CARA MAGAZINE February March 2013 by Image Publications

cara magazine February/March 2013

CuSTomer maGazine of The Year

rugby player craig Gilroy the Gathering

Northern

Derry-londonderry city of culture 2013

Star

Craig gilroy shines bright at Ulster rUgby

mallorca and menorca

The GaTherinG

new york

Meet some of the hosts behind the events

Faro

DerrY niCe

corfu

Why Derry-Londonderry is City of Culture 2013

iSLe Be There

Balearic belles Mallorca and Menorca

BiG aPPeTiTe

Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s new on NYCâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s restaurant scene February/March 2013

complimentary copy

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Allied Irish Banks, p.l.c., trading as AIB Corporate Banking Ireland, is regulated by the Central Bank of Ireland. Registered Office: Bankcentre, Ballsbridge, Dublin 4, Ireland. Registered in Ireland, No. 24173

AIB Corporate Banking Ireland Making Business Happen

Contents February/March News

07 NEWS DIARY Our pick of things to see and do in February and March 08 ARRIVALS High fliers home for the holidays at Dublin’s T2 10 NEWS HOTELS Urban oases and a luxe beach retreat 12 NEWS RESTAURANTS Eoin Higgins reports, from fine dining to jolly good 14 NEWS SHOppINg Gadgets to Go – Sive O’Brien high-fives new music accessories 16 NEWS BUSINESS Smart Traveller – KBC Bank Ireland’s John Reynolds recommends Brussels’ hotspots 18 NEWS BEAUTY ON THE gO Ellie Balfe spotlights complexion perfectors 20 NEWS pEOpLE What’s In My Suitcase – Facebook’s director of staffing Orna Holland opens up 22 NEWS pEOpLE On My Travels – documentary filmmaker Alex Gibney’s greatest adventures

24 NEWS BOOKS Shelf Life – Bridget Hourican lives vicariously through the latest releases 26 NEWS EVENTS Ireland’s Call – Ireland holds the presidency of the European Union for the first half of 2013. Ben Webb finds out what’s in store 28 NEWS DIARY Turning Green – St Patrick’s Day celebrations around the country

regulars 84 48 HOUrs in FarO ... There’s plenty for the weekender to explore, says Bruno Filipe Pires

Meet the hosts behind The Gathering

60 Balearic beauties

86 an insiDEr’s gUiDE TO cOrFU Local Lia Manesi reveals the Greek island’s gems 91 aEr lingUs inFligHT Your holiday starts here – relax with movies, music and flight information 112 TriP OF a liFETimE Cork’s Cape Clear had a profound effect on Cloud Atlas author David Mitchell

Features 30 THE wingman Rising star Craig Gilroy tells David Robbins about life at Ulster Rugby 36 gaTHEring THE clans The Gathering is Ireland’s year-long reunion. Ben Webb talks to its party hosts 48 nOrTHErn EXPOsUrE Bridget Hourican spotlights DerryLondonderry, this year’s City of Culture

Food trends in New York

60 sUnnY siDE UP Roger Norum island hops between Mallorca and Menorca 72 nEw YOrk EaTs Big apples are so last season. Lizzie Gore-Grimes feasts on the hippest eats as NYC Restaurant Week plates up

Where the action is . . . . . . without the drama see the full stor y unfold at London Heathrow

BRISTOL

BOSTON

WASHINGTON

Welcome to

Hotels

www.doylecollection.com

DUBLIN

CORK

LONDON

group editorial Director Laura George art art Director Clare Meredith aDVertising account Director Clodagh Edwards +353 (0)1 271 9634, clodagh.edwards@image.ie advertising Manager Noëlle O’Reilly +353 (0)1 271 9621, noelle.oreilly@image.ie advertising Copy Contact Derek Skehan +353 (0)1 855 3855, dereks@typeform.ie

Contributors steVe ryan spent his childhood years in Kilkenny dreaming of becoming a pilot: a series of failed eye examinations and altercations with opticians forced him to change track, and he become a photographer instead. He has shot reportage and profile features from Nepal, Thailand, Israel, Palestine, Kosovo and most European countries for a range of editorial clients, including The Financial Times, The Sunday Business Post and Vice Magazine. He lives in London but is considering a move to the Big Apple after sampling the food laid on by the restaurants reviewed in this edition of Cara, see page 72.

aDMinistration acting head of Pr & Promotions Jane O’Brien, +353 (0)1 271 9643, jane.obrien@image.ie office Manager Tina Koumarianos accounts Olga Gordeychuk accounts assistant Lisa Dickenson boarD oF DireCtors Managing Director & Publisher Richard Power, richard.power@image.ie Chairman Robert Power Directors Ann Reihill, Gina Traynor, Patrick Dillon-Malone, Laura George Printing Boylan Print Group origination Typeform Cara magazine is published on behalf of Aer Lingus by Image Publications, 22 Crofton Road, Dun Laoghaire, Co Dublin, Ireland, +353 (0)1 280 8415; advertising sales, +353 (0)1 271 9625; fax +353 (0)1 280 8309; image.ie, email info@image.ie. Company registration number 56663 © Image Publications Ltd. All rights reserved. Editorial material and opinions expressed in Cara magazine do not necessarily reflect the views of Aer Lingus or IMAGE Publications Ltd. Aer Lingus and IMAGE Publications Ltd do not accept responsibility for the advertising content. Please note that unsolicited manuscripts or submissions will not be returned. All material is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. Production in whole or part is prohibited without prior permission from IMAGE Publications Ltd.

DaViD MitChell is the author of five novels, two of which, Number9Dream (2001) and Cloud Atlas (2004), were shortlisted for the Booker Prize. The latter is now a blockbuster film starring Tom Hanks, Halle Berry, Susan Sarandon and Hugh Grant – and one of the most expensive independent movies of all time. Born in the UK, nomadic Mitchell has lived in Italy and Japan before settling in Cork, with his Japanese wife Keiko and their two children. A visit to Cape Clear in 1997 set the wheels in motion for a move there in 2003, proving that you don’t always have to travel halfway around the world or climb a volcano to have a transformative experience. Read about how the sci-fi writer fell in love with the very down-to-Earth West Cork on page 112.

Cara magazine is a member of Magazines Ireland. IMAGE Publications Ltd is a member of the Press Council of Ireland and supports the Office of the Press Ombudsman. To contact the Press Ombudsman, visit pressombudsman.ie or presscouncil.ie

CuSTomer maGazine of The Year

Northern

Star

IMAGE Publications Ltd –

PUBLISHING COMPANY OF THE YEAR 2010 to aDVertise PLEASE CALL NOËLLE O’REILLY ON +353 (0)1 271 9621 OR EMAIL NOELLE.OREILLY@IMAGE.IE

Craig gilroy shines bright at Ulster rUgby

The GaTherinG

Meet some of the hosts behind the events

DerrY niCe

Why Derry-Londonderry is City of Culture 2013

iSLe Be There

Balearic belles Mallorca and Menorca

BiG aPPeTiTe

What’s new on NYC’s restaurant scene February/March 2013

complimentary copy

on the CoVer

Craig Gilroy of Ulster Rugby photographed by Richard Gilligan

PHOTOGRAPH BY ZHENYUAN LIU

eDitorial editor Frances Power acting Deputy editor Lucy White editorial assistant Méabh McDonnell Contributors Sive O’Brien, Amanda Cochrane, Ellie Balfe

At the Irish Magazine Awards in December, Cara was awarded Customer Magazine of the Year 2012 (left, editor Frances Power accepts the award). Naturally, we’re delighted that the changes we’ve made since we took over the publication in summer 2011 were recognised. We’ve loved working with talented photographers (such as Trevor Hart, Matthew Thompson and Richard Gilligan) and writers such as Joseph O’Connor, Emma Donoghue and John Butler. We’ve aimed to put Irish people and Irish stories at the heart of the magazine, as wellll as providing lots of travel info and tips to help readers find the best of whichever Aer Lingus destination they are visiting. Here’s to another good year of flying – and reading – in 2013!

Blarney Castle & Gardens Renowned for bestowing the gift of eloquence

See and feel Irelands heritage, built nearly six hundred years ago by one of Irelandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s greatest chieftains. Spend the day exploring the extensive grounds and gardens.

Open all year round 5 miles from Cork Open Monday- Sunday 9-6 www.blarneycastle.ie info@blarneycastle.ie n

news Diary

February/March 14

Key dates for your diary.

Carnival of Venice Dust off your powdered wigs, finest crinolines and wittiest Shakespearean quips – the Venetian carnival returns in a blaze of bouffants and excessive amounts of rouge. From flamboyant masked balls to sumptuous gala dinners, 18th century dance workshops to best dressed competitions, the city’s stradas and canals will be alive with the sounds of Mozart, Verdi and swishing skirts. Until February 12; carnevale.venezia.it.

Jameson Dublin international Film Festival Calling all cinophiles – The Jameson Dublin International Film Festival (JDIFF) has come to town. Along with a huge selection of the best in global cinema, this year the JDIFF will host internationally acclaimed actor, director and producer Danny DeVito for a special tribute. Other highlights include Oscar-winning composer Dario Marianelli (Atonement, Pride and Prejudice and Anna Karenina), who presents a performance of his compositions in the National Concert Hall. Runs February 14-24; jdiff.com.

aer LinGUs FLIES FROM DUBLIN tO VeniCe tUE, tHU AND SAt.

st Valentine’s shrine, Dublin Taking a loved one to the site of a dead man’s remains on February 14 might not sound like the world’s most romantic gesture. But when said remains belong to none other than St Valentine, it’s a different story. Every year couples make a pilgrimage to Dublin’s Whitefriar Street Church where a shrine commemorates the patron saint of love, whose relics were bequeathed to Irish Carmelite John Spratt by Pope Gregory XVI in 1836. For one day only the reliquary is moved to the high altar for special masses, including a short Blessing of the Rings ceremony; carmelites.ie/ireland/whitefriarst.

easter Festival, Prague Cultural traditions don’t get much more eyebrow-raising than Prague’s Easter antics: males whack females with wooden whips and douse them with ice-cold water, and women reward their efforts with hand-painted eggs. These are among the more bizarre sideshows of Prague’s annual celebration of spring, fertility and youth, the Old Town and Wenceslas Squares packed with handicraft and food markets. Runs March 16-April 7.

aer LinGUs FLIES FROM DUBLIN tO PraGUe DAILy.

alice’s adventures in wonderland, royal Opera House, London Don’t be late for this very important date! The Royal Ballet breathes new life into Lewis Carroll’s surreal adventure, taking audiences on a journey of astounding choreography brilliant with colour and larger-than-life characters. So grab your maddest hat and enjoy. Runs March 15-April 13; roh.org.uk. aer LinGUs FLIES FROM DUBLIN, cORk AND SHANNON tO LOnDOn HeatHrOw DAILy.

FEBRUARY/MARCH 2013

| 7

PHOtOGRAPH By JOHAN PERSSON

Arrivals

Cara magazine was at Dublin Airport’s T2 recently to meet some of the Aer Lingus passengers coming home for the holidays. Photographs by Anthony Woods.

 Parents-to- be JaSon, and melanie byrne, are home from their unofficial “baby-moon” in Germany. With twins on the way they took a last opportunity to visit melanie’s parents.

 The Samir GirlS, from left, Sophia, mum Gillian and elena flew from their home in cairo to spend a holiday in Gillian’s native Ireland. The girls were looking forward to exploring around dublin.

 John browne, and GreTa ScoTlanD, were fresh off the plane from their holiday in houston, Texas, where they attended a nephew’s graduation from college.

 colm and KaThleen Daffy, left, met KaTie Daffy and philip iSarD, right, as they arrived from Toronto. The couple were off to Kildare for a few weeks.

Words by méabh mcdonnell donnell

 be best friends paTricia ThabeTh, left, and ThabeTh orla purcell purcell, right, have just returned from the ultimate girls ultima weekend – a shopping trip in manhattan.

 miriam Kaye, left, was back in Ireland for the first time in over a year, there to greet her were her siblings ray, centre and Órla, right.

FEBRUARY/MARCH 2013

 london-based harry haSTinGS flew into dublin for a few days to see his girlfriend and was looking forward to staying with her family in donnybrook.

lauren o’reilly had a long flight home from Perth, so was delighted to see Johnny GallaGher, and the rest of her family in T2. They got up at the crack of dawn and drove all the way from bundoran to dublin just to meet her.

There’s a certain class of driver who doesn’t think residual value is important.

The ŠKODA Superb. According to independent research carried out by Motorcheck.ie, the ŠKODA Superb retains its value better than any other car in its class. So if you’re in the market for an executive car that delivers both value and luxury, the smartest choice is the ŠKODA Superb. Any other decision would be bananas. skoda.ie

facebook.com/skodaireland twitter.com/skodaIRL

61% 60%

Retained Value After 3 Years

55% 52%

52%

50%

47%

43%

45% 40%

ŠK OD A

Fo rd Su pe rb

M on de o

Op el In si

Pe ug eo t4 gn 07 ia

Motorcheck.ie is Ireland‘s leading car history website specialising in data and intelligence for both consumer and trade users. Residual value research was conducted on bestselling diesel models sold in the Republic of Ireland in 2009. Average advertised prices as from July 2012 were used to calculate the level of value retention. Manufacturer‘s ex-works list prices were used for calculation purposes. Total sample size was 12,530 vehicles. Where exact variant matches were not available, the closest match was used. Statistical smoothing techniques are practiced by Motorcheck.ie to remove discrepancies in each sample. Some vehicles were omitted from the analysis as the sample size could not make accurate conclusions. Bestselling models used in this research include: ŠKODA Superb GreenLine 1.9TDI, Ford Mondeo 1.8 TDCI LX, Opel Insignia 2.0 CDTi Ecoflex SC, Peugeot 407 1.6 HDI Ultra, Mazda 6 2.0 TDi Executive SE, Citroen C5 1.6 HDI Dynamique, Renault Laguna 1.5DCI Privilege.

M az da

Ci tr oe n

Re na ul tL ag un a

news hotels

Escape

Music lover? Minimalist? Indulge your passions at new hotels in Brooklyn and Paris … hotel De nell, Paris

Minimalist fans will be stroking their Helmut Lang sleeves with joy at the Hotel de nell. Located in Paris’s 9th arrondissement, the 19th-century property’s stark white façade sets the tone for an elegant interior of 33 rooms and suites boasting natural wood panelling, underfloor heating, fireplaces and pure white marble, Japanese-style bathrooms. the brainchild of architect Jean-Michel Wilmotte, it strikes that precarious balance between super sleek and super comfortable, while France’s leading chef Bruno doucet showcases the equally smartcasual concept of bistronomie in his La Régalade restaurant. Rooms start at €225. 7-9 Rue du Conservatoire, +33 153 249 898; hoteldenell.com aer lingus FLIES FROM duBLIn tO Paris dAILY.

hotel Bela Vista, Portugal

Whether you’re a golfer in search of some play, or a sun seeker looking for lounge time, the Algarve has plenty to delay you. Check out this old charmer – the Hotel Bela Vista was one of the first hotels to open in the area and still commands prime beach frontage but these days, freshly reopened after an extensive refurb, with a twostorey extension, luxurious new L’Occitane spa and palm-fringed pool with day beds, it’s every inch the 21st century boutique hotel. Innovative Portuguese cuisine from Chef Rogério Calhau delivers the freshest seafood in piquant ways. Rooms from €230. Praia da Rocha, Portimão, +351 282 460 280; hotelbelavistaalgarve.com aer lingus FLIES FROM duBLIn tO Faro On tuE, tHuR, And SAt.

tworooMsinDuBlin, DuBlin

walDorF astoria, Berlin

Berliners are famous for nicknaming their most cherished landmarks, and the Waldorf Astoria has its own unofficial title, the Zoofenster, or “Zoo Window”. Located in the heart of Berlin’s City West, the newly opened hotel has panoramic views, including the Berlin Zoological Garden and the “lipstick and powderbox” aka the Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church. Contemporary in feel, but with some strong Art deco features, it has 232 rooms, suites and apartments, each with Wi-Fi, plus an indoor pool and a Guerlain Spa. French fusion food – classic French cooking with a fresh modern outlook – is served in the restaurant, Les Solistes by Pierre Gagnaire. Rooms from €210. Hardenbergstrasse 28, +49 30 8140 000; waldorfastoria.com aer lingus FLIES FROM FROM duBLIn tO Berlin dAILY.

Calling all amateur photographers! Professional snapper Garvan not only coruns this charming B&B – which, as the name suggests, has just two (double) guest rooms – but also hosts digital SLR photography workshops for patrons. His creative eye is partly responsible for the 1834 property’s elegant interior; an oasis from Summerhill’s gritty realism. the emphasis here is on entertaining, and the art of conversation – there are no tVs in rooms, only vintage Roberts Radios, and the family bathroom is shared. However, there is free Wi-Fi, 100 per cent Egyptian cotton bedding, an open fire and private patio in the garden room, and hearty breakfasts cooked to order. Rooms €90 (min two-night stay). 18 Summer Street north, 087 415 8304/086 822 5572; tworoomsindublin.com

art museum in the US to CUBIST DREAMS A century ago, the Art Institute of Chicago became the first than 250 of his paintings, present Picasso’s work. From February 20 until May 12 2013, it presents more du for more information. sculptures, prints and drawings acquired over the hundred years since; artic.e 10 |

FEBRUARY/MARCH 2013

Like us on Facebook! ‘Arnotts Department Store’

news restaurants

Food File

From poshed-up classics in NYC to the best of fine dining in Mayo, Eoin Higgins highlights culinary hot-spots. HatCH & sOns, DuBLIn

Simple, Irish food, served in a contemporary way. That’s the ethos behind this charming little café/restaurant in the basement of a magnificent Georgian building on St Stephen’s Green, in the heart of Dublin. Think the best of Irish: floury blaas (soft white bread rolls, unique to the Waterford region), a robust beef and Guinness stew, the cream of Irish cheeses, freshly sourced, and simply prepared fish and meat, and you’ll have some idea of what to expect. Lovely breakfast options too. The café resides in the same building as the quirky Little Museum of Dublin, so a bite and some historical social oddities of Dublin is a morning, or afternoon, well spent, without having to raise a brolly to the sky. Dublin as it should be. 15 St Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2, 01 661 0075.

ParM, new YOrK

aer LIngus FLIeS FrOM DuBLIN AND COrk TO aMsterDaM DAILY.

Sister to restaurant-of the-minute Torissi, which is conveniently located next-door, Parm is the tearaway teenage, gum-chewing, spaghetti-slinging foil to her older sister’s uptown sophistication. Continuing the 2012 theme of poshed-up low-rent classics, Parm delivers Italian/American staples just like Mamma (if she went to culinary school) used to make. Think meatball heroes, garlic bread, chicken parmigiana, and so forth, executed with love and accomplished gastro know-how. For those who don’t fancy the two-month wait for a tasting table at Torissi, Parm is just the kind of New York City cheap date you’ve been craving. 248 Mulberry Street, +1 212 993 7189; parmnyc.com aer LIngus FLIeS FrOM DuBLIN TO new YOrK DAILY.

La FOugÈre, MaYO

Out in the wilds of the west, Mayo’s knockranny House Hotel is a calming retreat and home to crackling turf fires, polite, old-school service and stunning views of pilgrimage hotspot Croagh Patrick. An enticing destination, which won AA Hotel of the Year 2012/13, and then there’s the restaurant: a French number that uses the best of the locality’s produce, from game to organically farmed fruit and veg and whatever its much-loved chef Seamus Commons can forage from the hinterland. La Fougère proudly maintains two AA rosettes – testament to its firm standing for fine dining in the west. Westport, Co Mayo, 098 28600; knockrannyhousehotel.ie

taLes & sPIrIts, aMsterDaM

A hot-headed young Turk in the kitchen; attractive, friendly staff out front; and a marvellously creative cocktail list are ingredients enough for a fun evening out in Amsterdam. And that’s precisely what we have here with the city’s hippest, new opening. Inside, the cosy interior combines a smart selection of vintage barware and modern touches with glowing chandeliers. On the menu, small plates of excellently eccentric things abound – make sure to try the Brussels sprouts dusted in bacon powder. Having equal billing, the cocktail list also sports no small amount of cutting-edge creativity. A perfect evening of short orders and long drinks. Lijnbaanssteeg 5-7, Amsterdam,+31 655 356 467; talesandspirits.com

m & Arts (Galway) host their second Western smorgasbord ... February 5 sees the GMIT College of Touris experiences and many of annual Foodie Forum, an interactive event featuring workshops, great dining er ... definitely worth a nibble; gmit.ie the biggest stars of Irish cooking, such as the Cliff House’s Martijn Kajuit 12 |

FEBRUARY/MARCH 2013

33 EXCHEQUER STREET, DUBLIN 2 +3531 6707238 WWW.THEGREENHEN.COM

OPEN 7 DAYS 2 COURSE LUNCH €17.00 3 COURSE LUNCH €19.00

EARLY BIRD MENU 2 COURSES €19.50 3 COURSES €22.00

A LA CARTE MENU EXTENSIVE WINE LIST GREAT COCKTAILS

news shoPPing

gadgets

TO gO

Keep your groove on while you’re on the move, with the latest music accessories. By Sive O’Brien.

Portable sPeaker Jawbone Jambox, €149 at pcworld.ie

waterproof Mp3/ipod caSe Aquabourne, €18.40 at gadgetsuk.com

electricity-free Speaker ibamboo.com, €22

Underwater Mp3, aqUabeat by Speedo, from €69 at pixmania.ie.

MUSic-playing goggleS Oakley, €599 at ie.oakley.com

cr40 Mini tUrntable Crosley, €123 at juno.co.uk

Speaker caSe Boom Case, from €265 at theboomcase.com

14 |

FEBRUARY/MARCH 2013

Stereo recorder Tascam iM2, €79 at rockshop.de

p3 earphoneS Bowers & Wilkins, €207 at amazon.co.uk.

Consult the big ďŹ sh this side of the pond.

Think Foreign Direct Investment in Ireland and thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s one name you need to know - Danske Bank. Our team of advisors are on hand to provide local insight with international experience. For more information, contact Stephen Mullin on +353 (0)1 484 2841 or stephen.mullin@danskebank.ie www.danskebank.ie

LC6003 Danske Bank A/S (trading as Danske Bank) is authorised by The Danish FSA in Denmark and is regulated by the Central Bank of Ireland for conduct of business rules.

news Business travel

Smart traveller

Best spots for networking in Brussels and lunching in Lisbon? Lisa Hughes reports.

LITTLE BLaCk BOOk Brussels As chief executive of KBC Bank Ireland and president of the Irish Banking Federation, John Reynolds spends a lot of time in Brussels. He tells us his favourite places to do business. Brussels is my favourite city for business because … I enjoy its Eurocrat-honed amenities, exceptional restaurants at every price level, and bars that even to Irish eyes are entertainingly hospitable. Best hotel … Best of all and accordingly expensive is the Hotel amigo (Rue de l’Amigo 1-3, +32 2 547 4747; hotelamigo.com) located just off the Grand Place. Somewhat more affordable is the radisson Blu royal Hotel (Rue du Fossé aux Loups 47, +32 2 219 2828; radissonblu. com/royalhotel-brussels) and le Méridien (Carrefour de L’Europe 3, +32 2 548 4211, lemeridienbruxelles.fr), both conveniently located. Meanwhile, the recently refurbished Crowne Plaza (Rue Gineste 3, +32 2 203 6200; crowneplaza brussels. be) is within walking distance of the Grand Place. Business lunch … In Brussels, cooking of distinction is a given. Ogenblik (Galerie des Princes 1, +32 2 511 6151;

ogenblik.be) is a classic business lunch venue with wonderful food and a characterful ul interior. Also popular is la roue d’Or (Rue des Chapeliers 26, +32 2 514 2554; 54; resto.be/rouedor), an oldschool bistro with fantastic seasonal fare. Finally, as wow as pleasingly low-key Brussels gets, Belga Queen (Rue du Fossé aux Loups 32, +32 2 217 2187; belgaqueen.be), combines razzmatazz with Belgian authenticity, ie, great food. Best place for business drinks … ralph’s Bar (Place du Luxembourg 13, +32 2 230 1613; ralphsbar.be) and the surrounding area represent a lively and international spot. More touristy is au Daringman (Rue de Flandre 37, +32 2 512 4323), and the earthier late-night jazz bar, l’archiduc (Antoine Dansaert 6, +32 2 512 0652; archiduc. net) – doorbell entry!

