DUBROVNIK FIELDWORK GUIDE

Welsh School of Architecture Architectural Design 1 Winter Term 2012

Dubrovnik Fieldwork Guide AD1 core team: Dr Cristian Suau Sam Clark Juliet Odgers

Framing Dubrovnik

‘Those who seek paradise on earth should come to Dubrovnik’.

By George Bernard Shaw

Dubrovnik Fieldwork Guide 29 Jan – 03 Feb 2012 UK team Dr Cristian Suau (CS) Sam Clark (SC) Juliet Odgers (JO) Catherine Pease (CP) Maria Kramer (MK) Peter Feldmann (PF) John Carter (JC) Marc Sustr (MS) Andrew Faulkner (AF) Croatian team Iva, Nikolina and Morana

Old City of Dubrovnik

Source: UNESCO/CLT/WHC

Brief Description The ‘Pearl of the Adriatic’, situated on the Dalmatian coast, became an important Mediterranean sea power from the 13th century onwards. Although severely damaged by an earthquake in 1667, Dubrovnik managed to preserve its beautiful Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque churches, monasteries, palaces and fountains. Damaged again in the 1990s by armed conflict, it is now the focus of a major restoration programme co-ordinated by UNESCO. Description The ‘Pearl of the Adriatic’, on the Dalmatian coast, was an important Mediterranean sea power from the 13th century onwards. Although severely damaged by an earthquake in 1667, Dubrovnik managed to preserve its beautiful Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque churches, monasteries, palaces and fountains.

Dubrovnik was founded in the first half of the 7th century by a group of refugees from Epidaurum, who established their settlement at the island and named it Laus. The Latin name Ragusa (Rausa), in use until the 15th century, originated from the rock (Lat. lausa = rock). Opposite that location, at the foot of Srđ Mountain, the Slavs developed their own settlement under the name of Dubrovnik, derived from the Croatian word dubrava, which means oak woods. When the channel that separated these two settlements was filled in the 12th century they were united. From the time of its establishment the town was under the protection of the Byzantine Empire; after the Fourth Crusade the city came under the sovereignty of Venice (12051358), and by the Treaty of Zadar in 1358 it became part of the Hungarian-Croatian Kingdom, when it was effectively a republican free state that reached its peak in the 15th and 16th centuries.

Old City of Dubrovnik An economic crisis in Mediterranean shipping and, more particularly, a catastrophic earthquake on April 1667 that levelled most of the public buildings, destroyed the well-being of the Republic. This powerful earthquake came as a turning point in the city’s development.

Dubrovnik is a remarkably well-preserved example of a late-medieval walled city, with a regular street layout. Among the outstanding medieval, Renaissance and Baroque monuments within the magnificent fortifications and the monumental gates to the city are the Town Hall (now the Rector’s Palace), dating from the 11th century; the Franciscan Monastery (completed in the 14th century, but now largely Baroque in appearance) with its imposing church; the extensive Dominican Monastery; the cathedral (rebuilt after the 1667 earthquake); the customs house (Sponza), the eclectic appearance of which reveals the fact that it is the work of several hands over many years; and a number of other Baroque churches, such as that of St Blaise (patron saint of the city).

The original World Heritage site consisted solely of the defences and the intra-mural city. It was later extended to include the Pile medieval industrial suburb, a planned development of the 15th century, and the Lovrijenac Fortress, located on a cliff, which was probably begun as early as the 11th century, but owes its present appearance to the 15th and 16th centuries.

Also included were the Lazarets, built in the early 17th century to house potential plague-carriers from abroad, the late 15th-century Kase moles, built to protect the port against south-easterly gales, and the Revelin Fortress, dating from 1449, which was built to command the town moat on its northern side.

Old City of Dubrovnik The island of Lokrum lies to the south-east of Dubrovnik, some 500 m from the coast. In 1023 it became a Benedictine abbey, the first of several in the Republic of Dubrovnik. It was continually enlarged in succeeding centuries, passing to the Congregation of St Justina of Padua in the late 15th century, when a new monastery was built in Gothic-Renaissance style to the south of the ruins of the Benedictine establishment.

