is often distracting. I pull up to Lake Willoughby, in my opinion, the best venue for pure ice in the lower 48 states. It rivals the Canadian Rockies in scale and grandeur and within a half-mile of cliff offers a huge amount of ice, usually W15 and harder. Anybody willing to argue surely hasn’t been here. Fortunately, the only other party here is ascending The Promenade (WI5+), about 100 feet to the right of The Gent. I look up and I mentally break down the bulges, rests, and nuances of this blue monster. After a breathing exercise and a full stretch at the base, I start up. Despite my attempts
famous last words. The ice is perfect but climbing steep pitch after pitch without a rest puts a toll on my hands and forearms. I take extra time to shake out on good placements and even stretch my arm while hanging. After what seems like hours I reach the final bulge. Silently, I continue to climb, the ice becoming a little more tenuous. After a few awkward moments and a terrifying tool placement shift, I reach the trees. Usually I try to sprint up climbs and down them, and would be irritated that no one has broken trail through the birch forest. But with new snow on the ground and trees, it
otherwise, on the first pitch, I am nervous. But as I gain a rhythm, I become relaxed. I talk to the party on The Promenade as I quickly gain elevation. It turns out to be Andy Tuthill, a prolific route developer here in New England. Each bit of ice he kicks off shatters as it bounces through the air to my right. No way it could hit me here, but I’m still nervous. “Ya missed him Andy!,” his partner yells. Just my type of black humor. “I’m feeling nice and comfortable here with my rope, youth!,” Andy yells. “I’ve got tethers!,” I yell back. Although that sounds like
is a joy to wander through the pristine landscape on a perfect day. Most people assume soloing ice to be an act of the mentally deranged. For me, it’s mostly just the childlike urge to have an adventure in the woods that lures me out. Summary Lake Willoughby, Vermont The Last Gentleman, IV WI5 [This page] Michael on the Ruth Glacier, AK. Tim Gibson CCAJ
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