Seasoned Spring 2020

Page 1

THE INSPIRED COOKING MAGAZINE FOR OLDER ADULTS

SPRING 2020

ONE-POT PASTA

So much taste, so little effort

STORAGE TIPS

How to keep your produce fresh

SUPER SNACK

Like popcorn? Try our cauliflower


presented by

RECIPES IN THIS ISSUE

3 Healthy Breakfast Omelet with Greens and Feta Cheese 5 No-Cook Lunch Tuna Salad with Tomatoes 9 Salad of the Season Radish and Orange Salad

11 Snack Cauliflower “Popcorn” 13 Dinner Plus: Entree Spiced Chicken Breasts 14 Dinner Plus: Side Pan-Roasted Asparagus 15 Dinner Plus: Dessert Fresh Fruit Gelée

Dear Readers, As the percentage of older Americans continues to increase—by 2050 we are expected to make up 29% of the U.S. population—improving our overall health becomes ever more important, for societal as well as personal reasons. Clearly, good nutrition is a critical component of this effort. That’s where Seasoned comes in. While there are many programs that ably speak to systemic issues around food access and healthier eating, we want to address what we feel is often the missing link in discussions of this issue: cooking at home. By increasing the number of older At Seasoned, we believe that cooking can be joyful and empowering; that home-cooked food is more nutritious and less expensive than prepared food; and that people will eat healthy food when it tastes good. Our mission, therefore, is to inspire every adult to cook and eat real food and to provide them with the skills that they need to do so.

STAFF SALLY SAMPSON Founder/President JOHN (DOC) WILLOUGHBY Editor CONNIE ASKIN Executive Director VIC DEROBERTIS Creative Director CARL TREMBLAY Photographer CATRINE KELTY Food Stylist

2

SPRING 2020

seasoned

ADAM RIED Contributor KAREN WISE Copy Editor EVILEE EBB Business Development HEIDI BROADLEY Publishing Director ALLIE CRAFTON Communications Manager STEPHANIE HURWITZ Office/Test Kitchen Manager

17 Side Dish Roasted Carrots and Red Onions 19 Side Dish Chilled Sesame Spinach 20 From Adam’s Pantry Easy Pea Soup

22 Cooking with Friends One-Pot Spring Pasta 25 Learning from an Expert Rice and Peas with Coconut 26 Snack Easiest Quesadilla

adults who are cooking simple, healthy meals at home, we believe we can make an important difference. So, our goal in publishing Seasoned is to help change behaviors and perceptions about the affordability, ease, and health benefits associated with cooking for yourself and others. To achieve this, we are dedicated to working collaboratively with community health centers, farmers’ markets, grocery stores, government agencies, universities, hospitals, and SNAP, among others. If you are interested in joining us in this effort, send us an email at doc@ seasonedmag.org or call us at 844-343-7580. Happy cooking,

SUBSCRIBE A one-year subscription—four fantastic issues delivered to your door—costs just $18.95. Subscriptions at www.seasonedmag.org DONATE Donations are used to provide free magazines to organizations that serve low-income and at-risk older adults. Donate at www.seasonedmag.org CONTACT US Editorial inquiries: Call 844-343-7580 or write to: 695–697 Belmont Street, Belmont MA 02478 Copyright © 2020 ChopChop Family, a 501(c)(3) corporation. ISSN 2169-0987. 10th printing, printed at LSC Communications, March 2020. Printed in the U.S.A.


HEALTHY BREAKFAST

Omelet with Greens and Feta Cheese

Depending upon whom you talk to, omelets are either really easy or really hard to make. If you haven’t made one before, you might make a few mistakes at first, but it will still taste delicious no matter what it looks like. And when you get it right, you will have really achieved something. This recipe is for one omelet. Once you’ve mastered it, you can move on to a bigger skillet and double the recipe, so a friend can have one, too. HANDS-ON TIME: 20 MINUTES TOTAL TIME: 20 MINUTES MAKES: 1 SERVING

INGREDIENTS 2 large eggs 1 cup dark leafy greens, such as spinach, Swiss chard, or kale, well washed and finely chopped 2 tablespoons crumbled feta cheese 1 teaspoon olive or vegetable oil INSTRUCTIONS 1. Put the eggs, greens, and feta in a small bowl and beat with a whisk or fork until bright yellow. 2. Put an 8-inch nonstick lidded skillet on the stove, turn the heat to medium-low, and add the oil. 3. When the oil is hot, add the egg mixture and tilt the pan to spread it evenly around the bottom. 4. When the eggs look firm and are set on the edges, about 3 minutes, cover the pan and continue cooking until the top is set, about 1 minute. 5. Fold the omelet in half with a spatula, then slide it onto a plate. Serve right away.

