RiverCity September / October 2017
RichmondNavigator.com
JUGGLING DARKNESS & LIGHT OUR INTERVIEW WITH ERIC SLICK
Down By The Riverside In Forest Hill
Meet The
BARTENDERS FALL FUN
RIVER CITY ACTIVITIES
IN SEARCH OF:
GREAT BARBECUE
HAPPY HOUR GUIDE LUSCIOUS LIBATIONS & MORE!
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BARTENDERS
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LAURA LEE’S
RiverCity SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2017
RichmondNavigator.com PRESIDENT // PUBLISHER
William J. Davis, Jr.
VICE-PRESIDENT // PUBLISHER
Cheryl T. Davis
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Steve Cook
ASSISTANT EDITOR
Tammy Wersinger CREATIVE DIRECTOR
Michael Lay
GRAPHIC DESIGNER
Ryan Hooley
CONTRIBUTING GRAPHIC DESIGNER
Joey Wharton
ADVERTISING EXECUTIVES
Bert Horrocks, Cary Webb DISTRIBUTION MANAGER
Jimmy Davis
PHOTOGRAPHERS
Dave Masucci, Josh Young CONTRIBUTORS
Davy Jones Whitney Kiatsuranon Jody Rathgeb
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ADVERTISING
ERIC SLICK
RiverCity magazine is published bimonthly by Advertising Concepts, Inc., 6301 Harbourside Drive, Suite 100 Midlothian, VA 23112 P: 804-639-9994 E: Info@RichmondNavigator.com
In This Issue 02
JUGGLING DARKNESS AND LIGHT Interview with Eric Slick
04
FALL FUN IN THE RIVER CITY Autumn Activities All Over Town
06
OLD CITY HALL
08
DOWN BY THE RIVERSIDE In Forest Hill
12
IN SEARCH OF: Barbecue
ONLINE // SOCIAL
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TASTEBUDZ
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GIRLS BEHIND BARS...AND ONE GUY, TOO Get To Know Your Local Bartender
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HAPPY HOUR GUIDE About Our Cover: Jason Lough, the bar manager at Ya Ya’s Cookbook in Short Pump, provides the guy part to our “Girls (and a Guy) Behind Bars” feature. Many of Richmond’s bartenders have varied and fascinating backgrounds, but they all take their craft seriously. Meet three such masterful mixologists inside. Our cover photograph was captured by Josh Young.
RichmondNavigator.com Facebook.com/RichmondNavigator Twitter.com/RichmondNav GENERAL // EDITORIAL INFORMATION
Contact Us! E: Info@RichmondNavigator.com All rights reserved. Any reproduction in whole or in part of any text, photograph or illustration without written permission from the publisher is prohibited. All articles and contents of this magazine are not necessarily the opinions or thoughts of RiverCity magazine, Advertising Concepts, Inc or the publisher.
River City Live
JUGGLING DARKNESS AND LIGHT:
LOOKING INWARD WITH ERIC SLICK by Davy Jones
S
eventeenth century essayist Owen Feltham wrote “Meditation is the soul’s perspective glass.” Looking inwardly can be especially beneficial if you’re interested in making art that pushes into unexplored creative territory, and that’s just what Eric Slick did by writing and recording Palisades — an album of rock songs that are at once introspective and relatable — demonstrating that you can dive deeper into the self and resurface with something that others find meaningful. One reason Palisades is so successful is Slick’s advanced sense of perspective. He’s part of a winning streak among Richmond musicians, with deep ties to the city’s music community, but he knows what it’s like to look at Richmond as an outsider, having moved here just a couple of years ago. He’s the frontman for two bands, including his eponymous band and another rock group called Lithuania, yet he began his career as a drummer and continues to sit at the kit for renowned Philadelphia indie act, Dr. Dog. We spoke recently about joining this city’s musical family, adjusting to lead singing, and the songwriting process that rendered Palisades. How did you come to live in Richmond?
I’m originally from Philadelphia, but at the end of 2015, my girlfriend [singer Natalie Prass] was like, “You should move to Richmond…” So, 2 RiverCity
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I came down and visited, and it was everything I’d wanted and more. I grew up in Philly, and then I lived in Asheville, North Carolina for a year, so it was kind of like the perfect middle ground. Not too big, not too small, still has a city vibe, but still has a college town vibe to it. I’ve just fallen in love with the town, and I feel really at home here. From a fan’s perspective, it’s really exciting to see you here. Richmond has so much incredible music happening — the Spacebomb [Records] crew alone is enough for me to [say] “Wow, that’s incredible.” But then you also have Butcher Brown, and you have Camp Howard, and you have Spooky Cool and Lucy Dacus. It’s only a matter of time before people start noticing that it’s happening. It reminds me of Philadelphia 15 years ago, because now Philly has become... a really big rock town, whereas before it was mostly R&B and classical and not that much rock or pop coming out of Philly. But with Richmond, you have this wealth of jazz and the [Virginia Commonwealth University] kids who are just incredible musicians. I feel like I’ve barely even dipped my toes into the scene here. How have shows in support of Palisades been going? They’ve been going great. It’s a huge learning curve. I’m primarily a drummer in a band, and I didn’t start writing songs until a couple of years ago. These songs were birthed out of learning how to meditate.