During their occupation of the island in the early 19th century the French began work on the construction of the Fort Royal Fortress, which was completed by the Austrians in the 1830s. In 1859 Archduke Maximilian of Austria (later Emperor of Mexico) bought the island with the intention of building a villa in classical style on the ruins of the Benedictine abbey, but only a small part of this work was completed.

Historical Description The proposed extension to the west of the old city includes part of the Pile suburb, with the Brsalje plateau.

It marks the point where a major road entered the Roman town that preceded medieval Dubrovnik, and archaeological excavations have revealed the presence there of a Palaeochristian basilica, as well as medieval cemeteries. The Lovrijenac Fortress, located on a cliff, is first mentioned in a document of 1301, but its defensive importance is such that it must have been built much earlier (as early as the 11th century according to some scholars). The fortress owes its present appearance to the 15th and 16th centuries.

The Pile suburb was a planned development of the 15th century, around a clearly defined industrial zone dating back to the 13th century. It was devoted to tanning and leather-working, the casting of cannon, soap manufacture,etc - activities which, for reasons of hygiene and security, were placed outside the walls but within the protection of the fortress. In the early 15th century an important dyeing industry developed in the area, and this was followed by other industries, such as glass-making, bell-casting, and weaving.

Old City of Dubrovnik These industrial operations led to the construction of workers’ houses, and the settlement had its own Church of St George, dating back to the 14th century but rebuilt in its present form in 1590. The Pile suburb has retained its original character, although some changes resulted from the building in the late 19th century of a new road linking Pile with Gruz and passing outside the ramparts of the medieval town. The area known as Iza Grada (Behind the city) lies outside the northern part of the ramparts, and has remained an open space, for defensive reasons, throughout the town I s history. The road joining Pile and Gruz marks its northern boundary. On the eastern side of the old city lies Ploce, which has served as the centre for trade with the hinterland for centuries. The area proposed for the extension of the World Heritage Site lies to the south of the main road and includes the Lazarets and the Revelin Fortress.

The Kase moles were built around 1485 on the plans of paskoje Milicevic, the most famous Ragusan engineer of the Renaissance period, to protect the port against south-easterly gales while at the same time improving the facilities for controlling vessels approaching the town.

The building of the Lazarets began in 1627 and they were completed in 1648. Their siting at the eastern entrance to the city was practical: this is where traders and travellers would approach Dubrovnik from potentially plague-ridden parts of central Europe or the Orient. They have preserved their original appearance to a remarkable degree.

The Revelin Fortress, built to command the town moat on its northern side, dates from 1449, though its present appearance is that of the 16th century, when it was remodelled by the architect Antonio Ferramolino di Bergamo.

The island of Lokrum lies to the south-east of Dubrovnik, some 500 m from the coast. In 1023 it became a Benedictine abbey, the first of several in the Republic of Dubrovnik. The monastic complex (and especially the Church of the Virgin Mary, destroyed by the earthquake of 1667 and not rebuilt) was continually enlarged in succeeding centuries. Following the reform of the Benedictine Order in the later 15th century, the monastery passed to the Congregation of St Justina of Padua, which was responsible for the building of a new monastery in Gothic-Renaissance style to the south of the ruins of the Benedictine establishment.

During their occupation of the island in the early 19th century the French began work on the construction of the Fort Royal Fortress, which was completed by the Austrians in the 1830s. In 1859 Archduke Maximilian of Austria (later Emperor of Mexico) bought the island with the intention of building a villa in classical style on the ruins of the Benedictine abbey, but only a small part of this work was completed.

