Stowaway Winter 2013 by Brigham Young University Editing Students

Winter 2013

High Adventures High Rewards

With Trekking for Kids, you can get both, p. 22

Photo Credit: See style guide to review credit wording before writing this.

Also in this issue

A Bavarian-American Winter, p. 12 Ticket Through Time, p. 40 Mombasa Highway, p. 60

www.stowawaymag.com â&#x2014;&#x20AC; 1

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www.stowawaymag.com ◀ 3 Hertz On Demand and Rent Spontaneously are trademarks of Hertz System, Inc. Hertz On Demand and Rent Spontaneously are trademarks of Hertz System, Inc. © 2012 The Hertz Corporation. Vehicle featured may not be available at time of rental. © 2012 The Hertz Corporation. Vehicle featured may not be available at time of rental.

On the cover: Volunteers brave the snow in Nepal, heading for Mount Everest.

Editor’s Note: Paint Your Perspective

Happenings: Dogsled Destinations: Mushing around the World

Escapades: Make Your Own Valentine Escape

Staff Essay: More Than Mango Juice

Parting Shot

4 ▶ winter 2013

A BavarianAmerican Winter

You’re Invited: The Inauguration Celebration

The Other Side of the Coin: Albanian Treasures

16 18

Nightlights in Norway Nainital: City in the Clouds

Features

Getaways

Photo by Jack Donaldson

High Adventures, High Rewards

Dubai—More Than Desert

Pave Your Own Pilgrimage

Ticket through Time

Capturing Copenhagen

Then You Jump: ArtInspiring Locations

50 54

When in Rome

Bringing Hungary Home

Poblanos: Four Corners of the Kitchen

We Survived 2012: What Do the Maya Really Believe?

Mombasa Highway: A Bumpy Path to the Beauties of Kenya

62 64

The Stowaways

Chinatown: Beyond the Gate

A Forgotten Generation: Serving the Elderly Abroad

72 74

Tales from the Trip

Hang on Tight: Wild Animal Rides

Photo Contest Winners

Insider

Field Notes

Culture

Photo by Talha Çakır

The sun bathes a wall of Rozafa Castle near Shkodër in northwestern Albania, one of the country’s most beloved historical sites.

Going Undercover: Fashionably 007

80 82

Telltale Souvenirs

On the Plane to Anywhere

Grand Central’s Grand Centennial

Hidden in the Mist: A Māori Legend

So They Lost Your Luggage?

www.stowawaymag.com ◀ 5

Jenny Spencer

Managing Editor

Coleman Bonham

Sarah Petersen

Aaron Airmet

Julie Ogborn

Audrey E. Blake

Assistant Managing Editor

Copyeditor

Senior Editor

Mindy Leavitt

Senior Editor

Nichole Eck

Lauren Grange

Mandy Teerlink

Juliana G. Cox

Associate Editor

Art Director

Assistant Art Director

Bethanie Thatcher

Assistant Managing Editor

Assistant Art Director

Web Team: *Audrey E. Blake, Juliana G. Cox, Mindy Leavitt, Julie Ogborn, Sarah Petersen Social Media Team: Coleman Bonham, Nichole Eck, *Lauren Grange, Clarise Insch, Bethanie Thatcher, Tracee Tibbitts Business Team: Aaron Airmet, *Haley Frame Haley Frame

Clarise Insch

Tracee Tibbitts

Senior Designer

*team leader

Marvin K. Gardner

Editor-in-Chief

Jordan Carroll

Advisor

6 ▶ winter 2013

Christina Johnson

Advisor

Eugene Tapahe

Advisor

Stowaway is produced as a project for English Language 430R, Editing for Publication, the capstone class of the editing minor at Brigham Young University. The views expressed in this publication are solely the views of the authors and do not represent the views or opinions of BYU. Stowaway takes inspiration from the words of Mark Twain: “Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn’t do than by the ones you did. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover.”

Photography by Rachel Haslam

Photo Credit: See style guide to review credit wording before writing this.

All staff members contributed to planning, writing, editing, designing, and advertising.

editor’s note

Illustration by Steve Mohundro; photo by Sara Vaz

As the daughter of a backpacking guru, I constantly heard the phrase, “Always leave your surroundings better than how you found them.” In my travels across the globe, I’ve realized that this concept is true not only of places but of people too— especially ourselves. Some experiences always leave us better than how we began: a fresh stamp in our passport, a gyro in Greece, a hug from a child in Kenya. These are not just items on our itinerary; they can color how we perceive the vast world that awaits us. I have come to learn that experiencing another part of the world is far different than merely visiting it. Sometimes I find myself longing to see the world’s most renowned destinations without giving any thought to understanding the people who live there. Too often, we view the world’s wonders without actually changing our view of the world: When we visit the Taj Mahal, do we

also barter in the market streets of Agra? When we look at the Eiffel Tower, do we also stop to chat with the artist selling watercolors on the street? If we take the time to experience a city instead of simply visiting a city, then that place leaves us better than how it found us. If not, we miss a chance at a life-changing experience. Before I left the United States, I had a rather narrow perspective of the world. But as I traveled to places like England, France, and even Madagascar, I learned that my perspective was like a blank canvas just waiting to be transformed into a masterpiece of understanding. In London, I felt that my canvas received a coat of bright, tennis-court green and a few touches of propriety. My days in Paris added a few strokes of rosy pink, convincing me that romance and symbolism were in every café and under every bridge. But my six months in Madagascar

Jenny Spencer Managing Editor

added the warmest colors to my perspective: rich browns put propriety into perspective, and earthy oranges taught me that life is not always as rosy as it might seem. Brush stroke after brush stroke, my dull canvas was crafted into a colorful work of art. Through this process, not only was my mind enlightened but my perspective was also transformed. Once we understand the cultures and people that share our beautiful world, we cannot return to who we used to be—or how we used to see. You can begin the transformation now by losing yourself in this issue of Stowaway. Experience the joy of serving orphans, paving your own pilgrimage, and discovering real people in the streets of their hometowns. So go ahead. Pick up that brush, paint a new perspective, and leave your surroundings—and yourself— better than they were before.

happenings

Dogsled Destinations Mushing Around the World Check out how man’s best friend gets around across the globe. —Tracee Tibbitts

Extreme Dog Sports Races and events involving our favorite furry friends also dot the globe during the snowless months of the year. Check your destination or hometown to see what zany canine activities are happening. ▶▶

Canicross: Runners are attached to dogs by harnesses and ropes for added speed.

▶▶

Bikejoring: A team of dogs is attached to a bike, while cyclists bike across dry land.

▶▶

Dog scootering: Dogs pull a human riding on an unmotorized scooter.

▶▶

Dog carting or Dryland mushing: A dog pulls a human riding in a cart.

Anchorage–Nome, Alaska

Known as the “Last Great Race on Earth,” the Iditarod is renowned worldwide. The race begins in Anchorage and ends in Nome, Alaska. Teams of 12 to 16 dogs traverse over 1500 miles of rural wilderness in just 10 to 17 days. Mushers travel from around the world to participate by racing their way through blizzards, high winds, and cold temperatures sometimes as low as –100° F (–73° C), all with a loyal team of huskies. Mushers will be hitting the trails on March 1, 2013. ▶▶

8 ▶ winter 2013

www.iditarod.com

Hayward, Wisconsin

The Barkie Birkie Skijor Race offers a 3 km or 5 km race. Skijoring, which gets its name from a Norwegian word meaning ski driving, is a sport that combines cross–country skiing and dogsledding—skiers are tied to their dogs, and they both race to the finish. Most dogs weigh 30 pounds or more and can be trained to pull skiers (participants must be at least 13 years old). Skiers and their loyal pups will race through the city of Hayward on February 22, 2013. ▶▶

www.birkie.com

Kostroma, Russia

Illustrations by Cody Hartar

Røros, Norway

The largest long–distance race in Europe, the Femundløpet takes place each year in Norway, starting and ending in the historic mining town of Røros. The 2013 Femundløpet takes place from January 31 to February 5. Dogs and their mushers compete against each other and the elements: temperatures can reach as low as –58 °F (–50 °C), and high winds, snowstorms, and whiteouts often threaten the teams. The trail runs through hiking and wilderness areas, including sites where reindeer herds live, so participants are asked to respect the land and its wildlife. ▶▶

www.femundlopet.no

Saignelégier, Switzerland

The International Sled Dog Races and Nordic Dog Festival take place the last weekend of January each year with around 120 teams and 800 dogs traveling to this city to compete. Other events here include a sledding race, trapper courses (where participants are taught how to track and hunt animals), sleigh rides for children, a dog fashion show, igloo building, quality reindeer bonding time, and Nordic trivia contests. All this and more will be happening at this year’s festival. ▶▶

www.sde–saignelegier.ch

The North Hope Sled Dog Center is an orphanage where young boys raise and work with sled dogs to learn about commitment and love. Many of the boys continue their work at the center when they are grown, hosting events like the North Hope Sled Dog Race, which will take place from February 16 to 24. In addition to races for teams of six or eight dogs, a skijor race, sprint run, junior race, and family fun relay are also available. The younger crowd can enjoy a kids’ charity run, opportunities to play in the snow, and children’s art exhibits. ▶▶

www.nordhope.com

Check out more dogsledding destinations online!

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Getaways Young women in Nainital, India, dress up for an auspicious day.

For a Weekend

For a Week

For a While

Experience two Washingtons this winter: Visit Leavenworth, Washington, for a Bavarian-American paradise, or take part in the presidential inaugural celebrations in Washington, DC.

Explore ancient Albanian castles, or sample nighttime skiing in Norway.

Photo by Coleman Bonham

Escape to the Himalayan city of Nainital—a relaxing retreat unlike the usual bustle and heat of India.

www.stowawaymag.com ◀ 11

away for a weekend

❆❆

winter ❄ ❆

A Bavarian-American

A cultural weekend in Leavenworth, Washington, can be the perfect winter escape. Nestled in a cozy valley only two hours from Seattle, the village of Leavenworth combines wintry outdoor adventures and German traditions to help visitors leave behind the winter blues. Embark to this Bavarian wonderland without a passport, and enjoy the beautiful, picturesque charm of Leavenworth.

A couple explores a festive downtown street in Leavenworth, Washington.

Couple’s Getaway

Leavenworth can be the perfect weekend retreat for a couple. Around the town, shopping immerses visitors in the Bavarian culture, which is uniquely preserved by its 25% native German population. Many of the shops resemble gingerbread houses with ornate woodwork and steeply pitched roofs and sell authentic Bavarian goods, such as chocolate, nutcrackers, cuckoo clocks, and handmade clothing. The hospitality of Leavenworth even carries over to sleeping accommodations. Brendi Perkins, a regular visitor to the town, describes the Enzian Inn as having a couple-friendly ambience, while incorporating Bavarian culture into the experience.

12 ▶ winter 2013

The owner of the inn, Bob Johnson, hails from Germany and has a tradition of playing an instrument called the Alphorn to rouse the town to action every morning. Two outdoor activities that may stoke the romantic mood are crosscountry skiing and sleigh riding. As you ski along Icicle River, you’ll find the best view of the Cascade Mountains and of Leavenworth’s picturesque downtown. And as you curl up with your sweetheart in a horsedrawn sleigh, don’t forget to notice the scenery. “The mountains are covered in snow,” says Perkins, “and it is just gorgeous!” Enjoy your weekend at Leavenworth’s winter oasis. ▶▶

www.enzianinn.com

Any crowd can experience Leavenworth in the wintertime by sampling town culture through festivals. The Bavarian Ice Fest, held at the end of January, captures traditional winter activities like dogsledding and ice sculpture contests. It also includes more unique traditions like smooshing, an event in which contestants strap boards to their feet and attempt to run along a course. For a more adventurous group, the proximity of the Cascade Mountains allows for a vast range of recreation such as skiing, tubing, ice climbing, snowmobiling, and snowshoeing. If you don’t have the gear, Leavenworth Outfitters Outdoor Center, Der Sportsmann, and Leavenworth Mountain Sports all offer ski, snowboard, and snowshoe rentals at reasonable prices. For a change of pace, visit Leavenworth’s Nutcracker Museum. It may seem odd, but the museum is one of the largest nutcracker collections in the world, with approximately 6,000 nutcrackers. In May and June 2013, the museum will hold an amateur nutcracker-carving contest, with the winning nutcracker earning permanent residence in the museum. ▶▶

www.nutcrackermuseum.com

▶▶

www.leavenworth.org

—Mandy Teerlink

Photo by J. McPherskesen

Group Getaway

away for a weekend

You’re Invited The Inauguration Celebration

Morning Be part of the crowd that lines the streets from the White House to the Capitol. President Obama and his wife, Michelle, will ride alone to Capitol Hill. When there is a new president, the current president and the president-elect first have a brief meeting at the White House and then ride together with their spouses to the swearing-in ceremony at the Capitol.

Photo by Matt G. Borowick

Before Noon Definitely arrive early in order to snag the best spot on the lawn at the Capitol for the swearing-in ceremony; in the past, there have been up to 400,000 people in attendance. Here, newly re-elected President Obama will again quote from the US Constitution: “I do solemnly swear (or affirm) that I will faithfully execute the Office of President of the United States, and will to the best of my Ability, preserve, protect and defend the Constitution of the United States.”

Following the Oaths Listen in as President Obama delivers the Inaugural address from the east

front portico of the Capitol, which in recent years has been the traditional location. When a new president is elected, he escorts the former president and vice president, along with their spouses, down the Capitol stairs to their waiting helicopter. On this inauguration day, the president and vice president will simply proceed to the Inaugural luncheon.

Afternoon After the luncheon, watch the newly sworn–in president and vice president and their spouses as they ride in the Inaugural parade down Pennsylvania Avenue to the White House. You’ll see military and citizens’ groups, as well as marching bands and floats. For spectators, there will be both ticketed areas and areas open to the public.

Evening The Inaugural balls have quickly become a favorite event for many who attend the celebration, especially because several tickets have become affordable (or even free). There are numerous unofficial balls, but there are also several official Inaugural balls: Commander–in–Chief Ball, Neighborhood Ball, Eastern Ball,

January 21, 2013. President Barack Obama’s inauguration. Even though you probably weren’t invited to the formal luncheon with the president and his friends, there are still plenty of events you can enjoy. Here are five events to attend this year. Midwestern Ball, Mid–Atlantic Ball, the President’s Home State Ball, and the Vice President’s Home State Ball. The Inauguration offers something for everyone. But if you can’t make it to the nation’s capital city, plan your own Inaugural party at home and enjoy watching history take place from a distance.

—Sarah Petersen

If you are planning on attending the earlier events, save a spot along the parade route before the events begin. Also, several roads will be closed and parking will be limited. The best way to get to any of the events will be by the metro. ▶▶

www.wmata.com

Get tips on getting tickets and cool facts about past inagurations online. www.stowawaymag.com ◀ 13

away for a week

ther Side

The

of the

Coin

Albanian Treasures

14 â&#x2013;ś winter 2013

If you aren’t familiar with the beautiful Balkan sites that Albania has to offer, you have access to an innovative guidebook: your wallet. The bills and coins of Albanian currency, the Lek, portray several of the country’s most notable and symbolic sites. By studying the backs of Albanian currency, you can take a week to visit national sites hand-picked over the years by the locals.

Krujë Castle 1,000 and 5,000 Lek

Rozafa Castle, Shkodër

Photo by Richard Hunt

1 Lek

A connecting flight from Tirana, the country’s capital, to the northern airport of Shkodër will put you a short bus ride away from the Rozafa Castle, pictured on the 1 Lek banknote. The 2,000-year-old castle is located high on a hill just outside the historic town of Shkodër. According to legend, the builders believed that a human sacrifice was necessary to keep the walls from collapsing. Rozafa, the wife of one of the original constructors of the castle, agreed to be entombed within the castle walls on the condition that half her body remain exposed so that she could care for her infant child. Her story of dedication serves as a symbol of love and sacrifice to modern Albanians. The castle has been inhabited by Illyrians (ancient Albanians), Romans, Ottomans, and Venetians throughout its long existence. When at the castle, be sure to view what these inhabitants saw as you gaze over the picturesque countryside and explore the winding tunnels and caves in the area.

