Great outdoors | burren
CLIFFS OF MOHER AND DOOLIN pITCH AND puTT BY BIG SMOKE STuDIO
Eat at …
think of our products as a wine producer thinks of the local terroir: what do our salmon eat? Where do they swim? These facts, and our patented smoking process, explain the ng flavour.” We nod, stuffing ourselves; I could devour this salmon forever. Our first day on the Burren ends at Doolin, us the seaside village famous for its traditional music pubs – and at the Aran View Hotel, which has been run by the Linnane family for four generations. From our comfortable hotel room we have sweeping views of the Cliffs of Moher (cliffsofmoher.ie), as well as the Aran Islands of Inis Oírr, Inis Meáin and Inis Mór floating on the Atlantic. We sleep well that night, filled not only with smoked salmon but with sea air and the memory of bright flowers like jewels gleaming on limestone. A sea fog rolls in overnight – but 54 |
december 2013/january 2014
Top, the magnificent Cliffs of Moher. Above, great scenes from the green at Doolin Pitch and Putt, an 18-hole links golf club on the road to Doolin Pier, and, left, Birgitta HedinCurtin of the Burren Smokehouse.
our trip to the visitors’ centre at the Cliffs of Moher is still worthwhile. The Atlantic Edge exhibition in the centre’s echoing central cavern is good to see, while mist obscures all views outside. Afterwards, we return to Doolin, where a treat awaits us. We have been told by friends that we must visit Fabiola’s Patisserie (Doolin Craft Gallery, Ballyvoe) just outside the village (“you’ll see a pair of Citroen 2CVs parked outside”) and, while we are not exactly suffering hunger pangs after our excellent breakfast at the Aran
sPLurGe The Wild Honey above on the edge of Inn, above, Li Lisdoonvarna is a st stand-out option and while it's a lowke place, it holds a key Mi Michelin Bib Gourmand. Ai Aidan McGrath serves bist bistro-style cuisine, with good seafood choices (crab claws, smoked haddo haddock); his wife Kate fronts the operation. Good bar food and lunch option too. There’s also options acco accommodation: double rooms from €80. (Wild Hone Inn, Kincora Road, Honey Lisdo Lisdoonvarna, 065 707 4300; wildho wildhoneyinn.com) MId-PrICe No shortage of choice here. L’arco in Ballyvaughan offers casual, excellent Italian fare in a buzzing environment; special offers and early birds are generally available. (L’Arco, Main Street, Ballyvaughan, 065 708 3900; burrenrestaurant.com) budGet The locally owned doolin Café is one to try. Behind a traditional cottage façade lies a modern restaurant, with excellent, friendly service. Imaginative breakfast (try the homemade baked beans) and lunch menus, always competitively priced, with dinner options (melt-in-themouth beef and good vegetarian options) most evenings. (Doolin Café, Doolin, 065 707 4795; thedoolincafe.com)