Summer in Denmark | Aug 2-9

Summer in Denmark: 3 - 9 August 2012

SUMMER IN DENMARK

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Neighbourhood safari | Christianshavn

Summer in Denmark: 3 - 9 August 2012

Where everyone is welcome

By Elise Beacom

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F THERE’S one district in Copenhagen worthy of being called charming, it’s Christianshavn. This neighbourhood sits prettily on an artificial island built by King Christian IV. Positioned over Knippel Bridge, Christianshavn is located east of the inner city between Amager and central Copenhagen. Designed in the image of Amsterdam, the canal that cuts through the district was traditionally used as a passage for trade, and it is still adorned with beautiful wooden ships – their masts towering high above the water. And what was once a working-class neighbourhood, filled with watering holes for sailors and merchants, is now one of the city’s trendiest and most expensive areas to live. Although some residue of its nautical history remains, many of the booming blue-collar joints of days gone by have been replaced by stylish bars and eateries. A stroll along the canals nowadays will reveal Michelin-star restaurants and an eclectic collection of candlelit schnapps bars that smell of old spice. And the area’s inhabitants similarly reflect the diverse surroundings – from hippies living in makeshift houses in Christiania to highflyers who dine at the world’s finest restaurant Noma before following the cobblestones home to their comfortable waterfront apartments. There is a place for everyone in Christianshavn.

Hellerup

Nørrebro

Østerbro

Frederiksberg Christianshavn Vesterbro

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AFTER DARK

There is a lot to do in Christianshavn, whether it’s exploring the quaint cobblestone streets and canals or navigating through the haze of Christiania. A bunch of hippies moved into the ‘free town’ in the early 1970s, erecting lopsided self-made houses. Now, the area is famed for its communal atmosphere. Nearby on Sankt Annæ Gade is Vor Frelsers church – a 400-step climb up the outside of the spire offers a panoramic view of the city.

Equally impressive is the Opera House on the waterfront at Holmen – an old naval area. Designed by architect Henning Larsen and built in 2005 with guidance from leading acoustics experts, the Opera House offers an awesome sensory experience. Another architecturally striking structure is the Royal Library’s modern extension – the Black Diamond. When the sun hits the polished black-granite exterior, it reflects the shimmering water. Or view it all from the water itself: Christianhavn’s Boats for Hire rents out four-person dinghies.

OUR PICK!

Christiania is as vibrant during the day as it is at night. Its big live-music venue Loppen is the place to see some of Copenhagen’s up-and-coming and underground bands. This small, rustic venue attracts a broad range of musical acts and concertgoers. Summertime is also perfect for lazy days and balmy nights at the beach. To get that beach vibe without leaving the city, Halvandet is cool place to hang out, complete with a beach bar, beach-volleyball court and a beach-football field.

Off the sand, Café Wilder on Wildersgade is a popular place for anyone, from artists to corporate types. And if you want a break from Copenhagen, Eiffel Bar, also on Wildersgade, feels like a slice of Paris from the 1930s – sans the can-can girls. It’s somewhat ironic that this Parisian-style bar, decorated with countless mini replicas of the Eiffel Tower, is located in Christianshavn – a place often nicknamed ‘Little Amsterdam’.

OUR PICK!

Christiania. This place really sticks it to the establishment.

Eiffel Bar. For a trip to 1930s Paris – and cheap beer – try this cute little bar. Sacré bleu! (Wildersgade 58)

EAT If you’re suffering from a bout of the munchies, try Morgenstedet in the middle of Christiania. The café’s chefs are volunteers who serve up organic vegetarian cuisine in a cosy, casual setting. For a meatier meal, the burgers a t Luna’s Diner are good – their delicious breakfast burger is great for soothing a hangover. Bastionen + Løven on Christianshavns Voldgade is set in a beautiful spot, right on the shores of Christianshavn’s lakes. It serves classic Danish dishes for lunch and dinner, and the weekend brunch is also worth a try. Another spot with a view, Restaurant Kanalen serves up flavourful Danish food with a French twist. Sweet Treat, on Sankt Annæ Gade, is a buzzing little coffee joint with a chic interior, decent coffee and colourful macarons. And book a few months ahead for a memorable dining experience at Noma.