5 BEST BUSINESS LUNCHES IN LISBON

Clara Clara If traditional Portuguese fare in a tranquil setting is what you’re after, Clara Clara is for you. This classical Lisbon eatery is known for its quality of service and the garden, offering you the chance to dine in the open air. (Jardim Botto Machado, Campo de Santa Clara, +351 218 850 172; claraclara.com.pt) tasCa Da esQuina This centrally located restaurant is minimal in style but packs a punch with its dishes. The English-speaking staff are passionate about the food and wine on offer. With views onto the busy streets, it’s a great spot for people watching. (Rua Domingos Sequeira, 41C, +351 210 993 939; tascadaesquina.com) Olivier aveniDa Offering an eclectic menu of Portuguese cuisine mixed with flavours of the Med, this cosmopolitan restaurant is located in the four-star Tivoli Jardim Hotel in downtown Lisbon and is a popular business lunch choice with the city’s corporate set. (Rua Júlio César Machado 7/9, +351 213 174 105; restaurante-olivier.com) Darwin’s Get the creative juices flowing in this spacious restaurant, which is decorated with pictures based on Darwin’s originals drawings. Full of charm, the restaurant offers views over the Tagus River and the Belem Tower and is a perfect place for an informal, inexpensive meeting. (Av. Brasília, Ala B, Riverside, +351 210 480 222; darwincafe.com) Museu Da CerveJa Dine in the city’s famous Terreiro do Paço square in the Museum of Beer’s effortlessly sophisticated restaurant. Expect the best Portuguese seafood and shellfish in a relaxed setting. (Terreiro do Paço – Ala Nascente 62-65, +351 210 987 656; museudacerveja.pt)

2 Doing business in Brussels for the first time … The queue for taxis from the airport into town is often long so take the rail service, which is frequent, fast and cheap. Brussels must-do … The Grand Place, Musee Horta – and two exceptional chocolatiers in a city renowned for its chocolate: wittamer (Place du Grand Sablon 6, +32 2 512 3742; wittamer.com), a brilliant classic, which has been in business since 1910, and Pierre Marcolini (Rue des Minimes 1, +32 2 514 1206; marcolini.be), a mere 13 years old but stretching the boundaries of chocolate with innovative cocoa creations.

4 5

MUST-HavE TravEL gadgET lOGITeCH TOuCH MOuse T620 The perfect compromise for users who still want a traditional mouse – but also want the functionality of a touch pad. With its ultra-sleek design, the Logitech Touch Mouse T620 is built with navigating Windows 8 in mind, and available at logitech.com, Harvey Norman and Peats from €69.99. 16 |

FEBRUARY/MARCH 2013

Museu da Cerveja

Stanley Watson

Partner |Head of London Office

The first rule of success Surround yourself with the best One of Europeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most innovative law firms, Financial Times Innovative Lawyers Report 2012 Client Choice 2012 award, International Law Office Law Firm of the Year: Republic of Ireland, The Lawyer European Awards 2011

The success of any law firm can be measured by the quality of its people and its clients. We have the best of both. Stanley Watson, Head of our London Office, leads a team of corporate, banking and financial services lawyers, which focuses on advising international companies, financial institutions and private equity houses doing business in and through Ireland.

Matheson. The law firm of choice for international companies and financial institutions doing business in and through Ireland. Contact Stanley at stanley.watson@matheson.com or your usual contact at Matheson.

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nEWS BEAUTY

Beauty on THE go

It’s the most important element of your make-up but the right face base can be hard to choose. Ellie Balfe selects some top complexion perfectors.

A new foundation is hitting the counters in February ry and it’s a very ry noteworthy one in indeed. Lancôme ha has merged iits iconic Visionnaire serum Visionnair m with a light lightweight foundation to foundatio create Te Teint Visionnaire, €45. Visionnair 5. The finis finish on the skin is su sublime and the skincar skincare benefits efits undeniable. As an added bonus bonus, there is also a great concealer er cleverly hidden in the lid. MAC F Face & Body, €36.50, has cult product status and for good reason. It is loved by make-up artists for its sheer, ultra-natural finish that can be applied layer by layer to achieve the coverage you desire without caking or looking over-done. As with other MAC products, the shade range is extensive and excellently on point. There truly is a tone for all here. Late last year Giorgio Armani launched Maestro, €45, and introduced a new make-up category to the market: fusion make-up – a weightlessly light face base that is reminscent of a BB cream but with

more coverage and a lot more panache. The formula is remarkable; it feels as though there is nothing on skin but there is a definite and near-perfect level of coverage that all ages and all skin types will appreciate. The most exciting foundation launch in recent years from YSL is Teint Touche Éclat, €38. Fans of the famous Touche Éclat were signing waiting lists to try out the foundation version and they were not disappointed. The brand has managed to emulate the radiant finish and the texture is silky smooth, creating a perfectly illuminating, medium-weight foundation that is sure to make the beauty hall of fame.

Finding a good primer that keeps your foundation in place found without changing witho the consistancy or coverage can be cove a case ca of trial and error, and with err so many on the market it’s hard to know which to choose. Irish ch make-up artist mak Ken Boylan Ke tried many but trie never found ne one he was on entirely happ happy with, so he created his own Make up/Play Primer, €25. It has a terrific texture and just enough silicone to create a flawless base for foundation. The one thing that people tend to (wrongly) leave out of their make-up regime is powder. Perhaps they have tried the old-fashioned, talc-based versions and been repelled by the dry finish that settled into every line, but there is no need to fear that any longer. The HD Powder by Make Up For Ever, €33.50, is a featherlight, perfecting powder that is invisible when dusted over the face, yet sets and maintains your base for hours. It’s a revelation.

The Advanced Night A new product is causing quite a stir in beauty circles. tent potion made up of Repair Eye Serum by Estée Lauder, €56, is a super-po ct your peepers. intense hydrators and anti-oxidants primed to perfe 18 |

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MY BEAUTY MUSTS Make-up artist Ken Boylan shares his top p tips for looking great on the move ... What products ts do you recommend for women when travelling? MAC Face & Body is great if you’re going to be in a hot climate. e. You don’t want something mething that will mask a tan and this won’t as the coverage is sheer. You can see freckles through it, which I love – don’t hide your freckles! NARS Multiples are clever sticks of colour which can be used as eyeshadow, blush and bronzer. You can even add a dab to lips; it’s the ultimate multi-tasker. The original Lancôme Hypnose mascara is one of the best for going the distance, it’s inky black and doesn’t crumble in either hot or cold extremes. What are your beauty tips for long plane journeys? Don’t wear any make-up, or at least take it off once you take off. Use a thermal spring water to ensure skin stays at ultimate hydration levels; the Avène thermal water spray is amazing and comes in 50ml bottles that you can take in hand luggage. On board, you have plenty of time to tinker with your skin and I love the REN starter packs that hold mini-versions of its best-selling products. Apply a mask and relax – who really cares what you look like on a flight? Before you land, try to apply a very low-key, make-up look – it will make you feel better. A touch of cream blusher and a tinted lip balm and you’re set. Don’t over do it – you just want to look healthy, not in full make-up! What is your top tip of all time? Get your foundation right. Go back to basics and get that sorted, the rest will follow. If you need it, book a makeup lesson and try a few. Your skin changes throughout life and so should your foundation; staying loyal to one particular product is pointless.

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news people

What’s in my suitcase

She flits between her Dunmore East and Dublin digs, travels to far-flung places as director of staffing at Facebook for Europe, The Middle East and Africa and knows a thing or two about packing smart. Orna Holland gives Sive O’Brien the low-down on how she keeps her cool on home ground and abroad.

le vernis nail colour Chanel, €22 each at Arnotts

wool and silk dress Victoria Beckham, €1,620 at net-a-porter.com room by Emma Donoghue, €12.99 at Easons, O’Connell Street, Dublin 1

cashmere pashmina €145 at lucynagle.com

aviators Ray-Ban, €137, at sunglasses.ie

Biker jacket Iro, €293 at shoppleasedonttell.com

trainers Converse, €52 at Office, Grafton Street, Dublin 2

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tonic Body treatment oil Clarins, €44.73 for 100ml at Debenhams, Henry Street, Dublin 1

tom Ford neroli portoFino perFume €220 for 100ml at Brown Thomas

leather Bracelets €10 each at Topshop

ipad mini from €345 at Arnotts, Henry Street, Dublin 1

leather weekend Bag €270, at Reiss

NEwS PEOPLE

On my Travels

Documentary maker, film producer and director Alex Gibney shares his globe-trotting tales with Sive O’Brien. Oscar, Emmy and Grammy award-winning Alex Gibney is a New Yorker with many hats. One of the most admired visionaries of the screen world, his documentary work – always controversial – sometimes shocking – charts the abuse of power through unflinching investigative journeys through the depths of society. It’s all in a day’s work for this storyteller. His career includes highlights like the highest-grossing documentary of all time, Enron: The Smartest Guys in the Room and Oscar-winning Taxi to the Dark Side. More recently his work has taken him to Ireland to delve into Catholic church scandals and cover-ups, culminating in Mea Maxima Culpa: Silence in the House of God, an Irish co-production. Mea Maxima Culpa: Silence in the House of God is released in cinemas and on volta.ie from February 22, meamaximaculpa.ie. MY PEOPLE CAME FROM … County Sligo and county Westmeath. The Gibneys and Carrolls. I ran into quite a few Gibneys when I was in Belfast too – pure coincidence. THE MOST INTERESTING PLACE I HAVE TRAVELLED TO … was Belfast. After years of hearing about “the Troubles”, it was interesting to go there and hear all the stories lingering just below the peaceful surface.

MY INVESTIGATIVE MIND … is not necessarily innate, as such, but between my father – a journalist, my mother – a writer, and my stepfather – a Presbyterian minister and crusader for civil rights, I certainly was schooled to question authority growing up. THE BEST STORY IS … one in which you stop in the middle and the audience asks, “and then?”

3 TOP FIlm FesTIvals …

NENAGH SILENT FILM FESTIVAL makes its debut. On Valentine’s night a gala screening of the distinctly unromantic vampire movie Nosferatu takes place, with live musical accompaniment from 3epkano, while other highlights at the Tipperary event include the premiere of actor Bryan Murray’s new short Dinner For One, and a masked ball. Runs February 14-17. nenaghsilentfilmfestival.com

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SuNDANCE LONDON presents 14 European premieres selected from January’s Utah event. Under the auspices of festival president Robert Redford, each film screening will be attended by its director, while panel discussions, live music and guest speakers will have cinema fans all starryeyed in the colossal O2 arena. Runs April 5-28, with its indie counterpart September 25-26. sundance-london.com

I’M AT MY HAPPIEST wHEN I AM … with my family in a faraway place or hitting a topspin backhand in tennis, for a winner. THE FuNNIEST THING THAT HAPPENED TO ME wHILE TRAVELLING … was when I married a couple on a ship from Yokohama in Japan to Nahodka in Russia. MY uLTIMATE ESCAPE IS … on an island off the coast of Maine. THE MOST FASCINATING CuLTuRE IS … the most diverse. There’s nothing worse, in my mind, than “preserving culture”, as if it were the lactobacillus culture in sourdough bread. The most interesting places are where many cultures collide. THE BEST THING ABOuT TRAVEL IS … getting there. It’s like pressing re-boot on the computer. I’M DRAwN TO … the Galapagos Islands. Whenever I think about them I am reminded of John Huston in Chinatown talking about tide pools, saying “it’s where life begins.” IF I COuLD GO ANYwHERE IN THE wORLD … it would have to be Tierra del Fuego, it’s an archipelago off the southernmost tip of South America. I don’t know why. Something about the wind, the ocean and the end of the Americas. MY ONE PIECE OF ADVICE FOR THE GLOBAL TRAVELLER IS … don’t be afraid to ask stupid questions. They almost always get the best answers.

TRIBECA FILM FESTIVAL celebrates its twelfth outing this year, an estimated three million cinophiles are set to attend. The programme has yet to be announced at the time of writing, however, there’ll be heaps of international premieres, art exhibitions and concerts – so a perfect excuse to go celeb spotting in downtown Manhattan this spring. Runs April 17-28. tribecafilm.com

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news books

Shelf Life

Lives well lived: Bridget Hourican picks out works of literary, artistic and historic reflections. »NON-FICTION

Ha Hanging Man, the Arrest of th Ai Weiwei, by Jonathan Reggio Jo (Faber and Faber, (F £14.99), out £1 on March 21. In October 2010, 2010 Ai Weiwei’s “Sunflower Seeds” appeared in the Turbine Hall in the Tate Modern. The work consists of a hundred million porcelain “seeds”, each individually hand-painted in the town of Jingdezhen by 1,600 Chinese artisans. In April 2011, this most famous living Chinese artist and activist was arrested at Beijing airport and held for almost three months on charges of tax evasion. After his release, Jonathan Reggio managed to interview him about his imprisonment and intentions. Hanging Man is an exploration of Weiwei’s life, art, activism and his campaign for democracy and accountability in China.

»NON-FICTION

»FICTION

In Diamond Tr Trespassers: A Square by Mercè Sq Memoir, by Julia Me Rodoreda (Virago, Ro O’Faolain (Faber O’ £14.99), out on £1 and Faber, £14.99), an March 7. It’s Ma out on March 7. ou Barcelona in the Ba At 80, grande early 1930s and ea dame of Irish da Natalia, a pretty shop-girl from the literature Julia O’ O’Faolain has a working-class quarter of Gracia, is story to tell: her father was the hesitant when a stranger asks her to writer, former IRA man, and HOT dance at the fiesta in Diamond dissident Seán Ó Faoláin; her STuFF Square. But they marry and mother was the writer Eileen “Science, humour and have two children. When Joe Gould. Herself a noted lemurs” is the theme of k13, or starts breeding pigeons, the novelist and short story kosmopolis 2013, Barcelona’s birds delight his son and writer, Julia lived in Rome biennial literature festival. Expect daughter – and infuriate and Paris before settling talks, workshops, reading clubs, art his wife. Then the Spanish in Los Angeles. Frank exhibitions, a literary café, and Civil War erupts. Natalia O’Connor, Hubert Butler, an experimental TV channel; remains in Barcelona while Patrick Kavanagh, Harold March 14-16; cccb.org/ Joe goes to fight the fascists. Acton and Violet Trefusis had kosmopolis One by one his birds fly away. walk-on parts in her life. This First published in 1962, this classic is the story of the 20th-century’s – called by Garcia Marquez “the literary and artistic world, and most beautiful novel published of Ireland and its eccentrics, told in Spain since the Civil War” – by an insider who always felt like is reissued in a new translation. a trespasser.

1 sold out Dublin’s 2012, Fishamble’s Tiny Plays for Ireland rch Ma in s: sion mis sub 0 1,70 rs, acto 5 IN BRIEF 50 short plays, eve Binchy, Colum returns with the last 25, with plays by Ma le amb Fish Now s. play 25 t firs the Project Arts Centre with 7-30; projectartscentre.ie pshot of contemporary Ireland; March sna A lic. pub the of ers mb me and n McCann, Pauline McLyn

Who’s reading what? Wh

Novelist Elizabeth Day shares her travel reads. No wHA ARe YoU ReADinG? wHAT The House of Mirth by Edith Wharton. I did The Age of Wha Innocence at school, then Inno forgot about her for the best forg part of 20 years and am now par trying to re-educate myself. tryin wHeRe ARe YoU wH ReADinG iT? Anywhere Re I can: the train, the bus, the plane, in bed and – my th favourite place to read – in fa the bath. Not all at the same th time though. fAVoURiTe PLACe To VisiT? Venice is the

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only city I’ve ever been to that looks better in reality than the paintings you see of it. Also, I’ve only ever been to Los Angeles for work, but I love the dirty glamour of the place – and that un-cynical optimism that seems to pump through the American atmosphere. besT book To TAke on HoLiDAY? It’s not exactly a beach read but I picked up Room by Emma Donoghue at an airport and was totally gripped from beginning to end. I’ve recommended it to a number

of friends going on holiday and have a 100 per cent success rate. book YoU wisH YoU’D neVeR TAken? I adore George Eliot. But I read The Mill on the Floss with a stomach upset picked up while I was backpacking round Mexico. It will forever be associated in my mind with nausea, heat and the vague smell of tequila. Great book though. Elizabeth Day’s second novel, Home Fires (Bloomsbury £11.99), is published on March 14.

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news dIary

Ireland’s Call

Ireland holds the presidency of the Council of the EU for the first six months of 2013. So what’s in store? Ben Webb reports.

his year, as Ireland takes Enterprise Ireland, Tourism Ireland over the presidency of the and Bord Bia are all swinging into European Union, it celebrates action. And with the presidency its 40th anniversary as an also coinciding with The Gathering EU member. As 2013 has also been – Ireland’s open house invitation to designated European Year of the the world – it promises to be a very Citizen, it is a perfect time to take busy year indeed. stock of the marriage. In the short term, the presidency There is no doubt Ireland’s is also an opportunity for postrelationship with Europe has been Celtic Tiger Ireland to show Europe financially beneficial. In the first that it has emerged from the three decades of EU membership economic doldrums and is looking Ireland got more than €17 billion optimistically to the future. The in Structural and Cohesion funds, financial services and property while Irish farmers received sectors may have fallen away, but €44 billion under the Common Ireland’s tourism and agriculture Agricultural Policy between 1973 industries – traditional strengths – and 2008. are fighting back. But it’s not just about money. “We want to show everyone we Ireland has become a strong, are over the trauma of the last few influential diplomatic voice that is years and that Ireland is open for reflected in EU policymaking. Some business,” says Creighton. “The sky critics have suggested leaving the has not fallen in. We are standing euro in the wake of the recession, but on our own two feet. Ireland is the Irish are now proud Europeans. now better value than ever for Divorce is not on the cards. tourists and for investors. But it’s “I am planning a series of public not just about business; it’s about debates across Ireland about what showing our culture, too. After we have achieved as a member state a recent meeting in Dublin with of the European Union over the representatives from more than 50 past four decades,” says Ireland’s countries we went for a night out Minister for European Affairs, on Baggot Street. They were blown Lucinda Creighton. “And, more away by the welcome.” importantly, about the sort of union Politically, the presidency is all we want our children to grow up in.” about boosting economies and The presidency includes an creating jobs. Ireland has two impressive programme of events that main objectives – to ensure the will attract an estimated 30,000 single market is geared up for the visitors – politicians, business digital marketplace, and to help EU leaders and tourists – to Ireland. exporters. The EU-US Free Trade

3 Key eU events

January to June Historic Dublin Castle is to be the EU presidency HQ for the majority of events and ministerial meetings – more than 15,000 delegates and media are expected from the EU’s 27 member states and beyond. The venue has been awarded the same sustainable and environmental certifications as the London Olympic Games.

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The presidency looks set to attract an estimated 30,000 visitors to Ireland.

Agreement, for example, has been on the to-do list for years, and to get the ball rolling would be a massive achievement for Ireland. “The opportunity to sell our artisan foods and other agri-food products on the East coast would be a huge boost to the industry,” says Creighton. In 2004, when Ireland last held the presidency, the Celtic Tiger was prowling and the army of opinion formers and politicians criss-crossed the land in helicopters and stayed at Dromoland Castle and swish private estates. This year it promises to be a far more down-to-earth event. “This year it’s not about pomp but the deliverables,” Creighton says. “We want to keep the EU machinery moving forward.”

Hunger, nutrItIon and ClImate JustICe april 15-16 The link between climate change and hunger is the theme of this major international conference in Dublin, building on Ireland’s leadership in the area of nutrition and Mary Robinson’s Climate Justice Foundation. High on the agenda will be the impact of climate change on human rights.

dIgItal agenda assembly June 19-20 The Digital Agenda Assembly – the largest presidency event – will be held outside Brussels for the first time. This annual meeting of government, commercial sector and stakeholders aims to reboot Europe’s economy by making the most out of digital technologies. The agenda covers intellectual property rights, cyber security and data protection.

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NEwS DIARY

TURNING Green

Whether you join the national parade, dye your food green or belt out a few bars of punk-rockfolk, this St Patrick’s Day promises to be one to remember, reports Méabh McDonnell.

rom rock concerts, to foodie Catherine Fulvio’s Ballyknocken events, to landmarks all over Cookery School in Co Wicklow the world turning green for is hosting a patriotric tutorial on the occasion, the “traditional” March 17, demonstrating how to St Patrick’s Day has come a long make the perfect Irish stew, soda way. Ireland’s national holiday has bread and Barm Brack. Guests are been transformed in recent years also invited to tour the school’s farm. from a single day devoted to the Meanwhile, as a continuation small-scale parade through the of Tourism Ireland’s international local town, to a week-long cultural “Going Green” campaign, famous festival. Taking place from March landmarks across the globe will be 14 to 18 this year, St Patrick’s dyed in emerald shades to celebrate Festival promises to highlight the the national holiday. Last year saw the very best of what Ireland has to offer. Sydney Opera House, South Africa’s For music lovers, there will Table Mountain, the Leaning Tower be no shortage of home-grown of Pisa and Niagara Falls change entertainment. Rock legends colour in honour of St Patrick. In Aslan will perform in the Olympia 2013, Rio de Janeiro’s iconic Christ Theatre in Dublin for a special St the Redeemer statue will join them. Patrick’s night concert, kicking Other highlight celebrations off a year that celebrates their include “I Love My City” events 30th anniversary. And for those held across Dublin throughout celebrating across the pond, cult the festival. Edelle Moss, acting favourites Dropkick Murphys CEO of St Patrick’s Day Festival, will perform in their annual St is particularly enthusiastic about Patrick’s Day tour, from February these events, “We find that most 21 to March 18, culminating people who travel to Dublin around in three nights in Boston. The festival time take in the parade, and Massachusetts band’s unique the ‘I Love My City’ programme blend of Irish trad and punk rock is to offer a different cultural has sold out audiences worldwide. experience, either pre or post the Their rendition of “Rocky Road to festival’s figurehead events.” With Dublin” guarantees a new-found a mixture of song, dance, poetry love of Irish folk music – once it’s and theatre from some of Ireland’s accompanied by shredding guitar leading performers, they promise riffs and incredible drum solos. to bring something distinct to this But if you prefer holding a whisk year’s St Patrick’s Day. to banging a drumstick, Irish chef The festival is not only a huge

3 ST PATRICK’S FeSTIvAl TReATS ...

AMSTERDAM GAELIC FC INVITATIONAL It wouldn’t be right to celebrate all things Irish without honouring Gaelic games. Amsterdam Gaelic Football Club hosts an international invitational tournament on March 16. As one of continental Europe’s largest GAA clubs, the tenth anniversary event includes dinner and live music. Runs March 16. amsterdamgac.nl

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FEBRUARY/MARCH 2013

Above, The People’s Parade is Dublin’s flagship St Patrick’s Day event, snaking its way through the city in a riot of colour, much to the delight of tourists and natives alike.

event in the Irish tourism calendar but this year it is also one of The Gathering’s biggest events (for more on the year’s events, see page 36). The People’s Parade is an opportunity for visitors to be part of the action. “This will be an unforgettable experience for participants,” says Moss. “We have invited thousands of people from all around the world to participate in the St Patrick’s Day Parade in Dublin on March 17. So far there are participants from over 45 different countries registered.” So whether you decide to be part of the parade, dye your fish pond green or make a fine Irish stew, make this St Patrick’s Day a good one. For more information, stpatricksfestival.ie

LIMERICK INTERNATIONAL BAND FESTIVAL March 17 is a big day out for local and visiting bands, and the next day many will gather for Limerick’s International Band Festival. Now in its 43rd year, the festival is Ireland’s longest-running international band parade and competition. Runs on the bank holiday Monday, March 18. limerick.ie/stpatricksfestival

SOBER ST PATRICK’S DAY, NYC For those who want to experience the day with a clear head, an event called Sober St Patrick’s Day, in New York City, is the place to visit. With a huge trad music session promising to go on into the late hours, it’s expected to be one big party (without the hangover). Runs March 16 at Regis High School, 55 East 84th Street. soberstpatricksday.org

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He’s young, he’s fast and he’s a deadly finisher. Craig Gilroy is going places with Ulster, Ireland and (whisper it) the Lions. He tells David Robbins how he nearly missed out on all this by planning a gap year. Photographs by Richard Gilligan.