Slick at his post behind the kit performing with Dr. Dog.
I started meditating and my creative life began, outside of drumming. So, it’s all still really new to me, and I’m still navigating how to be at the front of a stage, and how to be a performer. I feel like I’m juggling when I’m up there, but it’s really challenging and exciting and it’s a necessary part of my creative process. When I do go back to the drums now, I have this whole other perspective on how to play drums. One thing that stood out when I saw you at the Camel in March was your engaging stage presence. How do you balance that with the songs’ weighty themes? I think about that a lot, because there are some nights [when] I’m pretty heavy-handed with the stand-up comedy, along with the really dark material, but that’s kind of how I am. I’m really inspired by Twin Peaks, the [TV] show, where you’ll have these really dark moments that are juxtaposed with really light, almost silly moments, because that’s how life is. It’s something that even happened to me last year. I was in a car crash, which is one of the worst things that can ever happen to you, but I was eating an egg sandwich when I was in the car crash, and I was covered in avocado and guacamole. So, I got out of my car, and I’m covered in guacamole. Then the whole rest of the day, I was at the doctor, and I’m covered in guacamole. That kind of dichotomy is how life is. You’re going through this really serious thing, but in order to grieve, you kind of have to laugh at the horrible thing that’s happening to you in order to not have it be so heavy.
What mindset were you in when you wrote Palisades? I would sit and meditate for extended periods of time, and keep my notebook next to me, and whatever came to me as I was clearing out my mind, I would try and write it down. I would leave it all on the page, kind of stream-of-consciousness, and then either fit it to the music, or sometimes the music and the lyrics would happen concurrently, but I would really try to capture them as soon as they were happening... The song “Palisades,” the word “Palisades” just came to me. It wasn’t premeditated. It wasn’t like I was going to sing a song about the Palisades Parkway in New York. I didn’t even know why that happened. The chorus just kind of wrote itself. One song that really resonates is “You Are Not Your Mind” — how there’s something more essential than thoughts. That one is the song I can probably be the most direct about, because there’s literally a chapter in The Power of Now, that book by Eckhart Tolle that you can get at the airport, called “You Are Not Your Mind.” It’s something that I still struggle with — “Don’t think that your reactions are who you are. These are not your identity. They’re just reactions. They don’t define you.” The first time I read that, it totally blew my mind because I’d always assumed I was this person [who] would react poorly to situations or get upset really easily. And I’m definitely hyper-sensitive; I definitely overreact sometimes, but it’s just such good advice. I [thought] “I want to make a song about this... I want to write a song that hopefully encourages people to be better and to not be so impulsive.” Eric Slick plays the Broadberry on Oct. 20.
RichmondNavigator.com 3
Fall Fun in River City by Steve Cook
Richmond Folk Festival see next page
T
hose lazy, hazy, sweltering days of summer are gone. The air is crisp and refreshing. For many, this is the perfect time of year to get out and about and enjoy all that the River City has to offer. One thing that you can count on – if it’s going on in Richmond, there is going to be food. This fall’s events include such fantastic tasting opportunities as Oktoberfest, when we’re all German. There’s also the Fire, Flour and Fork culinary celebration as well as a chance to taste delicious Celtic fare at the Celtic Festival and Highland Games. Music will fill the air during the annual Folk Festival, plus art lovers have a couple of inspiring events planned just for them. Take a look at the lineup.
the river. 75 regional artisans exhibiting the finest arts and crafts available in the area. This annual event, which has developed a loyal following is a great way for artists to show and sell their unique selection of contemporary art. There’ll also be fantastic music and great food to round out the festival. 10 a.m. – 5 p.m. / Visit website for more details – 43rdStGallery.com
OCTOBER 1
Party on the Avenues
SEPTEMBER 28 – OCTOBER 1
Current Art Fair
SEPTEMBER 16
43rd Street Festival of the Arts This is one of the biggies on the south side of 4 RiverCity
September/ October 2017
See website for exhibit hours / General Admission - Free; VIP Party - $50 / Main Street Station, 1500 E. Main St., 804-363-7557 / CurrentRichmond.com
What do you get when the region’s leading galleries join together to create an exhibit of the new and innovative works from local, national and internationally recognized artists? You get the Current Art Fair, to be held at Main Street Station. A VIP Preview Party will be held on Thursday, September 28. General admission to the exhibit is free and open to the public.
