DAILY FASHION EXPERT UFFE BUCHARD: “Danish fashion has become more intelligent”
BY MALENE BIRGER A new confidence
TAGGED BY BEX Hyped mom/daughter collaboration
HINTS AND TIPS ON WHERE TO EAT, DRINK, AND BE SEEN CECILIE BAHNSEN Purely innocent, -provocatively sexy
THU EDITION
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THURSDAY EDITION
SPLASHES IN THE TALENT POOL In recent years, Danish design talents have been trickling out in a steady stream. From Mark Tan and Cecilie Bahnsen emerging in the last few years to this season’s newcomers Heliot Emil, Corali and Mai Svanhvit, the younger generation has been injecting our fashion veins with a welcome dose of stimulation, garnering international attention along the way. Graduate shows, fashion prizes, and the Talent Scene launched at this Copenhagen Fashion Week are among the platforms that allow these burgeoning designers to showcase their visions and reach audiences and partners who can catapult them even further. It is incumbent on the established industry to continue assisting them on their journeys, not merely because it gives an image of patronage, but through the long-term self-interest of developing the Danish fashion industry. While Danish fashion is known for being casual and unpretentious, these new designers prove that it is not
CONTRIBUTORS
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Line Hindsgaul EXECUTIVE PUBLISHER Camilla Frank Copenhagen Fashion Week ART DIRECTOR Wendy Plovmand SUB EDITOR Magnus Jorem
CFW DAILY
necessarily something you can ride your bike in. From Mark Tan’s couture dresses to Heliot Emil’s in-your-face streetwear, the new school is punching in different directions that go beyond “relaxed chic”. And while it may be the more commercial brands that have made fashion among Denmark’s largest exports, the young talents and their unspoiled creativity are what gives us international press and keeps the established players on their toes. Line Hindsgaul Editor-in-chief
WRITERS Katrine Lund-Nielsen Sille Ugelvig Rikke Agnete Dam Marlene Toldbod Jakobsen Sofie Ringtved Lotte Freddie Jeppe Ugelvig Marie Jedig Courtney Forrest
PHOTOGRAPHERS Elisabeth Eibye Helena Lundquist Sahel Hamdam
DISTRIBUTION Natasha Roel PRINT Jysk Fynske Medier
STREET STYLE PHOTOGRAPHER Adam Katz Sinding SALES Linda Ava Laursen
COVER PHOTOGRAPHER Elisabeth Eibye
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AUGUST 10
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CFW DAILY INSIGHTS & RECOMMENDATIONS DAILY Desiger DITTE REFFSTRUP, CREATIVE DIRECTOR OF GANNI SHOW: THURSDAY, 10TH OF AUGUST, 17:00-18:00 How do you prepare for fashion week — do you have a ritual? The days before the show we’re always busy with the last preparations in terms of fittings, last-minute changes in the scenography, arranging the music, and participating in interviews. Usually we run around like crazy people, so I don’t really have a ritual — unless having an extreme case of butterflies in my stomach counts! Ganni always seems to make noise during CFW. How do you plan to make a statement this season? We try not to worry too much about that, and just have fun with it and go with our gut feeling. For us it’s all about the vibe and atmosphere, and presenting the new collection in the best possible way, while always staying true to who we are. What are the three important details to notice about the new collection? I don’t want to give away too much too soon, however the collection is named “Global Citizen”, and I think it’s important to notice our international collaborations, the mix of materials and fabrics, and the bright colours. What is your own personal favourite from the collection? It’s difficult to choose just one, but our new seersucker and pinstriped wrap dress is definitely a favourite of mine.
DAILY DETOUR
– AN INSIDER’S GUIDE TO COPENHAGEN
We’ve asked Copenhagen insiders about their hidden gems and favourite places to explore while staying in the Danish capital. Today, Creative Director and Designer at OLE LYNGGAARD COPENHAGEN Charlotte Lynggaard takes you through three of her favourites.
1. THE KING’S GARDEN AND ROSENBORG CASTLE Scandinavian nature is a muse of mine, and having it around me as I grew up had a significant impact on my designs. That is why I suggest you explore the incredible gardens and parks Copenhagen is famous for. The King’s Garden is a beautiful park in the centre of the city, surrounded by old Copenhagen buildings. It’s a nice place for a picnic or an after-shoppingbreak. The Rosenborg Castle is definitely worth a visit too – it’s steeped in history, and you may even get to see the Royal Life Guards march across the grounds in perfect unison. The King’s Garden, Øster Voldgade 4A, Central Copenhagen 2. LOUISIANA MUSEUM OF MODERN ART One of my favourite places to go is the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art, which is around a 40-minute drive from Copenhagen. Whether you are alone or with family and friends, it is a fantastic place where you can spend a whole day enjoying the inspiring exhibitions, the breathtaking nature and surroundings, have a snack at the café, and shop in the fantastic bookstore. Louisiana Museum of Modern Art, Gl Strandvej 13, Humlebæk (short train ride from Copenhagen) 3. BIKE TAXI IN THE CITY One of the best ways to explore the city is by bike taxi with friends or family or on your own. You can always find them at Tivoli or in the city centre. And remember to make a stop at the OLE LYNGGAARD COPENHAGEN flagship store — it is a place to be inspired, find your own favourite piece of jewellery, or sit in the sofa and just enjoy. The interior of the shop is my interpretation of Nordic simplicity with a Japanese twist and a few vintage elements such as the blue velvet fabric that covers the sofas. They were originally curtains from my grandmother’s house. OLE LYNGGAARD COPENHAGEN flagship store, Ny Østergade 4, Central Copenhagen
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DAILY PIT STOP CREATIVE SIMPLICITY AT COPENHAGEN HOTSPOT
Chef Frederik Bille Brahe, founder of the popular café Atelier September on Gothersgade, has done it again: Created a not-to-be-missed restaurant and bar in the old cantina of art space Kunsthal Charlottenborg, where a simple menu of natural products and a delicious wine selection meets surroundings that scream to be immortalized in social media. Creative simplicity is what Frederik does best, and it seems like the fashion crowd can’t help themselves but follow every time he opens up a new spot in town — this is certainly the place to see and be seen. Apollo Bar, Nyhavn 2, 1052 Kbh. K
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DID YOU MISS WISHLIST THE PARTY? GANNI DUFORT SILK TOP Annabel Rosendal, blogger and PR-agent
Charlotte Sandgren, stylist and CFW party reporter, sure didn’t. Go to copenhagenfashionweek.com for a look at what’s been going down at the hottest fashion week parties. Play video feature on copenhagenfashionweek.com 4
Leopard is my favorite print, and this little silk top from GANNI paired with black cropped pants is perfect for a night out in CPH.