Or You Could

Make It Fluffy: For fluffier eggs, start by putting the eggs and a pinch of kosher salt in a small bowl and beating with a whisk or fork, then allow to sit for 5 minutes before mixing in the greens and feta. Pre-salting helps break up the eggs’ proteins, which makes them more tender and moister. seasoned

SPRING 2020

3


QUICK BITES

4

Celery stuffed with feta

Greek yogurt with toasted sesame seeds and chopped almonds

Carrots with celery salt

Whole-wheat crackers with almond butter

SPRING 2020

seasoned


NO-COOK LUNCH

Tuna Salad with Tomatoes For this quick lunch idea, we drain the tuna well, which results in a salad that doesn’t sog up the bread. Serve on top of greens or as a sandwich between slices of whole-grain bread or tucked into a whole-grain pita.

HANDS-ON TIME: 20 MINUTES TOTAL TIME: 20 MINUTES MAKES: 2 SERVINGS

INGREDIENTS 1 (5-ounce) can tuna (any kind) 6 cherry or grape tomatoes, cut into quarters ½ small cucumber, peeled or scrubbed and diced 2 tablespoons chopped celery leaves, fresh dill, or fresh parsley 2 tablespoons plain Greek or regular yogurt 1 tablespoon olive or vegetable oil 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard ½ teaspoon kosher salt INSTRUCTIONS 1. Set a colander in the sink, then empty the tuna into it. Using a fork, press down on the tuna to squeeze out the liquid. 2. Transfer the drained tuna to a large bowl and add all the remaining ingredients. Stir gently; you want to combine the ingredients well but avoid breaking up the tuna too much. 3. Serve right away, or cover and refrigerate at least 1 hour and up to 24 hours.

Or You Could

Add additional flavor with ½ teaspoon dried herbs, such as thyme or oregano. Another great option is herbes de Provence, which is a combination of dried herbs from the Provence region of France, usually including thyme, oregano, savory, marjoram, and rosemary, as well as lavender leaves. So even ½ teaspoon packs a lot of flavor.

seasoned

SPRING 2020

5


It’s a waste of money and shopping time, not to mention just a plain waste of food, when produce goes bad. To minimize all those types of loss, it helps to know where and how each type of produce should be stored. Here are some tips.

WHEN TO WASH IT

Moisture can promote the growth of mold and bacteria, so it’s important to wash produce right before you use it rather than before storing it.

HOW TO PACKAGE IT

To prevent moisture loss, it’s usually best to store produce in the packaging in which it was sold. Very often these bags or other containers are designed to let ethylene gas (which promotes ripening) escape while keeping most moisture in. Another option is to store your produce in partially open plastic produce bags. An exception: Whole cucumbers, zucchini, and summer squash should be tightly wrapped in plastic wrap for storage. 6

SPRING 2020

seasoned


WHERE TO STORE IT At Room Temperature On the kitchen counter but not in direct sunlight: • Tomatoes, lemons, limes, oranges, and grapefruit • Fruits that continue to ripen after being picked (called “climacteric” fruits): bananas, mangoes, peaches, nectarines, plums, and papayas

In the pantry or a drawer at cool room temperature and away from light: • Garlic, onions, shallots, potatoes, sweet potatoes, and winter squashes

In the Refrigerator

Not all parts of your refrigerator are the same. The coolest area is the back of the fridge on the top and middle shelves, while the warmest is the front on the middle and bottom shelves—the temperature difference can be as much as 10 degrees. The most humid part of the fridge is the crisper drawer. Different types of produce do best in different areas. In the back, where the temperature is lowest: • Fruits not sensitive to chill-injury: apples, grapes, and cherries At the front, where the temperature is highest: • Fruits sensitive to chill-injury: melons, pears, avocados, and all types of berries

In the Crisper

Almost all vegetables do best in the humid environment of the crisper, including beets, broccoli, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, celery, corn, cucumbers, eggplants, green beans, herbs, kale and other leafy greens, lettuces, mushrooms, peppers, radishes, rhubarb, summer squash, and zucchini seasoned