The streets (Libbie and Patterson Avenues area) are alive with the sound of music, the tastes of great food, craft beer and wine and the sounds of cash registers ringing in the charming shops that dot “The Avenues.” Noon – 6 p.m. / Free / Libbie Avenue, between Guthrie and Patterson, 804-307-6533 / PartyOnTheAvenues.com
cluding highland dancing, hurling, and harp and fiddle competitions. The Vendor Village is home to jewelry, traditional Celtic food, pottery, and the always popular, kilts. See website for hours and ticket information / Richmond Raceway, 600 E. Laburnum Ave., 804-3561093 / VACelticFestival.com
OCTOBER 13 – 15
Richmond Folk Festival This annual celebration of the roots, richness and variety of American culture through music, dance, traditional craft and food has quickly become one of the city’s most popular events, drawing visitors from across the country. The Richmond Folk Festival is produced by Venture Richmond in partnership with the National Council for the Traditional Arts (NCTA). See website for performance schedule / Free / Riverfront (2nd – 7th Streets, 804-788-6466 / RichmondFolkFestival.org
OCTOBER 20 – 21
Richmond Oktoberfest Patterned after Munich’s world-famous Oktoberfest, the Richmond Oktoberfest (the oldest in Virginia) combines a great party with the preservation of the German heritage. Eat authentic German food and drink a variety of German & domestic beers. Dance to polkas, waltzes, American standards and more. Friday 6 – 11 p.m.; Saturday – 3 – 11 p.m. / $15; $12 – 65 and older, active military, National Guard & Reserves; Free – 15 & under / Old Dominion Building, Richmond Raceway, 600 E. Laburnum Ave., 804-3420310 / RichmondOktoberfestInc.com
OCTOBER 28 – 29
Central Virginia Celtic Festival & Highland Games
NOVEMBER 2 – 5
Fire, Flour & Fork This four-day culinary event, organized by Real Richmond Food Tours, celebrates the best Richmond has to offer. Enjoy a highly curated mix of dining events, demonstrations, talks, tours, food producers, cookbook authors, visiting chefs with Virginia ties, culinary historians and craft spirit makers. See website for locations, times and pricing – FireFlourAndFork.com
This is a celebration of all things Celtic, in-
Central Virginia Celtic Festival & Highland Games
RichmondNavigator.com 5
Old City Hall very grand and ‘very Richmond’
Photo: Library of Congress
by Jody Rathgeb
Ambitious, showy, unbowed and proud. The same words that describe Richmond in the decades following the Civil War also apply to one of its flashiest landmarks, Old City Hall. Currently owned by the commonwealth and leased to the Historic Richmond Foundation, the grand edifice that covers a whole city block has a history that mirrors Reconstruction pride and ambition. It also has Richmond’s dogged determination to survive modernization, including two threats to its very existence. 6 RiverCity
September/ October 2017
iron atrium that is considered a high point for cast iron architecture in the city. Snyder also provided the grills and fencing for Old City Hall’s exterior.
Taking it for granite
Photo: Tom Rathgeb
Despite the building’s pedigree, demolishing it was considered in 1915, when a proposal was made to create a mall extending north from the Capitol. Old City Hall survived the proposal. Then, even though it had been placed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1969, it was considered again for demolition in 1971 as today’s City Hall took over its functions. This time, it was saved through the efforts of the Historic Richmond Foundation and was designated a U.S. National Historic Landmark in 1971. The significant preservation victory was followed by rehabilitation in the early 1980s, including the restoration of its interior colors. Because of its landmark designation and accompanying protections from development, Old City Hall is unlikely to be threatened again. Today’s Old City Hall houses a number of state and local offices, including several construction companies, the Department of General Services, some Virginia Commonwealth University offices, the Virginia Wine Marketing Board and the Virginia Commission for the Fine Arts. The first floor is open to the public and can be visited for free Monday through Friday from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m.
The building’s grand beauty tempts one to call it “madam” and give a courtly little bow. Finished in 1894, Old City Hall has a High Victorian Gothic design, with buttresses, pointed arches, asymmetrical towers and an interior atrium with uplit floors, skylight and three floors of arcaded galleries. It gives a European aspect to its location, bounded by 10th and 11th streets to its west and east, and by Broad and Capitol on its northsouth axis. It measures 170 by 140 feet, and its seven-story clock tower soars to 195 feet.
Richmond’s original city hall and courthouse stood on this site from 1816 to 1875. When the State Capitol collapsed in 1870, it was suspected that this original building had the same structural problems, so work began to replace it, under the leadership of City Engineer Wilfred Cutshaw. After a national architectural competition, the design of Elijah Myers of Detroit was chosen. Myers was known for designing the state capitols of Michigan, Colorado, Texas and Idaho, but his elaborate design for Richmond turned out to be a bit rich for the city. Bids for the massive and ornate building came in far over budget, and despite Cutshaw’s attempt to keep costs down, the project ended with a $1.3 million price tag as opposed to the $300,000 estimate. The overruns, however, did show off some of Richmond’s best. The building’s ashlar (square-cut) granite blocks were quarried locally along the James River. Masonry subcontractor James Netherwood had his workers use steam-driven saws and specialty polishing tools to create a detailed exterior for the largest granite building in the Richmond area. For the interior, Richmond iron founder Asa Snyder created the cast
Photo: Tom Rathgeb
Building a better city
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I N FO R EST H I LL by Whitney Kiatsuranon
(Editor’s note: Whitney has been a homeowner in Forest Hill since 2013. She admits that some of her personal bias may shine through in the following article about her favorite local neighborhood.)
