Lonely planet Berlin lommekjent by Cappelen Damm AS

lommekjent

BERLIN

BYENS BESTE • LOKALTIPS • HELT ENKELT

Andrea Schulte-Peevers Oversatt av Haakon Larsen

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Denne guiden inneholder: Need to Know 17

Neighbourhoods 19

18 1

Arriving in Berlin

Museumsportal (www.museumsportalberlin.de) Gateway to the city’s museums. Resident Advisor (www.residentadvisor.net) Guide to parties and clubbing.

Advance Planning

Best Transport

Alexanderplatz

Airport-Express train (RB14 or RE7)

Bahnhof Zoologischer Garten

Airport-Express train (RB14 or RE7)

Kreuzberg – Kottbusser Tor

Airport-Express to Alexanderplatz, then U8

Potsdamer Platz

Airport-Express to Friedrichstrasse, then S1, S2 or S25

Up to two weeks Reserve a table at trendy restaurants, especially for weekend dinners.

adult/concession €10/5

7 Berliner Dom Pompous and majestic inside and out, the Berlin Cathedral (p49) is a symbol of Prussian imperial power and blessed with artistic treasures, royal sarcophagi and nice views from the gallery.

sculpture and objects spread across five grand museums.

6 Humboldtforum Opposite Museum Island, the massive Humboldtforum is taking shape. Its facade will mimic the old Prussian city palace, its modern interior will house museums and a library. Details at the HumboldtBox (%0180-503

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Short-Stay Apartments

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176 Survival Guide

Praktiske tips

MUSEUM ISLAND

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Miniloft Berlin (www. miniloft.com) Eight stunning lofts in an architectconverted building, with modern designer furniture and kitchenettes. Brilliant Apartments (www.brilliant-apartments.de) Stylish and modern units with full kitchens and neat historic touches; some have a balcony. T&C Apartments (www. tc-apartments-berlin.de) Huge selection of stylish, hand-picked apartments.

Arriving in Berlin y Top Tip For the best way to get to your accommodation, see p17.

Berlin-Tegel Airport Æ The TXL express bus

connects Tegel to Alexanderplatz (€2.60, tariﬀ AB; 40 minutes) via Hauptbahnhof (central train station) and Unter den Linden every 10 minutes.

Æ Bus X9 goes to Kur-

fürstendamm (€2.60,

with the closest S-Bahn station at Jungfernheide, a stop on the S41/S42 (Ringbahn, or circle line).

buses run every 10 minutes; walking takes ve to 10 minutes.

urenallee 4-6; bKaiserdamm) near the trade fairgrounds on the western city edge.

Æ For all rides you need a tariﬀ ABC transport ticket (€3.20).

Æ The closest U-Bahn station, about 400m north, is served by the handy U2, which runs straight through the city centre.

Æ Taxi rides average €40 and take 40 minutes to an hour.

Æ Taxis cost about €20 to Zoologischer Garten and €25 to Alexanderplatz and take 30 to 45 minutes. A €0.50 surcharge applies to trips from Tegel.

Berlin-Schönefeld Airport Æ Airport-Express trains

make the 30-minute trip to central Berlin twice hourly. Note: these are regular regional trains denoted as RE7 and RB14 in timetables.

Æ The slower S-Bahn S9

runs every 20 minutes and is useful if you’re headed to Friedrichshain (eg Ostkreuz, 30 minutes) or Prenzlauer Berg (eg Schönhauser Allee, 45 minutes).

Æ The train station is

about 400m from the terminals. Free shuttle

Berlin Brandenburg Airport Æ At press time, no opening date had been set for the much-delayed new central airport. Check www.berlin-airport.de for the latest.

Hauptbahnhof Æ Berlin’s central train station is served by buses, trams, the S-Bahn and the U-Bahn. Æ Taxi ranks are located out the north exit (Europaplatz) and south exit (Washingtonplatz). Expect to pay about €14 to Alexanderplatz, €13 to Zoologischer Garten.

ZOB (Central Coach Station) Æ Most coaches arrive at the Zentraler Omnibusbahnhof (ZOB; %030-302 5361; www.iob-berlin.de; Mas-

Æ The nearest S-Bahn station is Messe Süd/ ICC about 200m east and served by the S41/S42 Ringbahn (circle line), handy for Prenzlauer Berg, Friedrichshain and Neukölln.

Æ Taxi rides cost about €14 to the western city centre and €23 to Alexanderplatz.

Getting Around U-Bahn

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laid-back vibe and Friedrichshain great for nightlife explorations. 1 Top Sights East Side Gallery

1 Marheineke Markthalle Thanks to a substantial renovation, the historic Marheineke Markthalle

Viktoriapark

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century charm for bright and modern digs. Its aisles now brim with vendors plying everything from organic sausages to handmade cheeses, artisanal honey and other delicious bounty.

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Platz der Luftbrücke

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400 m 0.18 miles

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3348; www.kleidermarkt.de; Bergmannstrasse 102, 1st fl; h11am-7pm Mon-Fri, noon-7pm Sat; bMehringdamm), a huge loft of used

clothing going back to the 1960s and with a smaller selection of new streetand club-wear threads, all priced by the kilo. Enter via the courtyard.

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3 Chamissoplatz With its ornate townhouses, cobbled streets, old-timey lanterns and even an octagonal pissoir, Chamissoplatz (bPlatz der Luftbrücke) looks virtually unchanged since the late 19th century, which is why this square is often used as a film set. An organic farmers market takes place on Saturdays.