SPRING 2020

7


8

SPRING 2020

seasoned


SALAD OF THE SEASON

Radish and Orange Salad Think you don’t like radishes? Think again. Though they can be quite spicy, they are beautiful, crunchy, and even—once you get past the spiciness—quite sweet. Here’s a springtime salad that features them: a little crunchy, a little spicy, a little sweet, a lot delicious. You can substitute any type of lettuce for the mixed greens. HANDS-ON TIME: 20 MINUTES TOTAL TIME: 20 MINUTES MAKES: 2 SERVINGS

INGREDIENTS ½ cups spring mix salad greens (4 ounces) 1 2 radishes, trimmed and thinly sliced ½ small orange or tangerine, peeled, seeded, and thinly sliced ½ English cucumber, scrubbed or peeled and thinly sliced 1 tablespoon olive or vegetable oil 1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice ¼ teaspoon kosher salt

INSTRUCTIONS 1. Put the spring mix, radishes, orange or tangerine, and cucumber in a large bowl and toss well. 2. Mix the oil, lemon juice, and salt in a small bowl and whisk vigorously to combine. 3. Pour the oil and lemon juice mixture over the salad and and toss gently. 4. Serve right away.

Radish Types

Although oval red radishes are the ones that most of us are familiar with, radishes can be round or carrot-shaped and may be white, purple, gray-black, green, or yellow. There’s even a multicolored variety called an Easter Egg radish and a Fire and Ice radish that is red on the top and white on the bottom. Any will work in this recipe.

seasoned

SPRING 2020

9


10

SPRING 2020

seasoned


SNACK

Cauliflower “Popcorn” Crisp on the outside, creamy on the inside, and tasty all over—this cauliflower can be served as either a side dish or a substantial snack. It’s best eaten when hot, so if you are cooking for just one or two people, use only half the ingredients.

HANDS-ON TIME: 10 MINUTES TOTAL TIME: 40 MINUTES MAKES: 4 SERVINGS

INGREDIENTS 1 head cauliflower 1 tablespoon olive or vegetable oil ½ teaspoon kosher salt INSTRUCTIONS 1. Turn on the oven and set the heat to 425 degrees. 2. Cut the core out of the cauliflower, then pull apart the florets into pieces about the size of popped corn or slightly larger. 3. Put the cauliflower on a large rimmed baking sheet, add the oil and salt, and toss to mix well. Spread out the cauliflower in a single layer. 4. Put the baking sheet in the oven and roast until the cauliflower is golden brown, about 30 minutes, tossing every 10 minutes to ensure even cooking. Serve right away.

Or You Could

Make it spicy: When the cauliflower comes out of the oven, sprinkle it with 1–2 teaspoons ground cumin, smoked paprika, curry powder, or nutritional yeast.

seasoned

SPRING 2020

11


DINNER PLUS

Spiced Chicken Breasts, Pan-Roasted Asparagus, and Fresh Fruit Gelée

12

SPRING 2020

seasoned


Spiced Chicken Breasts This easy recipe, which was inspired by a recipe from Gourmet magazine, results in highly flavorful, evenly cooked chicken. Using bone-in chicken deepens the flavor, as does browning it well before roasting. This is a great dish to serve for company as it is easily doubled or tripled. HANDS-ON TIME: 15 MINUTES TOTAL TIME: 35 MINUTESS MAKES: 2 SERVINGS

INGREDIENTS 2 bone-in, skin-on chicken breast halves 1 teaspoon chili powder ½ teaspoon kosher salt ¼ teaspoon black pepper ¼ teaspoon ground cumin ¼ teaspoon ground coriander 1/8 teaspoon ground cinnamon 3 teaspoons olive or vegetable oil, divided

INSTRUCTIONS 1. Turn on the oven and set the heat to 450 degrees. 2. Pat the chicken dry. Stir together the seasonings and 1 teaspoon of the oil and rub evenly all over the chicken. 3. Put a heavy ovenproof skillet on the stove, turn the heat to medium-high, and add the remaining 2 teaspoons oil. 4. When the oil is hot, add the chicken, skin side down, and brown well, then flip and brown the other side, about 5 minutes total. 5. Put the skillet in the oven and roast the chicken until just cooked through, 16 to 18 minutes. (Be certain to use pot holders when removing the skillet from the oven.) Transfer the chicken to plates and serve right away.

