in Alberta and is a common fixture in backyard gardens.

There are at least 14 different varieties of rhubarb grown in Alberta, all of which vary in their colour, sourness, and heartiness. Some varieties, such as German Wine rhubarb are used for just that, the making of rhubarb wine, while others, such as MacDonald (or Mcdonald) rhubarb tend to be used for pie filling. Rhubarb can be harvested multiple times in a single season, with the first crop usually available in May or June, and the second come late July. If you’re not lucky enough to have fresh rhubarb in your own garden, or that of someone you know, it’s usually pretty easy to find at local farmers’ markets.

While rhubarb compote and strawberry rhubarb pie may be some of the first options to come to mind when you think about these pink stalks, rhubarb is more versatile than you may think. Yes, it needs a lot of sugar in sweet applications, but its tartness also makes it a great candidate for savoury items too. Think rhubarb vinaigrette or mignonette, or infusing it in homemade lemonade for a tart and refreshing thirst quencher.

Rhubarb Eton Mess

Serves 4

For the poached rhubarb:

4 stalks rhubarb (about 400g), cut into 3 cm chunks

2 cups white granulated sugar

2 cups (500 mL) water

For the Chantilly cream:

1 cup (250 mL) heavy cream

¼ cup white granulated sugar

½ vanilla bean, seeds scraped out or

1 tsp (5 mL) vanilla extract

About 2 cups worth of store-bought meringues, crushed

1. For the poached rhubarb, make a simple syrup by fully dissolving the sugar in the water. This can be done either in a pot on the stove, or in the microwave. Heat the oven to 200º F. Put the rhubarb in an oven proof dish and pour the simple syrup over it, using enough to fully cover the stalks. Cover with tin foil and cook for around 45-60 minutes, until the stalks are tender, but not disintegrating. Allow the rhubarb to cool at room temperature. Once cool, it can be stored in the syrup in the fridge for up to a week.

2. For the Chantilly cream, whip the heavy cream until soft peaks form. Add in the sugar and vanilla and continue to whip until stiff peaks. The Chantilly can be made in advance and chilled until ready to serve.

3. For assembly, you can use 4 small mason jars or small bowls, whatever you have on hand. Layer a spoonful or two of poached rhubarb on the bottom, followed by a couple of healthy dollops of Chantilly cream, more rhubarb, and finally, more cream (2 layers of each). Generously sprinkle the crushed meringues over top of each and serve.

Asparagus

Asparagus officinalis was once classified as a lily, but now belongs to its own family, Asparagaceae. Despite being able to find it in most grocery stores year-round, it grows locally in Alberta in the months of May and June.

Innisfail producer, Edgar Farms, is the most widely known grower of asparagus in the province and has almost 30 acres of crops. Come late spring, you can find their asparagus in farmers’ markets across Alberta, with booths in Edmonton and Calgary. Historically they have also hosted an annual asparagus festival on their property, which has been on hiatus due to COVID, but stay tuned in case it makes a resurgence!

While you’re probably most familiar with green asparagus, it comes in other colours as well. White asparagus are quite prized and as such, also quite expensive. They only differ from their green counterparts in that they are grown in the dark, preventing the production of chlorophyll, which is responsible for asparagus’ typical, green colour. Purple asparagus is another cultivar you may come across. It tends to be a bit sweeter than others because its sugar content is about 20 percent higher.

Whether you serve it cooked or raw, just be sure of one thing; don’t overcook it. No one is a fan of brown, stringy stalks that have had the life and freshness roasted out of them.

Fiddleheads

Technically a fern and not a “stalk” per se, fiddleheads are the coiled fronds of young ostrich ferns, which are harvested before they have the chance to unfurl. They grow wild and are foraged come spring, and while you can try to cultivate them should you own property suitable for growing them, there aren’t any local farms you can purchase them from. Because of differences in climate, they tend to grow better in BC than they do here in Alberta, but if you know where to look or are lucky enough to have someone who is willing to divulge their foraging secrets to you, you can find them here and there in the province. They tend to grow best in wetter areas, near water, just make sure as always when you are out foraging that you aren’t traipsing around on private property.

Of note, fiddleheads ought never to be consumed raw because they contain natural toxins that will lead to unpleasant digestive issues like nausea. Thankfully cooking removes these toxins making these delicious, grassy fronds, safe and tasty to consume.

Asparagus or Fiddleheads with Gribiche

Serves 4

2 bunches of asparagus (about 454 g) or the same weight of fiddleheads

4 large eggs

2 cornichons, small diced

1 tsp capers, minced

2 Tbs chives, finely chopped

2 Tbs fresh parsley, finely chopped

1 Tbs (15 mL) Dijon mustard

½ Tbs (7.5 mL) grainy mustard

1-2 Tbs (15-30 mL) olive oil

To taste fresh lemon juice

To taste salt and pepper

1. Cook the eggs until hard boiled, but not so far that a grey ring develops around the exterior, about 10 minutes. It’s ok if the yolk isn’t fully set as it will help the sauce come together. Cool, peel, and chop, as if making egg salad.

2. While the eggs are cooking, you can prepare the remainder of the ingredients, chopping the pickles, capers, chives, and parsley.

3. Once the eggs are cooked, chopped, and cooled slightly, stir all the ingredients together and season to taste with the lemon juice, salt, and pepper. Set aside.

4. If you are serving the gribiche with asparagus, trim the tough part of the stalk and steam until tender but not overcooked, about 4-5 minutes, tops.

5. If you are serving the gribiche with fiddleheads, boil in salted water for about 7-10 minutes. Drain and shock them in an ice bath to stop the cooking and set the colour.

6. Serve by spooning generous dollops of gribiche atop either vegetable, garnishing with extra chopped chives if desired.

Mallory is a Calgary clinical psychologist and food writer now living and eating in Montreal. Her goal is to help people develop healthier relationships with food. Follow her on Twitter @drfrayn.