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AUGUST 10
THURSDAY EDITION
TRADE FAIRS FOUNDER OF NUÉ GROUP AND CREATIVE DIRECTOR OF LOVECHILD 1979 AND NUÉ NOTES, ANNE-DORTHE LARSEN PRESENT AT: REVOLVER AND CIFF What trade fair will you be attending? Revolver with Nué Notes, and CIFF with both Nué Notes and Lovechild 1979 How do you prepare for a day at the trade fairs? I plan the look of the stand and set the right mood for the collection.
NEWCOMERS AND RETURNEES SHOW: THURSDAY, 10TH OF AUGUST, 15:00
How does a day at the trade fairs look like to you? Since I don’t sell the collection myself, I mostly spend time, at the fairs as a buyer, looking for new brands, and meeting people I know from the business. And I love the positive energy. But I still have butterflies in my stomach to see if the stores we have approached will show up, and whether they like my own brands enough to buy.
INTERVIEW WITH CHARLOTTE ESKILDSEN, FOUNDER AND CREATIVE DIRECTOR OF DESIGNERS REMIX AND LITTLE REMIX How is it to be back on the Copenhagen Fashion Week show schedule? This year we are proud to celebrate our 15th anniversary. It is an obvious opportunity for Designers Remix to take part in CFW again as it’s here the brand was founded. We have noticed a big development in the fashion week, which has given us the desire to show our new line. Why did Designers Remix take a break from CFW? We have experienced a massive interest from abroad over the past two years, and we have been spending all our time and energy to meet that interest, which has been very successful. Our US development in particular has accelerated. How does CFW differ from other fashion weeks in Europe? CFW has a special transparency that appeals to consumers. The Danish fashion industry and fashion week offer a lot of talent that you cannot find anywhere else in the world. It’s a form of talent that both the fashion industry and our consumers can understand. At the same time, Copenhagen Fashion Week is far more laid back, and I think that the guests who visit Copenhagen enjoy the vibe the city has to offer. What expectations do you have for CFW and your own show? We have big plans for CFW this time. Not only do we present our SS18 collection at a unique location, we also launch our new sustainable initiative “Preloved Remix”. It is a circular project that seeks to produce garments with a minimal use of resources. The project is based on our consumers’ preloved Designers Remix clothes, which they in the future can deliver to our flagship stores. The sustainable mind-set is deeply founded in our DNA, so in reality, we are going back to our roots. The project will in the future be an integral part of our business, so we hope our audience will welcome and support it.
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How does the trade fair impact the business of Lovechild 1979 and Nué Notes? Being represented at both CIFF and Revolver has a huge impact on our business. The competition is very tough among brands in our segment, and it
is not always easy to get an appointment with the exact store you target, but being at the fairs allows the buyers to still have a view of the collection, without feeling obligated. That has helped us close some very nice stores. What role do the trade fairs have? The fairs are really good at getting the international buyers to Copenhagen. Since we are a small company, we do not really have the budget to be at fairs in Paris or London. But now we still get to show our brand outside Scandinavia. What do you look most forward to experiencing this season at the trade fairs? This season, I look forward to seeing the brand mix at both fairs. The vision of Copenhagen Fashion Week is to make it a Scandinavian Fashion Week, and I hope this also will impact the fairs so that there will be a lot of brands from Sweden and Norway. And hopefully a lot of up-and-coming brands.
DAILYGreen
Clean conscience at SKT. PETRI Once a popular department store, now an environmentally friendly luxury hotel. Skt. Petri has been home-awayfrom-home for many CFW visitors through seasons, and no wonder: Placed centrally in the most vibrant part of the city, close to cafés, shops, and most of CFW show venues, the hotel is known for its high quality of service and design décor. And with a commitment plan to improve its environmental results, reducing its eco-footprint, the hotel is not only convenient and luxurious but also a place to enjoy with a clean conscience. Psst… Remember to ask for the Skt. Petri guidance on how to stay green while living in the city! Hotel Skt. Petri, Krystalgade 22, Central Copenhagen
DAILY DUO:
MOTHER & DAUGHTER Designer and creative director of Julie Fagerholt Heartmade, Julie Fagerholt, and co-designer at Heartmade — Tagged by Bex, Bex Fagerholt Grønlykke. CFW Daily: When did Bex join the Julie Fagerholt Heartmade business? Julie and Bex: It started in 2016 when we lived in London together. We suddenly had a different every day that created more space for us to be together, because Julie didn’t have to be at the office from 9 to 5. Julie then got the idea that it could be exciting to work with Bex and create a collection together. The result was Heartmade – Tagged by Bex. Q: Working together on a collection, how is the roles between you? Julie and Bex: We have different roles; Bex has the creative role where she begins by finding inspiration and developing the styles. It is important for Julie to take a step back and let Bex do her creative thinking on her own. Julie then take over with her design eyes and experiences on finding the right qualities, silhouettes and general production. Our relationship is and has always been very close, and experiencing the same things with two different sets of eyes makes the codesign relationship and process very interesting and inspiring.
