City Palate May June 2016 by City Palate

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the wine & beer issue CITYPALATE.CA

MAY JUNE 2016

Located in

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contents

CITY PALATE MAY JUNE 2016

FEATURES

30 n

The Iron Sommelier 2 dishes, 3 sommeliers, 4 judges, 6 wines and 6 beers Shelley Boettcher

Perfect pairings.

Great food, great company.

36 n

Down ‘n’ Dirty With an Okanagan Winemaker

38 n

Exploring Wine Country by Motorcycle

Wineries are much more tangible on two wheels Geoff Last

40 n

Experience Extreme Wine, a Provençal Escape

Welcome to wine boot camp Carolyne Kauser-Abbott

44 n

A Garden Club for Kids; Learning to Dig it

It may look bucolic, but Okanagan winemaking’s no day at the beach Kate Zimmerman

A program created by Poppy Innovations to help connect kids to where their food comes from Holly Quan

Cover artist: Nina Palmer is a Calgary-based illustrator and designer. She and partner Todd Macfie own Platform Design. See more of their great work at platformdesign.ca.

Willow Park 9919 Fairmount Drive SE italiancentre.ca | @italianctrYYC | 403-238-4869

CITYPALATE.ca MAY JUNE 2016

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city palate editor Kathy Richardier (kathy@citypalate.ca) publisher Gail Norton (gail@citypalate.ca) magazine design Carol Slezak, Yellow Brick Studios (carol@citypalate.ca) contributing editor Kate Zimmerman contributors Jaclyn Adomeit Matthew Altizer Karen Anderson Shelley Boettcher Chris Halpin Regan Johnson Carolyne Kauser-Abbott Ellen Kelly Pierre Lamielle Geoff Last Holly Quan Allan Shewchuk Julie Van Rosendaal Kate Zimmerman contributing photographers Karen Anderson Regan Johnson for advertising enquiries, please contact advertising@citypalate.ca account executives Janet Henderson (janet@citypalate.ca) Ellen Kelly (ellen@citypalate.ca) Liz Tompkins (liz@citypalate.ca) prepress/printing CentralWeb

3PM – 5PM DAILY ½ PRICE TEQUILA & TACOS $5 MARGARITAS & BEERS SELECTION OF 200+ TEQUILAS anejoyyc | 587.353.2656 #2, 2116 – 4th Street SW Calgary, AB | info@anejo.ca

distribution Gallant Distribution Systems Inc. The Globe and Mail website management Jane Pratico (jane@citypalate.ca) City Palate is published 6 times per year: January-February, March-April, May-June, July-August, September-October and November-December by City Palate Inc., 722 - 11 Avenue SW Calgary, AB T2R 0E4 Subscriptions are available for $48 per year within Canada and $68 per year outside Canada. Editorial Enquiries: Please email kathy@citypalate.ca For questions or comments please contact us via our website:

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CITYPALATE.ca MAY JUNE 2016

contents

CITY PALATE MAY JUNE 2016

Keeping Calgarians healthy since 1995

DEPARTMENTS

11 n word of mouth

Notable culinary happenings around town

13 n eat this

What to eat in May and June Ellen Kelly

Save 5 when you spend 30 $ .00

14 n drink this

Wine auctions Shelley Boettcher

Bring this ad and spend $30 (after discounts, deposits and taxes are applied) at any Amaranth Calgary location and get $5 off.

16 n get this

Must-have kitchen stuff Karen Anderson

18 n great finds

Expires June 30, 2016. Not valid on Customer Appreciation Days (May 4th and June 1st). No cash value.

Boxwood and Crop YYC Regan Johnson

20 n one ingredient

Asparagus Julie Van Rosendaal

Wine Experience Center

24 n feeding people

Bad pairings Jaclyn Adomeit

at Black Hills Estate Winery

26 n well matched

amaranthfoods.ca

Made-in-heaven food and wine pairings Geoff Last

28 n the sunday project

Halawet el Jibn (Sweet Cheese Rolls) with Matthew Altizer

46 n stockpot

Stirrings around Calgary

48 n kids can cook

Grow your very own teeny, tiny, tasty bean sprouts Pierre Lamielle

52 n 6 quick ways with...

Join us for an exceptional tasting experience in our vineyard lounge. Immerse yourself in our terroir while tasting a full flight of our hand-crafted wines. Feeling hungry? Try one of our artisan pizzas from our vineyard kitchen.

Tastings are available by appointment or by drop-in from 10 am to 5 pm daily. Join us in July and August for extended hours during our â&#x20AC;&#x153;Sunset Happy Hourâ&#x20AC;? series.

Rhubarb Chris Halpin

54 n back burner... shewchuk on simmer

Hoser nation? Allan Shewchuk

For details and reservations

please contact (250) 498-0666 or visit

R E A D U S O N L I N E AT C I T Y PA L AT E . C A

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city palate CITYPALATE.ca MAY JUNE 2016

WE HAVE A

BUN FOR THAT

VISIT YOUR LOCAL COBS BREAD TO FIND THE PERFECT BUN FOR YOUR SUMMER FUN

HAMBURGER 10

CITYPALATE.ca MAY JUNE 2016

KAISER

C I A B AT TA

COBSBREAD.COM/BUNS

word of mouth

NOTABLE CULINARY HAPPENINGS AROUND TOWN IN OU R OPIN ION

funner than fun at good earth on 11th st. sw

always good eating at the zoo

Good Earth’s operating partner Marc Gravel and his wife Kat have done such a fun thing attached to the location on 11th St. SW – they’ve set up a Color Me Mine where you can paint ceramics. There are all kinds of great painting possibilities, from fun fantasy figures to practical crockery for your kitchen. Make it a date night, an afternoon with your kids, a gift-making session, birthday party, fun for everyone for every occasion. What’s great about this location is that you can eat and drink Good Earth’s tasty offerings, including wine and beer. After all, you can’t be hungry or thirsty and inspired at the same time!

The Zoo is known for its Safari Sunday brunch, with Mother’s Day and Father’s Day brunches coming up. This summer, beginning in July, check out Grazers restaurant that features locally sourced ingredients. Look for the likes of Tangled Jungle Greens, Chicken and Corn Fritters and Rustic BBQ Pulled Alberta Pork Sandwich. On the kids menu, Chicken Bites, Mini Beef Dip and “Cup of Dirt,” that’s local vanilla gelato, oreo crumbs and gummy worms. Fun! Go graze at the Zoo this summer.

good juice Tasty, healthy juices found at The Main Dish in Bridgeland and at Fit Kitchen in McKenzie Towne. Drink some.

brazilian wine with brazilian barbecue Pampa Brazilian Steakhouse, home of delish meatcentric, rodizio-style Brazilian barbecue, knows you need something equally delish to accompany, so founder Oscar Lopez imports the natural mate, Brazilian wines, and Pampa is the only place you can dine and enjoy them. Some notable selections include Salton Intenso Marselan, Casa Valduga Villa Lobos cab sauv, and Casa Valduga Brut.

satisfy your inner carnivore Carnivore Club is the world’s first cured meat-of-the-month subscription service. CC’s headquarters are in Toronto, but local suppliers provide their delicious products that members of the Carnivore Club can have delivered to their doors. Every month, CC features a new small-batch creator of interesting, premium-quality cured meats, including artisans from Calgary. Visit carnivoreclub.co for all the details.

old coal chocolates More good chocolate in Calgary. Yay! Pastry chef Jolene Kolk started making chocolates, and because coal figured significantly in her growing up in rural Alberta, she named them Old Coal. Succulent morsels packed with flavour, such as honey, rye and ginger, cassis, gin and juniper, and much more. Find them online at oldcoal.com, at the tasting room at Eau Claire Distillery and some Calgary specialty shops in late spring. Old Coal will open its own shop in Okotoks in late spring/summer.

let’s get decadent... Ice cream sandwiches are a really big deal as restaurant desserts these days, and Ms. Decadent Desserts herself, Pam Fortier, does ice cream sandwiches. This one sounds like something we need right this minute... Decadent’s Callebaut chocolate chip cookies sandwiching a filling of crème fraîche ice cream. And, to take it over the top, you can get them half-dipped in Callebaut chocolate. Oh, yes!

delicious honey Sweet Pure Honey is creamy and delicious, hand-packed and labelled by beekeepers Stella and Sheldon who care for 400 hives. Find this good wildflower honey at Savour Fine Foods and Kitchenware in Inglewood. Then, spread it on your grainy breakfast toast.

good cheese from dancing goats After successful careers as ballet dancers, Paul and Craig moved into their next passion based on a love of good food, especially cheese and animals, and Dancing Goats Farm was born. The cheese recipes start with the ethical care of the goats, natural pasture access, wholesome, fresh milk and the variety and quality of cheeses made in small batches.Starting in June, find them in Calgary’s cheese shops and restaurants.

read these Out of the Orchard, Recipes for Fresh Fruit from the Sunny Okanagan, Julie Van Rosendaal (TouchWood Editions, $29.95, soft cover), release date May 3. All about BC tree fruits, like apples, pears, peaches, plums, cherries, in everything from appetizers to desserts, not just pie! (see page 28 for the book launch!) Food Artisans of the Okanagan, Your Guide to the Best Locally Crafted Fare, Jennifer Cockrall-King (TouchWood Editions, $24.95, soft cover). We know by now all the good food and drink to be had in the Okanagan, and this is your handydandy guidebook to more than 125 crafts people that includes maps with destinations plotted. Can’t be without it when you venture into the Okanagan! The Butcher, The Baker, The Wine & Cheese Maker by the Sea, Recipes & Fork-Lore from the Farmers, Artisans, Fishers, Foragers & Chefs of the West Coast, Jennifer Schell (TouchWood Editions, $29.95, soft cover). A celebration of British Columbia’s coastal cuisine, from Tofino to Vancouver to Whistler to Pemberton, and much more.

the great culinary race On Saturday, June 11, 8:30 a.m. to 5 p.m., lace up your running shoes and team up with your foodie friends for City Palate’s first annual Culinary Race.Meet at the Calgary Farmers’ Market, get your clues and GO! A day of fun, prizes and bragging rights. Check the ad on page 46 for all the tasty details, or visit culinaryrace.ca

piggies and pinots Yay! June is pork month, and City Palate has a passion for all things porky, so we invite you to celebrate with us at our 6th annual Pig & Pinot Festival June 16, 7-10 p.m. at Hotel Arts. It’s a fundraising event for Meals on Wheels and 12 talented chef teams will make delicious and original pork dishes from free-range Alberta pork supplied by Spragg’s Meat Shop. As you eat, you will sip on the world’s perfect pinot wines poured by our wine store friends. Check the ad on page 50 for all the delicious details. A perfect evening all ‘round. Tickets $130 at pigandpinotcalgary.eventbrite.ca Celebrate June is Pork Month with a special pork feature at 20 Calgary restaurants. Like what you ate? Then, take that recipe home and re-create it yourself! passionforpork.com

CITYPALATE.ca MAY JUNE 2016

JOIN US FOR OUR 24TH BIRTHDAY SALE!

WINE MARKET FRIDAY MAY 13, SATURDAY MAY 14 & SUNDAY MAY 15 • All in-store wine discounted 15% • All in-store single malt scotch* and other whiskies discounted 10% • • All in-store beer discounted 5% • Other in-store special discounts • In-store or online only, no phone orders, special orders or layaway. No other promotional discounts apply. *Scotch Malt Whisky Society products not available for discount.

1257 Kensington Road NW, Calgary • www.kensingtonwinemarket.com

PROUDLY SERVING CALGARY FOR 24 YEARS!

Growing support. Raising awareness. Show your support for local farmers, field-fresh goodness and sustainable shopping choices. Visit our outdoor pop-up markets, meet the producers and buy direct. Come visit us at your nearest local Co-op.

Pop-up Farmers Markets Dalhousie Co-op Tuesday, July 19th 3-7 pm

Beddington Co-op Thursday, July 21st 3-7 pm

Macleod Trail Co-op Wednesday, July 27th 3-7 pm

Oakridge Co-op Wednesday, July 20th 3-7 pm

Brentwood Co-op Tuesday, July 26th 3-7 pm

Richmond Road Co-op Thursday, July 28th 3-7 pm

27 markets from July 19 - September 18, 2016 Visit localyyc.com for all dates, locations and vendor information.

Interested in being a vendor visit localyyc.com 12

CITYPALATE.ca MAY JUNE 2016

eat this

Ellen Kelly

WHAT TO EAT IN MAY AND JUNE

Spring has sprung a little early this year, but we still must look to our neighbours for most of our seasonal fare. It will be another few weeks before our markets are in full swing and we can enjoy produce that is truly local, but in the meantime, Washington, Oregon and California to the south and BC to the west help us ease into an Alberta spring. Sweet ripe strawberries are always welcome harbingers, while early peas signal the onset of better things to come with their singular burst of greenness. Fresh herbs are unquestionably the best and easiest way to celebrate our slow crawl out of winter. A few chopped chives sprinkled atop grilled fish or fresh basil leaves torn casually into a salad will definitely brighten any springtime meal. There is nothing like fresh tarragon in a marinade for chicken, rosemary adding flavour to barbecued lamb sirloins or sprigs of mint for your own mojitos, right at your fingertips.

Illustrations by Pierre Lamielle

HERBS To grow your herbs, you’ll need a sunny garden, deck or balcony, a large-ish pot or two (with drainage) filled with good potting soil, a few small bedding out plants, a bit of all-purpose fertilizer and regular watering. To begin, select as many plants as will fit comfortably into your chosen pot… remember, they will grow larger. Choose plants that are perky and bright. Be sure to read the blurb on the tags to get an idea of how tall they might get and if they trail or spread. Put taller plants (flat leaf parsley, chives, rosemary, winter savoury, tarragon) in the back, medium sized plants (basil, sage, sorrel) in the centre and trailing plants (thyme, marjoram, oregano, mint, pineapple sage) around the edges. If you have any holes to fill, stick in a few edible flowers like pansies, nasturtiums and/or marigolds. An Alpine strawberry plant or two is a delightful addition to the assembly. As long as you use them judiciously, one pot will handily keep you in herbs all summer and well into the fall.

STRAWBERRIES The modern strawberry is quite a different fruit from its wild forebears. It’s actually a culinary love story, if you will, the result of the marriage between a large yellowish strawberry from Chile to a small, unassuming red berry from Virginia. They met in France, of course. In my opinion, strawberries are best eaten fresh and raw. With the exception of jam, cooked strawberries leave me cold. A fun alternative, when you’ve had your fill of fresh berries, is something I like to call strawberry gin. Like jam, this liqueur can provide a whisper of sunnier days in the deepest winter. Fill a large jar (with a lid) with clean-hulled strawberries. Pour in enough fine berry sugar to come a third of the way up the jar. Add enough gin to cover the fruit, close the jar and store in a cool dark place. Leave for about 30 days, turning the jar occasionally. When the sugar has dissolved and the fruit has lost its colour, strain. Use the resulting liqueur to make adult milkshakes and strawberry sodas or flavour desserts like fools and mousses. If you have any left over by Christmas and you can bear to part with it, a bottle makes a fine gift.

BUY: Look for berries that are shiny and plump with unwilted bright green calyxes. Avoid, if you can, strawberries that are wrapped in plastic. The best fruit will be locally grown and found at a farmers’ market. TIPS: Strawberries are fragile and highly perishable. Refrigerate very ripe berries that are not being used immediately, but just for a few hours. Slice and toss with sugar if you need to keep them longer. Strawberries mold quickly. Avoid washing unless muddy and then only before hulling. DID YOU KNOW? If you’re looking for a strawberry plant to add to your herb pot, ask at the nursery for the French fraise des bois or strawberry of the woods, often called Alpine or European wild. There is a new hybrid, Mora des Bois, worth seeking out.

PEAS Although a package of frozen peas is a pantry must-have, nothing spring has to offer comes close to the pleasure of local, in-season peas, the fresher the better. I buy them in the pod in huge net bags and often don’t end up with enough to cook, they’re so addictive, you can’t eat just one! One kilo will yield about 400 grams of shelled peas, by the way. I can’t imagine an old-style potato salad without peas, so I was pleased when I came across this variation, perfect for an alfresco dinner or lunch. Cook about 1 lb. Yukon Gold potatoes in their skins. Cool enough to handle, then peel and dice. Toss the diced potatoes, while still warm, in a simple vinaigrette made with 3 T. very good olive oil, 1 T. lemon juice, 1/2 t. Dijon mustard, 1/2 t. seeded and finely minced green chile, 1/4 t. freshly ground cumin, kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste. Toss again with 1 c. fresh-shelled peas. Slightly chill the salad, adjust the seasoning and toss with chopped cilantro and green onions just before serving.

BUY: When you’re buying peas in the pod, look for pods that are well filled out, but not swollen. Stay away from pods that are pale green or yellow and are dry or withered. The older the pea, the mealier the texture and the blander the taste. TIPS: Because peas begin to convert sugar so quickly after picking, try to find the freshest you can. Make sure the peas have been cooled immediately after picking and keep them cool heading home. This is why farmers’ markets are so essential… where else could you have this conversation? Ask your farmer! DID YOU KNOW? There is a lot of flavour in the husks after shelling the peas. You can make a light summery vegetable stock by boiling them with celery and onion, a kind of vegetarian “tail to snout.” And the bonus is, you’ll feel incredibly virtuous. Ellen Kelly is a chef and regular contributor to City Palate.

