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the inflight magazine of air uganda part of the asante issue number 003 augâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;oct 2010

your complimentary copy

A WORLD AWAY FROM THE CITY

Just 15 Kilometres from Kampala and 35 Kilometres from Entebbe, on the shores of lake victoria, rests a resort of ultimate beauty, tranquility and peace. This newest addition to the Serena family is the perfect resort to unwind and escape the stresses of city life.

The central lounge and reception

The rooms and suites

Maisha Mind Body and Spirit Spa

The pool and garden view

LAKE VICTORIA SERENA RE SO RT

PO Box 37761, Kampala, Uganda, Lweza-Kigo road, Off Entebbe road or Call +256 41 7121000, Fax +256 41 7121550 e-mail: lakevictoria@serena.co.ug

EDITORIAL

Welcome Aboard!

n behalf of all my colleagues at Air Uganda, it is my great pleasure to welcome you aboard and to thank you for flying with us today. We are most privileged to have you with us. Our flight crew will do everything humanly possible to make your flight a

pleasant one. As the Airline’s Technical Director, I am responsible for the maintenance of our aircraft and related equipment. I head a team of highly qualified and experienced technical professionals – aircraft maintenance engineers, technicians, maintenance planning engineers, quality assurance inspectors, materials planning or logistics specialists and other essential support staff in various disciplines. Our primary role in the company is to provide safe, reliable and properly maintained three aircraft for our passengers. In order to achieve this, we maintain the highest technical standards of maintenance and engineering, employing modern stateof-the-art technology, processes, practices, equipment and materials. This is in line with our company objective to achieving the highest level of safety and performance. We take pride in this role and we are continually looking for ways to improve “our product”. Our staff have a unique opportunity to execute this commitment to our customers with the service we provide from the ground by ensuring a high standard, safe, reliable and on-time maintenance service. With your continued support, we have worked very hard to achieve a level of reliability and on-time performance that is the envy of many. As you may be aware, air travel is the safest, most sophisticated and most regulated means of travel. The industry is heavily controlled by virtually every government on this planet through a regulatory framework and numerous agencies. These agencies include civil aviation authorities (Uganda Civil Aviation Authority, Federal Aviation Administration (FAA), etc), international regulatory and safety agencies like United Nation’s International Civil Aviation Organization (ICAO), European Aviation Safety Agency (AESA), International Air Transport Administration (IATA) and many others. These organisations mandate the industry standards which all aircraft manufacturers, operators (like us) and other industry players must adhere to and comply with. We maintain and operate our aircraft in accordance with the manufacturer’s requirements and the highest international safety standards. We continuously review our performance by use of rigorous internal and independent external audits. We set, achieve and report against, objectives and targets to demonstrate continual performance improvement. To sustain high competence amongst our staff, we continuously train and deploy competent people and allocate responsibilities and tasks commensurate with individuals’ skills. With our ongoing aircraft fleet modernisation programme, we are geared to enhancing our technical skills and competence to serve our customers even better. Our fleet modernisation programme will result in an improved range of services and more exciting destinations. We aim to be your leading airline choice in East Africa in terms of safety, quality, customer service and punctuality. On behalf of our technical staff and the entire team at Air Uganda, I extend our heartiest gratitude for your continued support that has enabled us to grow and provide you with an improved service. Thank you for flying with us and we look forward to serving you again in the near future.

Ephraim Bagenda Apuuli Technical Director

CONTENTS i s s u e

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WELCOME ABOARD

4 All Change for Kampala – so Much to See and Do

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A review of Kampala’s attractions; why it is still regarded as one of Africa’s most favoured cities.

the inflight magazine of air uganda part of the asante issue number 003 aug–oct 2010

Publishers:

An Exciting Safari Circuit in Africa

Discover the créme de la créme of Africa’s safari circuits.

Editorial Director:

Rukhsana Haq

Editor:

Roger Barnard

Photo © Camerapix Publishers/David Pluth

Editorial Assistant:

Truly Magical Coast Idyll

Burton and Speke – Journey to the Source of the Nile

Senior Designer: Design Assistants:

What is it about the coast that makes you want to return?

Two brave explorers with one quest; to discover the source of the White Nile River. Was mission accomplished?

your complimentary copy

7/21/10 7:38:03 PM

Cover picture: A chimpanzee, one of the many primates found in Kibale Forest.

Chimpanzees – our Primate Relatives

Camerapix Magazines Ltd

Cecilia Gaitho Sam Kimani Charles Kamau Fatima Janmohamed

Production Manager:

Azra Chaudhry, U.K

Production Assistant:

Rose Judah

Editorial Board:

Rukhsana Haq Jenifer B. Musiime Regina Busingye

ASANTE meaning ‘Thank you’ in Kiswahili

To see chimpanzees in the wild, here are few options where sightings can be almost certainly guaranteed.

is published quarterly for Air Uganda by Camerapix Magazines Limited

P.O.Box 45048,00100 GPO Nairobi, Kenya

The Tree of Life

Baobab: the oldest living thing in Africa, standing as a silent witness to history, to the passing of people and seasons, life and death.

Editorial and Advertising Office:

Ssese Islands

Camerapix Magazines (UK) Limited 32 Friars Walk, Southgate, London, N14 5LP

REGULARS

Editorial by Technical Director, Air Uganda Book World

Air Uganda Flight Schedule

News Page

Healthy Travelling

Route Map

50 51

Offices Tips for the Traveller Crossword Puzzle & Sudoku

Fax: +254 (20) 4448818 or 4441021 E-mail: creative@camerapix.co.ke

It is considered as one of the world’s most beautiful places, a tourist destination for those in search of dense forests, exotic birds and monkeys.

Telephone: +254 (20) 4448923/4/5

Tel: +44 (20) 8361 2942

Illustrious Illuminations

From grapes to snakes, weird to wonderful, candles come in all shapes and sizes.

matters may be sent to either of

Buying it or Leaving it?

the above addresses. Printed in Nairobi.

The Dark Side of the Web

Is there more to the internet than meets the eye?

E-mail: camerapixuk@btinternet.com Correspondance on editorial and advertising

To accept or not to accept people’s opinions, that is the question.

Mobile: +44 79411 21458

Malaria – Fresh Hope for an Effective Vaccine

magazine may be reproduced by any means

Here is good news for tropical and sub-tropical Africa, where the disease is seen as a major factor holding back economic development.

without permission in writing from

All photographs by Camerapix unless

The Medicinal Qualities of Ginger

Forming the bases for innumerable dishes, this seasoning is, today, employed on a large scale in almost every country throughout the globe.

the publisher.

otherwise indicated.

Kampala

Photos © Camerapix Publishers/Alina Haq

Text: Kate Nivison

Above: City of Kampala Photos © Camerapix Publishers/David Pluth

Photos © Camerapix Publishers/Alina Haq

founded on

Above: Kampala’s fast growing skyline reflects Uganda’s dynamic growth.

ALL CHANGE FOR KAMPALA

– so Much to See and Do

seven hills. Left: Modern shopping mall, Kampala. Right: Nakasero Market. where the present Lubiri, or Kabaka’s Palace, lake and court of justice is situated. All these usually figure on any city tour itinerary. Kibuli Hill boasts Kampala’s oldest mosque, established even before Christian missionaries chose Namirembe Hill for

The remaining hill of Kampala’s original ‘magnificent seven’ is Kasubi Hill

St. Paul’s Anglican Cathedral. Two more hills were quickly claimed

ampala is unusual among the major cities of Africa in that it can truly claim to

by the Roman Catholic missions – Lubaga Hill for the White

some of the city’s wealthier residential areas are situated in

have been a thriving capital of an important kingdom even before colonial times.

Fathers’ for St. Mary’s Cathedral, and Nsambya Hill where

Nakasero. Makerere is a name known far outside East Africa for

Wisely, Mutesa I, the Kabaka of the Kingdom of Buganda (1856-84), had settled

Nsambya Hospital now stands.

its fine university and other educational facilities. Naturally, it is

on this area of pleasant hills set among game-filled wetlands as a suitable place for the

The remaining hill of Kampala’s original ‘magnificent seven’

on a hill of that name, and well placed for Central Kampala and Nakasero.

Right:

kingly pursuits of holding court and hunting. It already had a name – Kampala – after the

is Kasubi Hill. It is of great significance to the Baganda people

Buganda

great herds of impala antelope that flourished here. But even Mutesa could hardly have

because it houses the Kasubi Tombs complex, dating from 1881,

Parliament and

foreseen what an excellent choice it would turn out to be.

where four of the great Kabakas are buried. Unfortunately, a

lined avenues and green spaces. Lush wetlands where impala

fire earlier this year means some entry restrictions are in place

herds and lions once roamed have been manicured into golf

In spite of all the development, there are still plenty of tree-

statue of the

When the first Europeans, in the form of the British explorers John Hanning Speke

current king,

and James Grant, arrived on the northern shore of Africa’s second largest lake, they

during reconstruction work. It is a World Heritage Site, so its

courses, gardens and parks, and tastefully designed high-rise

Kabaka

were looking for the source of the Nile. In 1862, Mutesa welcomed them to his palace

familiar, steeply-pitched thatched roofs should soon be fully

blocks vie with the hills for a place on the skyline.

Mutebi II.

compound on one of the hills, and from then on, Kampala was on course to become the

restored as one of Kampala’s most enduring cultural symbols.

capital of the whole of Uganda, and is still regarded as one of Africa’s most favoured

With the coming of the Uganda Railway and increased

The favourable climate of the area, however, remains a constant, including welcome breezes (and the occasional

colonial involvement, the city grew rapidly and more hills were

theatrical thunderstorm) from the vast, glittering sheet of Lake

added to the list. Nakasero Hill, with the railway yards along its

Victoria to the south. Kampala sits almost on the equator, but

seemed to be a magic number. Kampala Hill, also known as Old Kampala, became the

southern edge, became the main governmental, financial and

its altitude (1,200 metres/4,000 feet) keeps temperatures

site of Lord Lugard’s colonial fort, since reconstructed elsewhere to make way for the

administrative centre. The Parliament Building, the East African

to a fairly comfortable daytime range of 25-28 ºC. The rainfall

imposing Gaddafi Mosque, the largest in sub-Saharan Africa. To the south is Mengo Hill >>

Development Bank headquarters, most of the best hotels and

pattern is typically equatorial, with two distinct wet seasons. >>

cities. The newcomers were quick to point out that when it came to capitals and hills, seven

4 | air uganda | aug – oct 2010

aug – oct 2010 | air uganda | 5

Kampala

>> The short, but heavier, rains are from February to June, with April definitely the wettest month. The longer, more moderate rains are from August to

our

December. Although rain can fall at any time of year, the driest months are January, which is also the hottest, and July which is a few degrees cooler. Most visitors today arrive by air, at Entebbe International Airport, now much enlarged and renovated to cope with a big increase in traffic as Kampala comes into its own again as a major hub for continental communications. Entebbe itself is a pleasant settlement on a peninsula jutting into Lake Victoria with its own zoo/ animal orphanage and botanical gardens. It is only half an hour’s scenic lakeside drive into the bustling heart of the capital. The usual way of getting around Kampala is by taxi – at least until the promised new public transport bus system gets under way. Those in a hurry or on a tight budget prefer to dodge through the traffic by flagging down a boda-boda, a motorcycle ‘taxi’ which got its name from the owners touting for passengers by yelling “border, border!” at those crossing into Kenya the hard way. Asking for a crash helmet and to see the driver’s license offers some protection. Apart from ‘heading for the hills’ to take in the older cultural, historic and

Above: The Kasubi Tombs house the

religious sites already mentioned, visitors

remains of four former Buganda

with limited time will find plenty to see

kings.

using short taxi hops from the main hotel

Left: Baha’i Temple near Kampala.

districts. Popular drop-offs including the Uganda Museum where it is possible to

Below left: Kibuli Mosque, Kampala’s

try out traditional musical instruments,

oldest mosque.

the Ugandan National Theatre with its

Below: Namirembe Cathedral also known as St. Paul’s Cathedral, is Uganda’s oldest cathedral.

big crafts centre and Nakasero Market. Anyone wanting the full-on African market experience, complete with a traditional medicine section, should try Owino Market, perhaps taking on one of the many available local ‘guides’ to explain what’s what and help with the necessary bargaining. One unexpected pleasure is the relative tranquillity of another of Kampala’s noted religious sites, the Baha’i Temple on

Reservations: + 256 (312) 550 000 + 256 (414) 550 000 res@proteakla.co.ug

Kikaya Hill. Head for the Northern By-Pass where it is easily recognisable by its large >> 6 | air uganda | aug – oct 2010

www.proteahotels.com/kampala

destination: Uganda

Kampala

Text: Philip Briggs

>> green dome. The only one of its kind in Africa, the Baha’i Temple is much appreciated for the beauty and symbolism of its design, both exterior and interior, and its extensive grounds and gardens. Dedicated shoppers, or those in search of a bite to eat, will

An Exciting Safari Circuit in Africa

find air-conditioned comfort in the various large shopping malls that are now as much a feature of Kampala as any major city. Conveniently situated between two golf courses near Nakasero’s

The single most exciting safari circuit in Africa? Well, a few obvious candidates spring to mind. But a

hotel district is the up-market Garden City Centre, ideal for those

creeping leftfield contender – one that might well get my final vote – is the road loop through western

who want quality groceries, designer clothing and other luxury

Uganda’s Murchison Falls, Kibale Forest, Queen Elizabeth, Bwindi and Lake Mburo National Parks. True,

items under one roof, combined with a good range of places to

when it comes to sheer volumes of plains game, Uganda would register some distance below neighbouring

eat. Further out in the western suburbs is Kasumba Square Mall

Tanzania or Kenya. But equally, its rich mosaic of rainforest, savannah, montane and wetland habitats does

for good value and lots of atmosphere, while Lugogo Shopping

harbour an almost peerless diversity of large fauna. Where else, over the space of a few days, could one

Mall is known for locally produced and packaged traditional foods.

hike to within a few metres of gorillas and chimpanzees, navigate tropical waterways bustling with hippo

With around 1.5 million people to feed and so much

and elephant, explore open plains grazed by thousands of kob antelope and attendant prides of well-fed

international involvement, Kampala has a huge choice of

lions, and tick a host of iconic African birds ranging from the flamboyant great blue turaco to the uniquely

restaurants to satisfy every purse and palate, from street stalls

peculiar shoebill? The answer, quite simply, is nowhere else – in Uganda, and in Uganda only.

to up-market hotel food and restaurants from almost every continent. Curry houses are especially popular, and fresh lake fish appears on many menus. Uganda itself is often advertised as the Pearl of Africa, under the ‘big four’ headings of wildlife, safaris, beach and culture. In fact, even if time is limited to only a few days for business in Kampala, it’s possible to catch all four of these within a one-day range of the city. There are now many local companies, large and small, offering visitors a good choice of half-day or one-day tours that will surprise by their variety of what there is to see and do. Half-day city tours are a good introduction to Kampala’s sights and sounds. Out-of-town half-day tours can go as far as a trip by speedboat on Lake Victoria to Ngamba Chimpanzee Island which won the 2009 Virgin Holidays Award for responsible tourism. If you can spare a full day, taking a more traditional boat to this famous primate sanctuary allows more time to see other wildlife on the lake as well, and possibly a (crocodile-free) dip. Another popular full-day destination is Budango Forest Reserve where trekking to see chimpanzees in the wild is a feature. The Reserve is now managed by the Jane Goodall Institute, and overnight stays are also possible. For any place where contact with chimpanzees is likely, strict health precautions are in force and it’s as well to check beforehand what vaccination/inoculation certificates are required.

