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The most honorable four-letter word in the English language, is ‘Love’ and ‘Skills’ is its perfect partner. The ‘In-Laws’ are, Creativity on the Love side, and Education on the Skills side. A marriage made in heaven! Fur is a sacred material created by nature. We respect it and within this marriage, we use it with love and skills to create another beauty... With belief and loving care, one can create beauty. We must honor our beliefs and emotions and offer gratitude to the creatures that have provided us with their precious coats. With our skills and creativity, we should graciously re-incarnate the beauty of their coats into another kind of life. For centuries, man has done the same.
Our skills and knowledge have touched hundreds of people throughout the world. They brought love with them, and we taught them the skills. We laid the table, and they came and ate. We filled their cup, and they drank...! ... and they laid our table, and filled our cups, and smiled as they left. “I love my hands. They are my friends. I see my pain in them, my happiness. My joy and my sadness. I know the world through them. Whatever they do, they are in charge. They are my tool. My skilful, sacred tool!” Professor Basil Kardasis – 2014
PIA BLOMSTRÖM & BASIL KARDASIS
Love of Skills -Creating Future of Fur
Contents page 6
Foreword
page 7
Fur education at Centria University of Applied Sciences
page 26 page 54
Creative workshops
page 80
International Fairs
page 82
Acknowledgements
FutureFURstudio
LOVE OF SKILLS Centria ammattikorkeakoulu. B, Ajankohtaista - Aktuellt, 6.2013 ISSN 2341-7838 ISBN 978-952-6602-48-6 Graphic design ANNA WALLENDAHL, AWA IDEA Translation and proofreading JOHANNA HĂ„GGBLOM PIETARSAARI 2014
Kokkola-Pietarsaari Unit Runeberginkatu 8 68600 Pietarsaari FINLAND www.centria.fi www.centria.fi/futurefurstudio pia.blomstrom@centria.fi Mobile +358 (0)50 3368746
Foreword Kimmo Riusala, Development Planner, Regional Council of Ostrobothnia
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An undisputed fact is that Ostrobothnia is the centre of fur farming in Finland. The fur industry is a very important employer and source of tax revenue especially in the rural municipalities of Ostrobothnia. The Regional Council of Ostrobothnia has always emphasized the importance of fur farming in the Regional Strategy, which defines the most important development efforts in the region. The FutureFURstudio project aims to raise the global awareness of Finnish and Ostrobothnian fur design and broaden the different ways of utilizing fur in fashion and design products. The project is co-funded by the European Regional Development Fund. When this foreword was written, there were only a couple project activities undone. The FutureFURstudio project has already achieved most of the objectives set in the project plan. The project has been a very active and innovative actor in the development of the Ostrobothnian fur industry. The project has also won the trust and support of the local fur breeders and their interest groups, who have e.g. provided financial support for activities which could not receive project funding.
An old phrase states that a picture is worth a thousand words. If that is true, the book you are holding in your hand contains more words than an average thick novel. Well over 150 pictures demonstrate the innovative and unique work that has been done in the project’s international and cross-disciplinary workshops. When browsing through this kind of book, it is easy to forget the amount of creative efforts and hard work that was done before these beautiful photographs could be taken. Furthermore, the importance of proficient photographers and layout designers cannot be overestimated. But above all, just enjoy and be inspired!
The FutureFURstudio-project (2011-2014) was financed by the Regional Council of Ostrobothnia and received financial support from Jakobstad Region Development Company Concordia, Vaasa Region Development Company Vasek, from Finnish Fur Breeders’ Association and fur farmers in the region (Svenska Österbottens Pälsdjursodlarförening) as well as from the following municipalities: Jakobstad, Nykarleby, Kronoby, Pedersöre, Vörå, Malax, Korsholm and Korsnäs.
Love of Skills -Creating Future of Fur Pia Blomström, The Project Manager, FutureFURstudio
FutureFURstudio The EU-funded FutureFURstudio-project served the whole fur trade and design field: companies, designers, teachers and students. The aim was to encourage the use of fur in totally new areas. In the project, activities corresponding to the needs of the design companies were developed, an open and innovative environment was created and the design knowledge was developed on international basis. The project also created new networks between designers and manufactures. The project was carried out by Centria University of Applied Sciences which is the only university specialized in education within fur design and marketing. The university degree was introduced in 1996 and has grown stronger and stronger with the support of the fur farmers of the region and professional, international visitors who have worked with us to construct this unique education. Love of Skills by FutureFURstudio This booklet is presenting the development of fur design and the outcomes of the creative workshops with invited designers and craftsmen from different sectors. Through the project it has been possible to invite professionals from Finland and abroad to join the
workshops. During the creative workshops the international groups worked closely together as a team and created inspiriting collections with different themes. International fairs –visibility to Finnish furs CENTRIA has been invited as an exhibitor to many different events in Finland and yearly to several international fashion fairs.There is a strong knowhow and great materials in Finland and we are very grateful to have had the possibility to give Finnish furs more visibility on an international level. Internationalization is done in the easiest way through networks and cooperation and that is exactly what the FutureFURstudio-project was about. FutureFURstudio has done constant work to find new people and new ways of using fur. Our belief is that the wonders of fur are endless, and our aim is to maintain and broaden its use and its beauty and use it with respect. We would like to express our heartfelt thanks to all companies and organizations in Finland and abroad for the constant support – it has been necessary for the development of the fur education and the design! Thanks especially to Team Centria, Juthbacka Culture Center and Pro Fur Education-group.
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TEMPUS FUGIT
Fur education at Centria University of Applied Sciences
Business Management Bachelor of Business Administration - with specialization in fur design
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In the autumn of 2014 Centria University of Applied Sciences introduces a new international education at the university level with the specialization in fur. The estimated time for the studies is three years and the degree will be Bachelor of Business Administration. The studies include fur design and business, which gives a good basis for functioning in a global fur market. This is the first time Centria can offer this kind of degree programme in English and we are looking forward to welcoming students from all over the world to study fur and business!
planning and building the stand, logistics, informing, appearing on the fair and taking care of contacts. The overall objective of the degree programme is to provide students with professional, international, personal and social competences to operate in an international business environment. The programme provides good possibilities to study in an international surrounding as this is a group of multicultural students.
BACHELOR OF BUSINESS ADMINISTRATION The Degree Programme in Business Management focuses on entrepreneurship, sales and marketing in an international context. Students may decide to follow a businessoriented programme or choose to specialize in fur design & marketing. The option in fur design and marketing will enable students to become experts in the field of fur by learning how to handle fur and understand the raw material to design, market and make products in fur and leather. In addition to these skills, the students will acquire skills on how to plan and carry out an international fair project:
www.centria.fi www.centria.fi/futurefurstudio
More information on the degree programme and application process on the website
The Center for Fur Design is situated in the brand new Campus Allegro in the center of Pietarsaari.
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Photos: Sirpa Luoma (exterior) AnniMaria Weckman (interior)
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STUDENTS´ COLLECTIONS
Projects as a teaching method
During the planning of the new degree programme in 1996, we decided to use learning by doing as the most important teaching method. By doing this, the students were able to get to know the fur trade and its actors and how the international fur trade functions very well already during the study time. In this way the education also differed from the furriers’ education where the main thing was handcrafts.
SOME EXAMPLES OF STUDENTS´ PROJECTS • POLAR STAR – specially made for Haining leather fair in China • CAPSULE – furniture and other products together with several companies from Eastern Finland • TEMPUS FUGIT – calendar –fur for every month • THE BLONDES OF 20TH CENTURY – painting with fur and leather • OUT OF VOGUE – punk collection • KITES – different animal kites • THE CORSETS – 10 different corsets • SEALS – co-operation with the Kvarken Council • aboveSEALevel – co-operation with the Kvarken Council
Centria University of Applied Sciences has carried out many different collections together with fur design students and organizations/ companies. Design-projects combine theoretical knowledge and the students’ practical skills and provide the students with useful contacts for their working life.
• CHARLSTON – party wear in 20’s style • YHDESSÄ – knitwear and fur • DRESS AND CODE – co-operation with students and Finnish fur farmers • CARPE DIEM – main materials reindeer fur and leather • FUR-THE PEARL IN OUR OYSTER – co-operation with students and Finnish fur farmers
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Students´ collections
CARPE DIEM
BLONDES OF THE 20TH CENTURY
BLUEFOX IN A NEW WAY
THE KITES
THE CORSETS
CAPSULE
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TEMPUS FUGIT
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Already the first student project in year 1999 aimed high. It was called POLAR STAR and it was presented in Haining and Shanghai in China.
Students’ achievements in design competitions
Students’ achievements in design competitions The fur design students have been successful in design competitions during the years. They have for example participated in the competitions organized by Fur Finland and some of them have also been represented at international REMIX-finale in Milan. Natalia Kazakova and Leena Mäkipää second and third prize at a design competition arranged by Lahti University of Applied Sciences/Snowcastle- project 2001 Noora Huotari – Second placement at Vote for the most beautiful fur garment at Helsinki Fashion fair 2012 fair with BIRDIE-skirt. Vote was organized by Fur Finland.