CITYPALATE.ca MAY JUNE 2016

drink this

Shelley Boettcher

WINE AUCTIONS

You’ve been cellaring a few cases of Yellowtail since 1998, and now you want to cash in on your investment, sell it all at a fancy wine auction and retire rich, rich, rich. Keep dreaming. And don’t give up that day job quite yet. “No, no Yellowtail,” says Frank Hall with a laugh. “Baby Duck is out, too.” Hall, president of Hodgins Art Auctions, is a Calgary-based auctioneer who specializes in selling the finer things in life: art, antiques and, yes, booze. Once or twice a year, depending on the demand, he and his team auction off some of the world’s best wines – firstgrowth Bordeaux, rare Burgundies and Super-Tuscans – and spirits such as limited-edition whiskies and cognacs. They’re tentatively planning a wine and spirits auction in Calgary in May, depending on what comes in on consignment.

4 to 7 weekdays • follow us for more details

@thenashyyc • 925 11st SE

And they’re not alone. Waddington’s Auctioneers in Toronto is looking to host an auction or two soon in Calgary, too. “We know there are great buyers there and we have a pretty good idea that there are great sellers there, too,” says Stephen Ranger, Waddington’s vice president. “And our Western Canadian buyers are after the same kinds of things all our buyers are after, like good quality Bordeaux and Burgundy.” While wine auctions aren’t exactly common in Calgary – they happen once or twice a year, at most – the demand is there, and it’s growing. “It’s not a big trend here, but we’re trying to encourage and develop it,” says Hall. “It’s something that will develop over time.” Of course, despite the lousy economy, not everyone is interested in selling their prized wines. Many Calgary collectors are more focused on buying than selling. That’s what brings them to auctions; they’re looking for rare back vintages and special bottles to add to their ever-growing cellars. On the other hand, people move. They get old. They stop drinking. They die. Their interests change. They lose their jobs and they need to liquidate – no pun intended – their assets. While they’re only a small part of his business, Hall says he’s seen interest in wine auctions in Calgary increase considerably in the past 15 to 20 years, something he attributes to the privatization of the province’s liquor stores and the general growth in wine drinking as a trend.

CITYPALATE.ca MAY JUNE 2016

“These new wine shops have done a very good job of educating the public about wine, and they’re handling some top-end wine and spirits,” he says. “And now the younger generation has gotten very much involved, too.” The result? “Some really good cellars have been laid down in Calgary,” he says. “And a lot of the high-end houses now have cellars built in.” If you’re a wine lover with money, you know a cellar is made to be filled. Ranger says Waddington’s is looking to hold four wine auctions in Toronto this year, and it regularly gets inquiries from collectors in Calgary – hence Ranger’s interest in hosting a Calgary-specific wine auction this year. “We think we’d be a good fit,” he says. “We have lots of good friends and clients in Alberta, and there’s a real thirst for good wine in the province.” Hall and his team at Hodgins held a wine and art auction last fall, offering rare whiskies, plus French and Italian wines, alongside art from the likes of Marion Nicoll and A.Y. Jackson. It was a huge success, with interest from around the world. (They sold art to buyers from six different countries.) “It’s many of the same people, to some extent: people who collect art often collect wine,” says Hall. Hall’s own interest in wine started in the 1960s, when he was a young stockbroker in London, England. “I was invited to a venerable city wine merchant for lunch,” he recalls. “They plied us with delicious wines all through the meal, and at the end of the lunch, we were called into one of the young director’s offices and asked what we were going to buy.” “Keep in mind, I was a trainee stockbroker, earning nothing. But my friend and I ended up buying a pipe of port from 1963, which has turned out to be one of the greatest vintages of all time.” The port – about 620 bottles – appreciated 12 times in 10 years, he says, “and it proved to be one of the better investments I’ve ever made.”

The downside? “I was so broke after buying it, I couldn’t take any girls out for about six months afterward.” Hall moved to Calgary, where he started Hall’s Auctions. It’s now owned and operated by Kevin King, but any time someone comes to King about selling wine, he refers them to Hodgins, where King is also a partner. “It’s just a nice fit, wine and art,” says King.

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Celebrate the iii th year of racing at the historic Millarville track in style

These days, Hall has developed pancreatitis and can’t drink. But he still maintains a deep interest in wines and spirits, and does all the appraising himself. “It takes a long time to catalogue wines and do the research, but it’s an interesting subject,” he says. “And there’s pretty good information available on the Internet on values, all those sorts of things.” It’s illegal, by the way, to sell your collection directly to a wine shop. And years ago, the thought of a wine auction in Alberta was also unheard of – and illegal. “It used to be impossible to sell wine at auction except in the case of bankruptcies or estate sales,” Hall notes.

FOOD, FUN & ADVENTURE

SEPTEMBER

8 to 24 2016

“But we appealed to the Alberta Liquor Commission and now they’ve granted us and other companies permission to auction wine as long as it’s properly and, I would say, professionally done. We’ve assured them we have a good reputation and we’re going to keep it that way.” With that in mind, Hodgins Art Auctions only takes wine for auction that has been properly cellared – and only the good stuff, the really good stuff.

Join us for the first ever Millarville Derby at the oldest running Thoroughbred races in Canada – The Millarville Races July 1, 2016

“We often get offered the tail end of an estate, where someone has discovered half a dozen bottles hiding in the basement, but we turn that sort of thing down,” he says. “If it hasn’t been properly cellared, no one’s going to win.” Thinking of selling or buying fine wine or spirits at auction? Here’s a look at some recent sales from Hodgins Art Auctions in 2015. Five bottles of Tenuta San Guido 2008 Sassicaia Bolgheri, $800. Three bottles of Antinori 2008 Solaia, $425. Six bottles of 2010 Chateau Leoville Barton, $650. Four bottles of Chivas Regal (18-, 15-, 12-year and The Century of Malts limited release), $300. Shelley Boettcher is a local wine, food and travel writer. Find her on Twitter @shelley_wine or drinkwithme.com

Dress-up in your own elegant take on Derbywestern – there are no rules but we expect fabulous hats will figure prominently.

JOIN US FOR INDIA 2016 PEOPLE, PLATES AND PALACES: Mumbai Street food and Bollywood Hyderabad Biryani and Jewels Goa Portuguese food and beaches Kerala Spices and Spas

Your entry will include cocktails by Eau Claire Distillery and canapés by River Café and the new Deane House.

15 DAY TOUR $7350.00 (plus taxes) • 4-5 star accommodation • airfare from Calgary • domestic flights in India • cooking with locals • all excursions & daily yoga • Ayurvedic spas

REGISTRATION & ITINERARY PLEASE CONTACT: Karen Anderson karen@calgaryfoodtours.com before May 30, 2016

You’ll find shade and live music, lessons by a local expert on the ins & outs of horse-racing, and other event-day surprises.

FOR TICKETS & INFORMATION

PROCEEDS FROM THIS EVENT WILL GO TO

eauclairedistillery.ca/events

CITYPALATE.ca MAY JUNE 2016

Immerse in the History Indulge in the Food

get this may flowers If you’ve lived in Calgary awhile you know that April showers usually turn into snowflakes not flowers. Round about May, it’s good to stop looking in your garden for flowers and to start looking everywhere else. This jar of delicate dried Salade de fleurs (salad flowers) by Terre Exotique of France will get you through until all our weather doom and gloom turns to bloom in June. Cornflower, marigold and rose petals add much-craved colour and refinement to dishes. The yellow, blue, red and pink flowers are fun to float on cocktails or sprinkle on salad or soup. Perk up a pudding or lace a bowl of ice cream with their elegance. Celebrate spring with a bit of petal power. Terre Exotique Salade de fleurs, $12.95/6g, The Cookbook Co. Cooks

adorably versatile From Beatrix Potter’s Bunnykin collection to Disney’s Mickey Mouse Ear plates, designers have helped us feed our infants and keep them entertained with stories too. Now, Le Creuset would like to add a new chapter to your child’s mealtime storybook with their stylish collection of baby tableware. If your collection includes the many shades of Le Creuset cookware available, you’ll want to add the soft dune, milky pink and pastel blue hues of the spoon, double handled cup, bowl, multi plate and baby bear-shaped ramekin. These new pieces are so adorable that the pink multi plate and ramekin are being purchased as sushi sets by fans of Hello Kitty (they bear a strong resemblance). Now that’s versatility. You could potentially have your child and babysitter enjoying the same tableware. Le Creuset baby ware, $15 and up, Le Creuset, Chinook Centre

the man from uncle – uncle Luigi’s olive oil, that is That would be Uncle Luigi’s olive oil, a long-standing Calgary favourite. You can find it at Mercato and Mercato West, but the Caracciolo family has been selling it since Victor Caracciolo first tasted it in Calabria and started importing it for the original Bridgeland store. The best part is, Luigi really is related – he’s Mamma Cathy’s brother. He was the original farmer, but now a neighbouring olive farmer in Calabria has taken over production to keep up with demand. The oil’s mellow colour and peppery bite are quintessentially southern Italian, a reflection of the hotter climate and earlier picking times in this region. You may have seen Uncle Luigi’s photo by the oil display at Mercato. He’s dressed in his Italian “dinner” shirt (underwear) and he looks like he just spent a long hot day caring for his olive trees. I got to meet the Uncle Luigi last summer and I’m happy to report that he cleans up beautifully and he’s thrilled that people still love the flavour and quality of the single estate extra virgin olive oil that bears his name.

www.bvrrestaurant.com | 403 476 1310 16

CITYPALATE.ca MAY JUNE 2016

Uncle Luigi’s olive oil, $24.95/500ml, Mercato and Mercato West

Karen Anderson

MUST-HAVE KITCHEN STUFF

growler prowl If you are on the prowl for a place to refill your beer growler, J. Webb Wine Merchant has you covered. Growlers are glass jugs with handles designed for transporting draft beer. They’re best filled and consumed on the day of purchase, the large format is popular for parties. At J.Webb, it doesn’t matter where you originally bought your growler, you can bring it or buy one of theirs. Bring it in clean, step up to the growler bar, choose from six rotating beer brands on tap and let the sudsy fun begin. There will always be at least three local beers. A recent visit included Fallen Timber Meadery (honey beer), Tool Shed Brewing Company and Last Best Brewing. Growl on beer lovers!

Best Places for Food and Wine Avenue’s Best Restaurants 2016

1 – 1.89L Growler Beer refills, prices vary according to beer chosen, J. Webb Wine Merchant at The Calgary Farmers’ Market L-R: Sharon Hobbs and Sarah Mehus

CONTEMPORARY

FRENCH BISTRO

candlelight and wine… …conjures soft and romantic, and now you can make it your daily reality with these REWINED candles. They’re wine – the scent of wine – and a candle all in one. The company repurposes wine bottles by cutting them down and filling them with their unique wine-scented soy-based candle wax. The candle maker signs each candle and wax seals the vintage labels that are stamped with a wine connoisseur’s description of the fragrance they hold. There are champagne, cabernet, merlot, pinot grigio, pinot noir, rosé, chardonnay, riesling and sauvignon blanc scents. Let’s hope the warm glow from the candles can match the one we get from sipping real wine.

105, 550-11th Ave. SW

PH 587.352.0964

AVECBISTRO.COM @AVECBISTRO AVEC BISTRO

REWINED Candles, $36, Savour Fine Foods

goji and goodies in hidden mountain gem It takes a true locavore to source foodie hidden gems so I was thrilled when my friend, Canmore resident Callandra Caufield, agreed to take me on a food lover’s tour of her town. We found coffee to rave about, focaccia pizzas, fine French baking and the most hidden gem of all – a prepared-meals outlet called An Edible Life. Owner Carole Beaton is a holistic nutritionist and a great cook. Chef Gary Dayanandan helps with production and they supply baked goods to several cafés around Canmore. They also have a fridge and freezer full of delectable, healthy, prepared meals. The goji cocoa balls are their most famous (gluten-free and dairy-free) treat but save room for savoury dishes like cashew chicken curry and yam and kale stew that my family devoured. Beaton says we can all spend our time frolicking in the mountains and she’ll be happy to do the cooking for us. She just may be the real hidden gem in Canmore. Goji Cocoa Balls, 6/$9, An Edible Life, 109 -112 Kananaskis Way, Canmore Karen Anderson is the owner of Calgary Food Tours.

722 11 Avenue SW, Calgary, AB 403.205.3356 | wine@metrovino.com metrovino.com

CITYPALATE.ca MAY JUNE 2016

great finds

BOXWOOD

If you’ve never eaten at Boxwood, you might think that its location in Central Memorial Park in the heart of downtown Calgary is its most notable feature – but that would be because you’ve never sampled the truly delicious food. Sal Howell, founder and proprietor of the celebrated River Café, has long been vocal about her passion for local, sustainable, nourishing food. In 2007, Howell was pregnant with twins, and was driven and compelled, she says, to eat very clean, but found that quality and simplicity were often difficult to find in one venue. When the City of Calgary offered a space inside the newly refurbished Central Memorial Park for food and beverage development, Howell recognized the opportunity to translate the ethos of River Café – food prepared with the “highest and best intention” – to a casual venue, and Boxwood opened in September of 2010.

L-R: Chef Jeremy Bolen, GM Robyn Buzzee and owner Sal Howell

Boxwood’s footprint is dainty at about a thousand square feet. “Everything that comes in has to be used right away,” says chef de cuisine, JP Comte. “There’s no room to store it!” When the weather is fair and the patio opens, Boxwood’s capacity doubles, but even in the winter, the space manages to feel cozy instead of crowded. In the green months, Boxwood’s garden is an attraction of its own, from the leafy greens in beds to the nasturtium flowers hung from the eaves. Howell says that the garden does little to put a dent in Boxwood’s overall food purchasing, but it does promote urban growing – and every last bit of what the garden produces is used in Boxwood’s food and beverages. The landscaping along the sidewalk, too, reflects Boxwood’s aesthetic. When plans for boulevard redevelopment along 13th Avenue included trees that would eventually cast shade on Boxwood’s garden, Howell enlisted the aid of the Parks Department to convince the city to utilize the space for fruit-bearing trees and shrubs. Boxwood now provides quality, casual food to the masses, whether that happens to be during the downtown lunch rush or in the middle of Lilac Festival. In 2015, Boxwood served sparkling rhubarb drinks to the thirsty crowd – rhubarb rather than lemonade, to take full advantage of the summer abundance of the ubiquitous Alberta rhizome.

GET PIGGY WIT IT!

Apart from the mainstays, like the organic red prairie lentil hummus with housemade flatbread, the menu stays seasonal and flexible, which enables Boxwood to be, as Howell says, “very nimble with our features.” Boxwood has joined River Café in its Level 3 Leaders in Environmentally Accountable Foodservice (LEAF) certification, and goes so far as to pillage their Beltline neighbour, Last Best Brewery, of spent grains to use in the bread. The Mountain View rotisserie chicken is not to be missed, whether stuffed into the chicken sandwich or ordered for take-out dinner. Boxwood is one of those gems that does the hard thinking for you, so that by the time you sit down hungry, you’re not warring with your stomach over sustainable, ethical, organic or local. At Boxwood, it’s all good. Boxwood, 340-13 Avenue SW

403.378.3800 | meatshop@spraggsmeatshop.com | www.spraggsmeatshop.com

CITYPALATE.ca MAY JUNE 2016

Regan Johnson

CROP YYC

Funny enough, Dani Smythe’s interest in urban and small-space growing goes back to her own, well, roots.

Naturally Clean ...

Smythe, born in Medicine Hat, opened Crop YYC with her horticulturist mom, Leigh Smythe, on Earth Day, April 22, 2015. The date was a coincidence, but it could not have been more apropos. Crop’s sunny storefront in Parkdale is perfectly adjacent to downtown, and carries everything one needs to get into interior gardening, even in the smallest of spaces. Smythe’s mission is to help city dwellers realize that growing their own food is not only possible, but increasingly accessible.

With youthful aspirations to becoming a chef and an academic background in journalism, it was years before Smythe connected her passion for sustainability with her mom’s years of experience in a greenhouse. In her childhood, Smythe says, “I had no interest in shrubs and perennials. If I could eat it, then I was interested in growing it!”