Above: The main building of Makerere University in Kampala, one of East Africa’s finest institutes of higher learning. Right: Monument marking the 100th anniversary of Kampala’s founding stands in the city’s centenary park.

Jinja, only 80 kilometres from Kampala, where the world’s longest river leaves Lake Victoria on its journey to the town the road crosses the Nile by way of the Owen Falls Dam.

A Fortnight in Uganda

Not far downstream are the lovely Bujagali Falls and stretches

The following sites, listed in clockwise order,

of rapids that tempt white-water rafters, kayakers and others in

can all be included in a two-week organised or

search of an adrenaline rush to battle the cascading waters.

self-drive tour of western Uganda emanating

Back in Kampala, there’s plenty of nightlife for those with

Photos © Camerapix Publishers/David Pluth

Mediterranean Sea, is another must-do day trip. Nearing the

from Kampala:

energy still to burn. A lot of it is centred round the big hotels and restaurants, but every district has its favourite bars and watering holes. It’s a city with something of a reputation when it comes to drinking and partying, and casinos are a feature of some of the larger hotels.

8 | air uganda | aug – oct 2010

aug – oct 2010 | air uganda | 9

destination: Uganda

Lake Mburo National Park Mburo’s status as the last Ugandan stronghold for the impala is unlikely to have any southern African visitor salivating in anticipation. But the park does protect a fabulously authentic chunk of acacia woodland, and what game still remains – most prominently buffalo, warthog, eland, zebra and impala – is prolific. Boat trips on the lake are a treat, and the woodland birding – including species found nowhere else in Uganda, such as red-faced barbet and bare-faced go-away bird – makes for a welcome change from craning necks toward the forest canopy. It is ideally placed for an overnight stop between Kampala and Bwindi.

>> Entebbe Botanical Gardens The botanical garden in Entebbe doesn’t compare to any of a dozen forest reserves scattered elsewhere in Uganda. But, situated only three kilometres from the country’s only international airport, it is highly accessible, and the nominal

Lake Bunyonyi

entrance fee buys some peerless urban birdwatching – great

Situated in the southwestern highlands, Lake

blue and Ross’s turaco, broad-billed roller, black-and-white

Bunyonyi is a 30-kilometre-long blocked river

casqued hornbill, swamp flycatcher, yellow-throated leaflove,

system whose irregular shore follows the

red-chested sunbird and half-a-dozen weavers not found in

contours of the steep hills that enclose it. Better

southern Africa – as well as semi-habituated troops of the

known as a chill-out spot than for scintillating

dashing black-and-white colobus monkey.

wildlife viewing, Bunyonyi – which translates as place of little birds – does support a varied avifauna, and the normally elusive yellowspotted otter is remarkably common around the

Rafting the Nile

lakeshore and island resorts. Lake Bunyonyi is a

The series of Grade Five rapids along the Nile downstream of its

great place to unwind for a day or two.

source at Jinja is one of the most thrilling rafting destinations in the world, and – with no fatalities recorded to date – far less dangerous than the Zambezi Gorge. Three rafting operators run day excursions out of Jinja and Kampala all year through, while the recent introduction of quad-biking, kayaking and bungyjumping has made the entry point at Bujagali Falls a serious rival to the more established southerly ‘adrenaline capitals’ of Victoria Falls and Cape Town.

Bwindi National Park For most visitors, Gorilla tracking in Bwindi (or nearby Mgahinga) will rank as the highlight of a trip to Uganda. But the forest-swathed hills of Bwindi harbour almost 100 mammal species in total, including rainforest specialists such as chimpanzee, L’Hoest’s monkey and the outsized yellow-backed duiker, and one of the most extensive butterfly checklists in the world. More than 350 bird species are present and the short road leading uphill from the park headquarters is one of the best. Forest birding sites in Uganda – up to 50 species might be seen over three to four hours, including several of the park’s 23 Albertine Rift endemics, bar-tailed trogon and black bee-eater. Deeper into the park, Mubwindi Swamp is the only non-Congolese locality for the eagerly sought African green broadbill. >> 10 | air uganda | aug – oct 2010

aug – oct 2010 | air uganda | 11

destination: Uganda

Kasenda Crater Lakes >> Queen Elizabeth National Park (QENP)

Whether explored in their own right or used as

Savannah, forest and open water converge in

a base from which to visit Kibale Forest, the 30-

QENP to create a riot of biodiversity attested to

odd crater lakes dotted around the small town

by a bird checklist exceeding 600 species – in an

of Kasenda form one of the most scenic parts

area only one-tenth the size of the Kruger Park!

of Uganda, spectacularly so when the Ruwenzori

A profusion of waterbirds, hippo, elephant and

peaks emerge from their customary veil of clouds.

buffalo are likely to be seen from boat trips on

The area offers much to hikers, particularly those

the Kazinga Channel, while the fringing woodland

on a restricted budget, while relict forest patches

often throws up leopard and giant forest hog. The

such as the small Lake Nkuruba Nature Sanctuary

Maramagambo Forest harbours a wide variety of

(another estimable community-run project) harbour

forest monkeys, birds and butterflies, Chambura

black-and-white colobus, great blue and Ross’s

Gorge is an excellent site for chimp tracking, and

turaco, African grey parrot, splendid starling and

the remote Ishasha Plains are known for tree-

various other forest primates and birds.

climbing lions. There are crater lakes tinged pink by thousands of flamingos, as well as Uganda’s only Ramsar Wetland Site – home to shoebill, sitatunga and other papyrus specialists – all set

Murchison Falls National Park (MFNP)

below the craggy glacial peaks of the Ruwenzoris.

Uganda’s largest conservation area is named for the

No other conservation area quite so encapsulates

impressive waterfall that explodes in a cacophonous

the full scenic and faunal diversity of East Africa.

roar of foaming white-water through a narrow cleft in the Rift Valley escarpment. Boat trips on the Nile below the falls are a perennial delight, for the spectacular densities of hippos and waterbirds, and seriously scary crocodiles. The palm-studded northern grassland harbours thousands of kob, a burgeoning lion population, herds of 50-plus Rothschild’s giraffe, plenty of elephant and buffalo, smaller herds of oribi

Kibale Forest National Park

and Jackson’s hartebeest, and some noteworthy birds

Kibale Forest is best known for its chimpanzees

including Abyssinian ground hornbill, black-headed

– the most easily located and fully habituated

lapwing and Denham’s bustard. Chimp tracking in the

community in Uganda. The main road through the

Budongo Forest can be undertaken as a day excursion

forest is an excellent place to look for other diurnal

from MFNP.

primates – grey-cheeked mangabey, red colobus, black-and-white colobus – and it’s not unusual to see 20 different types of butterfly fluttering around one puddle. A guided walk through the adjacent Bigodi Wetland Sanctuary, an exemplary community-run project, provides a great introduction to Uganda’s

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forest fauna. I’ve regularly seen five different primate

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species here, as well as up to 50 forest and swamp birds including papyrus gonolek, red-headed bluebill and yellow-billed barbet.

1. Staff Outsourcing. 2. Staff Recruitment. 3. Training and Personal development. 4. In-depth staff background checks.

12 | air uganda | aug – oct 2010

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may2010 – july 2010 air uganda |1 aug – oct | air| uganda | 13

destination: East African Coast

Photo © Camerapix Publishers/Karl Ammann

destination: East African Coast

Truly Magical Coast Idyll

Photos © Camerapix

Asante reports.

here are about 483 kilometres (300 metres) of coastline

for marlin, saltfish, wahoo, tunny, bonito and falusi. For snorkellers

Left:

between the Somali and Tanzanian borders: between

and skin divers, Kenya’s reefs and lagoons are listed as a national

The Shoebill

headlands of black cliffs, you can find perhaps a 24

1. Narrow streets of Lamu town. 2. A windsurfer finds his paradise on the Indian Ocean.

heritage, fully protected as marine national parks. In one day, in

is a very large

kilometres (15 miles) sweep of a bay or small lagoon, always palm

one small coral garden the display may range from the tiny zebra,

stork-like bird. It

or casuarina-fringed with white, fine-grained sand beaches. The

parrot, scorpion, butterfly and bat fish to huge Tewa – rock cod or

derives its name

inshore waters are polished blues and greens and fully sheltered by

groupers – weighing upwards of 240 kilogrammes (but for all their

from its massive

a parallel reef of coral garden.

weight, shy, harmless creatures of the deep).

shoe-shaped bill.

The Kenya beach holiday offers a range from castaway to

Shimoni, close to Tanzania, is the most popular fishing centre

five-star comfort, anything from desert island camp Waikiki-style

and also provides excursions to the nearby marine national park.

hotels. Deep-sea fishing, water-sports, and sunbathing are all

Closer to Mombasa, Diani is perhaps Kenya’s most popular resort,

available.

lined with impressive hotels and a magnificent beach.

The climate is benign. Although the sun shines almost every day

Periplus of the Erythraean Sea and marked on second century

by a cooling breeze. Shade temperatures rarely rise above 25

maps by Ptolemy, the Egyptian astronomer and cartographer.

degrees centigrade.

Islam is the culture and faith which has shaped this island port for

Water skiing is possible, watching out for hidden coral heads at low tide. So is sailing or wind surfing or deep sea fishing off Malindi 14 | air uganda | aug – oct 2010

4 & 9. Diving in Indian Ocean waters reveals a myriad of

5. Gedi ruins – the mysterious ‘lost city’. 6. Veiled beauty in the all enveloping bui-bui traditional Islamic dress. 7. Tourists stroll along one of the coastal beaches. Sun,

1,000 years. For centuries it was part of the Sultanate of Zanzibar and, before that, part of a loose federation of independent Islamic >>

3. Sundown over the Kenya Coast.

beautiful fish and spectacular coral formations.

Mombasa, Kenya’s most ancient city was first mentioned in the

of the year, the subtropical heat and humidity are usually tempered

sea and sand – part of the Kenya magic.

aug – oct 2010 | air uganda | 15

Photo © Camerapix publishers/Karl Ammann

destination: East African Coast

GOLF COURSE HOTEL KAMPALA

Driver Training for harsh environments

www.OnCourse4wd.com

tech @ OnCourse4wd.com +256 772 22 11 07

Kenya’s reefs and lagoons are listed as a national heritage, fully protected as marine national parks

>> states no bigger than the towns in which the citizens lived – Gedi, Pate, Lamu, Manda and Zanzibar. Mombasa was the prize; its sheltered creeks on either side provided deep and safe anchorages and, for its merchants, the prospects of profitable trading. The Portuguese navigator Vasco da Gama was chased away in the 15th century but others of his countrymen returned to take the town and build the massive Fort Jesus. Later, in the 19th century, Britain’s anti-slavery squadrons brought a new form of imperialism. Each influence has grafted something onto the physical

8. Colourful dhows moored along the sea wall. 10. Ivory Siwa on Lamu is an outstanding

Today, a modern bridge links the island with the north mainland and the tourist resorts beyond. These include Nyali, Bamburi and Shanzu beaches, Mtwapa Creek, Kikambala, Kilifi Creek – a magnificent inland harbour flanked by high cliffs – Watamu and Turtle Bay, Malindi and Lamu Archipelago. In the vicinity are lost Arabian cities like Gedi and Shanga, towns which were suddenly abandoned (for what reason nobody really knows) sometimes around the 16th century. Lamu is a living anachronism – a thousand-year-old island port

appearance of the town, now an appealing mixture of African,

piece of islamic

embalmed in antiquity. The sense of the past is tangible, endowing

Swahili, Islamic, Victorian English and other imported architectural

craftsmanship.

the town with a unique charm. In the narrow streets, sloe-eyed

styles. Hindu temples (one with spires tipped with 40 kilogrammes

women are clad in black veils (bui-buis) and motes of sun filter

of solid gold glittering in the sun above two doors of solid silver) are

through the gloom as carved doors open and close to reveal a

built alongside Muslim mosques. Christian churches have multiplied

tantalizing glimpse of a patio garden.

on the rock of the first cathedral near the law Courts and the old colonial administration offices. The town has rapidly become city, but beneath the facade of

Beyond this, north of Lamu, is a partially excavated treasure of lost Islamic civilisations – ports and villages which flourished when Europe was just emerging from its dark age. The ruins remain,

progress, Mombasa’s traditional base remains. For example,

adding to the mystique of what is inevitably an unforgettable holiday

Arabian dhows still call at the Old Harbour.

on the Kenya coast.

16 | air uganda | aug – oct 2010

history

In the ensuing fight, Stroyan was killed and Burton and Speke

BURTON & SPEKE

were both severely wounded. Speke was captured and stabbed several times with spears before he was able to free himself and

Journey to the Source of the Nile

escape. Burton was impaled with a javelin, the point entering one cheek and exiting the other. This wound left him with a notable

by Rosemary Holthusen.

scar that can be easily seen on portraits and photographs. He was forced to make his escape with the weapon still transfixed through his head. The expedition was only saved from destruction because a friendly Arab boatman took the survivors back to Aden. Although Burton, in his report to the RGS criticised Speke he nonetheless annexed Speke’s notes on the botany and zoology of the area to his report. Speke felt humiliated and ill-used; their relationship was already an explosive, psychic mixture. Speke, as fair and charming as Burton was saturnine and Photos courtesy: Peter Holthusen

sarcastic, was born of a Devon family whose origins went back to the Norman Conquest of 1066. He was a fanatic about personal Speke seemed almost as suitable: He joined the Army of the East India Company in 1844, where he later served under Field Marshal, Sir Colin Campbell during the First Anglo-Sikh War. He was 29 and had considerable experience in collecting botanical and zoological specimens during his leave in the Himalayas and was also an accomplished surveyor. Although appearing

hroughout recorded history there have been times when the urge to explore previously unknown parts of the world has captured the imagination of whole races, to the

surprise and often consternation of those on the receiving end of these expeditions. Alexander the Great, Henry the Navigator, Christopher Columbus – each led expeditions which were to have consequences that resonated through the ages. In the middle of the 19th century, the river Nile, one of the greatest remaining challenges for explorers, still had its origins behind a barrier of fetid swamps, fatal diseases and seemingly ferocious tribesmen. Its mystery was compounded by reports of fabulous lakes and mountains. This challenge fired the imagination of The Royal Geographical Society (RGS), who had a particular interest in determining the source of the Nile. Thus, in a series of expeditions between

Above: On 3 August 1858, from Isamilo Hill near Jinja, Speke first saw the main waters of the Sea of Ukewere (Lake Victoria), which he afterwards proved to be the source of the Nile.