A 90-minute bus ride from Shkodër will take you to Krujë Castle, which has been featured on two different bills in the country’s history. This edifice houses the Skanderbeg Museum, named for Lord George Kastrioti Skanderbeg, who defended Albania from the Ottoman Empire’s military attacks for over 25 years and through three extended sieges. Since then, Skanderbeg and Krujë Castle have symbolized national strength and tenacity. After touring Krujë Castle’s museum, investigate the bazaar on the castle grounds and visit the war surplus stores, rug merchants, and trinket sellers.

Berat Castle 10 Lek

The road from Krujë to Berat is a two-and-a-half-hour trip with two possible routes. The first route takes you within minutes of the country’s two largest cities: Tirana and Elbasan. The second route takes you westward, along Albania’s coast, where you can stop and bask in the Caribbean-like feel of the white-sand Ksamil beach before you arrive in Berat.

The Berat Castle began as a collection of wooden buildings in the fourth century BC and has been renovated three times since then after wars, raids, and pollution. It is one of the cleaner, more modern ancient structures in Albania. In fact, it still houses tenants. Visitors can drop by churches and shops within the structure or chat with modern residents who spend every day within the castle’s historic walls. Guides are available at the entrance gate but aren’t necessary to explore this beautiful, modern setting.

Roman Amphitheater, Butrint 2,000 Lek

The last leg of this journey is a threehour bus ride from Berat to the southern coastal tip of Albania. The ancient Roman remains in Butrint are perhaps the most famous ruins in Albania; they were named as a United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) World Heritage site in 1992. The most stunning feature is an ancient Roman amphitheater, but this age-old site also boasts a Byzantine basilica, a Roman temple with mosaic floors, and a carved, lion-headed gate. Treat yourself to soaking in the sun’s rays at the nearby dark-sand Mali i Robit beach or at the shale and pebble Saranda beach. With the rest of the Lek found in your “guidebook,” buy a delicious Greek salad or a few Albanian pastries before your flight from Saranda back home after a charming week in Albania.

—Nichole Eck

www.stowawaymag.com ◀ 15

away for a week

Nightlights in Norway “It’s kind of magical—skiing on the lit tracks with lots of snow and everything dark on each side of you,” says Runar Gundersen. Like Gundersen, you too can escape winter hibernation and lethargy by discovering the magical ski trails in Norway.

Even with minimal amounts of natural light during the day, Norway offers liberation from the winter blues by constantly inviting all to get outside and ski off the weight of the day. Norway’s 2,500 machine-groomed ski trails, cared for by the national government, are open to everyone. And best of all, when the sun goes down— sometimes as early as 3:00 pm during the winter—the trails are lit with miles and miles of brilliant lampposts. After a long day at the office, Gundersen, 60, arrives at his home in Drammen, straps on his crosscountry skis, and hits the trail. In Drammen alone, there are 35 miles of ski trails beckoning winter-weary souls to escape the restraints of the indoors. Skiing on the trail is “very liberating,” he says. Most of the trails in Drammen stay lit until 11:00 pm, with some remaining lit until as late as 1:00 am, allowing for indulgence of even the slightest active whim.

Get Acquainted with Nature

Gundersen has skied on the trails by his house since he was 4 years old. With a lineage in Drammen dating back to 1600, Gundersen followed his parents’ and grandparents’ examples. From the time he could walk, he was on skis, exploring the forests of

16 ▶ winter 2013

Drammen and listening to the sounds of the trail. He chooses not to listen to music as he skis the trails because he prefers a genuine experience with nature, which for him includes spotting animals like birds, foxes, and even moose. The trails present the perfect opportunity to not only appreciate nature but also spend time with friends and family. Protected as they are by spruce and pine trees, and since the prospect of the sun going down isn’t an issue, the well-groomed trails are perfect for parents out for a ski with their children. Karen and Kjell Tore, longtime residents of Bergen, Norway, say that while their kids were growing up, they skied as a family two to three times a week. Now that their children are grown, the Tores still enjoy nature and each other’s company on the trails. The trail experience is heightened by its universal accessibility: unlike downhill ski resorts, there are no lifts to bother with on these Norwegian trails, and unlike costly gym facilities, there is no user fee. Gundersen describes why using the trails is a better solution than working out at a gym: “To me, the benefits are many. I have never seen a reason for doing aerobic training inside when you have nature. Why pay for something that you can do for

free? The air is much better outside. You don’t get the experience of nature inside. You can’t cross-country ski inside!”

Follow the Crowd

Around 40,000 people flock to Drammen every February to witness the annual World Cup Cross Country ski sprint competition. Even though he could easily watch the event on TV, Gundersen attends every year. “The spectators are fantastic,” he says. “There is a lot of noise and cheering.” At the height of winter’s doldrums, sharing in the energy at the sprint competition and seeing the pros perform may be exactly the motivation you need to get out there on the trails yourself. February is the perfect time to get excited about cross-country skiing, to watch the best compete, and to experience the magic for yourself on the trails. When the sun goes down, remember Norway’s trails are lighting up in preparation for the lucky ones gearing up to ski. Refuse to let winter rob your vivacious spirit: step out into the night and breathe in the fresh air. ▶▶

www.skiingnorway.com

▶▶

www.skisporet.no

—Haley Frame

Photo by Henrik Stabell

Shed Those Winter Blues

away for a week

Tracks mark the path of those who have ventured onto this Norwegian ski trail during a glistening evening.

www.stowawaymag.com â&#x2014;&#x20AC; 17

away for a while

NAINITAL

City in the Clouds

When most people think of India, they rightly imagine a place very different from Nainital, an alpine town high in the country’s Himalayan peaks. They imagine a clamor of rickshaws, women in garish colors, raucous excitement, and, above all, a cloying heat, which pervades most of India. But Nainital’s dreamscape of cloud is India, too. Just 73 miles (117 km) from the edge of Nepal, its clean cobblestones reach up into the Himalayas and distinguish Nainital from the India that many travelers know and love. Explore a Labyrinth

Savor a Mountain Retreat

Float in a Cloud

Catch Your Breath

Nainital’s market stretches along Relax at the Hotel Anamika, one of Nainital’s most hospitable inns, nestled stone pathways, up through steep hills, on one side of the mountain valley. From a warm room on a frosty and into stone-carved balconies of restaurants morning, guests can overlook the glacial lake and the colorful that pour out the scents of otherworldly foods. town that springs out of the mountains surrounding it. Alluring steams of curries are so powerful they might at Many visitors are writers and artists seeking inspiraany moment lift an unsuspecting traveler into the cloud bank. tion or hikers scaling a nearby peak. Others The twisting paths reveal shops of items out of place in most of include couples and friends enjoying an India: plush sweaters and intricately woven blankets, tidy wool vests and escape from the ordinary on romantic berets (peculiarly, worn only by old men). As the roads lead past the shops and holidays, where nothing but into the mountains, travelers who are game for a long climb can follow them to room service will interrupt find scenic picnicking spots overlooking the valley. their reverie.

India is sometimes sensationalized as a bizarre, riotous place, but Nainital shows an ethereal side to the country’s infinite variety. This transcendent landscape of cliffs and clouds is the perfect place to escape reality for a little while and to wake up refreshed and inspired. ▶▶

www.anamikahotelnainital.com

—Coleman Bonham

18 ▶ winter 2013

Photo by Coleman Bonham

Through the center of Nainital, colA train will get you close to Nainital, but the last leg of the journey orful wooden boats slip trancelike across is by car or horse. Roadside tour guides offer the chance to ride the glassy lake. Visitors can take a boating tour horseback into the surreally beautiful valley, and in the crisp of the town for 150 rupees (about US$3) each. At one morning air, this opportunity is impossible to resist. end of the lake, warm sandalwood smoke rises from the When the horses clip–clop beneath the cloud Hindu temple; at the other end, a white-tiled mosque stretches bank, the fog shrouding the town rolls back out languidly along the shore. Between these two, a cliff defines the dramatically like a curtain. The riders long edge of the lake. An ethereal canopy of trees rises majestically out of the gasp, their hearts pounding at the rock, obscuring both colorful homes and the pathways darting back and forth to steepness and beauty of the connect them. valley below.

away for a while

www.stowawaymag.com â&#x2014;&#x20AC; 19

TANZANIA FEB. 16-28, 2013

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Features Photo by José Antonio Morcillo Valenciano

Bodh Gaya monks inhale scents from fragrant flowers as they request a favor from Buddha.

High Adventures, High Rewards

Dubai—More Than Desert

Pave Your Own Pilgrimage

Ticket through Time

Hike the world’s tallest summits and serve the world’s humblest orphans at the same time.

Meet modernity and antiquity in this exotic city of the sands.

Follow the footsteps of Buddha, the Apostle Paul, and Muhammad.

Travel back to the golden eras of Chicago, Hong Kong, and Paris.

www.stowawaymag.com ◀ 21

High Adventures HIGH REWARDS

With Trekking for Kids, you can get both. By Jenny Spencer 22 â&#x2013;ś winter 2013

Photo by Bryan Hall

www.stowawaymag.com â&#x2014;&#x20AC; 23

Kilimanjaro.

Everest. Annapurna. Machu Picchu. Each of these locations is a dream destination on bucket lists around the globe. The goal of reaching these exotic mountaintops may seem beyond your grasp. But Trekking for Kids is helping dreams come true—changing the lives of adventurers and orphans all over the world. As if planting your feet on the summit of Kilimanjaro isn’t epic enough, that moment can now be even more life changing. A Trekking for Kids expedition combines the high adventure of hiking to an iconic destination with love, service, and authentic cultural experiences. Instead of taking a vacation merely for the prospect of pretty pictures, you can make a difference in the lives of orphans in need of hope—and you can find a new perspective of the world around you. As you leave your footprints across the earth by helping some of its most needy inhabitants, your travels will start leaving footprints of their own on your heart.

Finding the Right Footing Trekking for Kids, a nonprofit organization based in Washington, DC, started as a simple idea during a

24 ▶ winter 2013

conversation over dinner in 2005. Ana Maria Montero and her brother José were discussing plans for an upcoming trip up the Incan Trail when they realized that their vacation could be more than just another thrilling hike. They began searching for ways to serve the community near the Andes, and their father, Pepe, inspired them to search for orphanages in Cusco. Pepe had lost his parents years earlier during the Spanish Civil War. Knowing about their father’s own childhood hardships, the Montero siblings understood that the best way to help Peru would be to help its children. José and Ana Maria found an orphanage that provided care for disabled children, and they quickly turned their dream of hiking to Machu Picchu into a more gratifying two-part project. The Monteros’ love of children and hiking was contagious among their friends, and before long, many people were helping to organize the trek up the Incan Trail. Companies like Recreation Outlet and Brandfire provided donations for the trekkers and the orphans. The Monteros and their band of friends raised more than $16,000 to spend on improving the orphanage.

When the group finally set off for that first trip to Peru, they took with them braille typewriters, toys, and clothing for more than 100 blind and deaf children. After a few days of playing Santa Claus with the orphans and working to improve the orphanage, the trekkers let the children enjoy the new toys and supplies while they hiked to the ruins of the Incas in Machu Picchu. Little did the hikers realize that this excursion would become the inaugural trip of an organization destined to change the lives of many more adventurers and orphans around the world.

Fastening into Strong Footholds Since that maiden Incan Trail trek, every trek still follows the same pattern and entails both segments: visiting and working at an orphanage and then parting ways with the children to hike some of the most awe-inspiring mountains in the world. Long before trekkers arrive in the country, both the orphanage and the trekkers are preparing for the trip. Every participant is required to raise $1,000 that

From top: photography by Kristin Bird and Bryan Hall

“They’re laughing, screaming, jumping on you. From that day forward, you’re like their best friend.”

Above: Sarah Nelson plays with a little Nepalese girl during the trip to Everest in 2010. Below: A little girl in Peru reads a book in braille given to her school during the first trek in 2006.

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family

“By the end of that hike, .” you’re like

Trekkers take a rest on an altitude acclimation day on their trek to the Everest Base Camp in 2010.

will be used in its entirety to fund improvement projects at the orphanage. Before the trekkers even meet the children, the orphanages use the donated money to hire local laborers to start repairing or improving the orphanage. When the trekkers arrive, they meet the orphans and help finish the major projects that their sponsors funded. Painting, landscaping, and installing furniture are often tasks allotted to the trekkers. They typically spend three to four days at the orphanage, working hard on the improvements and playing games with the children. “The first day is always the same,” says Tricia Donaldson, director of operations and logistics for Trekking for Kids. “The kids are a little shy, a little reserved.” But as soon as the hikers bring out the soccer balls, jump ropes, and toys, the fun begins. “They’re laughing, screaming, jumping on you. From that day forward, you’re like their best friend.” At an orphanage in Cusco, Jimena, a little blind girl with jet-black hair, became quick friends with Amy Cook

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and Amy Spencer, two of the trekkers. Even though they had the same first name, Jimena knew exactly which woman was which. She quickly memorized the difference between one Amy and the other by touching their faces and listening to them speak. Even though Jimena couldn’t see her visitors or understand their English, she could feel their genuine affection. Melanie Hall, who participated in the first trip to Peru, vividly remembers Jimena and the other children at the orphanage. “They have so little, and yet they’re so happy,” she says. “It really makes you think about your own life.” Most trekkers have similar reactions, and they return from thirdworld countries with gratitude and a new desire to help others. Gina Giambruno, a wife and mother, came back from her adventure and decided to return to college after many years to earn her master’s degree in public health. This radical change came about after she met one little boy in Thailand who had been beaten before he reached the orphanage. “He didn’t trust anybody,” Giambruno says. “Even

when I would put my hand on his shoulder, he would flinch.” Giambruno thought about that boy as she trekked through the jungles of Thailand and Laos. After the hike, she and the others returned for the customary final party where they reunited with the orphans to celebrate the completion of the work projects. At the party, the children and the trekkers wrote notes to each other on brightly colored paper lanterns and then sent them floating into the night sky. As Giambruno sat with her new little friend, she was astonished to read “I love you” written in Thai on his paper lantern. “It was really heartwarming,” she says. Her experience with this shy little boy instilled in her the desire to return to college to earn a degree that would allow her to help other children in similar situations.

Following the Footsteps But it’s not just the kids who leave footprints on the hikers’ hearts— it’s also the switchbacks up the

Photo by Jack Donaldson

mountain, the view from the top, and especially the friendships made along the way. After spending a few days at the orphanage, hikers untangle themselves from the children’s arms and leave for the hike of a lifetime. On foreign terrain, a small crew of adventure seekers can be transformed from complete strangers to a close-knit family in a matter of days. “After sharing four days, six days, or even eight days of difficulty and adverse conditions, by the end of that hike, you’re like family,” Donaldson says. “When it gets challenging, we often think about the kids that we met at the orphanage and how they’ve had hard challenges in their lives that we can’t even imagine. That pushes a lot of us who are struggling along the trails.” The 75 miles to Everest Base Camp or 52 miles to Kilimanjaro definitely provide trekkers ample soul- searching time to reflect on their own lives and those of the orphans. In Ecuador, the group took on a more ambitious adventure, scaling ice glaciers to the summit of Cotopaxi. They completed this feat in

six days, covering a distance of nearly 45 miles and an elevation of nearly 20,000 feet. “With a summit climb, you’re roped together, and it’s really intense,” Hall says. A summit climb like Cotopaxi differs from a hike such as the Mayan Highlands because every person is harnessed in a group, dependent upon one another. In situations like those, trust is vital—the kind of trust that can lead to lifelong bonds. Trekkers often begin planning the next trip with their new friends while still on their first expedition— and they stay in contact with each other all throughout the year. Laura Mann, a college-aged traveler, says that the unity created among the hikers is one of the most compelling aspects of the organization. “It’s not about who’s the fastest or the strongest,” she says. “You have a whole support system around you as you’re hiking.” These adventurers have realized that traveling the world solely for their own enjoyment is not enough. They know that helping those who live in these exotic locations is what creates

Climbing to New Heights If you can walk, you can trek. And signing up for an expedition with Trekking for Kids is easier than you think. Start blazing your own trail across the world. This year, the organization will be hiking Kilimanjaro in February, Machu Picchu in June, and Everest Base Camp in October. Find out how you can leave your own footprints on the world at www.trekkingforkids.org.

the most meaningful memories—and the most lasting friendships. They have felt the impact of the treks on their goals and especially their attitudes. “When you go into it feeling like you’re giving something,” Donaldson says, “you realize at the end that you’re the one who received.”