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Q @Julie: What does Bex bring to Julie Fagerholt Heartmade? Julie: Bex brings some new energy to the brand and a new way of styling: The Heartmade - Tagged by Bex collection can be styled much younger but even better be mixed together with the Heartmade mainline. Q @Bex: Julie Fagerholt Heartmade has been your mom’s life work so far, how do you match your personal aesthetics with the brand DNA? Bex: I have grown up with my mom’s design, and it has never been difficult to match it to my own aesthetic. I created the collection based on my own wardrobe and what I would like it to contain. As my mom and I are working closely together on fabrics and prints, we get inspired by each other, which means the final look of both collections always ends up by matching very well together. Q: Will we be seeing more Julie Fagerholt Heartmade Tagged by Bex in the future? Julie and Bex: We are showing our second collection together during this Copenhagen Fashion Week, and you can find in stores from February 2018.
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Spring / Summer 2018. 9 –11 August 2017
500+ Bell brands o a Ce nter n CIFF 1 Cop enha st & 2n d flo gen or
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MEET YOUR DAILY FASHION PERSONA:
Creative Director Uffe Buchard
“DANISH FASHION HAS A NEW AUDIENCE“ WORDS: RIKKE AGNETE DAM PHOTO: CHRISTIAN FRIIS Uffe Buchard is the grand man of Danish fashion. The Creative Director of Darling Creative Studio and co-founder of DANSK magazine, which celebrates its 15-year anniversary this year, has maintained the same mission for 25 years: Communicating the best features of Danish fashion. Features that according to 50-year-old Buchard are now blooming among the new designers reaching out to international audiences. In his own wardrobe, a certain Danish designer is missing, but buying his pieces is just a question of time.
democratic fashion towards a more innovative and avant-garde look — especially among the new generation of designers. This means that Danish fashion has a new audience. In a way, this group is more narrow, but on the other hand much more international and therefore broader. An example is Cecilie Bahnsen, which is sold at Dover Street Market, another would be the established brand Ivan Grundahl since Roy Krejberg took over as designer.
CFW DAILY: How would you describe your role on the Danish fashion scene?
Q: What is most positive about Danish fashion right now? A: I like that Danish fashion has become more intelligent. Even though it is getting more international, you can still see the Danish aesthetics. A certain “dry” minimalism that comes with a touch of humour at brands like Freya Dalsjø and Anne Sofie Madsen. At last, Danish fashion is approaching the same high levels that our design and architecture have been at for decades.
UFFE BUCHARD: It is difficult to explain one’s own role, but let me try: During the years that I have been part of the scene, I have always tried to set a high standard for Danish fashion in my work as Creative Director at campaigns and shows. I also see myself communicator of Danish fashion. Both nationally in terms of being on TV-shows like Go’ Morgen Danmark, and internationally, particularly in DANSK magazine, where we always try to work with Danish fashion side by side with international brands. Q: What has been the most remarkable change on the Danish fashion scene since you entered it? A: The development from a down-to-earth and
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covered in a sensational way — if covered at all. It seems to be more fun to talk about the models’ weight on TV during every fashion week instead of the creative, growing business. Danish fashion as a group has been quite bad at promoting itself as a serious business compared to the way that the French, Italian, and American fashion industries have. Q: Which Danish designers do you turn to when you go shopping? A: I am very fond of Tonsure, Han Kjøbenhavn, and Asger Juel Larsen. There is a certain “I have taken a stand” in wearing these brands due to their well thought-out details. I also like the fact that they are made to be worn for years, since sustainability has become a high priority in my shopping. Martin Asbjørn is also one I am watching. I haven’t got any styles yet, but that is clearly a mistake I should correct immediately. Q: What was your first personal experience with Danish fashion? A: The first brand I personally fell in love with was Annhagen, which launched in 2005, but closed down in 2009. It had huge ambitions and its Ann Demeulemeester/Rick Owens-vibe spoke directly to me.
Q: What is the worst about Danish fashion right now? A: I find it very difficult to get my head around how Danish fashion can be so bad at attracting capital, when it has such potential for growth. It might have something to do with the way that fashion is presented in Danish media. Apart from a few daily newspapers, fashion is mostly
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Q: When you look into your wardrobe, which piece of Danish design is your favourite? A: My Annhagen styles. You might need an advanced degree to figure out how to put some of the styles on, but I still wear them. Q: Looking five years into the crystal ball, what is your vision for Danish fashion? A: Higher ambitions. I wish that Danish fashion as a group would work closer together to attract the financial support that an event like Copenhagen Fashion Week deserves. And that certain Danish brands would stop trying to commit suicide by saving money. Either they are not showing at Copenhagen Fashion Week at all or in such a modest way that it becomes uninteresting, while the rest of the fashion world is creating bigger experiences than ever. Another great wish is to be a place that others look to for inspiration when it comes to stuff where we are actually far ahead — despite our small size as a nation. For example, I experience a new attitude towards beauty when Danish brands do not ask for a 1.80-meter-tall size-36 model any more, but still provide something interesting. Play video feature on copenhagenfashionweek.com
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FOTO : MICH A EL FA LGR EN
STYLING: UFFE BUCHARD
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EVERYTHING NICE VERENA SCHEPPERHEYN Time: 10:00 Place: Lokomotivværkstedet Words: Lotte Freddie
The Berlin-based German designer Verena Schepperheyn’s contemporary men’s fashion collections have previously been shown in London, Amsterdam, Ljubljana, and Paris. Her first show in Copenhagen — in contrast with the brand’s previous seasons of dark, graphic looks — is ironic, playful, and lively. SS18 takes inspiration from Dutch artist Navid Nucer and Finnish Jaakko Eino’s song ‘Everything Nice’ – positive words that are printed in white or black on T-shirts and shorts. Light, billowing coats floated over shorts or trousers with contrasting galloons in orange or red. Bright red shone in separates and looked terrific under long, wine-coloured coats; lots of straps swung from pockets and transparent grey T-shirts had one black and one red sleeve. Verena Schepperheyn’s penchant for experimenting with texture and colour as well as fusing street wear and classical tailoring appeared as a positive look for the modern man.