A T

D A L H O U S I E

403.286.5220

S T A T I O N

www.zestkitchenware.com

Smythe spent the summer, after graduating university, in South Korea where she discovered kimchi. Further travels took her to India, where she participated in a Rickshaw Run fundraiser for a clean water charity. Travel, she says, has made her appreciate the vast resources available to Canadians, and encourages her in her quest for a sustainable lifestyle. Upon returning to Canada, Smythe caught herself living a lifestyle that was “one foot in and one foot out” of the bounds of sustainable consumption, falling prey, as we all sometimes do, to what she calls the “trap of convenience.” Suspecting that there were other Calgarians likely in the same boat, Smythe conceived Crop as a venue to facilitate change. Now, Smythe is experimenting with zero-waste living, challenging herself to limit her production of landfill-bound waste, which means no styrofoam trays from the grocery store, no plastic bags for transport, and no plastic wrap at home. Instead, Smythe is an advocate of Abeego, a reusable beeswax-imbued wrap, which she sells in her store. “I’m not militant,” she laughs. “It’s a process; it’s something I have to work on every day.” For those who want to dip into urban growing, Smythe recommends starting small with microgreens and sprouts. Sprouting, especially, she says, requires only a minimum commitment and represents quick gratification, yielding a nutrient-dense product in only three to five days. For the more adventurous, Crop carries cabinets with built-in grow lights, a complete composting system suitable for apartment-dwellers, and multiple resources to help newbies get into fermenting, including the Kraut Source (a play on “crowdsource”) sauerkraut starter kit, which Smythe calls “gateway fermenting.” Smythe is dedicated to supporting Calgary-made and Canadian products, and the shelves are lined with familiar local labels, like Porter’s tonic syrups and Wild Prairie Botanicals lip balms. Crop offers classes to help new converts get started, and Smythe herself is always happy to troubleshoot with customers. “It’s about connecting with where your food comes from,” she says. At Crop, the seeds may cost, but the feeling of community is free. Crop YYC, 7 Parkdale Crescent NW Regan Johnson works at The Cookbook Co. Cooks

CITYPALATE.ca MAY JUNE 2016

one ingredient

Julie Van Rosendaal

ASPARAGUS

Among the first vegetables to announce the coming of spring, asparagus is perhaps the oddest of those first fresh bits of green to poke through newly thawed ground. Each stalk emerges as its own self – not as a cluster, nor on a larger crown – to be snapped off at its base when it comes time to harvest. It’s time-consuming, but, fortunately, asparagus grows quickly – under the best conditions, you can sit out in a field and almost watch it grow. At the peak of the season, Doug and Elna Edgar, of Edgar Farms near Innisfail, pass through the fields to harvest asparagus in the morning, and then again in the afternoon, the early stalks having grown several inches over lunchtime. Although it’s available year-round in warmer climates, our cool Alberta nights make for wonderfully sweet, snappy asparagus with purply tips. But the season is fleeting – as soon as the first bud makes its way through the dirt, asparagus fans must eat as much as they can handle until the harvest is called off for the year. Once it goes to seed, asparagus becomes the most unrecognizable of local edibles, transforming into a tall feathery fern, almost six feet in height and bearing little resemblance to its original self, unnaturally exotic-looking in Alberta fields and back yards.

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The biggest myth about asparagus must be dispelled: that thinner is better. Wide stalks are not an indicator of woodiness, and thicker stalks are often sweeter and snappier. You can tell if a stalk of asparagus is dry and woody by feeling where it naturally bends – only the bottom inch should want to snap off. As it dries out, that woodiness will crawl up the stalk, leaving less edible asparagus on top. Shop depending on your plans for it – thicker stalks are better for grilling, roasting and pickling; thinner have less structural integrity and can be tossed into any number of dishes. Both are good on their own. In the kitchen, asparagus can be steamed, roasted, grilled, stir-fried, whizzed into soup and tossed into pasta. (Try adding a handful of asparagus, cut into 1-inch lengths, into your pot of pasta during the last minute of cooking time, just enough to turn it a bright green and tender-crisp, then drain it all together.) When you get your bundle home, snap off the ends and stand them upright in a jar, glass or container of water in the fridge for up to a week.

The south of France in the spring. Tuscany, Italy in the fall.

Asparagus Velouté

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olive oil, for cooking

A velouté is an ultra-smooth, velvety soup – mild asparagus is a perfect base, accented with butter and cream. 2 T. butter 1 small onion, finely chopped salt 1 large bunch asparagus, trimmed and chopped 1 small potato, peeled and diced (optional) 1 small garlic clove, crushed 4 c. (1 L) chicken stock 1/4-1/2 c. heavy (whipping) cream

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In a large saucepan or small Dutch oven, heat a drizzle of oil along with the butter over medium-high heat. When the foam subsides add the onion and a big pinch of salt and sauté for 4-5 minutes, until soft. Add the asparagus, potato (if you’re using it) and garlic and cook for another minute, then add the stock and bring to a simmer. Reduce the heat and cook for 20-30 minutes, until the asparagus is very tender. Add the cream and purée with a hand-held immersion blender right in the pot, or carefully transfer to a blender in batches to purée until smooth, adding a splash of stock, cream or water if it seems too thick. Serve hot, at room temperature or cold. Serves 4-6.

Prosciutto-wrapped Asparagus & Queso Fresco Fresk-O cheese is a locally made semi-firm to firm fresh-pressed cheese that’s wonderful splinted to a stalk of asparagus with a thin slice of prosciutto, which then shrink-wraps the two together. These can be assembled ahead of time and finished quickly on the stovetop or grill. To fancy it up, drizzle with a little balsamic reduction. 1 bundle of thickish asparagus spears, ends trimmed 200 g. queso fresco (such as Fresk-O cheese, made in Alberta) thinly sliced prosciutto or serrano ham (one slice for each spear) olive or canola oil, for cooking balsamic reduction (optional)

Cut thin-ish slices of cheese, place against an asparagus stalk and wrap in a thin slice of prosciutto or serrano – cut the slices in half lengthwise – starting under the blossom end and wrapping the prosciutto down the length of the stalk, leaving each end exposed. Grill on a preheated grill or in a large skillet drizzled with oil and set over medium-high heat for 3-4 minutes, turning as necessary until the prosciutto is golden on all sides and tightly wrapped around the asparagus and cheese.

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(If the spears are large and you’d like them to steam a bit more, pour a couple of spoonfuls of water into the skillet and cover it; after a few minutes, uncover and continue cooking and turning until the excess moisture has cooked off completely.) Serve immediately with brunch, dinner, or as an appetizer, drizzled with balsamic reduction, if you like. Serves 8.

Steak & Asparagus Bibimbap A traditional rice bowl, bibimbap can be made up of any number of ingredients – but it’s always best with a fried egg on top. When it’s nice out, the beef and asparagus cook quickly on the grill, but it’s just as easy to stir-fry them on the stovetop. 1 lb. steak, very thinly sliced, or leftover roast beef or short ribs 1/4 c. soy sauce 2 T. sugar 2 T. sesame oil, divided 2 T. rice vinegar or lime juice 2 green onions, finely chopped 1-2 garlic cloves, crushed 1 t. grated fresh ginger 1 small bundle thick asparagus, ends snapped off a handful of cherry tomatoes 1 red, yellow or orange pepper, thickly sliced canola oil, for cooking 4 eggs (optional) steamed rice, for serving

recipe photos by Julie Van Rosendaal

Sriracha hot sauce, for serving In a medium bowl or heavy Ziploc bag, combine the steak, soy sauce, sugar, sesame oil, rice vinegar or lime juice, green onions, garlic and ginger. Let sit for at least 30 minutes, or a couple of hours, or freeze the meat in the mixture for future dinners. Preheat your grill to medium high and toss the veggies with a drizzle of the sesame oil. Lay them all out on the grill and turn as needed until just tender and char-marked. Lay the strips of marinated steak on the grill and cook them as well. If you like, place a small cast-iron skillet on the grill, add a drizzle of oil and fry an egg for each person. Divide steamed rice among 4 shallow bowls and top with the cooked meat, veggies and an egg. Pass the Sriracha. Serves 4.

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· 514 - 17 ave sw, Calgary, AB · livingroomrestaurant.ca · @livingroomyyc

continued on page 22

CITYPALATE.ca MAY JUNE 2016

1 ingredient ASPARAGUS continued from page 21

brazilian barbecue

Lemon-Parmesan Asparagus Risotto

authentic.

The way it should be.

Risotto is a classic vehicle for asparagus; a simple, springy dish with plenty of parm, brightened with lemon. To make a more substantial meal, add a handful of raw, tail-on shrimp to the pot along with the asparagus; cover and cook until they turn opaque. 2 T. each olive oil and butter 1 small onion, finely chopped 2 c. Arborio rice 1/2 c. dry white wine (optional) 6 c. chicken or vegetable stock, warmed

Experience the bold flavours and original taste of Churrasco, an authentic barbecue style made famous by Gauchos - the cowboys of South America.

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C A N MOR E

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1/2-1 c. freshly grated parmesan cheese zest and juice of 1 lemon 4-6 asparagus stalks, trimmed and cut into 1-inch lengths

In a medium-large pot, heat the oil and butter over medium-high heat and sauté the onion for 4-5 minutes, until soft. Add the rice and cook for a minute, stirring to coat the grains with buttery oil. If you’re using the wine, add it now and cook until it’s absorbed. Add about half a cup of stock at a time and cook, stirring, until it’s absorbed. Continue adding stock, stirring (it doesn’t have to be constantly, just frequently) until it absorbs the liquid. When it’s all used up, the grains should be soft. If they still have a crunchy core, add a little more water or stock. When the rice is cooked and it’s nice and creamy, stir in the cheese, lemon zest and juice, and the asparagus. Cover and cook for another 2-3 minutes, then stir and serve immediately, passing extra parmesan cheese and freshly ground black pepper. Serves 4-6. Julie Van Rosendaal is a cookbook author and blogs at dinnerwithjulie.com

CITYPALATE.ca MAY JUNE 2016

Good Food From Local Producers Treat yourself to a BBQ with the most delectable sausages

Old Country Sausage Shop

Fresh and delicious chemical-free vegetables, eggs and chickens. Weekly delivery to 4 Calgary locations. CSA shares and market sales. Family owned and operated. Community Supported

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All our products are FREE of: Binders / Fillers / Gluten / Sugar / Colouring And have NO added: MSG / Nitrites / Hormones / Antibiotics Our sausages are available at the following locations: Amaranth Whole Foods – Arbour Lake, Calgary Blush Lane Organic Markets – Calgary & Edmonton The Cookbook Co. Cooks – Calgary Community Natural Foods – Calgary Market 17 – Calgary Planet Organic – Calgary & Edmonton Springbank Cheese Company – Marda Loop, Calgary FOR DELIVERY DATES OF ON-LINE ORDERS PLEASE CALL 1 403 752 3006 OR VISIT OLDCOUNTRYSAUSAGES.COM.

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feeding people

Jaclyn Adomeit

BAD PAIRINGS

Uncomplementary food and wine pairings and how to avoid them.

Imagine you’re having a romantic candlelit dinner. You’ve ordered a bottle of California cabernet to pair with the tenderloin you have coming for the main attraction. But first, the appetizer – fresh-shucked oysters. Delicious. You take a swig of your chosen red to clear your palate, and you nearly spit it back into the glass. How in the name of a $60 bottle of wine did it taste like you were sucking on tin foil? Some matches aren’t made in heaven. Fishy minerality mixed with full-bodied red wine will amplify the worst flavours – iron and tannin. Everyone has go-to favourite wines, but when it’s time to decide what pairs up at dinner, with multiple guests, multiple palates, and multiple flavours, how do you choose? It’s good to keep the major food flavour groups in mind. Each group has its own wine-pairing faux pas, and its own delicious complementary wines.

SPICY: curry, hot peppers, horseradish, Sriracha Variety is the spice of life, and spice is a killer of many flavours. Heat annihilates flavours and dulls the palate. Spice can also double the power of alcohol in wine. Alcohol warms, and a 15% wine with a spicy dish can burn. There is one saviour for spicy foods – sweet. No need to go dessert wine sweet, but a mosel riesling, a sparkling asti spumante, or a vouvray all have enough residual sugar to balance the spice, as well as enough acid to prepare your palate for another hot bite. Sweeter gewürztraminer pairs well with spice; its heady florality is very pleasant against a spice-dominant background.

SALTY: fried calamari, prosciutto, pizza, tapenade, charcuterie Salt is an uncomplicated seasoning to pair. It magnifies other flavours, which makes it a culinary necessity. Salt also softens acidity and tannins. This makes it a great pairing tool for highly acidic reds and whites, but the downfall of hot-climate wines struggling for enough acid. Salty foods will also heighten the high alcohol of hot-climate wines. Why not try pinot gris from Alsace, a low alcohol wine with striking minerality. Sparkling white cava or sparkling red lambrusco are both on point for salty foods. An orange wine is another great choice (it’s a white wine crafted in the same method as red wines), since the tannin pulled from the white grape skins will be tamed by the salt. Sweet and salt are also great friends. Sauternes, and other botrytised wines, will happily pair with cured meats and pâté.

BITTER: kale, broccoli, citrus peel, dark chocolate (70% +) It’s an age-old lie that full-bodied, tannic red wines pair well with dark chocolate. The tannins in the red wine and the bitterness in the chocolate exacerbate each other, leaving you with too much of what you don’t want to taste on both ends. The same holds for bitter green vegetables. Bitter flavours dim sweetness and amplify tannin, acid, and alcohol. A bit of sweetness in the chosen wine will help carry bitter flavours across the palate. Kale and broccoli work well with an off-dry riesling. For dark chocolate try fortified wines like banyuls from France. Subtle herbaceous flavours in acid-forward whites like New World sauvignon blanc can also complement bitter green tastes.

CITYPALATE.ca MAY JUNE 2016

SOUR: lemon, sauerkraut, vinaigrettes, green apple Too much acid in food brings out the alcohol in wine. It can also leave low-acid wines feeling flabby on the palate. Just like pairing sweet with sweet, you want a wine with enough acid to stand a chance against the meal. You also want to keep your alcohol low. There are many cooler-climate regions of the world that produce wine with just these qualities. Try a cabernet franc from Touraine in the Loire Valley, a northern Italian barbera, or a Portuguese vinho verde.

FAT: steak, duck confit, cream sauce Fatty foods require either high tannin or high acid to cut through the grease. Fatty meats and rich sauces don’t work with sweet wines. Sugar will coagulate with fat and become cloying. Tannins and acid in wine cut through fat, leaving you ready to savour the next bite with a fresh palate. Cabernet sauvignon is the classic pairing for steak and marbled meats, but the options are vast and there’s no need to limit yourself. Try a syrah blend, a tempranillo from Rioja, or a Douro red from Portugal. For cream sauce and butter, dive into richness and acidity: albariño, viognier, grüner veltliner and crisp chardonnay. Fatty food is what wine was made for.

SWEET: chocolate, tarts, sweet potatoes with brown sugar, maple-glazed meat Sweet foods take over the palate and coat the taste buds with a glucose glaze. They also overwhelm the sweetness in most wines. Sugary foods will leave many red wines bitter and tannic, and many whites too acidic. In the sweetness scenario, the best strategy is an eye for an eye – pair sweet foods with sweet wines. Ice wine, moscato, tawny port, sauternes and tokaji are wines that allow you to have your cake, and drink with it, too.

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UMAMI: oysters, mushrooms, parmesan cheese, fish, soy This is the fabled fifth flavour group. In case you haven’t heard of it, umami is the secret name for the richness in foods, or, scientifically, glutamate. It puts the fish in fish sauce and the meatiness in Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese. Umami isn’t the culprit in fish that makes red wines taste like metal, but it amplifies sweetness and tannin, while it dims alcohol and acid. Opt for a low-tannin, fruit-forward red wine or an acidic white with sparkling minerality. Muscadet, crémant de bourgogne, or pinot blanc for whites, and gamay noir or cinsault for reds, will all do nicely. Everyone’s tastes are unique, and the best way to learn what pairs well for your palate is to try different combinations. Look at the guidelines, examine how flavours in food enhance or diminish flavours in wine, and boldly pair what no one has paired before. When in doubt, pull out a bottle of sparkling. It’s the best with oysters.

Jaclyn Adomeit’s first passion was wine making. She’s worked in vineyards, cellars, and restaurants. Currently, she’s a writer who daylights as an environmental engineer.

savourfinefoods.com

Great taste found here! Located in historic Inglewood 1331 - 9th Ave SE 403.532.8222

CITYPALATE.ca MAY JUNE 2016

well matched

asparagus

penne parmesan onion bacon eggs

Eat . Drink . Share

Asparagus Carbonara We have a spring-like version of the classic carbonara that is best served when local asparagus is in season.

1 lb. asparagus 4 slices thick bacon, cut into 1/4-inch strips 1 medium sweet yellow onion, chopped fine 1 T. olive oil

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sea salt 1 lb. dry penne pasta 4 large eggs, preferably free-range organic 3 oz. freshly grated parmesan freshly ground black pepper

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Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Trim the tough bottom ends from the asparagus and cut the spears diagonally into 1-inch segments. In a large sauté pan, cook the bacon until just slightly crispy. Transfer the bacon with a slotted spoon to a plate lined with paper towel, leaving the fat in the pan. Add the onion to the pan

and sauté over low heat until softened, about 5 minutes. Increase the heat to medium-high and continue to cook the onions until they’re golden brown. Transfer onions to a small bowl and set aside. Return the pan to medium-high heat and add the oil. A soon as the oil is hot, add the asparagus and season with salt, cooking until crisp-tender, about 3 minutes, then set aside. Cook the penne in the boiling water until al dente, about 8 to 10 minutes. While the pasta is cooking, whisk the eggs in a small bowl with 1/4 t. salt and stir in the parmesan. Drain the pasta and transfer it to a large serving bowl, then immediately add the egg/cheese mixture and toss well. Add the reserved asparagus, onion and bacon and toss again. Season with a generous amount of black pepper, toss and serve, garnishing with a little more parmesan. Serves 4-6.

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If you wanted to stay in the Italian vein you could do a white wine like Bucci’s verdicchio, but the sauvignon blanc/sémillon blend in the white Bordeaux works both with the richness of the carbonara egg and cheese sauce as well as the notoriously tricky components of the asparagus.