The WINGMAN

t is a cold, wintry Saturday in November and the bad-tempered rugby international between Ireland and Argentina is 10 minutes and 30 seconds old. Ireland are on the attack and have a lineout on Argentina’s “22”. The ball comes to outhalf Jonny Sexton. Ulster’s Craig Gilroy has come off his wing to appear at Sexton’s inside shoulder. He takes the pass, side-steps the Argentine outhalf Sánchez and races clear. He still has winger Camacho to beat, and Sexton is calling for a return pass on his right. The try line is now 10 metres away. It is Gilroy’s first Irish cap. There is no way he is going to pass that ball. He steps inside Camacho and slides in for the try. The first man there to congratulate him is Sexton, who nearly knocks him into the Havelock Square end of 30 |

FEBRUARY/MARCH 2013

the ground. “That was probably the hardest I was hit the whole game,” he jokes afterwards. “Jonny took it to the [gain] line and there was a gap inside,” continues Gilroy. “Luckily he put me through. I just remembered seeing a bit of space and sidestepped one of the guys and I knew I was in from there.” The speed of his break that day, the balance of his running and the ease of his sidestep confirmed for a wider audience what people in Ulster rugby had been saying for months: Craig Gilroy is something special. And like many an “overnight” sensation, this performance was a long time coming. Gilroy had scored three tries the week before when Ireland played Fiji in an uncapped international. He had also scored a beauty of a try for Ulster against Munster the previous season in the

Shining star Craig Gilroy, opposite, left, with Ulster Rugby teammates Chris Henry and Andrew Trimble, this page, far left and left.

sport

quarter-final of the Heineken Cup, and two years ago, aged just 19, he scored the first try at the newly opened Aviva stadium when turning out for a Leinster/Ulster XV against a Connacht/Munster selection. So Gilroy, now 21, wasn’t unknown, it was just that he had now announced himself on the international stage. And Ireland, who were still licking their wounds after a 60-0 hammering by the New Zealand All Blacks, were very happy to have him. “Declan [Ireland’s head coach Declan Kidney] spoke to me after the game,” says Gilroy. “He congratulated me and told me to keep my feet on the ground. He was very happy with me. This is a big confidence boost, but I can’t get ahead of myself. But it’s good to know I can perform at this level.” Another who took notice was Warren Gatland, coach to the British and Irish Lions, who are due to tour Australia in June and July this year. A Lions cap is seen as the pinnacle of a player’s career, and most players involved in the Six Nations Tournament over the next two months will have one eye on a Lions Test place, even if they never admit as much publicly. “He was outstanding, so he has put himself in contention – some guy has put his hand up and made you sit up and take notice,” Gatland said after the Ireland-Argentina game. Lions coaches traditionally play their cards close to their chest, so this was rare praise for a young player. Gilroy is reluctant to talk himself up, and refuses to speculate on a Lions call-up this summer. “It’s very flattering to hear. It’s not something I spend a lot of time thinking about at all. There are plenty of things I need to think about first, like actually starting for Ulster, and then getting a place with Ireland, and then maybe the Lions down the road. I certainly wouldn’t walk around and promote myself as going 32 |

FEBRUARY/MARCH 2013

All in a day’s work – Craig Gilroy with Andrew Trimble and Chris Henry at Ulster Rugby’s base at New Forge Country Club, near Belfast.

on a Lions tour,” he says. Others were queuing up to praise the freshness and sense of adventure Gilroy brings to the game. “Craig really came out of nowhere for us last season,” says David Humphreys, director of rugby at Ulster and essentially Gilroy’s boss. “He scored a magic try against Cardiff. He brings an X-factor to the game. He is one of those rare players who can change a game.” Other Ireland and Ulster greats – Trevor Ringland, Tyrone Howe and Jeremy Davidson – have joined the chorus of approval. Davidson, a former Lions player, reckons he’s just the sort of wild-card player who could make it onto the tour, while Howe has written about Gilroy’s pace, balance and ability to beat bigger players. On a dark, cold December morning at Ulster Rugby’s base at Newforge Country Club, a Police Service of Northern Ireland sports centre on the outskirts of Belfast, all the praise and the glamour of international and Lions rugby seems

a long way distant. The training pitch is soft and wet and there’s a cold wind whipping down the sidelines. Players and staff check in at a group of portacabins to get their orders for the day. Ulster Rugby (with whom Aer Lingus recently signed a two-year sponsorship deal as official airline) are moving to state-of-the-art facilities at Ravenhill next year but, for now, the Newforge Country Club is home. It’s a Monday and Ulster are off the back of a 9-10 defeat to Northampton in a Heineken Cup pool match. Yet the mood in the camp is upbeat and the slagging that is never far from the surface in a sports squad is much in evidence. Gilroy is to be photographed for Cara with Chris Henry and Andrew Trimble. Trimble, who has 49 caps for Ireland, is generous in allowing Gilroy, with his one cap, to take the limelight. Henry, who has four caps, is equally indulgent of the new boy. There is some ribbing following a story in the Belfast papers that

a three-year deal with Ulster Rugby, Signed and sealed: Gilroy has just signed until 2016. For more rugby news and which will keep the winger at Ravenhill om. y.com, ulsterrugby.com and lionsrugby.c ugb ercr , .com ions nat rbs6 t visi , ates upd

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Si NatioNS 2013 Six fixtureS fi

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Gilr is dati Gilroy dating Mi Miss Northern North Ireland Tiffany Brien. He manages to keep a straight face for the photographer, despite the off-camera humour from the two older players. Away from the cameras, Gilroy is still excited by his debut for Ireland, the try and the whole experience. The emergence of a bunch of young players – Ulster’s Paddy Jackson, Luke Marshall and Darren Cave all played in the Fiji match – seemed to have lifted Irish rugby after the All Blacks defeat. The experience began when Gilroy joined 32 other players at a training camp for the Ireland squad held at Carton House in Maynooth last September in advance of the Guinness series of internationals last November – a session which included those memorable matches against Argentina and Fiji. “When we all came in to the Irish camp … we were really enthusiastic and eager to learn, and the senior guys almost sort of worked off us as well at the same time,” says Gilroy. “They were happy enough to let us learn and they were patient with us, and the questions guys would ask. Gordon D’Arcy would be chatting away, and I’d chat to Tommy [Bowe] and Trimby [Andrew Trimble] anyway. We hadn’t been to that many camps, so we thought it was always like this, but talking to the senior guys, guys like Jonny Sexton said that it 34 |

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(1.30 pm) (4 pm) (3 pm) (2.30 pm) (5 pm) (3 pm) (2.30 pm) (5 pm) (2 pm) (2 pm) (5 pm) (3 pm) (2.30 pm) (5 pm) (8 pm)

was one of the th best be camps he’s been be That first Irish cap against Leeds. He was tackled on – Gilroy scores a his first touch of the ball and had involved in.” try in the Ireland his jaw broken.) Gilroy’s performances for Ireland v Argentina match against Fiji and Argentina saw him And to think he nearly missed last November. compared to former Ireland great all this by taking a year off to go Simon Geoghegan. Both players travelling. “Yeah, I was planning on have that special something that a gap year,” recalls Gilroy, “and then sends a frisson through the crowd Justin Fitzpatrick [former Ireland when they get the ball. It comes as player] sort of brought me with a shock to realise that Gilroy is too him from Bangor rugby club to young to have seen Geoghegan play. Dungannon.” “I’ve heard about him,” laughs Gilroy, who is one of five Gilroy, who was born in 1991 siblings and grew up in Belfast, (Geoghegan’s last game for Ireland had played for a well-nigh was in 1996). “I know enough unbeatable Methodist College COMBAT about him. I keep being schools team before that, ZONE compared to him.” alongside players such as The toughest opponents When he returned from Paddy Jackson and Niall Gilroy has played against are Ugo camp with Ireland – the Annett (both of whom Monye (Harlequins and England), Geoghegan comparisons signed for Ulster) and for Chris Ashton (Northampton and ringing in his ears – Gilroy the Ireland under-20 team. England) and Leinster’s shane found himself on the bench “Justin said, ‘you can Horgan. “He was a handful,” for Ulster. Tommy Bowe (92 have a gap year any time, says Gilroy. caps for Ulster, 51 for Ireland why don’t you just stay and and three for the Lions) and have a crack at rugby?’ Down Andrew Trimble (119 Ulster caps at at Dungannon, I was playing well time of writing) were selected ahead and got a few opportunities, for of him. Many saw it as the new the under-age teams at Ulster and Ulster coach Mark Anscombe’s way Ireland and then the Ulster A of bringing him back down to earth. side, and then eventually I got an Then Bowe was badly injured in opportunity for the seniors.” Ulster’s 9-10 defeat to Northampton His debut for the Ulster in a Heineken Cup pool match on senior side was against Cardiff in December 15. He was ruled out November 2010 and he scored for most of the season, so Gilroy is two tries, the second of which was sure to start in the white of Ulster a brilliant solo effort. Scoring on for the rest of the season. (He still debut seems to be something of a remembers his first appearance in habit. Now that’s something for that jersey, in a pre-season friendly Warren Gatland to note.

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GatherinG the clans

The Irish are inviting friends and family from all over the world to join them in colourful celebrations and festivals for The Gathering. It promises to be one long party. Some of the folk behind the events talk to Ben Webb. Photographs by Steve Ryan.

he clans are gathering. So too are the Fermoy poets, the Mayo McNicholases and a flag-waving tournament of international hurling teams. As are a serious symposium of scientists, conventions of busy businessmen and a hilarity or three of comics. Yes, just about everyone is gathering somewhere in 2013. Even broadcaster George Hook, who is hardly renowned for his displays of unbridled optimism, is a big fan. “Get on with it and gather,” he declares. “It’s going to be great.” Taoiseach Enda Kenny may have launched the party, but The Gathering is much more about people power. And the Irish – who have a well-earned reputation for throwing a very good party indeed – have got right into the spirit. Gatherings are happening all over the country. With an estimated 70 million people claiming Irish ancestry, it’s no surprise that family reunions are one of the most popular types of event. From the Crummeys of Dublin and Conroys of Tipperary to the O’Driscolls of Cork and those McNicholases of Mayo, the Irish are flooding home. It is no secret that the Irish are proud of their roots and genealogist Henry Healy, who tracks down people with Irish ancestry with a group called Ireland XO, says it

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is an immensely satisfying task to find new connections. “Some people might be sceptical and ask why we bother,” he says. “But you see the fruits of your labour when people return to Ireland and you see their emotions – the swelling of the eyes, the tear rolling down the face. We want to keep our diaspora close, to cherish our special affinity with people living abroad who share our cultural identity and heritage.” Family reunions are just one of the event categories. There are plenty more. Just about every hobby or past-time is covered, from poetry readings and walking in the wilderness to art-house film festivals, charity fundraisers and comedy clubs. There is even a convention for classic Celtic redheads in Crosshaven, Co Cork. And if there is a gap, then the onus is on you to fill it. Simply log on to the dedicated website – thegatheringireland.com – and use the Create an Event tool to publicise your own party. It is also easy to find a gathering, as you can search the website by location or date. Not surprisingly, St Patrick’s Day is packed. If you fancy a day out on March 17 you could aim for Kinsale or Ballyhoura, Glenbeigh or Buncrana, Cappoquin or Wexford, and the list goes on. In Dublin, for example, Irishfest is being held on George’s Dock. Formerly known as the Irish

Craft Beer Festival, this is a celebration of great Irish beer, food and music. More than 20,000 visitors are expected. “Our goal is to create a St Patrick’s Day experience where consumers can sample, learn and be entertained by the best of what Ireland has to offer,” says Seamus O’Hara, the festival co-chair and a stalwart of the Carlow Brewing Company. The Gathering is not just about having a good time, though. It also has a more serious objective, to help boost the economy by encouraging business. Niall Gibbons, chief executive of Tourism Ireland, believes a rise in visitor numbers will bring in much-needed revenue – some have bandied about figures as high as €3.7 billion. A wave of American tourists would certainly help and the good news is that new slots for transatlantic flights have gone on stream. Aer Lingus has added one more long-haul plane and, overall, seat numbers will be up 20 per cent in the summer. “We’re getting back to what we’re good at – tourism and agriculture – and that’s why The Gathering is out there,” Gibbons says. “Ireland’s a better value proposition now; it’s easier to get to and it’s good fun.” For more information on The Gathering, thegatheringireland.com

Henry Healy

Ireland reacHIng Out Henry Healy is the determined genealogist who persuaded Barack Obama to visit Moneygall in Co Offaly by revealing the US president had Irish ancestors who lived in the town. “It was just the piecing together of a jig-saw,” he explains modestly. “But to have the opportunity to meet the US president and to shake his hand was a surreal experience.” He now works with Ireland Reaching Out – aka Ireland XO – which builds genealogical connections in reverse. Instead of starting with curious individuals determined to trace their ancestry back to a long lost place, it starts with the local community itself and tracks down the families that once lived there. “It’s about communities reconnecting with their sons and daughters,” says a cheerful Healy. “Our volunteers are willing to do the research in their free time so that local towns and villages can build up a link and connect with the diaspora. The XO can mean hugs and kisses, which emulates our Irish welcome and our ‘Céad Míle Fáilte’!” Healy believes The Gathering is a wonderful opportunity. Yes it’s about connections, but it’s also about celebrating Irishness. “It’s important to showcase everything Irish to our visitors,” he continues. “Communities and parishes should give guided tours of the natural and built heritage in their vicinity and share our national sports of hurling and Gaelic football. Every visit to Ireland will include the local pub, where again communities are encouraged to showcase our music and dancing. We want our ancestral sons and daughters to leave with a sense of belonging.” For more information, visit irelandxo.com or call 091 842 013.

people

Marita HitMiangsong

gatHering of tHe Clans “We are a warm friendly people who hold traditions dear, have a strong sense of identity and a roguish sense of humour,” explains Marita Hitmiangsong, co-founder of the Gathering of the Clans in south Kerry with Joe McGill. “The people of south Kerry know how to enjoy themselves and can help others to do so too.” In which case, this should be a seriously enjoyable party. More than 5,000 visitors are expected to descend on south Kerry for a festival of sport, culture and socialising. There will also be a Battle of the Clans with teams competing in traditional south Kerry sports such as football and four-oar rowing races in Seine boats. Another charming tradition to be revived will be “crossroad dances”. Across the region once again, young and old will meet up during the summer evenings to dance, listen to traditional Irish music and maybe even enjoy a little matchmaking. There is a serious side, too, with a variety of talks, poetry readings, exhibitions and film screenings showcasing the region’s culture. “Each town and village has its own story and these stories provide the basis for the knowledge of who we are as a people,” Hitmiangsong adds. “Our love of music, literature, sport and history provide us with an identity that makes us unique and distinct when we leave these shores.” Kerry’s inaugural Gathering of the Clans runs from March 23 until April 1 at Iveragh, Caherciveen, Co Kerry. For more information, call 086 345 3630.

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Mattie Kenny

the aer lingus international hurling Festival A colourful army of 15,000 fans will pack into Galway’s legendary Pearse Stadium on September 21 for the final of Ireland’s first truly international hurling competition. “Hurling is uniquely Irish, a part of culture that goes back centuries, and a great way to reach the diaspora,” says Mattie Kenny, the organiser, who used to play left corner-forward for the Galway senior team. “The teams will take hurling very seriously and will want to play competitive games, but it’s also about a chance for family and friends to visit the country and enjoy the craic.” The 16 teams – four from North America, four from the UK, two from Europe, one from Asia, one from Australia and one each from the four provinces of Ireland – will be seeded and split into four groups that will play in four regional centres. Each will play a minimum of three games. Like football’s world cup, the locals will support their visitors, creating a real festival atmosphere with plenty of venues holding Irish music nights. And with a junior tournament also being held, it should be a fantastic family occasion. The reach of GAA, which teamed up with Leinster hurling champions Galway and the Galway Hurling Supporters Club to host the event, stretches way beyond the shores of Ireland. “Some of the teams have players that are fifth or sixth generation Irish and it will be great to welcome them to Ireland,” Kenny says. “It will be a great chance for young fans to meet their heroes and collect autographs. But it’s also a serious sporting spectacle in its own right.” The Aer Lingus International Hurling Festival runs September 18-21 at Pearse Stadium, Co Galway. aerlingushurling.com

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’Neill’s is one of Dublin’s most famous and historic pubs. Centuries of Dublin history surround the world-renowned O’Neill’s. Just around the corner from Trinity College, Grafton Street and the Molly Malone Statue, trade has ﬂourished uninterrupted for over 300 years. O’Neill’s is conveniently set in the heart of Dublin. When you pay us a visit you will receive a warm and friendly welcome and you can enjoy its ageless character, numerous alcoves, snugs, nooks and crannies. To make your visit as enjoyable as possible we offer you ... ●

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professor Nicholas farrell

The Wild Geese NeTWork of irish scieNTisTs (WGNis) symposium

Professor Nicholas Farrell founded the WGNIS because he wanted Irish scientists to get the same recognition for their contribution to American life as their peers in business and the arts. A graduate of University College Dublin, who is now a professor of Chemistry at Virginia Commonwealth University (VCU) in America, he wanted to connect the Irish scientific diaspora and highlight their successes. “Science and technology are by their nature collaborative and interdisciplinary,” he says. “The network gives an important platform for communication that will help grow the Irish knowledge-based economy.” The Wild Geese was the name given to the Irish Jacobite army that departed for France under the Treaty of Limerick in 1691. Today, it is Ireland’s workers – including academics and scientists – that emigrate to find work. This year’s symposium, which includes talks, workshops, a youth programme and an awards ceremony, will be a highlight of the year. But encouraging business is also key. “It will be a celebration of science,” Farrell explains. “It will be a unique opportunity to forge new links and develop existing relationships among Irish scientists. Any initiative that brings an innovation to market is vital for job creations and it is important people appreciate the contribution that professional groups like ours make a significant contribution to exports.” The WGNIS runs November 13-15 at the Convention Centre Dublin. For more information, visit wgnisgathering.com

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ohnnie Fox’s Pub situated in the heart of the Dublin Mountains has it all, a living museum of Irish History andTradition where unique pieces from old farm implements to Historical antiquities adorn every wall, nook & cranny. Serving an award winning a la carte menu from 12.30 until late, with live musicians playing traditional Irish music 7 nights a week, our special kind of Irish welcome is not to be missed.

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Zita Shovlin

the McnicholaS clan GatherinG “It is hard for anyone searching for McNicholas ancestry to know exactly which McNicholas family they belong to,” says Zita Shovlin, organiser of the McNicholas clan gathering in Kiltimagh, Co Mayo. “We want to create a bank of information to help McNicholases from around the world to discover their McNicholas connections.” Invites for the first McNicholas Clan gathering have been sent out to family and friends on social media, but Shovlin says: “We are already expecting at least 500 visitors and have found that word of mouth still travels far.” The idea for the clan gathering was inspired by the prominence of the McNicholas name in Mayo, where the McNicholas name can be traced back to the 1500s. A few famous names have already cropped up during research. The mother of actress Imelda Staunton was a McNicholas from Bohola, while Bruce Springsteen’s grandmother was also a McNicholas. He even mentioned the name in his song “American Land”. “With Bruce playing in Ireland next year, we hope he’ll drop by!” Shovlin says. At the Gathering, there will be a talk and workshop on how to research your ancestry. It will also be a chance to bring together old photographs, testimonies, documents and oral histories. But it’s not all about family trees. “The social side is extremely important,” Shovlin says. “It is a chance for the many local McNicholases to reunite with family and friends. The highlight will be the clan banquet where we will reveal the clan chieftain!” The McNicholas Clan Gathering is on September 14-21 at Aiden Street, Kiltimagh, Co Mayo. 094 938 1494.

people

Margo Berry

The FerMoy InTernaTIonal poeTry FesTIval “It is a most scenic and friendly town full of culture, arts and crafts,” says Margo Berry, the organiser of this year’s Fermoy International Poetry Festival. “We hope to attract a large number of visitors and promote the town as the artistic capital of north Cork.” With 3,000 Facebook friends in 72 countries, the event is already attracting a lot of interest and Berry is expecting more than 200 poets, poetry fans and their families. “There are too many people of Irish origin who express a wish to return to, or visit Ireland for the first time who never do. Here is their opportunity,” she says. “The social side is of paramount importance, but so is the poetry, as we have poets from 11 countries who will be reading their work.” The line-up includes Tsead Bruinja and Jan Glas (Holland), Kim Moore (England) and Bradley Strahan (US). Berry, who became interested in poetry through her husband, Gene Barry, a published poet, will be reading her own poems at the popular “open mic” sessions. A civic reception is planned at the town hall, followed by a meal and a series of poetry readings in the town’s Grand Hotel. There will also be book launches, poetry translation workshops and poetry bus rides into the nearby Galtee Mountains. “As storytellers the Irish are natural poets and this is evident in the quantity of high quality poets Ireland continues to produce,” says Berry. The Fermoy International Poetry Festival runs from August 1-4. Email fermoypoetryfestival@gmail.com.

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derry-londonderry

The Peace Bridge over the river Foyle connects Ebrington Square to the Cityside.

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NorthErN

ExposurE If youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve never visited Derry-Londonderry, now is the time as a year-long culture fest kicks off with events as diverse as Primal Scream, the Turner Prize and a graffitti jam. Bridget Hourican enjoys the diversity of the City of Culture 2013 programme. Photographs by Peter Dybowski and David Sciora.

FEBRUARY/MARCH 2013

| 49

derry-londonderry

t doesn’t get more symbolic than this. Ebrington Square overlooks the banks of the Foyle in the traditionally unionist Waterside. For 30 years this was a British army parade ground, with barracks menacing behind barbed wire. Today it’s where the new Peace Bridge connects the Waterside to the traditionally nationalist Cityside. The former parade ground has been turned into a huge outdoor concert arena, where Primal Scream are playing in March; and at the end of this year the renovated barracks will host the Turner Prize – the first time the prize has been held outside England. “So hope for a great sea-change/ On the far side of revenge/ Believe that a farther shore/ Is reachable from here”, wrote former Derry schoolboy Seamus Heaney, in the apt lines quoted by DerryLondonderry City of Culture 2013 in the bid to be the first UK City of Culture. Derry-Londonderry saw off 14

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Top, graffiti on the streets of the city, and, above, Ebrington Square which hosts the Turner Prize later this year.

cities to win the bid, and it is not thinking small. Primal Scream and the Turner Prize are just two of the stand-out events in a massive programme spanning the entire year. Other highlights include the Fleadh Cheoil, the Royal Ballet, the London Symphony Orchestra performing a new cantata, with libretto by poet Paul Muldoon, a punk musical about the Undertones, and the world premiere of a new Sam Shepard play staged by Stephen

Rea’s Field Day Company, which regrouped for City of Culture. Locals and visitors to this small city of just over 100,000 people will enjoy a 2013 cultural programme to rival any of the world’s great cities. However the ambition goes deeper than providing entertainment and upping visitor figures. “Our models are Glasgow and Liverpool,” says Shona McCarthy, CEO of the City of Culture company, “as European Cities of Culture, they weren’t

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just about putting on lovely arts programmes, they were about the regeneration of the city”. The aim is to get a million additional visitors to the city but, even more important, says McCarthy, is for “people here to gain a sense of pride in their own place and sense of belief in themselves, and for outsiders to see us differently – as a modern city with a place in the world and a different story to tell.” I’ve visited Derry twice previously and have always been impressed. The 400-year-old walled city includes the beautiful 17thcentury St Columb’s Cathedral, and overlooks the Foyle, a wide, magnificent river. Just outside the Walls is some of the world’s most famous graffiti: “You are now entering Free Derry” heralds the entrance to the Bogside, and commemorates the early 1970s period when this was a no-go area for the RUC and British army.