W
hen one thinks of Forest Hill, one might first think of the South of the James farmers market, Mrs. Yoder’s donuts (at the market) and perhaps the area’s great running trails. What many who don’t live in this part of town may not realize is that Forest Hills, located just outside of Downtown Richmond, is one of the most coveted neighborhoods in the Metro Richmond area. In Forest Hills, you can enjoy a suburban lifestyle within an urban setting. But between the urban amenities and the suburban community lifestyle, I, personally, can’t imagine why a young professional, new parents or even seniors would not flock to this neighborhood. Indeed, many are.
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Photo: Joey Wharton
Down by the Riverside
Photo: Joey Wharton
Photo: Joey Wharton
Let’s start with the neighborhood’s basics; its proximity to the James River Park system. If you love the outdoors, the sun and the water, you’ll love being within walking distance of both the James River and Forest Hill parks with all the amenities they have to offer. “I love the diversity… I also love the proximity to everything,” says Sara Lahmann, a longtime resident of the neighborhood. “My favorite place to eat in the neighborhood is O’Tooles.” Sara also says that she tries to make it to the river as often as possible with her children and dogs. Genevieve Rowley who lives just off Forest Hill Avenue has been a resident of the neighborhood for eight years. “I love the green spaces, the park, lake, river, the eclectic neighbors and the fact that the area is very dog friendly,” she says, adding that her family also enjoys dining at O’Tooles, as well as The Galley, Laura Lee’s and Ruang Tong. (see For More Information below) As regards dining in the neighborhood, don’t forget Crossroad’s Coffee, which has long been a personal favorite of mine. It is always busy. Heading west from Forest Hill Park, you come to the 43rd Street Gallery at 1412 W. 43rd
St. – the focal point for the 43rd Street Festival of the Arts, which occurs every year and boasts many local artisans and tons of neighborly support. The gallery has been here for 32 years and was a neighborhood grocery store in earlier times, according to Robin Cage, owner of the gallery. “We have a pottery studio on site where we make much of the work (exhibit-
ed) in the gallery,’’ Gage says, adding that the gallery represents over 20 local artisans and brings in other American handmade goods for a wide variety of work, including jewelry, wood, glass and mixed media. Her pottery studio offers small classes for beginner students,
Laura Lee’s on Semmes Avenue presents Southern classics in a comfy and casual atmosphere.
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who want to try their hand at clay, and the gallery is a great place for gifts if you’re seeking unique, handmade items. Regarding the annual festival, Cage says, “We started the 43rd Street Festival 26 years ago to offer local artisans a good, small show to sell their work and a way to bring energy into the community.” It offers a fantastic line up of music and good food, with activities and street art for the kids. She says the neighborhood has been very supportive of the gallery and the festival. “It is amazing how much Forest Hill has flourished in recent years, with the Farmer’s Market, coffee shops, new restaurants and, of course, the draw of the James River and Forest Hill Park,’’ Cage says. “I love being here and appreciate all that the area has to offer.”
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There’s still more to discover in Forest Hill. Keep heading west until you stumble upon another little pocket offering two of the area’s favorite restaurants, the aforementioned O’ Toole’s and Maldini’s Ristorante Italiano. Based on the resume of its creators, Johnny Giavos and Chris DiLauro, I’m sure the soon-to-open Little Nickel, a Caribbean-inspired eatery at 4702 Forest Hill Ave., will also please the masses. I can personally vouch for the awesome neighborhood yard sales, the block parties and the food truck courts. If you have never visited, I am confident in recommending Forest Hill as a neighborhood you do not want to miss. That brings us back to one of the “stars” of the community, the South of the James Farmer’s Market, or the SOJ, as residents refer to it. There is no better place in all of Richmond in which to snag fresh produce, homemade donuts, local honey and other handmade artisan crafts. The market is open every Saturday, year-round. Head on over to the market this weekend. Chances are I’ll be there for breakfast and perusing some of my favorite vendors.