Short facts about Croatia Official name: Republic of Croatia Official language: Croatian Alphabet: Latin Currency: Kuna (100 lipa) Population (last census): 4.784.265 Number of islands: 1,185 (66 inhabited) Capital: Zagreb (nearly 1 million inhabitants) Total state area: 89,810 km2 (55,6822 sq.mi) Territory area (land): 56,610 km2 (35,336 sq.mi) Aquatorium area (internal sea line): 33,200 km2 (20,584 sq.mi) Marine economy region (territorial sea line): 23,870 km2 (14799 sq.mi) Total economy area: 113,680 km2 (70,481 sq.mi) Coastline length: 5,835 km (3,617 sq.mi) Coastline length of mainland: 1,777 km (1,101 sq.mi) Coastline length of islands: 4,058 km (2,515 sq.mi)

WEEK 3 Cinema Architecture: Dubrovnik Fieldwork, 29 Jan – 03 Feb 2012 Teamwork Team UK Dr Cristian Suau (CS) Sam Clark (SC) Juliet Odgers (JO) Catherine Pease (CP) Maria Kramer (MK) Peter Feldmann (PF) John Carter (JC) Marc Sustr (MS) Andrew Faulkner (AF) Croatia Iva, Nikolina and Morana

Themes: Urban History, Croatian Architecture, Building Systems This trip to Dubrovnik is a splendid opportunity to make short films about the city. Students, in groups (9), would need to think about sequencing, framing, story boarding and implementation. Everyone has filming ‘latent’ capacities on their mobile phones and cameras, so no special technology is required. This process will help them to view the city in a different way.

Sunday 29 January Arrival in Dubrovnik – Check in Hostels (afternoon) Monday 30 January 0830-0900 Breakfast 0900-1000 ‘Intro Fieldwork Brief’ at Student Hostel + make 11 groups 1015 Students and tutors meet at ‘Gate of Pila’, Western side of the Old Town 1015-1300 Visit Dubrovnik and the Walls in groups (11) 1300-1400 Lunch break 1400-1700 Teamwork on ‘Urban History’ Each group consists of 8 students per tutor 1900-2030 10-min digital presentation (9 groups) plus plenary 2100 Movie 1 at Youth Hostel (TBC) Note: Book 3 coaches (capacity of 28 persons each)!

Tuesday 30 January 0830-0900 Breakfast 0915-1000 ‘Introduction & Tips’ at Student Hostel 1015 All students meet at ‘Gate of Pila’, Western side of the Old Town 1015-1300 Visit Dubrovnik Sites: ‘Site Analysis’ and ‘Cinemas in Dubrovnik’ (9 groups) 1300-1400 Lunch break 1400-1700 Teamwork on ‘Croatian Architecture’ Each group consists of 8 students per tutor 1900-2030 10-min digital presentation (9 groups) plus plenary 2100 Movie 2 at Youth Hostel (TBC)

Wednesday 1 February 0830-0900 Breakfast 0915-1000 ‘Introduction & Tips’ at Student Hostal 1015 All students meet at ‘Gate of Pila’, Western side of the Old Town 1015-1300 Visit Dubrovnik Sites: ‘Plot Measurement’ (9 groups) 1300-1400 Lunch break 1400-1700 Teamwork on ‘Building Systems’ Each group consists of 8 students per tutor 1900-2030 10-min digital presentation (9 groups) plus plenary 2100 Movie 3 at Youth Hostel (TBC) Thursday 2 February 0600-0630 Breakfast 0630 Departure 2 coaches from at Youth Hostel - Vinka Sagrestana 3- to: - Split/Trogir (via coach) - (Tristeno), Ston, Orebic & Korcula (via coach or ferry) 1200-1300 Lunch break (optional) 1700 All coaches return to Dubrovnik 2100 Dinner TBC Sunday 29 January Leave Dubrovnik – Check out Hostels before noon (12.00) HOSTEL FOR STUDENTS Youth Hostel Dubrovnik Vinka Sagrestana 3 20000 Dubrovnik Tel. +385 20 423241 Fax. +385 20 412592 E-mail: dubrovnik@hfhs.hr WWW: http://www.hostelworld.com/hosteldetails.php/Youth-Hostel-Dubrovnik/Dubrovnik/20752

HOSTEL FOR TUTORS DORMITORIJ d.o.o.

Vlaho Bruer Manager Dormitorij d.o.o.