§ # Gneisenaustr 2 #

Monumentenstr

(www.meine-markthalle.de; Marheinekeplatz; h8am-8pm Mon-Fri, 8am-6pm Sat; bGneisenaustrasse) has traded its grungy 19th-

2 Colours Vintage fans love Colours (%030-694

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4 Tempelhofer Park Decomissioned Tempelhof Airport, which so gloriously handled the Berlin Airlift of 1948–49, has been repurposed as a vast untamed urban park

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0 C olumbiadamm 0 50 # 0Platz der 0

(%030-2801 8162; www.tempelhoferfreiheit. de; enter via Oderstrasse, Tempelhofer Damm

Luftbrücke

or Columbiadamm; hsunrise to sunset; bParadestrasse, Boddinstrasse, Leinestrasse).

It’s a wonderfully noncommercial, creative, open-sky space with a beer garden, art installations, urban gardening, barbecue areas and other fun zones. Enter from Columbiadamm.

5 Luftbrückendenkmal

The Berlin Airlift Memorial (Platz der Luftbrücke; bPlatz der Luftbrücke) outside

the former Tempelhof Airport honours those who participated in keeping the city fed and free during the 1948–49 Berlin Blockade. The trio of spikes represents the three air corridors used by the Western Allies, while the plinth bears the names of the 79 people who died in this colossal effort.

6 Viktoriapark Take a break in this rambling park draped over the 66m-high Kreuzberg hill, home to a vineyard, a waterfall and a pompous memorial commemorating Napoleon’s 1815 defeat. In summer, laid-back locals arrive to chill, tan or enjoy beers at Golgatha (%030-785 2453; www.golgatha-berlin.de; Dudenstrasse 48-64; hfrom 9am Apr-Sep; bPlatz der Luftbrücke, dYorckstrasse).

7 Curry 36 Day after day, night after night, a motley crowd – cops, cabbies, queens, office jockeys, savvy tourists etc – wait their turn at Curry 36 (p109), a top Currywurst purveyor that’s been frying ʼem up since 1981.

Tempelhofer Park 4 #

y Best for... Getting around Berlin quickly.

Best Clubs 167

166 Best Clubs

Best Clubs Berlin is Germany’s club capital, the city where techno came of age, the living heart of the European electronic scene and the spiritual home of the lost weekend. With a sound spectrum from minimal techno to st-pumping hip-hop and tango, nding a party to match your mood shouldn’t be a tall order.

At the Door Top clubs charge €12 or €15 for admission, but elsewhere €3 to €10 is typical. Doors can be tough on busy nights at top clubs like Berghain/Panorama Bar, Watergate and the Pearl but, overall, making it past the bouncer is still relatively relaxed. Individual style generally beats high heels and Armani, and if your attitude is right, age rarely matters. As elsewhere, large groups (even mixed ones) have a lower chance of getting in, so split up if you can. Spinmeisters With so many top electro DJs living in Berlin – and others happy to visit – the city is a virtual musical testing lab and line-ups are often amazing. DJ royalty to watch out for includes Ellen Allien, Tama Sumo, Sammy Dee, Ben Klock, Sascha Funke, Marcel Dettmann, Tale of Us, Paul Kalkbrenner, Moderat, Henrik Schwarz, M.A.N.D.Y, Tiefschwarz, Paul van Dyk, Booka Shade, Richie Hawtin and too many more to mention.

y Top Tips Good blogs and websites: www. residentadvisor.com, www.theclubmap. com, www.exberliner. de, www.mitvergnuegen.com, www.zitty. de, www.tip-berlin.de Don’t bother showing up before 1am unless you want to have a conversation with a bored bartender. If you have to queue, be respectful, don’t drink and don’t talk too loudly. Don’t arrive wasted or in big groups.

Left: Kaffee Burger; Above: Watergate

Best Electro

Best Non-Electro

Berghain Hyped but still happening Holy Grail of techno clubs with DJ royalty every weekend. (p124)

Clärchens Ballhaus Hipsters mix it up with grannies for tango and jitterbug in a kitsch-glam 1913 ballroom. (p83)

Watergate Two floors, a stunning riverside setting and plenty of eye candy. (p111)

Kaffee Burger Home of readings, parties, concerts and endless nights of delicious debauchery. (p83)

://about blank Wild, trashy, unpredictable – with an enchanting garden for daytime chilling. (p124)

Pearl Well-heeled weekend warriors press the flesh at this tricked-out party pen. (p95)

Prince Charles Bar-club combo spinning fine electro in a former swimming pool. (p111) Suicide Circus Top techno line-ups on indoor/outdoor floors in former warehouse. (p124)

Worth a Trip On summer week-

ends, Sisyphos (%030-9836 6839; www.sisyphos-berlin. net; Hauptstrasse 15;

hhours vary, usually Fri & Sat Jun-Aug, weather permitting; j21, dOstkreuz), in an old dog-food factory about 2km southeast of S-Bahn station Ostkreuz, turns into a hedonistic party village that proves that Berlin can still ‘do underground’. Climb to the viewing platform, which includes a pond and a fire truck. Electro dominates the turntables on the main floor with its great sound system. Relaxed door.

Berlins beste ... kafeer, barer, underholdning ...