This juxtaposition of 17th-century wealth and establishment, with 20th-century protest and radicalism is striking. Derry also has a remarkable cultural heritage. The Undertones were formed here in 1975 and three years later “Teenage Kicks” became a seminal song of New Wave punk. In 1980 the playwright Brian Friel and the actor Stephen Rea established Field Day Theatre Company, which was soon joined by the poets Seamus Heaney, Seamus Deane, and Tom Paulin, who developed a publishing arm. In 1978 Declan McGonagle, now director of the National College of Art and Design in Dublin, opened the remarkable Orchard Gallery, which showcased major Irish artists such as Willie Doherty, as well as international artists, including the installation of Antony Gormley sculptures on the city walls. Declan Long, lecturer in the National College of Art and

Above, playwright Clare Dwyer Hogg whose first play kicked off events. Opposite page, far right, cannons on the city Walls. Right, Maoliosa Boyle, manager of The Void.

t ry Taxis Tours, whose native guides visi For insider knowledge on the city, try Der further gs (+44 28 7126 0247, derrytaxis.ie). For local murals, sights and historic buildin discovernorthernireland.com or contact information on Northern Ireland go to St, Dublin 2 on Callsave 1850 230 230. the Tourism Information Centre, Suffolk 52 |

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Design in Dublin and one of the Turner 2013 judges, points out that “having the Turner Prize in Derry makes sense, given the drive and innovation in visual arts that’s been seen there over many years – the ambition on the part of artists and curators has often led to direct links with the Turner. In the 1980s McGonagle was shortlisted for the prize, one of the few curators to have ever made the shortlist, and Willie Doherty has been shortlisted twice.” Today Maoliosa Boyle is manager of the Void, which was named one of the UK’s top ten contemporary art galleries by the Guardian. She’s

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Turner Prize October 23, 2013 – January 5, 2014, ebrington square For the first time, the Turner Prize, one of the world’s most important prizes for contemporary art, leaves England. The four short-listed artists will be exhibited in Ebrington Square from October to January, and the winner announced in December. tate.org.uk

2 from Derry, and the Orchard “was a huge part of my upbringing and very much informed me in terms of my career choice”. Launching the Void in 2005, it was natural to think cosmopolitan. When Simon Starling won the Turner Prize in 2005, the only place he was exhibiting in the whole of the UK was the Void. Today the connection with the Turner continues. For City of Culture, as well as running six major exhibitions in the Void – including the South African artist Candice Breitz – Boyle is also curating two of the Turner artists in the renovated barracks in Ebrington Square. Clare Dwyer Hogg is a young playwright whose first play, Farewell, kicked off the City of Culture when it was performed by the revived Field Day in December 2012. She’s a Cambridge-educated,

London-based journalist on the staff of The Independent, but when it came to writing drama she drew on the Northern Ireland she grew up in. Farewell was “informed, though not based on” the story of Denis Donaldson [the IRA informer shot dead in Donegal in 2006]. She wrote it on maternity leave and “honestly I was just writing for myself and not thinking who would read it”, but she had Stephen Rea in her mind as the ideal actor, so she sent it to him on spec. He took it on for Field Day and commissioned another play, to be performed in May. It’s a fairytale story for a fledgling playwright, and also a story which, like Boyle’s, says a lot about the cultural heritage of Northern Ireland. Young artists have the legacy of the recent past to inform their work; they also have established networks to draw on.

Fleadh CheOil na hÉireann august 11-18, Cultúrlann Úi Chanáin For the first time since 1951, the world’s biggest festival of Irish culture goes north of the border. For a week in August 300,000 visitors are expected to descend on the city for sessions, céilí, sean-nós, bands, as well as drama and art exhibits. fleadhcheoil.ie

POliTiCal MOTher: derrylOndOnderry unCuT March 8-9, ebrington square Former rock drummer Hofesh Shechter brings his world-famous dance company to DerryLondonderry for a gritty, emotional performance, featuring a live band of

more than 30 musicians, including young musicians from the city. Specially commissioned by Culture Company 2013 and the London International Festival of Theatre (LIFT). cityofculture2013.com

Field day: saM shePard november, Guildhall The legendary Field Day company, founded by Brian Friel and Stephen Rea in 1980, is back for the first time since 1995. Here, it has two newly commissioned plays by young Northern Irish playwrights, and in November will premiere a new play by the great American playwright Sam Shepard. cityofculture2013.com

The COnquesT OF haPPiness May 1-31 An international cast of artists explore the tantalising possibility of happiness in anunhappy world through music, dance and drama. Inspired by Bertrand Russell’s essay on happiness, this is a multiartform, large-scale, open-air event led by internationally acclaimed director Haris Pašovi. cityofculture2013.com

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Walls 400! and City of london festival By sheer coincidence City of Culture 2013 coincides with the 400th anniversary of the Walls. In 1613, two representatives from the city of London, Alderman George Smithes and Merchant Taylor Mathias Springham, along with ten local officers, “viewed and trode out the ground at the Derry for the fortification there”. That initiative granted the city the largest ancient monument in Northern Ireland. The Walls are associated with the 1689 Siege of Derry and the city’s contested history. Walls 400! explores this history and celebrates the wallss as a present-day national heritage. Other associated events include a Walls marathon (June 2), and the critically acclaimed lumiere (November 28 – December 1), a festival of light produced by Artichoke and previously staged in Durham. The historic links between London and DerryLondonderry go back to 1613; they are the only UK cities with Guildhalls. The two cities celebrate their connection with th a new cantata, At Sixes and Sevens, commissioned from two o of the world’s leading creators in words and music: Pulitzerprizewinning Northern Irish poet Paul Muldoon and composer Mark-Anthony Turnage. At Sixes and Sevens is directed by Barry Douglas and Ian Ritchie and performed by Camerata Ireland, the London Symphony Orchestra, soloists, choirs and specially-formed community ensembles. The world premiere is on July 3, 2013, simultaneously in the two guildhalls of London and Derry-Londonderry, linked live. The Brodsky Quartet and the Fidelio Trio will also perform specially commissioned work in both cities on separate dates in June and July.

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Top, St Augustine’s; above, Shona McCarthy, CEO of the Culture Company 2013; below, view from the historic Walls.

Although DerryAl Lond Londonderry is used to punching above its weight culturally, there was until th recently something re disparate about di the city’s cultural th output. When I’d ou visit previously, vi I had a sense of a potentially remarkable city that was not quite coalescing. I’d qu mention to locals how handsome I found their city and they’d look bemused. As a child, Dwyer Hogg lived about an hour’s drive away in Antrim but says her family never visited because Derry-Londonderry

wasn’t marketed as a cultural hotspot. The Foyle seemed on the edge rather than at the heart of the city. The Peace Bridge, together with the renovated Ebrington Square and pedestrianised riverbank, has already made a profound difference. McCarthy agrees: “I knew the bridge would be lovely, but it has doubled the size of the city centre and brought the river into focal point.” This sense of unifying and connecting is at the heart of the City of Culture. McCarthy believes that what swung the bid was “the absolutely collective voice. The city brought together all the diverse strategies for economic, social and creative development into a single plan, called in fact ‘The One’ plan. When it came to bidding, we were harnessing the power of a whole city coming behind something and having real conviction about it.” Derry-Londonderry City of Culture seems a bit like an iceberg – the huge supporting mass is under the surface. The tip – the bit that will bring visitors pouring in – consists of the headline events, the Royal Ballet, Fleadh Cheoil, Hofesh Shechter’s dance Political Mother and the world premiere of The Conquest of Happiness, an open-air performance inspired by Bertrand Russell’s essay on happiness and led by Bosnian director Haris Pašović.

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Supporting these flagship shows are hundreds and hundreds (I haven’t counted) of smaller events. Ask people what they’re looking forward to and you uncover new layers in the programme: Dwyer Hogg is excited by author Jennifer Johnston’s Three Monologues and by theatre company 11:18’s performance on the Belfast-Derry train. Long is looking forward to the Foyle Film Festival, to a music/poetry work, At Sixes and Sevens, created by poet Paul Muldoon and composer Mark-Anthony Turnage, and to the Other Voices Festival – “an intimate series of concerts usually staged in a church in Dingle, but moving this year, as they are saying, ‘From 56 |

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Clockwise from left, sunlight on city streets; Sara Greavu – artist and co-ordinator at the Centre for Contemporary Art; Ian Orr – head chef at Brown’s Restaurant.

SPlUrGe If you’ve made it this far and the purse can stretch and you can get a booking, definitely check out Brown’s (1 Bond’s Hill, 028 7134 5180; browns restaurant.com), recognised for two decades as one decade of Northern Ireland’s best restaurants. Ian Orr, left, formerly of Rathmullan House in Donegal, recently took over the kitchen and has kept up the tradition of fresh combinations of luxurious local produce. On the Wa Waterside on Lough Foyle, prices from £6.50 for starters and £13 for mains, which is good for the quality. MId-ranGe In a small courtyard in the heart of the historic city, Café del Mondo (The Craft

Village, 028 7136 6877; cafedelmondo.org) has an intimate setting and serves simple food, local and organic where possible. Open from breakfast through to 11pm, they change the menu frequently to keep it fresh. Not everything works and although informal and bistro-style it’s not the cheapest place in the city, but has good coffee, vegetarian options, great cakes, and nice ambience. the Custom House (Queen’s Quay, 028 7137 3366; customhouserestaurant. com) is a three-storey bar and restaurant in a listed building. The dining room is on the first floor with a view of the Foyle. Serves soup, sandwiches, salads and pasta for lunch, and steaks, chicken, fish for dinner. Good solid fare, well priced. Next door is the exchange, with similar fare but the atmosphere is a little more hectic.

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Kerry to Derry’”. And then there are the local events aimed not at tourists but at long-term cultural regeneration. “Portrait of a City” will work with community groups, schools, libraries and archives to create a digital online resource of photographs, film and oral history documenting the story of DerryLondonderry. “The Music Promise” is a year-long programme of inspirational learning for children, and Waterside Youth Forum will present the city’s first International World Peace Summit, encouraging

FEBRUARY/MARCH 2013

dialogue among young people from conflict areas in Europe. The intention, as in Glasgow and Liverpool, is for City of Culture to plant seeds that will flourish over the next years, and even decades. But Derry-Londonderry is more ambitious still: City of Culture is intended as nothing less than a catalyst to draw a hitherto divided city together. Ideally, over time, all those living here, who describe themselves as British and Irish and neither, and Catholic and Protestant and neither, and nationalist and unionist and neither, will take shared pride in, and ownership of, their city (whatever they choose to call it). That’s why the Executive of Northern Ireland gave £12.6 million to City of Culture, “the biggest single investment for cultural programming ever made on these islands”, according to McCarthy. This was a vote of promise in the future and in the power of the arts. Do visit. As long as you’re in possession of at least one of the five senses, you will find something you like.

Although hotels are building extensions faster than you can book, Derry-Londonderry is not set up to accommodate a million visitors so book as early as you can. Also, if you have wheels, check out Donegal, Limavady, Strabane and the hinterland. The city council is also initiating a scheme for people to hire out rooms in their houses. Keep an eye on derryvisitor.com. SPlUrGe A little outside the city but convenient for the airport, the everglades Prehen Road, 028 7132 1066; hastingshotels.com) is a fourstar hotel with the comfort and excellent service of all the Hastings’ hotels. Good-sized beds and decent food. MId-ranGe It is just a couple of miles south of the city, but at Beech Hill Country House Hotel (32 Ardmore Road, 028 7134 9279; beech-hill.com) you feel like you’re in the country. This small hotel of less than 20 rooms is set in 42 acres of woodland. The 1729 house has kept many of its original features. It also has a decent restaurant, The Ardmore. BUdGet Very central, just outside the Walls, Joan and Peter Pyne’s B&B, Merchant’s House (16 Queen Street, 028 7126 9691), has eight rooms in a Victorian house. Clean, comfortable, good breakfast, but a lot of stairs and no lift because it’s a listed building. They run a more budget B&B, The Saddlers House, nearby in Great James Street.

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Perfect peace at Marcelleta Menorca. 60 | cove inFEBRUARY/MARCH 2013

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Whether youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re looking for culture, shopping, sandy beaches, nightlife or wildlife, between them, the Balearic islands of Mallorca and Menorca have got it all. Roger Norum visits two very different holiday spots.

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The Balearics

aving spent my share of summers on Sicily, Corsica and Sardinia, I’d long wondered why I had never quite made it over to the Balearic islands, those specks of white sand off Spain’s eastern coast. After all, they are closer, more affordable and more welcoming to English speakers than many other Mediterranean destinations. Most people I know raved about them. But were they not exotic enough for me? Too close? Too fish-and-chips? This past summer, I decided it was finally time to hang up my hang-ups and head down to their warm waters. In the old town of Palma, Mallorca’s capital, I settled into the Dalt Murada (+34 971 425 300; 62 |

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daltmurada.com), a splendid family-run mansion, done up with th antique furnishings and d which has a garden for breakfasts of fresh fruitt and strong coffee. From om here, I explored different ent parts of the city, a lively ly commercial hub that has a population of just st under half a million, with shopping areas, buzzy cafés, refurbished old buildings and fountained ed gardens, all enclosed by mazy lanes and ancient city walls. The city’s massive Gothic cathedral, which peers over the harbour from a hilltop but is most spectacular when viewed from the waterside esplanade below, took some 500 years to complete.

Top, the Gothic cathedral in Palma at sunset. Above, Roger Norum discovers island life.

This drawn-out process allowed for some gorgeous allow adornments, such as the ador southern door’s sculpted sout Flemish-style ecclesiastical Flem figurines, sat at a Last figur Supper. Inside the turreted Sup Palau de l’Almudaina Pala palace opposite, Moorish pala governors once held gove court and now a series of cour medieval corridors and me austere rooms are home to au a handsome collection of Flemish tapestries. Palma, Flem it turns out, ab abounds in palaces – the nearby Renaissance-style Palau March, for example, where arcaded galleries and imperious Italianate bulk take up an entire block (and contain two Henry Moores and a torso by Rodin). Of the four largest Balearic

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islands, Mallorca, along with its quality that is beyond anything Above, a hiker’s asked Alejandro, an islander friend, paradise – the what it was. “The Mediterranean sister island Menorca, is probably the you’ll have tasted elsewhere. The Tramuntana gives you blue skies and warm best known to northern Europeans. typical food of the paieses (peasants) mountain range While cosmopolitan Ibiza is famous waters – olives and seafood, is rough and rich, with much-beloved in Mallorca offers for its hedonistic dance parties, specialities including arroz brut (a breathtaking mountains and beaches,” he and olde-worlde Formentera is winter dish of rice and pork), tumbet views. explained. On Mallorca, “there are popular with paparazzi-averse celebs, the same elements but the intensity (roasted aubergine, potatoes, garlic Mallorca and Menorca are ideal is just something more.” and tomato), longanizas and sobrasadas spots both for families looking There’s intensity in the food, too. (spicy sausages), and my favourite, to kick back and bronze, as While Mallorcan cuisine may not trampó, a large summery salad packed FIESTAS well as couples with a love have the sophistication of, say, with tuna and thinly cut tomatoes, Both islands know how to for the great outdoors. Galician or Basque food, the onions and green peppers. This party. On Mallorca, the Festival Mallorca has the third quality and freshness of island potpourri salad might sound run-ofinternacional de Jazz de sa busiest airport in Spain ingredients lend an intangible the-mill, but Mallorca’s year-round pobla (mid-August), offers some of and a buzzing cultural the best modern and classic acts, and life, while Menorca on Menorca, visit the Fiesta of san has quiet olive groves eaTiNG aNd sleepiNG iN Mallorca ... Juan (June 23–24), where horses and hidden coves. Both com) is an idyllic getaway in the form of a islands boast large beach Located in the heart are ridden through the restored stone finca, offering twelve smart of Palma’s Old Quarter, resorts in pockets along streets of Ciutadella. the boutique property can and unfussy guest rooms; doubles from €130. the coast, as well as quiet, In the village of Inca, meanwhile, you can dine cera (Calle de San Francisco secluded hideaways. out at the excellent Joan Marc restaurant 8, +34 971 715 012; cancerahotel. West of Palma, towards the (Plaça del Blanquer 10, +34 971 500 804; com) offers a dozen classically furnished beer-guzzling resort of Magaluf, joanmarcrestaurant.com), which does chic rooms and suites, along with a restaurant and skyscrapers tower over the flat but affordable takes on classic native dishes. restorative spa; doubles from €165. Sheltered shore, stretching along what is one Almost all ingredients and many of the wines by green mountains on Mallorca’s peaceful of the island’s longest and most are locally sourced and full dinners with north-west coast at Deià is the luxury la impressive beaches, the Platja de wine shouldn’t come in at over €30. An hour residencia (Carrer Son Canals, s/n +34 971 Palma. Though many areas in due east in Arta is la calatrava (Calle Ses 639 011; hotel-laresidencia.com), consisting the Mediterranean have beaches Roques 13, +34 971 836 663; lacalatrava.com), of twin manor houses tucked in among the and villas, something about these a bohemian-styled patio restaurant set in an lush olive and citrus groves at the foothills of Spanish islands makes them feel a expansive townhouse in the centre of town. the Serra Tramuntana; doubles from €290. place apart. One afternoon at the They serve large portions of local dishes, with Meanwhile, located just northeast of Palma, Ca’n Joan de S’Aigo, a renowned beef and veal making particularly lip-smacking Finca hotel es castell (Disseminat Binibonaalley coffee shop that’s been around appearances. Calle Caimari, +34 971 875 154; fincaescastell. for centuries (try its freshly baked ensaimadas, or spiral pastry buns), I 64 |

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The hillside village of Valldemosa, far Va left, and, left, the left stalactite caves at stala Coves del Drac, Co Porto Christo, are Port well worth a day trip.

5 mallorcan musts ...

sunlight and fresh sea air give the vegetables a unique, succulent taste. The ancient Greeks called the Balearic islands Gymnesiae (“naked” in Greek) because its inhabitants were often found in the nude – no doubt due to the year-round warm weather, sunny skies and open, sandy coast. The Balearics first became known strategically among the Phoenicians and Carthaginians, who made use of them as regular ports of call for trade. Over the years, they passed through the hands of the Romans, Vandals, Pisans, Visigoths, Barbary pirates, French, British, Catalans and, of course, the Spanish, who have maintained sovereignty over them for the past 200 years. It’s a chequered history that has given the island the diversity of cultural traditions it has today. There is plenty of culture away from the capital, too. I made my 66 |

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way north to Valldemosa, a tiny village where narrow streets hide blond stone doorways emblazoned with symbols of Mallorca’s patron saint and protector, Saint Catalina Thomàs. In the settlement’s 13thcentury Carthusian monastery, Polish composer Frederic Chopin found inspiration with French author George Sand in the late 1830s. A host of other creative types also found solace in these parts: English poet Robert Graves, who lived in charming, inland Deià for more than 50 years and is now buried on the hill next to the town church. Deià became something of a foreign artists’ colony, and Graves’ many visitors included novelists Kingsley Amis and Gabriel García Márquez, and actors Alec Guinness and Peter Ustinov, the latter of whom eventually also settled on the island. Graves’s partner in crime, Gertrude Stein, once famously said:

explore a cave coves del Drac are easily the finest of eastern Mallorca’s numerous cave systems, with fantastically shaped stalactites and stalagmites, as well as one of the world’s largest subterranean lakes. Though taking photos is prohibited, the tour of the caves (cuevasdeldrach.com) is well worth it – arrive by boat via the day trip from Callas de Mallorca to Porto Cristo. hike about Take a day’s excursion out to the cabrera (“Goat Island”), the largest islet of an 18-island rocky archipelago a dozen miles off Mallorca’s southern coast. Despite its seriously hostile terrain, the national park here is a great place to explore. The waters around the island are also excellent for diving thanks to a handful of great underwater archaeological sites. beach it cala Gat is a narrow cove beach with a popular bar perched against the steep, wooded coastline of the eastern island town of cala rajada.

Should things get too crowded, make for the bony headlands and lighthouse of Cap de Capdepera, Mallorca’s most easterly point, where you’ll find spectacular Med views and nary a soul in sight. shop til you Drop Palma has several excellent specialist food shops. Among them, colmado santo Domingo (Calle de Sant Domingo 1; colmadosantodomingo) is a cave-like, oldfashioned spot awash in hanging sausages and local fruit and veg. Alternatively, head to hip Santa Catalina to visit colmado manresa (Calle de la Fábrica 19), which specialises in island delicacies such as premium sobrasada, salted cod and rice. explore the past Founded some 50 years ago by American painter and archaeologist William Waldren in an old mill, the Deià archaeological museum (+34 971 639 001) has been converted into an excellent, cavernlike space displaying a well-curated collection of local artefacts.

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Clockwise from top left, the pretty fisherman’s village of Binibèquer, Menorca; guitarist Veronica Losada in Palma; beach bliss at Es Calò Blanc; Cove d’en Xoroi in Menorca, the best place to watch the sunset.

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“If you like Paradise, Mallorca is Paradise”. Sitting with my feet in the sand of the Cala Deià cove beach on Mallorca’s northern coast, a light breeze in my face and the sun up above, I found it hard to disagree with her. But there is somewhere even more remote and hidden than Mallorca’s rural settlements: Menorca. From Mallorca’s coastal harbour of Alcudia – once a famed stronghold for smuggling – I hopped on a yellow catamaran for the island’s smaller, more laconic sibling. “You’re on time!” Kiko called out to me, tapping on his watch as he eyed me parking my scooter in the driveway. Not the first thing I expected to hear from a cheesemaker on a diminutive Spanish island – someone I’d imagine to have all the time in the world. But Kiko is a busy man – uddering, culturing, coagulating, draining, scalding, mould-ripening – to say

ens ch Menorca is well known, are sold in doz Abarcas, the basic leather shoes for whi 14, S’Avarca de Menorca in Mahón: Angel of colours in shops across the island (try , which se days is the local brand Pretty Ballerinas +34 971 366 341). Even more popular the ). Industrial, +34 971 373 838; mascaro.com has a factory shop in Ferreries (Polígono nothing of eating. While it’s a haven for cheese lovers – the sweet-and-salty Queso de Mahon is the island’s most famous export – Menorca has plenty

Above, boats in Ciutadella harbour, Menorca.