DANCING DRESSES
ELAINE HERSBY Time: 11:00 Place: Hotel d’Angleterre Words: Lotte Freddie
Elaine Hersby is fond of contrasts. Her first show of a bathing-suit-inspired collection of 19 pieces was held last summer at the old Public Baths in old Nørrebro. This time she chose posh Hotel D’Angleterre to present her SS 18 collection, a demonstration of her wish to climb further on the fashion scale. As with her first collection, Hersby’s focus this summer is on the body, specifically, the ballet dancer’s body. The designer has followed the principal dancer at The Royal Danish Ballet Company, Ida Pretorius, and made a translation of functional active workwear and elaborate stage costumes into a ballet-inspired collection. Shown with Nike Air Force 1 Midi sneakers, pastel-coloured dresses in loosely flowing ethereal batiste took to the runway. Others were tight, in see-through rose-patterned cotton; in a clinging stretch material with one bare shoulder; cut into ten asymmetrical layers, or draped. The bathing suit still reigns in many bare backs, and pleats both narrow and wide danced around young, very girly short dresses. Some may be seen on influencers next CFW.
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WWW.PILGRIM.DK The Jewellery Room 1 0 August 2017
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@PILGRIMJEWELLERY
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A WOMAN’S WORLD
MUNTHE
Time: 14:00 Place: Royal Danish Academy of Music Words: Jeppe Ugelvig
Be it a colour, an image, or a memory, Naja Munthe usually works from a single impression to produce her seasonal collections. For SS18, it was the characteristic striped woven fabrics of 20th-century household attire for women that served as inspiration, which led the designer into a refreshingly conceptual investigation of the history of women’s work, and a celebration of the diversification of women’s lives and careers in society in recent decades. Despite Munthe’s gesturing to the diversity of the modern woman, it was a glaringly cohesive girl that emerged from the collection, which felt smart, casual, affluent — not least from the casting, which almost exclusively consisted of classically groomed Nordic girls. Pleated frocks and ruffled aprons were manipulated to form challenging but tasteful cocktail dresses — while three-layered striped pajamas were elevated into chic, breezy evening looks through intricate detailing. The colours, too, grew from midnight blues into surprising and ambitious two-tone yellows on leather and knits — only the print story was a bit too extensive, encompassing everything from Japanese embroidery to American varsity merch. Once more, Naja Munthe proved her worth as an accessible conceptualist, with a crucial understanding of her home market.
SWAN-SONG BODY POLITICS
NICHOLAS NYBRO
Time: 13:00 Place: Christian IV’s Brewhouse Words: Jeppe Ugelvig Denmark’s very own queer provocateur bade adieu to Copenhagen Fashion Week for now with a loud show in the musty dungeons of Christian IV’s Brewhouse. An RTW-schedule would only serve the aesthete for so long, his practice belonging more in the realm of costume and couture, as he asserted with a conceptual swan song that returned to the basic premise of any fashion practice: the body. Masterful material manipulation mimicked wrinkles, fat rolls, and many of the body’s other folds, particularly successfully through ethereal Hellenic gowns and dresses in sculpturally shaved tulle. Interspersed were fully naked models of all sizes and shapes, which despite the gimmick factor, served as a joyful commentary on the industry’s continuous obsession with the ideal 180 cm twiggish body. As powerful and precise as his show-stopping eveningwear was, just as weak and technically imprecise were his more street-inspired looks, which is why we can only feel excited about Nybro’s more conceptual future endeavors. The masterpiece was a bombastic brown full-length Victorian wedding gown that took up the whole catwalk as the model marched majestically through the crowd – which Nybro, of course, kissed goodbye to in full-frontal nudity.
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SHIPWRECKED BY MALENE BIRGER Time: 12:00 Place: Tap 1 Words: Courtney Forrest
Since taking the helm at By Malene Birger, Creative Director Christina Exsteen has presented consistently strong, architecturally inspired collections. For Spring/Summer 2018, she took a more relaxed approach to the silhouette, allowing a woman’s confidence in her own skin to give the clothes power, versus the other way around. Described in show notes as a “love letter to São Paulo”, Exsteen cited as inspiration the contrast between the city’s tropical, lush jungle, abundance of concrete, and modern architecture. But, as the final walk came around the winding runway, the first thought that came to mind was what it might look like if a yacht carrying Amal Clooney and her Brazilian lover (sorry George) met with a “Gilligan’s Island”-esque, shipwrecked fate. Like Mrs. Clooney, the wearer of the majority of this collection will need to be tall — the billowy flowing silks and voluminous caftans would otherwise be
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hard to pull off. The vibe was sultry, from the slicked back wet hair, glowing skin, and pulsing Brazilian music. Skin is in, be it overt — think thigh-high slits, low scoopedback silk blouses, breezy knotted tanks, and dresses in a blown-out snake print — or more suggestive, in body-hugging lurex and ruffled lycra bodysuits paired with pleated silk sarongs. Exsteen didn’t completely abandon the power suit — the white double-breasted number was dead chic. The cotton shirtings were strong — particularly when accented with clusters of jeweled trinkets. And speaking of accessories, get the waitlists ready for the mini snakeskin drawstring bag and openweave market tote. Immediately following the show, 11 key pieces from the collection were available for purchase on the brand’s website, marking the third season of its see now/buy now initiative.