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BLANCHE by Tuija Salmi
MISTY HARLOW by Noora Huotari
Tuija Salmi and Noora Huotari won the PIMP MY COAT-competition 2009 organized by Fur Finland.
Students’ achievements in design competitions
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Studying in Pietarsaari gave me a lot of experiences and opened the door to the fur world. I learnt how to use different fur types and tried many interesting techniques. I started loving working with fur and leather. I also did a three-month internship in Kastoria (Greece) at Erton Group. That company manufactures mostly fur coats. It was really a good experience to see how the huge fur factory works. I also took part in the REMIX 2013 competition. It was my very first self-made furcoat (mink mixed with fox). I love working with fur!
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Kadri Niin, Estonia
LUCIA –furcoat by Inga Torikka
FOXY MINK by Kadri Niin
Students’ achievements in design competitions
16 AUDREY by Svetlana Iagovitina Svetlana Iagovitina – won the Finnish REMIXcompetition for young designers organized by Fur Finland and represented Finland at the international REMIX- finale in Milan 2008 The concept of the International Fur Design Competition [REMIX] was introduced in 2003 by the International Fur Federation who recognized the importance of supporting the next generation of designers and furriers and wanted to do something to help them further. The main aim of REMIX is to encourage, inspire and support young designers as they develop and explore their relationship with fur, as well as giving them an opportunity to showcase their innovative designs to an international audience.
Students’ achievements in design competitions
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DANIELA by Ernesto Hinojosa Ernesto Hinojosa won the second prize in the competition at the International Fur Fair of Kastoria, Greece MAY 2013.
DRESS & CODE 2010 Cooperation between students and Finnish fur farmers
LADY GAGA Jenni Kurunmäki & Janne Penttilä GOLDEN30’s Sanna Panula & Jorma Kauppila SNOWBOARD JACKET Alexis Scharbakou & Hans Holmström
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Students’ collections
FUR - THE PEARL IN OUR OYSTER 2011 Cooperation between students and Finnish fur farmers
When we mixed 10 fur design students and 10 fur farmers from Finland, the result was: FUR - The Pearl in our Oyster-collection 2011. Every student has worked closely with one fur farmer and other sponsors. The students have been listening to the fur farmers’ wishes, desires, ideas and visions. Each student both designed and manufactured products with individualism. Themes chosen by the students varied from Finnish, Russian or Japanese traditions to protective hero, army and knights as well as energetic fruits. Three of the students participating in the project, were exchange students from our important co-operative universities Haute Ecole Fransisco Ferrer in Brussels and from HELMO in Liege.
“ “ I was one out of ten participant farmers in the realization of the collection FUR – The Pearl in our Oyster. As a farmer my goal was to receive visibility for my own products and at the same time support young students of fur. I am satisfied with the collection which is both unique and comprehensive enough. As a result of the cooperation, a beautiful evening gown was created from my mink skins. If possible, I am willing to participate in cooperative projects in the future as well. Hannu Sillanpää, Fur farmer Sillanpään Turkis
The cooperation with the named sponsor, farmer, has been interesting. The cooperation has been running from the planning stage to the final display of the product to the public. It has also been challenging since the communication with the farmers has mostly been done over the phone and through e-mail. It was also challenging to make such a product that the farmer would be proud to present in the future as well, since often the farmers and the designer had different viewpoints. I believe that the farmers were satisfied with the positive response they got for their products in both the fashion shows and fairs. Aino Tapanainen, Fur Design student, CENTRIA
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Students’ collections
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AINO by Iris Weiss & Jari Torppa
ANASTASIA Irina Lazhieva & Olli-Pekka Hietamäki
ARMY CHARM by Marjo Lastikka & Hannu Sillanpää
Students’ collections
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POSITION by Jenny Bärdén & Göran Jungar
RESTARS by Aino Tapanainen &Jouni Koskinen
SUSHI MOI by Pierre Herche & Benny Ståhlberg
Students’ collections
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BIRDIE by Noora Huotari & Stefan Wik & Sofia Wik
FUCHSIA MAFIA by Ludzzie Ross & Kaj Wik
MISS DECEIVING by Jenna Ylitalo & Markku Kujanen
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FRUITALICIOUS by Helena Hyv채rinen & Ulf Eriksson
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“
M.I.B and CENTRIA University of Applied Sciences met each other a long time ago. It was snowing in Helsinki and the Auction was going on. Seated close to each other, Roberto S and Basil Kardasis started talking about the weather, and fur, and about why they were attending the Auction. So they discovered that there were quite a lot of things that could have been done together. A few months later, Basil and Pia landed in Milano and arrived at the tannery; they turned crazy with the colours and the processing. Roberto did the same, enjoying the suggestions arriving from these two crazy researchers. This was because Basil and Pia were just looking at how to promote fur in a different way and Mib was just waiting for new ideas. The wedding took place late in the 90s and since then many and many times Mib and Ostrobothnia have met each other with the clear thought in mind that “ Nothing is impossible!” both have learned a lot and even after so many years the “sympathy” remains the same. Both of us Robertos have had the chance to give a lecture in Pietarsaari and it was
an incredible experience for us. One of us was even (kid)knapped by the pirates while driving to the rough North. The car was stopped in the middle of the road and forced the poor Italian to cross the forest and reach the pirate-boat. Well, boys... what an adventure! Years later another Roberto got lost in the countryside trying to reach the Walhalla! That is why we still maintain a good friendship! And with the new programme .... there will be a good future for fur once more! Roberto Scarpella, General Manager, M.I.B Manifattura Italiana del Brembo President of the AIP, The Associazione Italiana Pellicceria Roberto Tadini, Financial Manager, M.I.B Manifattura Italiana del Brembo
CREATIVE WORKSHOPS
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Creative workshops
AURORA BOREALIS 2006 A Tale of the Queen of the Northern Sky by Center of Knowledge within the Fur Trade-project
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The AURORA BOREALIS workshop challenged the designers and the fur professionals to do creative cooperation. The workshop showed that fur is formed by professionals, even in a short period of time, into mythical and fabulous dresses that bring out the material in a completely new light. The participants of the workshop were launched into 48hours of intensive work. The participants were able work with the best possible materials; amazing fur, leather and fabric donated by partners. The theme of the workshop was the Northern Lights. According to the dramatic theme the materials were divided into different groups according to colours. The main colours were iceand dark blue, fresh green, mystic violet, flaming orange and vivacious yellow. The participants came to the AURORA BOREALIS workshop from all over Finland and they were not all familiar with each other. Professor Basil Kardasis divided them into different couples using the question ”Will you marry me?”. One of the persons in the“married couple” worked as a designer and the other one as a producer. The combining of different know-
ledge and roles demanded a lot of unprejudiced attitude and will to experiment. The result of the workshop was six unique outfits spiced up with interesting accessories. The highlight of the week was the fashion show arranged at the old theatre, La Scala in Nykarleby, the last evening of the workshop. The outfits were worn by a ballet dancer, Sari Saranpää, portraying QUEEN AURORA dancing beautifully. The fabulous outfits aroused the fantasy of Aurora, the Queen of the Northern Lights. The fantastic dance made the outfits come alive. In the different outfits the four elements of nature – earth, air, water and fire a re clearly visible. Each outfit is unique and gets its strength from its own element.
Victoria by Anna Krats & Liisa Andström Cascade by Riikka Tiainen & Kati Mesiranta-Tynkkynen Flame by Tuiri Aho & Hanna Lumo
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Creative workshops
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The closeness to nature and the different elements also unfold in the pictures of the outfits because they were taken in beautiful surroundings at the seashore in Pietarsaari.
Light Dance by Eila Tiittanen & May Bjรถrklund Arctic Motion by Piritta Tanttari & Saara Harilahti Spring of the Morning by Reijo Ojala & Mia Ristioja
Creative workshops
MUSIC WITH FUR 2007 by Protopajaproject
Fur is a diverse material where a new element can always be found. In skilful hands, fur is even transformed into products that remind you of instruments. The event arranged, attracted and inspired a group of fur experts, craftsmen and designers from all over Finland.
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”Music has its own sound, color and form. Music awakens feelings and describes different motions. Artists express music in paintings and designers in their creations. The aim with the workshop was to create instruments in which fur is combined with leather, fabric, and above all, materials that produce sound. Each instrument was to be unique and wearable. The workshop began with an introductory exercise where the participants listened to music and expressed their associations through painting and drawing. These sketches were then the basis for the planning of the work and helped create the instruments. The materials used in the workshop were fur, leather, parchment, fabrics and many additional materials, such as metal, stone, glass, sea shells, seeds, plastic and paper. Pan flute, chimes, harp, percussions and rhythm instruments were used as inspiration.
