Red Dihedral IV 5.10, Positive Vibrations IV 5.11a Incredible Hulk, High Sierra, California Drew Thayer (‘11)
A
fter a week enduring hordes of tourists and dodging gestapo rangers in Yosemite Valley, not to mention getting humbled by sandbagged grades on the Valley classics, Dan Rothberg (‘11) and I motored over Tioga pass to the East Side of the Sierra in search of solitude and backcountry rock. I’d heard rumors that the “Finest granite in the Sierra” could be found on the Incredible Hulk up near Bridgeport. However, I didn’t know what could conceivably be called the “finest granite” in a range that includes the cliffs of Yosemite and the domes of Tuolumne. I now agree with that designation. Climbing on the Incredible Hulk is one of the most pleasurable backcountry experi-
ences I’ve had. Ascending the Hulk takes a climber up flawless dihedrals, over jagged roofs and blocky crenulations, and all on the most solid, consistent granite I’ve ever seen. Beyond that, the stone is smooth and shimmering white. In the afternoon sun, the Hulk feels like the Minas Tirith of backcountry rock. We camped by a lake at the base and ascended Red Dihedral first, which proved to be a fine backcountry classic with two excellent pitches. The Red Dihedral itself is sustained and aesthetic with an exciting finish and the 5th pitch offers a splitter 5.10 finger/thin hands option which is well worth it. The next day we pulled our boots on and climbed Positive Vibrations, which is unquestionably the finest line I’ve ever had the pleasure of climbing. The route is strenuous and ascends the Hulk’s sharp prow in eight full-value pitches, involving two fun 5.11 cruxes and an incredible amount of sustained 5.10 climbing that requires about every technique in a crack climber’s repertoire. While cranking unrelenting jams, the afternoon sun washed a golden tint over perfect white stone. I soon caught the spell of the High Sierra and entered that place where the gulf of air beneath me was no longer something to fear, but simply a friend enjoying the movement alongside me. It’s these afternoons that make all the training, hunting for gear bargains, long drives, and a diet centered around peanut butter worthwhile. Of course, Dan and I never get away with a perfect climbing day, so the gods of Rock, Paper, and Scissors soon decreed that he would lead the fifth pitch in the dark to retrieve a stuck rap line. Even then, trying to duck away from a chilly breeze while belaying my buddy by headlamp, I couldn’t think of any other place I would rather be than stuck on this moonlit castle in the wilderness. [This page] Dan Rothberg enjoying golden granite on The Hulk. Drew Thayer [Facing page] Drew Thayer stemming on Positive Vibrations. Photo courtesy of Neil Kaufman.
48 CCAJ