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The Burj Khalifa is an architectural manifestation of Dubaiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s progress.

More Than Desert

Photo by Muhammad Al-Qatam

By Tracee Tibbitts

In the heart of the Middle East lies Dubai, the shining pearl of the Persian Gulf. Dubai is one of seven emirates, or political territories, that joined together to form the modern–day nation of the United Arab Emirates (UAE). The UAE is bordered by the Arabian Gulf to the north and

the east, Saudi Arabia to the west, and Oman to the south. The UAE is known as a progressive and peaceful nation, and Dubai— an emirate–turned–modern–city of three million residents—has grown to become so glamorous that it is known as “the Las Vegas of the Middle East.”

This contemporary city preserves Arabian tradition and Muslim values while embracing new technology, innovation, and cultures. Skyscrapers grace the skyline, and man–made islands and underwater hotels lie in nearby waters. Yet the city still boasts many traditional elements found not

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only in thousands of mosques but also in historic forts and in markets called souqs. Because of its pivotal location between the Mediterranean Sea and the Indian Ocean, Dubai was established as a trade center on the route between Asia and Europe as early as AD 750. When oil was discovered in Dubai in 1966, the economy quickly expanded. With revenue from the newly found oil, Dubai transformed from a quiet town into a booming city—under the rule of Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid al–Maktoum,

who encouraged commerce and tourism. Since then, Dubai has continued to expand, emerging today as one of the most prosperous cities in the world.

Culture Clash?

Walking through the streets of Dubai, you’ll often find yourself among throngs of people from around the globe. Turbans, baseball caps, and hijabs (veils or scarfs worn by some Muslim women to cover their hair and neck) are everywhere. You may notice that people on the streets are of all colors and cultures: Sri Lankan,

Palestinian, Canadian, Albanian. While nearly every culture and country is represented in Dubai, only 19% of residents in the UAE are of national Emirati descent. Many people have found a comfortable lifestyle in Dubai, since companies are willing to pay employees well for uprooting themselves. Izzat Dajani, a resident of Dubai, says, “Dubai made it easy over the years for people to move here not just for work but to live and even retire.” While you might think that this fusion of cultures would lead to conflict and culture clash, Kerri–Ann Prince, an American expatriate who has lived in Dubai for several years, thinks otherwise. “Dubai was and is still a trade center,” she says. “The city has always been very open to other cultures.” Dajani agrees that the culmination of many nationalities has created something unique and beautiful in Dubai: “The prime objective for most who come to work and live in Dubai is economic. Most keep focused on that objective and in the process learn to work and live with other nationalities and beliefs. It builds tolerance. . . . It at least lets people listen.”

Above: While camels aren’t used for transportation nowadays, camel rides are available for visitors. Below: Dubai represents modern innovation in architecture.

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Since the culture and essence of Dubai is grounded in traditional Middle Eastern culture and Muslim conservatism, the influx of modernity has left its mark on this city. Once a sandy desert, the rising city of Dubai preserves its culture while embracing the twenty-first century. History can be seen in Dubai because Emiratis work to preserve their ancient culture. Tradition is everywhere, with historic sites and cultural activities penetrating daily life. The Al Fahidi Fort, built in 1787, is the oldest building in Dubai. The fort houses the Dubai Museum, where visitors can learn about the history of the region, view antiques dating back to 3000 BC, and admire historic artifacts from Dubai. The fort

From top: photography by Pete Barber and Nesos

Traditional Dubai

Adventures in Arabic While nearly everyone in Dubai speaks English, that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t learn a few key phrases of Arabic to impress the locals and show respect to your hosts. Here’s a start:

Marhaba

Hello

Asalam’alaykum Welcome

Photo by Martin Muller

Skyscrapers and hotels glisten in the water near the Dubai Mall.

was built to guard the surrounding area from invaders and has also been used as a ruler’s palace, a garrison, and a prison. Souqs preserve the traditional Arabian shopping experience. Souqs are usually divided into sections of stores selling similar items. For example, spice souqs are made up of vendors in small stalls selling spices from around the world, displayed in small prism-like piles, and the gold souq will blind you with its glistening jewelry, beauty, and wealth. Souqs show a snapshot of the past and may be perfect places to catch old men in traditional thobes (long white tunics) playing chess or discussing business. Arabians are very connected to the desert, where their nomadic Bedouin ancestors lived. Dune bashing—taking a car for a fast and bumpy ride across the sand dunes—is a popular activity for both locals and foreigners. Emiratis may take their own vehicles, while foreigners book trips with local companies who do the driving and prepare a traditional Arab meal of hummus and barbeque. Afterwards, both Arabs and foreigners sit on the ground to eat in a majilis, a patterned cloth tent that once served as shelter for the Bedouin tribes who settled the area.

Modern–day Dubai

While tradition and culture are respected and revered, Dubai has also explored new and exciting business ventures that embody modernity and innovation. The sudden wealth that has been found in Dubai has been invested in business as Dubai strives to create the biggest and best of everything. Representing the height of Dubai’s modernity is Burj Khalifa, the tallest building in the world at over 2,7116.5 feet (828 meters) tall. Surrounded by downtown Dubai and the Dubai Mall, it comprises homes, offices, and the Armani Hotel. Recently featured in the latest Mission Impossible film—Mission Impossible: Ghost Protocol—the Burj Khalifa is definitely catching the world’s attention. Dubai is also home to approximately 70 shopping centers, with the Dubai Mall being the most popular shopping destination. With more than 1,200 stores, it offers everything from Versace to Gap. Shopping isn’t the only thing happening at the mall though: an ice rink, a movie theater, an aquarium, and a small indoor theme park are all available for your entertainment. The stunning Dubai Fountain is also a main attraction, with a light, music, and water show daily.

Aiwa/na’am

Yes

Tayib

Okay

Min fadhlik

Please

Shukrah

Thank you

Afwan

You’re welcome

Mafi Mushkila

No problem

Inshallah

God willing

At the edge of the ocean lies Atlantis, a new luxury resort located on a series of man–made islands in the shape of a palm tree, appropriately named “The Palm.” The Palm is the only place in the Middle East that offers the chance to swim with dolphins, snorkel with stingrays, and slide down a protected water ride that takes you through a shark tank. The surprising fusion of traditional Arabian culture and new innovation has made Dubai an exciting and alluring destination. As cultures from all around the world coexist in peace in Dubai, so do tradition and innovation. “Dubai really is the best of all worlds around the Middle East,” claims Dajani. “It offers the best of a big city with the best of Middle Eastern culture. This is a good place to live.”

For extended text, read the article on our website.

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Whitney Wood

Miss Idaho 2012 and BYU Independent Study Student

Before I heard about BYU Independent Study, I worried that serving as Miss Idaho for a year would put me behind in school because I had to leave BYU Campus and I couldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t go to school full time. I was surprised and impressed by the low tuition and the huge selection of university courses for students. Even though my life is really busy, I can still work on my classes anywhere, anytime I have a break. BYU Independent Study truly helps me do it all!

Pave Your Own Pilgrimage

Photo by Farrukh Younus

By Sarah Petersen

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This beautiful Thai temple in Sarnath, India, honors Buddha Gautama.

34 â&#x2013;ś winter 2013

Buddhism Buddha’s Holy Sites

Siddhartha Gautama was born around 563 BC as an Indian prince who renounced his wealth and family in order to become an ascetic. Siddhartha recognized that Enlightenment wouldn’t come from indulgence, but through study and meditation. During this process, he became Buddha. Most of his teachings focus on how to understand oneself, cope with daily problems, and end suffering. Whether you are searching for greater moral significance or are interested in the history and beauty of this religion, you can find both by traveling to the four holy sites of Buddhism: the Buddha’s birthplace, the site where he attained Enlightenment, where he first preached, and where he achieved parinirvana—the final nirvana that is given to those who have been awakened.

Nepal

Lumbini

Photo by Rámon

This is the birthplace of Buddha Gautama and was his home for 29 years. Come walk the same path that young Siddhartha took every day. His actual birthplace has been identified and is commemorated with the Asokan pillar, where a plaque marks

the location as Buddha’s birthplace. Travelers journey to this city to chant and meditate from sunrise until sunset.

Bodh Gaya This is the location where Buddha Gautama is believed to have received Enlightenment, making Bodh Gaya the most important of the four holy sites. According to tradition, Buddha Gautama was traveling when he came upon the Bodhi tree. He sat under the shade of the broad tree, meditating for three days and three nights, before finally reaching Enlightenment. Following his Enlightenment, Buddha spent seven weeks meditating on what happened and then began to preach. Next to the legendary sacred fig tree is the beautiful Mahabodhi Temple, Bodh Gaya’s main monastery.

India

Colorful temples and monasteries have been built in Sarnath, representing numerous Buddhist countries such as Thailand, Japan, China, Sri Lanka, and Myanmar, each one built in the style of the country it represents. These buildings give you a miraculous portrayal of sacred buildings built among the city’s ancient ruins.

Kushinagar

This holy site commemorates where Buddha Gautama is thought to have attained parinirvana, merging with Brahman. After his death, Buddha’s body was taken east of the city to Makutabandhana to be cremated at the shrine of the Mallas. For seven days many assembled at the ceremony and festival that were held in his honor. Today you can walk around the large dome–shaped stupa, which is placed over a portion of Buddha’s ashes.

Sarnath After attaining Enlightenment, Buddha traveled on to Sarnath. Along the way he met five ascetics and taught them what would become his first sermon. The Dhamek Stupa, built in 249 BC, stands as a monument in Sarnath to commemorate the special events that took place there.

How to get there: ▶▶

www.buddhist-pilgrimage.com

▶▶

www.buddhapath.com

▶▶

www.indiatravels.com

“If you speak or act with a calm, bright heart, then happiness follows you, like a shadow that never leaves.” Buddha Gautama, The Dhammapada, verse 2

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Christianity Paul’s Devoted Footsteps

Italy

Mamertine Prison and the Basilica of St. Paul, Rome

Many believe that the Mamertine Prison was where Paul was kept during one of his imprisonments. A sculpture of Paul and his fellow missionary, Peter, is on display in the prison. The lower room of the prison is said to be where Paul and Peter were tied to a column and where they converted their guards

to Christianity. Rome is also home to the beautiful Basilica of St. Paul, constructed after Paul’s death and believed by many to be his burial place.

Greece

Areopagus (Mars Hill), Athens

Located directly south of the Acropolis is a large marble hill, known as “Mars Hill,” where Paul is said to have given his famous speech on “the Unknown God.” Today, a bronze plaque with the Greek text of Paul’s sermon hangs at the bottom of the hill. You can walk up the steps to the top of the hill, where many great leaders have spoken.

Philippi, Eastern Macedonia

Paul visited this ancient city while traveling on his second and third missions. It was here that Paul and Silas were said to have baptized a merchant girl, leading to their imprisonment. While imprisoned, Paul and Silas felt an earthquake that jarred the building enough to open the prison doors. The jail keeper was converted, and Paul and Silas were allowed to leave

the city the next morning. According to scripture, Paul organized the first Christian community in that city and wrote two letters to the followers there. You can still see the ruins of several temples that were constructed because of Paul and other missionary influences.

Turkey Ephesus

During Paul’s time, the city of Ephesus was a large cosmopolitan, political, and economical meeting place. According to the Bible, Paul spent a large amount of time in this city during his second and third missions. You can sit on the stone steps of the Great Theater, where Paul is said to have preached. You can also visit ruins of the Temple of Artemis, which existed during Paul’s time. And you can walk down the street that connects the temple to the theater, charting what is thought to be a sacred procession Paul may have walked several times.

How to get there: ▶▶

www.livingpassages.com

▶▶

www.christiantravelfinder.com

▶▶

www.bibleontour.com

“Charity . . . rejoiceth not in iniquity, but rejoiceth in the truth.”

Paul, 1 Corinthians 13:4–7, New Testament (KJV)

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Photography by Leonora Enking

The apostle Paul, born in AD 5, was a Jew and Roman citizen of the Pharisaic tradition. According to the Bible, Paul, known as Saul before his conversion, persecuted the disciples of Jesus Christ. Yet while traveling to Damascus, Saul saw the resurrected Jesus—a sight that struck him blind. After three days his sight was restored, and the newly christened “Paul” began his extensive travels to preach that Jesus Christ was the Son of God. Whether you have read all of Paul’s works or not, these ancient cities contain beautiful ruins and unforgettable memories. By visiting these locations, you may be amazed by what Paul and many other Christian missionaries accomplished.

These steps in the Great Theater ruins are still intact in Ephesus, Turkey.

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The Dome of the Rock is a significant shrine for some Muslims because it is located where it is believed that Muhammad miraculously ascended into heaven.

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Islam

Muhammad’s Divine Journey Muhammad is believed to be the messenger who delivered the final word of God—Allah. Generally, Muhammad is considered the founder of Islam, although not all Muslims share this belief. He was a restorer of faith from ancient prophets such as Adam, Moses, Jesus Christ, and others. There are several places on the earth today that have significant meaning to the followers of Muhammad. Whether you are a part of the Muslim faith or not, visiting the holy cities of Islam can be extremely rewarding and fascinating. Experiencing these holy cities in person may bring a greater knowledge of and appreciation for Islam.

Saudi Arabia Mecca

Photo by Jorunn D. Newth

Welcome to the birthplace of Muhammad. One of the most sacred locations within the city is Jabal al–Nour, the “mountain of light,” where Muhammad is believed to have received revelation from Gabriel, leading to the revelation of the Quran. Because of these historic events, Mecca is considered the holiest city in Islam. All able Muslims

are encouraged to visit this holy city at least once in their lifetime; today, many Muslims continue to make the annual pilgrimage known as the Hajj, which is held in October every year.

Medina

The second holiest city in Islam is Muhammad’s burial place. Walk where the final chapters of the Quran were revealed to Muhammad. The three oldest mosques in Islam are also found in Medina, namely Al–Masjid an–Nabawi (The Prophet’s Mosque where Muhammad is buried), Masjid Quba’ (the first mosque in Islam’s history), and Masjid al–Qiblatain (the mosque where Muhammad changed the direction of prayer from Jerusalem to Mecca).

Mount Arafat

This granite hill lies just east of Mecca and is known for being the place where Muhammad delivered his farewell sermon toward the end of his life. In Islamic tradition, this mount is where Adam and Eve—who had been separated for 200 years after being expelled from the Garden of Eden— were reunited and forgiven. Atop this hill, one can repent and be forgiven

by Allah. Mount Arafat is one of the many stops for all pilgrims during the Hajj. Many remain on the hill all day and night begging Allah to forgive their sins and asking for strength for the future.

Israel

Dome of the Rock, Jerusalem

This mosque, different from all other mosques, is one of the most famous Islamic sites in Jerusalem. The Dome of the Rock is a shrine built over the sacred Foundation Stone and is where Muhammad is believed to have ascended into heaven. It was after his return that Muhammad called all people to join the Muslim religion. The outside walls of this octagon–shaped mosque are made of porcelain and contain many windows. The inside of the dome is lavishly decorated with several mosaics and Quranic inscriptions. This is the oldest Islamic monument that stands today.