The four days of the workshop led to totally nine different instruments, of which each is unique to its character and reminds of its designer. The participants: May Björklund, Agneta Fellman, Pia Haapaniemi, Eeva Jokelainen, Mari Niva, Kati Petersen-Waris, Ingegerd Niemi and Mia Ristioja.
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Creative workshops
SEALS 2008
Bold visions, extravagant execution – Luxurious accessories of seal in cooperation with the Kvarken Council
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Sensational, Exclusive, Accessories, Luxurious, Seductive – in short SEALS. The aim of the project was to use Finnish grey seal skin in combination with fur in completely new ways and to mix these with different materials such as silk, crystals and golden chains. After creation and sketches, accessories were born representing experimentation, courage and luxury. The result was the collection SEALS: bold, different and innovative luxury accessories, consisting of 20 products ranging from spectacular bags, belts, collars and other accessories made of seal skin, fur, silk and other materials. The following fur design students participated in the workshop: Satu Back, Miina Knuutila, Anniina Pennanen, Minna Saarinen, Tuija Salmi and Inga Torikka. Furthermore, sealer Tommy Forsström from Sweden, furand leather designer Ann -Sofi Fjällström, entrepreneur of the fur atelier DoTe, Doris Tedebring and furrier Ann-Britt Julin-Björkskog took part in the workshop. Furand leather entrepreneur Solweig Björklund also worked with the production.
Besides the SEALS–workshop two other workshops have been arranged in cooperation with The Kvarken Council: White Seal in 2004 and H2O in 2005 – both with 14 professionals: craftsmen, furriers and artists from Finland, Sweden, Norway and Denmark. The products have been exhibited in Österbottens museum in Vasa Finland, in Örnsköldvik and Umeå in Sweden and Brönnöysund in Norway and in Copenhagen Denmark.
“
The SEALS project was demanding, but an interesting experience. It was easy to become enthusiastic with planning and designing the products as I got to try different surfaces with for me brand new materials. I even had so many ideas that I eventually had trouble choosing what materials and techniques to use in the final products. I ended up with a necklace, collar, produced using cuts and spray painting techniques and the belts Coral Colony and Wave made of seal skin and fur naturally. Participating in the project was really an educational experience, because I could familiarize myself with a fascinating material unknown to me, and I could be creative in many different ways. Inga Torikka, Fur Design student
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Creative workshops
MidnightBLUESfox in Manhattan 2008 – the meeting between Lumi and Emilio
by the ESF funded education and development project - The Wonder of Fur
When you combine a fairytale-like story, the best materials and professionals devoted to their work, you get an entirety that speaks to the spectator. Seven professionals from the fur trade and designers wrote a story about two lovers and they also made the story visual.
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The theme for the MidnightBLUESfox in Manhattan-workshop was tied to the story about Lumi and Emilio and to their meeting at the luxurious WaldorfAstoria Hotel in New York. For this unforgettable occasion, unique outfits in Finnish blue fox and reindeer suede were designed and made. The outfits are completed with headdresses, glass jewellery and footwear, which are suited for the glamorous ballroom of the hotel. PARTICIPANTS Liisa Andström – sales manager, chair person for Fur Finland Jenni Autio – fashion, footwear designer Tiina Ehrukainen – designer material glass Noora Ihalainen – clothing designer and vocational teacher Eeva Jokelainen furrier, teacher in the clothing and fur trade Reijo Ojala – clothing designer Mia Ristioja – furrier, entrepreneur
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Co-operating with Centria University of Applied Sciences and its projects is something we fur farmers value highly, both concerning the way it benefits our own farms as well as the way it creates a positive image of fur. We have donated blue fox skins to give the students/participants the chance to experiment with the material, which thereby also has aided the visibility of the blue fox in the fashion world. We also had the opportunity to visit the Cuir à Paris fair and witnessed how people within the field got aha experiences when seeing products made from blue fox. As fur farmers our main aim is to market the blue fox and show it from its best side. The blue fox has a fur that is thick and of high quality and it is an animal which cannot be bred outside of Finland. It has been a great learning experience to see how the skins can be used in design since that really makes us understand the different needs for skin quality. It is a great joy to co-operate with young designers from all over the world having their own cultures and vocational skills eager to learn about the fur as a material, and who are interested in and ask a lot of questions about fur farming. Ulf Eriksson, Bluefox farmer Chairman Svenska Österbottens pälsdjursodlarförening, r.f.
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Creative workshops
STARRY, STARRY NIGHT AND DAY 2008 by the ESF funded education and development project - The Wonder of Fur
The world of ideas for the Starry, Starry Night and Day workshop was brought from both the paintings of Vincent van Gogh and Finnish nature. The colors of the workshop were black and white and the materials used were high quality Finnish furs and leather, fabrics, crystals and tin cord. The participants of the workshop represented different cultures, skills and techniques from all over the world: Tibor Rohaly is a tailor and designer of men’s wear living in London, Manabu Kaminaga is a Japanese designer who works as a patternmaker in Denmark. The Italians Alessandra Santini and Giulia Arpioni brought their own experiences from the theatre world to the workshop. The artisan in precious metals and jewels, Elle Valkeapää, also attended the workshop.
“
It was very inspiring! Being a patterner I usually work with many designers and also fur designers. So I know both the areas and skills pretty well. But working with people from different areas, and professions gave me a fantastic experience. As if it opened new possibilities for not only fur but also my pattern cutting area. I will highly recommend anyone who is interested to take this opportunity. And finally... fur can be used in some other ways than you used to imagine. Manabu Kaminaga, Japan/Denmark
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Creative workshops
MARRIAGE A LA MODE 2009 by the ESF funded education and development project - The Wonder of Fur
Wedding gowns from three different cultures, the EAST,the WEST and AFRICA, were made in the workshop that had the theme of marriage, the most holy of the commitments.
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The world that is getting more global all the time has brought us to the situation where traditions and beliefs, religions and social classes from different corners of the world blend. Interaction between the different continents is a part of everyday life and the contact is effortless. The eleven different designers, fur professionals and students from Finland, Belgium, Germany and Italy, created unique wedding gowns for the three different continents by combining fur, leather, fabrics and other materials. The bride of the East is LIANI. Her wedding dress is red and black to its colors. A jacket is made of dyed blue fox, the sleeveless top is made of red mink and soft lamb nappa, in the black gloves the nappa is profile cut and the slidedyed trousers are nappa and decorated with ribs stitches. Siida Aberra, Kati Mesiranta Tynkkynen and Manuella Nerincx made up the team.
The groom from the West is STARBRIGHT, white and golden. His outfit consists of sand coloured overalls, a waistcoat made of mink and blue fox, boots covered with mink, golden chains on his hips and furs as ornaments. The wedding ring is a piece of art made of feathers. The team consisted of Giovanni Amandini, Astrid MoserArendt, Philippe Van Mollekot and Nattapol Saechiw. IDRIS is an African bride and today is the most important day in her life. Her wedding gown is made of blue fox and Finnish raccoon dyed green, orange and green mink, a hand printed fabric with big and clear patterns, fringes and strings, tails and feathers, and sandals made of green mink. The team consisted of Kisu Aho, Svetlana Yagovitina, and Lara Courty, as well as Maria Lindborg who printed the fabric. In the production of head gears and accessories the teams had Ulla Huhtakangas, an educator in the field of millinery, as their help. Eeva Jokelainen and Mia Ristioja were working as assistants.
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New experience... New challenge... New discovery... Wonderful experience... Surely unforgettable, memorable exchanges, a very passionate team led by a teacher and great professional. It is a great experience to live for progress in the field of fur. It allows evolving an unusual and instructive manner. It is a subtle blend of technique, creativity and “genius” to get a result that I never thought possible before you start... The highlight of this workshop is the wide variety of furs and skins to use. The potential of this formation is highly appreciated by the great potential of the technique. Thank you for those rare moments that make our life so interesting. Philippe Van Mollekot Director of Quality, BELLEROSE Technical teacher on patternmaking at the Haute Ecole Francisco Ferrer in Brussels/Belgium
Creative workshops
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EAST
WEST
The workshop culminated in a “wedding ceremony” at the Aspegren gardens in Pietarsaari.
AFRICA
Creative workshops
ROCCO 2009 by the ESF funded education and development project - The Wonder of Fur
Pure beauty is created only when love and skills work together.
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Alpaca and peccary from the mountains of Peru. Fox and mink from Finland. Handmade accessories from Italy and Finland. Hand printed leathers from Finland. Knitting wool from many different sources. Crocodile tail from Africa. All these fabulous materials have been assembled to create “Rocco�. A most virtuous skilful group of practitioners combined their efforts to make a garment that holds all which they believe in ONE. A token of each person, a symbol, is hanging on the belt as a constant reminder of what each one holds sacred. Love, hope and charity, the symbols of our city Pietarsaari, extends its well wishes to you all.
