food | MIdWEST of IRELANd
PhotograPhs by Peter Dybowski & DaviD sciora
Clockwise from left, Olivier Beaujouan from On The Wild Side; Limerick’s Milk Market gate; Thomas Ryan, owner of Pónaire Roastery & Coffee Bar; Sarah Woulfe of Sarah’s Pantry; Kirsti O’Kelly of Silver Darlings.
compact urban centre that once thrived on pork production – there’s a telling line in playwright Mike Finn’s homage to his native city, Pigtown, that reflects how snoutto-tail eating once reigned supreme here: “There was nothing left but the squeal!” And although those days of porcine efficiency may have diminished, the city can still be proud of the staunchly traditional butchers, bakers and grocers that continue to serve the citizens on a daily basis. The famous Limerick Milk Market becomes the spiritual home of all things food on a Saturday morning and it’s wise to swing by early to see what’s on offer. The market has a history that stretches back to the mid-19th century, yet is now one of the most modern allweather markets in the country. The recommended first port of call is for coffee at Pónaire Roastery & Coffee Bar – the only hand-crafted coffee roaster in the area – opt for their filter brew, which changes weekly 50 |
June 2013
and, by the taste of things, gs, is chosen by someone who knows their beans. Next, a uniquely regional al Limerick ham sandwich from Peter ter and Mary Ward’s very well-stocked ed Country Choice concession is a good bet. From artisan bakers to Irish cheesesellers, fresh fishmongers rs and organic fruit and vegetable producers, ucers, there is much to indulge the taste buds. As mentioned, meat and butchering have played a large nomic part in the city’s gastronomic ers history and local butchers still have a large slice of the food action, in and out of the market. One such meat seller, fifthgeneration Co Limerick farmer Noel O’Connor, from Pat O’Connor Meats on the city’s William Street, supplies restaurants and consumers not only locally but as far afield as Dublin and London. As Pat explains: “The business