Geoff Last

MADE-IN-HEAVEN FOOD AND WINE PAIRINGS

lamb

red peppers potatoes sherry paprika parsley onion

CULINARY CONFIDENCE

Braised Lamb with Red Peppers and Potatoes This dish braises for a short time, which means the meat will not be falling apart. If you prefer it fork tender you can braise it for an extra hour but be sure to add the potatoes in the last half hour of cooking so they don’t break down completely, and make sure there is enough liquid to cover them. 1-1/2 lbs. boneless lamb, cut into 1” pieces (if you use shoulder, trim most of the excess fat) 1/2 c. unbleached white flour salt and pepper 1/4 c. olive oil 2 large red peppers, seeded and coarsely chopped 1 medium onion, cut in half and sliced thin 1-1/2 lbs. yellow flesh potatoes, peeled and cut into 1” cubes 1 t. hot paprika 1/2 t. smoked paprika salt and pepper to taste 1/4 c. dry sherry 2 bay leaves 2 T. chopped flat leaf parsley for garnish

Preheat oven to 375°F. Dust the lamb pieces with flour and season them with salt and pepper. Sauté the red peppers and onion in the oil until the onion softens and starts to become light gold in colour. Transfer the onions and

peppers to a Dutch oven with a slotted spoon. Add the lamb to the same pan the onion/pepper mixture was cooked in and brown the pieces for several minutes over medium-high heat, then add to the onion/pepper mixture. Add the potatoes to the sauté pan and season them with the paprika and salt and pepper. Cook them over fairly high heat for several minutes (you may need to add a little more oil to the pan) to achieve some colour, and then add the sherry. Continue cooking until most of the sherry is reduced, leaving a couple of tablespoons of liquid, stirring to deglaze the pan. Add the potatoes and any accumulated juices to the mixture in the Dutch oven and stir to incorporate all the ingredients. Add enough water to cover the potatoes, then cover and cook in the oven until the potatoes are tender, about a half hour. The liquid should now be a thick sauce but if it seems watery you can remove the meat and vegetables with a slotted spoon and reduce the sauce down on the stovetop. To serve, place in a large serving dish and sprinkle with parsley. Serves 4-6.

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Wine Pairing: Unculin Bierzo, 2014, $25 Lamb needs a gutsy red wine to keep it company and this unoaked red – produced from the indigenous mencia grape – is just the ticket. I love Spanish wines but one of my few complaints is the overuse of sweet American oak, obviously not the case here. There is a core of black cherries with some licorice and earth notes with bright acidity, all in all a fairly serious bottle of red for not too much money.

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CITYPALATE.ca MAY JUNE 2016

join us The Cookbook Co. Cooks welcomes

Julie Van Rosendaal to celebrate the launch of her new cookbook! OUT OF THE ORCHARD Recipes for Fresh Fruit from the Sunny Okanagan by Julie Van Rosendaal

Thursday, May 19th, 6:30 - 8 pm $35pp – includes a copy of the book, a glass of wine and delish, fresh recipes from the book.

THE COOKBOOK CO. COOKS 722 - 11th Ave SW, 403-265-6066, ext #1

Call now to register!

the sunday project

with Matthew Altizer

HALAWET EL JIBN

The world of Middle Eastern sweets is so much bigger than baklava and other filo-laden desserts. One of my all-time favourites is called halawet el jibn – which translates to cheese sweet. A sweet, rose water-infused pastry made from mozzarella cheese and semolina that is cut into sheets and rolled up with a MiddleEastern version of clotted cream and then topped with simple syrup and ground pistachios. Yes, it sounds quite strange to use mozzarella cheese in a dessert, but it really does give the pastry a beautiful texture. Clotted cream is available at most grocery stores, but if you can’t find it, mascarpone is a perfect substitute. We served these at One Yellow Rabbit Wine Stage and people were crazy for them – and intrigued… really mozzarella, really? Yes really. And really good. Halawet el Jibn (Sweet Cheese Rolls) For the syrup:

A brand-new collection of eighty-five contemporary recipes that celebrate tree fruit from the orchards of the Okanagan. This beautiful cookbook is a collection of the absolute best, triple-tested recipes for your annual bounty of Okanagan fruit. In addition to classic recipes for pies, cobblers, cakes, and preserves, Julie also shares less conventional recipes for fruit in salads, soups, and even main dishes.

1-1/2 c. sugar 1 t. lemon juice 2 t. orange blossom water 2 t. rose water

For the pastry: 1 lb. mozzarella cheese, grated 3/4 c. fine semolina scant 1/2 c. rose water 2 c. English Devon clotted cream or mascarpone

“This is definitely one of the best wine shops in town.” Tom Firth - Avenue Magazine, March 2016

1/4 c. finely ground pistachios 1/4 c. dried rose petals (optional)

To make the syrup, combine the sugar with 1 c. water in a small saucepan and stir over medium heat until the sugar dissolves. Bring to a boil, add the lemon juice and simmer over medium heat for 8 minutes or until the liquid thickens slightly. Stir in the orange blossom and rose waters and simmer for a few seconds more, then turn off the heat and set aside. Measure 1/3 c. of the syrup into a medium saucepan and heat over medium heat. When the syrup starts to boil, stir in the mozzarella cheese and stir vigorously with a wooden

spoon. When the cheese starts to melt, stir in the semolina and rose water. Continue stirring vigorously until all the cheese has melted and the dough starts to pull away from the sides of the pan and forms a ball. The next part is sticky – just resign yourself to this proposition, but it is easy to clean up. Brush a clean work surface liberally with the simple syrup and put the dough on top (or pour onto your counter and brush evenly). Moisten a rolling pin with syrup and roll the dough into a rectangle about 1/8-inch thick. Leave the dough to cool, then trim it into a large rectangle, then into smaller 3”x 5”rectangles. Place the clotted cream into a piping bag, cut a small hole in the bottom, pipe a lengthwise line of cream onto each rectangle and then fold one long side over the remaining pastry to form a roll. Repeat with the remaining pastry pieces and then cut each roll into 4 to 6 equal pieces, depending on how small you want to make them. Make sure to clean your knife between cuts so the clotted cream doesn’t smear. Transfer the pastries to a serving platter, brush or drizzle them lightly with some of the remaining syrup, then top them with a sprinkling of ground pistachios and a few lightly crushed rose petals, if desired. Makes at least 36 pieces.

Ingredients

CITYPALATE.ca MAY JUNE 2016

1. Sugar in pan

2. Add rosewater

3. Add orange blossom water

4. Add cheese

5. Add semolina

6. Roll out dough

7. Cut dough

8. Fill dough

9. Roll pastry

344 17 AVE SW | WWW.ANJU.CA | 403.460.3341 OPEN UNTIL 1 AM | 7 DAYS A WEEK

10. Crush pistachios

11. Finished, plated, and ready to eat

EAT | DRINK | LIVE

Matthew Altizer is a cooking instructor at The Cookbook Co. Cooks. Photos by Regan Johnson.

CITYPALATE.ca MAY JUNE 2016

2 DISHES, 3 SOMMELIERS, 4 JUDGES, 6 WINES 6 BEERS by Shelley Boettcher photos by Regan Johnson

They ate. They drank. They argued. (Well, not really.) They chose some pretty magical pairings. A group of sommeliers and food industry folks gathered on a sunny afternoon in February to take part in City Palate’s 11th annual Iron Sommelier challenge. Their goal? To find perfect pairings – both beer and wine – for two beautifully prepared dishes. Last year, we shook things up a bit by using beer, not wine, as the beverage for pairing. It was so much fun, we decided to do it again – and add wines to the mix, too. Technically, that means the name of the competition should be The Iron Sommelier/Cicerone Challenge. But that’s a bit awkward, and for a decade, the competition has been called The Iron Sommelier. Why mess with a good thing now?

THE WAY IT WORKS This year, the sommeliers had to match six beers and six wines with two dishes created by MADE Food’s executive chef Andrea Harling. Yes, three beers and three wines for the first course. And three beers and three wines for the second course. Then, four judges had to taste each dish with the selected beers and wines. Yes, a 12-drink lunch. The judges tried the beer and wine blind – they didn’t know the labels they were tasting. Once the booze was poured and the tasting started, sommeliers and judges were kept apart, so the sommeliers couldn’t influence the judges’ opinions. Finally, as a group, the judges had to choose one beer and one wine that they felt paired best with each dish. Along the way, they shared their thoughts on each pairing.

OUR CHEF AND HER DISHES ANDREA HARLING and MADE Foods’ sous chef RYAN LUMSDEN made a spring burrata salad (local burrata from White Gold Cheese), radishes, peas, shallots, fresh herbs, toasted brioche croutons and a lemon, balsamic and cold-pressed canola oil vinaigrette for the first course. The second course was a herb-marinated seared lamb loin (from Lambtastic Farms), on a bed of couscous, with charred tomatoes, chimichurri, pickled red onions, cucumber raita and a parsley salad. (Totally delish dishes!)

CITYPALATE.ca MAY JUNE 2016

OUR JUDGES:(L-R) JOSH STODDART co-owner, Full Circle Pizza and Oyster Bar MARGIE GIBB owner, Caffè Beano PHILIP WONG general manager, Bite Groceteria PATRICK HILL co-owner/partner, The Living Room, The Mission, Blanco Cantina, Añejo Restaurant More about them on page 32!

OUR SOMMELIERS AND THEIR BEERS AND WINES

LUIS ELIAS OBREGON, sales associate, Bin 905 and certified chef/ culinary instructor, The Cookbook Co. Cooks SALAD AND BEER PAIRING: Hitachino Nest White Ale (Japan, $10)

DEVAN DECKSHEIMER, sales director, Richmond Hill Wines SALAD AND BEER PAIRING: Vedett Extra White (Belgium, about $12 for a four-pack) “The key to this pairing was tying the bitter and acidic components of the salad with the creaminess of the cheese. I wanted to choose a beer with high acidity and slightly lower alcohol, and the Vedett has a fruity enough component on the palate that I felt it was a perfect pairing.” SALAD AND WINE PAIRING: CVNE Viña Real 2014 Rosado (Rioja, Spain, $19) “This wine has a high acidity and a round texture on the palate that I felt would balance the creaminess of the burrata and the salad’s fresh components.” LAMB AND BEER PAIRING: Chimay Red Cap Belgian Abbey Dubbel (Belgium, about $6.50) “I chose this because I felt it had a good balance of sweetness and acidity, which would showcase the elegance of the dish.” LAMB AND WINE PAIRING: Jean-Marc Burgaud 2013 Côte du Py Réserve (Morgon, Beaujolais, France, $35) “The components of the dish were acidic (tomato/ pickled onion), creamy (raita) and earthy (fresh parsley, chimichurri marinade). I went with a wine that has a softer tannin structure, and an earthy aromatic profile that highlights the complexities of the dish.”

“Its mellow sweetness will interact nicely with the peas, while the coriander and orange notes will pair well with the radishes. Its crispness will go hand-in-hand with the lemon vinaigrette, while the creaminess of the beer will accompany the crumbled brioche.” SALAD AND WINE PAIRING: Selbach-Oster 2011 Riesling Brut (Mosel Valley, Germany, $35) “Riesling is probably the most versatile grape in the world when it comes to pairing with food. The high acidity will pair with the vinaigrette. The second fermentation and slightly yeasty notes will complement the brioche. Its peppery and creamy finish are a great accompaniment for the radishes and the burrata.” LAMB AND BEER PAIRING: 8 Wired Grand Cru (New Zealand, $12) “I chose this beer because of its style and well-integrated sour notes. It’s full of aromas like balsamic vinegar, menthol, mushrooms and a slight caramel note. Full-bodied, with an elegant acidity that would pair beautifully with the pickled shallots, the charred tomatoes and the chimichurri. The herbal notes would enhance the flavour of the lamb without overpowering it. It’s also delicate enough that the couscous will shine through, complemented by the freshness of the cucumber-mint sauce.” LAMB AND WINE PAIRING: Raul Perez 2011 Ultreia St. Jacques (Bierzo, Spain, $38) “I picked this wine because of its elegant perfume of mixed red fruits and pine trees, with a slight earth component. The earth and herbal notes interact with the delicacy of the couscous and the charred tomatoes, while its smoky tannin is a great accompaniment for the lamb. The freshness of this wine showcases the raita, making it a very fun pairing for this dish.”

MICHAEL COZAK, general manager, The Cellar SALAD AND BEER PAIRING: Evil Twin Brewing Femme Fatale Sudachi IPA (South Carolina, USA, about $17) “I felt that the bitterness of hops of this IPA would complement and contrast with the radishes and peas in the salad, while the sudachi fruit adds quite a bit of zest and acidity to pair with the vinaigrette while helping to keep the palate clean from the richness of the burrata.” SALAD AND WINE PAIRING: Elio Grasso 2013 “Educato” Langhe Chardonnay (Piedmont, Italy, about $40) “I thought that the tropical fruit and pear notes of this barrelfermented and aged chardonnay would pair well with the burratta and the brioche, while the wine’s core of bright acidity would complement the vinaigrette.” LAMB AND BEER PAIRING: Unibroue, La Résolution (Quebec, Canada, about $15) “I always think of lamb dishes as big, hearty and great for fall and winter meals. But this dish, with the chimichurri-marinated lamb, was definitely not heavy. I decided I wanted to pick a beer that was big on flavour but could also pick up on the spices of the lamb and cucumber raita without being overbearing.” LAMB AND WINE PAIRING: Borgogno 2011 “No Name” Langhe Nebbiolo (Piedmont, Italy, about $40) “The lamb was a complicated dish. There were so many different flavour components, which made it difficult for me to come up with a suitable pairing. In the end, I felt that the Borgogno “No Name” Nebbiolo, with its cherry and spice notes, firm tannins and great acidity, would work best.” continued on page 32 CITYPALATE.ca MAY JUNE 2016

FROM L-R: JOSH STODDART (JS) PHILIP WONG (PW) MARGIE GIBB (MG) PATRICK HILL (PH)

WHAT THE JUDGES THOUGHT

continued from page 31

LAMB COURSE:

SALAD COURSE

BEER:

Chimay Red Cap Belgian Abbey Dubbel JS: “A beer like this would be fantastic with a richer lamb dish.” PW: “It does pick up on the nuttiness of the couscous, but the floral essence of the beer doesn’t work with the dish.” MG: “Just not in alignment with the flavours.” PH: “It has a nuttiness to it that’s getting lost in the citrusy notes of the dish and the chimichurri.”

Vedett JS: “It has the right balance of sweetness and alcohol. Cleanses the palate.” PW: “It’s pretty tasty, refreshing, nice aromatics.” MG: “A very good beer to pair with salad.” PH: “It’s a natural fit, very floral and very light.”

8 Wired Grand Cru JS: “This is great. Really cool.” PW: “There’s an herbal flavour here. I find it too heavy for the dish. Memories of Jagermeister come to mind.” MG: “Medicinal. This might not be the kind of beer you pair things with. It might be the kind of beer you just drink.” PH: “There’s a cherry component here. It’s a bit dusty.”

Hitachino Nest White Ale JS: “Very middle-of-the-road. It works but it’s not worth writing home about.” PW: “It’s a neat beer, but it’s a very neutral combination for me.” MG: “It doesn’t enhance the flavours of the salad. It just doesn’t have that zing that you find in a great pairing.” PH: “There’s a certain stink to it. Aromatically, I think this beer is too strong for the dish. It overpowers the salad.”

Unibroue, La Résolution JS: “My favourite pairing. But my favourite beer was the 8 Wired.” PW: “Root beer! Sarsaparilla! I want this with vanilla ice cream.” MG: “Wow. Sweet and bitter, but not overwhelming.” PH: “This is quite something. A really smooth finish, some smokiness going on. I really like it.”

WINE: Jean-Marc Burgaud 2013 Côte du Py Réserve JS: “There’s not quite enough to hold up to the lamb, but the low tannins do work well with the rest of the dish.” PW: “I think the construction of the dish was too much for this pairing.” MG: “This dish has a wonderful assortment of flavours, and it needs something more complex than this wine. But it is one of my favourite styles of wine.” PH: “I appreciate the light body of this wine; there’s some earthiness there, and good structure. I thought it might get lost but it’s holding up to the lamb.” Raul Perez 2011 Ultreia St. Jacques JS: “This is my pick for the wine. It does well with everything on the plate.” PW: “It has a nice, mellow cherry note to it, which is nice. It goes well with the pickled onions. My favourite.” MG: “It has a real fruity, sweet component that is a nice balance with everything else.” PH: “I like the New World style. It has a richness and a plumminess to it, and good tannic structure without being in your face. It’s holding up to the lamb, without overpowering it.” Borgogno 2011 “No Name” Langhe Nebbiolo JS: “This is a phenomenal wine, a fantastic wine. I would just drink it straight up, with the lamb, only the lamb. I think it does better with the lamb than any of the rest of the wines, but the raita kills it.” PW: “The raita cuts through the tannins, but I’m not getting the aromas of the wine.” MG: “It doesn’t quite work; there are just so many flavours going on in this dish.” PH: “It’s a bit too big for this dish. Too rich and tannic.”