Named the world’s best restaurant for three years running, it dishes up unique ‘New Nordic’ fare – and includes anything from dirt-crusted carrots to live ants.

OUR PICK!

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Restaurant Kanalen. The picturesque location of this charming restaurant makes the meal taste even better (Wilders Plads 2)

SHOP Christianshavn isn’t quite as bustling as some of Copenhagen’s other shopping districts, but that’s not to say you can’t find some quaint shops scattered around the neighbourhood. Ceramic Studio and Shop on Wilders Plads sells and showcases the works of two talented local ceramicists. For a pleasant afternoon browse, try Pang Christianshavn on Sankt Annæ Gade. Appropriately named (‘pang’ is Danish for boldly coloured), this shop carries clothes and furniture in every shade and hue. Or wander through Christiania to find some interesting knick-knacks, jewellery, clothing and paraphernalia. While you’re in the area, Christiania Cykler has a great range of wheels, including bikes painted in hippie patterns and colours.

OUR PICK!

Pang Christianshavn. Celebrate summer with fashion, homewares and furniture in every colour (Sankt Annæ Gade 31)

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Summer in Denmark: 3 - 9 August 2012

Kulturklik.dk – Your click to museums & experiences.

Enjoy summer at Copenhagen area museums.

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ROkOkO- mania CONTEMPORARY ART AND DESIGN IN DIALOGUE WITH CRAFTS FROM THE 1700’S

Rococo-mania is an unconventional museum experience that explores rococo as a phenomenon of the past as well as the present.

THE MOST BEAUTIFUL MUSEUM In THE wORLD

FREDERIKSBORG

CASTLE OPEN ALL DAYS

3 EXHIBITS ALL SUMMER OPEN TILL 10PM TUESDAY—FRIDAY FREE ACTIVITIES FOR KIDS EVERY DAY 11AM—5PM 6/30—8/12 www.dnm.dk

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Christ various replicas

tuEsDay anD frIDay 13-17 wEDnEsDay 10-21 thursDay 10-17 saturDay anD sunDay 11-17 monDay closED KronprInsEssEGaDE 30 DK 1306 copEnhaGEn K t +45 33 73 49 49 www.DavIDmus.DK aDmIssIon frEE

foto: Jens Frederiksen · layout: annafalcono · 2012

24 JUNE - 21 OCTOBER 2012

Sunday to Friday from 12 to 16 (unless there are religious ceremonies) Domkirkens Museum · Københavns Domkirke · Vor Frue Kirke Nørregade 8 · 1165 København K www.domkirken.dk

VISIT DANISH PALACES AND GARDENS

PICK U P A FR EE GU I DE AT TOU R IST I N FOR M AT IONS, HOT ELS OR PA L ACES OR SEE I T ON SLK E.DK

SLKE.DK

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Summer in Denmark: 3 - 9 August 2012

Royal Copenhagen ...

My museum where I experience art

Photo: Anne Mie Dreves

Photo: Martin Ballund

Your click to Copenhagen area museums & experiences

Djuna Barnes, 34, DJ, musical consultant and author

“ Follow in the steps of the royals during a tour of the city’s museums, palaces and galleries

By Asløg Andersen

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ISIT THE ROYAL sites of Copenhagen on a tour that takes you through centuries of colourful stories. The city’s museums, palaces and galleries all conjure up images of the luxury and brutality of a long-lost royal era, while they provide insight into the lives of today’s royals.

Fanfare for the king At the Museum of National History at Frederiksborg Palace in Hillerød, you can visit the birthplace of King Christian IV, who years later transformed the palace into a Renaissance masterpiece unparalleled in Denmark at the time. In the outer courtyard, the trumpeting gods of the Neptune Fountain were meant to draw the world’s attention to Denmark and its ambitious king. The ornately decorated palace church is one of the museum’s centrepieces. This was the coronation site of nearly all of Denmark’s monarchs – in this grand ceremony, the king crowned himself as a symbol that he answered only to God. Coronations were celebrated in the richly adorned great hall.