Getting Around 177 tariﬀ AB; 20 minutes) every 10 minutes. Æ The closest U-Bahn station is Jakob-Kaiser-Platz, served from Tegel by bus 109 and X9. From here, the U7 runs to Schöneberg and Kreuzberg. Trips cost €2.60 (tariﬀ AB). Æ Bus X9 connects Tegel

2 2

Str

When to Go Berlin’s notoriously late nights have gotten even later of late. Most clubs and parties don’t kick into high gear until about 2am and some go nonstop from Friday night to Monday morning. Some folks put in a good night’s sleep, then hit the dance floor when other people head for Sunday church.

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MLENNY PHOTOGRAPHY/GETTY IMAGES ©

Originally a riding path linking the city palace with the royal hunting grounds in Tiergarten, Unter den Linden has been Berlin’s showpiece road since the 18th century but is partly torn up thanks to the construction of a new U-Bahn line.

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Linden

Reichstag Dome (p25)

8 Nikolaiviertel With its cobbled lanes and higgledy-piggledy houses, the Nikolai Quarter may look medieval but was actually built to celebrate Berlin’s 750th birthday in 1987.

0707; www.humboldt-box. com; admission €2; h10am-7pm; g100, 200, bHausvogteiplatz). 400 m

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3 Unter den

The sculpture-studded Palace Bridge leads to the twee Spree island whose northern half, Museumsinsel, is a Unesco-recognised

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Lokalkjent Kjennernes Berlin

4 Gendarmenmarkt treasure chest of art,

5 Museum Island

Hagelberger

Kreuzbergstr

Dudenstr

Berlin’s most beautiful square, Gendarmenmarkt (p32) is bookended by domed cathedrals with the famous Konzerthaus (Concert Hall) in between. The surrounding streets are lined with elegant hotels, restaurants and cocktail bars.

The only remaining gate of Berlin’s 18thcentury town wall, the Brandenburg Gate (p26) became an involuntary neighbour of the Berlin Wall during the Cold War. It’s now a cheery symbol of German reunification.

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1 Reichstag

2 Brandenburg Gate

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Friedrichshain (p116) This student-flavoured district is tailor-made for soaking up Berlin's

Jüdisches Museum

Gnei

The 1894 Reichstag (p24) is the historic anchor of Berlin’s federal government quarter. The sparkling glass dome, added during the building’s 1990s revamp, has become a shining beacon of unified Berlin.

Eber tstr

5 Take a Break Cafe Einstein (www.einsteinudl.de; Unter den Linden 42; mains €9-18; h7am-10pm) makes for an arty pit stop. Wrap up the tour at Brauhaus Georgbräu (p51) in the Nikolaiviertel.

Gallery

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Gemäldegalerie Potsdamer Platz

LONELY PLANET/GETTY IMAGES ©

Finish Nikolaiviertel; bAlexanderplatz, XAlexanderplatz, g 100, 200, TXL Length 3.5km; three hours

X U-Bahn To start the itinerary, get oﬀ at Gneisenaustrasse (U7). When you’ve nished, Mehringdamm station (U7) is closest.

Mehringdamm §

Historical Highlights 145

Start Reichstag; XBundestag, g100, TXL

CARSTEN KOALL/GETTY IMAGES ©

Berlin på sitt beste

Kreuzberg (p102) Gritty but cool, Kreuzberg Kreuzberg is a joy to explore on foot, with a vibrant restaurant scene and Berlin's most happening nightlife.

One of Berlin’s most charismatic neighbourhoods, the Bergmannkiez in gentrified western Kreuzberg is named for its main shopping strip, the Bergmannstrasse, which is chock-a-block with peoplewatching cafes and indie shops and boutiques. Nearby Tempelhof Airport saw its finest hour during the 1948–49 Berlin Blockade and is now a vast urban park. Above it all ‘soars’ the Kreuzberg hill, Berlin’s highest natural elevation and a wonderful summertime play zone.

The Bergmannkiez is in the western part of Kreuzberg.

Yorck 7 str #

Høydepunkter Få mest mulig ut av besøket

Best Walks Historical Highlights

An Afternoon in the Bergmannkiez

Getting There

# Yorckstr ¦

Good lunch spots on nearby Potsdamer Platz are Vapiano (p68), Qiu (p68) and the food court in the Potsdamer Platz Arkaden.

Woman with a Pearl Necklace (1662–64) Room 18 No, it’s not the Girl with a Pearl Earring of book and movie fame, but it’s still one of Jan Vermeer’s

2 The Walk

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70 Worth a Trip

5�Take a Break The upstairs cafeteria has a salad bar, precooked meals (around €6) and hot and cold beverages.

Portrait of a Young Lady (p59)

This walk checks off Berlin’s blockbuster landmarks as it cuts right through the historic city centre, Mitte (literally ‘Middle’). This is the birthplace and glamorous heart of Berlin, a high-octane cocktail of culture, architecture and commerce. You’ll follow in the footsteps of kings and soldiers, marvel at grand architecture and stroll cobbled lanes, travel from the Middle Ages to the future and be awed by some of the world’s finest works of art. Bring that camera!

1 1

Potsdamer rary architecture.Platz 1 Top Sights

Local Life An Afternoon in the Bergmannkiez

A ticket to the Gemäldegalerie also gets you same-day admission to the permanent collections of the other Kulturforum museums.