For More Information:
Crossroads Coffee & Ice Cream – A popular neighborhood hangout serving coffee, sandwiches, desserts and lots of live music: 3600 Forest Hill Ave.; 804-231-2030; CrossroadsRVA.com Galley – Contemporary New American café: Stratford Hills Shopping Center, 2805 Hathaway Rd.; 804-323-1117; GalleyKitchen.info Laura Lee’s – Southern classics prepared in some not-so-classical ways: 3410 Semmes Ave.; 804-233-9672; LauraLeesRVA.com Maldini’s Ristorante Italiano – Familiar Italian restaurant, preparing brick-oven pizzas, sandwiches and classic Italian dishes; 4811 Forest Hill Ave.; 804-230-9055; MaldinisRestaurant.com O’Toole’s Restaurant & Pub – A popular pub, serving Irish classics and bar food: 4800 Forest Hill Ave.; 804-233-1781; O’ToolesRestaurant.com
Photo: Joey Wharton
Ruang Tong Thai Cuisine – Traditional Thai favorites: Stratford Hills Shopping Center, 6790 Forest Hill Ave.; 804-612-8616; RuangTongThaiCuisine.com
RichmondNavigator.com 11
Photo: Josh Young
The Halligan Bar & Grill
3 N. 17th St.; 804-447-7981; TheHalliganBar.com
Baby Back Ribs “You may not know anyone when you walk in, but you’ll know twenty people when you leave,” says owner Shawn Gregory. The Halligan Bar & Grill has three locations serving up their barbecue specialties as well as that welcoming Halligan’s atmosphere. To quench your summer BBQ craving, try their dry-rubbed baby back ribs, which highlight the Southern sweetness and vinegary-tang characteristic of the North Carolina style of barbecuing. The ribs, here, are served with Halligan’s hand-cut slaw, cornbread and BarB-Q baked beans.
Photo: Josh Young
Deep Run Roadhouse
309 N. Laurel St.; 804-740-6301; DeepRunRoadhouse.com
Roadhouse Platter (Texas brisket, smoked chicken, Texas spare ribs) Most people would be content with one food specialty, but not the folks at Deep Run Roadhouse. Executive Chef Andrew Griffin has the utmost confidence in the authentic Texas brisket, but that’s not stopping him from seeking perfection in the rest of their Tex-Mex and BBQ offerings. Roadhouse platters are sure to satisfy with their brisket, smoked chicken, Texas spare ribs and Deep Run’s famous Swayze and Roadhouse sauces. The meats are perfectly complemented with the cornbread topped with honey butter, green beans and the jalapeno mac and cheese.
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Buz and Ned’s Real Barbecue 1119 N. Boulevard; 804-355-6055; BuzAndNeds.com
Rib Platter After 25 years in the business, Buz Grossberg is still using the same process and recipes today that put his barbecue on the map over two decades ago. It’s all 100-percent woodsmoked meats, and his meticulous attention to detail shines when it comes to Buz and Ned’s variety. Pictured here are the spare ribs, baby-backs, and beef ribs (clockwise,) served with slaw, hush puppies and baked beans). All pay tribute to Buz’s goal of serving authentic and delicious barbecue. Photo: Josh Young
MORE THAN RiverCity
IRON HORSE RESTAURANT Modern Seasonal Southern Cuisine in the heart of historic Ashland. Live Music Fri-Sun | Sunday Brunch 10-2:30 Sunday Supper Family Style 5-8:30
Read Our Publications Online
navigator.com 804-639-9994
IronHorseRestaurant.com | 804-752-6410 | 100 S. Railroad Ave., Ashland RichmondNavigator.com 13
tastebudz by Steve Cook
This issue of TasteBudz has its Ups and Downs as you will see once you read it. So, read it.
UP ON THE ROOF: Things are looking up at Kabana Rooftop at 7th and Main. While offering a fantastic view of the city, Kabana’s cuisine wasn’t as impressive as the view. Sure, the view is still amazing, but now, this popular restaurant/lounge has relaunched their menu with an entirely new concept. Led by newly appointed Executive Chef Mike Ledesma, the new menu will move away from standardized hotel lounge menu fare to what they’re calling, “More approachable, classic dishes with an epicurean twist, infusing local ingredients and innovative flavors.” If it tastes as great as it sounds, I’m ready to start nibbling. And given Mike’s reputation, I’m thinking it will all be very good. Small plates on the new menu include Crab Gazpacho, which is made with cold tomato, cucumber, red peppers and jumbo lump crab; Hush Puppy Fried Oyster crusted with cornmeal and served with succotash and chili vinaigrette; Tuna Poke Bowl with cucumbers, truffle soy sauce, seaweed, avocado, rice and chili aioli; and the Top Floor Burger with angus beef, local pimento cheese and a jalapeno cheddar bun. HARD SHELL LIGHT: No, it’s not a new restaurant or an inferior knockoff. But according to Leandra Dunlevy, director of operations for the Richmond Restaurant Group, the Shockoe Bottom Hard Shell Restaurant (1411 E. Cary St.) has had a redo, décor-wise. Leandra describes the restaurant as “lighter and brighter.” Plus, she tells me that they’ve added a Happy Hour from 3 to 7 p.m. each day in the bar and on the patio. Don’t worry, the menu that you’ve come to know and love remains the same. 14 RiverCity