In the mid-1850’s, the mysteries of the Niger and the Blue Nile solved, scientific curiosity reverted to the next of Africa’s great rivers, the White Nile. European missionaries and traders had ascended it as far as the border of Uganda, but beyond here its course was unknown. In 1856, there was a growing feeling within the RGS that the time was at hand to settle the matter. Entered Lieutenant Richard Francis Burton of the East India Company’s Bombay Light Infantry, a swarthy, moustached man of 35 who offered to take an expedition into the region. Burton was already famous for a number of illustrious expeditions. He had a remarkable intellect and combined broad-ranging scholarship with eccentric, libertine behaviour. While in India, he often donned native garb, perfecting his ability to pass as a ‘local’. It was this ability to shed his British persona that enabled him, in 1853, to travel an equally perilous

1856 and 1877, several British explorers were sent to unravel

journey to Makkah and Madinah disguised as a Muslim Pathan

the mystery of the source of the Nile. This river, the longest

(a native of north-west Pakistan or Afghanistan) and, the

in the world, flowed through the desert, yet brought life in its

following year, to enter the ‘forbidden city’ of Harar (in modern

floodwater every year. Where did all this water come from?

Ethiopia). However, in his later African journeys, he played the

The sudd – Arabic word for obstacle – a huge, papyrus-clogged

role of English gentleman to the hilt.

swamp, thwarted earlier attempts to follow the river upstream. Until 1856 little was known of the source of the Nile, the

The Society accepted his offer, sufficient funds were raised, and the East India Company granted him leave. Burton selected

great river that was the cradle of western civilisation, which had

as his companion, fellow Indian army officer Lieutenant John

been known to the Greek geographer Ptolemy, in AD 150. He

Hanning Speke. These two individuals seemed perfectly suited

had reported that the Nile originated in two great lakes in central

to the task. Burton was already known for his bold exploits and

Africa about 10 degrees south of the Equator, and flanked by the

although he had blighted his prospects in the Indian Service

peaks of the “Mountains of the Moon”. This explanation had been

by his bluntness, he was not yet the frighteningly controversial

incorporated in a map made by an Arab geographer about

figure he was to become. His linguistic abilities and his evident

AD 1100.

valour and resourcefulness made him an obvious leader.

18 | air uganda | aug – oct 2010

complimentary, the two personalities were in fact utterly incompatible and the violent confrontations between Burton and Speke that followed saw armchair geographers taking bitterly opposed sides. Other explorers were involved in the debate, including David Livingstone, who died whilst trying to clear up the Burton or Speke Nile controversy; Henry Morton Stanley who found his vocation in Africa; James Augustus Grant who joined Speke’s second expedition to Africa; and Samuel Baker because he went to verify Speke’s theories.Burton was an enigmatic character, and had developed a taste for wine, women, fighting, gambling, mysticism, daredevilry and languages. They were the precious tools with which to satisfy his insatiable curiosity about exotic peoples. In India, Burton’s rapid mastering of Persian, Afghan, Hindi, Urdu, and Arabic won him the friendship of Sir Charles Napier, the British general and Commander-in-Chief, famous for conquering the Sindh (in present day Pakistan), to whom he rendered superlative service as an intelligence officer. He earned the animosity of his superiors in the East India Company when he told them that they were losing touch with their subjects and made an accurate prediction of the approximate date of The

Above: Some of the African porters who accompanied Burton and Speke on their historic expedition to find the source of the Nile. Right: An early illustration depicting John Hanning Speke restraining the

fitness, dominated by his mother and sisters, awkward in the company of women and had a narcissistic tinge to his make-up. He joined the Army of the East India Company at the age of 17, and his duties took him to the Punjab. In India Speke had the good fortune to meet James Grant, the Scot who was to play an important role in the future. Grant had been commissioned in the East India Company’s Army in 1846, and served during the Anglo-Sikh Wars and Mutiny of 1857. Grant was loyal, obedient, and fully capable of carrying out his duties independently if necessary, but also willing to follow an order to the letter. In this friendship however, Speke was the impetuous leader, while Grant was the cautious, admiring follower. Despite his blundering during the earlier expedition, Speke was invited by Burton to join his official “Great Lakes” expedition to central Africa in 1856. Burton later said that he took Speke to “give him another chance”. Speke was however determined to be associated with the Nile discoveries. >>

hand of Mutesa I, the reigning Kabaka (King) of Buganda, who was about to strike a tribeswoman accused of theft.

Indian Rebellion of 1857, which began as a mutiny of sepoys of the East India Company’s army on 10 May 1857, in the town of Meerut. In 1854 an earlier expedition led by Burton to penetrate central Africa from the Somali coast led to disaster. He was accompanied by Speke and two fellow officers, Lieutenant G.E. Herne and Lieutenant William Stroyan and a number of Africans employed as porters. Shortly after they met on the coast, their party was attacked by a group of Somali warriors.

aug – oct 2010 | air uganda | 19

history

In 1857, the two partners embarked at Bombay and landed at Zanzibar. They made hasty preparations for the march inland from Bagamoyo (in modern Tanzania). With help from the British Consul, Colonel Atkins Hamerton, Burton and Speke assembled their party which included 36 African porters, 10 gun-carrying slaves, four drivers and a posse of Baluchi soldiers to protect them. There was much additional equipment required including ammunition, medicines, stores and an iron boat in seven sections intended to enable them to explore the great lake. As a consequence a second caravan was organised to carry the additional stores. On 25 June 1857, the march began. In the early stages of the expedition Burton overheard the Hindus telling each other that he would never get as far as Ugogo (not a third of the distance) whereupon they would seize all his belongings; he then had his moment of despair. The caravan proved to be only nominally under the command of its European leaders. The column moved at its own pace; indiscipline was the rule, theft endemic, and desertions began as soon as the men marched from the coast. Within three weeks they had covered 190 kilometres (118 miles) with more than 966 kilometres (600 miles) ahead of them, both men were already so sick they often had to be carried. Smallpox was rife and the way was well marked by the bones of slaves who had died of this and other diseases. When they finally reached Morogoro they were, said Burton “physically and morally incapacitated”. At this point the Baluchi soldiers mutinied and had to be quelled by an emaciated Burton who faced them down with a revolver in his hand. Throughout the journey, and despite his ill-health, Burton continued his ethnological studies, which were so uncomplimentary to the black people that they are unprintable today. By the time they reached Ugogo, half the supplies intended to last a year had been consumed or stolen. This was very serious because the local tax, called hongo payable to chieftains over whose land they passed was rising progressively and had to be paid out of the supplies they carried. The traveller’s health improved as they reached the savannah country. Tattered and emaciated, the two Englishmen walked into Kazeh on 7 November 1857, Speke was almost blind with opthalmia. There they learned that there was not one but three great lakes or seas: the Sea of Niassa to the south; the Sea of Ujiji (Lake Tanganyika) just ahead, and the Sea of Ukewere (Lake Victoria) to the north. On the morning of 14 December 1857 they were in sight of Lake Tanganyika and despite their incapacity and disabilities they attempted to explore the lake in a canoe, much too small a craft for such a large body of water. The most urgent task was to find what outlets there were from the lake, and thus to decide whether the Nile had its origins here. But they were unable to reach the northern end of the lake. However, the natives assured them that at the northern end there was a river, the Ruzizi, which flowed into and not out of the lake, meaning it could not be the source of the Nile.

20 | air uganda | aug – oct 2010

Above: An engraving of Speke and James Augustus Grant addressing the members of the Royal Geographical Society after their triumphant return to London in 1863.

Their position now seemed so desperate that Burton decided to return to Zanzibar with news of the discoveries thus far made. Speke later claimed that he suggested that they should march north from Ujiji, to the Sea of Ukewere but Burton felt unable to do so, even though the relief caravan had arrived. It had been badly plundered en route and the goods it brought quite insufficient to enable the party to barter its way onwards. Had a further journey been possible, Burton would have discovered that Lake Tanganyika was 644 kilometres (400 miles) long. As Burton continued with his ethnological investigations Speke was furious by the time being wasted, so he persuaded Burton to permit him to take a small party on a three week trek to the reputed ‘Sea’ to the north. Speke made a momentous foray northwards, and three weeks later, on 3 August 1858, beheld the huge expanse of the Sea of Ukewere, which he decided in a flash of inspiration was at last the Ptolemaic source of the Nile. He then hurried back to Burton to announce the great discoveries. Burton at first received the information coldly, then whilst acknowledging that Speke had found ‘a’ lake, demanded what possible proof he had that it was in fact ‘the’ lake. And so began an historic quarrel, Speke arguing – without foundation, but accurately – that Lake Victoria was the birthplace of the Nile, and Burton countering that it was Lake Tanganyika. After convalescing, Burton returned to England to find that Speke had already presented his version to Sir Roderick Murchison, the President of the RGS. To Burton’s chagrin, the RGS favoured Speke’s conclusions, and in 1860 Speke was sent back with James Grant for further exploration. Over the next three years, the two made many discoveries, including the Ripon Falls, where the Nile flows from Lake Victoria. However, they failed to prove Speke’s theory because they did not trace the continuous course of the river. The conflicting claims of Burton and Speke resulted in a debate being scheduled at the RGS for 16 September 1864. On the day before the meeting, however, Speke died under mysterious circumstances while shooting partridge on the Neston Park Estate, Corsham in Wiltshire. Although probably accidental, the Burton camp would forever claim suicide.

nature & wildlife

the wild celery that carpets the forest floor. A new dawn begins in

Since Garner, chimpanzees in various parts of Africa have got

the endless cycle of eating and dozing that sustains life in the cool

used to assorted tents, cabins and huts, and to people emerging

mountain air of the most beautiful forest park in Africa.

from them. Indeed, some chimpanzees might find it odd not

Photo © Science Museum of Minnesota (background) & Michael Neugebauer (foreground)

In the wild, chimpanzees live throughout the West African and

to have a human tagging along! Fieldwork really took off in the

Central African forests. They are one of the four species of Great

1960’s when Adriaan Kortlandt, Vernon Reynolds, Kinji Imanishi,

Apes, the remainder being the gorillas of Central and Western

Junichero Itani and Jane Goodall each ventured into chimpanzee

Africa, bonobos (also known as pygmy chimpanzees), of the

territory, armed with questions, most of which had more to do

Democratic Republic of Congo, and the orangutans of Borneo and

with humans than chimpanzees. It was thought that, being our

Sumatra in Southeast Asia.

closest living relatives, chimpanzees might be able to put flesh

The first person from the western world to observe

on the bones of our ancestors and help us see our past more

chimpanzees in the wild was R.L. Garner in the 1890’s. He

clearly.

built a cage in the middle of a West African jungle – not for the

They did (Jane Goodall has described watching chimpanzees

chimpanzees, but for himself – so that he could sit in safety and

as being like turning back the clock); but they also intrigued their

watch any chimpanzees who passed by. He also, incidentally,

observers so much that the search for our roots soon grew into

spent some time trying to teach apes to talk – without success.

interest in them for their own sakes – and continues to grow.

After that, it was some 40 years before the next attempt was

Thanks to over 50 years of observation, Jane Goodall

made to learn something about chimpanzees in their natural

has made the chimpanzees of the Gombe National Park in

habitat. This was in 1930, when Henry Nissen was sent by

Tanzania the stars of the longest-running fieldwork project ever

primatologist Robert Yerkes to what was then French Guinea.

undertaken. It all started in 1960, when the young Jane Goodall

However, Nissen’s study, which lasted only four months, was

began – somewhat uncertainly – to follow the wild chimpanzees of

hampered because he insisted on moving through the forests

Gombe, a national park on the wooded slopes above the eastern

accompanied by a train of porters carrying his equipment.

shore of Lake Tanganyika in Tanzania (formerly Tanganyika). It

It was hardly surprising that he made very few direct

of this rather slender ape who had attached herself to them. It

travellers’ tales and a few chance observations – such as those

was to be the better part of five years before the chimpanzees

our Primate Relatives by Peter Holthusen.

and Jeffries Wyman in the Ivory Coast in 1842 – provided almost everything that was known of chimpanzee behaviour in the wild (although the African peoples who lived in or near the forests could have told us more), until the flurry of field studies began after the Second World War in the early 1960’s.

Photo © Peter Holthusen

travel fast and far in the hilly terrain when they wanted to be rid

feeding and nesting behaviour. This information, along with by the Rev. T.S. Savage, a medical missionary in West Africa

CHIMPANZEES

was hard and frustrating work, since the shy chimpanzees could

observations, although he did gather some data, especially on

were sufficiently habituated to allow her to follow and observe them continuously. She was also one of the first people to show that chimpanzees made use of tools and have highly complex social structures and behaviour. Nearly half a century later, we look back on the wealth of data painstakingly recorded by Jane Goodall herself, her Tanzanian field assistants and a privileged group

awn in the high mountain rain forests of Uganda comes

Above: Jane

Above: The more

of postgraduate students from all over

slowly. Rain clouds darken the sky, shrouding the

Goodall

we learn about

the world who earned their research

mountain in mist and hiding the emerging sun. Gradually,

playing with

chimpanzees and

degrees by studying different aspects of

as the light filters through, definition comes to the forest.

the sanctuary

the other Great

Everything is muted here, damp, soft. A thousand shades of

orphans,

Apes, the closer

green, layer upon layer of verdant life. There are movements on

(foreground)

the forest floor, slight stirrings of life, as the inhabitants rise.

we are to a

doing a ‘chimp

complete

call duet’.

understanding of

The dawn mists part reluctantly over the canopy of the Kibale Forest National Park. As the sky lightens, a huge male

ourselves.

chimpanzee stirs in his sleep. Around him, his little group of

their young, one of whom peers warily around and then clambers off the nest to find his half-sister. He peers intently at her, an outstretched hand inviting her to play. Rain falls often, and the apes sit stoically, their arms folded against the cold, as rain drips from their long black coats. Gradually, the sun rises, drawing the chill from the ground; the group stirs one by one, adults rolling over and stretching legs cramped by the nest’s confinement. A few quiet grunts simper through the still air; another replies. A female begins to feed on

22 | air uganda | aug – oct 2010

Left: Grooming

young orphan

is serious

chimpanzee at

business for

the Ngamba

chimpanzees. It

Island

cements bonds,

Chimpanzee Sanctuary in Uganda.