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LOLITA
CECILIE BAHNSEN Time: 15:00 Place: Glentevej 47-49 Words: Marie Jedig
Remember being a little girl and begging your mama to give you permission to wear your favourite princess costume to school? Cecilie Bahnsen makde that dream come true yesterday for all grown-up fairytale believers. We were immediately brought back to boarding school with Emma Leth opening the show as the only model in a long dress, leading the way as a tutor for the new pupils. Hopes and expectations were high for the awardwinning and rising star of Danish fashion, Cecilie Bahnsen. Her way of challenging silhouettes and redefining women’s wear with playful, almost childish and dreamy collections is incredible. An art gallery seemed the perfect venue for a show of this caliber, the contemporary Galleri Nicholai Wallner setting the scene: This season, Cecilie Bahnsen gave us a delicate, innocent collection with her signature ruffles and empire lines in a black and white palette with a touch of yellow and baby pink. The collection was like reading Lolita by Vladimir Nabokov and getting caught by a sudden fascination and obsession with innocent youth, as emphasized by tightly braided hair and white knee-high socks in flats. So purely innocent, it’s provocatively sexy.
TEENAGE ANGST
HOLZWEILER
Time: 16:00 Place: Copenhagen Central Post Building Words: Courtney Forrest
There was a good bit of buzz surrounding Norwaybased Holzweiler’s debut at CFW, but it reached fever pitch in the courtyard of the Copenhagen Central Post Building upon the arrival of Henke Holm, star of the cult TV show “Skam”, and his girlfriend Lea. Pop culture and television have always influenced fashion — in the 90s, it was “My So Called Life”, now “Skam” and Netflix’s “13 Reasons Why” have captured the zeitgeist. As the models hit the runway, any one of them could have been mistaken for cast members, including the quintessential cool girl, American model Erin Wasson, who closed the show. This is Grunge 2.0 — plaids, daisies, floral prints, baby doll dresses, oversized sweaters, Baja knits, and patent creepers. Yes, it is still cool and completely wearable, but unlikely to move the needle as it did the first time around. Next season, we’d like to see a more innovative, progressive presentation -- perhaps of the digital variety -- that speaks more directly to their target customer.
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N O R D I C M E E T S T H E M E D
Bursts of flavour are on the menu – including vegan choices – at the all-day restaurant P in the heart of Copenhagen’s Latin Quarter. Enjoy Mediterranean culinary combos inspired by Nordic sensibility.
P E ATE RY KR Y S TA L GA D E 2 4 / 1 1 7 2 KØ BENH AV N K + 4 5 3 3 4 5 9 8 9 0 / P-EATER Y. CO M
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STINE GOYA
FLASHBACK FORWARD
Time: 17:00 Place: Faurschou Foundation Words: Marie Jedig
With memories of breathtaking shows by Stine Goya in the past, featuring surprising elements such as a swimming pool as show location, you couldn’t help but have your expectations high for her tenyear anniversary after a three-year absence from the Copenhagen Fashion Week schedule.
on an assembly line in beautiful shades of some of Goya’s signature colours: burned orange, fuchsia pink, and faded blue, seen in kimonos, dresses, knits, and suits in classical loose fits. Floating silhouettes with statement jewellery demonstrated a perfect team-up with the jewellery designer Julie Nielsdotter.
The uncrowned sprechstallmeister of the Danish fashion circus, Stine Goya is definitely one of the big girls in the industry, and it’s a pleasurable and comforting experience to watch a show where every element is well-thought-out and accomplished. Even when put in an unconventional framework: The location, Faurschou Foundation Art Gallery, challenged the runway concept as we know it, and helped to combine fashion with performance and installation art.
Second, heavily choreographed models worshipped and bowed before an art installation in the middle of the venue, giving off strong religious associations with black and bright colours and garden prints. Third, a group of top models stood under a vast suspended cloud, like angels in heaven, in delicate, pastel-coloured gowns. This was followed by a finale outside by the water, with smoke in shades of pink and yellow.
The collection, named “Flashback Forward” in reference to past, future, and present collections, played not only on the life cycle of fashion, but on life itself.
In the show release, Goya stated her wish to make an imprint, and there is no doubt that she made a brilliant talk-of-the-week performance. It takes a lot to create a collection powerful enough to shine in heavy art settings.
First, models walked down a podium like robots
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QVARTZ is a management consulting company and like many fashion brands, we have Nordic roots but global reach. We are proud to support Copenhagen Fashion Week and indeed a range of Nordic fashion companies.
www.qvartz.com COPENHAGENFASHIONWEEK.COM
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LADIES IN RED
STASIA
Time: 18:00 Place: Hotel d’Angleterre Words: Lotte Freddie Stasia Hallas is a veteran of Danish fashion. Since her start over 40 years ago, she has earned herself a title as Lady of Glamour, excelling in party robes, dressing society, celebrities, artists, and politicians, as well as young girls for white confirmation or student dress – and their mothers and grandmothers wanting something SPECIAL. Stasia, uniquely, is sought out by all ages. Though a gala specialist, the largest part of her business is handsome daywear, which next season has a strong military and uniform influence — a new approach owing to her chosen collaboration with the young Søren le Schmidt, who has a tailor’s degree and was formerly part of designer David Andersen’s business. The Stasia team members complement each other: Schmidt’s preference for black has been toned down and merges well with Stasia’s feminine, more colourful approach, and his long lines accentuate her detail-focussed design. Stasia and sensuality are closely linked — the collection’s long or short robes enveloped and celebrated the body in beautiful glimmering luxury lace, pearls, and sequins. Black feathers lined the bottom seam of a black smoking dress; black YSLstyle smokings competed with new red military jackets and trousers with lapels and galloons in black satin. Denmark’s European Commissioner, Margrethe Vestager, and her young daughter, Ella, were both enthralled by the collection, thus underlining Stasia’s ageless appeal.