Sprinkle with spices

Or You Could

Pan sear, then roast

Make it easier: • Use 2 teaspoons curry powder or other premade spice mixture and eliminate the chili, cumin, coriander, and cinnamon. • Instead of browning on the stovetop, cook the chicken in the oven from the beginning—it will take an additional 4 minutes to cook. seasoned

SPRING 2020

13


DINNER PLUS

Pan-Roasted Asparagus

You can find asparagus at the supermarket year-round these days, but spring asparagus is much more likely to be super-fresh and locally grown. In addition to its great flavor and the fact that it’s good for you, it is incredibly quick and easy to cook. This pan-roasted version is a perfect spring side dish. HANDS-ON TIME: 5 MINUTES TOTAL TIME: 15 MINUTES MAKES: 2–3 SERVINGS

INGREDIENTS 1 bunch asparagus, trimmed 2 tablespoons cold water 1 teaspoon olive or vegetable oil ¼ lemon INSTRUCTIONS 1. Put the asparagus, water, and oil in a large skillet. Turn the heat to high and bring to a boil. 2. Cook, shaking the pan occasionally to roll the asparagus, until the water has been absorbed and the asparagus begins to sizzle, about 5 minutes. 3. Transfer the asparagus to a serving dish, squeeze the lemon over the top, and serve right away.

Tip: Trimming Asparagus

The bottom inch or so of asparagus tends to be tough and woody, so it’s best to trim it off before cooking. The easiest way is to line up the spears in a row on a cutting board and slice off all the ends at once. You should cut right where the stalks turn from white to green. 14

SPRING 2020

seasoned


Fresh Fruit Gelée Don’t let the French name scare you off—this is like the just-add-water gelatin dessert that comes in a box, except it tastes better and is much healthier because you make it yourself with real fruit juice. For an extrapretty dessert, use white grape juice so the colorful fruit can shine through. HANDS-ON TIME: 10 MINUTES TOTAL TIME: 4 HOURS MAKES: 4 SERVINGS

INGREDIENTS 2 cups 100% fruit juice (not mango, papaya, kiwi, or pineapple), divided 1 (¼-ounce) envelope unflavored gelatin 1 cup berries or cut-up fruit (not mango, papaya, kiwi, or pineapple) INSTRUCTIONS 1. Put ½ cup of the fruit juice in a small heatproof bowl or large heatproof measuring cup and sprinkle the gelatin over it. (This is called “blooming” the gelatin, and it makes it easier to dissolve later.) 2. Put the remaining 1½ cups juice in a small pot and put the pot on the stove. Turn the heat to medium and bring the juice just to a boil. 3. Carefully pour the boiling juice over the gelatin mixture and stir until the gelatin dissolves, about 2 minutes. 4. Divide the fruit into 4 short glasses or small bowls, then add ½ cup of the gelatin mixture to each. 5. Refrigerate until firm, about 4 hours.

Did You Know?

You can find packets of unflavored gelatin at the supermarket near the other gelatin desserts. Gelatin is made of a protein called collagen, and it works by creating tangles of protein strands that turn a liquid, like juice, into a wiggly solid. But some fruits, such as mango, papaya, kiwi, and pineapple, contain an enzyme called protease that breaks up the protein strands so they can’t form a solid. If you use those fruits, your gelatin won’t set properly. seasoned

SPRING 2020

15


16

SPRING 2020

seasoned


SIDE DISH

Roasted Carrots and Red Onions Earthy carrots and onions come out of the oven sweetly caramelized in this easy dish. Leftovers will keep for up to 3 days, covered and refrigerated, so you can serve them as a side dish one night, then reheat and serve with rice for a great vegetarian meal another night. Choose carrots that are about 1 inch in diameter. If your carrots are smaller, leave them whole; if they’re larger, extend the roasting time slightly. HANDS-ON TIME: 10 MINUTES TOTAL TIME: 55 MINUTES MAKES: 4 SERVINGS

INGREDIENTS ½ pounds carrots, peeled or well 1 scrubbed and halved lengthwise 1 red onion, peeled and cut into 8 wedges 2 tablespoons olive or vegetable oil ½ teaspoon kosher salt ¼ teaspoon black pepper 1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme or 1 teaspoon dried

INSTRUCTIONS 1. Turn on the oven and set the heat to 425 degrees. 2. Toss the carrots, onion, oil, salt, and pepper together on a rimmed baking sheet. Spread the vegetables out in an even layer, making sure the carrots are cut sides down. 3. Roast until the vegetables are tender and the undersides are well browned, 30 to 45 minutes, depending on the size of the carrots. Sprinkle with thyme and serve right away, or cover and refrigerate up to 2 days.