Creative workshops
Greetings
“ “ “ The Finnish Fur Breeders’ Association has for many years co-operated with Centria University of Applied Sciences and its projects. The project CENTRIA/FutureFURstudio, has done a remarkable job in promoting both the fur trade and the fur farmers. Continued research and development is of high importance to the fur farmers, and also that the fur collections are displayed on international fairs. The location of FutureFURstudio in Ostrobothnia with a close proximity to the fur farmers, has been essential for the cooperation. FutureFURstudio, in a way, functions as a mediator between the fashion world and the fur farmers. The fur farmers’ opinions and thoughts have been considered carefully during the project. The participants in the workshops have also always had the opportunity to acquaint themselves with the fur farms. We have had a close cooperation when working together to promote fur and we are very satisfied with that. Marja Tiura, Managing Director Finnish Fur Breeders’ Association Kenneth Ingman, Chairman of the Board Finnish Fur Breeders’ Association Chairman of Fur Europe
The friendship between INFUR and CENTRIA University of Applied Sciences has been in existence for many years. Yet the day that we discovered a band of dreamers in faraway Pietarsaari seems like only yesterday… They were fellow travellers on a journey of discovery to the world of fur, united by the desire to share their love and pass on their knowledge of this unique material. From then until today, many changes have taken place… Many dreams have been realized, new visions and targets have come into being and new territories have been earmarked for conquest… What remains unchanged however, is an inexhaustible passion for fur and all that it represents. We, for our part, remain faithful fellow travellers. We are here to actively support you in your endeavour! May you continue with success! Sophia Simeonidou INFUR, Editor-in-chief, Greece
The International Fur Federation is very happy and proud to say that we have established a successful and fruitful cooperation with Centria University of Applied Sciences in 2013. We have jointly promoted the Fur Futures´ initiative and bursary, which gives support for the next generation working with fur and building a strong network which brings a bright future for our young members and the whole fur industry. We have worked together with Centria’s successful Ernesto Hinojosa and supported his final collection, as well as a number of other students. We wish Centria University of Applied Sciences to continue its great work in the coming year and we look forward to our continued successful cooperation. Gorana Stojanovic Director of Communications International Fur Federation fur – the natural, responsible choice
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Designer Carmela Wager, Weaver, Costume and Stage Designer, Finland.
DAPHNE
Her present lover is taking her on a 100 mile cruise down the Nile to woo her to marry him.
Creative workshops
ONE STEP A-HEAD 2010 by the ESF funded education and development project - The Wonder of Fur
The workshop ONE STEP A- HEAD brought together skilful people from different parts of Europe to create new innovations and international contacts inspired by a fascinating theme. During the workshop the team was designing and making hats for the same lady to different occasions. Specialists from five different fields from all over Europe participated in the workshop: Doctor Jackie Hrabok-Leppäjärvi is originally from Canada and through several stages she has ended up married in Inari, Finland. Her specialty is arctic biology. At the Sámi Education Institute she studied different traditional Sámi handicraft skills. Milliner teacher Ulla Huhtakangas’ opinion is that opportunities such as these give good possibilities to move from the role of a teacher to the role of a student at the same time allowing you to meet new people whom you would not meet anywhere else. Milliner Justin Smith has a successful high quality headdress salon in London. He arrived to the workshop to get new ideas for designing his collection and to learn to work with fur as a material. At the same time, working in teams was a nice variation to his normal way of working in his own studio.
The artist and designer Malin Unga has worked as an artist and stylist for different projects. She founded her own company and now she is designing her own women’s collection. Especially knitted sculptural outfits are close to her heart. Fur was a new material for her and she was very interested and felt she learnt a lot during the week of the workshop. Finnish scenographer Carmela Wager has worked as a costumier and set designer in the theatre world for more than 25 years. Her education background is textile designer. She decided to participate in the workshop because her work tasks are constantly changing and she wanted to find a way to combine all her fields of knowhow.
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I spent a week at the workshop with Basil and the team, it was very fulfilling, creative and informative and I learnt a great deal about fur, its construction and fur production. I hold the memories deep in my heart the time I spent in Finland, everyone I encountered helped make it a very special time. Indeed, I will never forget it. Justin Smith - Milliner - J Smith Esquire.
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The colors used in the workshop were black and white and the materials were highquality mink and fox furs. In addition, leather, felt, fabric, tulle and parchment were used for the products.
ACACIA Her love from before, Audrey, is marrying the man SHE always coveted, but not to marry. Consequently, she wants to be the guest of honour at Audrey’s wedding.
Creative workshops
LILY
She goes to the Happy Valley races in Hong Kong.
Designer Malin Unga, designer of knitted delectables, Sweden.
ROSA SUCCINEA
She has been made a Fellow of Cambridge University and she will be present to receive the honor.
Creative workshops
Designer Jackie Hrabok-Leppäjärvi, Arctic Paracitology, Canada/ Finland.
GINGER
In the spring, she will travel to Japan to plant a flowering cherry blossom tree in honour of all who died in the war.
Designer of the exquisite arctic head dress Ulla Huhtakangas, Teacher of Millinery, Finland.
Creative workshops
FUR & FURNITURE 2010 workshop
by the ESF funded education and development project - The Wonder of Fur
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The first part of the workshop FUR & FURNITURE, was to invite designers and practitioners to work with this theme, irrespective of the area that they normally practice or specialize in. We wanted to introduce the fact that furniture can incorporate the “textile” fur as any normal material to achieve a desirable piece. All, with the exception of one, had never worked with fur before and some never with wood. The group consisted of a lightning designer, a sculptress, a fur fashion designer, a trend forecaster, and a product designer, all from five different countries. The success of the exercise will be the strength of two areas: Design and Craft, coming together to produce a beautiful product which will include FUR and WOOD, naturally united. The project worked in an even closer cooperation with the industry than before and several furniture companies took part in the cooperation through Experimental Design Lab Project at Seinäjoki University of Applied Sciences/ School of Culture and Design.
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I had the pleasure to meet beautiful people and big minds at the Fur & Furniture workshop. The atmosphere of Pietarsaari helps new ideas come true. Matteo Bardi, entrepreneur and trend consultant, Italy
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Creative workshops
Creative workshops
Creative workshops
ACCESSORIES ‘BE-FUR’ THE FACT 2011 by the ESF funded education and development project - The Wonder of Fur
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A group of chosen designers and creators were asked to design, style and produce a collection of ‘ACCESSORIES’. These products will simply ‘merge’, without thinking, with our everyday ‘Natural life’. No matter who we are, where we are, what we are... ...and for any purpose at all that will enhance our ‘LIFE’ aesthetically, practicably, purposely, decoratively... On the table, for the desk, in the bedroom, for the hall, in the bathroom, for the kitchen, in the lounge, the study, any area in which we live and function! The invited creators came from all sectors of the field of product development and design. Art, textiles, education, theatre, costume and they have many years of association with life’s “accessory” needs. ‘The Fur - Natural Fabric’ was freely combined and married to other ‘Natural’ materials, such as leather, parchment, textile, wood, metal and glass to create a ‘Natural Harmony’ Fashion Designer Georg Meyer-Wiel, England – Adagio, the Anatomy of Sound. The installation is suspended to further represent the fleeting quality of music.
Textile artist Kathryn Jane Van Milligen, England, produced a colorful rug which she has named a Labour of Love. Designer, product and graphical design, Andreas Haals, Finland, designed an Arctic Picnic box. Fashion design student Iris Weiss, Belgium. Garde-Rêves are boxes for jewelry, a love letter, for the chocolate you (do not) eat at night or where you can just keep a diary telling us about the dreams hidden inside the two boxes next to this one. Designer Anna Aromäki, Finland - The Stardust Light-candelabra consists of oiled oak, hand wrought iron, felt- and fur details.
CUIR A PARIS, fair, 2011
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For many years, CUIR A PARIS has supported CENTRIA and presented the remarkable work of its students at the show. The quality of the teaching and the highly creative nature of the projects make Future Fur Studio an essential centre for training the designers and stylists of tomorrow in the fur and leather sectors. The University’s primary objective is to create tangible links between the industry and the young designers. It is therefore natural for CUIR A PARIS to showcase and encourage these initiatives and present CENTRIA to professionals from across the world through our event. Marc Brunel Show Manager, CUIR A PARIS
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“ “ FutureFurStudio is a project that involves both regional creators and designers from all over the world in their workshops, thereby creating an international context and a ground for establishing new contacts. Added to this, the project has invited lecturers, expertise and participants on a high international level to the region, which has enriched the local design- and cultural climate of the region. The fact that this has then been combined with the alreadyexisting competence found in the region, and then transferred out into the world through different fairs, is truly remarkable. Linda Blomqvist, Executive Manager, Juthbacka Cultural Center
It has been a great joy and an honor for both me and my company to co-operate with the people at the Fur Department at Centria University of Applied Sciences, as well as to participate in development projects like the most recent one in the FutureFurStudio. Before, I have been involved in many different development projects in my former work places, where I have co-operated with different organizations. From our company’s point of view, Centria’s projects are reality-based and aid in both developing and promoting the fur trade. You truly have an entrepreneurial attitude towards the work you do, which is something you would wish to see more of in the public sector. Carita Pöntiö Managing Director, Ahlskog Leather
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FutureFURstudio
The FutureFURstudio –project
functioned along the following main lines:
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EU-funded FutureFURstudio-project (20112014) served the whole fur trade and design field: companies, designers, teachers and students. The aim was to encourage the use of fur in design products, for example, in furniture and also in totally new areas. In the project, activities corresponding to the needs of the design companies were developed, an open and innovative environment was created and the design knowledge was developed on an international basis. The FutureFURstudio also created new networks between designers and manufacturers.