Portrait of Hieronymus Holzschuher (1526) Room 2 Hieronymus Holzschuher was a Nuremberg patrician, a career politician and a strong supporter of the Reformation. He was also a friend of one of the greatest German Renaissance painters, Albrecht Dürer. In this portrait, which shows its sitter at age 57, the artist brilliantly lasers in on Holzschuher’s features with utmost precision, down to the furrows, wrinkles and thinning hair.

144

Tematiske lister over byens høydepunkter: Lett å planlegge!

y�Top Tips

A tour of all 72 rooms covers almost 2km, so allow at least a couple of hours for your visit and wear comfortable shoes. Admission is free to anyone under 18.

Dutch Proverbs (1559) Room 7 In this moralistic yet humorous painting, Dutch Renaissance painter Pieter Bruegel the Elder manages to illustrate more than 100 proverbs and idioms in a single seaside village scene. While some emphasise the absurdity of human behaviour, others unmask its imprudence and sinfulness. Some sayings are still in use today, among them ‘swimming against the tide’ and ‘armed to the teeth’.

gM29, M41, 200, bPotsdamer Platz, dPotsdamer Platz

DEA PICTURE LIBRARY/GETTY IMAGES ©

Det beste du kan se og gjøre, område for område

Matthäikirchplatz 8

# East Side E

Jüdisches

# Museum E

Take advantage of the excellent free audioguide to get the low-down on selected works.

Amor Victorius (1602–03) Room XIV That’s quite a cheeky fellow peering down on viewers, isn’t it? Wearing nothing but a mischievous grin and a pair of black angel wings, with a fistful of arrows, this Amor means business. In this famous painting, Caravaggio shows off his amazing talent at depicting objects with nearphotographic realism achieved by his ingeniously theatrical use of light and shadow.

1 Map p64, A2 www.smb.museum/gg

h10am-6pm Tue, Wed & Fri-Sun, 10am-8pm Thu

ancient civilisations guarded by the soaring TV Tower on socialiststyled Alexanderplatz. 1 Top Sights Pergamonmuseum Neues Museum

Worth a Trip 1 Top Sights Schloss Charlottenburg Schloss & Park Sanssouci

Gemäldegalerie

Don’t Miss

Top Sights Gemäldegalerie When the Picture Gallery, Berlin’s grand survey of Old Masters, opened in its custom-built Kulturforum space in 1998, it marked the happy reunion of an outstanding collection of European paintings separated by the Cold War for half a century. About 1500 works span the arc of artistic vision between the 13th and 18th centuries. Rooms radiating from the football-field-size central foyer brim with key canvases by Rembrandt, Titian, Goya, Botticelli, Holbein, Gainsborough, Canaletto, Hals, Rubens, Vermeer and other heavy hitters.

Museum Island &1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 Alexanderplatz 1 1 1 1 1 (p40) 1 1 1 1 1 1 at 1 1 1 Gawk a pirate's

chest of treasure from Museum Island

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Byens områder Hva du finner hvor

56 Potsdamer Platz

Opplev Berlin

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Museum

Potsdamer Platz (p54) This brand-new quarter, on ground once bisected by the Berlin Wall, is now a showcase of fabulous contempo-

Kurfürstendamm (p86) Nirvana for shopaholics, this grand boulevard r urstendamm spills into idyllic side streets teeming with quaint shops, bustling cafes and restaurants.

Sanssouci ssou (20km) m ‚ Sans

Verdt å vite Tips for en best mulig reise

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# Pergamonmuseum E # Neues E

Memorial # Gemäldegalerie # Potsdamer Platz

Schloss & Park

K Taxi Can be hailed and are fairly inexpensive; avoid during rush hours.

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E E E

Great for exploring neighbourhoods. Designated bike lanes and rental stations are plentiful. Bikes are fine in designated U-Bahn and S-Bahn carriages.

Station) The central coach station is a short walk from both U-Bahn and S-Bahn stations.

Berliner Mauer

U Tram Only operate in the eastern districts. MetroTrams (M1, M2 etc) run 24/7.

Berlin’s central train station is served by buses, trams, and U-Bahn and S-Bahn trains.

J From ZOB (Central Coach

Up to one month Book online timeslot tickets for the Reichstag Dome, the Neues Museum and the Pergamonmuseum.

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gorgeous townhouses, cosy cafes and a fabulous flea market.

# Gedenkstätte E

Reichstag & Government Quarter # Brandenburg Gate # & Pariser Platz # Holocaust

Brandenburg Gate & Pariser Platz Holocaust Memorial

H Cycling

L From Hauptbahnhof

Two to three months Book tickets for the Berliner Philharmonie, the Staatsoper, Sammlung Boros and top-flight events.

with fun shopping, Prenzlauer Berg

1 Top Sights Gedenkstätte Berliner Mauer

r Str

Destination

Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/berlin) Destination information, hotel bookings, traveller forum and more. Visit Berlin (www.visitberlin.de) Official tourist authority info.

Reichstag & Government Quarter

J Bus Slow but useful for sightseeing on the cheap. Most run frequently between 4.30am and 12.30am; half-hourly night buses run in the interim. MetroBuses (eg M1, M19) operate 24/7.

A From Berlin-Schönefeld Airport

Useful Websites

Schloss Charlottenburg #

b S-Bahn Not as frequent as U-Bahn trains but fewer stops and thus useful for longer distances. Same operating hours as the U-Bahn.