seasoned

SPRING 2020

17


18

SPRING 2020

seasoned


SIDE DISH

Chilled Sesame Spinach This is an adaptation of a classic Japanese salad called gomae. Our version is a little bit sweet, a little bit salty, and plenty peanut-y. As an added bonus, spinach is not just delicious; it’s incredibly healthy—loaded with more vitamins and minerals than almost any food you can eat. HANDS-ON TIME: 15 MINUTES TOTAL TIME: 25 MINUTES MAKES: 4 SERVINGS

INGREDIENTS 1 teaspoon kosher salt 1 (1-pound) bag baby spinach 2 tablespoons peanut butter 2 tablespoons warm water 1 tablespoon rice vinegar or white vinegar 1 tablespoon soy sauce 1 teaspoon honey 2 tablespoons toasted sesame seeds

INSTRUCTIONS 1. Put a large pot of water on the stove, turn the heat to high, and bring the water to a boil. Add the salt and spinach and cook until it is just wilted, about 30 seconds. Drain immediately in a colander and run cold water over the spinach for 1 minute to stop cooking. 2. In a large bowl, whisk together the peanut butter, warm water, vinegar, soy sauce, and honey until smooth and creamy, adding more water if you need to. Stir in the toasted sesame seeds. 3. Lift the cooled spinach out of the colander by the handful and squeeze it to get rid of the extra moisture. Put it in the bowl with the dressing, and toss gently. 4. Serve right away at room temperature, or refrigerate for 30 minutes and serve chilled. Store leftovers in an airtight container in the refrigerator up to 3 days.

Toasting Sesame Seeds

As with all nuts and seeds, toasting really brings out the flavor of sesame seeds. (Try tasting a few before and after toasting, and you’ll see what we mean.) To toast, put a small skillet on the stove over medium heat, add the sesame seeds, and toast, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned, 3 to 5 minutes. Immediately remove the seeds from the pan to prevent them from burning.

seasoned

SPRING 2020

19


FROM ADAM’S PANTRY

Easy Pea Soup This recipe is designed to use 8 ounces of frozen peas (half of a standard 1-pound package), but if you happen to buy peas in a 10-ounce package, go ahead and use the whole thing rather than leave a tiny bit in the bag. And you can use the peas right from the freezer—there’s no need to thaw them. Store any leftover soup in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. It will thicken a little in the fridge, so when you reheat it, stir in a few tablespoons of water or chicken broth until you’re happy with the consistency. BY ADAM RIED HANDS-ON TIME: 20 MINUTES TOTAL TIME: 35 MINUTES MAKES: 2–3 SERVINGS (ABOUT 3 CUPS)

INGREDIENTS 2 teaspoons olive or vegetable oil 1 medium onion, peeled and chopped ¾ teaspoon kosher salt 1 (14.5-ounce) can low-sodium chicken broth ¼ cup water 8 ounces frozen peas (about 1¾ cups) ¼ cup plain yogurt Whole-grain croutons, for garnish (optional, go to www.seasonedmag.org and search “croutons” to make your own) INSTRUCTIONS 1. Put a medium-sized saucepan on the stove, turn the heat to medium, and add the oil. 2. When the oil is hot, add the onion and salt and cook, stirring often, until the onion is soft and golden, about 6 minutes. 3. Add the chicken broth, water, and frozen peas. Raise the heat to medium-high, bring to a simmer, and cook until the peas are bright green and tender, 5 to 7 minutes. Remove the pot from the heat and let the soup rest until it stops steaming, 10 to 15 minutes. 4. Pour the mixture into a blender, add the yogurt, and blend until very smooth. Taste and add more salt if needed. 5. Serve, topped with croutons, if using. Or, if you’d like it hotter, pour the blended soup back into the pot, turn the heat to medium-low, and cook, stirring, to heat it through, about 5 minutes.

Tip: Storing Soup

Before refrigerating or freezing hot soup, bring it to room temperature within 2 hours by putting it in smaller containers and stirring with a metal spoon to release the heat.

20

SPRING 2020

seasoned


Or You Could

• Omit the yogurt and instead add 2 tablespoons pesto when you put the soup in the blender. (You can find jarred pesto near the tomato sauce in the supermarket, or fresh pesto in the refrigerated aisle.) • Add 4 thinly sliced scallions (both white and green parts) to the pot as the mixture cools, before adding the yogurt and blending (it will be warm enough to soften the scallions a little).

Tip: When Frozen Is Better

Fresh peas are wonderful, but unless you grow them in your own garden, it’s hard to get ahold of them before they start to turn starchy. So frozen peas, which are frozen right after harvesting, are often a better choice.