Product development services
Companies/designers were able to come and test their ideas in their collections through the guidance of professional furriers. The project also offered companies/designers different kinds of product development services.
Creative workshops
The project arranged three creative workshops: SAIL AWAY, GRAFFITI and ENIGMA ENERGIA. Designers and professionals from different countries worked together with a given theme and designed innovative collections made mainly from furs produced in Ostrobothnia.
International marketing
The collections designed in the workshops were shown at the most important international fashion fairs, exhibitions and other events.
Modules
The FutureFURstudio project developed different kinds of education modules in English. The modules are organized by CENTRIA University of Applied Sciences.
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The Pietarsaari region is a center of fur production in Finland. Centria University of Applied Sciences is a cornerstone in the development of the business in the region and in Finland as a whole. It has been a pleasure to follow the dedication and the professionalism with which Centria has been undertaking the challenging task of transformation. Mikael Jakobsson Mayor City of Pietarsaari
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FutureFURstudio has also organized seminars and workshops abroad: most recently in Istanbul, Ukraine and Belgium.
FutureFURstudio
SAIL AWAY 2012 By the FutureFURstudio-project
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The SAIL AWAY workshop combined the expertise of Centria University of Applied Sciences and Baltic Yachts, a company worldfamous for its yachts of high quality. Fabulous Ostrobothnian fur and leather materials were used for creating innovative products for the interior of luxurious sailing boats. An international group of creative designers from various fields gathered in Pietarsaari. Inspired by the sea, yachts and the introductory presentation by the workshop mentor, the talented team of designers planned products suitable for yachts.
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Sail Away was an interesting workshop with a group of skilled people, full of enthusiasm and creativity. In fact, that type of work method is not far from what Baltic Yachts is accustomed to. We are an innovative company, who builds custom yachts that are handmade and unique. The building process is very creative, sometimes even challenging, but always rewarding, just the way it was for the Sail Away team members. We both gather experts from all around the world to the small town of Pietarsaari, where craftsmanship and quality have always played a major role, and together as a team we create something far beyond what we would have been able to accomplish on our own. Elisabet Holm Marketing and PR Coordinator Baltic Yachts
PHOTO: Baltic Yachts
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FutureFURstudio
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B.B –Body Basket by Ann Charlott Hästö, architect, SAFA, Finland
Seascape by Janet Haigh, designer-maker, embroiderer, England
Modulasea by Katarina Eklund, fashion designer, Finland
FutureFURstudio
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Calm and intimidating by Ken Kackur, photographer, Finland
FURst Division by Mia Sundström, art workshop tutor/ceramist, Finland
Romantic hanging lamp by Simay Bülbül, designer, Turkey
FutureFURstudio
GRAFFITI 2012 By the FutureFURstudio-project
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GRAFFITI is a highly formalized and developed visual language that has evolved over thousands of years. The Egyptians expressed their desires and left messages to their gods by scratching, or carving symbols and signs onto stones, fixed or free. The Greeks practiced symbolic language on exquisitely carved models of deities in marble by using paint. The Celts expressed gratitude to their gods by painting symbols on their sails and the sides of their ships, using liquid tar. These symbols acted as ward offs to negative forces. In today’s society, particularly in the last 25 years, GRAFFITI is being used as a powerful form of communication between the artist and the viewer. This form of Art was the stimulus for a workshop arranged by FutureFURstudio. Fur; mink and fox, fish skins, leather and other complementary materials such as beautiful Italian zippers, were used as the base canvas upon which we “wrote” our story so that it would be understood by all.
An intensive three-day workshop brought together five designers from different countries: Diana Agajan, Designer, Ukraine; Robin Kerr, Footwear/Fashion Designer, England; Elena Marradi, journalist & designer, Italy; Kim Segervall, tattoo artist, Malin Simons, sculpturer and Marianne Uusitalo, textile designer from Finland. For the first time the workshop was also documented in an artistic GRAFFITI film by Johannes Klemets. You can find the film on the webpage www.centria.fi/futurefurstudio GRAFFITI paintings by Johannes Iilahti, a student from Yrkesakademin i Österbotten, a local art school.
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Cocoon
Zippy
FutureFURstudio
Greetings
“ “ The project has brought interesting new contacts with people from around the world. In various events and fairs our company and the services we provide have received a guaranteed visibility. Our cooperation has functioned excellently and we have also been informed about the progress and achievements of the project in an excellent way. Seija Halkola, Responsible for Quality and Environmental Issues, Product Manager, Modifur
On behalf of Fur Finland and as a representative of the fur garment trade, I have participated when possible. The project has confirmed Centria’s status internationally. The international modules and workshops that have been arranged have proven to be successful in establishing contacts with people already working in the business and those interested in joining it. The possibility for designers to work with fur materials in the workshops has increased the use of fur as a material in design. The studio’s recognition has also grown in Finland. Liisa Andström, Sales Manager, Andström Trading
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FutureFURstudio
MASTER CLASS SUPREME 2013 Enigma energia enigma energia enigma energia enigma with
a sound twist of baroque
By the FutureFURstudio-project
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The energetic workshop was all about great teamwork, but also individual personalities were highlighted in the form of personal symbols, which were designed during the workshop. The end product is a big puzzle of symbols and some accessories to add some spice to it. The workshop was arranged during the Summer Academy week in cooperation with Novia University of Applied Sciences. The workshop got a nice start at Pietarsaari Museum together with the baroque music workshop. The three-day intensive fur workshop gathered people from all over the world. The theme of the workshop was called Enigma Energia, where Enigma means puzzle, secret, mystery or dilemma. Energia, then again, is a force, vigour or activity. To start, the participants designed symbols that reflected themselves. Who, What, Where, When, Why are you? were the questions the participants had to answer when designing. The symbols were made of course from the best Finnish Furs and unique leather materials such as reindeer and fish leather and from beautifully printed cow leather and mink plates.
Phase two was to design a puzzle from the symbols, where each participant is represented. The puzzle presents the whole team, where each piece is as important as the other. The workshop participants gave wonderful feedback on the workshop. Inspiring, creative and fun were the words they used to describe the workshop. Those who used fur for the first time were attracted by the versatility of the fur material. The workshop process was presented at the end of the workshop in the Midnight Sun Baroque Club at Campus Allegro. The evening was full of beautiful baroque music and poems and with the presence of the Master Class Supreme workshop,it was a nice ending for the rewarding and most international and professional workshop ever.
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When I came to Centria, I was amazed from the start. I felt that I was somehow home. I have a passion for leather but to mix it with fur was something new and exciting for me. The mentor turned the workshop into a magical world within us but yet we worked as a team. It was also breathtaking to experience how the group worked with the ocean leather and the fur together. María K Magnúsdóttir Shoe designer and sales manager for Atlantic Leather in Iceland
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FutureFURstudio
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FutureFURstudio
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FutureFURstudio
PRESENTATIONS OF THE SYMBOLS
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Machteld Schrameyer, USA The circle stands for me as an entity, the lightning bolt for the burst of energy coming in from the outside that feeds my creativity. The red and the blue within the circle stand for the passion of my creativity and the reflection and calm that gives it shape. The ties stand for the desire to connect to the rest of the world, with other people, coming in and going out. Secondly, they stand for the tool of the nomad, the modern-day traveller, tying life’s necessities to your person to take along on the journey. Liisa Andström, Finland Star. Throughout time the star has been a signpost for wanderers. The star will lighten my way and lead to a better tomorrow. The star is belief, trust and hope. My loved ones and I are watching the same scintillating star, even though there are thousands of unknown journeys between us. Johanna Öst Häggblom, Finland A cloud overflows into rain. The water hits the ground and the tree grows. The roots seek their way deeper into the ground and the branches reach for the sky. You are never complete and a new cloud overflows into rain.