Evil Twin Brewing Femme Fatale Sudachi IPA JS: “The salad actually cleanses your palate from the beer.” PW: “A hoppy beer. I’m not usually too excited about that, but this really works for me.” MG: “A bit on the bitter side.” PH: “Nerd beer! The bitterness of the beer and the dish – it’s a weird combination for me.”

WINE: CVNE Viña Real 2014 Rosado JS: “It works quite nicely with the creaminess of the cheese and with the onions.” PW: “A really nice freshness, especially with the peas. My favourite of the three.” MG: “On the light side, but not a bad pairing at all.” PH: “It really came alive with the pesto and the onions. I was pleasantly surprised.” Selbach Oster 2011 Riesling Brut JS: “It works on all levels. The crispness and the acidity help it pair with the cheese.” PW: “A really nice pairing with the cheese.” MG: “I love the fizz to it. A great pairing.” PH: “That is right in my wheelhouse. That petrol nose, that diesel note. It’s amazing and I’m pleasantly surprised that it’s a sparkling wine.” Elio Grasso 2013 “Educato” Langhe Chardonnay JS: “It doesn’t cleanse the palate as much as I would like. But it works with the peas.” PW: “Not the best pairing. A bit too neutral with the dish.” MG: “I’m finding the wine a little acidic. It’s not standing up to the salad. Not my first choice.” PH: “I really like the floral notes of the wine but I think the cheese overpowered it.” continued on page 34

CITYPALATE.ca MAY JUNE 2016

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THE RECIPES

continued from page 32

Spring Burrata Salad

Seared Lamb Loin

Butter lettuce, burrata, peas, radishes, shallots, herbs, torn brioche, lemon vinaigrette, balsamic reduction. Serves 4.

Couscous, charred tomatoes, chimichurri, pickled red onions, cucumber raita, parsley salad. Serves 4.

Lemon vinaigrette:

Seared lamb loin:

2 lemons, juiced

1-3/4 lbs. lamb loin, boned and trimmed of fat

1/4 c. champagne vinegar

1 T. cold-pressed canola oil

2 t. honey

2 stems each thyme and rosemary

1 t. salt

2 garlic cloves, crushed

1/4 t. black pepper

salt and cracked black pepper

1 c. olive oil

1 c. balsamic vinegar

Place the cleaned lamb loin in a dish and mix with canola oil, herbs and garlic. Marinate overnight. When ready to cook, remove from marinade and pat dry. Season with salt and cracked black pepper. In a hot pan, sear all sides of the lamb loin and place in a 350°F. preheated oven for 5 minutes. Remove from pan, cover with foil and let rest for 5 minutes. Once rested, slice and keep warm.

1/4 c. honey

In a medium bowl, combine lemon juice, vinegar, honey, salt and pepper. Whisk until well combined and the salt has dissolved. Slowly add oil, while continually whisking. Taste and adjust seasoning if necessary.

Stir couscous into the boiling stock and bring it back to a boil. Cover and remove the pot from the heat. Let stand for 5 minutes, then fluff with a fork. Heat a large frying pan, add the olive oil, then the cherry tomatoes. Blister the tomatoes, then add the garlic and cook for 30 seconds. Add the lemon juice, fluffed couscous, parsley, salt and pepper. Mix well. Remove from heat and cover.

Pickled red onions:

Chimichurri:

1 small dried chile

1/2 c. red wine vinegar

Dice the onion as small as you can. Place all the remaining ingredients in a pot and bring to a boil. Add the onion to the pot, remove from the heat and cover. After 30 minutes, the onions will be ready. Place in a container with the pickling liquid and reserve until ready to use.

1 t. salt 3 garlic cloves, minced 1 shallot, minced 1/2 red jalapeño chile, minced

1 medium red onion, about 5 oz. 1/2 t. each salt and sugar 3/4 c. champagne vinegar 1 small garlic clove, smashed 5 black peppercorns 2 small thyme sprigs

1/2 c. cilantro, chopped

Cucumber raita:

1/4 c. parsley, flat leaf, chopped

1/2 c. plain yogurt

1/4 c. oregano, chopped

1/4 c. honey

Couscous:

3/4 c. olive oil

1/2 c. seeded and diced cucumber

Place the vinegar and honey in a pot, bring to a boil, reduce to a simmer and reduce by half. Once it is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon, it is finished. Remove from heat, let cool. Reserve until ready to plate.

1 c. couscous

1/2 t. pepper

2 T. diced green onion

1 c. boiling stock (chicken or vegetable)

2 T. chopped cilantro

Torn brioche:

1 garlic clove, minced

Mix the vinegar, salt, garlic, shallot and chile in a medium bowl. Let the mixture sit for 10 minutes, then mix in the herbs, oil and pepper and reserve until ready to use.

1/4 loaf brioche, torn into pieces (found at any good bakery)

1/2 lemon, juice only

1/2 lb. butter

pinch of salt and black pepper

Balsamic reduction:

Melt the butter in a frying pan, then add the brioche and toast until golden brown. Reserve until ready to plate. Salad ingredients: 2 pieces burrata cheese, quartered (White Gold at specialty food and Italian stores) 4 T. cold-pressed canola oil 1/4 c. radishes 1/4 c. shallots, minced 1/2 c. peas, blanched 1/4 c. parsley, chopped

To plate: Place butter lettuce in the centre of the plate, making a little nest for the burrata to sit in. Using half a portion per person, place the burrata in the middle of the butter lettuce and sprinkle each piece of buratta with salt, pepper and cold-pressed canola oil. Mix the radishes, shallots, peas and parsley together in a bowl and top with 2 T. of the lemon vinaigrette. Mix well, then place on top of the burrata. Garnish with a drizzle of the balsamic reduction. Top with pieces of the brioche.

3 T. olive oil 1/2 c. halved cherry tomatoes

1/4 c. fresh parsley, chopped

1/2 lemon, juice and zest 1/4 t. ground cumin pinch each of salt and pepper

Mix all ingredients in a bowl and reserve until ready to use. Parsley salad: 1/4 c. parsley leaves, no stems drizzle of cold-pressed canola oil 1/2 lemon, zest and juice pinch each of salt and black pepper

Just before plating the food, place all ingredients in a small bowl and mix until well combined. How to plate: Place the cucumber raita on the plates. Top with couscous. Place the sliced lamb loin on top of the couscous. Drizzle the lamb with chimichurri, pickled red onions and parsley salad. Serve immediately. ✤

AND THE WINNERS ARE... With the SALAD, the winning beer was the Vedett; the winning wine was the Selbach Oster 2011 Riesling Brut. With the LAMB, the winning beer was La Résolution from Unibroue; the winning wine was the Raul Perez 2011 Ultreia St. Jacques.

CITYPALATE.ca MAY JUNE 2016

Shelley Boettcher is a local wine, food and travel writer. Find her on Twitter @shelley_wine or drinkwithme.com

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CITYPALATE.ca MAY JUNE 2016

Down ‘n’ Dirty With an

Black Hills' president, former Calgarian Glenn Fawcett

Okanagan Winemaker Tasting at Black Hills Wine Experience Centre

by Kate Zimmerman

Jesse Cooper in the barrel room at Black Hills

Lunch at Black Hills: roasted peach, farmer cheese and prosciutto

It may look bucolic, but Okanagan winemaking’s no day at the beach. When you’re invited to experience a day in the life of a winemaker, why not go for the gusto? The Black Hills Estate Winery near Oliver, B.C., has 50 acres of sunny, sandy, southwest-facing terroir on the 6,000-acre Black Sage Bench – which, with more than 70 wineries on it, is home to Canada’s largest contiguous vineyard. Black Hills produces several delicious wines, including one of Western Canada’s most coveted – Nota Bene, Latin for “take note.” A Bordeaux blend, Nota Bene combines merlot, cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc in a smooth, rich wine that’s wagged connoisseurs’ tongues for years. Black Hills’ assistant winemaker Jesse Cooper says Nota Bene is “like a velvet glove.” Winery president Glenn Fawcett calls it a “cult classic.” A thousand people on the winery’s mailing list have bought a case a year for 10-15 years. Black Hills was established in 2000 by two couples, who sold it in 2007 to a limited liability ownership spearheaded by Fawcett. Since then, it’s grown from producing 5,000 cases and generating $1.3 million in sales annually to 12,000 cases and $4.2 million in sales in 2014. Some 456 financial backers can legitimately swan around claiming to own Black Hills, but it’s a smaller group – including Steve Carberry, who grows the winery’s grapes on its Sharp Rock and Double Black vineyards, and head winemaker Graham Pierce – that actually makes its tasty reds and whites, with the team’s numbers swelling at harvest. Assistant winemaker Cooper, who showed me around last July, is a key player. He hails, unexpectedly, from Newfoundland and Nova Scotia, provinces known better for their boisterous rum consumption than they are for coddling fine vintages. Cooper, then a political scientist, found his avocation when he went to France to study the language and became entranced by the Rhone Valley village of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. “Once I saw that lifestyle, I realized that being a bureaucrat was not as rewarding as being in the wine industry,” he says. While visionary head winemaker Pierce oversees the process, his duties also include travelling around promoting Black Hills. Cooper remains on-site, ensuring that every-

CITYPALATE.ca MAY JUNE 2016

thing goes smoothly as the precious juice makes the transition “from grape to glass.” Unglamorously, he confides that 60 percent of winemaking is housekeeping. “You’re cleaning the tanks. You’re running cycles of cleaning through hoses. Barrels get cleaned,” he explains, roping me into rinsing an enormous tank. For his job, meticulousness and attention to detail are essential personality traits. Cooper also needs to anticipate the next set of tasks as Black Hills’ product travels through the winemaking process. The job requires logistical thinking about such challenges as ordering equipment from Europe to be delivered to the Port of Los Angeles, driven by semi- to the Canadian border, then broken down into components so smaller trucks can get it to the Okanagan promptly. The potential for nightmarish logistical cock-ups aside, summers here are idyllic. June through August, Black Hills gets more sunlight hours than the Napa Valley, plenty of daytime heat and cool nights. The Okanagan’s well water provides ample irrigation. Since the Black Sage Bench is situated in a windy valley, after it rains, a wind comes through and dries the grapes, preventing molds and fungi from settling in. You feel Cooper’s love of the place as he tromps around the vineyard pointing out varietals. Autumn, of course, is the busiest time at any Okanagan winery. There’s the daily tasting and lab analysis of the grapes, in search of the ideal balance of acid, PH and sugar, and the constant weather watch for upcoming cold snaps, windstorms or rain. “The art is to adapt to whatever Mother Nature throws your way,” says Fawcett. When the time seems right to pick certain grapes, winegrower Carberry lines up the pickers and the raw materials they’ll need. Cooper runs the crush pad, working with a team of grape sorters and juice pumpers as Pierce analyzes the “berry” samples, then makes decisions. “Do we want to make that tank really cold for a while? Do we want to just kind-of let (the juice) soak before fermenting? Do we want to go and work with the yeast right away and start it quick?” Cooper muses, channeling Pierce. “It’s a combination of quality decisions and also logistical decisions. You’re constantly playing chess.”

Full circle Pizza & Oyster Bar

933 17 Ave SW • fullcirclepizza.ca

buck-a-shuck oysters $1 oysters every night 9 pm - close, Sunday-thursday 11 pm - close, friday & saturday

Black Hills country

The winery has only so many tanks to hold so much juice, so for a solid two months, the tanks are flipped, cleaned and cycled as each batch is moved into barrels. “It’s basically two different rhythms and you have to weld them together,” Cooper explains. “You’ve got the growing-grape-vineyard-agriculture thing, and then you’ve got the winemaking- indoor-sciencey-barrel stuff.” The “barrel stuff” has its pitfalls, which can include varietals falling out of favour with consumers. Fawcett says that no matter the sudden wine trend, Black Hills can’t afford to cater to it, because changing any grape type is a three-year commitment. Switching things up is easier for wineries that don’t grow their own fruit – they can simply buy different grapes. Nevertheless, no business likes to get stale. Black Hills didn’t grow Syrah when Fawcett’s group acquired it. It does now, and its 2013 Syrah was described as “spectacular” and “luxurious” by reviewer Natalie MacLean. “We found a little of our stylistic direction, taking full advantage of the ripeness of the fruit from that area, as opposed to toning it down to create a more nuanced flavour profile,” Fawcett says. Another potential threat to a winery’s bottom line is pests. Robins and starlings are the worst – a murmuration (flock) of starlings can darken skies and pick vineyards clean in an hour or two. Black Sage Bench wineries use a combination of wind machines and propane “guns” to discourage them from settling. Fawcett describes a compelling soundscape based on the noises of harvest, from the boom of the bangers to the whir of the wind machines, the reggae emanating from the Jamaican grape pickers’ vehicle and the techno music favoured by the grape sorters. “That’s the excitement of the crush,” he says. “You have this six-week period of time where it’s energy, energy, energy.” ✤ Kate Zimmerman thinks the roasted local peach with farmer cheese and prosciutto at Black Hills Wine Experience Centre is one of Canada’s great lunches. CITYPALATE.ca MAY JUNE 2016

Exploring Wine C Exploring Wine Country by Motorcycle

WINERIES ARE MUCH MORE TANGIBLE ON TWO WHEELS by Geoff Last

When I was about 20 years old, I purchased my first vehicle, my roommate’s Honda 550 Super Sport motorcycle. I taught myself to ride in the alley behind our rented townhouse. Once I had the confidence to hit the open road, I was hooked. If you’ve never ridden a motorbike, I can only say that you’re missing out on an exhilarating rush and a sense of freedom that’s unmatched as far as the driving experience goes. I rode for another seven or eight years before I started to feel like I was living on borrowed time and finally quit riding. Motorcycles have come a long way since then. These days almost any bike over about 600 cubic centimetres (cc) is faster than the most exotic supercar money can buy, and many are equipped with features like antilock brakes, GPS, anti-wheelie control, tire pressure monitors and a host of other features designed to make them as safe as possible while upping the performance abilities of the machine and rider. That being said, you may want to register as an organ donor before you take your first ride – they can be dangerous, although probably no more so than skiing or mountain biking. Over the past 20 years, I’ve explored the great wine regions of the world by car, bus, helicopter, plane and, on occasion, bicycle. A couple of years ago, some friends invited me to join them touring the vineyards and wineries of California’s south central coast area by motorcycle. I decided to throw caution to the wind and join them, so we flew into Los Angeles and headed to a shop called Racy Rentals, where a trio of bikes – a Triumph, BMW and Ducati – were waiting for us. After renting the appropriate gear – boots, pants, jacket, gloves, helmet – and orienting ourselves to the features of the machines, we drove into L.A. traffic – a daunting endeavour, considering it had been about 25 years since my last motorcycle ride – and headed up California’s coastal highway to Santa Barbara.

CITYPALATE.ca MAY JUNE 2016

As it turned out, the old adage that says “Once you learn how to ride a bike, you never forget” is true of motorcycles as well. The only thing that took some getting used to was the amount of power and handling abilities of today’s superbikes. Once we were clear of traffic, the pure thrill of flying along the curves of the Pacific Coast Highway with its spectacular ocean vistas took over. We spent three days on the bikes visiting wineries (being careful to spit virtually every drop of wine tasted). Highlights included a visit to Alban Vineyards and Donelan Family Wines. John Alban produces what are arguably the finest examples of Rhône varietals in California, although the wines we tasted at Donelan were every bit as good. On the return leg, we wrapped up the trip with a ride from the Santa Monica coast road back into L.A. via the Mulholland Highway, long considered one of the best drivers’ roads in America. Should you find yourself on this stretch of road be sure to stop at the Rock Store, a greasy spoon/pub that’s made out of volcanic rock. There are dozens of riders and bikes there at any given time. Have a burger and a beer and admire the many exotic rides parked out front. Fast forward to the spring of 2015, when the same “gang” flew into San Francisco and straight to Dubbelju Motorcycle Rentals. My ride this time was Ducati’s superb Multistrada, a 1200 cc superbike that can test the limits of the most experienced riders. The destination was Sonoma, a wine region that I’ve toured numerous times over the years but one I never tire of visiting. I’ve always felt at home when I’m in a vineyard – grapevines have, after all, provided me with a livelihood for the past 30 years. Over the course of that time, most of the vistas were seen through the murky windows of a car or bus. On a motorcycle, the experience becomes much more tangible. You become acutely aware of the life force of the vineyards and the surrounding environment. While the Sonoma terrain was familiar, the experience of seeing it from a bike made it feel exciting and new. Add to that the sensation of straddling 1200 cc of growling red machine that goes from 0-100 in about three seconds flat. It’s a thrill!

One of the highlights was climbing a 2,000 ft. elevation up a crazy road of hairpin turns to get to Manchester Ridge, perched high above Sonoma’s Anderson Valley. There’s a spectacular pinot noir vineyard up there that overlooks the Pacific Ocean – it was a ride and a view I won’t soon forget. Another highlight was a visit to Anaba winery in Sonoma. It has a nice tasting room and is well worth visiting should you find yourself in the Sonoma region.

Most bike shops rent all the gear but it’s best to book your size when you book your bike rental, since sizes are limited. A good shop – such as Dubbelju in San Francisco – carries a large array of bikes, from scooters to Harleys to Italian, Japanese and German superbikes. Something fancy – like Ducati’s Multistrada – will run you $200 U.S. a day. Be sure to rent a bike that will accommodate paniers; I was able to get a week’s worth of clothing and gear into the two rear paniers (saddle bags), but not all models will accommodate them. Basically, you show up at the shop and transfer your stuff from a suitcase into the paniers and check your empty bag there.