University of Zagreb Don Frana Bulica 4 20000 Dubrovnik Tel./Fax. +385 20 326 320 E-mail: dormitorij@caas.unizg.hr WWW: http://www.iuc.hr/dormitory.php CINEMAS IN DUBROVNIK Visia Dubrovnik 5D Theatrum http://www.visiadubrovnik.com/

Kino Jadran http://www.kinematografi.org/ Open-air cinema (closed in wintertime). The programme, of course, depends on the weather, but you can count on regular showings Croatian and international films. The setting is atmospheric, and quaint to the point of antiquated, from the projecting equipment to the 300 seats. Screenings take place in the early evening, allowing filmgoers to take advantage of the city-centre location after the show.

Kino Sloboda http://www.kinematografi.org/

Luza 66 20000 Dubrovnik +385 20 20 41 71 07 +385 20 20 42 57 03 CINEMA IN SPLIT Kino Klub Split http://www.kinoklubsplit.hr/

Savska bb 21 000 Split Hrvatska E-mail: info@kinoklubsplit.hr Tel.: +385 (0)21 542 425

KINOTEKA ZLATNA VRATA http://www.pouciliste-split.hr/kultura.html (cinema split) Pučko Otvoreno Učilište Split Dioklecijanova 7 21000 Split 021/ 361 335 or 021/ 361 225 pous@pouciliste-split.hr For more information on Croatia visit: Croatian National Tourist Board, www.croatia.hr Croatian Ministry of Tourism, www.mint.hr Ministry of Foreign Affairs, http://www.mvpei.hr/index.html/ Ministry of Culture, www.min-kulture.hr/ Ministry of Agriculture and Forestry, www.mps.hr/ Ministry of education and sports, www.mips.hr/ IMPORTANT INFORMATION

Cardiff University Security out-of hours: +44 29 2087 4444 Sue Bowden, WSA contact: + 44 2920 874438 Sam Clark mob.

07813155678 (emergencies only) Juliet Odgers mob.

07899086959 (emergencies only) Cristian Suau mob.

07912535082 (emergencies only)

towards airport

HOSTELS LOCATION

At the post offices you can receive all types of service, such as telephone links, telex, fax etc. In order to make a phone call from Croatia to any country in the world, an international prefix 00 is required, followed by the country code. Here are some important and helpful telephone/fax numbers and the E-mail addresses.

The telephone code for Croatia is +385 and for Dubrovnik and Dubrovnik Region dial (0)20.

Croatia Police 192 Fire Department 93 Ambulance 94 Traffic police tel: 443 666 District police tel: 443 333 Coast Guard tel: 443 555 Public Emergency Center 985 Roadside Assistance 1987

City Hall tel: 351 800 County Hall tel: 351 400 Dubrovnik - Neretva County Tourist Board tel: 413 301 Dubrovnik Tourist Board tel: 426 303, fax: 422 480, e-mail: tzgd@du.tel.hr, web: http://www.tzdubrovnik.hr Tourist Board Župa-Dubrovačka Croatian Airlines 060 300300 web: www.croatiaairlines.hr, e-mail: ctn.sales@ctn.tel.hr

Dubrovnik General information inquiry 18981 Dubrovnik Airport tel: 773 377, web: http://www.airport-dubrovnik.hr Jadrolinija - Boat &Ferries tel: 418 000, web: www.jadrolinija.hr Jadroagent - ferry to Italy tel: 419 000, E-mail: jadroagent-dubrovnik@du.tel.hr ACI Marina “ Miho Pracat “ tel: 455 020, fax: 455 022 Harbor Master tel: 418 988 Central Bus Station tel: 357 088 City Buses “ Libertas “ tel: 423 724

Background The total land area of Croatia amounts to 56.610 km.sq / 35.336 sq.mi., with a population of approximately 4.9 million. It features a total land border of 1.778 km (1.110 mi.) stretching from the historic city of Dubrovnik in the South to the ancient Roman city of Pula in the North, encompassing a 1.278 km (789 mi.) section of the Adriatic Sea. Spread like pearls along the coast, Croatia’s 1.185 islands provide a magical paradise to be experienced and explored. The capital of Croatia is Zagreb, a charming medieval city of exceptional beauty known for its spirit and architecture, with a population of approximately 1 million. The city with a tradition of almost one thousand years celebrated in 1994 its 900th birthday. Over the years, Zagreb has become the scientific, political and economic center of Croatia.