FutureFURstudio
Ernesto Hinojosa, Mexico Protected Heart. When I was a child I had a recurrent nightmare when a venomous snake kept approaching me. I told my father about it and he said: ‘’What if the snake is there to protect you from something worse?’’ Sometimes we are so frightened to let changes happen in our lives that we overlook the fact that they might make us stronger and wiser. My heart is protected by snakes. María K. Magnúsdóttir, Iceland The meaning behind my symbol is “moment”. It represents the feeling of being at the right place with the right people, when everything feels just right and the things flow in the right movement and moment. The nest is also a perfect place to stop and think for a moment, a breathing place for both body and soul. Kelli McGuinness, UK My symbol expresses feelings of freedom, creativity, diversion and possibilities. It is an expression of myself as a young aspiring designer, learning and experiencing new and exciting things, and building myself as a person. Ballis Alkiviadis, Greece The rainbow in front of my eyes. Peace and war, calmness and pressure. Every day we struggle in order to handle all our needs. But in the middle of our calmness, suddenly there comes a thunderbolt that makes us aggressive and nervous. Whatever may come, stay calm and keep being creative.
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FutureFURstudio
Ernesto Hinojosa - Young Designer of the Year 2013
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Mexican-born Ernesto Hinojosa became the winner of the Award Young Designer of the Year 2013, in the competition with the same name aimed at students within the clothing industry. The idea behind the Young Designer of the Year competition came from the Finnish Fair Corporation, with the Finnish Fair Foundation as its financier. This time the competition was arranged for the 19th time, and is one of the oldest of its kind in Finland. The purpose of the competition is to find new ideas and solutions within fashion design while at the same time promoting young designers as well as Finnish design. The theme for this year’s competition was Green Carpet, and the competition hoped to bring forward imaginative evening gowns which also considered the ecological aspect. The jury commended Hinojosa for his ability to combine ecological thinking with haute couture. The jury was impressed by Hinojosa’s hard work and experience. According to the jury, Hinojosa is a versatile and interesting new designer and they especially appreciated that his prize-winning gown went so well in line with the competition’s glamour-theme
with a design that was both appealing to the eye and meticulous in details. In Mexico Hinojosa’s grandparents are famous for their design and knowledge of tailoring. Under their guidance Ernesto developed a special interest for traditional tailoring and pattern making. He created his first collection at the early age of 12. Hinojosa has studied industrial design in Mexico City and later on he has also completed a degree in fashion design at the prestigious Instituto Maragoni in London. He has been an apprentice for Alexander McQueen, Erdem and Mary Katrantzou. During his studies in London he became interested in fur and in 2011 he came second in the BFTA/Saga Furs National Competition. In his competition entry he combined special techniques with materials of top quality. Hinojosa started his studies in fur design on a scholarship in the DISCOVERING FURmodule at Centria University of Applied Sciences in January 2013. Hinojosa is now specialized in fur design and top class garments where fur is the main material.
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I believe fur is one of the greatest and most precious materials I could ever work with because it takes a lifetime to understand it and in order to preserve the greatness of it, the design must be respectfully and skilfully produced. Ernesto Hinojosa
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Ernesto Hinojosa’s first fur collection at the I love me-fair in Helsinki 2013 Ernesto Hinojosa showcased his first own collection where Finnish fox skins of best quality are in focus. Hinojosa’s skilfully made handicraft and excellent design is on display for visitors in the department which was awarded to him, and on the fashion show I love Fashion by Teri Niitti. In the charming collection different fur techniques have been combined with luxurious wool- and silk fabrics. The sculptural attires are skilfully made and the material used is Finnish fur in combination with gorgeous fabrics that flow beautifully. A good co-operation with the fur industry and different actors in the fashion industry enabled the realization of the Black Mamba collection.
FutureFURstudio
DISCOVERING FUR-module Developed by the FutureFURstudio–project
The creative and inspiring module, DISCOVERING FUR, introduces you to different fur techniques and the basic knowledge and skills of fur work. We start with the basics – different fur materials (fox, mink etc), techniques, machines, working stages and study visits to interesting companies. This module includes an inspirational, instigative and innovative workshop on The Magic of Fur.
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The two-week module is aimed for those who would like to use fur and leather in their work: designers, entrepreneurs, product developers, teachers and students.
“ “ I am working as a fur designer in the international fur company CPL. The Company was founded in Greece in 1953 and it is well-known for its quality fur- and shearling products and produces yearly 40 000 fur garments. I chose to come to Pietarsaari to study fur because I am interested in getting more knowledge and new ideas. - The module was fun and different from the everyday work. I also got new insights and saw different techniques. The fur is a great material to work with. In the future I will continue working with fur and want to develop new designs. - We have to continue the work and make fur popular among everybody. Fur is great, I love it. Kiki Papadioti, fur designer, Greece
Alongside the workshop studies were the visits to fox and mink farms. Farmers were very proud of their animals and they gave the animals such a good care. It was a good experience to visit the farms because I understood that each piece of the natural material was made with love, care and experience. Therefore, I used and will always use the material with love and respect, not even a millimeter is wasted. The program was very intensive yet relaxing. It allowed me to freely imagine and make the possibilities without the fear of the final result. It was such a wonderful experience to work and share my interest with friends and staff in everyday activities. PS: I love all the tea times, lunches and dinners that we shared together. Thao Ta, Vietnam, Graduate from Fashion Accessories design at Coventry University
Module
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Thao Ta
Silvia Cabalzar
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Philippe van Mollekot
Ann Charlott HästÜ
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The Department of Fur Design is for me the most professional and interesting place to do the training in Finland, Pietarsaari. The training focused on two aspects: the creativity and the means of conceptual design to allow the use of the material through a beautiful original and personal style. The technique allowed me to use the extraordinary potential of fur with a lot of consideration and respect. The team always organized international meetings to stimulate creativity and exchange between cultures and personalities. Coordinating the training was carried out with great professionalism and each participant made some very interesting discoveries, useful and practical, ready to be integrated into the industry. Have fun during these discoveries!
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Jean - Louis Baquet / Brussels / Belgium Consultant in the field of luxury fashion Professor of styling on fashion design at the Haute Ecole Francisco Ferrer in Brussels/Belgium
Jean - Louis Baquet
FutureFURstudio
International Fairs The results of the design projects have been presented in many different events in Finland and abroad. CENTRIA/ The Center for Fur Design has also been an invited exhibitor at the several international fairs yearly:
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Cuir a` Paris, France Mifur, Milan/Italy Fur Excellence in Athens, Greece Haining leather Fair, China Istanbul Leather Fair, Turkey International Fur Fair of Kastoria, Greece Ukraina Fur Expo, Kiev/Ukraine
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Centria and its product have received much visibility on international fairs. The fur stand has been popular on all fairs because it has been unique compared to other stands and their products and themes. It has also received a lot of attention from both professionals in the field, designers, students from different fields of study, as well as the media. International fairs have provided a forum for making new contacts, which would otherwise have been impossible for the students. Participating in fairs has been a practical work experience and provided an insight into the organization of fairs and their marketing. Aino Tapanainen and Noora Huotari, Fur Design students, CENTRIA
“ “ The aim of the partnership between Mifur and CENTRIA University of Applied Sciences is to help young people and promote new ideas in fur. They began to exhibit with us almost by chance; we were then struck by the fact that, in most cases, the things arriving at the stand were not garments from collections, but kites, interior design objects and other extraordinary items, but always exclusively in fur. It was almost as if they were showing our other exhibitors and our visitors that creativity knows no boundaries; that fur is a flexible material that can take on many guises and that fur processing techniques adapt to the object and can bring out its essential qualities. This is why CENTRIA University of Applied Sciences always has a stand at Mifur and why it has become part of an important project promoted by Associazione Italiana Pellicceria dedicated to young people all over the world who want a future in our sector. Because the future of the sector is in their hands and each year at Mifur we build a piece of the future together. Elena Salvaneschi Mifur General Secretary, Italy
We are very happy to have had CENTRIA in our Exhibition the last 2 years presenting their unique collections to our Exhibitors and commercial visitors not only through a stand, but showing pieces of their collection also at our Gala Show. Their remarkable work won a prize during the 38th International Fur Fair of Kastoria, at the Exhibitors’ Contest and we hope that CENTRIA will be always present in the International Fur Fair of Kastoria. We would like to congratulate the designers’ team for their advanced level and the Professor Mr. Vassilis Kardasis and Mrs. Pia Blomström for their excellent work. The members of the Kastorian Fur Association have been informed about CENTRIA’s courses and we believe that the following years there will be a number of Greek students who will attend. We wish CENTRIA every success to their projects. THE ADMINISTRATION BOARD, International Fur Fair of Kastoria, Greece
Acknowledgements
Acknowledgements Team CENTRIA Karl Ehnvall, Lis-Mari Jansson, Anni Leponiemi, Mari Niva –without this team nothing would have been possible! OUR WARMEST THANKS TO ALL CO-OPERATIVES, FUR FARMERS, FINANCIERS & PRIVATE PERSONS WHO HAVE SO KINDLY HELPED US DURING THE YEARS!