Five centuries of kings and queens Prior to 1859, Frederiksborg Palace was a royal residence and the site of royal ceremonies. A devastating fire, however, changed all of that. But thanks to a donation by J. C. Jacobsen – of Carlsberg brewery fame – the palace would become the country’s leading museum of national history. In 1878, the palace opened as a museum, and today it offers a glimpse of five centuries of the nation’s history. The walls of the palace are decked with portraits of regal kings and their queens, and the room’s furnishings provide a look at the fashions of the period. The museum’s portrait collection includes modern royals – including Queen Margrethe and Crown Princess Mary.

After finishing your tour inside the castle, enjoy the angular Baroque garden that dates back to the 1720s or the more natural Romantic-era garden from the 19th century.

Tapestries and thrones in the house of parliament Looking to get close to the modern trappings of royal power?

Visit the house of parliament at Christiansborg Palace, a former royal residence that is still used by the queen on ceremonial occasions. The palace has an exciting history to share as well: the underground ruins reveal the 800-year-old history of Slotsholmen island. The current place, built in 1928, stands on the ruins of two previous castles.

In the ornate royal apartments, you’ll find the great hall with room for 400 dinner guests; the walls are hung with the tapestries given to the queen on her 50th birthday. Have a peek inside the queen’s library and the throne room, which contains the thrones rescued from the previous Christiansborg during the 1884 fire. On your tour, remember to look up every now and again to catch a glimpse of the palace’s chandeliers.

Princely palace If you’ve had enough of palaces, head to the National Museum, which is primarily housed in the palace where King Christian V lived before he ascended the throne. Dating from the 1740s, much of the building’s Rococo interior has been preserved.

Among the original rooms is the great hall and its lavishly decorated ceiling, once the site of royal celebrations. The royal family was always centrally seated under the red canopy.

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By going to a museum, we choose culture and history over ‘Paradise Hotel’ and McDonald’s. That’s when the cultivated side of us takes over. I like art that pushes the limit, and I remember that the National Gallery once invited artists Tal R and Jonathan Meese to show there.

They exemplified everything that you aren’t allowed to do in art. It was at once a kiss on the cheek and a kiss with the tongue. Penises and vaginas, animal bones, fingernails, hair, excrement. It was corporal, and at the same time you were repulsed by it, you were also drawn to it. I like art that is explicit, and an art form like graphics doesn’t appeal to me.

“The Workers’ Museum is just the thing for a dedicated Communist like myself. You can call red flags anachronistic if you want, but it all gets put into perspective when you visit a museum like this and see the gains unions have made. In the post-war time during the 1950s, the focus was on the family and its all-encompassing fear of the unknown. Dad worked. Mom stayed at home. Everything was as it should be. Anything else was subject to ridicule because it wasn’t traditional family life, and its narrow focus on material wealth and a middle-class existence – complete with two kids, a house and a little garden. What a horrible way to live.

There’s a tendency to romanticise the ’50s. I love ‘Mad Men’, but all the men are well-dressed and they go to cocktail bars. The Workers’ Museum is proof that there was another reality. You get a snapshot of the welfare state and a study in heterosexuality.

“We need places like that so we don’t wind up equating the ’50s with ‘Mad Men’ or rely on Wikipedia for our understanding of history. We live in a period where people write their own version of history. Museums give a tactile, complex and emotional experience, and it’s important that they continue to provide us with a good reconstruction of the past – and also that there’s someone who can serve good æbleskiver and chips.”

By Marie Louise Tüxen

Summer in Denmark: 3 - 9 August 2012

Your click to Copenhagen area museums & experiences

For Families

Events

VÆRKBOKSEN VÆRKboksen is the J. F. Willumsen Museum’s three-dimensional, interactive toolkit for families interested in exploring art. VÆRKboksen is stocked with activities and other art items to provide inspiration and entertainment for the whole family, and because it’s mounted on wheels, it’s easy to take around the museum and use to learn more about the works on display.

• WHO ARE THE DANES - AMBER, GOLD AND VIKINGS With a selection of particularly fine and unique artefacts, this guided tour takes you through the many different periods of Danish pre-history, from the Stone Age to the Vikings. Free – but please sign up at the Information Desk to attend. The guided tour takes place on Tue Aug 7 at 11:00.