A HISTORY OF VIOLENCE
HAN KJØBENHAVN Time: 19:00 Place: CIFF Bella Center Words: Jeppe Ugelvig
After a rather perplexing winter collection that included a staged hanging of models, Han Kjøbenhavn’s SS18 show was preceded by considerable anticipation. But the pulled back industrial set design within the cavernous warehouse spaces of CIFF Copenhagen set the mood for a surprisingly austere and notably mature collection, one that elaborated on Jannik Wikkelsø Davidsen’s post-industrial aesthetic universe while defining a future trajectory for the Danish menswear-cum-womenswear brand of internationally recognized luxury. Set entirely in lush monochromes of concrete grey, ruby, navy blue, and dark khaki, each look surpassed the other, particularly through crisply tailored coats and jackets distinct with oversized appliqué army pockets applied freely on chests, sleeves, and padded shoulders for men (joy!). It’s no secret that Davidsen finds inspiration in militaristic dress, but here, it was elevated from mere trope to actual thematic, its characteristics analyzed both through its social and formal specificity — all in velour, not to forget, which once more completely flipped over the collection’s otherwise masculine expression. As a finale, a series of looks were digitally printed entirely in a bold renaissance war paint (of unspecified origin), which intellectually underlined Davidsen’s interest in the aestheticization of violence. Conscription rarely looked better.
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T U E SDAY W E D NESDAY T H U RSDAY F R I DAY S AT URDAY There are five days in the week of fashion. We have produced five tees to broadcast this truth, purchasable on copenhagenfashionweek.com Buy one and then strive to collect ‘em all by instagramming your look with #cphfw in a way no one else could imagine - and get another daily tee sent your way.
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MAGASIN DU NORD
Yesterday morning, lux department store Magasin du Nord announced the five nominees of its annual Fashion Prize, a prestigious accolade which will be awarded this fall to either AF Agger, Randy Collection, All at Sea, Clouds, or Lærke Andersen. WORDS: MAGNUS JOREM PHOTO: SAHEL HAMDAM
Two fashionistas share lifehacks: “If you ever need to get home without a DUI risk, Maria, order pizza delivery over the phone and then enter the pizzeria saying no one will be home to pay unless you get a ride in the pizzamobile!”
Certain fashionistas are not content with their own TV shows, fashion columns, and blog exposure, but need to hog at least three microphones in order to satiate their daily attention needs.
When you play the game of fashion, you win, or you DIE, proclaimed journalist Chris Pedersen, a serious statement met with roaring laughter from the emerging talents still clueless about the cut-throat state of the industry.
Model Malthe Lund Madsen asks nominee Adrian Sølberg how to graduate from being a beautiful object to creating beautiful objects.
What if pop-singer Pink had a baby with an eighties Troll Doll and it were dressed by Siberian grandmothers? Magasin du Nord’s buying director Margrethe Dal Lehrmann likes her men denimed and skyscrapery.
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Magasin du Nord’s marketing director Lise Bloch Thomsen believes that all women who work can benefit immeasurably from architecting their lives.
Find someone in your life who makes you smile the way As Øland’s coffee makes her sparkle.
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TOMMY HILFIGER BREAKFAST Just as the Danish summer finally arrived, Tommy Hilfiger hosted a breakfast on Wednesday morning for a swanky cast of business partners and magazine editors, featuring two sizzling pieces of eye-candy who could thankfully dress down. WORDS: MAGNUS JOREM PHOTO: SAHEL HAMDAM
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1. The group of women lovingly known as ELLE-ingerne were given a green-screen for this photo and the promise of a Saint Tropez backdrop. 2. Irina Lakicevic, editor in chief of MINT JOURNAL, believes Pouty is the new Blue Steel. 3. Take a three-week summer course in French and BAM! This is how you look. 4. Time-travelling pop songstress Aura arrived by teleportation from the Summer of Love, and there was no security to check the contents of her handbag! 5. PRD’s Henrik Juhl with friend who undoubtedly is a San Francisco native. 6. Editor of IN magazine Anne Axholm loudly lectured her friend on the important differences between pineapple crochet and filet crochet. 7. Due to these two delicious meatsicles, the event was spiked with boners and ladyboners. 8. ELLE Magazine’s Cecilie Ingdal and Mie Juel had a chat with Ellen Hillingsøe about how they’d revitalize First Lady style if they ever lived in the White House. 9. “Absolutely NOT, Susan. I specifically told you to get MAUVE curtain drapings, do you SERIOUSLY NOT KNOW that MAGENTA is GAUDY now? Get Barbara on the phone PRONTO.” 10. Some at the breakfast were bewildered by the lack of Korean bulgogi.
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ORANGE IS THE NEW BLACK
Copenhagen’s new pride, the recently opened Hermés flagship store, celebrated its arrival with a delicate brunch for prominent fashion week people that included lots of instagrammable photo-ops, including an ice-cream stand in the label’s signature hue. WORDS: LINE HINDSGAUL PHOTO: SAHEL HAMDAM
The most instagrammed ice cream stand of the season – a cute and sagacious gimmick.