Tip: Blending Hot Liquids

• Cool the mixture slightly before blending it, or else pressure could build up and force the lid off. • Don’t fill the blender jar more than about two-thirds full. • Remove the center cap from the blender lid, and hold a kitchen towel or pot holder over the hole as you blend to absorb the steam. • Start on slow and gradually increase the blender speed to medium-high. • Stop occasionally to scrape down the inside of the blender jar if solids stick to it. seasoned

SPRING 2020

21


COOKING WITH FRIENDS

One-Pot Spring Pasta Who likes to wash dishes? Not us. So, we are big fans of one-pot dishes. We love the classic pasta and vegetable recipe called Pasta Primavera, but that dish is a lot of work. This much easier version calls for just the right amount of water that magically cooks down to create a silky sauce right in the pan, with no need to cook the pasta separately and drain it. HANDS-ON TIME: 25 MINUTES TOTAL TIME: 30 MINUTES MAKES: 4 SERVINGS

INGREDIENTS 12 ounces medium-size pasta, such as penne or fusilli 2 garlic cloves, peeled and thinly sliced 1 teaspoon kosher salt ½ teaspoon black pepper 3½ cups water 1 (10-ounce) bag frozen broccoli florets 1 pint cherry or grape tomatoes, halved 2 tablespoons olive or vegetable oil 1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest ½ cup finely grated Parmesan cheese ½ cup chopped fresh basil leaves (optional) INSTRUCTIONS 1. Put the pasta, garlic, salt, pepper, and water in a large lidded pot with a wide bottom. Put the pot on the stove, turn the heat to high, and bring to a boil. Lower the heat to medium and simmer, stirring often, for 5 minutes. 2. Stir in the frozen broccoli. Return to a boil, then cover. Cook for 3 minutes, then stir in the tomatoes and oil, cover again, and continue to cook for 2 more minutes. 3. Uncover the pot and cook, stirring constantly, until the pasta is done and the water has almost completely evaporated, about 1 minute more. Test the pasta by tasting a single piece; it should be tender but still have some bite to it. 4. Remove from the heat, stir in the lemon zest and Parmesan cheese, and toss well. Serve right away, topped with chopped basil, if using.

22

SPRING 2020

seasoned


Or You Could

You can add any of these in addition to the broccoli, or substitute one or more for the broccoli. • 1 small zucchini or summer squash, thinly sliced • 8 ounces asparagus, trimmed (see page 14) and cut into 1-inch pieces • 2 medium carrots, peeled and thinly sliced • 8 ounces green beans, trimmed and cut into 1-inch pieces • 8 ounces frozen peas (about 1¾ cups)

Other Pastas Instead of penne or fusilli, you can use rotini, farfalle, small shells, or even elbow macaroni in this recipe. In fact, any short pasta shape will work just fine.

seasoned

SPRING 2020

23


LEARNING FROM AN EXPERT

Toni Tipton-Martin In Jubilee, Toni Tipton-Martin shines a new light on African American cooking. This cooking is almost always talked about as “soul food,” and that is definitely part of it. But it is much more than that. As she says, “We hear less … about the cooking that can be traced to free people of color, the well-trained enslaved and skilled working class, entrepreneurs, and the black privileged class. Some prepared luxurious fare for their owners as cooks in plantation kitchens; others built reputations for fancy food ‘in freedom’ as food business operators who established and maintained their independence while building wealth for the next generation.” By showing us both styles—the cuisine developed in the homes of the elite and middle class as well as in the living quarters of the enslaved—TiptonMartin reveals the true nature of this rich and varied cooking that created much of what we know of as American cuisine.

PHOTO: PABLEAUX JOHNSON

Toni Tipton-Martin is a culinary journalist and community activist, and author of The Jemima Code, the James Beard Award–winning history of African American cookbooks, as well as Jubilee: Recipes from Two Centuries of African American Cooking. She was twice invited to the White House to participate in First Lady Michelle Obama’s programs to raise a healthier generation of kids, and is a founding member of the Southern Foodways Alliance and Foodways Texas. 24

SPRING 2020

seasoned


Rice and Peas with Coconut As Toni Tipton-Martin says, “Rice and peas is Jamaica’s ‘coat of arms’ in cooking, and it usually means small beans (peas) and rice simmered with coconut, often also seasoned with a hint of thyme, bay, and cinnamon.” She adds that the coconut milk, rather than overpowering the beans, “adds a creamy quality to the dish, and the taste is subtle and mild.” (Adapted from Jubilee: Recipes from Two Centuries of African American Cooking by Toni Tipton-Martin.) HANDS-ON TIME: 30 MINUTES TOTAL TIME: 1 HOUR 45 MINUTES MAKES: 3–4 SERVINGS