How to get there: ▶▶

www.getyourguide.com

▶▶

www.hajis.co.uk

“Whoever recommends and helps a good cause becomes a partner therein.” The Quran, Chapter 4, Verse 85

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ticket

through time By Jordan Carroll

Longing for another time or place isn’t a concept singular to the twenty-first century, but we have definitely mastered it. Nostalgia is everywhere: In our music. Our movies. Our television shows. Our clothes. Our books. We seek the retro fashion of the 1960s or ’80s. TV viewers are mesmerized by award-winning dramas like Downton Abbey and its depiction of Britain’s servants and elite of the 1920s—or Mad Men’s business executives of the ’60s. We dream about the beautiful culture of Paris in the 1890s. Books take us to cities and times that are not our own. In a time when war and political conflict are common, we often yearn for the earth’s simpler “golden” ages. Sometimes it would be nice to just shut your eyes, drift away, and appear in another place. A character in Woody Allen’s nostalgic movie Midnight in Paris came to this conclusion: “That’s what the present is. It’s a little unsatisfying because life is unsatisfying.” Maybe he was on to something. When the present leaves something to be desired, why not take a break? When you’ve run out of vacation time or you’ve barricaded yourself inside a humid, cramped apartment to wait out winter’s frigid

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1890 190 0 8 0 18

9 20 1 0 1 19

Left: The original Ferris Wheel sits high above exhibition buildings at the Chicago World’s Fair. George Ferris engineered his carnival cre ation to compete with France’s Eiffel Tower. Right: People swarm the streets near the alabaster walls at the World’s Fair in 1893.

Left: Courtesy of the Chicago History Museum; Right: Courtesy of the Brooklyn Museum

temperatures, stop a minute, take a trip, and travel back through time.

The White City

First stop: the greatest fair in America’s history. Because what is more reminiscent of the golden era than the world’s first Ferris wheel? In the late nineteenth century, the city of Chicago was much different from the teeming metropolis of nearly 10 million people that it is today. Oprah was yet to be born, deep-dish pizza was decades away from being invented, a Lutheran Seminary stood where Wrigley Field would be built, and the nightmare that is Chicago O’Hare Airport was a problem world travelers did not yet have to tolerate. In the 1890s, Chicago is preparing for the four-hundredth anniversary of Christopher Columbus’s landing in the New World, and thus the World’s Columbian Exposition—otherwise known as the Chicago World’s Fair—is

born. Spanning three months, the fair features hundreds of newly designed buildings hosting groundbreaking electricity exhibits that could leave your arm hair standing on end, along with freshly painted carnival rides, live music, arts and crafts, and some of the first fair food. Of course, food is always a large motivator for attending fairs and festivals. Just think—tasting the original Cracker Jacks. That’s right, you won’t care if you never get back (to the twenty-first century, that is). While wandering through the buildings, taking in new inventions, galleries, or lectures, you might run into the likes of Susan B. Anthony, Alexander Graham Bell, Thomas Edison, Fredrick Douglass, President Grover Cleveland, or thousands of other dignitaries from across the world who attended the fair. But rubbing shoulders with the rich and famous of the turn-of-thecentury would not be the highlight. Chicago itself is the fair’s main

exhibit. Dubbed the White City, the architecture and lighting make 1893 Chicago a sight to behold, so much so that the alabaster city inspires Katharine Lee Bates in penning the lyrics of “America the Beautiful.” Hubert Howe Bancroft wrote in The Book of the Fair in 1893: “It has been said that of all the marvels of the Chicago Exposition, the most marvelous is Chicago. However this may be, certain it is that the attention of the thoughtful visitor is attracted first of all to the city whose builders thus invite and entertain the world of civilization as their guest.”

The Pearl City

As a time traveler, perhaps you are looking for a more exotic trip than a ride on a Ferris wheel, but you’d rather not sail across the world in the dregs of a 1900s boat accompanied with rats. Instead, just step out of the time machine on the shores of British

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colonial Hong Kong. You most likely won’t recognize it if you’re expecting to see the modern metropolis of today, full to the brim with seven million residents, a skyline of skyscrapers, and only a handful of old, historic buildings. Though it has several million fewer inhabitants at the turn of the century and is not without political strife, don’t count this city’s earlier years out; Hong Kong is the New York City of the Far East. The 1900s bring a tradition of trade, commerce, and culture to Hong Kong, and at the center is Victoria Harbor (named after the reigning British queen). Just a few years old, the Star Ferry Company offers a ride you must make during your time travels. In fact, you might just want to start there. Aboard the ferry, you’ll discover views of this Pearl City that aren’t possible from any other point. But maybe boats are still not your preferred mode of transportation. Not to worry, because even in the time of British colonial Hong Kong, there is a tramway system. It’s the most tourist-friendly way to get around the city, even if the roads are yet to be fraught with traffic congestion. The tramway, recently opened in 1904, offers a first-class ride for a steal at just 10 cents a ticket. Like foreign substances in oysters growing into pearls at the bottom of Hong Kong’s waters, the city is also morphing into a larger, more valuable colony. Hundreds of thousands of British colonists are settling here, creating a surprisingly substantial social scene. While the Crown Colony doesn’t yet have famous celebrities like Jackie Chan or Bruce Lee, travelers can become acquainted with Victorian society at the racecourses or cricket fields while enjoying a combination of cultures in a cup of Hong Kong–style milk tea.

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A cable railway in Hong Kong in 1897. At the turn of the century, Hong Kong’s transpor tation was modernizing, accomodating immigrants during the British Colonial rule.

The City of Light

Jumping forward, we time travelers reach another golden era, this time in France (much like the France explored in Midnight in Paris, which left us itching to time travel in the first place). It’s an era of jazz; they call it the Crazy Years. Like the music, the culture and life of Paris in the 1920s whisk you up and swing you around like beads dangling from the dress of a flapper dancing the Charleston. Like Chicago during the World’s Fair, Paris thrives during this time as a hub for all things cultural. The City of Light has it all: Dance. Music. Literature. Art. Fashion. The men are dapper and the women carefree. You won’t have to save up money to check out a music hall, theater, or operetta. Catch La Haut by Yves

Mirande and Gustave Quinson or a less racy musical number at the infamous Folies Bergère. Motion pictures cost as little as 27 cents. Don’t forget to brush up on your French before you go, but if your vocabulary is less than sufficient, there’s always the option of finding a dance club playing the latest from Sidney Bechet and Louis Armstrong. If you’re looking for a more intellectual visit to Paris, see if you can pop in and soak up some knowledge at the Sorbonne, which is famous for attracting scholars from across the world, including many American writers. (In the twenty-first century, the Sorbonne no longer functions as a singular university, but is more like a conglomerate of research institutions.) Craving more creative inspiration? You can never go wrong with meandering through the

Top: photo courtesy of Bibliothèque Nationale de France; bottom: photo by Vintage Lulu

Above: Traffic fills Rue La Fayette in Paris in 1927. Below: You’ll see the latest fashions at the corner café.

Montparnasse area, where clubs and cafés line the streets. Not too far from the Sorbonne is the renowned Café de la Rotonde; although it still exists in modern days, its golden days were the ’20s. When you stop to have a drink, you might encounter famous artists like Picasso, Diego Rivera, or Modigliani. At the very least, you are sure to encounter some of their

works that cover the walls of the café. If you’re lucky, some creativity might rub off on you too. No trip to Paris is complete without indulging in fashion, regardless of whether you’re a man or a woman. That said, the 1920s is a time most twenty-first century women would be comfortable with. Suffocating corsets are out, and new (and a tad rebellious) trends are in: heels, makeup, perfume, short haircuts, and dresses that show off your gorgeous gams. In 1924, Coco Chanel is designing costumes for Ballet Russe and orchestrating the commercial debut of Chanel No. 5. Chanel’s perfume isn’t the only fashion classic created in the ’20s. Modern men visiting Paris can tip their straw boater hats off to the

’20s for altering suits for the coming century. Wide-legged pants are a marked difference from the decade’s previously short, straight trousers and military jackets.

Time Travels On

Whether you’re looking for a distraction from the twenty-first century or wishing on your birthday candles for a few decades past, put your handy time machine to use and step away for a second from the humdrum of your daily schedule. Forget the naysayers with their dream-crushing insistence on sticking to current “reality” and discounting the extraordinary. Where will your cultural globetrotting take you next? Dream big—and then time travel to any city whose past reaches out to you. And expand your life decade by decade.

www.stowawaymag.com ◀ 43

Culture

Caribbean waves crash against the sandy, white beaches of the Maya ruins in Mexico.

Arts

Life

Eats

See the world through a new lens with intimate photos of Copenhagen or with famous paintings from around the world.

Dive into Italian culture, or investigate the Maya doomsday myth.

Photo by BjĂśrn Lauer

Invigorate your taste buds with Hungarian desserts or with poblano pepper recipes.

www.stowawaymag.com â&#x2014;&#x20AC; 45

arts

CAPTURING

COPENHAGEN It’s another cold January morning in Copenhagen. The snow is partly melted, outlining the rectangular bricks along the curving streets. A man and a woman stand with their bikes on the corner of a busy intersection with the statue of Danish King Frederik VII in the background. As an empty taxi passes, the couple leans in for a quick kiss before cycling away down different streets. A parting kiss in the cold, a small affection seemingly ordinary or routine, is instantly immortalized as a beautiful and intimate moment through the camera lens of Nabaz Anwar, a street photographer in Copenhagen. The fleeting moment represents a brief second in the day— something Anwar and other street photographers all over the world hope to capture, one photograph at a time.

The Essence of Street Photography Eugène Atget, a Parisian photographer, is said to be the founder of the street photography genre. In 1898, Atget focused on

46 ▶ winter 2013

cataloguing vieux Paris (old Paris). Since its beginnings in Paris, street photography has attempted to showcase a raw form of contemporary art centered on connecting the candid lives of individuals to their urban environments. As a street photographer and a sociologist, Anwar combines his interest in human interaction into his art. The 24mm to 50mm camera lenses he uses expose the daily happenings of Copenhagen. The interesting thing about human culture, Anwar believes, is that we like to keep to ourselves, especially in these modern times. “We are afraid of each other, afraid of touching each other, afraid of speaking to each other,” he says. “We are

taught how to behave, how to talk, how to respect each other’s bubbles and personal spheres.” A street photographer is able to document a pure vision of society that shows the world that we are not really so different from one another. “What I think is that all of us in the world—no matter what country or culture—are very similar to each other,” says Anwar. “We all want the same things: to feed our children and to be happy on our streets.” Street photography is different from documentary photography in that it doesn’t focus on documenting historical events. Instead, it manifests humanity within every picture, showing what we have done and what we are doing.

arts

Left: Steam and sunlight combine to create a misty, orange fog on a January morning. ▶ Below: He balanced on the edge of the backside of a bench to get extra height for this shot.

Photography by Nabaz Anwar

A Mobile Pursuit

The intriguing aspect of street photography is that it is a mobile pursuit. Each street, each sidewalk, each mode of transportation provides an opportunity to chase a fleeting moment. In capturing a moment, a street photographer comes closer to connecting with life in the city. Anwar enjoys uniting his two passions: photography and the study of individuals. Each time he leaves his home to walk the streets of Copenhagen (walking approximately 10 to 11 kilometers, or 6 to 7 miles, on each outing), he brings his camera and little black notebook. Anwar keeps a map in his home, where he places a needle in each location of Copenhagen he visits. Sometimes even after a long day of photographing, Anwar doesn’t always capture the shot. “If I miss a shot or if the light was great at a particular moment, I make a note to go back another day,” says Anwar. A main pursuit of street photography is to capture the entirety of an urban environment—it’s not just stepping outside of your home and taking a picture of a stranger on the street; it’s finding a hidden story, a joyous moment, or a humorous encounter that brings a society closer together.

An Art in Progress

Although Copenhagen isn’t as large as New York, Paris, or London—three cities where street photography is a well-developed genre—Anwar and fellow street photographers hope to cultivate the genre within Copenhagen. Anwar continues to study and research street photography from its beginnings in Paris to classic modern-day photographers like Robert Frank (b. 1924), a notable American street photographer. Anwar is currently working on a book to be published later this year, which will include 100 of his best photographs of Copenhagen. He hopes to showcase Copenhagen by submitting some of these photographs to the London Festival of Photography in coming years. This international photography festival is dedicated to highlighting contemporary works

of visual storytelling that reflect and document human behavior and society. This year, the festival will be held in June and July in various venues across London. Street photography is a form of art that beautifully captures the world we live in, honestly and without discrimination. Through his work, Anwar hopes to remind people that we’re not all that much different from one another. Street photography is a “little culture blooming” within Denmark, he says. “It is a work I am doing for myself, for Copenhagen, for art.” ▶▶

www.nabazanwar.blogspot.com

▶▶

www.street-photographers.com

▶▶

www.lfph.org

—Audrey E. Blake

www.stowawaymag.com ◀ 47

arts

Then You Jump! Art-Inspiring Locations across the Globe

Claude Monet: Giverny, France

Monet spent the better part of his life traveling around Europe, from the Netherlands to London and from Amsterdam to Paris, looking for but never quite finding his muse. Finally, in 1883, Monet found inspiration in his own backyard—complete with a picturesque garden, pond, and bridge—in Giverny, France. The

father of modern-day Impressionism, Monet painted his most famous works, the Water Lilies series, without having to leave home. Monet’s spirit connected with nature in the plein air of Giverny, a city that continues to inspire painters and tourists alike with its beautiful scenery.

Vincent van Gogh: Arles, France

Plagued by depression and loneliness, Van Gogh led a rather tortured life. He journeyed between The Hague, London, and Paris, looking for something that would offset the darkness in his soul. He found this elusive light in the warm, vivid colors of Arles, France. Ironically, he found his inspiration not only in the sunshine, painting cheery Sunflowers, but also in the moonlight, painting several vibrant nightscapes, like Starry Night Over the RhÔne. Sadly, Arles didn’t turn out to be the refuge Van

In front of the iconic Dibble house, visitors are transported to an American icon.

48 ▶ winter 2013

Gogh had hoped for—the townsfolk often raised petitions to have him sent away—but his sojourn there in the late 1880s did help him develop his distinctive style. You can see the reproductions on easels placed around Arles, commemorating the subjects of Van Gogh’s paintings.

Edvard Munch: Ekeberg, Norway

Another fairly tormented artist, Munch traveled from Norway to Paris to Berlin and back to Norway, trying to solve the mysteries of his own soul. Perfecting the art of symbolism and German expressionism, Munch focused more on the internal landscape than on the external. While walking with some friends across a bridge, Munch, understandably affected by the bloodred sunset, sensed an “infinite scream passing through nature.” Those external surroundings inspired him to paint the four-painting series originally titled

American Gothic, Grant Wood

Photo by Jehjoyce

In the classic film Mary Poppins, street artist Bert teaches Jane and Michael the secret of traveling to wondrous places via his whimsical chalk drawings: You think, you wink, you do a double blink, you close your eyes, and you jump! For centuries, artists have roamed the world, searching for that one place that would ignite their creativity. Jump on in, and we’ll take a look at places where famous artists found their inspiration.

The Scream of Nature (1893–1910), the terrible, introspective paintings that have haunted hallways all over the world for more than a hundred years. You too can look out over that same red sky that spoke so forcefully to Munch in Ekeberg. While crossing the bridge where he once walked, look for the plaque displaying the painting with the caption in Norwegian: “Skrik.”

Grant Wood: Eldon, Iowa

This American painter traveled all the way to Europe to study Impressionism and Postimpressionism in the 1920s. A product of the Great Depression, Wood was motivated by the lives of people in the rural American Midwest. His most famous painting, American Gothic, was inspired first by a Gothic Revival–style cottage in Iowa. The stately European architecture juxtaposes with the simple American A-frame house, echoing the styles Wood studied while abroad. His other inspiration was the hardworking people that embodied the resilient spirit of the Midwest. Today, you can visit the Dibble House in Eldon, Iowa, dress up in classic Depression-era garb, grab a pitchfork, and get your picture taken in front of the iconic edifice.