J. F. Willumsen Musuem Jenriksvej 4

The National Museum

Frederiksund

Ny Vestergade 10

jfwillumsensmuseum.dk

Copenhagen K natmus.dk

SPIDERS They are beautiful, creative and alive – spiders. With its new exhibition, the Natural History Museum shows that these arachnids have much more to offer than fear and fright. So throw aside your prejudices and misconceptions to enjoy the beauty of the beast at an exhibition in which nature and art merged together.

Natural History Musuem – Zoological Museum Universitetsparken 15 Copenhagen Ø zoology.smn.ku.dk

Exhibitions Illumination – tracing Bosch

• GUIDED TOURS AT THE DANISH JEWISH MUSEUM Get the inside story behind Daniel Libeskind’s design for the museum housing 400 years of Jewish history in Denmark. The tour offers highlights from the museum’s permanent collection, ‘Space and Spaciousness’. Tours available Fri Aug 3, Sun Aug 5 and Wed Aug 8, at 14:00.

Danish Jewish Museum Proviantspassagen 6 Copenhagen K jewmus.dk

and Bruegel It may seem like a set-up for forensic detective work, but it’s actually an exhibition about four Dutch paintings from the 16th century. Over the course of two years, an international team of experts has examined the four paintings. The paintings look almost exactly identical – and yet they are different. How are they connected? If, indeed, there is any connection between them at all?

Jesus in any size and in just about every material imaginable. Or at least copies of them, anyway. This exhibition tells the story of how the statue came to be one of the world’s most copied pieces of art.

ists to exhibit new works in its Baroque Garden this summer. You can see playing sculptures and live sheep as the artists challenge history to present the art forms of the future.

Cathedral Museum – Church

Attemosevej 170

of Our Lady

Holte

Nørregade 8

holtegaard.org

National Gallery

Merete Barker, Viera Collaro and Margrete Sørensen.

Here, they created art in dialogue with the venue itself.

In the gigantic underground columned hall – which used to accommodate a reservoir that supplied water to the city of Copenhagen – the three artists have each installed one large work of art that relates to the specific space, and in itself creates space.

Sølvgade 48-50

Cisternerne – Museum of

Copenhagen K

Modern Glass Art

smk.dk

Søndermarken

Secret garden, contemporary

Frederiksberg

art in the Baroque Garden What happens when new Danish art is displayed in a historical garden? Gl Holtegaard invited nine Danish artists and groups of art-

Just before dawn Cisternerne (the cisterns) below Frederiksberg’s Søndermarken park is the site for a meeting between the artists

cisternerne.dk Thorvaldsen’s Jesus and all the copies You can find Thorvaldsen’s

Gl Holtegaard

Copenhagen K koebenhavnsdomkirke.dk

Europe meets the world Europe is constantly changing and in constant dialogue with the world around it. Focusing on nine themes in European history, this exhibition tells the story of how Europe has interacted with other cultures over the past 2,500 years – from ancient Greece to the modern-day challenges of globalisation.

The National Museum Ny Vestergade 7 Copenhagen K natmus.dk

The

Circus Museum p ly ho Ju ks n or y i W d a 30 us n 2. rc Su -1 Ci ery 11 Ev

ON LOAN

www cirkusmuseum.dk .

Hovedporten 6 ● Hvidovre ● Sun-Thursday 11-15

Masterpieces from Skagens Museum

4 May - 3 September 2012 SCULPTURE • ARCHITECTUR • PAINTINGS BERTEL THORVALDSENS PLADS 2, COPENHAGEN K OPEN TUESDAY-SUNDAY 10-17 WWW.THORVALDSENSMUSEUM.DK

www.hirschsprung.dk

Open daily 11 AM - 5 PM Closed Mondays

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Island Hopping | Møn

Summer in Denmark: 3 - 9 August 2012

Where all the artists go when they want to get away from it all Møn may have been colonised by artists, but historians, geologists, food lovers and just about anyone looking for a great getaway are more than welcome there, too

By Jason Heppenstall

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OT MUCH MORE than an hour’s drive to the south of Copenhagen, you can find one of Denmark’s most picturesque islands. Møn, pronounced a bit like ‘moon’, lies just off the southern coast of Zealand, yet it can seem like a million miles away ...