Country by Motorcycle One of the great things about riding in California is that there are lots of bikes on the road since you can easily ride year-round. This means that car drivers are naturally more aware of bikes and bikes get more respect than they do in Calgary. For example, lane-splitting – driving in between lanes of slow-moving cars – is permitted in California, which takes some of the pain out of L.A. traffic. Since it never seems to rain there anymore, rain gear is seldom needed. But should it rain, you’ll be glad you have it. The same is true of protective gear. The modern stuff incorporates Kevlar panels into the pants and jackets and this stuff will save your hide should you go down. Pro riders regularly come off their bikes going more than 150 km an hour and walk away, thanks largely to the gear (knowing how to roll with it doesn’t hurt, either).

Assuming you have a motorcycle licence and are okay with a certain amount of personal risk (if ever there’s a time to load up on travel insurance before travelling, this is it), this is the way to see wine country. Sonoma and neighbouring Napa have a plethora of great driving roads, most of which are in perfect shape because they don’t have to deal with winter. SAIT and numerous other organizations offer motorcycle courses here in Calgary, and the road test is fairly straightforward (no parallel parking to worry about). And once you have your licence you have it forever.

Cheers! ✤

Geoff Last is manager of Bin 905.

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TO YOUR COLLECTION!

Lunch, Dinner, Weekend Brunch

403-261-7670 river-cafe.com

Willow Park Village 10816 Macleod Trail South | 403.278.1220

www.compleatcook.ca

CITYPALATE.ca MAY JUNE 2016

EXPERIENCE EXTREME WINE, A Provençal ESCAPE

by Carolyne Kauser-Abbott

WELCOME TO WINE BOOT CAMP Long before the existence of social media, the seven popes who directed the Catholic Church’s activities from Avignon (1309-77) appreciated that the terroir of the southern Rhône was ripe for grapevines. During the Middle Ages, local monks survived off the scrubland and cultivated grapes under Provence’s sunny skies. However, it was Twitter that led me to the site of an ancient priory, a place with row upon row of budding grenache and syrah vines. Surfing the Internet, I stumbled across @ExtremeWineCB, a “handle” that I felt compelled to follow. Not satisfied with Twitter’s 140-character limitations, I made contact with Karen Glennon, the Executive Director of Chêne Bleu’s Extreme Wine, to understand more about its program in Provence. La Verrière is located three kilometres from the hilltop hamlet of Crestet, on the northern edge of Provence, at the crossroads of several Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC or AC) wine regions. The Rolet family purchased the property in 1993 and, after an extensive renovation and construction project, unveiled their first Chêne Bleu wines (vintage 2006) to the market in 2009. The team is focused on “Super Rhône wines made to organic and biodynamic principles.” When you meet Nicole Rolet, you quickly recognize her deep understanding of the industry, a knowledge base that she has gained over the last 15 years. Rolet moved from investment finance and political science in New York City to London with her husband, and began a crash course to improve her understanding of the wine business. She rapidly determined that the classroom-based certification courses offered in London and San Francisco left gaps in her wine-industry comprehension. Not satisfied with the status quo, she worked with Clive Barlow, a Master of Wine in London, to develop a curriculum that complements the Wine Spirits and Education Trust (WSET) syllabus. The Chêne Bleu Extreme Wine experience, now in its ninth year, gives students a hands-on understanding of the wine business.

WHAT IS EXTREME WINE? The course at La Verrière is an intensive five-day immersion into wines of the world, a thoughtful approach to tasting wine and the art of pairing with food. Students also gain a hands-on appreciation for essential vineyard activities. What sets the Extreme Wine experience apart from the WSET certification, that you can take at most community colleges, is the holistic approach to the subject. In the high-tech conference room, Barlow and his fellow instructor, Nick Dumergue, walk students through the growing regions, grape types, various wine-making processes and spirits production. After a morning session of PowerPoint slides and wine tasting, the group assembles for an al fresco working lunch in the shade of a Linden tree to test their food and wine pairing skills. The onsite chef team – a talented duo – prepares all meals for the week, rising to the daily challenge of pairing four-course dinners with that day’s wine focus. Speaking on behalf of my fellow students and myself, I think we might have been prepared for the intense theory and wine tasting, but we weren’t prepared to be served meals worthy of Michelin stars alongside some of the top global wines. We were fast learners, however. After the welcome dinner that included heirloom tomatoes stuffed with vegetable tartare, a six-hour lamb shoulder made with meat from the local shepherd, a cheese course and then a strawberry-filled almond crust with crème anglaise, we all knew that we would leave La Verrière feeling slightly snugger in our jeans. La Verrière is the name of the property that includes the 35-hectare Chêne Bleu vineyard and contemporary wine-making facility. Extreme Wine attendees stay at the vineyard – practically a hamlet – where the main building can sleep 18 in five-star accommodations. The restoration and construction work of La Verrière took almost a full decade. The Rolet family is highly respectful of the site and its history as a medieval 9th-century priory, and as a glass production facility (1427) – hence, the name La Verrière. Today, more than 20 years after purchasing a ruin at the top of a 550 m hill, the Chêne Bleu team welcomes students, corporate teams, private families and exclusive tour groups to enjoy a glass of wine with an uninterrupted view of Mont Ventoux. continued on page 42

CITYPALATE.ca MAY JUNE 2016

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Seize the Rockies

Capture a landscape. Or be absorbed by one. Hike, bike, canoe or stay in and pursue new extremes of comfort. Our rustic mountain lodges energize the body and settle the soul.

Elev. 1692 m Tunnel Mountain Trail Trailhead is a 23 minute walk from Buffalo Mountain Lodge.

crmr.com CITYPALATE.ca MAY JUNE 2016

Fresh Produce

Antipasti

In-store Bakery

EXPERIENCE EXTREME WINE, A Provençal ESCAPE

continued from page 40

Specialty Foods Olive Oils Balsamics Catering Chateau la Nerthe Lunch

Initially, I was reluctant to enrol in Chêne Bleu’s wine course, as I rated my personal wine expertise only slightly better than basic. The WSET programs are offered in Calgary – would I come away from Crestet any more enlightened? The value for money proposition offered at La Verrière, and the full extent of the program, was not evident to me at the outset.

Olives Deli Meats &Cheeses Gift Baskets

Hot &Cold Lunches

Cappuccino Dessert Bar

Looking back, I should never have hesitated. The Chêne Bleu Extreme Wine experience is a chance to appreciate the voyage of a grape, from the vine to the bottle to the hands of the consumer. Our group came together from India, Peru, the United States and Canada with wine knowledge that ranged from rudimentary to the presumed expertise of a winery owner and the publisher of Sommelier India. Each day, we were treated to a visit from some of the top names in the wine industry, including Eric de St. Victor (Château de Pibarnon), Even Bakke (Clos de Trias) and Doug Margerum (Margerum Wines). During the week, we visited the Gabriel Meffre bottling facility in Gigondas (20 million bottles per year) and Château la Nerthe, a vineyard with nine centuries of history in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The group attempted to master the WSET systematic approach to tasting, and even had a chance to play winemaker by creating assemblages of grenache, syrah and viognier. Surrounding all of those activities was the luxury of La Verrière and its infinity pool with its view of the vineyard – where the team at Chêne Bleu says, “Great wines are nurtured.” ✤ WSET Calgary: finevintageltd.com/wine-courses/Calgary Chêne Bleu Extreme Wine: chenebleuextremewine.com extremewine@laverriere.com laverriere.com/chenebleuextremewine La Verrière: laverriere.com/main Château de Pibarnon: pibarnon.com/en

Visit Lina’s for the real ItalIan experience. 2202 Centre St NE 403.277.9166 www.linasmarket.com

Clos de Trias: closdetrias.com/CdT_Web_Site/Welcome Margerum Wines: margerumwinecompany.com Gabriel Meffre: gabriel-meffre.fr/home.php?language=en Château la Nerthe: chateaulanerthe.fr

Carolyne Kauser-Abbott writes Ginger and Nutmeg (gingerandnutmeg.com), a travel blog for foodies and manages a digital magazine, Perfectly Provence (perfectlyprovence.co)

CITYPALATE.ca MAY JUNE 2016

wildrosebrewery.com |

@wildrosebrewery |

wildrosebrewery |

Wild Rose Brewery |

CITYPALATE.ca MAY JUNE 2016

A Garden Club for Kids

LEARNING TO DIG IT

A program created by Poppy Innovations to help connect kids to where their food comes from by Holly Quan

We hear it all the time: Canadian children suffer dietrelated health problems, from obesity and diabetes to food allergies and sensitivities. Not only that, but busy families don’t have time to shop or prepare nutritious meals, much less share quality family time over a tasty, healthy dinner. And, except if you’re among those who shop at farmers’ markets, we’re all becoming ever more distant from our food’s producers. Ask a kid where milk comes from and they’re likely to say, “The fridge.” Enter Sharon McCormick, founder and CEO of Poppy Innovations, a business she established to reconnect adults and kids to healthy food – and to each other. She’s created a cool new program, hosted at the Calgary Farmers’ Market, to engage both kids and adults in learning to grow their own food. Describing herself as an “agri-preneur,” McCormick’s philosophy and the programs she’s created are founded on her life and career experience. For one thing, she recalls spending many summer hours as a kid in her family’s large garden, planting, weeding, thinning, and picking. “I didn’t appreciate the bounty of fresh, nutritious food at the time, but as an adult I have a different outlook,” she says, adding that she subsequently put her four kids to work in the family’s home garden – an experience that continues to bear fruit, so to speak. “Every summer we get together to make and preserve salsa from our own vegetables,” she says. “My kids are older now, but they still love this event, and they’re proud that we create preserves and gifts as a family, entirely from our own garden and effort.” Seeing an opportunity to put that passion into practice, McCormick founded Poppy Innovations in 2012 and now creates interactive education and activity-based programs across the food spectrum – growing to cooking – that she calls “gate to plate.” McCormick also built upon her business acumen and her background in kinesiology, which takes a holistic approach to health. She says, “I design opportunities for edible education. It’s a hands-on, learnby-doing approach that’s fun for both kids and adults.” McCormick’s programs include a parent and child culinary class at various locations in Calgary (check her website for details). Although her focus is on kids, she also offers classes for adults and teens and has organized a community garden in DeWinton with garden plots for lease. But it’s her partnership with the Calgary Farmers’ Market that embodies everything both organizations stand for: involving people, regardless of age, in learning about, appreciating, and using fresh, seasonal, locally produced food.

A P E R F E C T PART N E R S HI P For the past couple of years, Poppy Innovations has partnered with the Calgary Farmers’ Market to offer unique cooking classes and demonstrations on the market’s stage. “It’s quite a feat,” says Amanda Langbroek, director of marketing and events at the market. “Everything from the sink to the induction cooktop is on wheels, so we can quickly put together a mini-kitchen. We feature particular vendors or themes, and vendors often talk about the ingredients we’re highlighting, everything from honey to seasonal fruit and more.” The program McCormick is excited about is the Kids’ Garden Club, hosted at the market’s outdoor patio. Every Thursday in July and August, parents can drop their kids at the patio for up to 90 minutes of games, learning, and hands-on gardening in a big planter supplied by Agrium Inc. The club is oriented to ages 4 through 12, and can accommodate about 20 kids each week. To participate, pre-register via the Poppy Innovations website. You can choose as many sessions as you like. “We’ll show kids how to take care of the plants and soil and how to pick and prepare yummy food from the garden,” McCormick says. “Market vendors will talk about the difference between gardening and farming, the impact of weather, and it’s also a chance for city kids to actually talk to real farmers, ask questions and learn about good food and where it comes from.” Every participant will also receive $5 in “market bucks,” so after the class they can shop the market with parents and apply what they’ve learned. There’s a big kickoff planting event on June 4, from 11a.m. to 2 p.m. “We’ve selected fast-growing plants like salad greens, but other vegetables take time to grow and mature, so we need to plant early,” McCormick explains. “The June planting event is open to everyone, no registration required. Bring your kids and help us get our garden started.” McCormick’s ultimate goal is to empower kids – and parents – to make healthy, nutritious food choices, to inspire curiosity about new foods, and learn where food comes from. “It’s about fun,” she says, “the learning part comes along for the ride.”

Why “Poppy” Innovations?

McCormick explains, “We took our name from Demeter, the Greek goddess of the harvest – her symbol is the poppy. According to Greek mythology, Demeter would spread poppy seeds to produce more plentiful crops. Like those seeds, we share our tools and resources to build stronger, more abundant and healthy communities.” In Canada, 7 out of 10 children aged 4 to 8 say they don’t consume the recommended daily servings of fruits and vegetables. Involving children in preparing their food has shown that they are more likely to try new foods. Learning where your food comes from fosters good stewardship of the environment and a healthy lifestyle. ✤

For more information: Poppy Innovations: poppyinnovations.ca Calgary Farmers’ Market: calgaryfarmersmarket.ca

Holly Quan adores fresh peas, baby carrots and tomatoes warm from the vine, among other home-raised summer treats. However, she describes herself as “the world’s worst gardener.” Fortunately, there are lots of great farmers’ markets.

McKenzie Lake School has its own garden “club” for its kids...

McKenzie Lake School continues its learning journey to eco-stewardship, sustainability and locally grown food. The elementary school welcomed urban farming experts, Calgary’s Leaf Ninjas, and students and staff learned about relationships between people and ecosystems through interactive workshops on vermi-composting, micro-greens, planting indoor gardens and starting seedlings to plant outside. Students got their hands dirty and every corner of the school teems with sprouts and seedlings. Many classes have even enjoyed their first harvest from their micro-greens. McKenzie Lake’s anticipated next phase of this naturalization project includes an edible landscape, a beautiful pollinator garden, which will include self-watering raised vegetable beds. The students are carefully tending their seedlings and eagerly awaiting the plant-out date in June. ✤

CITYPALATE.ca MAY JUNE 2016

es Fireplaces Patio Furniture

Get Your Grill On Rockin’ Ronnie Shewchuk presents five sizzling barbecue classes at The Cookbook Co. Cooks! Spring is in the air, and so is the smoky aroma of outdoor cooking! It’s time to upgrade your grilling skills with our go-to barbecue evangelist Rockin’ Ronnie Shewchuk. Together with Barbecues Galore and Wild Rose Brewery, we’re thrilled to offer a series of classes that will satisfy your cravings. Whether you’re a novice griller or a wellseasoned expert, Rockin’ Ronnie has a class for you! ROCKIN’ RONNIE’S GRILLING ESSENTIALS (Beginner to Intermediate) Tuesday, May 24th, 6:30-9 pm, $125 per person Wednesday, May 25th, 6:30-9 pm (repeat class), $125 per person In this session, Ronnie will show you his award-winning techniques and share his favourite never-fail recipes. You’ll learn how to grill the Perfect Steak, prepare a burger to beat all burgers, and wow your guests with Ronnie’s succulent ‘Cheater’ Ribs. Along with all that meat you’ll learn how to prepare some tasty appetizers and side dishes including Grill-Roasted Veggies and Grilled Quesadillas, and finish the meal with a crazy-good dessert of Grilled Pineapple with Caramel Sauce. BEYOND THE BASICS WITH ROCKIN’ RONNIE (Intermediate to Expert) Thursday, May 26th, 6:30-9 pm, $125 per person If you’re ready to take your grilling to the next level, this class is for you. Ronnie will show you how to prepare Seared Calamari with Fresh Tomato-Basil Salsa, along with Cedar-Planked Tandoori Salmon with Peach Chutney and Minted Yoghurt, and an insanely delicious gourmet Beef Burger with a Chili-Butter Core topped with Chipotle and Roasted Garlic Mayo and Guacamole. You’ll start things off with Smoked Duck Salad with Fresh Mango and Toasted Pecans and finish it all off with one of Ronnie’s most delicious desserts, Whiskey & Honey Planked Tree Fruit.

Escape today on our patio.

A BARBECUE NIGHT OUT: Couples Grilling with Flavours of the Middle East Friday, May 27th, 6:30-9 pm, $125 per person Middle Eastern dishes like hummus and shawarma have long been a part of Canadian culinary life, but in recent years a new generation of chefs like Yotam Ottolenghi have been playing with traditional fare, and getting delicious results. In this class Rockin’ Ronnie Shewchuk show you how to take those bold flavours to the grill, with delicious dishes like Jerusalem Turkey Burgers, Persian-Style Lamb Kebabs and Duck Skewers with Harissa and Pomegranate Molasses.

For reservations call 403 268 8607 or visit heritagepark.ca

HIGH STEAKS COOKING Saturday, May 28th, 11 am-2 pm, $125 per person With the rising cost of meat, it’s more important than ever to grill it to perfection. In one of his most popular classes, Rockin’ Ronnie Shewchuk cooks up a feast of fabulous steaks – from humble treatments that will hit your comfort-food zone to more exotic fare that will send your tastebuds into the stratosphere. SECRETS OF CHAMPIONSHIP BARBECUE Sunday, May 29th, 10:30 am-3:30 pm, $225 per person This workshop is OFF-SITE at Glamorgan Community Centre. For over 20 years Barbecue Evangelist Rockin’ Ronnie Shewchuk and his fellow Butt Shredders have schooled generations of backyard barbecue champions. It’s time you get indoctrinated! This newly revamped, five-hour hands-on workshop at Calgary’s Glamorgan Community Centre is a life-changing experience. Grouped in teams of four, you’ll learn the essentials of classic Southern-Style barbecue by prepping and cooking pork ribs just like it’s done in the big competitions. Ronnie will demonstrate how to make barbecue rubs and sauces, and he and his team-mates will teach you the tips, tricks and techniques of championship barbecue. You’ll also hear Ronnie’s favourite stories from life on the competitive barbecue circuit.