5 MENORCAN MUSTS ...

GO SCUbA diviNG Menorca’s entire north coast is a protected nature reserve, off limits to everyone but a few local fishermen and divers, making it the best part of the country for underwater exploration. diving Center Fornells (+34 971 376 4 31; divingfornells.com) runs several dives daily (from €60 with full equipment rental). PADI open water diving courses cost €450 in high season. RENT A SCOOTER Riding a scooter is by far the best way to make it around the island. Parking is a breeze and you can get down narrow roads that would be harrowing in a car. Anthony’s bikes (+34 971 377 7 56; anthonysbikes.com) rents out scooters from €35 per day, including 125cc Hondas

for which you don’t need a motorcycle licence; bicycles are also available. EAT lOCAl ChEESE White, semi-fat and rich in texture and flavour, Menorcan cheese, or queso Mahon, is made by adding a smidgen of ewe’s milk to cow’s milk. It comes in a range of maturities: añejo (very mature), curado (mature), semi-curado (semi-mature) or tierno (young). There are several farms you can visit and learn about cheesemaking, including the Museo del Queso hort de Sant Patrici in Ferreries (+34 971 373 702; santpatrici.com). TASTE MENORCAN GiN Gin has been produced on Menorca since the 18th century. The Xoriguer gin distillery, which is where it all began, offers free tours daily (except

Sunday) that let you sample various gins and other spirits such as the, aniseed calent, or the liquorice-flavoured quorice-flavoured palo. palo A litre of Xoriguer gin here costs around ound €12. viSiT SiT MAó’S hARbOUR Yellow Catamarans (+34 639 676 351, yellowcatamarans. atamarans. com) runs ns hour-long tours off the Port de Maó roughly once every ery hour. The catamarans tamarans take in the entire harbour area, and below deck are glass bottoms ttoms for underwater water viewing when the e sea is clear. Boats depart from the dock near the foot of the Costa sta de Ses Voltes. es.

else. As with its westerly big sister (Menorca was termed minor by the Romans – in contrast to its more major neighbour), here you’ll find pale blue skies, deep blue seas, and red-hot sun. But luckily Menorca has managed to avoid most high-rise hotel development, meaning that its pint-sized port villages retain plenty of original character. The island has some excellent rural hotels, both inland and coastal, and – something that often surprises cultur culture buffs – a series of dramatic prehisto prehistoric ruins known as talayots. From my base at the Mor Morvedra Nou,, a 17th-century fa farmhouse re-imagined as a stunning boutique hotel hotel, I rode my scooter a few kilometres south to Macarella, an idyllic cove on the southwest coast with ve very fine, white sand and calm turquoise water sh sheltered by pine and oak hills. Around a sand-duned corn corner, I discovered an even less populated spot, Ma Macarelleta cove,, which to my surprise was extremely popu popular with nudists (“gymnast (“gymnasts”, perhaps, to the Greeks?). Wh While Mallorca is large en enough to have a rush hou hour (in as much as laid-back island FEBRUARY/MARCH 2013

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The Balearics

GeTTiNG arOUND

ILLuSTrATIon By ChrIS JuDge

The best times to travel to the Balearics to avoid the crowds are late spring (April to June) and late summer (August to midSeptember). Ferries run between the two islands several times daily and cost roughly €50 each way for foot passengers. Ports of call are Palma and Alcudia (on Mallorca) and Mao and Ciutadella (on Menorca). For specific schedules and pricing, contact any of the three ferry companies at balearia.com, iscomar. com or trasmediterranea.es.

eaTiNG aND sleePiNG iN MeNOrca ... Just outside Maò – and right on the water – is the funky, personable carlos iii artiem (Calle de Carlos III, +34 971 363 100; reycarlosiii.com); doubles from €75. In the south is Sant Lluís is the Biniarroca hotel (Camí Vell 57, +34 971 150 059; biniarroca.com), a lavishly renovated old finca with an outside pool and a first-rate restaurant; doubles from €170. In the west is Morvedrà Nou (Camí de Sant Joan de Misa, +34 971 359 521; morvedranou.es), a converted stone farmhouse with a pool; doubles from €215. In the midlands, the affordable Fonda s’engolidor (Carrer Major 3; +34 971 370 193; sengolidor.com) has five cosy guest rooms – and a smashing restaurant – set in a cheerfully restored 18th-century house; doubles €35. Also try the paella at Bar sa Mesquida (Calle d’en Fonso 2 in Sa Mesquida; +34 971 188 354), a great spot for evening drinks, and dinner for two should rarely exceed €70.

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communities can), Menorca offers many more places where you won’t find so much as a bicycle. It also has more beaches than Mallorca and Ibiza combined – 120 at last count – most of which remain undeveloped. loped. In fact, the entire 700-square-kilometre island is a UNESCO biosphere reserve, a designation issued in 1993 for the rich flora and fauna across its wetlands, gorges, forests and salt marshes. I drove one evening along a solitary road out to Cap Favàritx, a lone cape located within the island’s sprawling Albufera National Park, one of the centres of the biosphere. Set above craggy planks of black slate cliffs and surrounded by a dramatic barren, lunar landscape, the handsome, striped Cap de Favàritx lighthouse was being lashed by strong Tramuntana winds and

The jumbled streets of Menorca’s capital, Maò.

foaming waves that regularly flood the esplanade. If Mother Nature was anywhere, she was here. On my last morning, I walked through the jumbled streets of the island capital of Maò, its port once of serious military and commercial value. Gin was produced here as early as the 18th century, when the British merchant marine consumed mass quantities; today the dangerously refreshing pomada, gin with lemonade and ice, is effectively a state drink. At the lookout point towards Bloody Island – named after its English military hospital, treating patients of yellow fever, cholera and the plague – I stopped to speak to an elderly man wearing a beret who was staring out to a cruise ship. I told him I liked his hat, and asked if I could take a photo. “Yes, you can. But can you do it quickly? I have somewhere I have to be.” He was gracious, and we talked about life. I thanked him. As he turned to leave, I asked, “Where do you have to be?” wondering what could be so urgent for a man who’d spent all of his 88 years in a single, coastal Mediterranean town. “La isla,” he responded, simply. The island. aer lingus flies from Dublin to Palma de Mallorca, Tue, Sat, Sun, from Cork, Wed and Sat, and from Belfast, Tue and Sat.

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NEW YORK EATS

Pickling, smoking, foraging and fermenting are the culinary buzzwords for foodies in the Big Apple in 2013. As New York Restaurant Week plates up, Lizzie Gore-Grimes gets a taste of whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s to come. Photographs by Steve Ryan.

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Irish chef Seamus Mullen of Tertulia, a Spanish-style gastro pub, “where Manhattan is eating right now”.

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new york for foodies

here’s always a good reason to visit New York; always something exciting going on, setting the world alight. And nowhere is this truer than in the food world. There can be no doubt that where New Yorkers lead the rest of us will follow. So what have they got up their culinary sleeve for us this year? Last year it was all about reinventing comfort food and reining things in, in line with diners’ straitened purse strings. But now, it’s loosening up again and there’s a fresher, global feeling to dining in the city. Really exciting ethnic restaurants are springing up all over the place, stashed away in odd-ball locations, spawning a new form of foodie treasure hunt. While in the finer dining establishments, the spotlight is on farm-to-table ingredients, with vegetables, in-house fermentation and infused vinegars all the rage, in other new places the chef’s table is no longer an addition to the restaurant kitchen – but is the restaurant. And, most striking of all, the really hot-right-now places have left the island. Move over Manhattan – this is Brooklyn’s moment. “Small, cosy and rustic – that’s 74 |

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what’s hot in New York rk at the moment,” says seasoned New York restaurateur Jean-Marc Houmard, founder of Indochine, Acme and more than a few other super-fashionable NYC eateries. “The places that are leading the pack at the moment are the ones that are championing farm-totable produce in an unfussy fussy setting. We’re also seeing a resurgence of hole-in-the wall, cool and quirky eateries springing up in previously unfashionable neighbourhoods, such as the Lower East Side, Brooklyn and Williamsburg. “On menus, flavours that might have been reserved for niche ethnic dining 15 years ago are now becoming familiar finds, particularly Asian flavourings such as togarashi and yukukoshi – people are no longer hesitating to try unfamiliar things.” Houmard himself made a brave move early last year, re-launching Acme Bar & Grill in the East Village as Acme (9 Great Jones Street, +1 212 203 2121; acmenyc.com) – with a completely new culinary identity created by Danish chef Mads

Clockwise from top, fast-paced New York; human statue in Times Square; foraged foods figure large at Acme, the Downtown bastion of Nordic eating; foodie writer Lizzie GoreGrimes.

Tourist hotspot Times Square.

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new york for foodies

Far left, restaurateur JeanMarc Houmard’s re-branded Acme in the East Village. Left, and below, Gavin kaysen, head chef at Café Boulud, says New York Restaurant Week “allows us to showcase what we do to a much wider audience …”

nyC restaurant week 2013

Refslund, co-founder of Noma in Copenhagen. Where Acme Bar & Grill was popular for its Southern cuisine of collard greens and fried everything, now Acme is the buzzing new Downtown bastion of Nordic fare. Here Refslund showcases the delicate, reductive art of forager victuals that Noma became worldfamous for, although critics describe it as a “pared-down version of his collaborator’s high locavore style”. There is no burger at this brasserie. In its place you’ll find plenty of honest offerings such as pearl barley, chestnuts, celery root, house-cured salmon, Long Island oysters and black sea bass – not to mention pickled fiddlehead ferns and hay-smoked Jerusalem artichokes among other earthy esoterica. Who knew tubers could be so sexy? As in many avant-garde kitchens in the city at the moment, the chefs at Acme have ditched the fryer and done away with heavyhanded seasoning in favour of a menu that places vegetables in the

spotlight and makes the most of pickling, smoking, foraging and fermenting – undoubtedly the culinary buzzwords for 2013. Small, rustic and cosy is also having a moment at an unassuming looking eatery in NoLita. This small restaurant might not look like much from the outside, with its old-school lace curtains and scripted sign on the windows, spelling out Torrisi Italian Specialties (250 Mulberry Street, +1 212 965 0955; torrisinyc.com), but this teeny Italian dining room offers a unique eating experience in the city right now. Opened by Rich Torrisi and Mario Carbone, the charming 20-seater restaurant in Little Italy has a seven-course set menu ($65 a head). To read it sings of soulful Italian-American cooking. Antipasti of warm mozzarella, DaVero olive oil; Brighton beets; charred octopus, shishito and tomato; Italian sausage paté, peppers and onions followed by pasta fagioli in smoked ham broth and then a choice of two entrees: monkfish dogana or

What started out as a one-off lunch promotion became a bi-annual festival of food and celebration of NYC restaurants. Now in its 21st year, Restaurant Week offers special prix-fixe menus in a selection of the city’s leading restaurants. Two-course lunches are offered at just $24.07 (as a play on 24/7, the city that never sleeps) and dinner prices are fixed at $35 for three courses. Each year the list of 300 or so restaurants taking part is tweaked, with a few new additions and a few drop-outs. But there are familiar favourites that participate each year, some of which have been there from the very beginning in 1992 – including tribeca Grill, Le Cirque, delmonico’s and Cipriani wall street. The great thing about restaurant week is that it allows diners with tighter purse string to

les, housein 2013 … bitter greens, esoteric vegetab Trend alerT ... what’s on the menu s, sweet emade vinegars, upscaled chicken, hibiscu smoked everything, fermentation, hom earth grills. t cider, wood-burning stoves and open-h geranium and other edible flowers, craf 76 |

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experience some of the city’s finest cooking, at places such as nobu, Lure fishbar, nougatine at Jean-Georges, Maze by Gordon ramsay and Café Boulud. “I love the concept behind NYC Restaurant Week,” says Gavin Kaysen, head chef at Café Boulud. “It allows us to showcase what we do to a much wider audience and we are humbled by the amount of people who come here during that time and in return, we try and make sure they get the very same experience our regular diners get any other time of the year.” New York Restaurant week runs until February 8 and will return again in the summer. See nycgo.com/ restaurantweek for more.

PETERS

BARS & RESTAURANTS

THE MUCKY DUCK Celbridge, Co. Kildare

01 6288340 / muckyduck.ie Situated in the heart of Celbridge, Co. Kildare Guinness Time began here in the Guinness family home with the birth of Arthur Guinness in 1725. So began a wonderful piece of Irish history. With that heritage it's no surprise that the Mucky Duck has earned a reputation for great food and drink. A must visit for fans of the "Black Stuff "!

THE COUNTY CLUB Dunshaughlin, Co. Meath

01 8259220 / countyclub.ie Located less than 30 minutes from Dublin city centre The County Club has long been a favourite with customers looking for great f ood in comfortable surroundings. The County Club's daily carvery is a particular favourite while we are also renowned for our wonderful Irish steaks.

AN SIBIN

Dunshaughlin, Co. Meath 01 8250556 / sibin.ie With it's traditional thatched roof An Sibin is a landmark in the heart of the village of Dunshaughlin. A blend comfort and age old of new world com tradition serving breakfast, lunch and dinner while also the perfect venue for parties and great nights out.

S T EA K O N T H E S T O NE

Our signature Steak on the Stone special is a must have, a unique dining experience which is available on all our a la carte menus.

CARBERRYS

Dunshaughlin, Co. Meath 01 8240133 / carberrys.ie Summer 2013 promises to be a bumper period for sports fans so Carberry's is the place to be to sample a all the atmosphere while also enjoying the summer days in our outdoor pavilion.

For show & shuttle bus from city centre. Now booking for 2012 & 2013

O ’ F L AH ER TY S / BR AD Y ’ S BA R Navan, Co. Meath 046 9022810 / oflahertys.ie Whether you visit O'Flaherty's for our delicious carvery, a night out with friends or to catch live sport screens you are sure to on our big sc have a memorable time and why not have a nightcap around the roaring fire in Brady's Bar! Sláinte.

THE WILTON Cork City

021 4344454 / wiltonpub.ie Long established on Leeside with fine food served all day in the lounge bar and upstairs in our Loft Restaurant. The Wilton is a must on your next visit W to Cork. Don't forget to leave room for our famous homemade, brown bread ice cream!

Visit us Visi t us On line Online

We are now accepting your old Punts as payment for food or Drinks!!

One of Dublin’s Top 10 Get the free App

new york for foodies

booked months in advance and you need the powers of Uri Geller to snag a place at a sacred tasting menu table. If tasting menus are your thing, you’ll love the city’s new breed of super-exclusive chef’s table restaurants, where the diners are few and the list of dishes is endless. Here, a host of ambitious chefs are leaving simpler dishes behind and pouring their culinary energies into creating extravagant, omakase-style tasting dinners (that means the chef SOCIAL selects the dishes for you). And it’s all happening SOUP in Brooklyn. Dining For a lunch outing like no other, trends used to migrate join hundreds of other hungry New from Manhattan Yorkers for a hearty bowl of soup and out to the wilds some crusty bread served in the lofty, al of Brooklyn, but fresco setting of the high line, left, for just these days it’s the $7. Follow @highlinenyc on Twitter to find other way around. out when the next social soup outing will Brooklyn Fare is a take place. Or go anytime and feast from slick 21st-century the array of artisan food stalls that are gourmet grocery dotted along this elevated public beef and broccoli. To finish store, Dean & DeLuca parkway. thehighline.org it’s a selection of homemade style, but with an added cookies. It may sound ordinary special something – namely but it couldn’t be further from it. the three-Michelin-star Chef’s The ingredients are exquisite, and Table at Brooklyn Fare (200 the presentation is pared-back Schermerhorn Street, +1 718 243 The Highline, perfection. The folks at Michelin above, a mile-long 0050; brooklynfare.com). Here César have awarded it a star for 2013 and park on an old Ramirez serves up a 20-course, $225 freight line that extravaganza to 18 lucky diners critics have been bending themselves snakes above perched on high stools around a out of shape over the 20-course, Manhattan; left, $150 tasting menu offered to only central kitchen-cum-stage. Gastro produce at Union a handful of diners each evening. Square Farmers highlights include the likes of frizzled Needless to say tables have to be market. blowfish tails touched with saffron,

stay (and eat) at ... wythe hotel It’s all about Brooklyn this year, so if you’re planning to branch out and base yourself in the ’burbs, this is the place to stay. An old waterfront factory, this Williamsburg building began life as a cooperage that made barrels and casks. Bedrooms and public spaces are much roomier than anywhere else in Manhattan and enjoy stunning views over the New York skyline. Design throughout is flawless, with the time-worn wood of the original structure used to make the beds and ceilings. The result is

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airy and fashionably industrial but warmed up with wood. In the restaurant, Reynards, chef Andrew Tarlow is wowing diners with his farm-to-table menu, offering hearty cuts of meat (and whole animals for larger groups) cooked over the open-air wood-fired grill. Doubles from a refreshing €140 per night. (80 Wythe Avenue, +1 718 460 8000; wythehotel.com) the noMad hotel Located in the uber-hip Flatiron district, the NoMad hotel is the new one everyone is talking about, bringing a touch of Beaux

Arts French chic to this funky neighbourhood. The result is opulent but balances the boudoir theme with plenty of manly bashed leather club chairs and sofas. The restaurant is something special too, headed by Daniel Humm of Eleven Madison Park. Doubles from €300. (1170 Broadway, +1 212 796 1500; thenomadhotel.com). the lowell For leafy luxury on the Upper East Side, make it The Lowell. This small, opulently appointed hotel, located just off Madison

Avenue, is all about the hush. Here the service is discreet and the mood is mellow. Luxurious touches abound, and The Pembroke Room restaurant serves up suitably smart food in its old-world setting gleaming with chinoiserie wallpaper and silk-covered chairs. If it’s a vibrant bar scene you’re after you won’t find it here but for a sumptuous retreat from the Big Apple hustle and bustle you couldn’t do better. Deluxe king rooms from €530. (28 East 63rd Street, +1 212 838 1400; lowellhotel.com)

Clockwise from top left, a Tertulia dish, gutsy Spanish food; Red Farm chef Joe Ng serves up contemporary Chinese food; New Yorker Taylor Fattoross shops at Union Square Farmers’ Market; Serag Shiko’s food truck. FEBRUARY/MARCH 2013

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Clockwise from top left, stallholder Gerardo Sarabio Philips at the Union Square market; Jamaican food at Miss Lily’s; New Yorker Ethan Russell; Donggi Lee’s Seo kyung food truck.

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rose-coloured lobster claws paired ingeniously with bits of grapefruit and little thimblefuls of smoked brandade buried under drifts of smoky truffles flown in from Italy. Bookings can be made a minimum of six weeks in advance for parties of two or four people only. While around the Brooklyn block, another 12-seater private dining room, Blanca (261 Moore Street, +1 646 703 2715; blancanyc.com) is also setting the New York gastro-grapevine alight. Brought to you by the team behind legendary pizza place, Roberta’s, Blanca, at 93sqm, offers an airier and more informal dining experience than Brooklyn Fare, and a more affordable one at $180 per person. But the 20-odd course tasting menu is every bit as impressive, albeit more down-to-earth. Think: house-made prosciutto accompanied by a goat milk granita piled high with Russian caviar, Japanese sweet potatoes with a dab of buttermilk and watercress juice, courses of horse mackerel, soft-shell crab and perch, finishing off with chef Carlo Mirarchi’s deeply aged meats and cheese. Bookings can

only be made by phone, a minimum of four weeks in advance. Refreshingly though, alongside this trend for extravagant tasting menus and exclusive, impossibleto-get-into-dining-rooms, a vibrant counter-current is sweeping the city – a one that champions informal eateries offering a fresh take on ethnic eating. Irish restaurateur John Farrell (the man behind Dublin’s Dillinger’s, The Butcher Grill, 777 and the soon-to-open Super Miss Sue) travels to New York regularly. “I’ve always had a hard time eating out in New York; there are just too many great places to choose from. At the moment I’m loving the city’s take on contemporary Chinese food, Red Farm [529 Hudson Street, +1 212 792 9700; redfarmnyc.com] in the West Village is one of the hottest menus in town. The best things here are chef Joe Ng’s playful dim sum creations, such as the 'Pac man' dumplings, The Katz’s pastrami egg roll, and the pan-fried lamb dumplings. For modern Mexican it has to be El Toro Blanco [257 6th Avenue, +1 212 645 0193; eltoroblanco.tumblr.com] also in the West Village, and for the best pizza you’ve ever tasted, make the trip to Roberta’s Pizza [261 Moore Street, +1 718 417 1118; robertaspizza.com] in Brooklyn. I also love Danji [346

IllUSTRATION BY ANNE SMITH annesmith.net

West 52nd Street, +1 212 586 2880; danjinyc.com] west of Midtown, for its contemporary take on Korean fare – bulgogi, kimchee, kalbi – it’s all I want to eat at the moment.” Farrell plans to bring some of this NYC magic home with the opening of his Airstream diner on Dublin’s George’s Street in April. New York’s food critics and bloggers can’t get enough of these global gourmet outposts where prices are pocket-friendly and flavours are fiesty. The New York Times loves Maharlika Filipino Moderno (111 1st Avenue, +1 646 392 7880; maharlikanyc.com) in the East Village for its “Sizzling sisig – a heap of finely chopped pig ears, snout and belly, whose tricky bits have been grilled, boiled, then fried into submission”. While the lads at Urban Daddy favour hip Jamaican jerk hut, Miss Lily’s in the East Village (132 West Houston Street, +1 646 588 5375; misslilysnyc.com) – which they describe as a “Club Med for fashion week models”, but swear they’re really there for the famous fried plantains, fiery jambalaya and cold Caribbean beer. Interestingly, the Irish are also making waves in this arena, but not with a crubeen and coddle hut, you’ll be glad to hear. Instead talented Irish chef Seamus Mullen (who earned his culinary stripes in Gramercy Park’s Boqueria) opened Tertulia (359 6th Avenue, +1 646 559 9909;

tertulianyc.com) in the West Village to rave reviews. This rustic, Spanishstyle gastro pub, reminiscent of the sidrerīas of northern Spain, serves up endless small plates of food rich in pork fat and good olive oil, pungent with salt and garlic and scented with wood smoke and paprika. Dishes such as paella de mariscos and hearty chuleton (40-day aged prime rib) are cooked in traditional style over an enormous open hearth and New

York foodies just can’t get enough of it. Critic Ryan Sutton sums it up by saying: “At 11pm on a Friday night, there’s still a wait because this is where Manhattan is eating right now. Rightly so.” Olé, Seamus. aer lingus flies from Dublin to new york daily, and from Shannon to new york, Tue, Thur and Sat.

3 new york outings ... Drink up Craft beer enthusiasts and anyone with a thirst will love the old-school Brooklyn Brewery. Go for one of its Small Batch tours midweek and you’ll pretty much have the place to yourself. For $8 you get a guided tasting of four beers and an in-depth brewery history lesson and tour. They love a bit of beer trivia, so come prepared to out-geek the geeks. (1 Brewers Row, 79 North 11th Street, +1 718 486 7422; brooklynbrewery.com) stars on stage Catch Tom

Hanks’s Broadway debut as he stars in Nora Ephron’s Lucky Guy. Ephron returned to her journalistic roots with this new play about the scandal- and graffiti-ridden New York of the 1980s, as told through the story of the charismatic and controversial tabloid columnist Mike McAlary. (From March 1 at The Broadhurst Theatre on Broadway. For tickets visit shubertorganization.com) Fair play This March the international art fair, the armory show, once again turns

the global cultural spotlight on New York. Undoubtedly one of the most important annual events inClockwise the city, the fromshow above, takes over Pierselectronica 92 and 94 in hub, The Bernard central Manhattan, with galleries Shaw; Gib Cassidy participating from all over the goes on the world. Once again Dublin’s record; delicious Kerlin Gallery will fly vinyl, both at the flag for Elastic Witch. esteemed Ireland, representing Next page, LeSean Irish artists including Galaxie noodling. Scully, Dorothy Cross, Stephen McKenna and more, and always puts on a great show. (March 7-10; thearmoryshow.com) MiDnight Feast Take a

sharp left off the tourist trail and join Jeff O for a foodie tour with real bite. His Midnight Crawl through Queens kicks off after dark and promises to take adventurous foodies to sample some of the best street food from the Ecuadorian, Colombian, Dominican and Mexican food trucks sprinkled around the colourful environs of Roosevelt Avenue, from Jackson Heights to Corona. Tour costs $68 per person and includes food, drink and “any fines you may incur”. (gidsy.com)

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ADVERTORIAL

hit the road Road trips offer the ultimate holiday freedom. Andy Bennett hires a Hertz car and explores the south of France at his family’s leisure.

t’s almost 1pm and we’re wandering around Sérignan in the Languedoc-Roussillon region of southern France. It’s an atmospheric village on the River Orb, sleepy, dusty and just stretching into life for the lunchtime rush. We spent the morning at the local beach, Sérignan-Plage, a glorious stretch of sand that seems to stretch to infinity. Now, lightly sunburned and with an appetite fuelled by hours of splashing in the twinkling Mediterranean, we’re on the hunt for cassoulet, the famed casserole of the region, filled with white haricot beans, sausage and duck. We’ve booked into an auberge, so we can have a drink – maybe a robust local Corbières. Later, we’ll sit at a pavement café sipping a pastis, the aniseed liquor diluted with water and ice. We’ve been in France for just three days so far but already we feel like we’ve been here forever. Instead of taking our own car on the ferry, as we have done in the past, we flew to Toulouse with Aer Lingus and picked up a five-door hatchback from the Hertz desk at the airport. The main advantage, of course, is that the car is left-hand drive and set up for everything we encounter. When friends say they don’t like driving on the ‘wrong’ side of the road, that’s usually because they’re on the wrong side of the car. This way, you feel much more assured and even the driver can pay at the tollbooth! We booked online and collected our Ford Focus with minimum fuss; the keys were waiting

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on arrival. Instead of taking two full days to get to southwest France by ferry and motorway, we’re on the road three hours after takeoff in Dublin. We allowed just one night for Toulouse, which was a mistake – the Place du Capitole is one of the finest public squares in France. Our next stop was Carcassonne, the ancient home of the Cathars. A fantasy of bastions and turrets – and a UNESCO World Heritage Site – it is one of the most extraordinary places in France. To experience it fully, sit in the small, lantern-festooned square within the walls at night, when most of the day trippers have long gone. It is beyond magical. From there, we moved on to Sérignan, where we will stay for five nights to recharge our batteries. We’ve planned the holiday to minimise driving times and to see as much as possible, which is why we will fly home from Nice. The glory of hiring a car from Hertz – and, indeed, of flexible air fares – is that we can collect at one airport and drop off at another, making maximum use of precious holiday time. The most we will drive on any one day is 150km, which saves us money, too, as we can visit the tourist hotpots without being ripped off; when lunchtime comes, we drive a few kilometres away and see at least a one-third reduction in the price of eating out. When once we would have been nervous about deviating too much in case we couldn’t find our way back to the main routes, the Hertz NeverLost satellite navigation system, powered by TomTom, is a godsend and even recommends local sights.

