What to Expect from Alberta Brewing in 2023

BY DAVID NUTTALL

Last month we looked at where Alberta breweries were headed in 2023 with respect to upping their marketing game and providing more inviting locations, not only for all members of society, but for all types of drinkers. To appeal to those not into beer, almost all taprooms now have non-alcoholic options, ciders, coolers (RTDs), and maybe even spirits and wine, which harks back to the old adage - it’s what’s in the glass that counts.

Since most Alberta breweries are less than a decade old, many are still exploring what kinds of beer styles and products will grab the consumer’s attention. When craft brewing began to hit its stride about 30 years ago, its sole purpose was to provide beer options that were different, exciting, and more flavourful than the mass-produced yellow lagers that dominated North American brewing. Now, the very ubiquity of craft beer makes it less of a mystery to most people; it’s what is expected from a brewery that keeps changing.

So what can Albertans look forward to in 2023 from local breweries? Variety will continue to rule, partly driven by consumer demand for new products and partly directed by what brewers want to make, which is often determined by the ingredients available. Lately, this last part has been evolving probably faster than most brewers would like. Driven by science, Mother Nature, economic issues and more, the four main components of beer have all been affected this decade.

Barley is the biggest agricultural product in beer, and it has been on a wild ride for the last couple of years. While Western Canada’s 2021 harvest was 37 percent below 2020 and 21 percent below the 10-year average, the *2022 harvest was 46 percent higher than 2021 and 17 percent higher than the 10-year average. This is one of the biggest twoyear swings in decades. Is this an anomaly or the new norm with changing global weather patterns? Add in the unexpected war in the Ukraine (the world’s third largest barley exporter in 2021), and global supplies have taken a hit. This affects what types of malt are available for breweries to purchase, which influences what kinds of beers they can make. Local farmers hope for the best.

Hops have been another matter. The restrictions enacted due to the COVID pandemic reduced brewing production through large parts of 2020-2022, resulting in an oversupply of hops. While this crop has always had a cyclical nature to it, due to the rise and fall in popularity of certain beer styles, this decade has been unique with the supply of each harvest exceeding demand. As a result, many of the Pacific Northwest hop growers have reduced their acreage anywhere from 15 percent to 40 percent.

This area is Alberta’s biggest hop supplier, and while prices should be reduced in the short-term, which varietals survive the culling will determine brewing going forward. Alberta’s hop growers are increasing in both numbers and acreage, but they are far too small to supply local brewers. However, expect more beers highlighting Albertan or Canadian grown hops in 2023, as brewers try to produce beers with 100 percent local ingredients.

As the biggest component of beer, one could say water is also the most important. While Alberta has a relatively reliable supply now, there are red flags that are concerning. Shrinking glaciers, overuse, and drought conditions can destabilize a water supply very quickly. Add in a growing population we haven’t seen since the boom years of the last century, and watershed management becomes paramount. Alberta has nowhere near the frightening conditions of the American southwest, where a decades-long drought and exploding population has led to water shortages and municipalities declining brewing licenses. Breweries will continue to try to lower their water usage and reuse as much as possible.

Yeast may not be the flashiest ingredient in beer, but it is the workhorse. With brewers learning about more beer styles, and with more labs supplying the tools for creative breweries, the variety can be endless. If you include water chemistry-inspired beers, experimental brewing methods, barrel-aging projects, sour series, seasonal specialties, and the use of more local ingredients like fruit, vegetables, herbs, spices and more, the science of brewing becomes more exciting.

In 2023, breweries will continue to look for the next “big thing”. Lagers and IPAs in all their iterations will continue to flourish, with yeasts, new hop varieties, extractions, and adjuncts becoming the stars of the beer. The session ale seems to be dropping in popularity, as those that want to drink, want more ABV (alcohol by volume).

Alternatively, the dozens of low alcohol beer styles that have been around for centuries will continue to be explored. Non-alcoholic and gluten-free beers are not going away, as their variety and quality continues to improve. Non-beer offerings like cocktails, RTDs, and the like will persist. Are hop water and barley water far behind? Alberta beers will not lack in variety, but breweries will begin to prioritize certain brands that work for them and their customers.

Look for more collaboration beers between breweries. Additionally, new breweries will open, not at the rate seen in 2016-19, but those who planned or waited through the restrictions should open their doors soon. Finally, look for breweries to embrace their role as the new local watering hole, akin to the pubs of yesteryear.

David has worked in liquor since the late 1980s. He is a freelance writer, beer judge, speaker, and since 2014, has run Brew Ed monthly beer education classes in Calgary. Follow @abfbrewed.