Prenzlauer Berg 1 1 (p126) This charismatic neighbourhood entices 1

Scheunenviertel (p72) The maze-like historic Jewish Quarter is fashionista central and also teems with hip bars and restaurants.

Nostizstr

X9/109 to ErnstReuter-Platz, then U8 TXL to Brandenburg Gate, then S1, S2 or S25

Solmsstr

Cab rides €30–50

Kreuzberg – Kottbusser Tor/ Potsdamer Platz

1 Top Sights

Zossene

Reichstag & Unter den Linden (p22) Berlin's historic hub delivers great views, iconic landmarks and the city's most beautiful boulevard.

Tipping Servers 10%, bartenders 5%, taxi drivers 10%, porters €1 to €2 per bag.

Gourmet two-course dinner with wine €70

The most efficient way to travel. Operates 4am to 12.30am and all night Friday, Saturday and public holidays (all lines except the U4 and U55). From Sunday to Thursday, half-hourly night buses take over.

Friesenstr

Plugs & Adaptors Two-pin plugs running at 230V/50Hz. Transformers needed for 110V appliances.

Top end more than €200 Nice apartment or double in top-end hotel from €150

TXL express bus X9 express bus or bus 109

Berlin Neighbourhoods

X U-Bahn

Best Transport

Alexanderplatz

Katzbachstr

Mobile Phones Mobile phones operate on GSM900/1800. Local SIM cards can be used in unlocked European and Australian phones. Most US multiband phones also work in Germany. Time Central European Time (GMT/UTC plus one hour). Daylight savings starts on the last Sunday in March and ends on the last Sunday in October.

Destination

Berlin has an extensive, efficient and fairly reliable public transport system consisting of the U-Bahn (underground/subway), S-Bahn (light rail), buses and trams. One ticket is good for all forms of transport. Day passes are available. For trip planning, see www. bvg.de.

A From Berlin-Tegel Airport Kurfürstendamm

Getting Around

Most international visitors arrive at one of Berlin’s two airports, Tegel or Schönefeld (see www.berlin-airport.de). The Hauptbahnhof (main train station) is in the city centre, the ZOB (central coach station) in the far western city.

se lst r

Money ATMs are widespread. Cash is king in Berlin. ATM cards doubling as debit cards may also be accepted, but credit-card use is less common.

Self-catering or fast food Club cover charge €5–12

Two-course dinner with wine €25–40 Guided tour €10–15

Met hfes

Visas Not required for citizens of the EU, Australia, Canada, Israel, Japan, Switzerland, New Zealand and the USA (among others) for tourist stays of up to three months.

u u

Midrange €80–200 u Private apartment or double €80–120 u u

Mehringdam

Currency Euro (€)

Tempelhofer Damm

Your Daily Budget Budget less than €80 Dorm beds €10–20

For more information, see Survival Guide (p174)

Language German (English widely spoken)

Hjelp til å forstå Berlin – hva du bør gjøre og hvordan

Before You Go

Need to Know

Lynguide til Berlin

Æ U-Bahn lines are designated as U1, U2 etc. Æ Trains operate from 4am until about 12.30am and all night Friday, Saturday and public holidays (all lines except U4 and U55). Æ From Sunday through Thursday, night buses (designated N2, N5 etc) follow the U-Bahn routes between 12.30am and 4am every 30 minutes. Æ For information and trip

planning, see www.bvg.de.

Tickets & Passes Æ The public transport network is operated by BVG (%030-194 49; www.bvg.de). Æ One ticket is good on all forms of public transport. Most trips within Berlin require an AB ticket (€2.60), valid for two hours (interruptions and transfers allowed, round trips not). Trips to Potsdam and Schönefeld Airport require an ABC ticket (€3.60). Æ The short-trip ticket (Kurzstreckentarif; €1.50) is valid for three stops on any U-Bahn or S-Bahn or six stops on any bus or tram. Æ Children aged six to 14 qualify for reduced (ermässigt) rates, while kids

under six travel free.

Æ One-day travel passes (Tageskarte) are valid for unlimited travel on all forms of public transport until 3am the next day. The AB zone is €6.70. Group day passes (Kleingruppenkarte) for up to ve people travelling together cost €16.20. Æ Buy tickets from vending machines in U- or S-Bahn stations and aboard trams, from bus drivers and at station oﬃces and news kiosks sporting the yellow BVG logo. Don’t buy tickets from scammers selling used ones outside stations. Some vending machines accept debit cards. Bus drivers and tram vending machines only take cash. Æ Single tickets, except those bought from bus drivers and in trams, must be stamped before boarding. Getting caught without a valid ticket incurs a €40 ne payable on the spot.

Komme seg rundt som lokalbefolkningen

178 Survival Guide S-Bahn

y Best for... Covering longer distances within Berlin. Æ S-Bahn trains make fewer stops than the U-Bahn. Denoted as S1, S2 etc, they operate from 4am to 12.30am and all night on Friday, Saturday and public holidays. Æ Full details at www.sbahn-berlin.de.

Bus

y Best for... City sightseeing on the cheap. Æ City buses run frequently between 4.30am and 12.30am. Æ Half-hourly night buses take over in the interim. Æ MetroBuses, desig-

nated M19, M41 etc, operate 24/7.