The uniqueness of Croatia lies in its diversity. Situated between the Alps and the Adriatic Sea, Croatia provides visitors with the opportunity to ski in the winter and swim during the summer months, all within driving distance. With its 1.185 islands, islets and reefs, it is the most diverse coast on the Mediterranean. There are seven national parks in Croatia, three being in the mountainous regions (Risnjak, Paklenica and Plitvička Jezera), and four in the coastal regions (Kornati, Brijuni, Krka and Mljet).

To mention a few, Croatia is home to the Old City of Dubrovnik, Diocletians Palace in Split, Euphrasies Basilica in Poreč, the lakes Plitvička Jezera and many others. Croatia boasts the largest number of developed settlements in southeast Europe, in addition, many of which date back to Roman and medieval times. Rarely can you find so many examples of cultural and historical significance from different periods in such a small region.

Contemporary artists working in Dubrovnik: Ana Opalic - photographer and video artist : anaopalic.com Antun Maracic - curator, photography and installation art: www.hdlu.hr/eng/2009/05/antun-maracic-inadvertent-and-similar-works Slaven Tolj - curator, performance artist: wikipedia.org/wiki/Slaven_Tolj Bozidar Jurjevic - performance artist : www.hdlu.hr/eng/2009/02/bozidar-jurjevic-wind-rose/ ; dubrovacki.hr/clanak/33341/bosonogi-performans-u-gradu-dubrovniku; www.facebook.com/media/set/ ?set=a.319505388068551.80353.100000272763984 Pasko Burđelez - multimedia artist : www.ugdubrovnik.hr/venecija2005/pasko.htm Art Galleries in Dubrovnik: Art Workshop Lazareti : www.arl.hr Art Gallery Otok, Lazareti, Dubrovnik : www.arl.hr/programi/galerija-otok Art Gallery Dulcic - Masle - Pulitika, Drziceva poljana bb, Dubrovnik www.ugdubrovnik.hr/dmp Art Gallery Talir, Cubranoviceva 7, Dubrovnik Art Gallery Artur, Lucarica 1, Dubrovnik Art Gallery Homa, Žudioska, Dubrovnik : www.facebook.com/pages/gallery-HOMA/87415143718 Art Gallery Muratti, Miha Pracata 6, Dubrovnik Art Gallery Sebastian, Svetog Dominika 5, Dubrovnik Art Gallery Bokar, Ulica od Puca 20, Dubrovnik : www.galerija-bokar.hr/Gallery.htm Do not miss: MUSEUM of MODERN ART Put Frana Fupila 23 every day exept monday 10-17 h

The Naval Power of Dubrovnik The history of Dubrovnik is directly connected with the history of its navy. The Dubrovnik Republic and its government managed to use its closeness to the Sea in the best possible way, ensuring growth and freedom during centuries. Without its naval power, Dubrovnik would probably have never become one of the most important cultural and merchant centers on the Mediterranean, especially from the 16th to 18th century.

The beginning of the Dubrovnik navy can be traced back to the 9th century and it reached its highlights between 1580 and 1600. In that time Dubrovnik merchant navy had more than 200 ships that sailed all the seas. Numerous documents testify about the merchant industry in Dubrovnik, since the laws of the Dubrovnik Republic required that every ship had to have a writer. That way, all information’s were archived, showing ownership contracts, names of the captains, information’s about the ports etc. The diplomacy skills of the Dubrovnik Republic are unique in the naval world history. Business was conducted under very favorable conditions with numerous countries along the Mediterranean, turning even enemies into trading partners.