Photo by chensiyuan

J. M. W. Turner: Venice, Italy

A legend in the world of landscape paintings, English painter J. M. W. Turner worked principally with watercolors and oils. Known as “the painter of light,” Turner traveled all over Great Britain and Europe, searching for the perfect light. He eventually found it in Venice, Italy, where he returned often to find more inspiration as he studied the luminous melding of sea and sky. Through his study of light, Turner conveyed a new level of spirituality, portraying the power of God through his works. In 1835, he painted one of his most famous works, The Grand Canal, Venice. You can get that same

The Grand Canal, Venice, J. M. W. Turner

A gondola ride through Venice’s canal offers the same view as Turner’s painting.

spectacular view by taking a gondola ride through the canal.

Katsushika Hokusai: Enoshima, Japan

A Japanese painter and ukiyo-e (wood-block prints) artist, Hokusai was inspired largely by Western art. Examples from his life suggest that he was constantly searching for something: he changed his name several times and lived in more than 90 houses. Departing from the traditional Japanese art of his time, Hokusai used the common man as inspiration for his woodcuts. In the 1820s, Hokusai

created his most famous work, The Great Wave off Kanagawa. With this work, he restored an element of humanity into Japanese art by depicting lower-class fishermen being tossed amid giant waves, with the majestic Mt. Fuji minimized in the background. Enoshima boasts the most popular beach in the Kanagawa Prefecture. From that beach, you can gaze out at the same spectacular view of Mt. Fuji, the ocean, and the other beaches along Kanagawa’s coast.

—Mindy Leavitt

www.stowawaymag.com ◀ 49

life

Rome When in

Auguri! Congratulations! It’s finally arrived: your dream vacation to Italy. Your chance for a Roman holiday, like the old Hollywood classic featuring Audrey Hepburn and Gregory Peck. Just as Princess Ann (Hepburn) dismisses her royal schedule to experience all of Rome, you can have your own Italian escapade. By settling in to Italy’s carefree and passionate culture, you might just leave a little bit more Italian.

Giulia Cacciatore’s grandmother almost called the police because her granddaughter was 10 minutes late for lunch. In Italy, mealtime is family time—no questions asked. But even though lunch is a big deal, it pales in comparison to dinner. Cacciatore, a native Italian, explains that her family’s mealtime routine includes setting the perfect table, cooking the precise amount of food, and eating right on time. If you’re lucky enough to get invited to lunch with an Italian family, take it as a compliment, but don’t offer to make them a meal in return. Ryan Weller, who lived in Italy for two years, tried to make an Italian dish for a native Italian. “It turned into the biggest disaster I’ve probably ever experienced,” he says. The standards of cooking are so high in Italy that “even when you think you’ve learned how to cook, they still wag their finger and say, ‘That’s not Italian.’” What if you’re not lucky enough to be a guest at dinner? Then local restaurants will save you the embarrassment of trying to cook Italian food yourself or of explaining to the polizia why you were 10 minutes late. But don’t be offended when the servers seem to be ignoring you. They are really just expressing Italian hospitality by helping you slow down and relax. Take time to look over the menu of mouthwatering Italian dishes, relax during your meal, and enjoy the company around you. Italian restaurants expect their guests to stay long after dinner is over to chat and enjoy themselves. Later, walk around the piazza and ask the locals where to find the best gelato. Consider savoring your dessert on the Spanish Steps, where Princess Ann’s Italian adventure took flight.

For Gestures of Friendship Above: The Spanish Steps in Rome launched Princess Ann’s Roman holiday. Right: Mealtime is family time, and you don’t mess with it.

50 ▶ winter 2013

Don’t be surprised if you see an Italian on a scooter passionately using his hands to communicate on a phone that is shoved up his helmet.

From left: photography by Mark Hogan and Jaanus Treilmann

For the Love of Food

As Cacciatore matter-of-factly states, “Sometimes, we seriously are unable to speak if we keep our hands at our laps.” When Cacciatore’s mother speaks, her hands elaborately reflect the tone of her voice. Try embracing Italian culture by respectfully imitating Italian gestures in your conversations. Be sure to copy the locals, no matter where you go. Be aware that northern and southern Italy have very different gestures and greetings. For example, hugs are welcome down south, but they are reserved for family and best friends up north. Kisses on the cheek have similar boundaries. Watch the locals for social cues before you start a conversation. While older Italians generally expect you to be fluent in Italian, younger Italians usually welcome a relaxing chat, even if you’re not completely fluent. Take a chance to enjoy the spontaneous conversation, but be prepared to be asked some personal questions. Friendship is highly valued in Italy, and chatting openly is expected. Questions are meant to strengthen friendship, not invade privacy. While not every Italian will try to become your best friend, it is easier to

“Sometimes we are seriously unable to speak if we keep our hands at our laps.” make friends if you are outgoing and ask questions. Don’t hide in a corner— be bold! Ask locals where to find their favorite pizzeria, architecture, or art gallery. Learn from your conversations how to truly discover Italy.

For Safe Transportation Venturing past the popular tourist locations to other sites recommended by your new Italian friends may seem romantic on a vintage Vespa. But if you’re not an experienced driver on a scooter or motorcycle, Italy is not a good place to learn. Italian traffic follows a no-rules approach, and law enforcement often plays to the locals’ advantage. Renting a car can be dangerous, too. Public transportation is a much safer way to enjoy Italy, especially in the popular cities.

If you do have experience as a scooter or motorcycle driver, there are many places online to rent a Vespa, bicycle, or motorcycle. You’ll want to check whether the rental place will allow you to go off on your own. If you do get the opportunity to drive, make sure you’re paying close attention to the road, not the scenery. Fitting in requires more than being a typical tourist. Embracing Italian culture provides you with long-lasting memories that will leave you begging to return. After all, you didn’t just visit Italy—you took a part of Italia home with you. Ciao!

—Juliana Cox Have your own Roman holiday like Audrey Hepburn!

www.stowawaymag.com ◀ 51

Ecuador Study Abroad Linguistics, Anthropology, and Beyond! Travel June 5 to July 29, 2013

Prerequisite

LING 551 Anthropological Linguistics (Completed during Spring Term)

Required

Six credits from the following courses: FLANG 100R Lanugage Study, Quichua (2 cr) FLANG 305R Language Skills Development, Quichua (1 cr) LING 580R Problems in Linguistics and Applied Linguistics (3 cr) LING 590R Readings in Linguistics (3 cr)

Application deadline: February 1, 2013 http://kennedy.byu.edu/isp

52 â&#x2013;ś winter 2013

N OW S T R E A M I N G O N A L L YO U R DEVICES

classical89.org 89.1 & 89.5 fm

www.stowawaymag.com ◀ 53

life

We Survived

2012 A Maya priest lifts a large conch shell to his lips and blasts a long, low note—the New Year ceremony has begun. Dressed in layers of traditional ceremonial clothing, he dances into the middle of the circle of villagers. They have come to watch the annual ceremony of rebirth for the gods and the entire world. This is the actual celebration of the end of the Maya calendar. Allen Christenson, an archaeologist and Maya expert, says the Maya “don’t look at this ceremony as a reenactment. They look at it as the creation, so that time folds back on itself, and you actually return back to the moment of creation.” The Maya used three different calendars representing both linear and cyclical systems of time: one tracked the day of the year (long count), and two tracked lunar and solar cycles. These calendars helped the people keep records of their past, present, and future in a way

54 ▶ winter 2013

that, even today, we can read and understand. The Maya doomsday myth was first inferred from an ancient Maya text mentioning December 21, 2012 (the end date of the Maya longcount calendar), in connection with the belief in a Maya destroyer god who appears to end and renew the world each year. Some archaeologists combined this visit with a belief that the world would come to an end with a bang—a prophecy from the Mexica people, who thrived hundreds of years after the Maya scene diminished. This myth grew until people around the globe began to fear the end of the world. Christenson isn’t sure how any archaeologists could think the Maya believed that the world would end on December 21, 2012. “The Maya never said it would be the end of the world in 2012,” he says. “They like time. They calculated dates billions of years in the past, even further back than what we consider the Big Bang. But they also

calculated millions of years into the future, so they obviously didn’t think things were going to end.” Maya priests still perform the ceremony of rebirth every year for the 15 million Maya living in Mexico and Central America at harvest time. They believe that without the ceremony the world would die. Christenson says he once told a Maya priest about the 2012 hype. The priest laughed and responded, “Of course the world’s going to die in 2012. It dies every time the sun goes down, every harvest, every New Year. I don’t know why you’re worried about it— we always get it going again!” Christenson sums it up: “Pretty much every Maya ceremony, ritual prayer, and literature has to do ultimately with rebirth—everything dies and is reborn.” This year, you can rest easy knowing that Maya priests are keeping the world turning. We only have to worry if the Maya die out.

—Lauren Grange

Photo by Xiaozhuli

What Do the Maya Really Believe?

Bringing Hungary

home Apricot-Blueberry Crostata Ingredients 2 cups flour ¼ teaspoon salt ½ cup plus 3 tablespoons sugar ⅞ cup butter 2 eggs ½ teaspoon almond extract 4‒6 tablespoons ice water 2 ½ cups sliced apricots 1 tablespoon lemon juice ½ cup blueberries ⅓ cup apricot preserves ¼ cup sliced almonds

Photo by Coleman Bonham

Directions Regardless of the destination, food is central to the experience of traveling. It’s also a great way to experience foreign cultures without getting on a plane: you can visit Mumbai from a local restaurant or Rome from your own kitchen. One major culinary destination to put on your map is Hungary. This Eastern European country has a rich tradition of hearty, multicourse meals that culminate in intricate, delicious desserts. Scott Gowdy and Preston Plowman, who traveled through Hungary in 2010, recall hearing about unusual sweets and amazing fruit dishes before their arrival. Plums, apricots, and peaches from Hungary’s famous orchards are often featured in tarts or tiny pastries, rolled up in soft crepes with cream, or wrapped in dough to be boiled and doused in powdered sugar. But it’s not just about the taste: “Presentation is a high priority for Hungarian desserts,” says Gowdy.

One of the most ubiquitous desserts is rigojancsi, a many-layered cake served in little cubes, each on its own paper doily. A favorite spin on that classic is to scoop the cake into spheres instead of slices, so its tiny layers can be admired from all angles. Even street food takes on strange and lovely shapes to attract the eye and the palate. If you go out on a cold night, says Plowman, vendors will be serving up spiraling pretzel-like pastries covered in cinnamon sugar, “roasting with chestnuts on a open fire—I’m not even kidding!” Both men have cooked Hungarian food since their return home, to share with their families and to remember. Gowdy hopes to master what he calls “the Hungarian touch” in dishes he someday wants to share with his children. “Visiting Hungary from your kitchen is like being in heaven,” says Plowman, “although it’s only a shadow of being there.”

Combine flour, 3 tablespoons sugar, and salt, then cut in cold butter. In a small bowl, beat one egg with almond extract, then add to the flour mixture. Slowly add ice water until dough holds together. Cover and refrigerate one hour. Meanwhile, toss apricots with ½ cup sugar and lemon juice, then add blueberries. Preheat the oven to 350°F and cover a baking sheet in parchment paper. On a floured surface, roll out the dough into a large circle and transfer it to the baking sheet. Spread with the apricot preserves, leaving an inch margin, then top with the fruit mixture. Loosely fold the outer edge of the crust over the fruit. Beat the remaining egg and brush it over the crust, then press the almonds into it. Bake 30–40 minutes, until the crust is golden brown.

Yield: 6–8 servings Ready in 90 minutes

—Coleman Bonham

www.stowawaymag.com ◀ 55

eats

Poblanos

Four Corners of the Kitchen

Trinidad scorpion pepper. Devil’s tongue. Naga viper. Maybe one reason chile peppers have been collectively deemed by some as intimidating or simply too hot is that they have such scorching names. But chile peppers have been used to flavor food—and life—since 7500 BC. And there are hundreds of varieties of chile peppers, with hotness ranging from a warm lingering on the tongue to a bold scorch. One of the mildest chiles is the poblano (often mislabeled as pasilla peppers).

—Haley Frame

Peperonata Italy

Italians use this classic condiment in a wide range of dishes, from topping crostini to flavoring vegetables served with pasta.

Ingredients

2 bell peppers, chopped 1 poblano chile, cored, seeded, and chopped ½ medium red onion, chopped 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 1 tablespoon fresh lime juice 1 tablespoon fresh mint, chopped ¼ teaspoon ground coriander

Directions 1. 2. 3. 4.

Roasted Poblano Soup

56 ▶ winter 2013

Drizzle a medium skillet with olive oil, and bring to medium-high heat. Add chopped peppers, chile, and onion, and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Sauté until tender, stirring as it begins to color (4 to 5 minutes). In a separate bowl, make the dressing by whisking olive oil, lime juice, mint, and coriander together; then season with salt and pepper. Mix the dressing with the sautéed vegetables. Serve with desired dish.

Yield: 4–5 servings Ready in 25 minutes

Photo by Tucker Johnson

eats

Chile Rellenos

Roasted Poblano Soup

Shakshuka

In Mexico, the poblano pepper is most commonly enjoyed roasted and stuffed. In this versatile recipe, stuffing for the peppers can vary from plain cheese to roasted vegetables and cooked meat.

This soup is wonderful as a first course on a chilly night or as a main course by adding roasted vegetables or a meat of your choice. Leftovers, if there ever are any, can be used as a gourmet enchilada sauce.

If you haven’t heard much about Israeli cuisine, this dish will prompt further investigation. Use fresh, highquality eggs for the very best results.

Ingredients

1½ teaspoons coriander seeds, whole or ground

12 ounces Mexican semisoft cheese, cut into small cubes

2 tablespoons butter

1 teaspoon cumin seeds, whole or ground

1½ cups white onion, chopped

1½ tablespoons paprika, ground

½ cup all-purpose flour

2 cloves garlic, chopped

½ teaspoon salt

2 large eggs

2 cups fresh or frozen sweet corn

3 cloves fresh garlic

1 cup canola oil

5 cups chicken stock or broth ¼ cup fresh cilantro, chopped

1 poblano chile, seeded, and chopped

1 tablespoon fresh mint, chopped

1½ tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

¼ cup heavy whipping cream

¾ cup water

Directions

1 (14.5 ounce) can of Muir Glen® organic, whole, peeled tomatoes

Mexico

4 fresh poblano chiles

Directions 1.

Char the chiles under a broiler, turning occasionally until blackened on all sides. Place chiles in a resealable bag, and let them steam for 10 minutes. Peel off the charred skin, slit each chile lengthwise, and carefully remove the seeds. Stuff the chiles with cheese. Place all but 1 tablespoon of the flour in a small, shallow bowl. Dip the stuffed chiles in the flour, coating them lightly and shaking off any excess flour. In a separate bowl, lightly beat the eggs with the reserved 1 tablespoon of flour, and season with salt. Heat the canola oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat until hot but not smoking. Dip each floured poblano in the egg batter, and then carefully lay them in the hot oil. Using a wooden or metal spoon, baste the chiles with the hot oil. After the bottoms are golden brown, turn with a spatula and brown the other side. Drain on a wire rack or on a plate lined with a paper towel. Serve with brown rice.

Yield: 4–5 servings Ready in 30 minutes

United States

3 poblano chiles

2. 3.

6. 7. 8.

Char the chiles under a broiler, turning occasionally until blackened on all sides. Place chiles in resealable bag; let them steam for 10 minutes. Peel off the charred skin, remove the seeds, and chop the chiles. Melt butter in large, heavy pot over medium-high heat. Add chopped onion and garlic; sauté until onion is translucent (about 5 minutes). Add chiles and 1 cup of corn, reserving the other cup of corn. Sauté 1 minute, then add the chicken stock and bring to boil. Reduce heat to medium-low, simmering until the chiles are very tender (about 10 minutes). Stir in cilantro and mint. Puree soup. Stir in cream, reserved corn, and add salt to taste. Add more cream if the soup is too spicy. Top with feta cheese or other cheese, toasted almond slices, diced avocado, or brown rice.

Yield: 6–8 servings (as a side) or 4 servings (as a main dish) Ready in 40 minutes

Israel

Ingredients

4 eggs

Directions 1.