The ancient fortified city of Carcassonne in France’s south.

The Route » Toulouse to Carcassonne (105km, 1h 7m) » Carcassonne to Sérignan (91km, 56m) » Sérignan to Aigues-Mortes (100km, 1h 7m) » Aigues-Mortes to Arles (46km, 47m, but allow a day for sightseeing in the Camargue) » Arles to Salon-de-Provence (45km, 34m) » Salon-de-Provence to Aix-en-Provence (37km, 30m) » Aix-en-Provence to St Tropez (125km, 1h 45m) » St Tropez to Cannes (87km, 1h 13m) » Cannes to Nice (32km, 32m) TOTAL DISTANCE: 674 km TOTAL TIME: 8.4 hours

ADVERTORIAL

FIVE OTHER GREAT ROAD TRIPS MADE SIMPLE WITH HERTZ AND AER LINGUS Orlando to Miami and back Drive from the theme park capital of the world and visit Daytona, Cape Canaveral, Sebastian Inlet, Palm Beach, Fort Lauderdale and Miami’s hip resort, South Beach. Stop off at Sawgrass Mills – the sixth largest mall in the US, with over 300 factory outlet stores – returning on the Florida Turnpike. The Romantic Road, Germany One of Europe’s loveliest drives. Fly to Frankfurt, pick up your car and head for historic Würzburg, magnificently restored after near annihilation in the Second World War. Highlights include Rothenburg ob der Tauber, the chocolate-box town that is one of Germany’s best-preserved medieval treasures; the university city of Augsburg; the incredible rococo Wieskirche church, and the showstopping Neuschwanstein Castle.

Typical Provençal country house.

Feeling refreshed, we leave Sérignan for Aigues-Mortes, another ancient walled city that was the embarkation point for some of the Crusades. Bedecked in flags, full of cafés and buzzing with life, it’s a wonderful place to while away a few hours before moving on to the Camargue National Park. Caught in the fork of the Rhone estuary, Europe’s largest river delta is outstanding and home to lagoons, marshes and wildly beautiful scenery. It is also one of the only places in Europe where you can see wild flamingos. The next stop is Arles – associated with Vincent van Gogh – then Salon-de-Provence, to visit a brilliant museum dedicated to the visionary, Nostradamus. Aix-en-Provence is the next stop, a beautiful city with tree-lined streets and wonderful markets where you can grab the makings of the best picnic you ever will eat. But this is the south of France and now we have just one destination in mind – the Cote d’Azur, or French Riviera. We start in St Tropez, made famous by Brigitte Bardot and now host to a parade of celebrities every year hanging out at ritzy clubs such as Nikki Beach. Our budget is more modest, so we wander around the port

trying to guess who has charted the superyachts. But there’s only so much bling you can take, so we wander back to the Place des Lices, where young and old men play pétanque, a form of boules, like older, more modest times. From St Tropez, we take the winding coast road to Cannes, where food and drink are surprisingly affordable away from the Croisette, the famous promenade that once a year becomes the focus for the film festival. Finally, we have two nights in Nice. Instead of cassoulet, we’ll be trying the famous salade Niçoise, washed down not with Corbières but with local rosé wine as we sit on the Promenade des Anglais watching the sun set over the Baie des Anges, the Bay of Angels. The car is parked and we may take it out tomorrow and drive to Monaco, or Eze-sur-Mer, or even into Italy to visit Ventimiglia or San Remo. Or maybe we won’t. What we’ve learned here is that hiring a car gives us the freedom not only to do what we want but also to do nothing if we choose. It’s there if we need it and we really don’t need it until we drive to Nice Airport on Saturday. For now, all that matters is food, family and fun.

Italian lakes and lagoons Fly to Milan Linate or Malpensa and drive around Lake Como and Lake Garda before spending a few nights in Verona, home of Romeo and Juliet. The world’s busiest open-air opera season runs all summer at the magnificent Roman amphitheatre (this year’s programme can be found at arena.it). Continue and make a base at Lido di Jesolo, or the campsites near Punta Sabbioni (Marina di Venezia and Union Lido are small towns in themselves) and take the public ferry service to the jewel of the Adriatic Sea, Venice. Highland fling If the brooding scenery around Scotland’s Glencoe that featured in last year’s Bond smash hit, Skyfall, took your fancy, try a loop from Glasgow that includes the bonny banks of Loch Lomond, Oban, Glencoe, Fort William, Loch Ness (careful, now!), Inverness, Culloden, Aberdeen, the Forth Bridge and Edinburgh, the Athens of the North, before returning to Glasgow. Catalan treats Fly into Barcelona and visit the brilliant Port Aventura theme park in Salou (Shambhala, which opened last year, is Europe’s tallest rollercoaster with a first drop of 78 metres, or 255 feet, and a top speed of 134km/h). See the Roman ruins at Tarragona, the stunning Marian shrine at Montserrat, d’Anoia, Girona’s Jewish quarter, the Salvador Dalí museum in Figueres, and the magnificent beaches of the Costa Brava.

The beautiful city of Cannes.

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being there

n ... i s r U O h 48

Faro

A deserted island, kayaking, easy shopping, ace Portuguese seafood and late bars await in Faro, writes Bruno Filipe Pires.

t’s rather ironic that the thousands of sun-seekers, holidaymakers and golfers who land in the Algarve every year simply skip Faro on their way to everywhere else. If you take the time to explore, you’ll be surprised at what it has to offer. This is not a large town – the population is about 65,000 – so you can walk to all the most interesting places. A good place to start is the Museu Municipal de Faro. It has more than 13,000 artefacts, including Roman statues, Moorish vases and Renaissance paintings, and the building itself, a beautiful 16th-century former convent, is reason enough to visit. Shopping is easy: the pedestrianised Rua de Santo António hosts many of the town’s traditional stores and boutiques. If you are after international brands, check out the Forum Algarve mall on the road in from the airport (minibuses run every 15 minutes).

Above right, Faro Old Town; top, take a boat trip to the secluded Ilha Deserta; left, stunning views from Faro Cathedral’s bell tower.

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DOn’t MiSS … For a 30-minute musical journey into fado, traditional Portuguese guitar music, meet local musician and composer Joao Cunha in the old town’s exhibition space galeria Arco (Rua Arco, +351 916 434 730). Until late March he will be performing concerts throughout the day from 11am until 4pm; the entrance fee is €5. Despite being burnt down in 1596 by Robert Devereux, the second Earl of Essex, and damaged in an earthquake in 1755, the rebuilt Faro Cathedral is sumptuous (Largo da Se). You can also climb the 68 stairs to the bell tower and fall in love with the view. Kayaking tours around the ria Formosa are great

fun. Catch a bus to the beach at Praia de Faro (€1.95 each way) and from there head to the sailing club Centro náutico da Praia de Faro (+351 289 870 898) – beginners can buy a first lesson for as little as €3. Then, you can rent a kayak for two hours (€2) and enjoy the marvellous scenery. Afterwards, relax and have a nice hot chocolate at the cosy Aki há Praia Lounge beach bar (+351 919 555 589) next door.

Do not spend 48 hours in Faro without visiting the ilha Deserta (ilha-deserta. com). This rustic islet really is deserted apart from a few fishermen’s shacks and a wooden caférestaurant. Take the 35-minute ferry from Porta nova Pier (daily catamaran crossings at 10am, 1.15pm and 4.45pm) and be amazed by the peace, calm, beauty and biodiversity of the Reserva Natural da Ria Formosa at the other end.

Clockwise from left, a fisherman holding a large rock bass; Faro café culture; Caldeirada de Peixe, aka fish stew; the marina-located Hotel Faro; and the wonderfully Baroque Carmo Church.

SLEEP AT … Faro has many accommodation options, with prices ranging from budget to luxury. If you’re on a tight budget or want something simple, try the Sleepin’ Faro Hostel (Largo da Estação 5, +351 289 878 581, sleepinfaro@ gmail.com), popular with backpackers. Opened in September 2011 by three friends who restored this historic house just opposite the railway station, it offers private twin room (€12) or a dorm for six or eight people (from €10). If you’re looking for more comfort, try the four-star Hotel Eva (Avenida da República, 1, +351 289 001 000; tdhotels.com/eva), which has 121 rooms and 13 suites. It has been well refurbished and is a top choice for VIP visitors and business travellers. Rooms start at €60. EAT AT … Fresh fish is a must when eating in the Algarve. Try the local seafood at the small restaurant Vivmar (Rua Comandante Francisco Manuel, 8, +351 916 145 584/6). Beside the quay Portas do Mar, it’s very easy to spot – and now owned by the international boxing champion Bento Algarvio and his wife (mains cost just €7.50). If you want to try local specialties such as the Caldeirada de Peixe (fish stew), Arroz de Lingueirão

(razor clams with rice), Feijoada de Buzinas (bean stew with sea-snails) and of course, the Cataplana, nicely done, go to Adega Nova (Rua Francisco Barreto, 24, +351 289 813 433; restauranteadeganova.com). Less than 50 metres from the central railway is more fine seafood at Taska Sabores Algarvios (Rua do Alportel, 38, +351 289 824 739), and also recommended is Ginásio Clube Naval (Doca de Faro, +351 289 823 434) just behind the marina.

DRINK AT … Faro’s Algarve University supports a fairly decent bar scene and while many don’t open much before midnight, that won’t stop you enjoying a drink at any time of day. Try some late-afternoon cocktails at the Columbus Bar (Rua Dom Francisco Gomes, +351 9177 6222; barcolumbus.pt) set in a 500-year-old former hospital. Later on check out live music and karaoke bar Che60 (Rua do Prior, 24, +351 9311 94314).

Also close to the marina and town centre is the contemporary Hotel Faro (Praça. Dom Francisco Gomes 2, +351 289 830 830; hotelfaro.pt) – last year, local alternative band Mudo as Maria performed a special concert in room 101. It has 90 rooms and three suites and even if you don’t stay here, a visit to its panoramic rooftop restaurant and bar is a must. A twin room costs from €68 during low season.

In contrast, don’t miss Os Artistas (Rua do Montepio, 10, +351 289 822 988), a popular intellectual meeting point since 1906, while at nightclub Cidade da Música (Rua do Prior, 21-23, +351 289 826 163; cidadedamusica.pt) you can party all night long. Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Faro, Tue, Thu and Sat, from Shannon, a new route commences May 1, Wed and Fri, from Cork, Tue, Thur, Sat and Sun, and from Belfast daily.

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 Mon repos, once the summer residence of the Greek Royal family, is the birthplace of Britain’s Prince Philip, Duke of Edinburgh. Located in Garitsa Bay, it’s now ThE PAlAIoPolI MuSEuM of Ionian treasures, hidden in a forest of tropical plants and surrounded by Roman baths, ancient temple ruins and the oldest church in Corfu Town. (+30 26610 41369)

An Insider’s Guide to

corfu

It’s easy to escape the madding crowds on an island ripe with history and natural beauty, says Irish-Greek native Lia Manesi. PHOTOGRAPH BY B. METALLINOS

 For respite from the tourist beaches, take a day boat trip to be the peacefully remote island of ErIkouSSA on the north west coast. Er There are golden sands, shower Th facilities for campers, one hotel – fa Hotel Erikoussa (hotelerikoussa.gr) Ho – and a mere 20 inhabitants.

 Built in the 19th century for the services of the British Governor, the Palace of St Michael and St George has housed the corfu MuSEuM of ASIAN ArT since 1926. Its important and rare collection includes Samurai armour, Indian miniatures and Chinese ceramics, while one wing is reserved for local artist exhibitions. (+30 26610 30443)

 EASTEr wEEk is a constant co procession of litanies lita accompanied by colourfully dressed priests pr and brass bands marching mar throughout the old town. At precisely 11am on Easter Saturday pottery po is thrown out of the th windows; at midnight fireworks fir go off and, on Easter East Sunday, a lamb spit spi in Esplanade Square marks mark the end of Lent.

 Named after its shape, the MouSE ISlANd and VlAchErNA, its tiny little white-washed church, are highlights.

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bEING THERE  The ACHILLEION PALACE, in the village of Gastouri, was built by Empress Sissy of Austria who lavishly decorated it with statues and paintings inspired by ancient Greece. It is thus a journey into the world of Greek mythology, enhanced by the enchanting views of the surrounding hills and coastline. (achillion-corfu.gr)

 The shops in the UNESCO-protected CORFu OLD TOWN stay open all day every day, offering local products. For a good selection of leather bags or leather coats, check out the Spilia area. For silverware, head to the small Jewish quarter, for handmade sandals, jewellery and lace, try St Spyridon’s Street.  bIOPOROS, a family-run organic farm situated on Lake Corission is a great place for bird watching. The restaurant serves freshly baked homemade food and natural produce. Visitors may watch or participate in the seasonal farming activities, while cookery courses are organised in both Greek and English. (bioporos.gr)

 For those wanting to stay downtown, the ideal hotel is the Arcadion. It is in th Arcadio the heart of the old Ve Venetian tia to town and overlooks rlooks the Esplanade Square, the Old Fort and the Liston arcades (rooms from €70; arcadionhotel.com). And for a very special evening, the CAVALIERI HOTEL ROOF GARDEN, above, is the place to be – cocktails, gourmet food and a breathtaking view of Corfu Town. (cavalieri-hotel-corfu-town.com)

 Albanians once braved the currents and the communist naval patrol to swim across to AGIOS STEFANOS, their closest point to Corfu – and to freedom. Here you’ll find a wonderful variety of jewellery, olive wood and pottery handcrafts in the tourist shop at the top of the steps, and refreshing cappuccino freddo (iced coffee) on the sea front.

 Known as the “musical island”, Corfu boasts three isl main PHILHARMONIC ma bANDS that compete in bA open-air performances in op the main squares and march th through towns on festive days. th Concerts are also regularly Co held at the Ionian Academy, he the Old Fort and the Duomo th (Catholic Cathedral). (C

Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Corfu on Sundays.

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MORE AbOuT LIA Lia Manesi’s Irish mum left her homeland after having fallen in love with Corfu’s sun, sea, sand … and Lia’s Greek dad. And just like her mum, Manesi Jnr has inherited the spirit of a nomad. In contrast to the freedom and safety of the Greek island on which she was raised, Lia has travelled the world as a humanitarian aid worker, and is currently based in the Democratic Republic of Congo. But her heart belongs to Corfu.

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A workshop of cutting edge Italian food. Town Square, Dundrum Town Centre, Dublin 18. Tel: +353 (1) 216 6764 Unit 35, Kildare Village, Co. Kildare. Tel: +353 45 535850

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InFlight

For your guide to our new and exciting On Demand movies and television programmes, including The Master (pictured), turn to pages 96 and 97.

FEBRUARY/MARCH 2013

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WelcomeAboard For your comfort and safety Please pay attention while the cabin crew demonstrate the use of the safety equipment before take-off. Also, make sure to read the safety instruction card, which is in the seat pocket in front of you. Seat belts must be fastened during take-off and landing, and whenever the “Fasten Seat Belts” sign is switched on. We recommend that you keep your seat belt loosely fastened throughout the flight.

Your seat must be in the upright position during takeoff and landing, but can be reclined by pressing the large button in the armrest. Other buttons (in the armrest or above your head, depending on the aircraft) may be used to operate your reading light and air vent, or to call a cabin attendant.

Ar mhaithe de do chompord agus le do shábháilteacht ... ... iarraimid ort aird mhaith a thabhairt, ar an bhfoireann cábáin ag tús na heililte agus iad ag taispeáint conas an fearas slándála a úsáid. Iarraimid ort an cárta threoraca slándála atá i bpóca an tsuíocháin os do chomhair a léamh chomh maith. Caithfear criosanna sábhála bheith ceangailte le linn éirí agus tuirlingthe agus ag aon am a bhíonn an comhartha “Fasten Seat Belts” ar iasadh. Molaimid duit an crios sábhála bheith leathcheangailte agat i rith an turais.

Le linn éirí agus tuirlingthe, ní mór do shuíochan bheith sa suíomh ingearach. Ag am ar bith eile, is féidir an suíochán a chur siar ach brú ar an gcnaipe mór atá ar an taca uillinne. Tá cnaipí eile ann (ar an taca uillinne nó os do chionn, ag brath ar an eitleán) chun úsáid a bhaint as an solas léitheoireachta nó as an ngaothaire, nó chun glaoch ar bhall den fhoireann cábáin.

Portable electronic equipment Portable electronic equipment may interfere with aircraft equipment, creating a potentially hazardous situation. With safety as our priority, we ask you to pay particular attention to the following: Mobile phones and all other personal electronic equipment must be switched off and stowed safely as soon as the aircraft doors are closed. It is not permissible to use any electronic device to transmit or receive data during the flight, however devices equipped with flight mode, or the equivalent, may be used. Flight mode should be selected before the device is switched off. Devices PermitteD ✔ at any time: Devices powered by micro battery cells

and/or by solar cells; hearing aids (including digital devices); pagers (receivers only); heart pacemakers.

Devices PermitteD ● in flight but not During taxi/take-off/

initial climb/aPProach lanDing: Laptops with CD ROM or DVD drive, palmtop organisers, handheld calculators without printers, portable audio equipment (eg Walkman, CD-player, Mini-disk player, iPod and MP3-player). For the comfort of other passengers, audio devices should be used with a headset. Computer games (eg Gameboy, Nintendo DS). Video cameras/recorders, digital cameras, GPS handheld receivers, electric shavers, electronic toys. Bluetooth devices with mobile phones in “Flight” mode, devices with “Blackberry” technology with “Flight”/Flight Safe” mode

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selected, laptops, PDAs with built-in Wi-Fi with “Wireless Off” setting selected. Devices ProhibiteD ✘ at all times: Devices transmitting radio frequency

intentionally such as walkietalkies, remote controlled toys; wireless computer equipment (eg mouse, keyboard); PC printers, DVD/CD writers and Mini-disk Recorders in the recording mode; digital camcorders when using CD write facility; portable stereo sets; pocket radios (AM/ FM); TV receivers; telemetric equipment; peripheral devices for handheld computer games (eg supplementary power packs connected by cable); wireless LAN (WLAN). Laptops with built-in WLAN (eg Centrino) may be used during flight, provided the WLAN option is turned off and subject to the restrictions associated with the use of laptops detailed above.

Aer Lingus is delighted to welcome you on board Tá áthas ar Aer Lingus fáilte ar bord a chur romhat Food and bar service

seirbhís bia agus beáir

A new range of food items – including sandwiches, confectionery and a range of snacks – is available for sale on all Aer Lingus scheduled services to and from the UK and Europe. A charge applies for all drinks on UK and European flights in Economy class. On long haul flights, there is a charge in Economy class for alcoholic drinks, while soft drinks are complimentary. Details of all items available for purchase are contained in an information leaflet, which is in all seat pockets.

Tá raon nua bia ar fáil anois ar sheirbhísí sceidealta Aer Lingus a dhéanann freastai ar an Riocht Aontaithe agus ar an Eoraip. Ina measc, tá ceapairí, milseogra agus rogha sneaiceanna éagsúla. Ní mór íoc as gach deoch sa ghrád barainne ar na heitiltí seo. Ar eitiltí Trasatlantacha, tá costas ar dheochanna neamh-mheisciúla go fóill ar fáil saor in aisce. Tá sonraí faoi gach rud is féidir a cheannach ar bord foilsithe sa bhileog eolais atá i bpóca an tsuíocháin os do chomhair.

news, music and movies

nuacht, ceol agus scannáin

On long haul flights, we offer you an extensive programme of viewing and listening options. For full details, turn towards the back of this magazine.

Ar eitiltí Trasatlantacha tá clár leathan féachana agus éisteachta ar fáil. Le hagaidh tuilleadh eolais, féach deireadh na hirise seo.

Tá suil

h Aer Lingus. t flight. Thank you for choosing to fly wit san plea and able fort com a e hav you e We hop le hAer Lingus. agat agus go raibh maith agat as taisteal ach mh nea tait h dac por com s tura íonn againn go mb

Fearas iniompartha leictreonach Is féidir le fearas iniompartha leictreonach cur isteach ar threalamh an eitleáin, rud a d’fhéadfadh bheith contúirteach. Agus sábháilteacht mar phríomhchúram ag Aer Lingus, iarraimid ort aird sa bhreis a thabhairt ar an mír seo a leanas: Caithfear gach guthán póca agus gach fearas pearsanta leictreonach a mhúchadh agus a chur i dtaisce a luaithe agus a dhúntar doirse an eitleáin. Ní ceadmhach úsáid a bhaint as uirlis leictreonach ar bith chun sonraí a tharchur nó a ghlacadh i rith na heitilte. Is ceadmhach, áfach, uirlisí le cumas “mód eitilte”, nó a chomhionann sin, a úsáid. Caithfear an lipéad “modh eitilte” a roghnú sula múchtar an uirlis. GLéAsAnnA A bhFuIL ✔ ceAdAIthe I GcónAí: Gléasanna a bhaineann úsáid as

micreaceallairí agus/nó fotaichill; cluaisíní chúnta (gléasanna digiteach san áireamh); glaoirí (gleacadáin amháin); séadairí.

GLéAsAnnA Atá ● ceAdAIthe I rIth nA heItILte, Ach nAch

bhFuIL ceAdAIthe Le LInn don eItLeán bheIth AG GLuAIseAcht Ar tALAmh/AG éIrí de thALAmh/ AG tAbhAIrt FAoIn dreApAdh tosAIGh/ AG dírIú Ar thuIrLInGt/ AG tuIrLInGt: Ríomhairí glúine le tiomántán dlúthdhiosca (CD ROM) nó diosca digiteach ilúsáide (DVD). Eagraithe pearsanta boise. Áireamháin láimhe gan phrintéiri. Clostrealamh iniompartha (ms Walkman, seinnteoir CD, seinnteoir

Mini-disk, iPod, seinnteoir MP3). Ar mhaithe le compord na bpaisinéiri eile, níor choir na gléasanna seo a úsáid ach amháin le cluaisíní. Cluichí ríomhaire (ms Gameboy). Níl cead gaireas forimeallach a úsáid le cluichí láimhe ríomhaire am ar bith (ms paca forlíontach cumhachta a cheanglaítear le cábla). Físcheamaraí agus fístaifeadáin, trealamh digiteach san áireamh. Ceamaraí digiteach. Glacadóirí láimhe chóras suite domhanda (GPS). Rásúir leicreacha. Bréagáin leictreonacha (seachas bréagáin chianrialaithe). Gléasanna “Bluetooth” i gcomhar le gutháin phóca agus iad i “modh eitilte”; uirlisí a bhaineann feidhm as teicneolaíocht “Blackberry” agus “mód eitilte” nó “slánmhód eitilte” roghnaithe orthu; ríomhairí glúine; ríomhairí boise (PDA) le Wi-Fi ionsuite agus an lipéad “raidió múchta” roghnaithe orthu.