The greatest rival in those times was Venice, as Dubrovnik stood in its way for the complete domination on the Mediterranean. From open conflicts to the recognition of the sovereignty of Venice over Dubrovnik that lasted for 150 years (13th - 14th century), Venice remained a threat for the prosperity and freedom of the Dubrovnik Republic. All efforts were directed towards using all available means to protect and defend the Republic from Venice.

Even during its complete financial breakdown due to the Great earthquake in 1667, ruined and devastated, the diplomacy skill of the Dubrovnik Republic managed to prevent Venice from conquering Dubrovnik. The Venetian fleet approached Dubrovnik under the excuse that they only wanted to help, but in reality just waiting for a chance to enter and conquer Dubrovnik.

Records say that the Dubrovnik citizen Nikolica Bunić managed to prevent the Venetian, sending their ships back with help of only diplomacy. The tale tells that, when the Venetian fleet arrived outside Dubrovnik at the 17th April 1667, a Dubrovnik ship crossed their way, stopping them. On that ship there was the representative of the Republic Niolica Bunić, the only survived senator after the big earthquake. Bunić stepped on deck of the Venetian commander’s vessel and gave him the following greeting:” In the name of the Rector and the Dubrovnik Republic Senate”, even if in that moment Dubrovnik did not have either a Rector or a Senate. Assured of an easy conquer, the Venetian commander Cornaro cordially accepted the representative of Dubrovnik. But his surprise was great when, while expecting words of surrender, he was meet by :” Welcome to the water of the Republic”. The astonished commander Cornaro could not do much but to continue in the same style : “ the Duke has send me to offer help and assistance against the Turkish army and other plunderers”.

Bunić thanked the commander with the remark:” the government of Dubrovnik has enough power to prevent any attempt of foreign intrusion and, regarding the help connected with the earthquake, the republic has already taken all necessary measures, but many thanks to the Duke of Venice for his concern...” Not less determined and skilled was Marojica Kaboga under the negotiations with the Turkish Pasha who also approached Dubrovnik to, as he sad :” conquer Dubrovnik before the Venetian”. The hard negotiations and suggestive persuasions, under whom this young man showed his great talent, took long time before the Turks finally withdrew their forces. With this the danger for Dubrovnik’s well-being was not over.

Around 1800 the Dubrovnik Republic had a highly organized network of consulates and consular offices in more than eighty cities and ports around the world. In 1880 Dubrovnik acquired its first steam ship and from that time a new era of Dubrovnik shipping begun.

Cafes in Town In Dubrovnik, as in the rest of Croatia, café culture is something that regularly astonishes visitors. Young or old, all gather for a daily gossip over a macchiato or espresso. This process seems to last forever, leaving tourists wondering if anyone does any work around here. The cafés are always busy, the coffee usually good, although it is a good advice to try to sit down at the most crowded cafés (good coffee is a magnet).

The standard espresso, macchiato and cappuccino are available everywhere, while a latte here is called bijela kava (white coffee). Macchiato is coffee with milk, and you can order it with hot or cold milk, some cafés deliver the milk on the side which is the best serving option.

Try cafes such as Cafe bar Buža a visit. It’s located just outside the city walls with tables only steps from the sea, overlooking island Lokrum. This used to be a “secret” spot for locals but the rumor has spread since then, be prepared having to wait for a free table during high season. Relaxed chill out atmosphere, accompanied by discrete candles on each table. This bar deserves a visit during daytime as well, bring your swim suite, have a relaxing swim while the ice in your cocktail slowly melts away.

Dubrovnik Nightlife After having walked the old city walls and narrow streets of Old Town Dubrovnik, developed a nice tan on one of the nearby beaches, maybe even taken in a museum or two, it’s time to hit the streets and check out the nightlife offer in Dubrovnik. You can start the evening with a stroll along Old Town’s famous Stradun or Placa street. Dubrovnik Old Town is a non traffic area. Relax in one of the sidewalk cafés engaging in one of Dubrovnik’s favorite pastime activities: watching and commenting on passing people. There are numerous bars, most of them only minutes walking from each other. If in doubt, just follow the crowd.