Place coriander, cumin, paprika, and salt in a mortar and pound with the pestle until crushed, or place in a resealable freezer bag and crush carefully with a rolling pin. Add garlic and crush into a paste. In a medium frying pan, cook chopped chile in 1 tablespoon oil over medium-high heat, stirring often until well browned (10 to 12 minutes). Add crushed spice mixture and cook, stirring until fragrant (about 1 minute). Stir in ¾ cup water, then the tomatoes. Cook, turning tomatoes occasionally, until softened (10 to 20 minutes). With a wooden spoon, make four indentations in the tomato mixture and crack an egg into each one. Season eggs with salt and pepper. Cover and cook until egg whites are set, but the yolks remain runny (about 5 minutes). Drizzle shakshuka with olive oil, and serve with fresh pita bread.

Yield: 2–3 servings Ready in 30 minutes

www.stowawaymag.com ◀ 57

PickYour Your Pick Continent Continent

International Study Programs at the Kennedy International Study Programs at the Kennedy Center serves students, faculty, departments Center serves students, faculty, andand departments by by facilitating development implementation facilitating thethe development andand implementation of of quality international academic experiences. quality international academic experiences. UseUse thethe Program Finder (http://kennedy.byu.edu/isp) to choose Program Finder (http://kennedy.byu.edu/isp) to choose best your academic professional goals thethe best fit fit forfor your academic andand professional goals covering four types programs major covering four types of of programs forfor anyany major to to department-specific opportunities. department-specific opportunities. Study Abroad Study Abroad

Students attend classes taught by BYU faculty enriched Students attend classes taught by BYU faculty thatthat are are enriched by by excursions to local sitessites andand immersion in ainnew culture. Some programs excursions to local immersion a new culture. Some programs offer general education courses while others offer major -specific courses. offer general education courses while others offer major -specific courses. These are are excellent for for students whowho are are traveling overseas for for the the firstfirst These excellent students traveling overseas timetime andand whowho want a structured program withwith plenty of interaction withwith want a structured program plenty of interaction BYU faculty andand students. BYU faculty students.

Direct Enrollment Direct Enrollment

Students attend classes at an institution of higher education. Students attend classes at international an international institution of higher education. Classes are are taught by local professors withwith the the credit transferring backback Classes taught by local professors credit transferring to BYU. Direct enrollment is ideal for for students whowho are are willing to accept to BYU. Direct enrollment is ideal students willing to accept the the challenges of facing a new culture on their own or in small groups of of challenges of facing a new culture on their own or in small groups other BYU students. other BYU students.

International InternationalStud\ Stud\Programs Programs Field Schools Field Schools

Field Schools are are designed to help students prepare for for graduate school Field Schools designed to help students prepare graduate school or aorcareer in cross-cultural/international consulting or research. Small a career in cross-cultural/international consulting or research. Small groups of students, or individuals, livelive within a communityâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;immersed groups of students, or individuals, within a communityâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;immersed in the local culture, as they carry out out theirtheir ownown research projects. ThisThis in the local culture, as they carry research projects. typetype of program requires independent, committed, andand self-motivated of program requires independent, committed, self-motivated students, whowho are are willing to prepare themselves through a semester-long students, willing to prepare themselves through a semester-long preparation course, andand whowho are are willing to live in local conditions as as preparation course, willing to live in local conditions members of aofculture andand community. Students are are academically guided members a culture community. Students academically guided by one or several faculty mentors. by one or several faculty mentors.

International Internships International Internships

Individual students or small groups work withwith international companies, Individual students or small groups work international companies, government organizations, or development agencies. International government organizations, or development agencies. International internships are are intended to provide a practical application of classroom internships intended to provide a practical application of classroom learning. On-the-job experience is enhanced by regular feedback from a a learning. On-the-job experience is enhanced by regular feedback from BYU faculty mentor. These internships are are geared toward students whowho BYU faculty mentor. These internships geared toward students are are independent, self-motivated, andand willing to face the the challenges of aof a independent, self-motivated, willing to face challenges newnew culture on their own. culture on their own. 101101 HRCB | (801) 422-3686 | isp@byu.edu | kennedy.byu.edu/isp HRCB | (801) 422-3686 | isp@byu.edu | kennedy.byu.edu/isp

Field Notes Photo by Katie Chao and Ben Muessig

Chinatown locals keep tradition alive by selling homemade goods to tourists.

Highway Highlights

Profile

Off the Beaten Path

Service

Tales from the Trip

Photo Contest Winners

Buckle up for a thrilling trip along Kenya’s portion of the Trans-African Highway.

Feel good vibes and hang out with the Stowaways, London’s emerging indie rockers.

Climb aboard some of the wildest rides on earth, or explore Chinatowns around the world.

Help rescue a forgotten generation.

Hear travel stories from Stowaway readers.

Take a look at Stowaway readers’ best photos from near and far.

www.stowawaymag.com ◀ 59

highway highlights

Mombasa Highway

A Bumpy Path to the Beauties of Kenya Jambo, karibu Kenya; hakuna matata! These Swahili lyrics welcome visitors to Kenya. It’s a phrase that means “Hello, welcome to Kenya; there is no problem,” explains Kenya resident Joseph Muteti. The Kenyan portion of the Lagos– Mombasa Trans-African Highway is a combined distance of 605 miles or 974 kilometers. Recent improvements to this Kenyan portion of the highway have reduced some hazards you might face—like wide potholes and crowded lanes of blacktop. Although this trip is still not without risk, many who have experienced these breathtaking, adrenaline-pumping adventures say the risks only add to the excitement of the journey.

Fort Jesus and Crocodiles Mombasa Your journey begins here. Mombasa, a major seaport rich with historical ambiance, marks the eastern end of the Trans-African Highway in Kenya. At the National Museum in Fort Jesus, you can enjoy feeling the rough stone battlements with your fingertips, listening as tolling bells call followers of Islam to prayer, and breathing in the intoxicating fragrance of plumeria blossoms. Gaze out over the fort’s walls at the captivating Kenyan coastline, or catch glimpses of the beautiful arabesque patterns on mosques as you drive through the city. Then spice up your trip by visiting Mamba village, a large

crocodile farm where you can experience the thrill of being close to these powerful, ferocious reptiles without becoming lunch. ▶▶

www.museums.or.ke

▶▶

www.mambavillage.com

Hippos and Lions West Tsavo 139 miles (224 km) from Mombasa Buckled up in a safari minibus, you can get almost within arm’s reach of the “big five” safari species in West Tsavo National Park. You don’t need to be too afraid of these five animals—lions, leopards, elephants, Cape buffalos, and rhinos—but don’t get close. Unlike their tamer cousins found in zoos, these wild creatures can maim or kill people who take unnecessary risks while on safari. For a safer encounter with the wild, visit the hippos at Mzima Springs. From the underwater observation point, you can see hippos swimming in the clear waters that flow from Kilimanjaro. ▶▶

www.kws.org/parks

Lava and Gravity Chyulu and Machakos 221 miles (356 km) from Tsavo

Deep in Chyulu Hills National Park, on Kituluni Hill, the rules of gravity don’t seem to apply as the water flows uphill.

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Between West Tsavo and Nairobi, stop at the Shetani lava flow and cave in Chyulu Hills National Park. Here you’ll feel close to the primitive forces of the earth. But take caution—wild animals call this area home and don’t

appreciate visitors. Continuing your drive toward Nairobi, you could stop at Kituluni Hill, a place near Machakos, where water flows uphill! According to local legends, the opposite gravitational force on Kituluni is the residual attraction of two people who once lived there. Be careful that you don’t also fall under its enchanting spell. ▶▶

www.youtube.com (Search: gravity defied mua)

Elephants and Rhinos Nairobi 39 miles (63 km) from Machakos

After seeing giraffes only in small pens at zoos, many visitors are astonished to watch giraffes run free under the acacia trees in Kenya’s national parks.

If you want to pet a baby elephant, visit the Elephant and Rhino Nursery of the David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust. Organizers of the trust know the risk of death that these orphaned animals would face if left alone in the wild, so they assign caregivers to become loving, adoptive parents who watch over these not-so-little ones. During the afternoon, caregivers even put sunscreen on the baby elephants’ ears and walk beside them, shading them—not with a large pair of ears as their real mothers would—but with umbrellas instead. If you want a unique, personal experience with wildlife, come make a friend for a lifetime. ▶▶

www.sheldrickwildlifetrust.org

Photography by Julie Ogborn

Flamingos and Leopards Lake Nakuru 100 miles (161 km) from Nairobi North of the equator, you will reach Lake Nakuru National Park. This sanctuary for birds, beasts, and travelers provides a complete safari filled with Rothschild giraffes, black and white rhinos, Cape buffalo, and

Look out from the Baboon Cliffs to see the forests and meadows surrounding Lake Nakuru in the Eastern Rift Valley of Kenya.

so many flamingos that they make the water’s edge look pink. Here you can enjoy lush acacia forests, picturesque Makalia Falls, and panoramic views of the crystal blue lake’s surface. Since leopards stalk the limbs of Nakuru’s rich green forests, don’t go exploring on foot. A printable roadmap will help you heed Nakuru Park’s cautions. One map says, “Do not drive too close to the lake as the shore, a wet grayish ash powder, is very soft.”

As you proceed with caution, you will enjoy a safe journey on the Trans-African Highway. ▶▶

www.webkenya.com/eng/safari

—Julie Ogborn

Check out other gorgeous photos of Kenya on our website.

www.stowawaymag.com ◀ 61

profile

STOWAWAYS THE

Music can make your trips more memorable this year—especially if you check out the local music scene. Whether you’re in London or Liverpool, you’ll find emerging musicians like the Stowaways to provide the perfect soundtrack to that smashing British holiday. The Stowaways, an emerging indie rock band, play the London music scene and have performed at a number of venues, including the 2012 London Olympic Games. As the Stowaways’ fame spreads, other artists are tuning in to listen. Colin Rivera, the lead singer of the American-British alternative pop rock band the Lovecapades, says, “I like their sound a lot. The British guitar tone is gorgeous, and they certainly have the vocal quality present in a lot of mainstream British rock.” For this exclusive interview, Stowaway spoke with Rudi Falla, guitarist, vocalist, and songwriter of the Stowaways. How did you come up with the word “Stowaways” for your band name? We just liked the sound of it. We brainstormed for ages, and that

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seemed to have kind of a familiar ring to it. That’s the only reason for it really. Why are you called Stowaway magazine? Because we want our readers to have a fun adventure and just stow away to some place exciting—and enjoy it by reading our magazine. Awesome—I guess that’s not many miles off the vibes of our music. What sets the Stowaways apart from other indie bands? We want our songs to shine through, big and strong. We’re kind of changing our direction right in the minute. We’re

just trying to broaden our spectrum on what we write about. And we’re bringing in some other influences from South Africa and listening to American bands like Tori Y Moi or Washed Out. That’s kind of the ambient vibe. Is there a reason behind this change in your sound? We want to have a more defined sound that you can hear and go, “Oh, that’s the Stowaways.” Something like that where we could have an album, and the songs could sit as a continuous body of work.

Photography courtesy of the Stowaways

What was it like playing for an international audience at the London Olympics in 2012? It was awesome. It was amazing just to be involved in the whole Olympics and to go into the park and soak up the atmosphere. We had such good times at the Olympics and the Paralympics as well. It was awesome. With your success at the Olympics, do you think you’ll be traveling to the United States any time soon? We’d love to. [Chuckles.] Our housemate went there last March. I was playing bass with him, so I got to go over, and it was amazing. So, I’d like to get the Stowaways on it. It’s the next avenue we’ll be working on. What’s it like to travel with your band? We love getting out of London because London can be kind of a tough crowd. Sometimes everyone’s quite stoic, you know; they just stand

So, if our readers were to visit London and wanted to get the best music, where should they go? For indie music or alternative stuff like that, there’s a venue called XOYO. They’ve got some real cool acts there. That’s near Old Street in central northeast London.

and watch whether they’re enjoying it or not. [Laughs.] They just kind of don’t move at all. We love getting out. We’d love to get some gigs in Europe because we love traveling, and we’d love to be on tour in 2013. Generally, that’s a good way to do it, especially if you can get your way paid as well. Where’s your favorite venue to play at in London? Favorite venue—probably the KOKO in London. It’s really cool. Just a nice place. It has an old theater-type vibe, but it’s really cool.

What advice do you have for musicians who are trying to begin the adventure of starting a band? What we’ve decided to do is pull back from gigging too much and not worry about chasing management or chasing industry people too much. We’ve just focused on the songs—that should always be the priority, really. So I’d say, “Don’t forget about the songs.” ▶▶

www.thestowawaysmusic.com

▶▶

www.koko.uk.com

▶▶

www.xoyo.co.uk

—Aaron Airmet

Check out more of the interview with the band online.

www.stowawaymag.com ◀ 63

off the beaten path

Hang on Tight Wild Animal Rides

Vacations are a time to sit back, relax, and take in a change of scenery and a breath of fresh air. Then again, you could rev up your quiet vacation by throwing into the mix a wild ride atop an exotic animal. More travelers these days prefer to get off the beaten path and see the world from a different view. If you don’t mind a bumpy, shaky, sometimes downright frightening ride, hop on— you might just find yourself coming away with not only a cool story but also a new perspective of the world.

Wander across the Desert Camels provide the classic animalriding adventure. But before you climb on and become another

tourist-trap statistic, be clear on the price of your camel ride. Often you’ll be informed about the price of getting on, but don’t forget to also factor in the price of getting off! From atop these stinky, spit-squirting desert dwellers, take in the sights of the Pyramids in Giza, gaze across the rolling sands of the Sahara in Morocco, or get a bird’s-eye view of Jerusalem from the Mount of Olives. ▶▶

www.africafreak.com/blog/ top-5-camel-safaris-in-africa

Travelers can discover deserts from new heights atop a camel in Petra, Jordan.

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Show Off Your Strut

Get a real bird’s-eye view atop a bigeyed ostrich. Though unable to fly, they can run with more than just the feathers on their backs. As you climb on the back of an ostrich, its big eyes are blindfolded to keep the bird calm. Once you’re situated, make sure to hold on tight as the blindfold is removed because ostriches can reach speeds of 20–30 mph (32–48 kph), even with you on board. The best place to get your avian strut on

is at the ostrich capital of the world: Oudtshoorn, South Africa. You’ll be in for one unforgettable ride. ▶▶

www.oudtshoorn.com

Plod through Paddies It probably wouldn’t cross your mind to climb up onto the back of a cow, but the idea of riding livestock in Asia is a whole different story. Sometimes called “the living tractors of the East,” water buffalo are extremely useful to local farmers because of their ability to work in wet, muddy conditions. You can plod along on one of these long-horned beasts of burden and observe farmers in ankle-deep water, sporting their conical hats and harvesting rice paddies in southwestern Vietnam. If you start your ride in the Mekong Delta region early in the morning, you can look out over the incredible floating markets and see merchants along the delta loading up their boats with produce and goods. ▶▶

www.waterbuffalotours.com

Opposite page: photo by Igor “Aski” Kristov; right: photo by BockoPix

Amble to New Altitudes

Real adventure in the Himalayas is found not only in ascending Mount Everest, its highest peak, but also in riding around on top of a 2,200pound (997 kg), 7’2” (2.2 m) tall, long-haired bovine known as a yak. These pack animals are specifically adapted to high altitudes—generally residing at about 10,000–16,000 feet (about 3,000–5,000 m) above sea level. Despite their alarming size, yaks are actually quite friendly animals. And, as a bonus, their wool is naturally odor resistant. Even if your trip doesn’t include reaching the summit, you can still use a yak for a smaller mountain-trekking adventure, especially when crossing wide streams or rivers. Before arriving at the Himalayas, be sure to stop in at the Bodhnath Stupa, where traders in ancient times would stop to pray for a safe journey through the treacherous

Whether they’re brightly decorated or not, elephants offer an exciting ride.

mountains with their yaks. Or you can simply climb on a yak to get your picture taken, as long as you’re willing to pay its owner for this once-in-alifetime snapshot. ▶▶

www.caravanistan.com/ transport/yak-riding

Stomp through the Jungle

You might need to pray a little before settling onto the seemingly precarious bench perched as a saddle on an elephant’s back. Be warned: moseying along at a rapid 4.5 mph (7.2 kmh) pace and the swaying motions of an elephant’s gait may cause motion sickness. Chiang Mai, Thailand, is one of the best elephant-trekking locations. This city’s villages and

surrounding jungles are situated against the backdrop of the arboreal Doi Suthep Mountains, which are graced with a golden, red-roofed Buddhist temple, making this the perfect site for an elephant escapade. But don’t be surprised if you get hit by a stray branch or soaked by a spray from your elephant’s trunk as you cross through the Mae Wang River. ▶▶

www.chiangmaitotravel.com

—Mindy Leavitt

www.stowawaymag.com ◀ 65

off the beaten path

CHINATOWN beyond the gate

As a third-generation Chinese American, Christina Seid didn’t eat Panda Express until she was 20. “Real Chinese people don’t really eat General Tso’s chicken,” she says. There was no Panda Express where her family settled in Chinatown, New York City. Seid grew up immersed in Chinatown and proud of it. “There are very few people who could say their grandparents grew up there,” she says. Seid’s home was in the suburbs, but she spent her days in Chinatown. Living elsewhere didn’t separate her from her roots. When Seid’s grandparents immigrated to New York City from Guangzhou, China, in around 1920, Chinatown covered merely two blocks. It was a place for immigrants to gather for safety and solidarity. Those immigrants’ sacrifices built cultural havens for future generations, and Chinatowns worldwide followed suit, including 40 in the United States. You can discover the essence of these Chinatowns—that is, if you know how to find your way. ▶▶

www.christinaofchinatown.com

WHEN A FINGER POINTS TO THE MOON, THE IMBECILE LOOKS AT THE FINGER Just past the iconic Chinatown gates—a Chinatown staple—visitors are greeted by stacks of $3 T-shirts, overpriced jade trinkets, and tacky key chains. If you can get past the hoard of tourists, you may just find the proverbial moon—the true Chinatown.