One of the larger islands of the Southern Denmark Archipelago, Møn is famed for its white chalk cliffs, called Møns Klint, which run for seven kilometres along the eastern edge of the island; it’s said they are eroding at a rate of up to 40 centimetres a year. The cliffs are crowned with beech forests, and numerous trails run through them and down to the beach.

You can reach the beach via some wooden steps; once there, you it’s fun to search among the rocks for fossils, which are surprisingly easy to find. Back at the top, after you’ve hauled yourself up the several hundred steps, treat yourself to a coffee and a bit of lunch at the visitors’ centre. Then take a look inside the GeoCenter, which tells the story of how Denmark was formed, geologically speaking, and features 3-D films made by National Geographic. It’s well worth a visit, especially if you have kids in tow. There’s also an excellent natural playground outside that will keep the little ones amused while you finish your coffee.

The island’s largest town is Stege (pronounced ‘stee’), a busy little market town with plenty of good cafés and restaurants situated right next to the water. This is the location of one of my favourite cafés in all of Denmark – the Bryghuset café and restaurant – which has not only a micro-brewery making some of the nicest ale you will ever taste, but also has walls lined with thousands of second-hand books in many languages; you can either buy or swap these treasures. The café is situated in the idyllic Luffes Gård cobbled courtyard, which also offers art galleries, an ice-cream parlour and a vintner. This is a great place to while away a couple of hours on a sunny day, although it is generally quite packed during the summer.

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If you are Danish and have been longing for a more bohemian existence, you might have heard the siren call of Møn.

How else can one explain the fact that almost everyone who lives there seems to be a painter, sculptor or writer? In recent years, the island has gained enough traction on the international scene to attract some big names to its annual literature festival, which the Japanese writer Haruki Murakami attended in 2010.

The landscape of Møn is quietly spectacular. It’s one that contains gently undulating fields, small forests and long pebbly beaches that fringe wide, open spaces. Nowhere are you far from the sea, and at times it can feel as if you are in a watery world of your own – a sort of parallel universe of thatched cottages and ancient burial mounds, where the only sounds come from the gentle breeze and the ever-present song of the skylark. It’s a world inhabited by resplendent pheasants that strut regally around the fields and lolloping hares that stand silhouetted against the skyline at dusk.

If you spend any amount of time on Møn, you can begin to feel the history of the island beneath your feet. People have inhabited this island for thousands of years, and the evidence from ancient times is everywhere you look in the form of burial mounds – there are 173 on this small island.

Some are just nondescript dots on the landscape, while others are larger and crowned by trees. One of the most famous of these is Kong Asgers Høj (King Asger’s Mound), which was constructed around 4,000 years ago and contains a 10-metre long tunnel that you can enter. If you plan on visiting, make sure to bring a torch because it is pitch-dark inside!

But if 4,000 years of history sounds like a bit too far back in time, Møn has plenty of more recent and no less interesting history to offer. A visit to Møn would not be complete without gazing up at some of the frescoes that cover the local church ceilings. These works of art are renowned u

Møn Møn is a medium-sized island lying off the southern coast of Zealand; it is accessible by car. Famed for its chalky white cliffs, called Møns Klint, the island is steeped in history going back some 4,000 years. Here, you can visit numerous passage graves and barrow mounds from the Neolithic era, and even delve into pre-history at the state-of-the-art GeoCenter. The island is dotted with quaint villages comprised of thatched cottages, and due to the influx of overseas visitors, there are a number of excellent restaurants and cafés catering to foreign tastes. The main town of Stege is a picturesque market town situated beside the deep blue sea, and it has a relaxed and family-friendly atmosphere. No trip to Møn would be complete without a visit to some of its churches, where you can see amazingly well-preserved ceiling frescoes dating from the Middle Ages.