Photo © Peter Holthusen

the warmth of their night nests. Tucked in beside the females are

Right: A

Photo © Peter Holthusen

three females and a younger adult male doze fitfully, huddled in

and also removes

the chimpanzees’ behaviour and ecology. The chimpanzees themselves became the stars of many screen documentaries. One hundred miles to the south of Gombe lie the Mahale Mountains National Park, where Japanese primatologists led by Toshisada Nishida have been studying chimpanzees since 1965. Over the years many other observers in different places have added to the knowledge and insights of fieldworkers at Gombe and Mahale, and several other long-term projects are in full swing: Christopher Boesch and Hedwige Boesch-Achermann in the Tai Forest of

unwanted ticks

the Ivory Coast, CarolineTutin and Michael

and other

Fernandez in the Lope Reserve of Gabon,

parasites from

and Richard Wrangham and Isabirye

their fur.

Basuta in the Kibale Forest of Uganda. >>

aug – oct 2010 | air uganda | 23

nature & wildlife

Only 38 years ago, chimpanzee tea parties took place in London Zoo; now the debate is whether they should perhaps have a bill of rights (their genetic make-up differs from our own by a scant 1-1.5 per cent, so by what authority do we set our judgement of the species? Tea parties at London Zoo were stopped in 1972, and the famous PG Tips chimps may soon be history now that people are pointing out how demeaning (to the chimps) it is to make them behave like us. Thanks to many years of painstaking conservation it is now possible to see this most curious of apes in an environment more suited to its own. In captivity the best places to see

Lying approximately 23 kilometres southeast of Entebbe on

chimpanzees are the various sanctuaries located in a number

the vast expanse of Lake Victoria, Ngamba Island is a project

of African countries. These sanctuaries accept chimpanzee

of the Chimpanzees Sanctuary and Wildlife Conservation Trust

orphans, place them in as natural a setting as possible, and look

(CSWCT), established in 1997 by the Born Free Foundation

after their long-term care. Here you can see chimpanzees up

(United Kingdom), the International Fund for Animal Welfare

close, watch them interact with other chimpanzees, and learn

(United States of Africa), the Jane Goodall Institute (Germany and

about their behaviour and the issues that affect them in the wild.

Uganda), The Uganda Wildlife Education Trust (UWECT) and the

Most sanctuaries, such as Ngamba Island in Uganda,

Zoological Board of New South Wales in Australia, and it provides

Chimfunshi in Zambia, and Pandrillus in Nigeria, have guided

these orphaned chimpanzees with a secure home to live out their

tours and splendid education centres to help visitors get the

lives, since a return to their natural habitat is not possible, while

most out of their visit and some even have well-appointed guest

educating visitors and local communities about the species and

houses so the traveller can stay on site.

the importance of conserving their fragile forest habitat.

Some of these sanctuaries house more than 100

Ngamba Island is part of the Koome group of islands and

Photo © Camerapix Publishers/David Pluth

If your mission is to see chimpanzees in the wild there are few options where sightings can be almost certainly guaranteed

nature & wildlife

Above and below: Chimps at the Ngamba Island Chimpanzee Sanctuary in Uganda.

Above: Chimpanzees usually have flesh-coloured ears, noses, hands and feet

If your mission is to see chimpanzees in the wild there are few options where sightings can be almost certainly guaranteed. The Gombe National Park in Tanzania is the site of the first, and here to see the chimpanzees that were made famous by Jane

and to prevent attacks by males from other chimpanzee

Goodall can be added to a safari of some of the more well known

communities. Conflicts with neighbouring communities can

game parks, with the forests offering a very different experience

sometimes approach all-out warfare. At Gombe, an estimated 25

to the savannah of East Africa.

per cent of all adult male deaths occur during fights with foreign

characteristics. Most have chimpanzees that range from infants

and separated from the visitors area by an electric fence. The

of less than one year old, that need constant care and special

sanctuary was officially opened to visitors in October 1999 and is

feeding, up to adults of 40 or 50 years old that have spent a

currently home to 40 orphaned chimpanzees, almost half of which

of Uganda, such as the Kibale Forest National Park. Perhaps

large part of their lives at the sanctuary.

have been confiscated and brought to the island since its opening.

best known for its chimpanzees, it also contains another 12

For the more adventurous, there are treks into the forests

another community’s territory. The more we learn about chimpanzees the more they are compared to humans, both in their behaviour and relationship to

eastern Africa, including the rare blue and red-tailed monkeys

us. It is now thought that chimpanzees are our closest genetic

and grey-cheeked mangabey. Kibale protects virgin lowland

relatives, sharing approximately 99 per cent of their DNA with

tropical rainforest, montane evergreen forest and mixed tropical

humans. While the exact population size is unknown, current estimates

healthy population of chimpanzees and a wealth of forest birds

range from 100,000 to 200,000 and they are found in about 20

such as the golden-breasted starling, D’Arnaud’s barbet and red-

African countries. This might seem like a lot, but just 100 years ago

billed hornbill.

there may well have been 10 times this amount. As the territory

These treks offer the possibility of seeing chimpanzees in the Photo © Camerapix Publishers/David Pluth

males that encroach upon their territory or during raids on

primate species – the greatest variety of any forest in central-

deciduous forest, while the Maramagambo Forest contains a

and habitat of chimpanzees declines, so too does the population

wild and getting a feel for their forest habitat. Although the main

size. Logging, hunting, civil unrest and growing human populations all

draw is the chance encounter with a chimpanzee, there is the

contribute to the loss of habitat and the decline in population.

added possibility of seeing many other forest animals that share

To observe a chimpanzee in the wild is an experience to behold.

their home, such as elephants, sitatunga, great herds of Uganda

They tap you on the shoulder and remind you that you are not as

kob, giant forest hog, buffalo, reedbuck, bushbuck and waterbuck,

special as you think. They show you to your place – next to them.

not to mention the interesting trees and lush vegetation that

They remind you that for five million years, ever since humans

make up the forest.

took one branch and they took another, they have been living

Formal studies of wild chimpanzees have been going on in

24 | air uganda | aug – oct 2010

Adult males in Kibale have also been observed cooperating to guard their range against predators, such as lion or leopards,

consists of approximately 100 acres, 98 of which are forested

with age.

more common behaviour of building nests in trees.

longest-running, field-study centre of wild chimpanzees. A trip

chimpanzees, each with his or her individual behaviour and

that darken

often sleep on the ground, compared to what is thought to be the

alongside us. The more we learn about chimpanzees and the

Africa for decades. One site in northern Democratic Republic of

other Great Apes, the closer we are to a complete understanding

Congo has chimpanzees that tend to be larger than average, and

of ourselves. aug – oct 2010 | air uganda | 25

feature

noisily showed us where they were living in a hole high up the trunk. Several African grey hornbills were hopping around the naked branches, and a grey kestrel flew off its tree-top perch just as we arrived, almost immediately to be replaced by two magnificent azure and chestnut Abyssinian rollers. Idly I hoped one might moult a deep blue streamer feather as it flew off, but that talisman was destined to fall at someone else’s feet. Smaller birds, including a Eurasian redstart, hopped around on the dusty ground, searching for seeds and insects and inspecting the fallen fruit, quite oblivious to the passing of the holy man in Photo © Camerapix Publishers/Karl Ammann

black and white. It seems hardly possible to look at a big baobab without wondering how old it is. Every taxi driver between Dakar and Dar es Salaam can show you the oldest baobab in Africa, but actually they are usually impossible to age. The best way of ageing ancient trees is either to carbondate them or to count the rings of fallen or cut ones, but hollow trees foil both these ploys. Carbon-dating is notoriously inaccurate, and in any event relies on to the Virgin Mary. Here the tree forms a natural, living place

wood as old as the tree, which is missing from hollow baobabs.

of Christian worship, just as a hollow oak does in Normandy

Counting annual rings is a well tested and generally accurate

in northern France. Hollowness is no respecter of religions; in

way of ageing trees in temperate climes, where trees grow

India, at least one empty space created by the aerial roots of

slowly in the winter and faster in the summer. In the tropics,

banyan fig tree has been filled with a Hindu temple, right-handed

though, the seasons are often less marked, trees may grow

swastikas painted on its door posts.

more evenly throughout the year, or two rainy seasons in a year

In the harsh dry lands around Keren, young baobab leaves are

The Tree of Life Branching into new territory, Rupert Watson reflects on the meaning of life.

ver much of Africa, today as before, people are living in hollow baobabs, which they may have to share with bats, birds or even bees. The bulbous

trees are also used as shops and stores. In South Africa a Photo © Camerapix

baobab became a bar and in Zimbabwe a bus shelter, while in Sudan the hollow trees are treasured as wells called tebeldis. In Senegal, outcasts from the Sereres people are buried in coffins suspended in hollow trees, so as not to pollute the earth – not something that concerned the

26 | air uganda | aug – oct 2010

British administrator in the Caprivi Strip, who installed a flush lavatory in a baobab. A Nigerian baobab has been used as a prison, and the earliest written description of the tree, by the 14th century Arab traveller, Ibn Battutah, records one in Mali occupied by a weaver. Baobabs often act as altars, with votive offerings to some higher power being laid at their base. However, in Keren, north of Asmara, there is a hollow baobab which, on 18 July 1881 was consecrated as a Catholic shrine, dedicated

might mean a tree grows two annual rings instead of one.

a vital source of food for livestock. Year after year branchfuls of

So, like a dignified woman, the baobab continues to hide its

leaves are lopped off, and the trees all have a straggly, limbless

age, even from the most detailed technical investigation – and

look. The fruits do not last long on the tree either, and are

we can all continue to indulge in rampant, romantic guesswork.

quickly harvested for the white pith that surrounds the seeds

The baobab’s Latin name is Adansonia digitata – ‘digitata’

inside the pod. This pith is the richest natural source of vitamin

from its five-fingered leaves, and ‘Adansonia’ honouring a French

C in the world and is either taken as a drink or used to flavour

botanist, Michel Adanson, who introduced the tree to western

food. The shrine tree, in contrast to its fellows, is encircled with

science while travelling in Senegal in 1750. Astounded by what

a protective fence and approached by an avenue of healing neem

he saw, Adanson haphazardly estimated one tree to be 5,150

trees. It is tall, rounded – and many – branched, strong and

years old. A hundred years later his guesswork was under

entire, and was dripping with small fruits. There had obviously

attack from David Livingstone, whose scientific bet was severely

been plenty of bats to pollinate the big white flowers at night.

constrained by his dogmatic beliefs in the Creation theories of

Growing so huge in such arid areas, baobabs attract whole

Bishop James Ussher. By counting up the generations from

communities of life. Their hollowness is one of their prime

Adam to Christ, these purported to fix the date of the world’s

attractions – holes in branches as well as great empty trunks.

creation at 4004 BC. This meant Adanson’s tree would have

Whether because of its wholesomeness or being supposedly

been alive at the time of the Great Flood. As no tree could

closer to God, the shrine tree seemed to have a magnetic

have survived the Flood, Adanson must have been wrong, or

appeal to passing birds. Parrots have a particular affinity for

worse still, was inferring there never had been a Flood! (Still,

baobabs, and two brown parrots (their colloquial species name)

Livingstone tried counting annual rings on a tree in Botswana, >>

aug – oct 2010 | air uganda | 27

feature

Photo © Camerapix Publishers/Karl Ammann

Baobabs are the oldest living things in Africa, ... standing as silent witnesses to history, to the passing of people and seasons, life and death

>> coming up with an age of 4,360 – and also carved his initials in one above Victoria Falls.)

Italian-occupied, mountain-ringed Keren was relentlessly bombarded by British artillery. For weeks on end, flying shards

Now the guesswork is rather more informed. By knowing

of shell filled the air, seeking out the flesh of Italian soldiers,

the age and girth of a young tree, and dangerously assuming

three of whom took refuge in the baobab. A huge chunk of

baobabs expand at a constant rate, one can find a figure for

shrapnel scythed a hole into the trunk three metres from the

the age of any other tree of known girth. The hollow in the

ground, making an instant window that still lets in the light

Keren tree would take three or four people lying down, and a

today. But the soldiers all survived unscathed, the walls of wood

dozen squeezed together as if they were in a lift. It is not huge

protecting them from the smaller pieces of metal. The baobab:

by baobab standards, but this part of Africa is very barren, and

shrine, sanctuary, refuge, safety. Since then Eritrea has had its

the trees grow much slower than they would in the lotus land of

own wars to fight, and worshippers stop at the tree to pray for

the East African coast. Perhaps it is a 1,000 years old, and the

protection and safety for themselves or their loved ones.

wonder is that there is no way to know. Baobabs are the oldest living things in Africa, and like all great

Nature meets religion at the Keren shrine, hopefully awakening in visitors the realisation that as humans we are

trees stand as silent witnesses to history, to the passing of

simply part of nature, not somewhere far above it. The Earth

people and seasons, life and death. If the Keren tree is 1,000

is an ant in the savannah of the universe, a century a dot on

years old, did it watch Christians retreating inland as Islam

the line of time. For all their apparent potency today, humans

spread down the Red Sea coast? Have long-gone lions lain in

are merely passing through both time and space, whether as

its shade, and did elephants once gouge out tuskloads of its

evolutionary stepping stones to a new species or headlong on

younger wood? It may not be old enough to have witnessed the

their way to self-destruction.

fourth century heyday of the Axumite Kingdom, but the tree that

Whatever your religion, you cannot fail to be amazed by this

dropped the seed from which it grew almost certainly was.

tree’s great presence. Whether it derives from nature, the

Of all the turmoil that has beset Eritrea, finding itself a

tree’s own spirit, God or the Virgin Mary seems wonderfully

battleground for an extension of the war between rival colonial

irrelevant – and actually the best possible reason to jumble them

powers was perhaps the most unfortunate. Early in 1941,

all together, whether at the tree or anywhere else on Earth.