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Above: A Chinatown boy with his rack of shoes to sell weaves through the streets of Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. Right: The bright colors of these Chinatown shops flow all the way from Market Street to where Christina Seid’s ice cream shop sits on Bayard Street.

There’s no secret to Chinatown except to choose your own adventure. Maybe you’ll find juicy, yellow loquats. Maybe you’ll buy some coconut cream buns. If you’re really lucky, maybe you’ll find a Chinese TV drama you didn’t realize was available in the United States. One thing you can be sure of finding is good prices for good food. Seid says, “They pour their heart and soul into their restaurants.” You can feed eight people for $30 if you find the right restaurant. You don’t have to doubt its authenticity; businesses can’t survive solely off of tourists, and locals demand fresh food for the best price.

You might think if you’ve seen one Chinatown, you’ve seen them all. Not so. San Francisco’s is known for its historical ambience. The one in Yokohama, Japan, invites visitors through any of its nine gates to revel in its theme-park atmosphere. Toronto’s has almost anything you could ever want to buy, if you can find it: Maoist paraphernalia, herbal medicine, or Japanese comics. All Chinatowns have one thing in common: just by crossing the street, you feel like you’re not just in a different city, but in a different country.

WHEN YOU SAY ONE THING, THE CLEVER PERSON UNDERSTANDS THREE Chinatown may not seem immediately welcoming, as many adult residents don’t speak much English. This supposed barrier can dishearten tourists, but it shouldn’t. Culture shock is normal, but the barriers are only imaginary, especially when it comes to the language. Residents of Chinatown are accustomed to dealing with foreign languages. Everyone used to speak Cantonese. But now many immigrants speak obscure Chinese dialects like Suzhou and Fujianese. “Basically, nobody can understand each other,” says Seid. “Cantonese and Mandarin— they’re so different already. Fujianese? It’s like if you spoke Swahili.” They’ve learned how to communicate with each other. You can too.

CONSIDER THE PAST AND YOU SHALL KNOW THE FUTURE Today, Chinatowns sprinkle the globe from the first ever in Manila, Philippines, to the recently renovated one in Incheon, South Korea. However, many Chinatowns have faded into the surrounding cities, leaving only about 20 of the original 40 that originated in the United States. Many second- and thirdgeneration immigrants are eager to assimilate into their new cultures. Chinatown is changing, Seid says. “I feel like it might be spreading out. Chinatown is not just our Chinatown.” Maybe it never was; Chinatowns are never static. You never know what you’re going to find, but one thing’s for sure: it will always be an adventure. All you have to do is reach beyond the gate. ▶▶

www.chinatownonline.org

—Christina Johnson

Lucky Numbers On the Chinese New Year— February 10 in 2013—magnificent firework displays will light up the night sky above Chinatowns everywhere. In keeping with Chinese tradition, participants may give small red envelopes containing money to children or to young, single friends. The amount of money is important, but not just any amount will do. Because certain numbers are considered to be lucky, giving a certain number of coins or bills is considered very auspicious. The luckiness of a number usually depends on what other Chinese words the number sounds like. Here are a few fortunate amounts to give to your lucky friends: 3 – In Chinese, the word for “three” reminds people of the word for

Opposite page: photo by Trey Ratcliff; right: photo by Peter Cigliano

“birth,” implying happy associations with new life. 6 – The word for “six” sounds like a word meaning “to do everything easily and smoothly.” This is a favorite number to bring luck to business deals. 8 – The word for the number eight sounds like “prosper” or “wealth.” 9 – Nine is a homophone for “long-lasting,” representing the gift of a long and lucky life.

—Clarise Insch

www.stowawaymag.com ◀ 69

service

A Forgotten Generation Serving the Elderly Abroad

Volunteers can serve as lifelines. “By engaging and bringing a little bit of life to the place,” McDowell says, “volunteers can make a huge difference.”

Board games are a great way to interact with the elderly and get everyone involved.

Her face lit up the room as we walked in. “You came back!” she exclaimed, a look of surprise on her smiling face. “We told you we’d be back!” my fellow volunteer replied. We sat down across from her and began what proved to be another lovely, entertaining visit with Madame Bienvenu, an 84-year-old French woman who had just moved into the nursing home. Knowing that she didn’t have family or friends, we looked forward to our weekly visits— and so did she.

The Forgotten Generation

When people look into volunteer opportunities abroad, most are initially drawn to humanitarian or child-oriented programs. Katie Nichols, an employee at CrossCultural Solutions, a service-abroad organization, notes that the elderly are often “a forgotten generation.” A mixture of fear, apathy, or unfamiliarity might keep you from volunteering with the elderly. Maybe

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the prospect of spending time helping children simply seems more fun. But volunteering with the forgotten generation can be just as enjoyable.

The Struggles They Face

Interacting with the elderly “can be a very mutually beneficial experience,” says Melanie McDowell, a program manager for another service-abroad organization, Connect-123. “Older people come with so much history,” she explains. There’s a lot to be learned from them, but unfortunately, so much of that history and knowledge can be lost. “A lot of these residents have been abandoned by their families,” says a volunteer. “So their only connection with the outside world is the staff.” However, overworked or understaffed agencies often don’t have enough time for that one-onone interaction. Without these connections with others, it’s hard for some residents to stave off pangs of loneliness.

Elderly people can certainly have their unique quirks—speaking very truthfully, using lingo from their youth, or repeating stories from the good ol’ days. But when you consider the scope of events their generation has witnessed, you can overlook their idiosyncrasies and realize what a goldmine of knowledge they have to offer. But even more important is what you can offer them. So how do volunteers make a difference? Two volunteers from different corners of the world each came with a unique set of skills and interests, offering something special and finding fulfillment in volunteering abroad with the elderly. Jessica Naval, from New Jersey, brought her recreational therapy education. Miroslav Waidinger, from the Czech Republic, brought his knowledge of cameras and computers. Naval jumped at the chance to participate in a university program offering a practical use for her education by working with nursing home residents in Atenas, Costa Rica. When the volunteers threw a carnival, Naval organized the fishing activity. “It was a huge hit,” she recalls, especially for one woman who couldn’t participate in other activities but was able to cast her line and catch a whole pile of magnetized plastic fish. “Recreation is important; games are important; laughing is important,” says Naval. “These games

Photo by Miroslav Waidinger

The Difference You Can Make

allow them to laugh and have a sense of joy, even if it’s just for a little bit.” After spending the school year teaching children in a classroom, Waidinger was happy to experience a change of pace for summer break. He left Prague for Toulon, France, where he visited elderly people in their homes, participated in activities at a local group center, and ran weekly technology and photography workshops. For Waidinger, the experience had a two-fold return. “I decided to combine the useful with the enjoyable,” he says. He wanted to practice his French, and he knew that his professional skills would enrich the lives of people he would serve. Waidinger’s favorite moment was when he saw an elderly woman shed tears of joy at learning how to

take photographs. “When her eyes were brimming with tears, for me that was a wonderful emotion,” he explains. “It’s a good feeling when someone rejoices over something.”

The Facts of Life

Volunteers can make a significant difference in the lives of elderly people all around the world. As Nichols from Cross-Cultural Solutions notes, often all they need is “some extra love, extra hugs in the morning, extra smiles— someone to come by and make sure that they’re doing well.” No special skills necessary. ▶▶

www.connect-123.com

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www.crossculturalsolutions.org

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www.petitsfreres.asso.fr

—Mindy Leavitt

Four Ways to Connect Art and Leisure ▶▶

Learn a new art

technique: painting, drawing, or pottery ▶▶

Hold an English afternoon tea

▶▶

Have a classic, blackand-white film night

Hobbies and Crafts ▶▶

Make fleece blankets— “no sew throw”

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Make holiday cards

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Make beaded jewelry

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Learn a new needlework technique

▶▶

Assemble jigsaw puzzles or model airplanes

Literature and Education ▶▶

Learn to write poetry

▶▶

Perfect the art of journaling or

Top: photo by Miroslav Waidinger; bottom: photo by Jessica Naval

scrapbooking ▶▶

Start a book club

▶▶

Learn to use a computer

Games and Entertainment ▶▶

Start a choir or band and have a concert night

▶▶

Hold game nights: bingo, chess, bowling

▶▶

Play brain-stimulating games such as Scrabble

Above: Dining on French cuisine, volunteers discover the culture of those they volunteer with. Below: An elderly woman in Costa Rica enjoys a game of bingo with volunteers.

www.stowawaymag.com ◀ 71

tales from the trip

Language Barriers “Let them eat cake,” said Marie Antoinette—except she never actually said that. And even if she had, she wouldn’t have used the word gateaux, which is the French translation of the English cake. The correct saying is, Qu’ils mangent de la brioche. Herein lies the language barrier. Comprehension sometimes gets lost somewhere in translation, and once

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comprehension is gone, you might as well give up on communication. Never have I felt more like a bumbling, moronic ogre than when I volunteered to help a French woman host her child’s birthday party. When the eight-year-olds spoke to me, I couldn’t understand a word they were saying. I was in charge of the candy toss and had the kids line

up to throw candy into a hat. But did I know the word for throw? Certainly not. What am I, some kind of genius? (To throw is lancer, by the way.) Throughout the party, whenever children wanted to speak to me, they had to act out what they wanted. It was a day of never-ending charades. I think that by the end of the day, they all knew I was an impostor.

Languages I pretend to speak: two. Languages I actually speak: one. For the entire day, I was almost a mute when around the children. It was only when I finally hung my head in shame, admitting to them that I was American, that I

realized that almost all of them spoke English too. And not only did they speak it, but they spoke it better than I do. I am a victim of slang mostly because I’ve made myself one; all I ever use is slang. These eight-year-olds were using words

like obligated and necessary and appropriate. Languages I pretend to speak: two. Languages I actually speak: zero.

—Kaitlin Fitts Las Vegas, Nevada

Lost in Europe In 2008, I took a trip to Europe to visit my best friend, Angela, who was attending school in Lugano, Switzerland. After that, I would meet my mother and aunts for a cruise of the Greek Isles. I had never traveled alone, least of all to Europe, and I was anxious. After traveling by train through Switzerland and Italy with my friend, it was time to fly to Athens alone to meet my mom and aunts. I got on the plane and ended up sitting next to a fellow American traveler from Boston. He seemed nice enough. Once we were in the Athens airport, he convinced me to take a bus instead of the train into the city because it was half the price. Big mistake.

The buses were crowded and smelly, and to top it off, this Bostonian tried to kiss me. While trying politely to deny this overzealous flirt, I was also trying to find the stop where my family would be waiting for me. But none of the signs were in English, and not one coincided with my map. Finally, I just got off at a random stop to get away from him—and found myself alone in the middle of an enormous city on a 100-degree day. After talking to five different people, hopping onto two different trains, and hiking three giant hills— and doing it all in that dry heat—I finally arrived at the right stop. But my mom and aunts were nowhere

to be seen. So I headed for the hotel, only to get confused and lost again! Finally, I asked a Greek man on the street where my hotel might be, and he responded, “Follow me.” By this time, I was more than a little wary of following strange men’s advice, so I said, “No, actually, could just tell me what street it’s on?” Greek man: “No! Follow me.” So for the second time that day, I blindly followed a stranger in a foreign place. This time, I ended up right in front of my hotel. I was surprised but grateful. Faith in humanity restored.

—Amanda Pratt Sandy, Utah

Photo by Trey Ratcliff

For Narnia! While walking down the streets of China, I would constantly hear people shout what sounded like, “For Narnia!” My fellow teachers and I were surprised by this expression and soon decided to put our fists up in the air and repeat the motivational cry each time we heard the phrase. How cool, we thought, Chinese people know about Narnia and love it so much! For three months, we continued to enjoy this regular occurrence. It was another normal day when we heard the chant once again. “For

Narnia!” we replied with all possible enthusiasm. But that day Huang Yi, a native Chinese man, happened to comment on our strange reply. “Why did you guys shout that?” he asked in utter confusion. We explained how excited we were that the Chinese people love C. S. Lewis as much as we do. It was then that Yi let us in on the embarrassing facts. “Cha nania means ‘where are you going?’ in Chinese,” he said. We were stunned as we realized that all this time, people had been

asking us where we were going—and we would do nothing more than raise our fists and shout back the question with enthusiasm. I can only imagine what those Chinese people must have thought of us crazy Americans. Even to this day when I hear cha nania, I imagine them saying, “For Narnia!”

—Amber Cosgrove Camden, North Carolina

www.stowawaymag.com ◀ 73

photo contest

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First Place Badge of Honor

When I asked this Russian veteran if I could take his picture, he energetically replied, “ясно!” (Russian for “Clearly!”) I took his picture, he saluted, and he walked away.

—Logan Havens Tocquerville, Utah

www.stowawaymag.com ◀ 75

Second Place Purple Dawn

One morning in the Andaman Islands in India, I peeked out the door of our bamboo hut and saw that all the water had receded and the sun was just beginning to rise. Everything was so flat and so clear; I felt like I could have walked out to greet the sun.

—Mallory Stevens Provo, Utah

Third Place Holding On

View honorable mentions on our website and submit your own photos to our photo contest. 76 ▶ winter 2013

“I saw a man in the distance bending and throwing as he walked the endless stretch toward me. As he came near, I could see that he was throwing starfish, abandoned on the sand by the tide, back into the sea. When he was close enough I asked him why he was working so hard at this strange task. He said that the sun would dry the starfish and they would die. I said to him that I thought he was foolish. There were thousands of starfish on miles and miles of beach. One man alone could never make a difference. He smiled as he picked up the next starfish. Hurling it far into the sea he said, ‘It makes a difference for this one.’” (Loren Eiseley, The Unexpected Universe)

—Theo Harris Chicago, Illinois

Insider Photo courtesy of Bonito Club

Placed atop the front façade of Grand Central Terminal is the Roman god Mercury, the god of travelers and speed.