Møn

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Island Hopping | Møn

Summer in Denmark: 3 - 9 August 2012

Stay

Eat

u throughout Denmark and date back some 700 years. One of the best churches to see these frescoes is Fanefjord Church at the western end of the island. The reason these frescoes look so fresh and vibrant is that they were covered over with whitewash for many centuries and only rediscovered in the 1930s, when they were restored. They mostly depict religious scenes, as well as interesting little vignettes from Møn village life in times past.

Another place well worth a visit on Møn is Liselund. This historic stately home/castle looks like something out of a fairy tale. It’s not far from Møns Klint and is open daily to visitors as well as people wishing to stay overnight. Within the beautiful grounds, you’ll find plenty of romantic buildings, including a Chinese tea room and a Norwegian log house – the whole place exudes the romance of a long-lost golden age. The main castle itself has been transformed into a hotel, which has a nice restaurant and café.

But apart from the main attractions, Møn is simply a lovely place to spend a few days – or even a single one if you’re pressed for time. It is small enough to drive from one end to the other in less than an hour, even if you stop at some of the many small art galleries, workshops and cafés along the way. It’s also a place to take long walks on the beach, discover cosy little villages (tip – Nyord, in the far north and accessed by way of a bridge, is probably one of the most charming ‘olde worlde’ villages aywhere in Denmark) and just relax. Møn’s residents are used to lots of visitors, so most things are written in English and German as well as Danish.

Go there and see for yourself!

Møn has several attractive seaside campsites, as well as one near the cliffs (campingmoensklint.dk). A highly recommended guesthouse is Tohøjgaard (‘Two Barrow Farm’), situated in a very peaceful location by the sea. Each room has its own individual style. Visit tohojgaard.com for more information.

Getting there Møn is easily accessible by car with two bridges linking the island to both Zealand and Falster. To get there by train, head to nearby Vordingborg and take local bus number 660R to Stege.

OUR PICK!

Because of the number of international visitors Møn gets, dining options are varied and impressive. Stege tends to have the best places – check out the Gourmet Gaarden, which serves high-end cuisine. Just as good is the nearby David’s, which serves modern Nordic cuisine in a convivial atmosphere.

If sheer luxury and romance is your thing, it is impossible to beat staying at the fairytale castle of Liselund. Rooms start at 800kr per night (liselundslot.dk).

OUR PICK!

Bryghuset, Stege. A micro-brewery, restaurant and bookshop rolled into one, this lovely hostelry is situated in a quiet cobbled square that is a sun trap in the summer.

Do

Møns Klint lies at the east of the island, and you can drop in at the GeoCenter while you are there (moensklint.dk). You should also check out the ceiling frescoes of the various churches dotted around the island, and also climb a burial mound or two.

OUR PICK!

Pay a visit to the picturesque little village Nyord in the far north of the island. Here, you can stroll around with an ice cream while admiring the thatched houses, or just stop for lunch.

Guesthouse overlooking the Baltic Sea Get away for a few days and enjoy a relaxing weekend at our lovely B&B. Book your room as well as breakfast and a two course dinner. We look forward to seeing you!

TOHØJGAARD Rytsebækvej 17, Hjelm 4780 Stege tlf. 2639 5067 www.tohoejgaard.com 7

Regional | Zealand

Summer in Denmark: 3 - 9 August 2012

Beyond Copenhagen Think Zealand doesn’t have much to offer besides Denmark’s largest city? If so, you’d be missing out

By Jennifer Weitz-Clancy Poulsen

P

ERHAPS THE BEST place to start a journey to Zealand would be Roskilde, a former national capital before power shifted to Copenhagen and important for understanding Denmark’s development.

Situated on the fjord of the same name, Roskilde offers visitors cultural and historic venues, as well as delightful views and opportunities to sail on ships reminiscent of those used by the Vikings 800 years ago. Known to have been settled at least 1,000 years ago, Roskilde was named the capital of Denmark in about the year 960 by King Harald Blue Tooth. Upon his death in 985-986, the king was buried in a wooden church he had built earlier in Roskilde – and not inside or under the now infamous twin-spired Domkirke, or cathedral – a practice that continues for the royal family today. The current brick cathedral, built between 1060 and 1080, was the first Gothic building in Denmark. Still offering regular religious services, Roskilde Cathedral is recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Due west of Roskilde lies Isefjorden, a larger and deeper fjord

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that was created during Denmark’s last ice age. In its centre is the small, inhabited island of Orø, which serves the region as a vacation and tourist destination; it’s connected to the rest of Zealand by ferry. With dramatic and beautiful views, these fjords are home to shipping and shopping villages that have historically served to collect tariffs from incoming ships and transport agricultural goods throughout northern Europe.