Rockin’ Ronnie’s classes always sell out quickly, so call to register today!

Phone 403-265-6066, ext.1

ALL CLASSES HAVE BOTH DEMONSTRATION AND HANDS-ON COMPONENTS. THE GRILLING PORTION OF EACH CLASS WILL TAKE PLACE OUTDOORS – RAIN OR SHINE – PLEASE COME DRESSED FOR ALL OF CALGARY’S WEATHER POSSIBILITIES.

THE COOKBOOK CO. COOKS Barbecues Fireplaces Patio Furniture

arbecues Fireplaces Patio Furniture

722-11th Avenue SW cookbookcooks.com CITYPALATE.ca MAY JUNE 2016

stockpot

STIRRINGS AROUND CALGARY

city palate’s

Save the date! City Palate’s 4th annual

Really, Really Long Table Dinner MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 12th

SATURDAY, JUNE 11, 2016 8:30 A.M. TO 5 P.M.

HAVE YOU registered YET? Team up with your cleverest of food friends… meet at the Calgary Farmers’ Market, get your clues, and GO... the race is on! 30+ Calgary restaurants and

foodie destinations are participating and racers will be challenged

and tested by clues at each spot!

The race ends at Italian where great

Centre Shop

prizes and

bragging rights will be dished out!

Join us for the culinary race of the year! Race fee: Individuals $40; Teams $65

For race details, and to register, please visit

citypalate.ca/culinaryrace 46

CITYPALATE.ca MAY JUNE 2016

We know it’s a ways away, but some things are worth planning ahead for!

Check out this new web site – madeincalgary.org that’s all about great ideas, people and businesses that are made in Calgary, from arts, to cuisine, to tech – “Our entrepreneurial rock stars. Our boldest game-changers. Our home-grown businesses.” Good stuff! Spot the Dot – “Made in Calgary” big red dots are appearing all over downtown. Any business with a Made in Calgary sticker is born and raised in the 403. Stop in and say “hey, neighbour”! Anyway, that’s what the web site says!

restaurant ramblings ■ Enjoy a traditional afternoon tea on the verandah of the Famous 5 Centre of Canadian Women at Heritage Park Historical Village, Saturdays and Sundays, June 4 until August 28, 1:30 p.m. and 3 p.m. Tea includes petite finger sandwiches, freshly baked buttermilk and currant scones with creamery butter and preserves and a selection of petite French pastries, including lemon meringue tarts and raspberry chocolate macarons – yum! Reservations are recommended at 403-268-8500, details at heritagepark. ca/plan-your-visit/event-calendar/tea-onthe-verandah.html ■ Full Circle Pizza and Oyster Bar – what fun, oysters and pizza. Three varieties of east and west coast oysters, and pizza that’s a little different from what you usually find – not that there’s anything wrong with that! Like a pizza with green peas, pea shoots, prosciutto cotto and scamorza. Green, not red! Yum. And, more yum, mozzarella made by Calgary’s White Gold Cheese peeps for the ricotta gnocchi. The owners, Josh and Amelia Stoddart, headed up the kitchen and wine at Sugo Italian Food and Wine – good creds all ‘round. Full Circle will be launching a wood-fired brunch in time for Mother’s Day on Saturday and Sunday every week. Look for the fun likes of eggs purgatorio and breakfast pizza. And try curing a hangover with a dozen ultra-fresh jumbo oysters. The

freshest oysters all day, every day and buck-a-shuck for the last two hours every night. ■ Much anticipated new restaurants from Dwayne and Alberta Ennest, the Big Fish and Open Range people. White Rose Vegetarian Kitchen and The Coal Shed Smoke House, opening late May on historic Main Street Bowness. We love chef Dwayne’s good food and look forward to more of it. At White Rose, roasted eggplant, cashew and carrot top chimi churri, crispy yellow beetroot risotto cake, radicchio, blood orange, goat cheese, almond harissa and more interesting food. At The Coal Shed, smoked meat, like pulled pork butt with roasted apple maple barbecue sauce and savoy cabbage coleslaw. Bring it on, we say! ■ Congratulations to Higher Ground Café for winning the 2015 Top Choice award for Calgary’s best café. And, on top of that – or, actually, under Higher Ground – get your good breakfast and lunch at the newly opened The Daily Breakfast + Lunch restaurant, 1126 Kensington Rd. NW. ■ Get yourself over to the new Klein/ Harris restaurant/lounge put together by two great local food/drink people, chef James Waters, ex-Diner Deluxe and Home Tasting Room, and Calgary’s legendary cocktail master Christina Mah, ex-Raw Bar. They just randomly chose the name to name the two spaces – restaurant and lounge – that

make up the room. Hah, fun, randomly naming their room spaces! ■ Nicole Gomes has seduced us over the years in the nicest way with her good food through Nicole Gourmet Catering. Now we can be seduced by her renowned fried chicken at a restaurant she and her sister Francine set up, Cluck ‘N’ Cleaver. Look for birds that are humanely raised, sourced from southern Alberta farms, that are hormone free, never frozen and buttermilk soaked. Get them crunchy, crispy fried or roasted on a rotisserie, plus fries, veg, hot biscuits and cookies, and a cooler filled with cold fried chick, chick salad and drinks. This is more about take-out than dine-in. Check the fun web site, cluckncleaver.com wine (and beer) wanderings ■ This year’s Calgary International Beerfest, May 6 and 7, celebrates the new beer brewed by the Brew Master Program at Olds College in partnership with Alberta Beer Festivals. The style of the beer, its name and its label were chosen by Alberta’s beer lovers through the contest to “Choose It – Name It – Label It.” Rale Yard Red Ale is the new beer, and the three winners got to help brew it so you can taste it at Calgary’s Beerfest, at the BMO Centre, Stampede Park, and at the Pig and Duke locations. Visit albertabeerfestivals. com to learn more and purchase tickets. Alberta Beer Festivals has a charity involved in their events; this year it’s Autism Aspergers Friendship Society of Calgary and Kids Up Front. ■ Don’t miss the 16th Annual Nota Bene release celebration Saturday, June 18, at Black Hills Estate Winery, Oliver, B.C. The music headline for the evening is Barney Bentall and Whitewater Cooks founder Shelley Adams is guest chef who will make great food to pair with the wine. Tickets for the all-inclusive party, including transportation, are $199 and can be purchased at blackhillswinery. com/wines/2016-events or by calling the winery at 250-498-0666. ■ Ginapalooza – for all you gin fans, and we know there are many – takes place in Calgary, May 18 to June 1, and celebrates Canada’s great gin distillers – such as our very own Eau Claire Distillery Parlour Gin, Victoria Gin and Ungava Gin in Montreal – local artists, emerging businesses and entrepreneurs. And, internationally renowned gin brands are celebrated, too. Yay, gin! You get to drink all kinds of good gin at different venues – visit ginapalooza.com for all the boozy details ■ The potent potion, Guinevere’s Elixir, has been added to the honey wine roster at Chinook Arch Meadery – the first traditional mead release since John Cameron Classic hit the shelves in 2012. Using a blend of honeys, Guinevere’s Elixir has a bold citrus nose, silky floral notes and a

satisfying off-dry finish. Try it alone, or pair it with poultry, fish, or pork for a sweet addition to any meal. Available at Chinook Arch Meadery and Willow Park Wines & Spirits. Other locations coming soon. For a detailed list of locations go to chinookhoney.com/ find-our-mead. ■ The secret is out! Black Market Wine Co. earned a 1st and 2nd place finish in the People’s Choice Awards at Winefest Calgary this year. Secret Society White won Best White Over $20, and The Syndicate Red came runner-up for Best Red Over $30. And it gets better – we’re now available in Calgary at Wine Ink. ■ You can always count on Big Rock Brewery’s limited editions to come up with fun and tasty beers. One we love is Purple Gas, that calls to mind the prairie gas that was priced low for farm use and coloured purple. No gas in this beer – tasty wheat is coloured and tarted up with saskatoon berries and honey that’s light- to medium-bodied with medium carbonation. A fine, refreshing spring and summer quaff with your light summer eating. Then there’s a big-bodied beer, Barrel Aged Porter, a full 10% ABV, in which porter is aged in Kentucky bourbon oak barrels for six months then blended with six malts for a strong, exotic delicious brew. Check it all out at bigrockbeer.com

TAYLOR

FLADGATE 1966 SINGLE HARVEST PORT Share a special moment together on Father's Day.

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cooking classes ■ SAIT’s Downtown Culinary Campus: Introduction to Cooking, May 2-June 6; Knife Skills, May 3; Sweet Brunch, May 4; Knife Skills, Butchery, May 17; Cooking Boot Camp, May 31June 3; Date Night, June 3; Vegetarian, June 8; Viennoiserie, June 11; Herbs and Spices, June 22. At SAIT’s Main Campus – Desserts, May 3; Intermediate Cooking, May 4-25; Sushi, May 6; Indian, May 6; Baking Cakes May 14; Desserts and Confections Boot Camp, May 31-Jun 3; Thrill of the Grill, June 4; Cupcakes, June 11; France, June 21. Visit culinarycampus.ca for details and more courses. ■ Nutrition and Culinary Solutions: Vegetarian Cooking 101, learn basic vegetarian substitutions, cooking skills and how to cook plant-based proteins, save money and reduce food waste, June 1, 5:30-7 p.m.; Hands-on Healthy Cooking, learn healthy cooking skills that will allow you to transform nutrient-rich foods into a delicious, nourishing meal. Ideally suited to people with little or no cooking experience, June 14, 5-7 p.m. For details and registration, visit nutritionandculinarysolutions.ca/ncs-calendar

Breakfast + Lunch

To find a retailer visit liquorconnect.com/795310 Follow us on Twitter @ABPWS Toll Free: 1-877-716-9463

An uncompromisingly fresh breakfast and lunch menu featuring naturallyraised and locally-sourced ingredients. Served up daily in Kensington.

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CITYPALATE.ca MAY JUNE 2016

kids can cook

Pierre Lamielle

stockpot continued from page 47 ■ Cuisine et Château Culinary Centre: hands-on classes include Flaky Viennoiserie, May 1; Indochina, May 6, June 17; Summer Dessert & Ice Cream, May 8, June 12; Around the Mediterranean, May 13, June 3; Spanish Tapas, May 20, June 8/18; Gluten-Free Baking, June 11; Turn On The Grill, June 19; The 4 Elements – Grilling, Curing, Smoking, Marinating, June 26. Special Events include Cinco De Mayo, May 5, $65, a Mexican fiesta; Mother’s Day Brunch, May 8, $72, interactive brunch; Wine Series, Big Bold Reds and BBQ, June 19, $82, six bold wines paired with six BBQ creations, interactive for Father’s Day. Details and registration at cuisineandchateau.com ■ Poppy Innovations: cooking classes for all ages at multiple locations throughout the city. New classes for adults, teens and kids show you how to cook your way to healthier eating. Cooking day camps for kids also available this summer. Students can eat their way to good health with the Edible Education program, full of nutrition-based activities that provide hands-on lessons for students in all grades. This summer, kids can play in the dirt with the new Create Garden Club at the Calgary Farmers’ Market where they plant, tend, harvest and eat what they grow. For details and to sign up, visit poppyinnovations.ca ■ Amaranth Markets and master herbalist, Derek Fleming, host a presentation and tasting event on Friday, May 6, teaching how to use spring herbs, mushrooms and foods to prepare healthy tonics and enhance your recipes. Your liver and taste buds will thank you! The class takes place 6:30-8:30 p.m. at Loft 112 in the East Village for $25. Register at eventbrite. ca (search tonic herbalism with Amaranth). ■ The Cookbook Co. Cooks: look for A Night Out: A Couples Cooking Class; Yeasted Sweet Doughs, a twoday workshop; Off The Menu of Alloy; Thai Classics; Asian Feast: Old World vs New World Wines; Sushi Making; Grown Up & Kid Cooking Class; Ron Shewchuk Classes – Rockin’ Ronnie’s Grilling Essentials, High Steaks Cooking, Secrets of Championsip Barbecue, Smoking Workshop; Hand-made Stuffed Pasta; Bees at a Picnic. Visit cookbookcooks.com for more classes, register at 403-265-6066, ext. 1. general stirrings ■ The Millarville Farmers’ Market is looking for vendors who produce these products: beef, pork, chicken, bison and elk. If you’re interested in becoming a full time vendor every Saturday starting June 18th to October 8th, please contact Melonie McKee at 403-931-3411.

CITYPALATE.ca MAY JUNE 2016

■ The Italian Centre Shop hosts monthly events to bring local chefs from Calgary’s favourite restaurants and notable culinarians together with food lovers for a chance to educate and inspire. Chef Duncan Ly is scheduled for May, so check social media channels and italiancentre.ca for the date and more details about these fun events. ■ Join the Leighton Art Centre, June 4 and 5, 10 a.m.-4 p.m. for the annual Clothesline Festival & Art Sale that features more than 1,000 pieces of unframed art, live music, kids’ activities and food trucks. Free admission. The Sunset Soirée, June 3, offers a sneak-peek at the art, wine tastings, gourmet food and live music. Tickets for the soirée and driving directions at leightoncentre.org

■ After three years of growing and developing the Amaranth business Philip Wong has accepted the role of General Manager at Bite Groceteria in historic Inglewood. He has a vision of developing the business into an iconic Inglewood brand which focuses on honest local food, quality and affordable grab-and-go and everyday (healthy) shopping needs. ■ Urbane Culinary is “bringing sexy back” to the Calgary catering scene. Partner and executive chef Craig Boje (formerly at Kensington Riverside Inn and exec sous chef for the Hotel Arts Group) and partner Caroline Seymour (former associate director of events for Hotel Arts) have opened up a fun, interactive, innovative catering company. They specialize in weddings, receptions, special events, customtailored menus, residential dinners, corporate luncheons, Stampede (they will brand your company logo into your pancakes). Healthy, cost-effective dinner meals can be delivered to your home or office daily or weekly. urbaneculinary.ca, 403-619-8997 ■ Bridgeland Riverside Farmers’ Market runs Thursdays June 23 to October 6, 3:30-7:30 p.m. The market launch on June 23 will be

■ Cherry Pit in the Calgary Farmers’ Market is up to some cool new things this spring. Owner Sharla Dubé has enlisted Top Pop entrepreneur Nicolle Pittman to develop a popsicle program for their legendary farm-fresh produce. Top Pop arrived last summer as Calgary’s first all-natural local fruit ice pop, and Pittman promises nothing less than frozen magic for Cherry Pit. “Calgary’s freshest ice pops” hit the Market in June! ■ Gluten-free and more. Delissitude is a boutique bakery that offers delicious gluten, nut and dairy free desserts, breads, pizza crusts and perogies at their location in the Calgary Farmers’ Market next to Analog Coffee. Vegan options are also available. Renay EngFisher and her husband Steve use local, natural and organic ingredients whenever possible to produce a dazzling array of fresh cupcakes, pies, cookies and squares each week plus special-order cakes. For more info: 403-242-3386 /delissitude15@gmail.com. ■ Spring has sprung at Innisfail Growers at the Calgary Farmers’ Market! Enjoy fresh local seasonal veggies. Edgar Farms Asparagus will be available starting late May or early June. Enjoy Hillside Greenhouse tomatoes, cucumbers and beans, Jungle Farm spinach, lettuce, potted herbs and baby bunched beets. Beck Farms’ storage carrots should be available until mid-late May. Grab some Upper Green seed potatoes for your garden! To learn more, visit innisfailgrowers.com ■ May is Speech & Hearing Month and Hear Alberta celebrates restaurants where the volume allows for fun and conversation. Nominate your favourite restaurant for the Safe Sound Awards at hearalberta.ca. You could win a prize pack to a sound-friendly restaurant. Nominations are open May 1-31, winners announced in June.

Our housemade Indian tea starts with the best spices. 9

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■ Farmers’ market mobile app, produced by Alberta Agriculture and Forestry, is available for free download to your Apple or Android devices. The Alberta Approved Farmers’ Market mobile app will link users to up-to-date information on the more than 120 Alberta approved farmers’ markets, including location, dates, times and contact information. Go to agriculture. alberta.ca/farmersmarkets to access the links to the App Store or Google Play.

■ As the recipient of the Peavey Mart Community Agricultural Grant, Organic Alberta announces it will launch the Young Agrarians program in Alberta. Young Agrarians was founded in B.C. with the mission of growing the next generation of ecological farmers. Young Agrarians will work with farmers to organize farm tours, potlucks, mixers and workshops across Alberta over the next two years to provide a sense of community to young farmers to help them be successful. Upcoming events include Young Agrarians Farm Tour and Workshop at Red Tail Farms, Castor, Alberta, May 21-22. Visit youngagrarians.org/category/alberta for all the details.