Roofs of Dubrovnik Walking on the ramparts of the walled city of Dubrovnik feels like being part of a Renaissance painting. It is so picture-perfect that even George Bernard Shaw’s over-quoted observation of Dubrovnik being “paradise on earth” seems like a British understatement.

From the viewpoint on the ramparts, the homogeneous architecture of Dubrovnik is distinct; every single building in the old city bears clay roof tiles, red and honey rooftops that glitter in contrast with the turquoise sea. Dubrovnik is a medieval walled city on the Dalmatian coast in Croatia. Perched on a peninsula jutting out into the Adriatic Sea, it was an independent powerful merchant republic for over 700 years. It maintained close ties to the Far East and Africa and for many years competed with Venice as the principal commercial center on the Adriatic.

Rising directly from the sea’s edge, massive limestone walls encircle the old city. Pierced by two gates, the wall dates from 1466, and remains virtually unchanged to the present day. It is the best-preserved medieval city wall in the world.

Building Codes through History But it is not just the walls that have survived intact for 500 years; the streets, houses, and churches are much the same as they were centuries ago. This conservation is largely due to a municipal bylaw from 1272 that dictated building standards to respect the original structures.

The regulation moderated the impact of changing architectural styles on Dubrovnik. In the reconstruction that followed the earthquake of 1667, there was no radical change in the scale and design of the new structures.

The Walls of Dubrovnik (Croatian: Dubrovačke gradske zidine) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Walls_of_Dubrovnik They are a series of defensive stone walls that have surrounded and protected the citizens of the afterward proclaimed maritime city-state of Dubrovnik (Ragusa), situated in southern Croatia, since the city’s founding prior to the 7th century as a Byzantium castrum on a rocky island named Laus (Ragusia or Lave). With numerous additions and modifications throughout their history, they have been considered to be amongst the great fortification systems of the Middle Ages, as they were never breached by a hostile army during this time period. In 1979, the old city of Dubrovnik, which includes a substantial portion of the old walls of Dubrovnik, joined the UNESCO list of World Heritage Sites.

The oldest systems of fortifications around the town were likely wooden palisades.Today’s intact city walls, constructed mainly during the 12th–17th centuries, mostly a double line, have long been a source of pride for Dubrovnik. The walls run an uninterrupted course of approximately 1,940 metres (6,360 ft) in length, encircling most of the old city, and reach a maximum height of about 25 metres (82 ft). The bulk of the existing walls and fortifications were constructed during the 14th and 15th centuries, but were continually extended and strengthened up until the 17th century.

This complex structure, amongst the largest and most complete in Europe, protected the freedom and safety of a “civilised” and “sophisticated” republic that flourished in peace and prosperity for five centuries. The walls were reinforced by three circular and 14 quadrangular towers, five bastions (bulwarks), two angular fortifications and the large St. John’s Fortress.

Land Walls were additionally reinforced by one larger bastion and nine smaller semicircular ones, like the casemate Fort Bokar, the oldest preserved fort of that kind in Europe. The moat that ran around the outside section of the city walls which were armed by more than 120 cannons, made superb city defense.

Monuments http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dubrovnik Rooftops in Dubrovnik’s Old City, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.Few of Dubrovnik’s Renaissance buildings survived the earthquake of 1667 but fortunately enough remain to give an idea of the city’s architectural heritage.

The finest Renaissance highlight is the Sponza Palace which dates from the 16th century and is currently used to house the National Archives. The Rectors Palace is a Gothic-Renaissance structure that displays finely carved capitals and an ornate staircase. It now houses a museum. Its façade is depicted on the reverse of the Croatian 50 kuna banknote, issued in 1993 and 2002.

The St. Saviour Church is another remnant of the Renaissance period, next to the much-visited Franciscan Monastery. The Franciscan monastery’s library possesses 30,000 volumes, 216 incunabula, 1,500 valuable handwritten documents. Exhibits include a 15th century silver-gilt cross and silver thurible, an 18th century crucifix from Jerusalem, a martyrology (1541) by Bemardin Gucetic and illuminated psalters.