Further south and along the eastern coast of Zealand are lower-lying areas that have also played a significant role in agriculture and trade over the centuries. Nykøbing, on the island of Falster, is known to have existed as far back as the 13th century, built around a castle that housed the ruling families of both Danish and German royalty. Well-situated for protection against attacks, it became a trading center in the medieval era and thrived until hard times hit Denmark in the 1700s; the castle was then sold and later demolished, although parts of it were preserved and used in other structures. With the construction of a bridge in 1930 connecting Falster with Zealand – as well as the 295-metre Frederik IX Bridge over the Guldborgsund, connecting Falster to the island of Lolland – the area became a favorite spot for city-dwellers to build modest summerhouses.

Both islands have attracted the attention of naturalists, leading large areas of land and sea to be identified as particularly attractive for the wildlife found here. Among them are Nakskov Fjord on western Lolland, an area rich with gardens, mills and maritime history; Gedser Odde, the southernmost point in Denmark; and an area known as Smålandsfarvandet on the northern bay side of Lolland. It’s great for bird watching and gaining access to the smaller islands of Askø, Lillø, Fejø, Femø, Rågø, Skalø og Vejrø.

Zealand Unlike well-tended Funen and the wide-open spaces of Jutland, Zealand is a more chaotic, haphazard collection of towns and villages, farms and factories that offers visitors a wide range of experiences – from coastal summerhouse developments and island artists’ colonies to the busy market towns of Roskilde and Køge as well as quiet, natural getaways. Most parts of the region can be reached from Copenhagen in about an hour by car, but because it is one of the most densely populated parts of the country, the area is also easily accessed by local and regional trains, as well as by bus. Distances between attractions tend to be reasonable, and there are numerous marked and unmarked cycle routes in the region, making traveling by bike a reason for visiting in and of itself.

Zealand

NEXT WEEK: SCANIA

Regional | Zealand

Summer in Denmark: 3 - 9 August 2012

Do

With children: make your way to Lolland and Falster and visit the Knuthenbord Safari Park.

Without children: enjoy a tranquil day filled with history and contemplation at Roskilde Cathedral.

OUR PICK!

Enjoy the spaces that urban planners imagined would be good for city-crowded souls. By car, visit Jægerspris Palace, west and slightly north of Copenhagen. First built in the 1300s, it’s a historic property, currently a hunting lodge with access to gardens and woods. Spend another day in Roskilde proper, where you can explore the cathedral inside and out. After experiencing the ambiance of Danish history, royalty and religion, make your way to the Viking Ship Museum. There, you can learn why these ships were found at the bottom of the fjord, how they were built and maybe set sail on an authentic ship. Weekenders will enjoy travelling to Lolland and Falster, where you can commune with nature or enjoy small villages, the seaside and sandy beaches. While you’re there, be sure to visit the Middelaldercentret in Nykøbing on Falster and the popular Knuthenborg Safari Park. Children – if not their parents – will also love the water park at Lalandia.

Stay

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A great way to spend time in the Lolland and Falster area is by staying at one of the many local campgrounds. Offering spaces for tents as well as caravans, it’s often also possible to rent wooden and tent-like micro-cabins.

This is an experience worth having, if only to get a sense of how many Danes tend to spend their long summer holidays. Nakskov Fjord Camping offers its own sandy beach, access to local nature preservations, an in-ground pool and clean, fully equipped efficiency huts at reasonable prices. Similarly, Løkken Klint offers three levels of huts for rent as well as tent camping, and it organises activities for children and families alike. For those who want a hotel experience, Oreby Mølle, located in Sakskøbing on Lolland, offers a manor-house experience with comfortable, spacious, romantic accommodations and locally knowledgeable staff. Summerhouses near the beach or in natural settings are also available on the two major islands.