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A PIZZA PLACE BY ANY OTHER NAME: I have to admit that I hadn’t been to Ironclad Pizza Grill at 924 McDonough Street in Manchester until I received word that they were changing their name. I got on the horn and asked owner Robert Martin about the change to Ironclad Sports Bar and Grill. He made the whole place sound so enticing that I jumped in my car and headed over to Manchester. Am I glad I did! First things first, removing “pizza” from the name didn’t mean that pizzas are off the menu. That’s good news. While there, I ordered a pizza and let me tell you, it was fantastic. I was just going to have a beer at the bar and chat with Robert, but so many of the regulars there – a friendly bunch, at that – kept telling that I needed to try the pizza. I did. I’m glad I did. Anyway, Robert told me “Our menu is still the same. We’re still rolling out pizzas. But the theme of our restaurant’s interior has drastically moved to a sports theme So we just adjusted our name to reflect that.” The rather small restaurant has big screen TVs almost wall to wall. Robert said he was even considering adding another TV to the patio in back of the restaurant. But bottom line is this: Even if you hate sports, even if you hate TV, you’re going to love the friendly staff, the neighborly neighbors who hang out in this spot and the truly delicious pizzas. Speaking of which, they have a pizza buffet weekdays from 11 a.m. until 2 p.m. I haven’t gotten to that yet, but I will. Believe me I will. A CAPITOL IDEA: Brad Barzoloski, who already operates The Luncheonette in Shockoe Bottom (104 N. 18th St) as well as the Luncheonette Northside (10 E. Brookland Park Blvd.) opened a third location in late August. Brad’s new place to be called The Capitol Waffle Shop, is located at 1110 E. Main Street in the Capitol Place building. Waffles, Brad tells me, are the feature attraction, but these are not your everyday waffles, although I’m guessing you can get those, too. “We’re offering a bunch of different sweet and savory waffles, plus a lot of lunch classics,” he says. These lunch classics, include such mouth-watering dishes as his bacon-jalapeno waffle and his Reuben waffle. In speaking with Brad, I learned about not just his waffles shop, but also his rather unique concept to operating restaurants. His restaurant
group, which he operates under the Barzo Restaurants banner, offers the staff the opportunity and freedom to take a large degree of ownership when it comes to the menu. “It’s more about the staff (than myself),” he says. “I encourage them to put their own items on the menu.” In fact, in the Shockoe Slip Luncheonette, he says there’s a whole “menu off the menu” made up of dishes his staff has created. It’s a concept that encourages everyone to take an entrepreneurial approach to the business. “I’d love to see 100 other restaurants branch off from mine,” he says. “And I’ll be the first to invest.” To that end, he provides access for his staff to do an occasional pop up in one of his Luncheonettes. He says he’s looking into a pop up ice cream shop as proposed by one of the servers. While he’s been the corporate route, including several years with Ruby Tuesday, Brad understands the importance of guidelines, but doesn’t want the business to be run by unnecessary restrictions. “We’re always coming up with something new,” he says. “I never know what it will be.” ONE GOOD THAI DESERVES ANOTHER: One of our favorite Taste Budz, Whitney Kiatsuranon shares a recent dining experience. She visited a Thai restaurant near the VCU Campus. Now, since Whitney’s family operate several excellent Thai restaurants, themselves, you may think that’s strange. But, that’s our Whitney. Here’s her report: One of the things I love the most about living in the city proper is there is no shortage of places to eat. I recently discovered Nisa Thai (118 S. Belvidere), which is on campus. The restaurant is light on the budget but heavy on your taste buds packing powerful flavors with a variety of food options. The menu also includes Japanese, Laotian and Vietnamese and features rice and noodle dishes. If you don’t feel like leaving your couch, this place delivers all of their dishes straight to your door. Stop by and check them out or call them up and let them deliver straight to your stomach in the comfort of your own home. DOWN BY THE RIVERSIDE: I spoke with the fine folks at Steam Bell Beer Works in Chesterfield County. They’re quite excited about an event coming up on the 22nd of September. They’ll be participating in. It’s Massey Alliance’s 8th Annual Massey on the River. This fundraising event, sponsored by CoStar Group, supports critical life-saving research at VCU Massey Cancer Center. Plan to enjoy a final fling of summer on Mayo Island with a bunch of your friends and about 800 cancer advocates and dance the summer night away to the tunes of Three Sheets to the Wind – that’s the name of the group, in case you were wondering. Ticket prices are $50 ($75 VIP) and that includes all you can eat as well as all the beer (including some of Steambell’s excellent brews) and wine you can drink (responsibly, of course). For tickets or for more information about the event or about the Massey Cancer Center, visit MasseyOnTheRiver.org.
Hey, how about you lending a hand with TasteBudz. Why should we have to do all the heavy eating? If you have restaurant news you’d like to announce or maybe you simply want to share a great recent dining experience, we want to hear from you. Email us at TasteBudz@RichmondNavigator.com
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Girls Behind Bars...And One Guy, Too by Steve Cook
Hillbillie or Mad Scientist?