ProFur
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ProFur/ Finnish Fur Breeders’ Association Pohjois-Suomen Turkiseläinten Kasvattajat ry Svenska Österbottens Pälsdjursodlarförening rf
STUDENTS’ COLLECTIONS POLAR STAR MENTORS: Pia Blomström and Jukka Rintala PARTICIPANTS: Oili Mikkola, Leena Niemi, Mari Niva, Piia Packalèn, Johanna Renlund, Teija Strang, Anne Sundell & Tiina Tupeli COOPERATIVES: Ahlskog Leather, Sagafurs,Andström Trading,Friitala Fashion Ltd, M.I.B Manifattura Italiana del Brembo, Lapponia Jewelry, Villisilkki, Sauso, Dong Hua University (China) SHOWN AT : China National Leather Garment Fair, Haining 1999. At fashion show organized by Michelle Fur (Hong Kong) at Shanghai 1999- Finland Fashion Night in Shanghai - organized by Consulate General of Finland, Shanghai,
CENTRIA University of Applied Sciences and Dong Hua University 2002. PHOTO: Kira Gluschkoff MODEL from Dong Hua University, Shanghai, China TEMPUS FUGIT - calendar -fur for every month MENTORS: Pia Blomström, Tarja Djupsjöbacka, Lis-Mari Jansson and Anni Leponiemi PARTICIPANTS: Hanna-Leena Harri, Sofia Holmäng, Noora Hyvönen, Virpi Iinattiniemi, Päivi Jauhiainen, Terttu Jussila, Kati Juujärvi, Anne Karvonen, Mervi Kilponen, Kaija Kirsilä, Jaana Kivioja, Marjo Koivuniemi, Krista Lehtoranta, Hanna Leppijärvi, Aleksei Pesonen, Sinikka Luoma-Nirva, Jaana Myllylä, Elisa Mäki, Leena Mäkipää, Kati Männistö, Reeta Nerg, Mari Niva, Laura Nummela, Niina Pakkala, Kirsi Pauna, Riikka Pellinen. Nina Säärelä, Hanna Tähjänjoki, Ulla Untinen, Kreetta Vainikainen, Merja Valkeapää, Hanna Valo & Jenni Ylinen COOPERATIVES: Finnish Fur Farmers (Pohjois-Suomen Turkiseläinten Kasvattajat ry and Svenska Österbottens Pälsdjursodlarförening rf) The City of Pietarsaari, M.I.B Manifattura Italiana del Brembo, Ahlskog, UPM, Sagafurs, Finnish Fur Breeders’ Association, Nor-Car BSB, Jokipiin Pellava, Marks, Sirkka Dahlman, Graphics, Gallery Ann, Shoe Stop PHOTO: Mikko Käkelä MODELS: Eva Granholm, Marko Kahari and Minna Hurme CARPE DIEM in cooperation with the Sámi Education Institute ENSI by Helena Hyvärinen PHOTO: Pertti Puranen MODEL: Helena Hyvärinen SET: Fire brigade building THE KITES 15 different animal kites MENTOR: Basil Kardasis PARTICIPANTS: Svetlana Iagovitina, Taru Kummunmäki, Hanna Könönen, Arja Laatikainen, Anni Lahti,
Jenny Myrttinen, Elena Nyapshuyeva, Tanja Pantsar, Elisa Rissanen, Sari Roukala, Anne Tikkanen, Hanna Valo, Vaula Vilppola & Tomas Weymann COOPERATIVES: Finnish Fur Farmers, Kemin nahkatarvike PHOTO: Pertti Puranen BLONDES OF THE 20TH CENTURY MENTOR: Basil Kardasis PARTICIPANTS: Hanna Könönen, Hanna Lepistö, Mari Mäkelä, Tea Pystö, Sari Roukala, Kati Sadinmaa, Terhi von Schöneman, Anne Tikkanen, Titta Vettenranta & Vaula Vilppola COOPERATIVES: Sagafurs, Kemin nahkatarvike PHOTO: Pertti Puranen THE CORSETS MENTORS: Basil Kardasis and Anni Leponiemi PARTICIPANTS: Taru Kummunmäki , Arja Laatikainen, Anni Lahti, Meri Lasorla, Piia Mikkola, Jenny Myrttinen, Elena Nyapshuyeva, Tanja Pantsar, Elisa Rissanen & Minna Saarinen. COOPERATIVES: Finnish Fur Farmers, SagaFurs, Modifur, Ahlskog Leather, punainenlanka.fi PHOTO: Pertti Puranen ROCK’N RHYTHM by Meri Lasorla, MODEL: Otto Iivari MAKE UP & HAIR: Hairdresser Students: Emma Winberg, Marlene Stegar, Liina Vainionpää, Swedish vocational institute studyprogram in Social Services, health and sport. SUITE: Dressman SHOES: Shoe stop BLUEFOX IN A NEW WAY MENTOR: Dominique Baudouin (France) PARTICIPANTS: Satu Back,Tuija Kahari, Miina Knuutila, Anniina Pennanen, Piia Mikkola, Minna Saarinen & Inga Torikka Shawl by Minna Saarinen
Acknowledgements
PHOTO: Pertti Puranen MODEL: Nora Lammi
PHOTO:Pertti Puranen MODELS: Helena Hyvärinen and Saara Huotari
CAPSULE - furniture, jewelry-new techniques and ways of working in co-operation with companies from Eastern Finland: Fagun, Kainuun kuutamokeikat, Kultasepän Paja-ateljee Simo Pietari Oikarinen, Sinit MENTORS: Basil Kardasis and Pia Blomström PARTICIPANTS: Eva Gröndahl, Minna Jokinen,Natalia Kazakova, Nadedja Mkrtytchan, Leena Mäkipää, Tanja Vanhala & Heidi Vatjus-Anttila COOPERATIVES: Ahlskog Leather, Blacksmith Peter Hedman, Gemmi Furs, Finnish Fur Farmers, Sagafurs, Finnish Fur Breeders’ Association, Kemin nahkatarvike, M.I.B Manifattura Italiana del Brembo, Rintala Meuble/Tuula Falk PHOTO: Centria The collection was presented at Housing Fair in Kajaani 2001.
LUCIA –in co-operation with Folkhälsan A fruitful and long-term co-operation with a sheepskin fur coat yearly for the national Lucia as result. The fur design students have designed and made the patterns for the fur coats . DESIGN: Inga Torikka, Patterns Anni Leponiemi MANUFACTURING: May Björklund PHOTO: Pertti Puranen MODEL: Jenny Bärdén SET: Aspegren Gardens
DRESS&CODE MENTOR: Pia Blomström COOPERATIVES: Fur Farmers, Modifur, Ahlskog Leather PHOTO: Pertti Puranen MODELS: Helena Hyvärinen, Noora Huotari & Marko Jylli HAIR: Salon Henna/Kirsi-Marja Viitiö MAKE UP: Dorotheas Beauty/Teija Östman
SVETLANA IAGOVITINA MANUFACTURING: Arja Mikkola, Orimattilan Turkis COOPERATIVES: Saga Furs and Ahlskog Leather PHOTO: Toni Härkönen
FUR-THE PEARL IN OUR OYSTER MENTORS: Pia Blomström, Lis-Mari Jansson & Anni Leponiemi COOPERATIVES: Fur farmers, Modifur, Nordic Elk ®by Bröderna Brandt läderfabrik, Ahlskog Leather, Furtex, blacksmith Peter Hedman & Saga Åbonde (the knitwear) PHOTO:Pertti Puranen MODELS: Besides the students participating the project: Sara Kordek, Piotr Kaminski, Sofia Pohjanen and Emilia Tuura
DESIGN COMPETITIONS PIMP MY COAT competition by Fur Finland BLANCHE by Tuija Salmi MANUFACTURING: May Björklund MISTY HARLOW by Noora Huotari MANUFACTURING: Seija Huhtanen
KADRI NIIN COOPERATIVES: OÜ Starfur, Lindante OÜ, Estonian Fur Federation. PHOTO: Akribia photo studio MODEL: Kaidi Põld
ERNESTO HINOJOSA DANIELA-dress PHOTO: Julia Lillqvist and Amanda Bieber (NOVIA) HAIR: Satu Lönnblad (CENTRIA) MODEL: Laura
CREATIVE WORKSHOPS AURORA BOREALIS MENTOR: Basil Kardasis COOPERATIVES: Finnish Fur Farmers, Modifur, Ahlskog Leather ,Nordic Elk ® by Bröderna Brandt Läderfabrik Team Leather Point S.r.l (Italy) PHOTO: Pertti Puranen MODEL: Sari Saranpää MAKE UP: Salon Aino Kaarina MUSIC WITH FUR MENTOR: Basil Kardasis COOPERATIVES: Ahlskog Leather, Finnish Fur Farmers (Pohjois-Suomen Turkiseläinten Kasvattajat ry