Æ Buses 100 and 200

follow routes linking major sights.

Æ For information, see www.bvg.de.

Tram

y Best for... Covering neighbourhoods not served by other transport. Æ Trams only operate in the eastern districts. Æ Trams designated M1, M2 etc run 24/7.

Essential Information 179 Bicycle

y Best for... Exploring local neighbourhoods. Æ Many hostels and hotels have guest bicycles. Æ Rental stations abound and range from kiosks and petrol stations to bike shops and bike ranks. Æ The websites www. bbbike.de and www. vmz-info.de are handy for route planning. Æ With a Fahrradkarte (bicycle ticket, €1.70), bicycles may be taken aboard designated U-Bahn and S-Bahn carriages (usually the rst and last ones; look for the bicycle logo).

Taxi

taxi and request this rate before the driver has activated the regular meter. Æ Tip about 10%.

Essential Information Business Hours

Discount Cards

y Top Tip The Museumspass Berlin buys admission to the permanent exhibits of about 50 museums on three consecutive opening days. It sells for €24 (concession €12) at Berlin tourist oﬃces and participating museums. Berlin Welcome Card (www.berlin-welcomecard.de) Entitles you to unlimited public transport and up

Æ Cash is king in Berlin; credit cards are not as widely used as in other countries. Always enquire rst.

Public Holidays Neujahrstag (New Year’s Day) 1 January Ostern (Easter; Good Friday, Easter Sunday and Easter Monday) late March/April

Restaurants 11am to 10.30pm

Æ Taxis can be ordered by phone (%030-443 322 or %030-210 202), agged down or picked up at a rank.

linked to international networks like Cirrus, Plus, Star and Maestro. Check with your bank for fees and daily withdrawal limits. Æ The German currency is the euro (€), divided into 100 cents.

Æ Report lost or stolen cards at %116 116.

Bars 6pm to 1am or later Clubs 11pm to 5am or later

Shops 10am to 8pm Mon-Sat

Æ The short-trip rate (Kurzstreckentarif) lets you ride for up to 2km for a mere €4, but only if you ag down a moving

Electricity

y Top Tip Many boutiques and smaller shops don’t open until noon and close at 6pm or 7pm.

y Best for... Late nights and groups sharing the cost.

Æ Flag fall is €3.40, then it’s €1.79 per kilometre up to 7km and €1.28 for each additional kilometre.

to 50% discount on 200 sights, attractions and tours for periods of two, three or ve days. CityTourCard (www. citytourcard.com) Unlimited public transport and a minimum 15% discount at 40 partner sights, attractions and tours, for two, three or ve days.

Christi Himmelfahrt (Ascension Day) 40 days after Easter, always on a Thursday Maifeiertag (May Day) 1 May Pngsten (Whit/ Pentecost Sunday and Monday) May/June Tag der Deutschen Einheit (Unication Day) 3 October Weihnachten (Christmas Day, Boxing Day) 25–26 December

Telephone Æ Berlin’s city code is %030; Germany’s country code is %49. Æ Mobile (cell) phones (Handys in German)

Late-Night & Sunday Shopping 230V/50Hz

Emergency Fire Department (%112) Police (%110)

Money

y Top Tip The easiest way to obtain cash is from an ATM (Geldautomat)

Æ One handy feature of Berlin culture is the Spätkauf (Späti in local vernacular), which are small neighbourhood stores stocked with the basics and open from early evening until 2am or later. Æ Some supermarkets (especially select branches of the Kaiser’s chain) stay open until midnight; a few even through the night. Æ Shops and supermarkets in major train stations (Hauptbahnhof, Ostbahnhof, Friedrichstrasse) are open late and on Sundays. Æ Petrol stations also stock some basic supplies, though usually at inated prices.

Viktig informasjon om åpningstider, etc.

01.03.15 22.11

Lonely Planets Berlin

Spesielt anbefalt: Se etter disse merkene!

Lonely Planets Lommekjentguider er spesiallagd for å ta deg rett til hjertet av byen. 5 Spise Her finner du severdighetene 6 Drikke du bare må få med deg, samt tipsene som gjør besøket 3 Underholdning ekstra minneverdig. Vi har delt byen opp i områder det 7 Shopping er enkelt å manøvrere i, med et brukervennlig kart for hvert av områdene. Lonely Planets Disse symbolene gir deg praktisk ekspertforfatter har sjekket informasjon om de anbefalte stedene: ut alt det beste ved byen: byvandringer, mat, natteliv % Telefonnummer c Familievennlig B h Åpningstider C D # Kjæledyrvennlig og shopping, for å nevne noe. p Parkering Havre g Buss Bd H R de Provence hvisker «Lokalkjent»-sidene a ussn Ikke-røyk þ f Ferge Square mann Caumartin # øret hva somter ekstra Louis ¡ # 38b S-Bahn/T-bane 37 deg i9e i Internett-tilgang te genuint og spennende å XVI aye F W Wi-Fi-tilgang X U-Bahn/T-bane a R des Mathu # þ utforske. R rins RL v Vegetariske retter j Trikk £ # Au Pl Diaghilev 0 0 0 00 ¡ # Her får du selvsagt de på menyen 0 0 0 00 0 17 b d Tog R0 Auber 0 0 0 0 0 E Engelskspråklig meny er Gl0 nødvendige, praktiske tipsene 0 0 0 0 0 Chaussée ú # u0 0 0 0 0 0 £ # 0 c 0 0 0 0 0 k0 for at alt skal gå som smurt d'Antin 0 0 0 0 0 0 27 # þ 0 0 0 0 0 0 underveis: reiserute-forslag, 0 0 0 0 0 0 ý # 40 0 0 0 0 0 Plhvordan J63 Roissybus # 0 komme seg rundt, 0 0 0 0 0 0 Finn hver anbefaling kjapt – på Drikke Ch Plkart 0 0 0 0 0 0 Rouché 0 0 0 0 0 hvor mye driks du bør gi på 35 for hvert område: 9# æ 0 Garnier 0 00 00 00 00 0 s 0 0 ulike steder. alien til 03.00 fre og lør, pianobar 22.00–02.00 # þ verkene, iskremen og de ikke-søte Muséetor,du 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 Opéra 340 es It 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 d m Opéra) tir–tor, til 03.00 fre og lør; delikatessene lages på stedet. Noen av d 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 Boka er din garanti for de B ¡ # # þ0 Parfum 0 0 0 0 00 dem er0 spesialiteter som er oppfunnet 0 0 0 0 0 0 # ý 33 þ R d (brioche dynket i Bar Hemingway 39 R store opplevelsene. 0 0# 00 0 00 0 0 BAR Pl de virkelig her,0 som baba # þrhum