Dubrovnik’s most beloved church is St Blaise’s church, built in the 18th century in honour of Dubrovnik’s patron saint. Dubrovnik’s baroque Cathedral was built in the 18th century and houses an impressive Treasury with relics of Saint Blaise. The city’s Dominican Monastery resembles a fortress on the outside but the interior contains an art museum and a Gothic-Romanesque church.

A special treasure of the Dominican monastery is its library with 216 incunabula, numerous illustrated manuscripts, a rich archive with precious manuscripts and documents and an extensive art collection.

Remark: No visit to Dubrovnik would be complete without a leisurely walk around the city walls. Built between the 13th and 16th centuries and still intact today, these powerful walls are the finest in the world and Dubrovnik’s main claim to fame.

The first set of walls to enclose the city were built in the 13th century. In the middle of the 14th century the 1.5m-thick walls were fortified with 15 square forts. The threat of attacks from the Turks in the 15th century prompted the city to strengthen the existing forts and add new ones so that the entire Old Town is now contained within a curtain of stone over 2km long and up to 25m high. The walls are thicker on the land side - up to 6m - but run 1.5m to 3m on the sea side. The round MinÄ?eta Tower ( M01D8) protects the northern edge of the city from land invasion, while the western end is protected from land and sea invasion by the detached Lovrjenac Fort ( M01A4). The Pile Gate is protected by the Bokar Tower ( M01D9) and the Revelin Fort ( M01DA) protects the eastern entrance.

The views over the town and sea are great, so be sure to make this walk the high point of your visit. The entrance to the walls is immediately to the left of Pile Gate when you enter the city.

5

1

Old Port

2

Stradun

3

Rector’s Palace

4

Sponza Palace

5

Franciscan Friary

6

Dominican Friary

7

Church of St Blaise

8

Cathedral

6

2

4

Stradun

7

Dominican Friary

Sponza Palace

Church of St Blaise

1 3

8

Rector’s Palace

Cathedral

Old Port

1

WALK 1 AROUND OD PUSTIJERNE You start from the square of Gunduliceva Poljana (statue of Ivan Gundulic).

Do not forget to see: - Jesuit Steps - Cathedral - Church of St Stephen - Resticeva No 1 (Renaissance palace) - Od Pustijerne street - Fort St Ivan (Maritime Museum) - Bandureva - Buniceva Poljana - Rector’s Palace - Ponta (Old Harbour)

2

WALK 2 AROUND PRIJEKO You start from the City Clocktower.

Do not forget to see: - City belltower - Headquarters of the City Guard - Sponza Palace - Zudioska alleyway - Buza Gate - Dropceva alleyway - Prijeko street - Chapel of the Transfiguration - Franciscan Friary - Stradun (Placa) Info box

3

WALK 3 AROUND ST MARY’S You start from the Onofrian Fountain.

Do not forget to see: - Convent of St Clare - Church of St Roch - Od Puca - Home of Marin Drzic - Church of All Saints - Rupe (old town granary) - Convent of St Mary - Square of Poljana Mrtvo - Jesuit Church - Chapel of St Peter - Dubrovnik Music School - Dubrovnik Mosque - Orthodox Church - Stradun (Placa): Uska street

4 WALK 4 PILE & BRSALJE You start just outside the Pile Gate.

Do not forget to see: - Pucic family summer residence - Chapel of St George - Fort Lovrijenac - Od Tabakarije - Park Gradac - Dance Church

BEST WEBSITES DUBROVNIK 3 DAYS http://www.tzdubrovnik.hr/eng/index.php CITY OF DUBROVNIK http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/95 CITY OF KOTOR http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/125/ CITY OF SPLIT http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/97/ CITY OF TROGIR http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/810/

ALL INFORMATION IS AVAILABLE IN THE S:\ DRIVE: S:\TEACHING\BSc 1st Year\WINTER_TERM 2\

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