Emily Sanders – The Stables at Belmont 201 N. Belmont Ave. Emily Sanders is definitely one of the most fascinating interview that I’ve ever done. Emily is a young lady who in following her passions, has traveled down a rather unique path. “I was raised by lawyers,” she says. Both of her parents were attorneys in Northern Virginia. Her father worked for President Clinton. However, at age 13, Emily tired of doctors and lawyers and the high-powered social events to which she was often taken by her parents. “I also hated all of the concrete in D.C.,” she says. So, she picks an arts and farming-centered boarding school in Wyoming and moves there. “The educational program at the school focused on woodworking, culinary, botany and entomology. After high school, Emily heads to Richmond for college, where she pursued a curriculum in psychology. Her hope was to be able to work with children with autism, which she has done since leaving school. While in college, she began working part-time in local restaurants. That experience provided the opportunity to combine her foraging and culinary skills with the science of mixology. Considering her education and life’s experiences, I wanted to know if she saw bartending as her career. “That’s a heavy question,” she says, “asking me what I want to do for the rest of my life.”
She is contemplating enrolling in a course offered by the Savanah College of Arts and Design. “It involves foraging, forestry, botany and the science of creating different smells for medicinal and homeopathic products.” “But for now, she says, “I’m enjoying all the beautiful people in Richmond. I love living in Church Hill. It and Forest Hill are my favorite places in Richmond. Maybe I’m a hillbilly. Should you spell that with an ‘ie’? She continues, “I enjoy going to the river and recording tiny sounds, hoping to create unique music with them.” Now, that’s a pursuit no one has ever mentioned to me before. Oh, and one more thing, she also has a molecular gastronomy kit and is experimenting with creating unique caviars. “Maybe I’m just a mad scientist,” she concludes. While there’s nothing mad about her recipe for a favorite drink that can be enjoyed when you visit The Stables, there may be some science involved. She calls the drink, “Coming in Hot for the Stables.” The recipe includes Hornitos Reprisado Tequila, prickly pear puree, a house-made habanero and charred pineapple simple syrup and ginger beer.
A Story With Every Drink Jason Lough – Ya Ya’s Cookbook 11674 W. Broad St.
Jason Lough, the bar and front-of-house manager at Ya Ya’s Cookbook in the Downtown Short Pump shopping center, located at Broad Street and Pouncey Tract Road, takes a very simplistic approach to the art (science) of mixology. He says there are really only nine or ten different drinks. Everything else is just a variation of the same basic recipes. What makes Jason one of the city’s more unique bartenders is his propensity for telling a good story. For him, every drink has its own story. And Jason definitely knows how to tell them. Since making the drink is simple, he adds to the entertainment aspect by sharing his stories with his guests as he as he prepares each drink. Using his formula of three basic ingredients plus bitters, Jason says he has 16 RiverCity
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it timed out to finish the story as he hands the drink to the patron. “The punchline comes with the first sip,” he says. On our visit, Jason prepared a drink he calls “Ten Knots to Nowhere.”
The term is a nod to his stint in the U.S. Navy, where he was a submariner. He says the term refers to traveling through the sea but not heading to any specific destination. Does he have a story to go with the drink, which consists of Madeira and Navy strength gin? Need you ask? “We were going to do a burial at sea,” he recalls beginning the story. “I was asked to put on my Navy blues for the photo that would accompany the burial.” Jason continues to paint a picture, using a bunch of submariner terms with which I’m totally unfamiliar. He describes the event so vividly that feel as if I’m there with him. On the bridge, Jason strapped on a harness and was handed the box of ashes. He took a handful of the ashes and tossed them to the wind.
“What do we do with the rest of the box,” he asked his commanding officer. “Toss it,” He was told. “So, I heave the box,” Jason continues. “It crashes against the sub, splits open and white ashes fall in the water. I told my officer that I felt bad about disposing of the remains in such a manner.” “Don’t,” he was told. “He hasn’t been at sea for 30 years.” In concluding the story, Jason waxes somewhat eloquently: “I felt so tiny sitting on the water on top of the submarine, watching the sunset. There was nothing else except us as far as you could see. It was the most beautiful day. It was the best.” “Where were you at the time,” I ask. His reply: “Ten knots to nowhere.” Chances are, if you order the drink, you’ll hear the same story. Only, he’ll tell it much better than I just did. When asked what advice he’d give to someone who wants to create the perfect home bar, Jason replies, “Don’t believe the hype. Get what you like. Don’t have a brand that you can’t afford.” Of course, if you’re creating your own bar, you’ll have to come up with your own stories.