INGREDIENTS ½ cup dried small red beans, picked over for stones, rinsed, soaked in water overnight, and drained 1 small onion, peeled and chopped 1 garlic clove, peeled and minced 1 small dried red chile, left whole (or substitute 1/8 teaspoon crushed red pepper) ½ teaspoon dried thyme 1 bay leaf 1 cinnamon stick (or substitute ½ teaspoon ground cinnamon) 2 teaspoons vegetable oil 1 cup coconut milk (from a 13.5-ounce can, very well mixed before measuring) 2 cups low-sodium chicken broth 1 cup long-grain rice Kosher salt and black pepper

INSTRUCTIONS 1. In a large lidded saucepan, combine all the ingredients except the rice and salt and pepper. 2. Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce the heat to medium-low, cover, and simmer until the beans are just tender, about 1 hour. 3. Meanwhile, place the rice in a bowl and rinse under cool running water until the water is clear. Drain well. 4. Stir the rice into the beans, cover, and cook over low heat until the rice is tender and most of the liquid is absorbed, 20 to 30 minutes longer. 5. Discard the bay leaf and the chile pepper and cinnamon stick, if using, then season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve right away.

Coconut Milk

Coconut milk is not what we usually think of as “milk.” Instead, it is shredded coconut flesh that is pureed with water and strained to create a rich, flavorful white liquid. It’s an important ingredient in the cuisines of Southeast Asian, South Asia, Oceania, and East Africa. It is a very versatile ingredient that adds richness and depth, as well as smooth coconut flavor, to all kinds of dishes. For example, this recipe uses only part of a can of coconut milk. What should you do with the rest of it? • Use it in place of half of the water when making rice. It will make the rice fragrant and extra-fluffy. • Substitute it for cow’s milk on your morning oatmeal. • Freeze it in ice trays and add the frozen cubes to the blender when you make a smoothie; it will give your smoothie a pleasant velvety texture. • Substitute for the dairy in any pureed vegetable soup that you want to make vegan. • Use it in place of one-quarter of the liquid (water or broth) in any tomato-based soup or stew.

seasoned

SPRING 2020

25


SNACK

Easiest Quesadilla Quesadillas are one of the easiest and most delicious snacks around. They also make an excellent light lunch or dinner, particularly if you add one of the many options listed below. HANDS-ON TIME: 10 MINUTES TOTAL TIME: 10 MINUTES MAKES: 2 SERVINGS

INGREDIENTS 2 (10-inch) wholegrain tortillas ½ cup shredded cheddar, Monterey Jack, or Mexicanblend cheese, divided 2 teaspoons olive or vegetable oil, divided Salsa, hot sauce, and/ or plain yogurt, for serving (optional)

26

SPRING 2020

seasoned

INSTRUCTIONS 1. Put one tortilla on a large plate and sprinkle half of the shredded cheese over half of it, leaving about a ¼-inch border. Fold the tortilla over to make a half-moon shape. 2. Put a large skillet on the stove, turn the heat to medium, and add 1 teaspoon of the oil. 3. When the oil is hot, put the filled tortilla in the skillet and cook until the bottom is lightly browned and the cheese is gooey, about 2 minutes. Using a heatproof spatula or tongs, turn the quesadilla over and cook for another 2 minutes. Transfer the cooked quesadilla to a plate. 4. Repeat with the remaining tortilla, cheese, and oil. Cut the quesadillas into quarters, if you like, and serve with your choice of dipping sauce.

Or You Could

Add any or all of these (¼ cup total) to each tortilla when you add the cheese: • Canned or cooked black beans • Corn kernels • Diced tomatoes or bell peppers • Sliced or shredded cooked chicken • Chopped or sliced cooked zucchini, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, mushrooms, or potatoes • Baby spinach or kale


Kitchen Tips and Tricks Sometimes it’s not the big techniques, but the little tricks that count most in the kitchen. Here are a few we like that we learned either from experience or from other cooks.

Reheat Pasta Evenly

Reheating sauced pasta seems straightforward, but it can get tricky. If you just put a bowl of pasta in the microwave, you’re very likely to end up with pasta that is sizzling hot around the perimeter but still cold in the middle. For even warming, form the pasta into a doughnut shape (with a hole in the middle) on a microwave-safe plate.