28 | air uganda | aug – oct 2010

feature

THE SSESE ISLANDS

In the Footsteps of the Gods...

Photo © Camerapix Publishers/David Pluth

Photo © Peter Holthusen

by Peter Holthusen.

Left: Ssese Island beach. Above: Sunrise over Lake Victoria

– whose t is sunrise over Lake Victoria and on the ivory white

is home to Bugala, site of the island’s main town, Kalangala,

shoreline has

sand a solitary figure is greeting the new dawn. He lifts

home to the district headquarters, while other islands

more than

his fishing nets out of the water and hangs them out

include Bubeke, Bufumira, Bugaba, Bukasa, Buyova, Funve

3,000 islands,

to dry. Then something moves. As if from nowhere a tiny

and Serinya. The main islands in the north-eastern group are

including Ssese

pink crab appears, scuttling sideways across the beach. It

Damba, Kkome and Luwaji.

Islands in

skims the surface, barely making an impression in the wet

The islands came into existence some 12 million years

sand. And then they are gone and once more the beach is

ago when a tectonic shift caused an elevated basin situated

totally deserted, proof that in a crowded world there are still

between the two main arms of the Great Rift Valley to flood,

some places that remain unspoilt, but then this is the Ssese

forming Lake Victoria as we know it today.

Islands. Lake Victoria is the largest lake in Africa and the chief

Little is known about the earliest inhabitants of the Ssese Islands, but some oral traditions associated with the creation

reservoir of the Nile. Among the freshwater lakes of the

of the Kingdom of Buganda claim that its founder, Kintu hailed

world it is exceeded in size only by Lake Superior in North

from the ‘Islands of the Gods’. In pre-colonial times it was

America. Its waters fill a shallow depression in the plateau

customary for the kings of Buganda to visit the islands and

that stretches between the western and eastern arms of the

pay tribute to the several Balubaale whose main shrines to

Great Rift Valley. The lake has a shoreline of 3,440 kilometres

Mukasa, spirit of the lake, were located on Bubembe Island.

(2,138 miles) and has more than 3,000 islands, many of

Some Bugandan historical sources romanticise this

which are inhabited. These include the beautiful Ssese Islands

relationship, claiming that in pre-colonial times Ssese, due to

in Uganda – a large group of islands in the northwest area of

its exalted status was never attacked by Buganda, nor was it

the lake.

formally incorporated into the mainland Kingdom. In reality,

The Ssese Islands are an archipelago of 84 islands in

while Ssese probably did enjoy a degree of autonomy, it was

the nation’s Kalangala district. About 43 of the islands are

clearly a vassal of Buganda for at least a century prior to the

inhabited, and vary in size from less than 10,000 square

colonial era. Furthermore, while the Baganda people revered

metres, to over 40 kilometres in length for the largest of

the island’s spirits, Henry Morton Stanley recorded that they,

the island group, Bugala. The islands lie in two main groups,

“looked down on their human inhabitants for their ‘coal-black’

separated by the Kkome Channel. The south-western group

colour, timidity, superstition, and general uncleanly life”.

30 | air uganda | aug – oct 2010

Uganda.

The most popular legend associated with a deity from

resulting in overfishing. Other industries include agriculture,

the Ssese Islands dates from the mid-16th century, when

forestry and tourism.The islands are blessed with over

Buganda, led by Nakibinge, was being overwhelmed in a war

13 forests, uncountable beaches and over seven hours of

against the Kingdom of Bunyoro. Nakibinge visited the islands

sunshine a day.

in search of support, and was offered the assistance of the

For much of the 1990’s, the islands were renowned as a

local king’s youngest son, Kibuuka, who leaped to the mainland

popular tourist destination for backpackers in search of wildlife

in one mighty bound to join the war against the Bunyoro. Tall

and adventure, but even these intrepid souls stopped coming

and powerful though, Kibuuka, which means ’the flier’, was

when the ferry linking the islands to Kampala stopped more

also possessed of a somewhat more singular fighting skill. A

than 10 years ago, making a journey in a fisherman’s canoe

deity in human form, he was able to fly high above the clouds

the quickest way to get there. Although these attractions have

and shower down spears on the enemy, who had no idea

not diminished in recent years, their popularity evidently had,

from where the deadly missiles emanated. Led by Kibuuka’s

attributed perhaps to the suspension of the regular ferries

aerial attacks, rout followed rout, and the tide of war reversed

from Port Bell as well as the burgeoning tourist development

swiftly in Nakibinge’s favour as the Baganda army proceeded

at the more accessible Lake Bunyonyi in Kigezi.

deeper into Banyoro territory. Although Buganda went on to win the war, Kibuuka did

Thankfully there is now a new daily ferry, the MS Kalangala, from Entebbe pier to Bugala, the largest of the 84 islands in

not survive to enjoy the spoils of victory. After yet another

the archipelago, enabling a new wave of pioneering tourists to

successful battle, the Baganda warriors captured Banyoro

discover their soft white sands, blue waters and lush tropical

maidens and gave one to Kibuuka as his mistress. Kibuuka

forests teeming with wildlife.

told the Banyoro girl his secret, only to find that she had

Only two islands regularly receive tourists, the more

vanished overnight. The next day, Kibuuka soared up into the

established of these is Bugala, which is privately owned and

sky as normal, and was greeted by a barrage of Bunyoro

the site of a popular budget resort. Other islands that can

spears and arrows projected up towards the clouds. Kibuuka

be visited with varying degrees of ease are Bubeke, Bukasa,

fell wounded into a tall tree, where he was spotted and died

Bufumira and Banda. Not least among the Ssese Islands

the next day.

attractions are their rustic character and the sense of being

The Ssese Islands are inhabited by the Bantu speaking Bassese tribe, closely related to the Baganda and Basoga

well away from the established tourist circuit. Extending over 200 kilometres and measuring 43 kilometres

people, and speaking a similar, though distinct language. The

from east to west, Bugala is the best developed for tourism

principal industry in the islands is of course, fishing for the

and dotted with accommodation to suit most tastes and

huge Nile perch, with most of the catch being exported, and

budgets. Kalangala, the administrative centre for the islands,

When you spy an island on the horizon, a powerful force takes over. It’s as if the human psyche demands that we discover and explore >> aug – oct 2010 | air uganda | 31

feature

Right:

The principal

The Ssese

industry in the

Islands are an

islands is of

archipelago

course, fishing

of 84 islands

for the huge

in Uganda’s

Nile perch, with

Kalangala

most of the

district. About

catch being

43 of the

exported.

islands are inhabited, and vary in size. Below:

Photo © Peter Holthusen

Sport fishing is a popular tourist

Photo © Peter Holthusen

attraction.

... considered to be one of the world’s most beautiful places, a popular tourist destination for those in search of dense forests, exotic birds and monkeys Although many visitors to Bugala stick to the beach resort

>> is an unremarkable small town situated on a ridge at the

Russian Orthodox Church with a multi-coloured Russian style

at Lutoboka, the island also offers some great possibilities for

cupola built by Father Christopher Walusimbi, who is not only

eastern end of the island, while the nearby Lutoboka Bay

unstructured walking. Strike out in any direction from Kalangala

the priest, but also a representative to the District Educational

hosts the island’s main cluster of beach resorts. Another

and you will be greeted with pleasing views over the forested and

Committee, a Board member on two other school committees;

important landmark on Bugala is Luku, the small village on

grassy clearings of the lake shore and more distant islands.

and he is also considered somewhat of an elder in the

the western extreme of the island where the ferry from

A popular cycling excursion off the road towards Luku is to

the mainland docks. A good dirt road connects Luku to

Mutumbula swimming beach, reputedly free of Schistosomiasis

community. Despite being over 60 years old, Fr. Christopher is very

Kalangala, and several minor roads run to other villages

(bilharzia). Travellers tend to concentrate along the Kalangala-

active: he assumed a great burden to help children in the

lying further south on the island.

Luku road, and justifiably so, since the road heading south from

Ssese Islands, who were orphaned as a result of the AIDS

Kalangala is far more cultivated. One potentially interesting

epidemic. For the past 25 years he has also run an ambulance

Vervet monkey, often seen in the vicinity of Lutoboka and

destination in this direction is the marshy south-western shores

service from the island to the mainland 64 kilometres (40

Kalangala. Bushbucks and black-and-white Colobus are

which harbour small numbers of hippo as well as a healthy

miles) to the north. He also runs one of the most comfortable

present but seldom observed. Over the 12 million years

population of the elusive sitatunga or ‘marshbuck’ antelope,

guesthouses on the island, 30 minutes walk from the jetty.

that the island has been separate from the mainland, one

with larger horns than that of the mainland species, regarded

The most common large mammal on Bugala is the

Also infrequently visited by travellers, Bufumira Island is

by some authorities to represent an endemic island race.

readily accessible by fishing boat from Bugala, and there is a

have evolved. Water and forest birds are prolific. Expect

Without a private vehicle, you would probably need to do an

small guesthouse in its largest village Semawundu, though you

to see a variety of hornbills, barbets, turacos, robin-chats,

overnight walking or cycling trip to get to these swamps.

are advised to bring your food with you. Far more popular is

flycatchers and weaver birds from the roads around Kalangala. Particularly common are the jewel-like pygmy kingfisher, the beautiful malachite kingfisher, the brownthroated wattle-eye and a stunning morph of the paradise flycatcher intermediate to the orange and white phases illustrated in most East African field guides. African fish eagles and palm-nut vultures are often seen near the lake, while immense breeding colonies of little egret and great cormorant occur on Lutoboka and other bays.

32 | air uganda | aug – oct 2010

Photo © Camerapix Publishers/David Pluth

endemic creek rat and three endemic butterfly species

Bukasa Island is considered to be one of the world’s most

the smaller Banda Island, site of a backpacker resort that has

beautiful places and is a popular tourist destination for those

become something of a legend among travellers in the last few

in search of dense forests, exotic birds and monkeys. Second

years. Several other small, mostly uninhabited islands can be

largest of the islands in the Ssese archipelago, it is remote

reached by fishing boat as day trips from Bugala.

and relatively hard to get to. Life here is difficult. Poverty is

When you spy an island on the horizon, a powerful force

rampant; there is no healthcare and no electricity. Most people

takes over. It’s as if the human psyche demands that we

survive by growing and selling produce.

discover and explore. If that island should be in the Ssese

Yet here, in the midst of Africa, on a tiny island which you will not find on most maps of the world, stands a beautiful

archipelago, you’ll be well rewarded for charting a course to her shores.

aug – oct 2010 | air uganda | 33

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Whether complementing a romantic dinner for two, adorning

A family or extended family group kept themselves and a few

electricity, the humble candle has remained a constant figure in

animals for nourish (and later their pelts), and either moved

our lives for centuries. Sue Royal looks at its many uses over the

around or lived with other similar groups. One thing that was

years.

freely available was animal fat, and it wasn’t long before someone

he soft glow of candlelight is the embodiment of romance for lovers. To others the candle is a potent religious symbol representing Christ as the light of life. In some societies it

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34 | air uganda | aug – oct 2010

Most of society at one time was rural and peasant based.

a church’s altar, or simply providing light to those who have no

During the long winter nights, man yearned to imitate the sun

discovered its combustible properties. Early candles were makeshift and inefficient. Rush lights were reeds dipped in tallow (made from beef or mutton fat) which when lighted, produced smoke, a rather pungent smell and a flickering light. The same was true of tallow candles – although they had the refinement of a wick passing through them. Centuries ago, long before clocks came on the scene, candles actually served the dual purpose of providing light – and telling time. Divisions were made at equal distances down the sides

and prolong daylight. He managed it with the materials at hand,

of the candle, and – after figuring out how many ‘divisions’

but the search for the perfect illumination was extensive and

there were in the hours of daylight and darkness – people had

fraught with difficulties.

themselves a primitive timepiece. >> aug – oct 2010 | air uganda | 35

art & craft

When a portable candle was required, people in Mexico, south-east Asia, Africa

as five – worked. Not surprisingly, young people working in these

and the Caribbean bundled together some

type of conditions suffered problems with their eyesight by the

inflammable material, such as tea resin,

time they reached their teens.

wrapped it in palm leaves and lit it to use as a torch. Once people realised fats and oils

Americans Stainthorp and Wurmstone invented the water-cooled candle mold and movable tip-piece. Some people still make them

In the Mediterranean, olives grew in

at home – and the method is much the same as the method

one at a time. Wicks suspended on a frame were dipped in hot

abundance, so olive oil was used for light

used hundreds of years ago. The one abiding principal is the need

wax or tallow, emersed and then lifted out to cool. They were

and fuel. In the south of America, cotton

to keep the wick central. Only minimum equipment is needed –

dipped again and again, adding more and more layers, until the

seed was used for the same purpose.

moulds, which can be anything from long thin traditional candle-

candle was judged to be thick enough. Rolled candles were made

shaped ones to old jam jars – and iron pans with a lip to guide the

by pouring melted wax onto the wick in a thin layer, then allowing

burned without spluttering or guttering and gave a fairly even light – which crude

hot wax. The ‘recipe’ for those first tallow candles? Beef

candles made of pig fat just couldn’t

fat, mutton fat, or pork scraps. Fry over a

provide.

low heat, collect the resulting grease

Someone eventually came up with the

of salty water for 10 minutes

candles didn’t need to have the charred

to clean. Stir and leave to

ends of their wicks trimmed regularly, or

cool. Once it is completely

‘snuffed’. They didn’t gutter or spit hot

cold, the fat will form

matter.

a hard cake on the

candles) from

So the wax candle reigned supreme, for

top of the water. The

turning yellow.

those who could afford it, until the invention

underside should be

•

of the Argand burner in 1782, which

scraped clean before

them dripping or

provided a more constant flame even than

it can be weighed and

spluttering, put

a wax candle. But candles certainly didn’t

melted down to make

candles on ice for

become obsolete. Refinements for dealing

the candles required.

two or three hours

metal cylinders punched with small holes,

pan of water, and heat to boiling so the tallow becomes

of Orkney, off the coast of Scotland, discovered that seabirds,

animal horn have been unearthed. Devices which adjusted the

runny again. Once this is done,

with their habit of eating oily fish, had reservoirs of combustible

height of the flame came on the market, and sliding holders and

strain the tallow through some

materials in their stomachs that were good to burn. The islanders

ratchet devices endeavoured to give an even light as the candle

cheesecloth and pour into moulds with

threaded a wick through the hapless bird’s body, stood it on a

burned down. Portable brass candlesticks, which could be folded

wicks already placed in them, and then dust with

lump of clay and presto – they had a lamp that kept going for

away and had caps, were also popular.

talcum powder. Candles are made upside down, so some excess wick must be left at the bottom. Just any old string or thread is not good enough to become a

Island, Canada, who once burned oily fish on sticks; nor the

the contrast between the dull light thrown on to the pages of

wick – it needs to be specially treated. Cotton string or braided

Shetland islanders ( neighbours of the bird burners of Orkney),

a book, and the glare from the brighter parts of the flame. A

cord should be soaked in turpentine, or a mixture of borax,

who utilised the stormy petrel to bring a little light into their lives.

round shield attached to an adjustable arm was fixed to fall in

chloride of lime, chloride of ammonia and saltpetre dissolved in

Polynesians burned oily nuts, stuck on a piece of bamboo, as

between the candle and the person using the light to read. As

water. After 15 to 20 minutes soaking, the wick should be dried

candles, and Mexicans lit the oily bark of the aptly-named candle

the flame burned down, the shield was moved down, too.

off in the sun before it is ready to be used.

