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was the back-wall climb, The Northern Lights (5.12a). We climbed the first part, Alaska Highway (5.11d), in order to acquaint ourselves with its brutality. Jeremy sent the crux second pitch, an overhanging, flaring, groove with multiple cruxes noting that he had used every single rock climbing technique he had ever learned. We returned several days later and added The Calling (5.12a). The route is sustained and physical and the hardest I have ever climbed. Jeremy on-sighted the route including the deviant crux involving a difficult series of slab moves followed by an off-balance dyno to a dirty ledge followed by a mantle and another dyno to a dirtier ledge. Jeremy and I had a fantastic time in Squamish; it is among of our favorite areas to climb. Extended climbing trips are becoming more of a luxury, and we are both grateful to have shared this one. Today (September 29) Jeremy left for Malawi with Joe Forrester (’06) in search of first ascents, and tomorrow I begin a Master’s Program at the University of Chicago. -Christopher Burwell
The Grand Wall III 5.11 A0, Squamish July 4th, 2009 Kevin Brumbach (’07) and Patrick Odenbeck The weekend of July 4th was my only free weekend of the summer and I was able to convince a friend of mine, Patrick, to do the 15 hour drive from Bozeman to meet me in Squamish. After spending a day in 90o heat slithering up the greasy cracks at the Smoke Bluffs we headed back to camp in search of shade and some food. We were greeted by a sign indicating that the falcon closure of the Grand Wall had been lifted and we immediately began racking up for an attempt the next morning. Fearful that the route would be getting ravaged by other parties we set out at 6am and were pleasantly surprised to be the first and only ones on the route. A few hundred feet of ledge traverses, and one 15 foot chain climb got us to the start. I quickly lead the first run out 5.7 pitch, and swapped leads with Patrick for pitch 2. Soon I was traversing toward the Split Pillar and racing up the short bolt ladder to its base. Patrick scampered up the ever widening corner, and I followed grunting through the final chimney section with the backpack dangling between my legs. The Sword pitch was just as beautiful and daunting as I had imagined and after a few minutes for a breather, I grabbed the gear and began jamming up the crack. Hitting the crux bulge I placed my favorite nut (#3 BD) and began thrutching to the stance above. Exposed face climbing and a nice corner lie-back followed and soon I found myself working my way up the final bolt ladder. The remaining pitches were strenuous and fun, but as the exposure began to decrease we soon realized the route was coming to an end. Hitting the Bellygood ledges we began traversing off the face and over to the descent route. A few beers and a box of macaroni and cheese were the perfect end to one of the best routes we have done! -Kevin Brumbach