and Svenska Österbottens Pälsdjursodlarförening rf), Sagafurs, Modifur, Kemin Nahkatarvike, blacksmith Peter Hedman RHYTHM OF LIFE by May Björklund PHOTO: Pertti Puranen MODEL: Wu Ling MAKE UP: Salon Aino Kaarina SEALS in co-operation with Kvarken Council MENTORS: Basil Kardasis and Lis-Mari Jansson COOPERATIVES: Regional Council of Ostrobothnia, West Finland Regional Environment Centre, Metsähallitus – Environmental services in Western Finland, Svenska Österbottens jaktvårdsdistrikt (Game District of Swedish Otrobothnia), Österbottens Yrkesfiskare (Ostrobothnia fishery association), LänsiPohja County Administrative Board, Västernorrland County Administrative Board, Jägareförbundet i Västerbotten ja Västerbottens Fiskareförbund (Västerbotten game and fishery associations). PHOTO: Patricia Rodas & Dragos Alexandrescu MODEL: Nina Ekholm SET: Österbottens museum, Vaasa MidnightBLUESfox in Manhattan MENTOR: Basil Kardasis COOPERATIVES: Finnish Fur Farmers, Modifur, Ahlskog Leather PHOTO: Pertti Puranen MODELS: Lumi - Jenni Kurunmäki and Emilio - Valter Holmström CLOTHES: Shirt: Dressmann, Shoes: Shoe Stop SET: Rumtec, Vimpeli ASSISTANCE: Jenni Kurunmäki, Laura Leiniö, Sanna Panula STARRY,STARRY NIGHT AND DAY MENTOR: Basil Kardasis COOPERATIVES: Finnish Fur Farmers, Modifur, Ahlskog Leather PHOTO: Pertti Puranen MODELS: Kristian Kojola & Jens Portin, FF Jaro ASSISTANCE: Katja Remes, Noora Huotari, Sirpa Mannila, Kati Mesiranta-Tynkkynen and Mia Ristioja (accessories)
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Acknowledgements
MARRIAGE A LA MODE MENTOR: Basil Kardasis COOPERATIVES: Finnish Fur Farmers , Modifur, Ahlskog Leather,Fa.Bamoda, Italy PHOTO: Pertti Puranen MODELS: Le Thi Thuy, Justus Jokitalo, Esther Ogbonnika MAKE UP: Salon Aino Kaarina SHOES: Shoe Stop SET: Aspegrens gardens ASSISTANCE: Eeva Jokelainen, Mia Ristioja, Maria Lindborg (textile print), NOVIA ROCCO MENTOR: Basil Kardasis COOPERATIVES: Finnish Fur Farmers, Iliari (Peru), Marks, Fa.Bamoda (Italy), Oy Pasion Ltd, blacksmith Peter Hedman, Ulla Huhtakangas (accessories) PHOTO: Pertti Puranen MODEL: Kristian Kojola, FF Jaro
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ONE STEP A-HEAD MENTOR: Basil Kardasis COOPERATIVES: Finnish Fur Farmers, Ahlskog Leather, Modifur, Kemin nahkatarvike PHOTO: Pertti Puranen MODEL: Camilla Löf-Kahari MAKE UP: Salon Aino Kaarina SET: The Town Museum of Pietarsaari ASSISTANCE: Aino Tapanainen, Satu Back, Irina Lazhieva FUR & FURNITURE MENTOR: Basil Kardasis and Pia Blomström COOPERATIVES: Finnish Fur Farmers, Modifur, Alskog Leather,Kemin nahkatarvike Oy, Seinäjoki University of Applied Sciences/School of Culture and Design/Experimental Design Lab Project, Nordic Elk ® by Bröderna Brandt Läderfabrik Ab, May Björklund, Seija Huhtanen, Lennol, VM-Carpet ASSISTANCE: Eeva Jokelainen, Satu Back, Irina Lazhieva, Piia Mikkola, Aino Tapanainen, Karl Ehnvall (woodwork) PHOTO: Pertti Puranen and CENTRIA/Pia Blomström ACCESSORIES “BE-FUR” THE FACT MENTOR: Basil Kardasis COOPERATIVES: Finnish Fur Farmers, Modifur, Ahlskog Leather, Nordic Elk ® by Bröderna Brandt Läderfabrik Ab, Kemin nahkatarvike, Kokkotyö-Foundation/Retro,
Kokkola Vocational Institute/Kent Rönnqvist, blacksmith Peter Hedman, Verder & Furmarc (wood work) PHOTO: CENTRIA/Pia Blomström ASSISTANCE: Noora Huotari, Jenny Bärdén, Helena Hyvärinen, Anni Leponiemi
FutureFURstudio SAIL AWAY in co-operation with Baltic Yachts MENTOR: Basil Kardasis COOPERATIVES: Baltic Yachts, Fur farmers of the Ostrobothnia area (Svenska Österbottens Pälsdjursodlarförening rf, youth council), Modifur, Ahlskog Leather, Nordic Elk ® by Bröderna Brandt Läderfabrik Ab, Kemin Nahkatarvike, FurHome, Greece. PHOTO: Ken Kackur VISUALS MODEL: Elina Sironen ASSISTANCE: Karl Ehnvall (metalwork), CENTRIA, Ylivieska (wood work), Katarina Eklund (portfolio), Noora Huotari, Eeva Jokelainen, Irina Lazhieva, Kadri Niin, Elina Sironen, Silvanus Tangen, Aino Tapanainen & Jenna Ylitalo Thank you Baltic Yachts and especially Elisabet Holm, Henrik Sjöblom, Sam Stenberg and Bengt Östman for the cooperation! GRAFFITI MENTOR: Basil Kardasis COOPERATIVES: Finnish Fur Farmers, Atlantic Leather (Iceland), Ahlskog Leather, Modifur, SKA (Italy) , UPMKymmene, Studio Décor GRAFFITI-PAINTINGS: Johannes Iilahti (YA!) GRAFFITI-FILM: Johannes Klemets PHOTO: Pertti Puranen and CENTRIA MODEL: Nicole Haglund/Model Agency Matiné MAKE UP: Studio Aino Kaarina SET: Tobaksmagasinet ZIPPY by Noora Huotari, Lis-Mari Jansson & Aino Tapanainen ASSISTANCE: Noora Huotari, Aino Tapanainen, Amanda Grankulla, Aleksi Heikkilä & Juho Laatikainen, Karl Ehnvall (wood work) ENIGMA ENERGIA MENTOR: Basil Kardasis COOPERATIVES: Finnish Fur Farmers, Atlantic Leather
(Iceland), Fur Home (Greece), Lazaros by Lazaros, Micillo (Italy), Savvidis (Greece), Global Trade Pellicce (Greece) PHOTO: Pertti Teurajärvi ASSISTANCE: CENTRIA Ylivieska (wood work-puzzles), Karl Ehnvall (metal and wood work), Emma Granqist & Aleksi Heikkilä, Maria Hänninen & Jutta Fonselius, YA! (painting of the transport box) ERNESTO HINOJOSA BLACK MAMBA-DRESS COOPERATIVES: ModaTyygi & Ahlskog Leather PHOTO: Pertti Teurajärvi MODEL: Cajsa Forss/ Model Agency Matiné HAIR: Kirsi Viitiö/Salon Henna BLACK MAMBA-COLLECTION COOPERATIVES: ProFur/ Finnish Fur Breeders’ Association, Pohjois-Suomen Turkiseläinten Kasvattajat ry, Svenska Österbottens Pälsdjursodlarförening rf Centria University of Applied Sciences, International Fur Federation, Erikssons Fur, Ahlskog Leather, Modifur, Oy Pasion Ltd, Micillo Italy, Tetrix, Lohikari, Punainen Lanka Novia University of Applied Sciences PHOTO: Fashion show: Pertti Teurajärvi & Mikael Rantalainen Shoes: Ernesto Hinojosa DISCOVERING FUR MODEL: Sofia Pohjanen PHOTO: Pertti Puranen, CENTRIA/Pia Blomström INTERNATIONAL FAIRS CENTRIA/Pia Blomström & Manos Sinopoulos FUR picture page 2, 87 PHOTO: Kackur Visuals
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Love of Skills by FutureFURstudio The most honorable four-letter word in the English language, is ‘Love’. ‘Skills’ is its perfect partner. The ‘In-Laws’ are, Creativity on the Love side, and Education on the Skills side. A marriage made in heaven! Fur is a sacred material created by nature. We use it with Love and Skills to create… Beauty.
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This booklet presents fur design made by students, professional designers and craftsmen at Centria University of Applied Sciences/FutureFURstudio. The project FutureFURstudio is partially funded by the European Union and serves all fields connected to fur trade and design: businesses, designers, teachers and students. The objective has been to encourage the use of fur in design products. The project has been operating mainly within product development services, creative workshops, international marketing and education modules. Bringing together education and the fur industry is the Future of Fur.
ISBN 978-952-6602-48-6