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01.03.15 22.11

Lynguide til Berlin

Høydepunkter........................ 8 Lokalkjent.............................. 12 På fire dager......................... 14 Verdt å vite............................ 16 Kart: byens områder........... 18

Opplev Berlin

Reichstag og Unter den Linden

Museum Island og Alexanderplatz

Potsdamer Platz

Scheunenviertel

Kurfürstendamm

102

Kreuzberg

116

Friedrichshain

126

Prenzlauer Berg

Verdt en avstikker: En aften i Bergmannkiez ...................... 70 Schloss Charlottenburg ....................... 96 En spasertur gjennom Schöneberg ......................................... 100 Snus rundt i Neukölln .......................... 114 Schloss og Park Sanssouci................ 138

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Berlin på sitt beste

143

Byens beste vandringer Historiske høydepunkter..................... 144 Langs Muren.......................................... 146 Rusletur i Tiergarten............................. 148

Praktiske tips

173

Før du drar.......................... 174 Ankomst i Berlin................. 176 Komme seg rundt...............177 Viktig info A–Å.................... 179 Språk................................... 182

Byens beste Museer................................................... 150 Arkitektur............................................... 152 Historiske steder................................... 154 Guidete omvisninger............................ 156 Kunst...................................................... 158 Spisesteder............................................ 160 Shopping................................................ 162 Barer og puber...................................... 164 Natteliv og clubbing.............................. 166 For lesbiske og homofile...................... 168 Musikk og underholdning.................... 170 Stille steder............................................. 171 For barn................................................... 172

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Lynguide til Berlin Høydepunkter........................................................ 8 Lokalkjent .............................................................. 12 På fire dager ......................................................... 14 Verdt å vite ............................................................ 16 Kart: byens områder ........................................... 18

Velkommen til Berlin Berlin er en kultivert metropol som – med lidenskap – tar for seg av livets koldtbord. Energien som gjennomsyrer kafeene, barene og klubbene har solid smitteeffekt. Progressive restauranter og små designerbutikker slåss om tiden din med museer i verdensklasse og storslåtte landemerker som avspeiler byens turbulente historie. Her får du alt og litt ekstra – enten du går for «må-se»-favoritter eller vandrer rundt på måfå.

Strandbar Mitte (s. 52)

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Berlin Høydepunkter Reichstag og Regjeringskvartalet (s. 24)

Brandenburger Tor og Pariser Platz (s. 26)

Utsikten er makeløs fra glasskuppelen på toppen av Riksdagen – det symboltunge praktbygget hvor Forbundsdagen igjen har sete.

Prøyssiske keisere, Napoleon og Hitler har alle marsjert gjennom denne nyklassisistiske byporten – som under den kalde krigen skilte øst fra vest, og som nå er et symbol på det forente Tyskland. PAOLO CORDELLI/GETTY IMAGES © SEAN GALLUP/GETTY IMAGES ©

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Minnes Berlinm

Det er iro turistattra For å fors mysterier ute-og-inn

01.03.15 22.06

Høydepunkter 9 Pergamonmuseet (s. 42) Følg i fotsporene til grekerne, romerne og andre oldtidssamfunn – i et museum som gir innblikk i hvor forbløffende avanserte disse sivilisasjonene kunne være, ikke minst i sin monumentale arkitektur.

Holocaust-minnesmerket (s. 28) Dette gripende minnesmerket over Europas myrdete jøder består av endeløse rekker med kisteliknende betongsokler, tegnet av Peter Eisenman.

Minnesmerket for Berlinmuren (s. 74) Det er ironisk at Berlins største turistattraksjon ikke lenger eksisterer. For å forstå og oppleve murens mysterier, planlegg et besøk i dette ute-og-inne-minnesmerket.

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Neues Museum (s. 46) Den egyptiske dronningen Nefertiti er den mest berømte beboeren i dette høyt rangerte museet – som er nydelig rekonstruert av David Chipperfield og byr på mengder av berømte objekter fra forhistorisk tid.