GLéAsAnnA A bhFuIL ✘ cosc IomLán orthu: Gléasanna a tharchuireann

minicíocht raidió d’aon turas. Siúlscéalaithe. Bréagaín chianrialaithe. Aonaid fhístaispeána le feadáin ga-chatadóideacha. Trealamh ríomhaire gan sreang (ms luch). Printéirí PC. Schríbhneoiri DVD, CD agus taifeadáin Minidisk atá sa mhodh taifeadta. Ceamthaifeadáin digiteacha agus iad ag athscríobh dlúthdhioscaí. Steiréónna iniompartha. Raidiónna póca (AM/ FM). Glacadóiri teilifíse. Trealamh teiliméadrach. Ní cheadaítear fearas LAN gan sreang (WLAN) a úsáid. Is féidir ríomhairí glúine a bhfuil WLAN ionsuite iontu (ms Centrino) a úsáíd le linn na heitilte ar choinníoll go bhfuil WLAN curtha as agus faoi réir na srianta a bhaineann le húsáid ríomhhairí glúine (thuas luaite).

Smoking In line with Irish government regulations, Aer Lingus has a nosmoking policy onboard its flights. Smoking is not permitted in any part of the cabin at any time. tobAc De réir rialacháin Rialtas na hÉireann, tá polasai i réim ar eitiltí Aer Lingus nach gceadaítear tobac a chaitheamh. Ní cheadaítear d’aon duine tobac a chaitheamh in aon chuid den eitleán ag aon am.

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AerLingusNews

CheCk out some exCiting new produCts on board

A ma nager, John ropean sales est Aer Lingus eu e award for “B th s pt ce ac , of the Keogh, right Javier M oral m fro ” pe ro Awards . Airline to eu ssy at the iT Tn spanish em ba

2012 A A Trophy yeAr for Aer Lingus

er Lingus is constantly looking for new products that will enhance our customers experience. Here is just a taste of what’s to come. With the installation of Wi-Fi underway on the long-haul fleet, Aer Lingus will soon provide customers on its European network with the same facility. The new in-cabin internet access will be available on Aer Lingus short-haul aircraft from mid-2013 offering our customers the fastest and most advanced airborne internet access. The Sky Deli PreOrder Meal option is the latest initiative in a series of new products and is in direct

er Lingus continued its winning ways throughout 2012. The airline scooped the “Best Airline to Europe” Award for the fourth year in a row and joint winner in the “Best Airline to North America” category at the Irish Travel Trade News Awards. The 21st Anniversary Awards ceremony was held in the Burlington hotel in Dublin. In December, the company’s Strategic Sourcing Team were victorious at The National high Flier Procurement Awards, winning in the “Innovation We’re delighted to in Private Procurement” announce that Cara category and the magazine won Customer ‘Procurement Leader’ Magazine of the year 2012 accolade went to, Kieron at the irish Magazine Byrne, Aer Lingus director of strategic sourcing. Awards in december. The Aer Lingus Annual Report 2011 secured first place in the “Small/Medium Quoted Companies” category at the Published Accounts Awards, held at the Shelbourne Hotel in Dublin recently. The awards recognise excellence in financial reporting.

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pictured recently at the launch of the pre-order Meal service were, from left, cabin crew member, sarah-Jane Bennett, darren Wright of Wrights deli and Aer Lingus Chief Commercial officer, stephen Kavanagh.

response to customer feedback. The tasty meal options available for pre-order include an All Day Irish Breakfast and two fresh and delicious salads, Chicken Noodle or Seared Beef, all for just €7.50. The new salad

options were developed in partnership with local Irish supplier, Wrights Deli. Customers on shorthaul flights who wish to enjoy their quality meal on board can now preorder up to 90 days in advance of travel.

Aer Lingus And Virgin LinK up

Aer Lingus recently signed an agreement with Virgin Atlantic under which it will lease four of its short-haul aircraft to operate flights on behalf of Virgin from London Heathrow to Manchester, Edinburgh and Aberdeen. It is intended that operations will commence on 31 March 2013 and aircraft will be painted in Virgin colours.

AerLingusNews

Aer Lingus LAunches the internAtionAL hurLing festivAL

rom Wednesday, 18th to Saturday, 21st September 2013, Aer Lingus will host the first ever International Hurling Festival, in association with The Gathering, and supported by the GAA and Etihad Airways. The qualifying games will take place in regional towns around Galway with the finals being staged at Pearse Stadium. A number of lively traditional music and dance events are also planned to take place in venues around the “City of the Tribes” throughout the festival, supported by Galway GAA and Galway Hurling Supporters Club. Aer Lingus is inviting teams from all over the world

to compete in this unique International Hurling Festival. Together with our partner airline, Etihad Airways, we will bring teams from New York, San Francisco, Canada, Asia, the UK, Continental Europe, the Gulf and Australia. Aer Lingus and the GAA are also using the tournament as an opportunity to promote the game of hurling in developing regions by including teams such as Buenos Aires, Milwaukee, Indianapolis and a European team made up of non-Irish nationals. Further details are available on www.aerlingushurling.com or visit us on Facebook at www.facebook.com/ aerlingushurling.

Pictured at the launch of the Aer Lingus International Hurling Festival at GAA headquarters, Croke Park, were Aer Lingus cabin crew, Claire Sutton, and Laura McCabe and All Star Players representing their counties, Galway – Joe Canning & Fergal Moore; Kilkenny – Brian Hogan; Tipperary – Shane McGrath; Clare – Brendan Bulger; Cork – Shane O’Neill; Waterford – Kevin Moran.

Aer Lingus Are proud supporters of the g-MAc foundAtion

Aer Lingus recently announced that for the second year running it will partner with Graeme McDowell and his charity, The G-Mac Foundation, to bring children recovering from illness and their families on a trip of a lifetime to Orlando, Florida in spring. The children are patients of the Cardiac Unit at Our Lady’s Children’s Hospital, Crumlin.

find us on fAcebook!

Aer Lingus has recently launched its official Facebook page @ www.facebook.com/aerlingus. Over the past number of months, we at Aer Lingus have been nurturing our social media presence. In addition to Facebook, we have launched profiles on addi Instagram, Pinterest, and Tumblr along with our Ins Youtube channel. In addition to this, our YouTube Yout channel and LinkedIn page have been updated. chann We’ll soon be open for business on Twitter our aim is to use these channels of communication to engage with customers to improve the level of service that we can offer, by providing information on new and existing products and sharing positive news stories exis about Aer Lingus. So, be sure to log on and “like” our Facebook page now!

Graeme McDowell, pictured with some of the children and crew who took part in last year’s trip to Orlando.

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Movies

Flights to the UNiteD stAtes LINCOLN

Drama / Biography (PG 13) 150 minutes Steven Spielberg directs Daniel Day-Lewis in Lincoln, a revealing drama based in part on the acclaimed book by Doris Kearns Goodwin. This insightful portrait focuses on the 16th President’s tumultuous final months in office, when the nation is divided by war and the strong winds of change. President Lincoln pursues a course of action designed to end the war, unite the country and abolish slavery. With the moral courage and fierce determination to succeed, his choices during this critical moment will change the fate of generations to come. StarS Daniel Day Lewis, Sally Field, David Strathairn, Joseph Gordon-Levitt, James Spader, Hal Holbrook, Tommy Lee Jones DIreCtOr Steven Spielberg

argO

SmaSheD Drama (R)

here COmeS the BOOm

the trOuBLe WIth BLISS

StarS Ben Affleck, Alan Arkin, Bryan Cranston, John Goodman

StarS Megan Mullally, Aaron Paul, Octavia Spencer, Mary Elizabeth Winstead

Comedy (PG)

Comedy (PG 13)

StarS Kevin James, Salma Hayek, Henry Winkler, Greg Germann

StarS Michael C. Hall, Peter Fonda, Lucy Liu

WON’t BaCk DOWN

parIS maNhattaN

the COLD LIght Of Day

the OraNgeS

Drama (PG)

Comedy (NR)

Action (PG 13)

StarS Viola Davis, Maggie Gyllenhaal, Holly Hunter, Ving Rhames, Oscar Isaac, Rosie Perez

StarS Alice Taglioni, Patrick Bruel, Marine Delterme, Woody Allen,

StarS Henry Cavill, Bruce Willis, Sigourney Weaver

Drama (R)

the SeSSIONS Drama (R) StarS William H. Macy, Helen Hunt, John Hawkes

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WreCk It raLph

mONSterS INC (re-ISSue)

Animation (PG) vOICeS Of John C. Reilly, Jane Lynch, Sarah Silverman

FEBRUARY/MARCH 2013

aLex CrOSS Thriller (PG 13) StarS Tyler Perry, Matthew Fox, Edward Burns, Jean Reno, Rachel Nichols

Comedy (R)

Death Of a SuperherO

StarS Hugh Laurie, Leighton Meester, Catherine Keener, Adam Brody, Oliver Platt

StarS Andy Serkis, Aisling Loftus, Michael Mc Elhatton, Sharon Horgan

Drama (NR)

Animation (G)

marLey aND me: the puppy yearS

aLvIN aND the ChIpmuNkS: ChIpWreCkeD

vOICeS Of John Goodman, Billy Crystal, Steve Buscemi, Jennifer Tilly

StarS Travis Turner, Grayson Russell, Donnelly Rhodes

vOICeS Of Jason Lee, Amy Poehler, Justin Long

Family (PG)

Animation (G)

the perkS Of BeINg a WaLLfLOWer Drama (PG 13)

StarS Emma Watson, Logan Lerman, Kate Walsh, Dylan McDermott

arBItrage Mystery (R)

StarS Richard Gere, Susan Sarandon, Tim Roth

To celebrate the gatherINg IreLaND 2013 – Aer Lingus presents Irish feature Death Of a SuperherO from director Ian FitzGibbon’s (Paths to Freedom, Moone Boy). This poignant coming-of-age story has won a slew of awards worldwide.

Movies

Flights From the UNiteD stAtes Seven PSychoPathS

Comedy / Crime / Drama (R) 108 minutes Marty (Colin Farrell) is a struggling writer who dreams of finishing his screenplay, Seven Psychopaths. Billy is Marty’s best friend, an unemployed actor and part time dog thief who needs a little focus and inspiration. Hans is Billy’s partner in crime. Charlie is the gangster whose beloved dog has been stolen by Billy and Hans. Charlie is unpredictable, and wants to destroy those associated with the theft. Marty is going to get all the focus and inspiration he needs, just as long as he lives to tell the tale. StarS Colin Farrell, Christopher Walken, Sam Rockwell, Woody Harrelson, Abbie Cornish, Tom Waits Director Martin McDonagh

the MaSter Drama (R)

the SaPPhireS Musical (PG 13)

Killing theM Softly

the worDS

Bernie

looPer

Mystery (PG 13)

Comedy (PG 13)

Action (R)

StarS Brad Pitt, Ray Liotta, Richard Jenkins

StarS Bradley Cooper, Zoe Saldana, Jeremy Irons, Dennis Quaid, Olivia Wilde

StarS Jack Black, Shirley MacLaine, Matthew McConaughey

StarS Joseph GordonLevitt, Bruce Willis, Emily Blunt, Paul Dano, Piper Perabo

Silence

Drama (R)

StarS Philip Seymour Hoffman, Joaquin Phoenix and Amy Adams

StarS Chris O’Dowd, Jessica Mauboy, Deborah Mailman, Eka Darville

Butter

10 yearS

enD of watch

liBeral artS

taKen 2

Comedy (R)

Comedy (PG 13)

Drama (R)

Comedy (PG 13)

Thriller (PG 13)

StarS Jennifer Garner, Hugh Jackman, Olivia Wilde

StarS Marty Bowen, Reid Carolin, Wyck Godfrey, Channing Tatum

StarS Jake Gyllenhaal, Michael Peña, Anna Kendrick, America Ferrera

StarS Josh Radnor, Elizabeth Olsen, Richard Jenkins, Elizabeth Reaser

StarS Liam Neeson, Maggie Grace, Famke Janssen

the yellow Bittern: the life anD tiMeS of liaM clancy Documentary (R)

StarS Liam Clancy, Tommy Makem

hotel tranSlyvania Animation (PG) voiceS of Adam Sandler, Selena Gomez, Kevin James, Steve Buscemi, Cee-Lo Green

ice age: continental Drift Animation (PG)

voiceS of Ray Romano, John Leguizamo, Denis Leary, Seann William Scott

fantaStic Mr. fox Animation (PG) voiceS of George Clooney, Meryl Streep, Bill Murray

Dr.SeuSS horton hearS a who Animation (G)

voiceS of Jim Carrey, Steve Carrell, Seth Rogen

Drama (G)

StarS Eoghan MacGiolla Bhríde, Hilary O’Shaughnessy, Andrew Bennett Patrick O’Connor, Michael Harding To celebrate the gathering irelanD 2013 – Aer Lingus presents Irish feature Silence; a film that is both haunting and starkly beautiful in its depiction of the Irish landscape. Also don’t miss the documentary on Liam Clancy.

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Television

ON DEMAND

On Demand TV allows you to select and view your favourite TV shows. Don’t miss the most anticipated new shows on TV in this extensive choice of award-winning Comedy, Drama, Documentary, Lifestyle and Kids programmes.

Moone Boy

The Gathering: Homeward Bound

COMEDY HIGHLIGHTS DOCUMENTARY Available exclusively to Aer Lingus is HIGHLIGHTS six episodes of Moone Boy, the series is a warm family comedy about a young boy growing up in a chaotic household in late 1980s Ireland. Written by and starring Chris O’Dowd; critical acclaim for Moone Boy has been very positive; “Delightfully old-fashioned without tipping over into nostalgia, and full of madcap characters” (Radio Times). There is also brand new comedy from HBO in Girls, Enlightened, Eastbound and Down and Curb Your Enthusiasm. More comedy includes two episodes of Modern Family, How I Met Your Mother, Family Guy, Raising Hope and Last Man Standing.

Documentary highlights include the award-winning Supernatural, Aurora Fire in the Sky and Hummingbirds – Jewelled Messengers and from National Geographic Great Migrations and Bugatti Super Car. A Day In The Life looks at the life of Will.i.am. To celebrate The Gathering do not miss two episodes of The Gathering: Homeward Bound which sees two Irish stars return to their roots. Movie Talk gets up-close and personal with Brendan Gleeson. Gay Byrne talks to Colin Farrell in The Meaning of Life. Ballybrando and Tracks and Trails conclude the schedule.

Other Voices – Best of Irish

LIFESTYLE HIGHLIGHTS

Lifestyle highlights include America’s Next Top Model, Grand Designs, Jamie’s 15 Minute Meals, HSBC Golfing World, The Jo Whiley Music Show, Show Me Your Wardrobe, Planet Rock Profiles, Extreme Sailing, Hubertus Hunt – On Safari Through the Urban Jungle, Concert for Aung San Suu Kyi (Electric Burma), a music documentary to mark the historic visit of the Burmese leader to Dublin, featuring performances from Bono, Bob Geldof and Riverdance. Don’t miss Ireland in Song and Other Voices – Best of Irish – a music show produced exclusively for Aer Lingus to celebrate The Gathering.

Dexter

DRAMA HIGHLIGHTS

As we witness a golden age in TV drama, Aer Lingus offers an engaging choice of drama TV with multiple episodes available from the latest Drama from the US and UK. There are also one-off episodes to select from, watch out for Treme, The Good Wife and brand new Drama starring Lucy Liu (based on Sherlock) in Elementary. The multi award-winning super series Sherlock is back for series 2 and all 3 episodes are available onboard. Sherlock and Watson return to face the ultimate test in three

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of their most famous cases. With beguiling performances, and some of the most intriguing characters ever created, it’s no wonder that Sherlock has proven to be a worldwide success. While Dexter fans excitedly wait for Season 7, you can view 5 intriguing episodes from Season 6. Dexter stars Michael C. Hall in his Golden Globe® award-winning role as Dexter Morgan, a complicated and conflicted bloodspatter expert for the Miami police department who moonlights as a serial killer. The award-winning drama

I’m a Creepy Crawly

Shake It Up

KIDS HIGHLIGHTS TEENS can view Glee, Shake It Up and Zeke and Luther and younger kids will love Irish animation I’m A Creepy Crawly and Fluffy Gardens, as well as Irish cooking show Grubz Up and Phineas and Ferb from Disney.

Sherlock Wallander starring Kenneth Branagh returns for a third series with three thrilling investigations set in Ystad, Sweden and Riga, Latvia. Elegantly filmed and brilliantly acted, this series of Wallander builds on the drama’s reputation, offering intriguing new stories. All three episodes are available On Demand. HBO brings you brand new Drama in The Newsroom with six episodes available to view from Season 1. This Golden Globe-nominated drama takes a behind-the-scenes look at the life of a news anchor and his staff.

HBO Drama also available OnDemand is the first three episodes of Season 3 of the critically acclaimed and award-winning Boardwalk Empire. Steve Buscemi stars in this award-winning drama series that charts the continued rise of organised crime at the dawn of Prohibition in Atlantic City, New Jersey. HBO presents the first five episodes of Season 2 from the astonishingly popular and groundbreaking Game of Thrones. Five kings vie for a single, all-powerful throne in the all-new season of the hit series.

Radio 1980s

ON DEMAND Alternative

Classical

Easy Listening

Fitzpatrick Hotels This is a contemporary easy-listening collection of songs from both sides of the Atlantic, brought to you compliments of The Fitzpatrick Hotel Group USA. With two hotels in downtown Manhattan, Grand Central and Fitzpatrick Manhattan, Fitzpatrick’s is the place to stay in NYC. Visit their website for more information fitzpatrickhotels.com. Fitzpatrick Hotels USA are also on Twitter & Facebook.

Pop

Larry Gogan’s Golden Oldies Legendary RTÉ 2fm DJ Larry Gogan brings listeners on board his selection of 1980s classics. Larry has been playing music on RTÉ 2fm for over 30 years. Larry is thrilled to bring Aer Lingus passengers his eclectic 80s mix. From Michael Jackson to Wham, Simple Minds and U2 – Larry has the 1980s covered. Tune in to hear more from the legend himself – weekdays on RTÉ 2fm from 1-2pm on Larry’s Golden Hour.

Indie Hits Tune into Indie Hits – an alternative selection of tunes from bands that have now gained cult status. Featuring Goth legends from the 1980s – The Cure, The Cult and The Jesus & Mary Chain. Listen out for Manchester’s finest Indie gods The Smiths and The Stone Roses as well as Britpop giants Blur and Oasis. Also tune in to hear hidden gems from US Indie stalwarts REM, Soundgarden and of course the inimitable Pixies.

Niall Carroll’s Classical Daytime For the ideal accompaniment to your flight, join Niall Carroll for an hour of great music from the heart of the classical repertoire. In this selection Niall Carroll presents the finest selection of Irish classical performers from RTÉ lyric fm’s own label, including performances by soprano Celine Byrne, the RTÉ Concert Orchestra and the RTÉ National Symphony Orchestra. Tune into RTÉ lyric fm Mon-Fri 10am-2pm for more.

Folk/Roots

Talk Radio

Traditional Irish

Chart Hits

Roots Freeway

Best of Moncrieff

Ceol na nGael

Chart Hits lifts the lid on the most up-to-the-minute Pop hits from both sides of the Atlantic. Listen out for your favourite artists in this compilation of smash hits. This exciting compilation of songs features hits from the world’s most successful artists Rihanna, Christina Aguilera and Robbie Williams as well as newcomers to the Pop scene Rita Ora, and Labrinth and X Factor alumni JLS and Leona Lewis.

Roots Freeway is presented by music aficionado Niall Toner and is an eclectic mix of Folk Music, Bluegrass, Blues and Roots Music. As well as presenting Roots Freeway, Niall is a songwriter and a musician. In this edition of his show for Aer Lingus he plays a unique selection of country, folk, roots and bluegrass music. Toner returned to RTÉ Radio One on Saturday, December 1st at 11pm where you can also tune in for more.

Best of Moncrieff is a lively mix of funny, engaging and irreverent features. Its insightful format gives listeners a unique listening experience. Tune into Best of Moncrieff every weekday from 1.30-4.30pm on Newstalk 106-108fm for a lively mix of phone-ins, text messages and stories from around the world and down your street. Text 53106, email afternoon@ newstalk.ie or follow Sean on Twitter @SeanMoncrieff.

Ceol na nGael is a traditional music programme presented, in Irish, by Seán Ó hÉanaigh. Seán presents Sruth na Maoile on RTÉ Raidió na Gaeltachta. The station is the national Irish language broadcaster in Ireland, and is celebrating 40 years on air. Ceol traidisiúnta agus ceol tíre den scoth, le Seán Ó hÉanaigh. For more visit: rte.ie/rnag. Twitter @RTERnaG.

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Radio Traditional Irish

ON DEMAND

Irish

Countdown

Documentary On One Documentary On One is the multiawardwinning radio documentary strand from RTÉ Radio 1 (88-90FM) and the most successful documentary unit in the world. The website contains over 1,000 radio documentaries – all freely available to listen/podcast. The documentary featured here is titled Message in a Bottle and tells the story of an American Serviceman who tossed a note in a bottle and threw it overboard – it was found in Dingle by Breda O’Sullivan. What ensued was a media circus as Breda and Frank finally met in Dingle – tune in to find out what happened. You can also download the all new and free Documentary on One iPhone and/or Android app. rte.ie/ doconone

The Big 10 The Big Ten is produced especially for Aer Lingus as 98FM’s Claire Solan counts “Ireland’s 10 Biggest Acts”. Join Claire as she recounts the tales behind the biggest musical exports from Ireland and the impact they have had on the music scene globally. For more on Claire and 98FM, check out 98fm.com.

Grace Notes

Homecoming

Grace Notes is presented by Ellen Cranitch of RTÉ lyric fm as she casts the music net wide to capture great performances from the cream of traditional Irish musical talent from around the world. The appeal of traditional music is for many like a story handed down from generation to generation, with each adding their own interpretations. Tune into RTÉ lyric fm every Thursday from 7pm8pm to hear more from Ellen Cranitch and her show Grace Notes.

Homecoming is a nostalgic mix of famous Irish songs selected especially for The Gathering 2013. Whether you live in Ireland, are coming home to visit relatives and friends or discover your Irish roots – these Irish classics are sure to conjure up memories of days gone by. This show represents the cream of the crop of Irish talent from U2, Paddy Reilly, Thin Lizzy to Clannad and The Pogues. Enjoy Homecoming.

Kids

Musical Hits

Jazz

1970s

RTÉ Jr

Broadway Favourites

Jazz Alley

Copeland Classic Hits

Join Emma Power and her friends from “Emma’s Magical Kingdom” on RTÉjr Radio for a fun-packed show to enjoy during your flight! There’s Disney heroes and villains, great Disney music and a little bit of pixie dust added in here and there! RTÉjr Radio is Ireland’s only radio station that’s just for children. You can tune in on your digital radio, online rte. ie/digitalradio/rtejr, Saorview and on the RTÉ Radio Player on your mobile device to hear more.

Broadway Favourites may tempt you to visit a Broadway show whilst in New York or indeed provide inspiration to tread the boards yourself. This show is a fun collection of memorable songs from the world’s most famous Broadway musicals. Tune in to hear hits from Annie Get Your Gun, The Sound of Music, Singin’ In The Rain, Guys and Dolls, Carousel and many more. Enjoy!