Copenhagen Fashion Week CEO Camilla Frank couldn’t resist the temptation. The grand Hermés store is located on Højbro Plads 4
Some attendees fell right into place.
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Stylist Anja Camilla Alajdi enjoying the spectacular store.
Blogger and Eurowoman stylist Emili Sindlev with friend.
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Fashion editor Johanne Brostøm and editorial director Malou Wedel Bruun from ELLE.
Costume besties: Fashion editor Jeanette Friis Madsen and fashion director Thora Vladimarsdóttir.
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7.5% OF THE GLOBAL FASHION
INDUSTRY COMMITS TO
CIRCULAR FASHION
At Copenhagen Fashion Summit 2017, the Global Fashion Agenda launched a Call to Action for a Circular Fashion System to counteract today’s unsustainble ”take, make, dispose” system. We are proud to announce that 64 companies and corporations have committed to take action. Learn more at copenhagenfashionsummit.com/commitment
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COPENHAGEN STREETSTYLE PHOTO: ADAM KATZ SINDING
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GUIDE TO COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK Here‘s your overview of all shows, events, showrooms, and trade fairs of Copenhagen Fashion Week. Take out this guide and fold it for a convenient guide on the go.
SHOW SCHEDULE THU AUGUST
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THE TRADE FAIRS
TIME
09.00
TIME
15.00
DESIGNER VENUE
LOVECHILD 1979 LANGELINIE ALLÉ 47, 2100 KBH Ø
DESIGNER VENUE
DESIGNERS REMIX CIRKELBROEN, NICOLAI EIGTVEDS GADE 32
Wed 9:00-19:00
TIME
10.00
TIME
16.00
Øksnehallen,
DESIGNER
DESIGNER
VENUE
JULIE FAGERHOLT HEARTMADE PILESTRÆDE 45, 4.
UNIFORMS FOR THE DEDICATED LOKOMOTIVVÆRKSTEDET, OTTO BUSSES VEJ 5A
TIME
11.00
DESIGNER VENUE
HALO CIFF, BELLA CENTER, CENTER BOULEVARD 5
REVOLVER VILLAGE Thur 10:00-19:00 Fri 10:00-16:00 Halmtorvet 11
DESIGNER
VENUE
TIME DESIGNER VENUE
SCANDINAVIAN ACADEMY OF FASHION DESIGN, GRADUATES VEGA ENGHAVEVEJ 40, 1674 KBH V
VENUE
TIME
17.00
DESIGNER VENUE
GANNI REFSHALEVEJ 173A, 1432 KBH K
TIME
18.00
DESIGNER VENUE
ASTRID ANDERSEN LOKOMOTIVVÆRKSTEDET, OTTO BUSSES VEJ 5A
T +45 3964 8586 info@revolver.dk
CIFF TRADE FAIR Wed 9:00-18:00 Thur 9:00-18:00 Fri 9:00-18:00 Bella Center Center Boulevard 5 Copenhagen S T +45 32 52 88 11 visit@ciff.dk
TIME
19.00
DESIGNER VENUE
SAKS POTTS PAVILLONEN, LANGELINIE 10, 2100 KBH Ø
Wed 9:00-18:00
TIME
20.00
Julius Thomsens Plads 1
DSKD, BA GRADUATES THORVALDSENS MUSEUM, BERTEL THORVALDSENS PLADS 2
T +45 32 52 88 11
Thur 9:00-18:00
CIFF KIDS
12.00 MARTIN ASBJØRN CIFF, BELLA CENTER, CENTER BOULEVARD 5
Copenhagen V
Thur 9:00-18:00 Fri 9:00-17:00 Forum Copenhagen Frederiksberg C
TIME
13.00
DESIGNER
DESIGNER VENUE
BITTE KAI RAND STAY, ISLANDS BRYGGE 79, KBH S
VENUE
TIME
14.00
TIME
21.00
DESIGNER
BAUM UND PFERDGARDEN BREDGADE 33, 1260 KBH K
DESIGNER VENUE
HÆRVÆRK BISPEBJERG STATION, 2400 NV
VENUE
pr@ciffkids.dk
CIFF RAVEN Wed 9:00-18:00 Fri 9:00-18:00 Bella Center Center Boulevard 5 Copenhagen S T +45 32 52 88 11 visit@ciff.dk
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EVENTS SHOWROOMS AND TRADE FAIR STANDS LE FIX X STAR WARS - EXHIBITION & PARTY TIME: Thursday, August 10, 16:00-22:00 PLACE: Kronprinsensgade 9b, 1114 Copenhagen K By invitation only
GESTUZ TIME: August 7-11, 09:00-12:00 PLACE: Store Kongensgade 95, Central Copenhagen By appointment only
YVONNE KONÉ SS18 COLLECTION LAUNCH TIME: Thursday, August 10, 11:00-13:00 PLACE: Store Strandstræde 19B, Central Copenhagen By invitation only
AIAYU SHOWROOM TIME: August 8-12, 08:00-20:00 PLACE; Dampfærgevej 2A, 2100 Østerbro By appointment only
CÎROC FASHION CELEBRATION TIME: Friday, August 11, 20:30-23:30 PLACE: Kunstforeningen Gl. Strand Læderstræde 15, Central Copenhagen By invitation only