Candlelight was even used in industry, for the lacemaker’s

That is the most basic traditional candle-making method, but

condenser. Lacemaking schools in Europe placed one tallow

there are others. Of course, beeswax or paraffin wax can be

oyster shells, filled with tallow or wax, to light their homes.

candle in the centre of four bulb-shaped flasks filled with water.

used instead of tallow, or a mixture of any of the three.

Remains of hollowed out stone lamps, which worked on a similar

These were placed on sticks at about the same height as the

principal, have been found in caves in France.

flame. The ‘lens’ provided by the water-filled flasks reflected a

All over the world, seaside communities used scallop and

36 | air uganda | aug – oct 2010

sunshine for a few hours – it stops them (particularly tallow

The dipping method of making candles was used when a batch needed to be made quickly – it took less effort than making just

To stop

before you use them.

is best. Sit the container

lot less risky and painful. Early types were

The candle shield – a monumentally complicated piece of

exposing to dew, air or

For the melting

for the wax inside a larger

machinery – stopped the problem of eyes being strained by

• Bleach candles by

container, a double boiler

but even earlier versions (dating back 2,000 years) made of

tree for illumination.

facts:

suddenly advanced to a higher plane. Wax

Candle lanterns made transportation a

Odour also did not seem to bother the Indians from Vancouver

Lastly, a few little-known candle

and squeeze through a course cloth.

solution: beeswax. The whole business

related problems, got more sophisticated.

hours.

wick by hand while it was still warm and soft.

Then boil the melted fat in plenty

with falling wax fire risk and other candle-

Accidents produce some very odd discoveries. The people

it to partially set. The wax was then rolled around the

•

To help the

candle burn better, turn it upside down and rub a pinch of salt into the wick between your thumb and forefinger (before you light up!) There is even a ‘best way’ to blow a candle out – hold it higher than your mouth and blow upwards, rather than downwards – it stops the wick smouldering. Photo © Camerapix Publishers/Shakira Chaudry

Photograph supplied by Candle Makers Supplies/Sheila Fitzjones Associates

Candle-making has not changed much down the centuries. One of the first steps forward in candle-making came in 1855, when

From grapes to snakes, weird to wonderful, candles come in all shapes and sizes and often in extraordinary realistic models

burned, they made use of local resources.

The aim was for a constant flame which

concentrated light on the lace on which children – some as young

aug – oct 2010 | air uganda | 37

feature

Buying

or Leaving by Kevin Abdulrahman.

it?

in monetary terms. You are suggesting very strongly that I do not do this project, so would you be able to wire the funds that I require into my account every year?” To this, every friend would stutter and then always say, “No.” (I can’t seem to find one that will take the bait.) I would turn around and say, “So if you can’t give me what I want, would you be kind enough not to give me your opinions

either? I am an all-or-nothing guy; how about you give me all or

is that it’s free, and, unfortunately, most of it is worth

supermarket. You want some fruits, vegetables, milk, orange

its weight in rubbish. Every Tom, Dick, and Harriet has

juice, and some pasta for dinner. You enter armed with your list,

something to say. You can’t stop people from giving

knowing exactly what you need to buy. But is what you want all

opinions, but you sure can choose how to deal with them.

that there is on offer in the supermarket? Oh no.

t’s said that the cheapest commodity in this world is

nothing.” I never hear their opinion from that point on. It’s a bit

people’s opinion because everyone has a truckload to

harsh, but it has helped me stay focussed.

give away. The sad part that fuels this phenomenon

Here’s the bottom line. You are in control. You choose whether to accept those opinions or not. You

I want you to imagine shopping for groceries at your local

Supermarkets are great at strategically displaying thousands of products, all to tempt you to pick them up off the shelves. Let me ask you, how many times have you fallen for this marketing ploy? How many times have you ended up buying things that were not on your shopping list, things that you had no intention

choose whether you let what Tom says affect you, and you choose

of buying? Those products did not just jump off the shelf and into

whether Dick’s criticisms makes you feel down and out. You

your basket (although at times it feels like it). Those who are on

choose whether what Harriet thinks of you affects how you do

a strict budget and those who are serious about going in and

your business.

getting out are usually the best at avoiding this trap. They simply

Always consider this – if those people giving you their opinions

go in, buy what they come for, and leave – mission accomplished.

don’t have what you want or aren’t where you want to be, then

Your life is like going through a supermarket. It’s filled with

why should you accept their opinions? Just think about it. Why

people’s opinions. It’s completely up to you what ends up in your

take their opinion if that’s all they are giving away? Someone

basket, which will determine what you take through the checkout

might think that it’s a good idea for you to jump off a cliff, but

with you. Successful people have mastered the art of being able

would you do it? Someone else might think that it’s a good idea

to keep opinions shelved with the owner. They only listen to the

for your child to hang around street gangs, but would you agree

right people in the right field. Just because someone has an

to it? One person might think that your spouse isn’t the right

opinion doesn’t mean you have to buy it. Successful people are

person for you, but would you swap? Another might not like

good at becoming unaffected by opinions, good or bad. They go

the shirt you’re wearing, but would you let others choose your

with what they have set out to do. They go with their shopping

clothes for you? Isn’t it interesting that most poor people like to

list.

give their advice on how to make money and become rich? Isn’t it

Fear and personal limitations rule most people’s realities.

interesting that most people will tell you how to have a successful

People give you their opinions based on their own fears. They will

relationship when they’re going through their 11th spouse?

talk you out of an idea or a venture you might be planning. They

Isn’t it interesting how many will commentate on an athlete’s

are unable to see what you see. They will not have your skill set,

performance as they are watching the game on television from

talent and knowledge.

their couch?

Unfortunately, these people are often those who are closest to

I’ve always asked myself – and, at times, challenged some

you. They don’t really want to harm you, but in most instances,

friends who wanted to give me their opinions to answer this

they have absolutely no clue about what they are talking about.

question: I would say something like this, “I like to have a lavish

If they did, they would be doing something more active with their

time, free life so I will need a fair amount of money to keep me

lives rather than giving their opinion.

happy. Being the spontaneous person that I am, I could be in New

Again, we don’t let others choose the clothes we wear. We

York one day and feel like sitting on the beautiful sands in the Gold

don’t let others choose our spouse, the sport we play, or our

Coast of Australia the next. I could be walking on the Great Wall

friends. Therefore, never let someone else choose how you

of China midweek and then want to head to Pisa to admire the

should live or what you should do with your life. You are not

leaning tower for the weekend. I want to be able to give my family

disrespecting anyone; you’re just choosing not to take in the

whatever they need, without a blink. That would cost a lot purely

opinions others are offering – it’s that simple.

38 | air uganda | aug – oct 2010

aug – oct 2010 | air uganda | 39

technology

that seem too good to be true – and are. Order them, give your

tool. In one afternoon it is possible to stroll through the British

being delivered. By the time the law tries to catch up, these

Museum, buy and sell shares, research treatments for your aches

outfits have disappeared into thin air – taking your money with

and pains, talk on a chat site with someone living at the opposite

them.

end of the earth, view a house you’re thinking of buying, and order

There are many variations of credit card scams. However,

In this remarkable new electronic world you can also download

to inadvertently send confidential information to the wrong people,

images, send e-mails, contribute to a newsgroup, and never have

which can mean you are breaking the law and may be liable to

to battle the traffic. You can listen to the latest music, access the

serious legal action.

news as it happens and even watch movies. That is the bright

Computer hacking has become the new-age, high-tech sport becoming increasingly sophisticated. Spoofing, cramming,

a wealth of information to the fingertips of anyone with a computer. That’s the bright side. As Walter Glaser discovered, the Net can cheat and swindle you

and corrupt and disturb your children.

ou are on a business trip to a faraway country but didn’t bother bringing travelers cheques. After all, you are secure in the knowledge that your credit card

has a sizeable unused credit limit. And travelers cheques are

younger, computer-savvy generations (there are so many new

trying to protect children and retain a sense of decency in the

expressions; we’ve included a list of the basic ones at the end of

community. In the search for knowledge for a school project, a

this article).

child could be subject to images from gore sites, hatred sites, Often the pointers to such sites are deliberately designed to

degree. Not only is this very profitable; in many countries, there

appear quite harmless, initially leading the internet surfers to

are simply no laws that adequately cover this type of new-

believe the site to be connected with their field of research.

resulting sentences are often minimal. Computer hackers are very often as young as they are clever.

Pornography is probably the most profitable money-maker on the web today. But there is even worse. Every style of perversion is available, with full colour images, somewhere on the internet.

A while back, a 17-year-old Scandinavian boy discovered a way

Photographs of executions and murder victims and autopsy

of breaking the code protecting the new DVD movie disks from

photographs constitute just some of the ‘gore’ sites. Then there

being copied. He didn’t try to profit from this, but simply published

are dangerous sites, including some which offer do-it-yourself

his system on the web. Needless to say, the movie studios were

instructions for bomb-making, and others preaching hate and

horrified, and the whole exercise cost them millions.

intolerance.

Other hackers decided to show their skill by breaking into

Parents are not the only group that is concerned about dark

American University computers and using the massive volumes of

websites. Schools, corporations, religious groups and those

data to bombard major transmission providers and e-commerce

concerned with community standards are at a loss to know how

operators into overload and breakdown.

to cope with the easy access of this dubious material.

use policy for employees. This was brought ahead by court cases

Arriving at the faraway international airport, you head for the

ruling in favour of female employees who felt intimidated by being

nearest ATM to get enough of the local currency to cover your

targeted by such material, and feeling that this created

hotel, entertainment, taxis and other expenses that you know are

a hostile work environment.

going to mount up over the next week.

Companies are at multiple

Inserting your credit card and personal identification number

risk from without and within.

(PIN) number, you request the ATM for 1,000 faraway Dollars.

While hackers try and access

But instead of receiving the money, a slip tells you that your credit

their systems from the outside,

card limit is overdrawn. What you don’t find out until after you

staff insiders are frequently

have contacted the credit card company, is that hackers broke

destructive as well, both with

into the records of a company from which you recently made

criminal intent or because they

a purchase, and then published the details of your bank, credit

feel that in order to get even

card number and enough information for professional website

for some perceived wrongdoing

thieves to access your account and clean it out. It’s a story that is

40 | air uganda | aug – oct 2010

enable computer criminals to access accounts to a frightening

some type of restrictive rules that set out acceptable computer-

(ATM) around the world.

accessed. A large number of fly-by-night companies offer wares

pornographic sites, or gambling sites at the click of a button.

compromised that many organisations have now established

can use a credit card in virtually every automated teller machine

Computer crime goes beyond having your credit card illegally

Accessing your money is not the only trap to the web. One dark

Recently, companies have found their office computers so

yesterday’s technology. Who would bother with them when you

repeated day after day.

these positives. side of the internet is another major minefield faced by those

millennium crime. And even if the computer criminals are caught,

Warez is the term used to describe illegal copies of software

side of the internet. But the flip side has a negative for each of

steganography and caching are now part of the language of the

There are now special hacker programmes available that

The internet has been hailed as a new fountain of knowledge, bringing

an increasing number of commodities for home delivery.

there are even worse problems awaiting the unwary. It is possible

and subtleties in the methods of invading your computer are

The Dark Side of the Web

For those who use it properly, the internet can be a wonderful

credit card details, and the card is debited without the goods

Computer crime goes beyond having your credit card illegally accessed

by their company they can create computer mischief, and no one will be able to find out. >>

aug – oct 2010 | air uganda | 41

health

technology

Malaria

Fresh Hope for an Effective Vaccine

detailing illegal procedures such as how to

And sometimes something done as a light-hearted joke can go terribly wrong. A British bank recently set out a programme targeting its super-wealthy clientele in the bank’s private-banking section. The programmer, intending to have the

make a bomb, rob a bank, or even kill someone. <Cramming> which means that your credit card website transaction is billed to you at a

Below: A female

the disease once contracted has also improved greatly, but it

malaria is one of those diseases that has so far refused to

has stubbornly remained as one of the few major diseases to be

go away. Other major-league killers such as smallpox and

still on the rise. situation. A decade ago, the World Health Organisation (WHO)

eluded researchers. But now hope could be at hand.

began warning of the possible spread of malaria because

computer system. <MP3> is an easily copied music file format, mostly used for copyright piracy and is creating big problems for the music industry.

programme is of great interest to schools, companies, universities and parents

<Spoofing> is the copying of an entire

with home computers, all anxious to stamp out the abuse of computer networks.

website which is posted on a free web-space.

System Lookout can be customised for each client to filter out specific material. Some of the ‘inappropriate material’ could well be innocuous but damaging – such as out-of-date price lists, outdated information and, on the

once thought safe.

GSK is stressing that these trials are essential if the vaccine

Some of this increase could be influenced by other factors

but the trend is there, and it looks set to continue until an

– the only

effective vaccine is available. Great emphasis is being placed

sub-tropical Africa, where the disease is seen as a major factor

by the Gates Foundation and GSK on ensuring that distribution

holding back economic development.

and implementation procedures are in place for the day when

malaria parasites.

Unfortunately, there are many areas of the continent where

a vaccine, hopefully RTSS, will be ready, and available free.

conditions are all too favourable for the malarial mosquito to

Meanwhile, combating malaria by all the known methods has to

thrive, and the effects of the disease itself are a big factor in

continue and be extended as far as possible.

<Hacking> is the unauthorised access to a

Bushanna International Limited by their specialist spin-off company system

information has been copied from a Flash Disk, CD or other medium. The

East Africa, especially in Kenya, Tanzania, Uganda and Rwanda,

the governmental health authorities concerned.

to five years. This is particularly good news for tropical and

vector of

Lookout is designed to identify inappropriate material and can tell if the

true. Cases are now being reported from towns and villages in

Kenya, involving 16,000 under-fives, with the full co-operation of

mosquito

frequent.