Jazz aficionado Donald Helme explores the legacy and music of pianist and Big Band leader, Count Basie and features performances from classic albums and live concerts. In this RTÉ lyric fm special, Helme celebrates Basie’s life and music. Take a stroll down Jazz Alley on Wednesday evenings at 7pm on RTÉ lyric fm with Donald Helme, featuring the best in classic and contemporary jazz, focusing on the curious, quirky, obscure and neglected.

Welcome to the music of Copeland Classic Hits brought to you courtesy of Louis Copeland & Sons, a name synonymous with men’s tailoring in Dublin. Classic Hits is an exciting selection of hits from the 1970s. Louis Copeland is a world renowned master tailor and provider of men’s suits for over 100 years. His stores are located on in Dublin on Capel St, Pembroke St and Wicklow St and beside the IFSC, in Dublin Airport and in Galway. From Armani, Hugo Boss, Paul Smith and more - all leading labels are available in all stores. louiscopeland.com

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Wellbeing Aer Lingus is pleased to bring you some suggestions and light exercises to enhance your comfort and wellbeing during your flight: Wear loose-fitting clothes on board, to all your skin to breathe. Stretch your legs by taking a stroll through the cabin. Circle your ankles clockwise and anti-clockwise. Trace the letters of the alphabet with your foot by moving your ankles. Exercising your feet and legs periodically helps to reduce possible effects of long-duration travel. Avoid sitting or sleeping in the same position for too long and gently stretch

Winter Travel Tips It is important to take time to reduce your risk of getting sick. Various viruses are thought to spread mainly from person to person through coughing, sneezing, or close contact with the flu. Here are some everyday preventative actions you can take to help slow the spread of germs that cause respiratory illness, like flu: Cover your nose and mouth when you cough and sneeze. This will help to prevent the spread of droplets from that contain germs. Wash your hands often with soap and water. If soap and water are not available use an alcohol–based hand rub. Avoid touching your eyes, nose and mouth, this can cause the spread of germs. An important step is to get a flu vaccination, especially for elderly people, people with certain chronic health conditions, and pregnant women.

muscles to improve your circulation. Move your neck and shoulders during long flights to prevent stiffness. Reducing the effects of Jet Lag: Avoid heavy food, alcohol, tea or coffee the day before you travel. When you arrive at your destination, try to adjust your activities to the new time zone. Mild exercise on arrival will help to stimulate your circulation. We wish you an enjoyable experience.

Carry-on baggage Carry-on baggage on Aer Lingus services is restricted to one piece per person, as well as to the weights and measurements, illustrated below.

Passengers with wheelchair requirements Our priority is to always ensure the safety and comfort of all passengers. We encourage passengers who may need assistance to contact us well in advance of their date of travel to enable us to assess their needs.

Maximum weight

10kg 55cm (22ins)

If you are a wheelchair user or require wheelchair assistance when travelling on Aer Lingus services, please advise us of your requirements at least 48 hours in advance, quoting your booking reference number. Our contact details are as follows: email: specialassistance@aerlingus.com Telephone: (Ireland) 0818 365 011 08:00 - 18:00 Mon-Fri & 09:00 - 17:00 Sat & Sun (UK) 0871 718 20 21 (Europe) + 353 1 886 8333 (USA) 516 622 4222

AER LINGUS

AER LINGUS REGIONAL

48cm (19ins)

(22 lbs)

24cm (9ins)

40cm (16ins)

Maximum weight

7kg (15 lbs)

20cm (8ins)

33cm (13ins)

In addition you may choose to carry on one of the following, which must be placed under the seat in front: Small ladies handbag/gents satchel = 25cm (10”) x 33cm (13”) x 20cm (8”) OR Duty Free shopping bag as well as: Baby-changing/food bag Medical/assistive devices EU security rules regarding liquids, gels and aerosols in cabin baggage apply. Flights departing the USA are subject to TSA security rules. Passengers in Row 1, or at an emergency exit, MUST store baggage in an overhead bin.

Safety brief We would like to bring your attention to the following safety and security measures: Please pay attention to any instructions given to you by the cabin crew. Any behaviour towards a fellow passenger or cabin crew that is deemed to be threatening or abusive (including the use of offensive language) is a serious matter. As our priority is the safety of all passengers, it is important not to interrupt the cabin crew while they carry out their duties, and not to interfere with aircraft equipment.

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As a service to passengers, alcohol is served in the airport lounges and on board. In the interests of safety, Aer Lingus may refuse to allow you board if it is thought too much alcohol has been consumed. While the majority of passengers are responsible, there have occasionally been incidents where intoxicated passengers have caused serious safety hazards. Passengers are reminded also that during the flight you may not consume any alcohol brought onto the aircraft by you or any other

passenger. The consumption inflight of Duty Free alcohol purchased from the Sky Shopping service is also prohibited. This measure is, again, necessary in the interests of flight safety. If incidents of this kind occur during a flight, the cabin crew is obliged to contact police on arrival at your final destination. The Aircraft Captain may also divert the flight enroute in order to remove disruptive passengers. Should this happen, Aer Lingus will not

be responsible for getting you home, your ticket money will not be refunded, and – in addition to the authorities awaiting you on landing – you could be heavily fined and/or be liable to a prison sentence. In many cases, other airlines may subsequently refuse to allow you to fly with them. We emphasise that while on board the aircraft our priority is your safety. As always, we wish you a safe and enjoyable flight, as well as a safe onward journey.

RouteMaps EUROPEAN ROUTE NETWORK

Helsinki Stockholm

Aberdeen Glasgow

Kerry

Edinburgh

Copenhagen

Isle of Man Blackpool DUBlIN Manchester London Birmingham HEATHRoW

Hamburg

Amsterdam London Dusseldorf SouTHEND Bristol Bournemouth London GATWICK Brussels Frankfurt

Berlin

Warsaw

Cardiff

Jersey

Paris

Rennes

Stuttgart

Prague

Munich

Vienna

Zurich Geneva Lyon

Bordeaux Bilbao

Santiago de Compostela

Toulouse Perpignan Madrid

Faro

Milan lan

Marseille MALPENSA Nice

Venice Verona Ve Bologna

Bucharest Dubrovnik

Bourgas

Rome

Barcelona

Ibiza

Lisbon

Milan

LINATE

Budapest

Naples

Palma

Corfu Izmir

Alicante

Catania

Malaga

Athens

Agadir Lanzarote Tenerife

Fuerteventura Gran Canaria

To & From Dublin Austria Vienna

Czech Republic Prague

Belgium Brussels

Denmark Copenhagen

Bulgaria Bourgas

Finland Helsinki

Canary Islands Fuerteventura Gran Canaria Lanzarote Tenerife

France Bordeaux Lyon Marseille Nice Paris Perpignan Toulouse ■ Rennes

Croatia Dubrovnik

Germany Berlin Dusseldorf Frankfurt Hamburg Munich Stuttgart Greece Athens Corfu Hungary Budapest Ireland ■ Kerry

Italy Bologna Catania Milan (Linate) Milan (Malpensa) Naples Rome Venice Verona

Poland Warsaw

Santiago de Compostela

Portugal Faro Lisbon

Sweden Stockholm

The Netherlands Amsterdam

Spain Alicante Barcelona Bilbao Ibiza Madrid Malaga Palma

Morocco Agadir

Romania Bucharest

Switzerland Geneva Zurich Turkey Izmir

United Kingdom Birmingham Edinburgh London (Gatwick) London (Heathrow) Jersey Manchester ■ United Kingdom Aberdeen Blackpool Bournemouth Bristol Cardiff Edinburgh Glasgow Isle of Man London Southend

■ Aer Lingus Regional routes operated by Aer Arann For more information on schedules, please visit www.aerlingus.com

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INFLIGHT ROUTE MAPS

EUROPEAN ROUTE NETWORK

Edinburgh

Knock

BELFAST Manchester

Dublin

Birmingham

SHANNON Bristol London Heathrow

CORK

Amsterdam

LONdON GATWICK

Brussels

Jersey

Paris

Rennes

Munich

Geneva

Nice

Barcelona

Rome

Palma Lisbon Faro

Tenerife

Alicante Malaga

Lanzarote Las Palmas

To & From Belfast, Cork, Shannon & Gatwick FROM BELFAST Flights operate from George Best Belfast City Airport

Portugal Faro Spain Malaga Palma United Kingdom London Heathrow London Gatwick

FROM CORK Belgium Brussels Canary Islands Lanzarote Tenerife Las Palmas France Nice Paris ■ Rennes Germany Munich

FROM GATWICK Portugal Faro Lisbon

United Kingdom London Gatwick London Heathrow

Spain Alicante Barcelona Malaga Palma

■ United Kingdom Birmingham Bristol Edinburgh Glasgow Jersey Manchester

Switzerland Geneva

Ireland Belfast Cork Dublin Ireland West Airport (Knock)

FROM SHANNON United Kingdom London Heathrow ■ United Kingdom Birmingham Edinburgh Manchester

FROM KNOCK ■ United Kingdom Birmingham London Gatwick

Portugal Faro

The Netherlands Amsterdam ■ Aer Lingus Regional routes operated by Aer Arann

104 |

USA ROUTE NETWORK

Chicago

Boston New York

Shannon

Dublin

Orlando

To & From Dublin & Shannon FROM DUBLIN

FROM SHANNON

USA Boston Chicago New York Orlando

USA ■ Boston ■ New York (Via New York/Boston with JetBlue)

Chicago Orlando

■ Routes recommence on 11 March FEBRUARY/MARCH 2013

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inFLight ROUTE MAPS

CONNECTING EUROPE, USA & CANADA Edmonton

Calgary Winnipeg Vancouver Seattle Portland OR

Minneapolis Milwaukee Omaha Salt Lake City

Sacramento San Francisco San Jose

Oakland

Tulsa Oklahoma City

Las Vegas

Burbank Long Beach Orange County

Los Angeles Santa Ana San Diego

Phoenix

Detroit

ChiCago

Cleveland Dayton on

Des Moines

Wichita

Denver

Grand Rapids

Indianapolis Cincinnati ncinna Saint Louis uis Louisville Nashville

Dallas (Fort Worth)

Syracuse Rochester Ro

Pittsburgh Pi Burlington on Columbus Washington DuLLES

Lexington Lex Charlotte arlo

Knoxville

Memphis

Toronto Buffalo

Portland ME Boston

Nantucket neW York

Baltimore Greensboro Wa Washington NATIONAL Richmond Ri Raleigh - Durham Ra

Atlanta Charleston

Austin

Houston

New Orleans

San Antonio

Jacksonville Orlando

Tampa Fort Myers

West Palm Beach Fort Lauderdale Miami

Aguadilla

San Juan Ponce Po

FLY BETWEEN THE FOLLOWING CITIES VIA DUBLIN, SHANNON, NEW YORK, BOSTON & CHICAGO new destinations with aer Lingus, in partnership with JetBlue, United airlines and aer arann Getting to the uS from destinations throughout Europe has never been easier. Now uS, Irish and European based customers can book a single low fare reservation between Ireland, Europe and a wide range of continental uS destinations using JFK New York, Boston and Chicago as stopovers. By choosing to fly to the united States via Dublin and Shannon with Aer Lingus, passengers can avail of united States Customs and Immigration Pre-clearance facilities at

Terminal 2, Dublin airport. This facility allows passengers travelling on the majority of uS bound flights to clear uS immigration and customs before departing Dublin and Shannon. Customers arrive in the uS without any further processing requirement allowing for a seamless transfer to their final destination. ■ neW York Connecting with JetBlue at JFk: When you arrive from Dublin or Shannon, simply hop on the Air Train to JetBlue’s Terminal 5 for your domestic connection. Passengers travelling from the uS to Ireland and Europe will be able to check in bags at

the JetBlue domestic departure point and then pick them up again in Shannon or Dublin. From the end of March 2013 aer Lingus will move operations from terminal 4 at John F. kennedy international airport into JetBlue’s acclaimed terminal 5, at JFk. all aer Lingus flights from Dublin and shannon will fly into and out of terminal 5, at JFk. ■ Boston Connecting with JetBlue at Boston Logan international airport: When you arrive from Dublin or Shannon, proceed directly to Terminal C for your JetBlue domestic departure. Passengers travelling from

the uS to Ireland and Europe will be able to check in bags at the JetBlue departure point and then pick them up again in Shannon or Dublin. ■ ChiCago Connecting with United airlines at o’hare Chicago international airport: On arrival at Terminal Five from Dublin or Shannon, make your way to the nearby ATS (Airport Transit System), which runs every four minutes to your uA domestic departure point. Passengers from the uS to Ireland and Europe can check in bags at the uA departure point, then exit security in Chicago O’Hare to take the Airport Transit System to Terminal

Five for the onward Aer Lingus flight, and pick up their bags in Shannon or Dublin. ■ DUBLin Connecting with aer Lingus regional (operated by Aer Arann) at Dublin airport: Aer Lingus’s interline agreement with Aer Arann allows passengers connect to Aer Lingus transatlantic flights via Dublin Airport, where they can through check their luggage directly to their final uS destination.

All routes correct at time of going to press

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FEBRUARY/MARCH 2013

stockholm

edinburgh

Glasgow

Isle of Man Hamburg

Manchester

Dublin Birmingham

Shannon kerry

london

london souTHenD london

cardiff Bristol

Berlin

amsterdam

HeaTHrow

GaTwIck

warsaw

Dusseldorf Brussels Frankfurt

paris Vienna

Munich

Geneva Milan

Malpensa

Milan

Venice

lInaTe

Marseille

santiago De compostela

rome

Barcelona

Madrid

naples

palma alicante Faro

■ Via Dublin with aer lingus                          

alicante amsterdam Barcelona Berlin Birmingham Brussels Dusseldorf edinburgh Faro Frankfurt Geneva Hamburg london (Gatwick) london (Heathrow) Madrid Malaga Manchester Marseille Milan linate Milan Malpensa Munich naples palma paris rome santiago de compostela

   

Malaga

stockholm Venice Vienna warsaw

■ Via Dublin with aer lingus Regional       

Bristol cardiff edinburgh Glasgow Isle of Man london southend kerry

■ Via Shannon with aer lingus  london (Heathrow) ■ Via Shannon with aer lingus Regional    

Manchester Birmingham Bristol edinburgh

■ Via new YoRk with Jetblue                           

aguadilla austin Baltimore Buffalo Burbank Burlington charlotte chicago Denver Fort lauderdale Fort Myers Houston Jacksonville las Vegas long Beach los angeles nantucket new orleans oakland orlando phoenix pittsburg ponce portland Me portland or raleigh-Durham rochester

         

sacramento salt lake city san Diego san Francisco san Jose san Juan seattle syracuse Tampa west palm Beach

■ Via boSton with Jetblue                

Baltimore Buffalo chicago Dallas Fort worth Denver Ford lauderdale Fort Myers Jacksonville las Vegas long Beach los angeles nantucket new orleans oakland orlando phoenix

            

pittsburg portland or raleigh-Durham richmond salt lake city san Diego san Francisco san Jose san Juan seattle Tampa washington (Dulles) washington (national)  west palm Beach

■ Via ChiCago with united to uSa           

atlanta austin charlotte charleston cincinnati chicago cleveland columbus Dallas (Fort worth) Dayton Denver

                             

Des Moines Detroit Fort Myers Grand rapids Greensboro Houston Indianapolis Jacksonville kansas city knoxville las Vegas lexington los angeles louisville Memphis Miami Milwaukee Minneapolis nantucket nashville new orleans oklahoma city omaha orange county phoenix pittsburgh portland or raleigh-Durham rochester sacramento

          

salt lake city san antonio san Diego san Francisco san Jose santa ana seattle st louis Tampa Tulsa wichita

■ Via ChiCago with united to Canada      

calgary edmonton salt lake city Toronto Vancouver winnipeg

■ Aer Lingus Regional routes operated by Aer Arann FEBRUARY/MARCH 2013

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INFLIGht ROUTE MAPS

Middle east and australasia route network

Dublin

Bahrain Abu Dhabi

Muscat

Kuala Lumpur

FROM DUBLIN

VIa aBU DhaBI tO:

Abu Dhabi

Muscat Kuala Lumpur Bahrain Sydney Melbourne

Flights are operated by our codeshare partner, Etihad Airways.

108 |

FEBRUARY/MARCH 2013

Sydney Melbourne

FlightConnections

CONNECTING TO ANOTHER AER LINGUS FLIGHT AT DUBLIN AIRPORT

FLIGHTS ARRIvING AT TERmINAL 2 FLIGhT ConnECTIonS Connecting flight departs Gates 401 - 426 Arrivals Route to Baggage Reclaim from Gates 400s

FLIGhT ConnECTIonS Connecting flight departs Gates 100s - 300s

To Gates 100s 300s

Immigration

Aer Lingus Flight Connections Desk

Immigration

Security Check

Lifts to Gates 401 - 426 Escalator to Gates 401 - 426

Terminal 2 Arrivals

If you already have a boarding card for your connecting flight, and your baggage has been tagged to your final destination, simply follow the sign for Aer Lingus Flight Connections Desk, which you will see on your left hand side as you enter the Immigration Hall. By following this sign, you will proceed to Immigration and Security Check. After clearing these points, check the information screens and proceed to your boarding gate.

If your baggage has not been tagged to your final destination you must clear Immigration, enter the baggage reclaim area, collect your bag, exit through the Customs hall and proceed to Aer Lingus check-in on the departures level. Once you have reached the departures level, check the information screens for your onward flight information, and proceed as directed to the appropriate check-in desk.

If you have any queries, or need further assistance, please go to the Aer Lingus Flight Connections Desk, which is located in the baggage reclaim area in Terminal 2, where our staff will be glad to help.

Please note: eU regulations concerning the carriage of liquids apply to your connecting flights at Dublin airport

Connecting at Heathrow Airport Transferring to an international flight at Heathrow? Please disembark from the rear of the aircraft where a dedicated coach will take you to the Heathrow Flight Connections area and reduce your journey time by an average of 20 minutes. PLEASE DISEMBARk FROM THE BACK OF THE AIRCRAFT IF:

PLEASE DISEMBARk FROM THE FRONT OF THE AIRCRAFT IF:

 You are an international connecting passenger and all your luggage* is checked through to your final destination

    

*Pushchairs checked to London can be collected from the back of the aircraft

London is your final destination Your onward connection is to a domestic Uk airport Your luggage needs to be collected from Heathrow You would like to leave the airport between flights You or someone you are travelling with needs special assistance

FEBRUARY/MARCH 2013

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CHECK- IN ONLINE AND GO STRAIGHT TO THE GATE With online check-in, you can choose your seat and print off your boarding card at home. So when you get to the airport you can go straight to the gate. It’s one of four ways you can check-in with Aer Lingus for free – and one of many ways we take care of you.

Great Care. Great Fare.

Triple Cross Grey Baroque Pearl Necklace by John Rocha Iconic John Rocha signature crosses are given a sophisticated contemporary twist, hanging on a lustrous rope of baroque freshwater pearls. The tones of grey and violet in the pearls play beautifully against the subtle matt and polished sheen of the three sterling silver crosses.

Visionnaire 30ml

Florabotanica by Balenciaga

by Lancôme

Eau de Parfum - 50ml

A sensory paradox between pure and enigmatic, Florabotanica is a futuristic floral perfume that evokes a fantastical secret garden with magnetic and surprising flowers that surpass imagination. Beautiful but dangerous, enchanting but mysterious, charming but mischievous, Florabotanica is an experimental rose that has the power to endlessly charm. Enchanting, mysterious, beautiful.

Much more than a wrinkle corrector, Visionnaire is the first Lancôme advanced skin corrector. Inspired by nature and formulated with a new molecule designed to recreate perfect skin. Skin is visibly transformed, wrinkles, pores and skin imperfections are corrected. Visionnaire was tested on four different complexions with optimal tolerance even on the eye contour.

Sky Shopping

W e’ v e

got it all

Aer Lingus welcomes you to our extensive range of amazing quality items at reduced prices onboard during February/March.

Storm Husky Puppy Storm is a super-soft Husky that will always be ready for a cuddle! A beautiful puppy that will bring a smile to his new owner.

Skagen Black Leather Strap Men’s Watch Genuine style. This men’s watch with a black leather strap connects to a brushed stainless steel case. The shiny black dial features twelve chrome and white luminous numbered indicators, a 24-hour dial and date function.

Please check your Sky Shopping Sk Sh brochure for all prices

Seksy Elegance Women’s Watch Seksy Elegance women’s wrist-wear by Sekonda. This beautiful watch features a white mother-of-pearl dial surrounded by a round stone-set case and bracelet, encrusted with 579 Swarovski® Elements and a fully adjustable bracelet with removable ladder clasps. Guaranteed for 2 years.

FEBRUARY/MARCH 2013

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trip of a lifetime

if peace was a place Unlike his novel Cloud Atlas – now a film – time stands still for David Mitchell on Cork’s Cape Clear.

aving promised to write about a momentous trip for Cara, I find I’m in trouble: I’ve had no sightings of the Virgin Mary on a Spanish pilgrimage, no near-death brush with a grizzly in an Alaskan wasteland and no UFO sighting in the Australian outback. Travel has dented my general ignorance of the world, but each time the Me who comes home is pretty much the same Me who set out. So I am writing about an overnight stay at Cape Clear Island, off Co Cork in the south-west of Ireland during the summer of 1997 – not because my life was changed by it, but because of a promise I made there that would, several years later, nudge my life in a certain direction. My reasons for visiting Cape Clear Island were Quixotic: I’d spent a few months travelling from the Okinawa Islands off the east of the Eurasian land-mass and the idea of finishing up on an island off the west of the continent appealed to 112 |

FEBRUARY/MARCH 2013

my sense of symmetry. My friend and I got off the Skibbereen bus and onto the small ferry at Baltimore and, as soon as the captain had finished his sandwich, we were off. It had been raining solidly since we’d left Cork that morning, but as we skirted Sherkin Island the skies were miraculously clearing, and we moored at Cape Clear under one of those oh-so-rare cloudless Irish afternoons so golden, so silver that you see the blue in the green. We dumped our stuff at the hostel and went exploring. Nothing life-changing happened to us: in fact nothing happened at all, which is how you can always tell that you’ve stumbled upon a toe-hold of Paradise on Earth. I remember narrow lanes with lush grass growing along the middle; sea-birds in giddying numbers; the blades of a wind-turbine catching the sun; a stone tower, apparently transported block by block from a Yeats poem, but which turned into an old lighthouse closer up; two standing stones

Cape escape, above, a rugged vista from the island that’s just a short ferry ride from Baltimore; above, right, author David Mitchell going native back in the 1990s.

from an old legend, the lege smaller with smal a hole in the middle; buying buyi baked beans bake and a loaf of soda-bread from a little shop and noticing the Corkonian suffix “so” at the end of sentences. I remember following a hand-made sign saying “Homemade Ice Creams” down a drive and only afterwards realising that the gentleman who had served us at the door was blind. (Two years later I used his house as a location in my first novel; if anyone reading this knows the owner, please thank him for me. His ice cream was excellent.) I remember dozing by a small tarn and thinking if peace was a place, I’d found it, right there, that day. In the pub that evening I drank my first pint of Murphy’s – Cork’s creamier, peatier answer to Guinness – and heard my first phrases of Irish. My friend and I walked back to the hostel under a night sky dripping with stars that swarmed and multiplied even as you watched. Sure I was a little tanked, but I promised myself that, if I ever had the chance, one day I’d live nearby. It turned out to be one of the promises I kept: a few years later that selfish young backpacker became a dad and we needed somewhere to live. Thanks to that trip to west Cork, my family and I have lived just 40 minutes’ drive from Baltimore harbour since 2003. My point is that you don’t necessarily need to travel to the other end of the world to reach a life-changing experience. Sometimes one is waiting for you at the bottom of the lane, or on a small island, not far away at all. Cloud Atlas (Sceptre, £7.99) is David Mitchell’s third novel. The film version (15A) stars Tom Hanks, Halle Berry and Hugh Grant, and opens in Irish cinemas on February 22.

WHERE LEGEND LIVES

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