The Joy of Creating
Sophia Kim – Saison – 23 Marshall St. A love of creativity is key with Sophia Kim. It’s what has brought her to where she is today. After high school, the Northern Virginia native pursued an education in nursing. “If you had told me then that I was going to be a bartender, I would have said, ‘No way. I’m going to be a nurse or a teacher.’” And, although she does love teaching children, for the time being, creating beautiful craft cocktails is a main focus. She described the rather circuitous route that brought her to Richmond and to a career behind the bar. While in nursing school, she visited Richmond. “I knew in my heart that I had to be here,” she recalls. “I came for a visit and fell in love (with the city).” That was in 2004. About two years later she moved to Richmond and changed both her school and her educational goals. She had previously decided that nursing was not in her future. So, she finished her education at VCU with degrees in International Studies and Social justice. While in school, she began working in Sticky Rice restaurant making sushi. She says that the thing she enjoyed about that job was the joy in creating something with her hands. Following her stint, there, she worked in other restaurants and did some bartending, but it wasn’t until she went to work at Dutch and Co., that she learned the art of mixing craft cocktails. “They have a fantastic bar program she said.” Although she loved the creative aspect of mixology, Sophia still wasn’t settled on what she wanted to do with her life. “I love to travel. I tried to leave Richmond and spent a few years traveling back and forth.” During this period in her life, she went to Boulder Colorado, where she trained to teach the Montessori method of education and upon her return to Richmond she did a stint as a teacher in a local Montessori school. Explaining her return to bartending, she says, “I really love the restau-
rant industry. This is where I like to be…making something. I like to work with my hands.” She also loves the social aspect of bartending, saying that it provides a joy not unlike that which she experienced as a teacher. “It was awesome interacting with the kids.” As a bartender, Sophia enjoys both the interaction well as the passion of creating something that others will enjoy. “Every drink matters,” she says. “I want each drink to be the very best it can be. I enjoy educating my guests.” And as any good teacher would do, Sophia continues to further her education. Even when traveling she seeks to discover what other bartenders are doing. For our visit, she prepared a drink that she calls the Metadaisy. “It’s a riff on a margarita,” she says. “The Spanish word for daisy is margarita.” As for the “Meta,” Sophia says that’s a nod to a similar drink she had tasted in Meta, a downtown Louisville Kentucky bar. While Sophia can’t predict what she may be doing in ten to fifteen years, for now, you can enjoy watching her work her art and perhaps doing a bit of educating behind the bar in the popular Jackson Ward restaurant. “I still enjoy teaching, but, for now, I really love being at Saison.” RichmondNavigator.com 17
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HAPPY HOUR GUIDE Best Friends Forever at Eleven Months
2915 West Cary Street Road; 804-353-6000; ElevenMonths.co Best Friends Forever is the current moniker being used for this saucy popup restaurant, which creates new themes on a rotating 11-month schedule. They opened this past May so get there quickly before you your 11 months are up. Monday through Sunday 4 to 7 p.m. Rail drinks - $1 off Wine, by the glass - $2 off Beer, drafts - $1 off One more thing: Be sure to check out their weekly specials, such as Punch Drunk Sundays, when their punch of the day is $4. Other specials include: Happiness Wednesdays offering extended happy hour until 9 p.m. and Date night Thursdays with $15 bottles of wine.
Lucy’s Restaurant
404 N. 2nd Street; 804-562-1444; Lucys2St.com There’s lots to love about this quaint, cozy establishment. But the big draw is the beef. All of it comes from Amanda Lucy’s family farm, Monrovia Farm, where the primary focus is on raising Black Angus and Black Angus Cross beef cattle. Tuesday – Friday 5 to 6:30 p.m. (bar only) Beer, draft - $2 off Wine, glass - $2 off House cocktails - $2 off Appetizers - $2 off One More Thing: Lucy’s offers a great brunch on Saturdays and Sundays from 10 in the morning until 2 in the afternoon.
JULEP’S
420 E. Grace St.; 804-377-3968; Juleps.net
Carytown Sushi
2923 West Cary St.; 804-355-0058; FB – CarytownSushi.com A Carytown staple. Go for the sushi and stay for the Happy Hour or vice versa. Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday 5 to 7 p.m. Tuesday and Wednesday – Select rolls – ½ off. Thursday – PBR – $1; Hot sake – ½ off One more thing: Cool down with mochi, featuring two scoops of mochi ice cream for $3.95.
Flora
203 North Lombardy St.; 804-355-0434; FloraRVA.com This new, popular spot in the fan area is sure to tantalize your taste buds with exotic dishes such as roasted crickets.
Southern charm combines with Southern cuisines that capture the flair and the flavor of Charleston, Savanah, New Orleans and Atlanta. Monday through Friday 5 – 7 p.m. Juleps offers “$5 @ 5:00” - all items on the Happy Hour menu are just $5 and include: Mixed drinks – house brand Julep’s Signature Jim Beam Mint Julep Beer, 12-ounce draft Wine – select red and white, by the glass Fried Green Tomatoes with peppadew, aolia, house-made pimento cheese New Orleans Boudin Balls – sausage, pimento glaze, caramelized honey, Virginia peanuts Chicken liver pate served with strawberry jam, pickled radish, Cipollini onion One More Thing: Julep’s offers bi-monthly wine pairing dinners. The next is scheduled for September 21.
Tuesday through Sunday 5 to 7 p.m. Frozen drinks – ½ off Beer, drafts - ½ off Wine, red and white – ½ off ½ off tacos One more thing: Free chips and salsa every day during happy hour.
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