Lookout Limited.

prediction that more land would come under threat has proved

being run in seven countries of sub-Saharan Africa including

upheavals, or migrant workers returning from malarial zones,

inverterbrate

system is being developed by a Scottish company. It has been designed by

considered non-malarial. But as temperatures rise, the WHO’s

RTSS, is in the final stages of development. Extensive trials are

the worst effects of malaria, then it could be available in three

as not to attract attention, but they are

A software system to keep criminals activity out of the information technology

metres, large tracts of mountainous sub-Saharan Africa were

confident enough to announce that a new vaccine, known as

the RTSS vaccine develop a sufficient degree of immunity to

glitch caused all the letters to go out with that heading. The programmer no

software into real versions.

malarial mosquitoes don’t normally breed above 1,500-2,000

multinational pharmaceutical company, GlaxoSmithKline, were

species

following months. The amounts are small, so

So what is the answer?

of global warming. Again, Africa was in the front line. Since

MVI) funded by the Bill and Melinda Gates Foundation and the

such as large population movements caused by political

draft letter up with the opener ‘‘Dear Filthy-Rich Bastard.’’ You’ve guessed it! A

<Cracking> turns evaluation versions of

An additional note of urgency has also been added to the

of a really effective vaccine against malaria has, time and again,

is to be given the go-ahead. If it is found that children given

slightly higher amount, and repeated in the

in this category either!

and bed nets impregnated with insecticide, and the controversial

Anopheles

computer add the name of each client to individualise the approach, headed the

longer works at the bank. But the bank no longer has most of its former clients

by means of prophylactic drugs, insect-repellent lotions, clothing measures of area spraying and bush clearance. Treatment for

In November 2009, the Path Malaria Vaccine Initiative (Path

<Anarchy sites> encourages lawlessness by

only defences against it have been down the path of prevention

n spite of all the amazing advances in medical science,

yellow fever have been virtually eliminated, but the magic bullet

The hacker’s Jargon:

high mortality rates, especially among young children. So far, the

This is particularly good news for tropical and sub-tropical Africa, where the disease is seen as a major factor holding back economic development.

Unsuspecting net-surfers are coerced through search engines or incorrect links to visit the site. They may then enter credit card details for goods that never arrive.

incoming side, unwanted advertising via email. Computer owners, especially company networks, can benefit from such protective systems in many ways. They can lower costs by having a reduced flow

<Phreaking> is phone fraud used along with telecommunication technologies that help hackers create mischief in the computing world.

of data to check each day. Litigation can be avoided and efficiency improved as employees cannot access banned or time-wasting material. And it can also make

<Steganography> means that hidden messages are

hacking or leaking more difficult. No-one wants to deal with an organisation that

contained within other messages, enabling two

may develop a reputation as a ‘leaking sieve’ for confidential data.

or more people to have secret communications contained with news groups or websites.

Sadly, computer security is a little like viruses. As soon as you find an answer to one, newer versions pop up elsewhere. But fortunately a new breed of

<Warez> is the name used to describe illegal

protection experts is making the work of those that try to subvert the system

copies of software.

for fun or profit, harder and harder. All that the individual or corporate user

For more information on computer protection

can do is to take the greatest care possible. The new age has arrived, and the

check out:

clock cannot be turned back. We must all be aware that with all its marvels and benefits, there is also a very dark side to the web.

42 | air uganda | aug – oct 2010

<www.buchananinternational.com>

aug – oct 2010 | air uganda | 43

health

The Medicinal Qualities of Ginger by Habeeb Salloum.

AIR UGANDA FLIGHT SCHEDULE

a stimulating tonic for digestive disorders. Brewed as a tea, it was employed to relieve headaches, chest congestion, and indigestion and to induce sweating, helping fevers run their course. Fresh ginger grated into hot lemon and honey was for centuries employed to fight off colds and discharge mucus, and a ginger bath is still used to combat stuffed noses due to

DEPARTURE TIME

ARRIVAL TIME

FREQUENCY

U7 202

6:30 Hrs

07:40 Hrs

Monday – Friday Saturday

U7 202

8:30 Hrs

9:40 Hrs

U7 206

12:20 Hrs

13:25 Hrs

Sunday

U7 204

18:30 Hrs

19:40 Hrs

Monday – Saturday

U7 204

18:45 Hrs

19:55 Hrs

Sunday

allergies, sinus trouble, or colds. Containing calcium, carotene, cellulose, iron, lime, pentosans, protein, starch, vitamins B and C, and a small quantity of volatile oil – a fixed oil with high-flavored resinous matter – ginger has digestive properties and is useful as a salt substitute. Modern research has discovered that it eases depression, and its anti-viral qualities help relieve colds and flu, chest congestion, headaches, morning sickness; and is a

NAIROBI – ENTEBBE FLIGHT NUMBER

DEPARTURE TIME

ARRIVAL TIME

FREQUENCY

U7 203

08:15 Hrs

09:25 Hrs

Monday – Friday

U7 203

10:15 Hrs

11:25 Hrs

Saturday

U7 207

13:55 Hrs

15:00 Hrs

Sunday

U7 205

20:20 Hrs

21:30 Hrs

Monday – Saturday

U7 205

20:30 Hrs

21:40 Hrs

Sunday

ENTEBBE – JUBA FLIGHT NUMBER

DEPARTURE TIME

ARRIVAL TIME

FREQUENCY

U7 120

10:25 Hrs

11:25 Hrs

Monday – Thursday

U7 120

14:45 Hrs

15:45 Hrs

Friday

good stimulant and carminative – it stimulates blood circulation

U7 120

12:15 Hrs

13:15 Hrs

Saturday

and is much used for dyspepsia and colic. Ginger boosts poor

U7 120

15:30 Hrs

16:30 Hrs

Sunday

circulation and its pungency and sapid flavour awakens the appetite and disguises the taste of nauseous medicines.

ENTEBBE – NAIROBI FLIGHT NUMBER

Scientists have determined that ginger’s antibiotic qualities

JUBA – ENTEBBE FLIGHT NUMBER

DEPARTURE TIME

ARRIVAL TIME

FREQUENCY

U7 119

12:05 Hrs

13:05 Hrs

Monday – Thursday

U7 119

16:45 Hrs

17:45 Hrs

Friday

or centuries, coveted by Chinese and Indian cooks, ginger,

killed the salmonella bug in test-tube trials. In addition, tests

U7 119

13:55 Hrs

14:55 Hrs

Saturday

in the last few decades, has become revered in many of

have shown that ginger has anti-inflammatory properties and,

U7 119

17:10 Hrs

18:10 Hrs

Sunday

the European and North American kitchens. Forming the

hence, it is used to relieve the painful swelling of arthritis and

bases for innumerable dishes, this seasoning is, today, employed

rheumatism and to ease muscle cramps.

on a large scale in almost every country throughout the globe. A

Laboratory research has established that ginger is as

good number of cooks say that the secret of the world-renowned

effective as standard drugs in treating travel illness, such as

Chinese cuisine is this condiment which some have labelled

sea sickness and car sickness, and nausea in pregnancy. To

‘spice of the ages’.

be effective, travellers should take one gramme dried ginger

Yet, many know that this spice is full of medicinal properties. Some herbalists have labelled it the ‘ultimate in healthy eating’. In the land of its origin, southeastern Asia, ginger was not only used in foods but also as a medicine, revered for its

powder or about five grammes fresh or crystallised ginger half to one hour before departure, then continue to ingest ginger regularly during the journey. In modern China it remains one of the most widely employed

ENTEBBE – ZANZIBAR FLIGHT NUMBER

DEPARTURE TIME

ARRIVAL TIME

FREQUENCY

U7 340

14:30 Hrs

16:55 Hrs

Tuesday & Thursday

U7 340

09:00 Hrs

11:25 Hrs

Sunday

ZANZIBAR – ENTEBBE FLIGHT NUMBER

DEPARTURE TIME

ARRIVAL TIME

FREQUENCY

U7 341

17:25 Hrs

20:00 Hrs

Tuesday & Thursday

U7 341

11:55 Hrs

14:30 Hrs

Sunday

ENTEBBE – DAR ES SALAAM FLIGHT NUMBER

DEPARTURE TIME

ARRIVAL TIME

FREQUENCY

U7 320

08:00 Hrs

09:45 Hrs

Monday & Tuesday

U7 320

14:30 Hrs

16:15 Hrs

Wednesday & Thursday

U7 320

11:40 Hrs

13:25 Hrs

Friday

U7 320

15:15 Hrs

17:00 Hrs

Sunday

therapeutic properties. It was part of external home remedies

drugs. Both fresh and dried roots as well as a liquid extract

such that it was compressed and utilised as an ingredient in

and tincture of ginger are official drugs in the modern Chinese

medical preparations. For thousands of years, known to the

pharmacopoeia. In that country, half of all herbal prescriptions

FLIGHT NUMBER

DEPARTURE TIME

ARRIVAL TIME

FREQUENCY

Chinese as the ‘Gift of God’, it was mentioned in China’s first

include ginger. However, not only in China, but throughout the

U7 321

10:15 Hrs

12:00 Hrs

Monday & Tuesday

Pharmacopoeia, Pen Tsao Ching, written in the mist of time, and

world modern research continues to validate its medicinal

U7 321

16:50 Hrs

18:35 Hrs

Wednesday & Thursday

in Ayurvedic, an ancient medical science in India, it forms the

claims. Recent research has found that ginger has natural meat

U7 321

14:00 Hrs

15:45 Hrs

Friday

basis of many medicines.

tenderising enzymes that can make tough meat palatable and,

U7 321

17:35 Hrs

19:20 Hrs

Sunday

FLIGHT NUMBER

DEPARTURE TIME

ARRIVAL TIME

FREQUENCY

U7 340

14:30 Hrs

16:00 Hrs

Tuesday & Thursday

U7 340

09:00 Hrs

10:30 Hrs

Sunday

According to R. Landry in The Gentle Art of Flavoring, ginger was included in the pharmacopoeia of the Arabs. King Henry VIII of England believed that it could cure the plague and the Indians

as an icing on its beneficial and healing qualities, it tastes good.

DAR ES SALAAM – ENTEBBE

ENTEBBE – MOMBASA

MOMBASA – ENTEBBE

have long made a paste, which they believe keeps away scurvy.

FLIGHT NUMBER

DEPARTURE TIME

ARRIVAL TIME

FREQUENCY

For generations, herb doctors have believed that it fortifies the

U7 341

18:30 Hrs

20:20 Hrs

Tuesday & Thursday

chest and have prescribed ginger tea for arthritis, colds and flu,

U7 341

13:00 Hrs

14:30 Hrs

Sunday

leprosy, tetanus and digestive problems. In Asia, ginger is believed to warm the internal organs and, hence, act as an aphrodisiac. For thousands of years, it has been used externally and internally to increase sexual powers. In some countries, women rub ginger on their bodies or eat gingerbread to attract the opposite sex. In other cultures, a concoction of the spice is prepared to increase virility and combat impotence. Chinese herbal medicine has for centuries employed ginger to boost the immune system, purge the body viruses, and as

44 | air uganda | aug – oct 2010

ENTEBBE – KIGALI FLIGHT NUMBER

DEPARTURE TIME

ARRIVAL TIME

FREQUENCY

U7 350

12:30 Hrs

12:15 Hrs

Monday & Tuesday

U7 350

12:00 Hrs

11:45 Hrs

Wednesday & Thursday

U7 352

16:15 Hrs

16:00 Hrs

Friday

KIGALI – ENTEBBE FLIGHT NUMBER

DEPARTURE TIME

ARRIVAL TIME

FREQUENCY

U7 351

12:45 Hrs

14:30 Hrs

Monday & Tuesday

U7 351

12:15 Hrs

14:00 Hrs

Wednesday & Thursday

U7 353

16:30 Hrs

18:15 Hrs

Friday

For any information contact your preferred Travel Agent or our Sales & Reservation Office on +256 (0) 412 165 555 in KAMPALA.

aug – oct 2010 | air uganda | 45

asante news

Air Uganda and RwandAir Codeshare

asante news

Air Uganda and RwandAir have introduced a codeshare agreement on their flights between Entebbe and Kigali. This will enable both airlines and travel agents to sell tickets on each other’s flights to offer customers the same combinable fares on the same tickets, making it cheaper and simpler for their customers to use both airlines’ flights. This partnership allows passengers to enjoy a day return from both Uganda and Rwanda. With their synchronised schedules, Air Uganda and RwandAir offer passengers morning and evening flights daily between Entebbe and Kigali. Air Uganda operates afternoon flights between Entebbe and Kigali (see flight schedule on page 45) and RwandAir operate a flight out of Kigali in the evening at 1900 hours (local time Kigali), and depart from Entebbe at 2120 hours (local time Entebbe) for Kigali. The codeshare also enables travel agents to sell combinable fares on both airlines using the same ticket. Tickets for these flights can be obtained at travel agents, Air Uganda or RwandAir’s offices in Rwanda, Uganda and throughout East Africa. With similar 50-seater Bombardier (CRJ) aircraft operated by both RwandAir and Air Uganda, passengers are able to enjoy the same level of comfort and speed on whichever airline they travel between Kigali and Entebbe. Air Uganda’s Chief Executive Officer, Hugh Fraser, stated “With this new codeshare agreement, both airlines can provide additional

Above: Mr. Hugh Fraser, Chief Executive Officer of Air Uganda (right) with Mr. Mahmood Manji (centre), Chairman of Air Uganda and

benefits and services to our mutual customers travelling between Entebbe and Kigali”.

Mr. Rene Janata, Chief Executive Officer of RwandAir.

Above: At the recently held Air Uganda Travel forum, Ms. Angella Llingat (left) of Asyanut Safaris and Travel won a two nights accommodation package to Mombasa, Above: Uganda Cranes (Uganda’s National football team) arrives from Nairobi

courtesy of Air Uganda and Leopard Beach Resort and

after they beat Harambee Stars (Kenya’s National football team), to qualify

Spa, Mombasa. Also present on the occasion were Mr.

for the Africa Nations Champions to be held in Sudan in January 2011. Air

Hugh Fraser, Chief Executive Officer of Air Uganda and

Uganda is the official carrier of the Uganda Cranes.

Ms. Sally (right) of Leopard Beach Hotel.