ANNE VEST TIME: August 8-12, 09:00-20:00 PLACE: Storeregnergade 5, second floor (Br. counting) Central Copenhagen By appointment only THE JEWELLERY ROOM TIME: Thursday, August 10, 10:00-16:00 Place: Skuespilhuset - Sankt Annæ Pl. 36, Central Copenhagen By invitation only
HORNSLETH ADIOS X ALICE MAGAZINE X WAGINA PINEAPPLE X BAR DJUS X BEST BUDS TIME: August 10, 22:30-04:00 PLACE: Hornsleth Løvstræde 4, 1152 Central Copenhagen
MASORÉ SS18 RELEASE EVENT TIME: August 11, 17:00-20:00 PLACE: Bredgade 56, Central Copenhagen By invitation only
OPEN SCHEDULE Events that are open to all. No invitations necessary
MEDINA x CUSTOMMADE x BOOZT.COM MEVATION CHARITY COLLECTION TIME: 8-12 August PLACE: Custommade Flagship Store, Christian IX’s Gade 5, 10:00-18:00 CIFF WOMENSWEAR SHOW SS18 TIME: Thursday, August 10, 12:30-13:00 PLACE: Bella Center, Center Boulevard 5, Amager, 2nd Floor B0 CIFF SHOES SHOW SS18 TIME: Thursday, August 10, 15:00-15:30 PLACE: Bella Center, Center Boulevard 5, Amager 1st Floor B4 CIFF LINGERIE SHOW SS18 TIME: Thursday August 10, 10:00-10:30 PLACE: Bella Center – Center Boulevard 5, København S 2nd Floor B4
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MFPEN AW17 PRESENTATION TIME: Thursday, August 10, 15:00-16:00 PLACE: Ingerslevsgade 103, Vesterbro
SAKS POTTS X HOLLY GOLIGHTLY TIME: Friday, August 11, 15:00-19:00 PLACE: Store Regnegade 2, Central Copenhagen
NIXON BUI WOMEN SS18 TIME: Thursday, August 10, 16:00-21:00 and Friday, August 11, 16:00-21:00 PLACE: Galleri VESS, Oehlenschlægersgade 36, Vesterbro
C.P. COMPANY - THE ART OF GARMENT DYEING TIME: Friday, August 11, 16:00-19:00 PLACE: Kronprinsensgade 9b, Central Copenhagen
WOOD WOOD WW15Y CELEBRATION TIME: Thursday, August 10, 16:00-05:00 PLACE: Rust, Guldbergsgade 8, Nørrebro DAY BIRGER ET MIKKELSEN AT ARCH TIME: Thursday, August 10, 23:00-05:00 PLACE: Nørregade 41, Central Copenhagen
LE MANAGEMENT X THE AM CREW X LE21ÈME X HÆRVÆRK TIME: Friday, August 11, 23:00-05:00 PLACE: Nørregade 41, Central Copenhagen ELITE MODELS X MONCLER X CFW SS18 CLOSING PARTY TIME: Saturday, August 12, 23:30-05:00 PLACE: Nørregade 41, Central Copenhagen
JULIE SANDLAU AW17 BAMBOO COLLECTION PREVIEW TIME: Friday, August 11, 10:00-18:00 PLACE: Gammel Mønt 4, 1117, Central Copenhagen
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HOPE - WOOD WOOD - FILIPPA K - ARMOR LUX - RODEBJER NORSE PROJECTS - BACK - IVAN GRUNDAHL - RIKA - WHYRED RABENS SALONER - UNIVERSAL WORKS - LEE - SOULLAND STINE GOYA - 2NDDAY - PETER JENSEN - ALL AT SEA - FILSON JANE KØNIG - SAKS POTTS - ROYAL REPUBLIQ - R/H STUDIO ESSENTIEL ANTWERP - LIBERTINE LIBERTINE - NEW BALANCE GRAUMANN - BAUM UND PFERDGARTEN - MFPEN - RAVN WESC - WRANGLER - MUCKER - TRANSIT - FRED PERRY LAURELL ANNE SOFIE MADSEN - BAND OF OUTSIDERS - EDWIN JEANS ART COMES FIRST - GRENSON - S.N.S. HERNING - STYLEIN HOUSE OF DAGMAR - STUTTERHEIM - RVLT - STELLA NOVA ANDERSEN-ANDERSEN - MADS NØRGAARD COPENHAGEN AF AGGER - STIG P - K-WAY - DICKIES - RAINS - REALITY STUDIO LOVECHILD 1979 - PELECHECOCO - MUNTHE - VELOUR - KOKOON DR. DENIM - SCHNAYDERMAN’S - POLER STUFF - NUÉ NOTES ELAINE HERSBY - AMOV - UNIFORMS FOR THE DEDICATED RAINS - TEVA - ODEUR STUDIOS - H2O SPORTSWEAR - PENFIELD PACKMACK - MORTEN USSING - BUSNEL - ATP ATELIER BLANCHE - KOWTOW - 5PREVIEW - BIRKENSTOCK - EASTPAK CORNELIA WEBB - INDIGOFERA - AMERICAN VINTAGE - AHLVAR MFPEN - THE LAST CONSPIRACY - COTE ET CIEL - FREYA DALSJØ DAY BIRGER ET MIKKELSEN - SANDQVIST - NYGÅRDSANNA SHOE THE BEAR - JASON MARKK - 5PREVIEW - HOSBJERG SIX AMES - CHAMPION REVERSE WEAVE - NOSOMNIA - EPICÉ LIVID JEANS - COUDRE BERLIN - VIBE HARSLØF - KESTIN HARE KLITMØLLER COLLECTIVE - SEMPACH - M-WIESNECK - WEMOTO Opening hours Wednesday 1st of February: 09:00 am - 07:00 pm Thursday 2nd of February: 10:00 am - 07:00 pm Friday 3rd of February: 10:00 am - 04:00 pm Revolver Village Øksnehallen Halmtorvet 11, DK-1700 Copenhagen V www.revolver.dk
www.revolver.dk