■ COBS Bread has opened in Marda Loop! Located at the new Garrison Corner, this is COBS Bread’s 13th location in Calgary and is owned and operated by Bishwa Pati, local pastry chef. All of the products are baked fresh daily and the traditional breads contain no added preservatives, artificial colours, sugar or dairy. Find out more at cobsbread.com.

a big affair with live entertainment, free kids’ acitivities and lots of great vendors. Vendors for the season will include customer favourites like Apple Lady, Noble Gardens, Eat Bake Love, and many more.More info at bridgelandfarmersmarket.com

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1614 9th street sw (just off 17th ave)

IT’S NEVER BEEN EASIER TO...

Own a Luxurious Home in the South of France In the heart of the Languedoc, the world’s largest wine-growing region, Jardin de Charlotte is now ready for occupancy

• Three new luxury home units available in a gated community • Salt water pool, stunning gardens, gated parking and courtyards • Situated in the bustling town of Olonzac, an area surrounded by vineyards and olive groves; unsurpassed natural beauty for walking, biking and relaxing • Half hour drive to the Mediterranean sea, Narbonne and historic Carcassonne, two minutes to the beautiful Canal du Midi • Canadian development company with decades of experience Visit us at: jardindecharlotte.com Contact us: david.furneaux@gmail.com (Calgarian, English speaking)

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pig & pinot JOIN US FOR

city palate’s SIXTH ANNUAL

Thursday, June 16th

■ Join Cuisine et Château’s professional chefs in the Périgord region of France for an all-inclusive luxury gastronomic experience of a lifetime. Meet farmers, purveyors, winemakers in an authentic setting. The 2017 dates include June 4-10 and June 11-17 and are selling fast. Don’t wait! For details visit cuisineandchateau. com/culinary-tours or call 403-764-2665. ■ Calgary Food Tours celebrates 10 years in business by expanding to Canmore in June and Edmonton in August. All three cities will offer year-round weekend tours. Calgary will have six tours weekly, including an all-new Wednesday evening behind-the-scenes progressive dinner in The Simmons Building with Phil and Sebastian, Sidewalk Citizen and Charbar. Buy tickets and check the full schedule at calgaryfoodtours.com and canmorefoodtours.com ■ Spend Canada Day at the crossroads of history and high fashion and celebrate the 111th year of racing at the Millarville track. Eau Claire Distillery and River Café are presenting the first ever Millarville Derby at the oldest running thoroughbred races in Canada, Millarville Races, July 1. Proceeds from the day will benefit both the Millarville Racing & Agricultural Society and The Alex Community Food Centre. Derbywestern dress – dapper gents and women in fabulous millinery. Friend of the event, Chef Liana Robberecht – who creates an elegant line of fascinators under her brand Lollipop Girl Accessories – will be donating a portion of her sales to this cause, so check them out. Your entry includes cocktails by Eau Claire

119 - 12th AVENUE SW 7-10 PM A FUNDRAISING EVENT IN SUPPORT OF 12 talented chef teams compete for the coveted “Divine Swine” trophy, sponsored by Alberta Pork, as they create delicious and original pork dishes with free-range pork from Spragg’s Meat Shop. And nothing pairs better with the perfect porcine than the perfect pinot! 5 boutique wine stores will pour an amazing selection of pinot wines from around the world. And you get to taste it all!

Distillery and canapés by River Café and the new Deane House. There’s live music, lessons by a local expert on horse-racing, and other event-day surprises. Tickets are limited, so get yours early for this exclusive gathering. eauclairedistillery.ca/events ■ InterCourse Chef Services can relieve you of the anxiety that’s often associated with organizing private or corporate catered events yourself. With more than 600 recipes from around the world, your next homecooking lesson will get your culinary confidence sharpened in no time. Dust off your barbecue and visit inter-course. ca to book your Sizzlin’ Summer Party! ■ Culinary Tours with chef Gail Hall, Seasoned Solutions: Chicago, May 1923; Jasper, Alberta, July 30-August 1; Nova Scotia, September 22-29. Visit seasonedsolutions.ca for details and registration. ■ Joy Road Catering in the Okanagan hosts alfresco vineyard dinners – Sunday Evening Dinners or Thursday Winemaker Dinners throughout the summer, starting June 5 with a Spot Prawn Dinner, $95, through October 9 with a Thanksgiving dinner, $110. Visit joyroadcatering.com/events for all the delicious details. ■ Don’t miss the Calgary Humane Society’s Dog Jog, a fundraising walk and festival for you and your furry friend, June 4, South Glenmore Park, 10 a.m.-2 p.m. Strut your stuff for a shelter pup. Visit calgaryhumane.ca to register and find out more about dog jog. ■ Waterton Lakes National Park is beautiful and, better yet, Waterton’s Food Festival is May 27-June 6. Showcases the finest, most delicious and unique cuisine it has to offer. Check it out!

Plus... a great silent auction; a fine wine raffle valued at over $1500; a Cappuccino King Coffee Cart; Silly Booth photos; and live music by Simply Sinatra, featuring Rob Young.

food prepared by:

Roy Oh: Anju ■ Andrea Harling: MADE Foods ■ Daryl Kerr: Great Events Catering Michael Noble: Notable/The Nash ■ Scott Ruegg: Ox and Angela Oscar Lopez: Pampa ■ Aaron Creurer: Red Tree ■ Ian Smith: Swine and Sow Kevin Turner: Symons Valley Road House ■ Gary Hennesey: Tango Bistro Melissa Gorsedin: The Cookbook Co. Cooks ■ Quinn Staples: Yellow Door Bistro

pinot poured by:

Celebrating UNA’s Front-of-House Staff We go to UNA a lot because we love the food and we love the people who serve it to us. You can hardly find nicer peeps, always a ready smile for everyone in a hugely busy restaurant, and always ready to put up with our eccentricities, like leaving the wine carafe on the table to let it sit a bit so the wine “legs” run to the bottom and we can pour out another half-slurp! Hah. Thank you for being so charming, accommodating and fun, L-R: Jenna, Katy, Aidan, Leanne and Adam.

tickets available now:

$130, PIGANDPINOTCALGARY.EVENTBRITE.CA

city palate T H E

F L AV O U R

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C A L G A R Y ’ S

CITYPALATE.ca MAY JUNE 2016

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City Palateers Ellen Kelly and Kathy Richardier

THE LIGHT IN THE PIAZZA Book by Craig Lucas Music Cookbook and Lyrics by Adam Guettel

Co.

“The most intensely romantic score of any musical since West Side Story” the new york times

APRIL 26 to MAY 22

#tcPiazza photo by david cooper

Produced in arrangement with Turner Entertainment Co. Owner of the original motion picture Light in the Piazza Based on the novel by Elizabeth Spencer Directed by Michael Shamata

Tickets: 403-294-7447 theatrecalgary.com

Don’t undo the years in one night. Life’s most special moments call for celebration. Make your special night one you’ll never forget, not one you’ll never remember. Celebrate responsibly: please don’t drink and drive.

CITYPALATE.ca MAY JUNE 2016

ADAC CALGARY GALLERY HOP WITH CALGARY’S TOP GALLERIES

M�� 28, 2016 11 �� 5 �� *G�� T�� L�� A�� *W�� A�� P�� M�� Herringer Kiss Gallery 709A - 11th Avenue SW Jarvis Hall Gallery 333B - 36th Avenue SE Loch Gallery 1516 - 4th Street SW Masters Gallery Ltd 2115 - 4th Street SW Newzones Gallery 730 - 11th Avenue SW Paul Kuhn Gallery 724 - 11th Avenue SW Trépanier Baer Gallery 999 - 5th Street SW Wallace Galleries Ltd 500 - 5th Avenue SW www.facebook.com/ADAC-Calgary-1732475353638313/

1996

2016

6 quick ways with...

RHUBARB

For me, a garden is not a garden if there’s no rhubarb growing in it. When rhubarb is growing, I know it’s summer! Trim the stalks about an inch from the start of the leaves, and don’t eat the leaves, they contain toxic amounts of oxalic acid. Here are six remarkable recipes that do not include a pie, muffins or a loaf. Enjoy. rhubarb lemonade The great thing about this beverage is that it tastes so refreshing and it’s also slimming. It turns out that rhubarb has a chemical compound that actually shrinks your cell tissue. In a pot over medium heat, put 6 c. water, 4 c. fresh rhubarb, coarsely chopped, and 1-1/2 c. sugar. Stir until the sugar has dissolved. Bring this to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer for 5 minutes. Remove from heat and let steep for 5 minutes more, before straining into a pitcher. Add the juice of 2 lemons, 4 or 5 handfuls of ice, and stir until all the ice has melted, then add another handful of ice before serving. Makes 9 cups.

rhubarb and leek chutney This is my version of a chutney that I first had at Magnolia’s in Lunenburg N.S., many years ago, and it’s still my go-to chutney for salmon. In a saucepan over medium heat, put 2 T. butter, 1 medium leek, thinly sliced, 1 T. ground coriander, 1/2 t. smoked paprika and 1 t. salt. Sauté until the leeks are wilted, about 3 to 5 minutes. Add 2 c. finely sliced rhubarb, 1 c. sugar and 1 c. water, bring to a boil and reduce to simmer. Cook until pulpy and thick, about 15 to 20 minutes. Remove from heat, stir in 1/4 c. cider vinegar and 1 t. Sriracha sauce. This chutney is delish with everything from grilled cheese to curry. Makes 3-1/2 cups.

rhubarb vinaigrette This is the dressing to set off a bountiful tossed salad. Also great as a sauce over any cold roast meat. Into a blender or food processor, put 1 c. chopped rhubarb, frozen or fresh, 1/2 c. water, 1/4 c. olive oil, 2 T. honey, 2 T. raspberry vinegar, 2 t. Dijon mustard, 1 t. ground sumac (find at specialty food stores and Silk Road Spice Merchant) and blend until smooth. Makes 2 cups.

CITYPALATE.ca MAY JUNE 2016

Chris Halpin

baked chicken with rhubarb and bacon Rhubarb and bacon – wow! Preheat the oven to 375° F. In a skillet over high heat, put 6 rashers of bacon, cut into 1/2-inch pieces, and fry until crispy. While the bacon is frying, rinse, blot dry, salt and pepper 4 chicken thighs with legs. Once the bacon is crispy, remove and set aside for later. To the remaining bacon fat, add the chicken and brown on both sides. When the chicken is browned, add 2 onions, finely sliced and sauté about 5 minutes. Add in the crispy bacon, 4 sage leaves, finely sliced, 2 c. rhubarb cut into 1/2-inch pieces. Sauté a minute more before adding 2 c. cava (sparkling wine) or a medium-bodied white wine. Place in the oven and bake until the chicken skin is golden brown and crispy and the rhubarb is soft, about 35 to 40 minutes. In the last 10 minutes of baking, brush 1/4 c. maple syrup over everything and lightly salt; return to the oven and finish baking. Serves 4.

roasted spring carrots, fennel and rhubarb with garlic This is great as a hot side or serve it cold with crumbled chèvre and pine nuts as a salad. Preheat the oven to 375° F. Cut 6 small carrots into finger-sized pieces and 2 small fennel bulbs into wedges. Arrange the vegetables on a baking tray, drizzle with olive oil, sprinkle 1/2 t. cumin, salt and a pinch of chile flakes, and roll to evenly coat. Bake in the oven for 25 to 30 minutes, or until tender and evenly roasted. While the vegetables are roasting, cut 2 stalks of rhubarb into 1/2-inch pieces and place in a bowl with 6 garlic cloves, peeled and cut in half lengthwise. To this, add 1 T. sherry vinegar, 2 T. honey and a pinch of salt, mix well. In the last 15 minutes of roasting, place the rhubarb beside the other vegetables and return to the oven to finish roasting. When finished, toss everything together and adjust the salt to your liking. Serves 4 to 6.

CLOTHESLINE FESTIVAL & ART SALE

- 4pm June 4 & 5 10am FREE ADMISSION

Celebrating local art for over 40 years! Over 1000 Original Artworks Kid’s Activities Live Music Artist Demonstrations Food Trucks Beautiful Foothills Views leightoncentre.org 403-931-3633

recipe photos by Chris Halpin

rhubarb, summer berry semifreddo Semifreddo is Italian for halffrozen, a dessert whose perfection is fleeting when made in the traditional way. We are trying to get a magical moment, where it is firm enough to cut, but not yet rigid. What I’ve discovered is that adding booze to the recipe stops the dessert from becoming too hard. Put into a saucepan 3 c. thinly sliced rhubarb, fresh or frozen, 1 c. water and 1-1/2 c. sugar. Place over medium heat and stir until the sugar has dissolved. Once boiling, reduce the heat and simmer for 10 to 15 minutes, stirring from time to time. Once the mixture has cooked to a fine pulpy consistency, remove from heat. When cooled to room temperature, add 1/2 c. Chambord or Limoncello and stir. Line a bowl or jelly-mold with plastic wrap; arrange 1/2 c. raspberries and 1 c. blackberries on the bottom and add the rhubarb. Gently fold over the excess plastic to cover and place in the freezer for at least 3 hours. Will be great for up to a week. Serves 6.

CITYPALATE.ca MAY JUNE 2016

Home of AUTHENTIC Italian sausage, in the heart of INGLEWOOD

back burner SHEWCHUK ON SIMMER

Allan Shewchuk

HOSER NATION?

I recently lived for an extended period in Florence, Italy. One might have thought that, over time, I would have started to take on the affectations, customs and traits of my new countrymen. The only thing that being immersed in a strange land brought out in me, however, was awareness of the fact that I am a bred-in-the-bone Canadian.

Quality meats, natural spices and Old-World recipes. That’s authentic Italian. wholesale & Retail • 1308 9th ave. se • 403.264.6452

Something for Every-body

I started noticing just how ingrained my nationality was whenever I had to line up for anything in my new world. People pushed past me, budged me over and left me at the back of every line I was in. And, because I’m Canadian, I put up with it. I just couldn’t bring myself to start pushing to the front. I also found myself routinely apologizing to everyone, especially those who had committed trespasses against me. It was the classic scenario of “How do you spot a Canadian in an elevator? He’s the one who says ‘I’m sorry’ when you step on his foot.” The ultimate example of my Canadian behaviour was that before my hardworking and thorough Romanian cleaning lady would arrive, I would clean the entire house so that she didn’t think badly of me. Yet despite my displaying the virtues of patience, politeness and caring that define people from Canada, whenever someone in Florence found out where I was from, all they’d ask was if I wanted a beer. Once, upon discovering I was Canadian, a group of Japanese tourists in a piazza even raised their hands to their heads like antlers and yelled “Can-a-da! Biru MOOSEHEAD!” Seriously? For all that Canada has to offer – landscapes, hockey, Timbits – the rest of the world just sees us as beer-swilling Canucks?

Yoga Pilates Pre/Postnatal Barre

Don’t believe me? Even at the recent state dinner for Prime Minister Justin Trudeau at the White House, the President of the United States got a laugh with this remark: “I was going to get a two-four.”

YO GA M A N DA L A

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This seemed so unfair to me, given our burgeoning wine industry and the fact that we have one of the most vibrant restaurant scenes on the planet. How did we get this rap as a nation of hosers? I suppose part of the answer is that two of the most famous Canadian characters of all time – Bob and Doug McKenzie – were hosers, their television show set largely consisting of several stacks of Molson Canadian cases. On that note, one of Canada’s most recognizable brands is the Montreal Canadiens, who, for most of their existence, were owned by the Molsons. Even the Toronto Blue Jays were just a creation of their owner, Labatt (where do you think the “blue” in the name came from?). And so, historically, we are a country literally floating in a beer ocean from coast to coast to coast. But I still had to wonder if we’re so obsessed with the stuff that it’s become our defining feature. Then I had a flashback and realized we probably deserve this stereotype. I’d remembered the great beer strikes of the late 1970s and early 1980s, when Alberta’s unionized brewery workers would flex their muscles and shut off the tap of suds to the populace. Upon declaring a strike, a union boss, inevitably with a thick British brogue, would call a press conference and declare “We’ll bring this province to its knees!” And so these bosses did. It was a full crisis. There were no private microbreweries back then, only government liquor stores with empty shelves. The hoards of hosers, myself included, had two options to slake their thirst: they could track down a shipment of American Olympia beer, or seek out the beer provided by the only non-union brewery in the province, called Uncle Ben’s. Both options were fraught with peril. Olympia was so watery and tasteless that Canadians couldn’t tell it was beer, and Uncle Ben’s was so bad as to cause spit takes. You didn’t have to worry about finding a mouse in a bottle of Uncle Ben’s – not even a starving rodent would go near the stuff. If a beer strike anywhere in the country dragged into the dog days of summer, Canadians finally lost their minds. The arrival of a shipment of non-union brew at the vendors would cause beer riots. So, on reflection, I guess we are passionate about our suds. But I should point out that because this crisis occurred in Canada, our beer “riots” consisted of peeved people standing in a long, orderly lineup, and if someone’s foot got stepped on, they apologized. Allan Shewchuk is a food writer and sought-after Italian food and wine guru. He currently has kitchens in both Calgary and Florence, Italy, but will drink wine pretty much anywhere.

CITYPALATE.ca MAY JUNE 2016

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