For fine, romantic dining on your way down or back from the Lolland and Falster area, make a date at Limone Restaurant Italiano in Køge, where the atmosphere will relax you and the food and wine will be a special event. In Nykøbing, enjoy classy meat-andpotato entrées at Brasseri & Café Hvid. In Roskilde, several restaurants stand out. We like Gourmethuset Store Børs for delicious meals with all the fixings, as well as a brasserie menu and homebrewed specialty beer. For more creative fare in Roskilde, try Raadhuskælderen, located just a few steps away from the cathedral; it serves the season’s best ingredients in creative combinations at reasonable prices. The Italian restaurant GustoGiusto also warrants a mention: carefully selected ingredients, a true Italian menu and a pleasant dining atmosphere make this restaurant – and Roskilde itself – a great place to end the day. We recommend checking websites before heading out in order to find out what’s new and whether reservations are required.

OUR PICK!

It has to be renting a micro-cabin at any of the quality camping facilities – to get a oncein-a-lifetime, closer-to-nature, truly Danish holiday experience.

OUR PICK!

Get the real deal: fine Italian food at Gusto Giusto after a pleasant day spent in Roskilde.

9

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Say “Hej” to tHe DaniSH Language A djusting to life in Copenhagen can be

ish from day one by Københavns Sprogcenter’s

To achieve this understanding, the school offers

hard for many reasons, but learning

renowned faculty, which includes more than 10

both fulltime day courses and night classes that

Danish is at the top of the list. Native

authors of Danish language textbooks. Teachers

give students flexibility to work around their own

English speakers lament that nothing is spoken

understand exactly what their students are going

schedules. Those who want an intensive learn-

like it is read, random letters are sometimes left

through and can help them navigate textbooks

ing experience can find it here, but so can those

silent and pronouncing the vowels makes you

that, in many cases, they wrote themselves.

with other jobs or schoolwork who can only fit

sound like you’ve got a sore throat. Despite all

in a couple of nights a week. Traditional lectures

that, it is a language that can be picked up quickly

“They’re not only [good teachers], but

and in-class activities are supplemented with

and painlessly; all it takes is the right environ-

they’re professionals in their field,”

practice in the language lab, where students can

ment, methods and staff to lead the way.

department manager Julie Henriques

pronounce words into a microphone and receive

explains. “This also means that the teachers

individual critiques from staff. Priority is placed

Københavns Sprogcenter gives students these

who haven’t written textbooks are working

on active learning (speaking and writing) rather

tools. Nestled in the old meatpacking district of

with the authors, so they understand and are

Vesterbro, the school spans two large buildings

constantly learning as well.”

and boasts a newly renovated computer lab,

than passive learning (reading and listening).

Above all else, Københavns Sprogcenter has cre-

language lab, library and cafeteria. A surprise

Københavns Sprogcenter aims to help newcom-

ated an environment where people from around

perhaps to those who imagine language schools

ers pass the Danish language test required by

the world can work to overcome a similar chal-

consisting of nothing more than a few rundown

immigration laws, but it also understands that

lenge. With 1,400 students currently enrolled

classrooms, this language centre has taken extra

there’s more to a language than that.

from over 90 countries, the language centre pro-

steps to modernise its space and add a level of comfort to the often uncomfortable experience

“We look at it in a broader sense – what do you

of learning a new language.

need to do with the language? Why do you need

vides expats with a group of people who can un-

Danish will always be a tough language to grasp,

derstand their situation.

but the resources at Københavns Sprogcenter can make this process both quicker and easier. With

to make it your own?” Henriques elaborates. “It’s

“It’s a whole new network,” Henriques says.

a comfortable environment and informed facul-

Newcomers are interviewed by one of the school’s

not just about passing the test; it’s about how to

“Really strong friendships are made in

ty, you can finally join the real Copenhagen and

five counsellors and placed into courses less than

live - how to buy a pack of cigarettes, how to ask

classes, crossing religious, political, social or

discover what’s so special about that so-called

a month later. They are then immersed in Dan-

someone out on a date - that’s not on the test.”

whatever borders they live with normally.”

“throat disease.”