46 | air uganda | aug – oct 2010

aug – oct 2010 | air uganda | 47

HEALTHY TRAVELLING

ROUTE MAP EAmap.pdf

7/13/10

3:34:32 PM

These gentle exercises, which you can carry out easily during your flight, will help blood circulation and reduce any tiredness or stiffness that may result from sitting in one place for several hours. Check with your doctor first if you have any health conditions which might be adversely affected by exercise. Foot pumps: Start with both heels on the

Other Tips for a Comfortable Flight

Knee lifts:

floor and point feet upward

Lift leg with knees bent while

as high as you can. Then

contracting your thigh muscles.

put both feet flat on the

Alternate legs. Repeat 20 to 30

floor. Then lift heels high,

•

For your own comfort try and travel light.

•

Wear loose clothing and elasticated stockings made of natural fibre.

•

Increase your normal intake of water and only if need be, drink alcohol but in moderation.

times for each leg.

keeping the balls of your feet

Juba

on the floor. Continue cycle in 30-second intervals.

Forward flex: With both feet on the floor and stomach held in, slowly bend forward and walk your hands down the front of your legs towards your ankles. Hold the stretch for 15 seconds and slowly sit back up.

Knee to chest: Bend forward slightly. Clasp hands around the left knee and hug it to your chest. Hold stretch for 15 seconds. Keeping hands around knee, slowly let it down. Alternate legs. Repeat 10 times.

•

Use moisturising cream to keep your skin from drying out.

•

Take off shoes in the plane to prevent your feet from swelling up or wear shoes that will cope with expanding ankles.

•

Avoid heavy meals during the flight.

•

Short walks once every two hours are excellent for circulation.

•

Try to touch your toes when waiting in the aisle to stretch your hamstrings.

•

On arrival at your destination, have a hot shower or a relaxing bath.

•

On arrival a quick jog, brisk walk, or a vigorous scrub will help stimulate your circulation.

Shoulder stretch: Reach right hand over left shoulder. Place left hand behind right elbow and gently press elbow toward shoulder. Hold stretch for 15 seconds. Repeat on the other side.

Overhead stretch: Raise both hands straight up over your head. With one hand, grasp the wrist of the opposite hand and gently pull to one side. Hold stretch for 15 seconds. Repeat on the other side.

Arm curl: Start with arms held at a 90-degree angle: elbows down, hands out in front. Raise hands up to chest and back down, alternating hands. Do this exercise in 30-second intervals. 48 | air uganda | aug – oct 2010

CMY

Shoulder roll: Hunch shoulders forward, then upward, then backward, then downward, using a gentle, circular motion.

Ankle circles: Lift feet off the floor, draw a circle with the toes, simultaneously moving one foot clockwise and the other foot counterclockwise. Reverse circles. Do each direction for 15 seconds. Repeat if desired.

Neck roll: With shoulders relaxed, drop ear to shoulder and gently roll neck forward and to the other side, holding each position about five seconds. Repeat five times.

Entebbe

Mombasa

Zanzibar Dar es salaam

aug – oct 2010 | air uganda | 49

AIR UGANDA CONTACTS AND OFFICES

TIPS FOR THE TRAVELLER IN UGANDA

Land Uganda is a compact country, with an area of 236,580 square kilometres – roughly the size of Great Britain.

Kampala Sales Office: Tel: +256 (0) 412 165 555/ +256 (0) 312 165 555 Email: info@air-uganda.com Fax: +256 (0) 414 258 267 Jubilee Insurance Centre, Ground Floor, Plot 14, Parliament Avenue, P. O. Box 36591, Kampala, Uganda. Dar es Salaam Sales Office: Tel: +255 (0) 222 133 331/5/6 +255 (0) 783 111 992 Email: info@air-uganda.com c/o Holiday Africa Tours and Safaris (Opp. Habib African Bank) Indiragandhi Street, P.O. Box 22636 Dar es Salaam, Tanzania. Nairobi Sales Office: Tel: +254 (0)20 313 933 Email: info@air-uganda.com 5th Floor, Jubilee Insurance Building, Wabera Street, Nairobi, Kenya. Mombasa Sales Office: Tel: +254 (0) 412 313 626 Email: Info@air-uganda.com TSS Towers, Nkrumah Road, 1st Floor Mombasa, Kenya. Zanzibar Sales Office: Tel: +255 (0) 242 233 506/7 Email: info@air-uganda.com Cine Afrique Cinema Malindi PO Box 251, Zanzibar, Tanzania. Juba Sales Office: Tel: +256 (0) 477 153 912 Email: info@air-uganda.com Hai Suk Street, (Opp. the Mosque) Juba, Sudan.

Kigali Sales Office: Tel: +250 (0) 252 577 926/ +250 (0) 252 577 928/ +250 (0) 788 380 926/ +250 (0) 722 926 926 Email: info@air-uganda.com Office No. 26 UTC (Union Trade Centre) Building, Town Centre. Kigali, Rwanda. Head Office: Tel: +256 (0) 414 258 262/4 +256 (0) 417 717 401 Fax: +256 (0) 414 500 932 Email: info@air-uganda.com Meridiana Africa Airlines (U) Ltd Plot 11/13, Lower Kololo Terrace P.O.Box 36591, Kampala, Uganda. Entebbe International Airport (Ticketing Office): Tel: +256 (0) 414 321 485 +256 (0) 417 717 222 Email:reservations@air-uganda.com info@air-uganda.com 2nd Floor, Passenger Terminal Building, Entebbe, Uganda. Please Note: After working hours on weekdays (17:45hrs - 21:00hrs), Saturday (14:00hrs - 21:00hrs) and Sunday (07:30hrs - 21:00hrs) Please call our Entebbe ticketing office on Tel: +256 (0) 414 321 485 +256 (0) 417 717 222

Climate Although situated on the equator, Uganda’s relatively high altitude tempers the heat, and humidity is generally low. Throughout the year sunshine averages about 6 to 10 hours a day. There are two rainy seasons: the main long rains, which start late in February and end in April, and the short rains, which start in October and run until about the middle of December. The region around Lake Victoria, however, receives rain at almost any time of the year. Topography It is located on the equator, within the eastern plateau region of the African continent and between the eastern and western ridges of the Great Rift Valley. Near the borders several mountain masses stand out strikingly from the plateaux. Economy Uganda is blessed with fertile soils that support a wide variety of food and export crops, both annual and perennial. Agriculture is the dominant sector of Uganda’s economy. The major traditional export crops are coffee, cotton, tea, horticulture, tobacco and sugar cane, while groundnuts, maize, beans, sorghum and millet have emerged in recent years as cash crops for the peasant farmers. Language English is the official language and is also the medium of instruction in Uganda’s education system, from primary school up to university level. Swahili is also spoken. There are some 30 indigenous languages spoken in the rural areas. The most common of these are Luganda and Luo. Electric supply All installations are of British standard and appliances should be fitted with the square, three-pin plugs of British specifications. The voltage is 240 volts, 50 Hz for domestic use. The voltage fluctuates continually, however, and proper surge protectors are advisable for any expensive equipment. Time Uganda is three hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time (GMT). Time remains constant throughout the year. People The people are warm, friendly, and full of humour. They are anxious to make friends with visitors and are continually asking guests whether they are comfortable and enjoying themselves. A large number of people speak English. Excursions Uganda is beginning to develop an excellent tourist infrastructure, with first-rate roads and communication facilities. Uganda’s national game, forest and recreational parks are indeed some of the spectacular showpieces Africa has to offer. They do have regulations regarding off-theroad driving, game watching, and so on, which are clearly stated at the entrance gates of parks or on leaflets supplied by the tourist offices. Mountaineering safaris to the Ruwenzori Mountains in the western Rift Valley are now becoming a favourite Ugandan expedition. Similar safaris can also be organised to climb Mount Elgon in the east, sharing the border with Kenya. Hotels There are international-standard hotels in Entebbe, Kampala and Jinja, as well as in many of the smaller towns. Camping, rustic bush camps and guest houses are also available. The Kampala Sheraton, the Serena Kampala, the Grand Imperial, and the Nile Hotel, all in the national’s capital are by the best. There are many other less expensive, but quite nice hotels in the city. Outside Kampala, most towns also have a variety of moderately priced and budget hotels. Banking hours There is a wide range of banks in Uganda, particularly in Kampala. Their hours are generally from 0830 to 1400 on weekdays, and Saturdays from 0830 to 1200. Forex bureaux keep longer hours – 0900 to 1700 on weekdays and 0900 to 1300 on Saturdays. ATMs are available in the larger cities. Communications Telephone, Telex, fax and airmail services connect Kampala to all parts of the world. Services are available at the General Post Office and its many branches, as well as in the main hotels. International direct dialling is available and now there are a number of Internet cafes. Medical services Uganda has good health services, with some good government and private hospitals and clinics in the major cities. Air rescue services are available.

50 | air uganda | aug – oct 2010

Currency Uganda Shilling (UGX). Notes are in denominations of UGX 50,000, 20,000, 10,000, 5,000 and 1,000. Coins are in denominations of UGX 500, 200, 100, 50, 20, 10, 5, 2 and 1. You can change money at banks and hotels. Although the forex bureaux usually have better exchange rates. Credit cards International credit cards are accepted in major hotels and shops. Working hours Shops and businesses are generally open from 0830 to 1730 on weekdays, with a lunch break between 1300 and 1400. Some businesses are open on Saturday, at least until midday. Small, local shops or kiosks on the side of many roads are generally open much later, until about 2130 and on weekends and holidays as well; they stock basic food and household items. Public Holidays 2010 1 January 26 January 8 March 2 April 5 April 1 May 3 June 9 June 11 September 9 October 17 November 25 December 26 December

New Year’s Day Liberation Day International Women’s Day Good Friday Easter Monday Labour Day Martyrs’ Day National Heroes’ Day Eid al-Fitr (End of Ramadan) Independence Day Eid al-Adha (Feast of the Sacrifice) Christmas Day Boxing Day

Note:The two Muslim holidays, Eid al-Fitr and Eid al-Adha are timed according to local sightings of various phases of the moon and the dates given above are approximate. Customs Besides personal effects, a visitor may import duty-free spirits (including liquors) or wine up to one litre, perfume and toilet water up to half a litre and 270 grammes of tobacco or 200 cigarettes. Other imported items, not exceeding US$100 may be brought in duty free and without an import licence, provided they are not prohibited or restricted goods, are for personal use, and are not for resale. Note: A special permit is required to export game trophies. Health requirements Visitors from areas infected with yellow fever and cholera required certificates on inoculation. All visitors are advised to take an antimalarial prophylactic beginning two weeks before their arrival and continuing for six weeks after their departure. A gamma globulin injection provides some protection against possible infection by hepatitis and is well worth taking. Visa and immigration requirements Visa applications may be obtained at Uganda diplomatic missions. Two photographs are required for visas, which are usually issued within 24 hours. Visas are also available at the country’s entry points. Check with the Uganda diplomatic mission in your country if visa is required as some countries are exempted. Taxi services Taxis are immediately available at Entebbe International Airport. They can also be found outside most hotels in Kampala and at most of the country’s major centres. All don’t have meters, so make sure the fare is negotiated in advance. Car rental Several firms operate car hire services in Kampala. Vehicles may be hired with or without driver. For trips outside the city it is possible to hire insured cars appropriate for the trip (a four-wheel-drive vehicle with a drivertranslator is recommended). Entebbe International Airport The main point of entry is Entebbe International Airport, about a 30-minute drive south of the capital, Kampala. Although modest, the modern airport does provide automated passenger facilities, currency exchange, postal services, banking facilities, telephoned, duty-free shops, gift shops and a restaurant and bar. Security The same rules apply for Kampala as for almost any city anywhere.Be careful and take the usual precautions to safeguard yourself and your belongings. Do not leave valuables in your car. Walking at night in all major centres is reasonably safe.

aug – oct 2010 | air uganda | 51

CROSSWORD PUZZLE & SUDOKU Crossword Clues across

1. Grow a sponge to find a stinger (4)

3. Southern chill produces reprimand (5) 6. A department of detectives is corrosive (4)

11. To power mixture used to pull (3-4) 12. Unbeatable, and definitely not the same (2, 5)

13. Accommodation, fitted-out but off-key (9, 4) 16. Replies suitable for the laboratory? (7)

17. Doctor combines with some cricket to move cattle (7)

15 17

18. Idea loses a place in disfigurement, and attach

to a motor-cycle (4-3)

21. Definitely a hands-on job! (7)

23. Busy holiday spot is the place for disturbed poor

rural pets (7,6) 23

26. ‘I has gun’ to cause real pain (7) 27. Country formed from rail end (7) 28. This tax has a moral obligation (4) 29. A smart guy, or just a representative (5)

30. Half a game of bowls makes brief theatrical sketch (4) 28

Clues down 1. Keep these about you to stay alert! (4)

Answers down 1. Wits; 2. Sawdust; 4. Creases; 5. Linseed; 7. Courage; 8. Doll; 9. Country cousin; 10. Self-possessed;14. Brush; 15. Usurp; 19. Drought; 20. Road hog; 21. Martian; 22. Earmark; 24. Said; 25. Edit

2. What an observer witnessed at the timber yard? (7) 4. Credit relieves the fold lines (7)

Answers across 1. Wasp; 3. Scold; 6. Acid; 11. Tow-rope; 12. No equal; 13. Furnished flat; 16. Retorts; 17. Drovers; 18. Side-car; 21. Masseur; 23. Popular resort; 26. Anguish; 27. Ireland; 28. Duty; 29. Agent; 30. Skit

5. Des gets mixed up with African river for oil-producing plant (7) 7. Three quarters of an hour in cage – that’s bravery! (7)

Sudoku

8. Idol leaves toy inside (4) 9. Rural relative or maybe one living abroad? (7, 6) 10. In control, sounds like personal ownership (4-9)

Place a number from 1 to 9

14. Sweep or scrub with hurried note (5)

in every empty cell so that

15. Hindu surprise contains seizure without authority (5) 19. Water shortage. Medic ought to end it (7)

3 8 2

each row, each column and each 3x3 box contains all the numbers from 1 to 9. No

20. Go hoard mixture for anti-social motorist (4, 3)

number can appear twice in a

21. Antrim with a disturbed alien (7)

row, column or 3x3 box.

22 Set aside frisky mare to join Noah’s boat (7)

Do not guess – you can work

24 Port from the dais – that’s spoken (4)

it out by a process of

25 Edict minus century, prepare for publication (4)

elimination.

1 6 7

1 5

5 1

2 8 7 2

9 6

6 9

2 8 9

52 | air uganda | aug – oct 2010

5 2

8 4 1