Avoid Stinky Sponges

Moist kitchen sponges provide a great place for bacteria, mold, and odors to build up. It’s a good idea to put them through the dishwasher occasionally, but on a daily basis, use an upside-down binder clip to keep your sponge upright. That way it dries faster and stays germ- and odorfree for longer.

Weep No More

To avoid the eye-irritating fumes that are released when you chop an onion, peel the onion, then put it in the freezer for about 20 minutes before you chop it. The cold slows down the conversion of sulfides into the gases that sting your eyes. seasoned

SPRING 2020

27


CROSSWORD BY MYLES MELLOR

Across 1 Grinder contents 4 Espresso, e.g. 9 It’s used for draining and straining 10 MIT grad, often 12 It’s often a “light” meal 14 Prepared, as mushrooms 16 Kind of orange 17 She cooks the apple pie 20 South American “supergrain” 22 Pour, as wine 24 Tuna type

28

SPRING 2020

seasoned

25 Middle Eastern dish 28 Include, in a recipe direction 30 Unwanted additive in some take-out food 31 National dish of Scotland 32 Pro chef, for example

Down

1 Burger topping 2 Cornmeal concoction 3 Two or more eras, in geology 5 __tail soup 6 Anise-flavored vegetable 7 Serving of corn

8 Spoon out the right amount 11 Pear-shaped fruit used for jam 13 Fish similar to cod 15 Type of beer sold at a bar 18 Butternut or acorn, e.g. 19 Appetizer 21 It’s on top of a cake 23 Weight abbr. 26 Ambulance crew, abbr. 27 Improve, as wine 29 Polka or micro Answers: Page 30


GET MOVING These exercises were provided to us by David Ellner, a Senior Fitness Specialist in New York (davidellner@hotmail.com). They are designed to improve your ability to maintain your center of gravity. Hold on to the chair if you need it for balance.

For Strength: Chair Squats

For Balance: Toe Lifts

1. Stand with your back to a chair with your feet hip-width apart. 2. Bend your knees while keeping your chest and shoulders upright and your arms outstretched. 3. Lower your bottom so you sit down; then, pushing through the heels, return to a standing position. 4. Repeat five to ten times.

1. Stand behind a chair or counter with your hands on the surface for support. 2. Push yourself up onto your toes as high as possible, then slowly return to the starting position. 3. Repeat ten times.

seasoned

SPRING 2020

29


KITCHEN ESSENTIALS

Small Skillet Whether you call it a skillet or a frying pan, this is an essential tool when cooking for one or two people. And you might as well make it nonstick while you’re at it. We like the T-fal Professional Nonstick 8-inch Fry Pan, which includes a red dot that shows when the pan is hot (about $20).

Box Grater You’ll need a box grater for shredding cheese and vegetables such as carrots, zucchini, and potatoes. Look for one with a soft ergonomic handle and a nonslip bottom, such as the Cuisinart CTG-00-BG Box Grater (about $10).

Crossword key

30

SPRING 2020

seasoned


A special thank you We needed a beautiful and functional place to teach classes and test our recipes, and, thanks to our wonderful sponsors, we now have the perfect space. Thank you to our brilliant designer, Stephen Brockman from Deborah Berke Partners in New York City, for designing our beautiful new kitchen, and to Lee Cook and everyone else at Buildout Construction for their tireless grace and stellar work.

Sponsors and Partners

Friends

seasoned

SPRING 2020

31


WHAT IS …

Feta Cheese Feta is a soft brined white cheese, originally from Greece. It is traditionally made with sheep’s milk, goat’s milk, or a combination of the two, though some versions today are made from cow’s milk. Feta is typically formed into large blocks that are submerged in brine. Its flavor is tangy and salty, ranging from mild to sharp. Feta is a particularly good choice for eating or baking because it has a lower fat content than most other cheeses. It is also very versatile.

Ways to Use Feta • Crumble on top of salads. • Toss with grains, pasta, or roasted vegetables. • Stir into mashed potatoes. • Crumble and stir into scrambled eggs. • Slice and serve along with olives and flatbread as a light lunch. • Cut into small cubes and serve on top of watermelon cubes or halved grapes as a refreshing snack.

32

SPRING 2020

seasoned


Issuu converts static files into: digital portfolios, online yearbooks, online catalogs, digital photo albums and more. Sign up and create your flipbook.