01.03.15 22.06

Rembrandt er her, Caravaggio også. Botticelli, Rubens, Vermeer – trenger vi å si mer? Gemäldegalerie har så mange europeiske mesterverk at ånden din nok vil lette litt.

Potsdamer Platz (s. 60) Et hypermoderne byområde som etter gjenforeningen er blitt gjenfortolket av Renzo Piano, Helmut Jahn og flere andre stjernearkitekter. Potzdamer Platz er Berlins ekvivalent til Times Square.

Jüdisches Museum (s. 62) Den fascinerende historien om Tysklands jøder er 2000 år gammel. Minst like slående er det metaforiske bildespråket i Daniel Libeskinds sink-kledde museumsbygg.

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Høydepunkter 11 East Side Gallery (s. 118)

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Det lengste bevarte strekket av Berlinmuren er dekorert av mer enn 100 internasjonale kunstnere, som uttrykker sine følelser knyttet til murens kollaps.

Schloss Charlottenburg (s. 96)

De prøyssiske kongelige kunne definitivt kunsten å more seg. Det kan du lære mer om under en omvisning i den fantasifullt dekorerte boligfløyen av palasset, med nærhet til noen overdådig kreerte hager.

Schloss og Park Sanssouci (s. 138) Det er praktisk talt umulig å ikke bli henrykt over dette krinklete slottet som ligger i Potsdam, en liten togtur fra sentrum, og som var Kong Fredrik den Stores visjon.

01.03.15 22.06

Berlin Lokalkjent

Når du har sjekket ut byens høydepunkter, må du oppleve det som får Berlin til å gå rundt. Mangfoldige shoppinggater, karismatiske boligstrøk, kameleonaktige nabolag, heseblesende partyområder og selve antitesen til «kjedelige søndager» er blant de vitale komponentene i berlinernes Berlin.

Bergmannkiez (s. 70) XX Variert shopping XX Urbane oaser

Bergmannkiez er et nabolag som omslutter kaférekkene i Bergmannstrasse, på Kreuzbergs mer stillferdige og borgerlige vestkant. Når du har shoppet fra deg, kan du boltre deg på den store, åpne urbane lekeplassen som inntil 2008 var Tempelhof lufthavn, kontemplere ved minnesmerket over luftbroen til Berlin og nyte en øl i åsen som ga Kreuzberg bydelens navn.

Snus rundt i Neukölln (s. 114) XX En glødende kreativ scene XX Multikulturell barhopping

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Berlins ferskeste it-område er et dynamisk, rastløst dyr som stadig skifter ham, med stor appetitt på mangfold og kreativitet. En utforskning av Neukölln kan være en øyeåpner, og kanskje også gi deg glimt av morgendagens trender. Alt vi kan bidra med er forslag til steder å starte – men gli inn i den lokale gjør-det-selvånden og gjør dine egne oppdagelser.

Søndag i Mauerpark (s. 128) XX Loppemarked og karaoke XX Kaffekultur

Her må vi si oss enige med titusener av lokale og besøkende: Mauerpark er et morsomt sted å tilbringe en søndag,

Tips fra de som kjenner byen best

særlig om sola skinner. Her finnes et fabelaktig loppemarked, en usannsynlig utendørskaraoke, grillfester og band, alt på et sted som i årevis var splittet av Berlinmuren.

innvandre alle fra Sc mange fo

En spasertur gjennom Schöneberg (s. 100)

Det tar et få med se akkurat m steder. Og ligger ma i dette pu området r stasjonen – alle i lyn fra hveran om du sve cocktails: din favori

XX Tett med kafeer

XX Små designersjapper

Schöneberg har ofte vært overskygget av Kurfürstendamm mot vest og Kreuzberg mot øst, men fortjener sin egen spotlight. Dette nabolaget består i stor grad av boliger, men befolkningen er en mangfoldig miks av kontorister i grå dress, feststemte homser, oppstreita hippier og tyrkiske

Barhop (s. 104)

XX Barer for

XX Oppkvikk

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Lokalkjent 13

n til å gå nabolag, lant de

n best

Stamgjester nyter drinker i det fri

innvandrere. Du ser dem alle fra Schönebergs mange fortauskafeer.

Barhopping i Kotti (s. 104) XX Barer for enhver smak

XX Oppkvikkende fastfood

s. 100)

per

fte vært urt vest t øst, egen abolarad av lkningen miks av dress, r, opptyrkiske

Det tar et nanosekund å få med seg at Berlin ikke akkurat mangler skjenkesteder. Og slik vi ser det, ligger mange av de beste i dette pulserende, røffe området rundt U-Bahnstasjonen Kottbusser Tor – alle i lynkort avstand fra hverandre. Uansett om du sverger til øl eller cocktails: Her vil du finne din favorittbule.

03-local-life-pk-NOED.indd 13

inner. elaktig usannaraoke, d, alt på is var muren.

Andre bra steder å oppleve Berlin som lokalbefolkningen: Snack-sentralen Rosenthaler Platz: (s. 83) Haus Schwarzenberg (s. 85) Kantstrasse («Lille Asia»), (s. 92) Kjøpesenteret Bikini Berlin (s. 94) RAW Gelände – alternativ lekegrind (s. 123) Gatemat-torsdag (s. 108) Sol-, bad- og partybåten Badeschiff (s. 111) Kaféscenen i Knaackstrasse (s. 135)

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