Gadgets & Gear

Tips & Tricks

Just the Ticket

Insights

Now you can rival Q’s inventions for James Bond with your own great spy gadgets.

Bring home that perfect souvenir, or take these essentials with you on your next trip.

Take a mystery vacation to new adventures with “no-destination flying.”

Discover the history of New York City’s Grand Central Terminal, or uncover the legend of a hidden waterfall in New Zealand.

www.stowawaymag.com ◀ 77

gadgets & gear

Going Undercover:

007* ™

Spy Sunglasses $97

These may look like ordinary travel items. But they have all of the usual refinements, as Q would say, for a man or a woman on holiday to travel in 007 style.

—Julie Ogborn

Spy Gear Lever $21–$45

Now this is a gadget Q would be especially keen on. When planning your amazing getaway, remember Bond’s new set of wheels in Goldfinger (1964), his first Aston Martin DB5, equipped with a secret compartment in its gear lever. Unfortunately, you won’t find a little red button inside these gear levers, but you will find a top-secret place to conceal your valuables (such as money, memory cards, and jewelry), keeping them nearby while you skid around corners and maneuver expertly through side streets during your escape. This spy gear item will go undetected because custom styles may be available to match your car. But for extremely undercover vehicles, try the StashKnob or the Billet Gear Shift, available in charcoal or red.

No 007 travel gear list would be complete without spy shades. Reminiscent of the X-ray shades that Bond uses to check his opponents for weapons in The World Is Not Enough (1999), these Lightahead™ DVR Mp3 Spy Sunglasses also have some very interesting modifications. Equipped with external memory storage on a 128MB–8GB TF card, standard USB 2.0 port, and a 480 MAH lithium-ion polymer rechargeable battery, these shades record audio, photo, and video files—saving them for easy transfer to your computer after your trip. ▶▶

www.sears.com

Spy Leg Wallet $20

▶▶

www.gowesty.com

If you don’t have a snapping pocket trap like James Bond in Diamonds Are Forever (1971), the next best thing is to store your valuables somewhere completely unexpected. Introducing the SV868 Undercover™ Leg Wallet from Eagle Creek, the very latest in travel document security. This stylish black wallet straps flat to your calf just above the ankle, keeping you looking trim in your jeans, suit, or tuxedo, while all of your must-haves are safely tucked away.

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www.amazon.com

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www.magellans.com/store

Spy Pocket Scarf $19

Spy Bra Wallet $14

Like Bond’s most concealable spy tool, the Aston Martin V12 Vanquisher in Die Another Day (2002), this fun piece of “adaptive camouflage” is so small and sleek that it’s absolutely invisible. The Silk Undercover™ Bra Stash snaps comfortably and securely around the center, side strap, or shoulder strap of a bra, keeping valuables safe in all of your spy travels. It comes in two shades, black or rose, and is even discreet enough to wear with a strapless cocktail dress—that is, if you’ve tucked one away in your luggage, just in case. ▶▶

Want to look as stylish as Bond’s female co-stars always do? Introducing the fashionable Infinity spy scarf with a hidden pocket. Double it up for the draped neckline look of Miranda Frost in Die Another Day (2002). Wear it like a hood for the style of the Japanese spy Aki in You Only Live Twice (1967). Or let it drape to its full length over any shirt, sweater, or dress for that swooping cowl neckline that Bond can rarely resist. Whichever way you wear it, this lightweight fashion accessory is a sleek way to discretely carry cash, a credit card, or a key while you travel. It’s available in a variety of colors and patterns perfect for any season or destination. ▶▶

www.etsy.com/shop /WrappedCreations

www.shop.eaglecreek.com

DVR Spy Pen $41

Spy Heels $145–$295

The very latest in spy fashion are these stylish, feminine versions of the spy shoes Bond uses in Goldfinger (1964) to hide his homing beacons. Pickpockets have met their match with the design improvements found in Double Agent Shoes™ by Bellona Fashions Inc., equipped with a hidden compartment in the heel that opens back for quick, convenient, inconspicuous access. Handmade and available in many great styles, these shoes are a must-have for every female spy traveler. Conceal your room key, money, memory cards, or even lipstick, and enjoy their safekeeping in style. ▶▶

www.doubleagentshoes.com

Where would Bond be without his favorite spy pens that double as a Class 4 grenade in Golden Eye (1995) or as a listening device in Octopussy (1983)? This seemingly ordinary ballpoint pen, the cect® Mini DVR Spy Pen, has 16 GB (or 16 hours) of camera, audio, and video recording capacity and is equipped with a mini USB port, a micro SD card slot, and a high-capacity lithium-ion polymer rechargeable battery—and the sleek professional design goes without saying. Capture every imperative detail so that you can preserve your travel experiences with 100% clarity without destroying your expensive digital camera in a grenade blast. ▶▶

www.sears.com

Test your Bond IQ in our online Bond Gear Trivia quiz. www.stowawaymag.com ◀ 79

tips ＆ tricks

Telltale Souvenirs As you may have noticed, employees of the International Transportation Security Administration (TSA) are paid to inspect the contents of your suitcases every time you travel. They see everything one suitcase at a time through the power of x-ray vision on a tiny computer screen. These employees could probably tell us which travelers typically buy which kinds of souvenirs. Take a look at the following popular souvenir trends. Do they say anything about you, or are you an exception from the stereotype? And if you notice that you follow more than one of these trends, good luck finding enough room in your suitcase to bring everything home! —Lauren Grange

Miniature Spoons, Thimbles, and Bells These fancy pieces from your latest vacation might peg you as being over the age of 50. Of course, there are those people who buy them just for the novelty of having miniature things. These cute little souvenirs are easy to collect, assuming you still have enough space to display them in your china cabinet.

Candy Bars and Unusual Snack Foods Often a favorite souvenir for the hungry adventurer and food connoisseur, food can be one of the most rewarding (and fattening) souvenirs because you get to eat what you buy. But beware that not everyone will want to share your favorite foreign treat, so you may be eating solo. Oh, and chocolate doesn’t always travel well.

Clothes, Scarves, Knock-offs, and Jewelry If you find yourself arriving home from foreign places with a few new trendy pieces for your wardrobe, you just might be a fashionista. Fashionistas are usually stylish travelers who pick up the newest (or most popular) trends around the world from expensive Italian boutiques or from the much more affordable Taiwanese street vendors. You can usually pick them out in line at the airport—just look for the Prada knock-off handbags.

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Pamphlets, Tickets, and Paper Paraphernalia You might find yourself collecting every ticket and pamphlet you can get your hands on and pasting them into a journal or notebook for safekeeping. These souvenirs regularly appear next to recently purchased old books or playbills, which likely tag you as a literature fan or a scrapbooker. Even if you aren’t going to paste them in a crafty binder, these pieces of assorted paper are an easy way to remember where you went or what you saw without taking pictures.

Rare Display Items Every once in a while (or every time you travel) you find at least one pricey item that absolutely must be added to your bookshelf. It may be a two-foot-tall dragon statue, a miniature replica of the monument you visited, or a vintage bookend. Guaranteed, it comes with a story that will be told over and over again every time someone asks where you found it. These souvenirs are usually purchased by the rich and famous—or the stingy but willing.

Flag Patches and Country Buttons If you have a few of those little fabric patches with different flags on them, or a few clever buttons with witty phrases, and all of them are attached to a giant backpack, you might be a hipster. There really isn’t a better way to say you’ve been somewhere—without actually saying it— than sewing or sticking one of these little pre-made decorations where people will see it. Everyone will know you traveled there before it was cool.

Illustrations by Cody Harter

T-shirts, Sweatshirts, and Mugs These somewhat useful souvenirs scream, “I went somewhere cool, and I want everyone to know it!” They are commonly found in suitcases owned by poor university students who can’t think of (or can’t afford) anything more useful to bring home. Not a bad buy, though, especially because you were probably able to easily find these items at many tourist stops for very low prices.

www.stowawaymag.com ◀ 81

tips ＆ tricks

So They Lost Your Luggage? “Airline Essentials Kit?” Comedian Brian Regan pokes fun at this obvious misnomer in his hilarious routine: “Oh, these are the essentials . . . then I overpacked. I thought I needed all that stuff I meticulously put in my suitcase—I stand corrected.” Prepare for disappearing luggage by stashing the following items in your carry-on. While our essentials kit may not include everything Regan requires—“food, shelter, and love”—you’ll at least be able to stay healthy, clean, and rested during your temporary stay at the airport.

To stay fed and cared for during that 14-hour flight delay, stash healthy snacks, extra funds, and first-aid items to prepare for paper cuts from playing cards and other hazards of your new life in the terminal. ▶▶

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Emerald® Breakfast on the Go! Granola mix 1.5 oz., $1 American Express Prepaid Credit Cards (convenient without funding a stranger’s spending spree if you lose one), $20–$500 “Last resort” cash (tuck $20 in your shoe or read our 007 spy gear article on pages 78–79 for more sophisticated ways to stash cash) Neo To Go! Neosporin® Antiseptic, Pain Relieving spray, $8 Band-Aid® Travel 8 pack fabric bandages, $1

Clean

For sustainable airport living, pack this compact hygiene and laundry kit, transforming airport sinks and hand driers into your personal dentist office, laundromat, and salon. ▶▶

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Colgate® Wisps® mini toothbrush and pick, $2 Listerine® PocketPaks Dissolving Breath Strips, $2

Rested

Camp out in clear sight of the help desk while you await your bag’s return. If only there were some TSAapproved way to roast marshmallows. ▶▶

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Oscar Blandi® Pronto 2.5 oz. Dry Shampoo Powder, $21

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Magellan’s Flexible Sink Stopper drain plug, $4

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Coghlan’s Camp Soap 2 oz., $3 Boottique® Sturdy Collapsible Hanger, $10 Travel Smith® Wrinkle-free, Quick-dry clothes, $18–$85

TravelRest® Inflatable Ergonomic Travel Pillow, $27 SKWOOSH™ Pro Traveler Foldable Seat Cushion, $40 CoolMax® Travel Blanket, $8–$25 My TSA mobile app with “Can I bring my . . . ?” search tool, $0 List of prohibited items from www.tsa.gov (for keeping your carry-on items out of the airport trash and avoiding a strip search, so you can have a good night’s sleep), priceless!

—Julie Ogborn and Coleman Bonham

Be Koool® Migraine Soft Gel Sheets, $6

Enjoy Brian Regan’s take on travel catastrophes online.

82 ▶ winter 2013

Photo by Roadsidepictures

Healthy

just the ticket

On the Plane to

Anywhere You don’t always have to have a particular destination in mind when you travel. Maybe you just want to get away from your familiar hometown to any city that will take you in.

Photo courtesy of Juliana G. Cox

No-destination flying can be the perfect way to find a new place to spend the weekend. In this traveling trend, the specifics of destinations are irrelevant: the important part of traveling is escaping the tedious routine of your normal life and getting out of your comfort zone. Rather than feeling obligated to see momentous and over-photographed tourist sites, you can focus on connecting with regular people living in regular cities across the world. No-destination flying proves that you can find adventure anywhere—not just at the world’s 100 most popular tourist sites. Several websites and airlines offer ways to find cheap, last-minute flights to locations all over the world. You need only specify a departure

airport, a range of departure dates, and a budget—and these sites will find airline deals that you can take advantage of. Just know that the best deals often last only a matter of days or even hours. You can also find deals by asking airlines to notify you personally. Most airlines send out weekly emails of their best deals to those who subscribe. If you don’t want a series of emails clogging up your inbox, some sites, like www.smartertravel.com and www.airfarewatchdog.com, will aggregate the best deals from several airlines. These last-minute flight notifications mean that you won’t have to do all of the searching yourself. A more personalized option than wading through websites or receiving mass emails is calling travel

agencies and airlines directly to ask about available deals. Airlines generally have employees with the title of “revenue manager,” whose job is to fill flights that are already scheduled to leave. Sometimes prices are lowered dramatically as the departure date approaches. Airline employees may know about deals that aren’t available online; their knowledge and expertise can save you time and money. The next time you find yourself wanting to get away from your everyday life, consider giving no-destination flying a whirl. For as little as $150, you could find yourself with a roundtrip ticket to adventure.

—Nichole Eck

Finding Your Flight www.Kayak.com/explore displays a large map of the world and puts price points at available destinations. www.Skyscanner.com is a fairly intuitive site and collects deals from several airlines for you to browse. www.Drungli.com is a brand-new site that caters solely to no-destination flying. Currently, it serves only European airlines, but an expansion into the United States is in the works.

www.stowawaymag.com ◀ 83

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insights

Grand Central’s

As the clock struck midnight on February 2, 1913, a crowd of 3,000 people rushed into the new Grand Central Terminal, eagerly awaiting the first electric train departures and arrivals. By the end of the day, more than 150,000 New Yorkers gazed upon the magnificence of Grand Central, a building that would become the heartbeat of New York City. Today, the terminal, commonly known by its earlier name, Grand Central Station, stands as a celebrated and miraculous union of design and engineering, the first and only of its kind at the time. In essence, the triumphal gateway to New York City was created of the people, by the people, and for the people. This February, Grand Central Terminal, an American legacy, commemorates its one-hundredth anniversary.

In 1899, 14 years before the opening of the new terminal, the New York Times referred to the station as “a cruel disgrace.” Owned by railroad tycoon Cornelius Vanderbilt, Grand Central Station occupied 23 acres of railroad tracks; a deluge of steel and steam, creating an environmental nightmare as the trains spewed smoke, cinders, and noise. New Yorkers began to fear the Vanderbilts’ railroad monopoly, feeling it was too powerful and not conducive to public transportation. The speeding iron horses cruised heedlessly through dark tunnels and dangerous passageways. What was meant to facilitate travel became inconvenient and dangerous. Then on January 8, 1902, the public’s fears were confirmed: the worst train crash in New York history occurred ominously close to the dysfunctional

Taken circa 1908, this photo shows the excavations for New York’s Grand Central Station.

86 ▶ winter 2013

station. Fifteen people were killed instantly; many others were burned and wounded. The city was enraged. Outcries led New York to ban trains from running in the city. Something had to change. William Wilgus, a brilliant civil engineer, saw a solution: replace the iron trains with electric ones. Electric trains allowed railways to run underground, increasing travel capacity threefold. The plan was simple, elegant, ingenuous. Wilgus’s $70 million project was self-financed, taking zero money from the already skeptical public. Developers began buying air rights to build businesses above the underground tracks on Park Avenue. Wilgus’s idea changed not only the future of the railway but also the landscape of the American enterprise. From 1903 to 1913, a new terminal housed the most organized and efficient electric train railing known to the world. What makes Grand Central Terminal so majestic is its incredible architecture—the work of Whitney Warren. The exterior has three grand arches with a 1,500-ton sculpture of Mercury, Hercules, and Minerva. The entrance to Grand Central showcases the perfect balance of stamina, empiricism, and grace: Tennessee marble floors, highscaling windows, and vaulted ceilings featuring a finely etched and painted mural of the night sky—not to mention the imposing scale. For years, Grand Central Terminal reliably served Northeast America. During World War II, it acted as the main hub for transporting troops. A top-secret basement known as M-42

Photo courtesy of Detroit Publishing Company Collection

Grand Centennial

Photo by Chris Bojanovich

Extensive renovations have transformed the terminal to reflect a city within the city. lies nine stories below the lowest floor. During the war, a shoot-andkill order was enforced for anyone who entered the basement, since the M-42 controlled the movements of the trains carrying the troops. Today the location of the M-42 basement still doesn’t appear on maps. Shortly after the war, airplanes replaced trains for long-distance travel. Although commuters still used the terminal, there were estimated losses of $20 million. Low funds led to a lack of propriety at Grand Central: broken water fountains were used as trashcans; dirty posters covered the walls; and the roof leaked. In 1968, plans to construct a 55-story skyscraper atop Grand Central would demolish either the Main Waiting Room or the palace-like façade. New Yorkers got involved in 1975 and formed the Committee to Save Grand Central. News of Grand Central touched Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, who dedicated her time to protecting the historic landmark. “Old buildings are important,” she said. “If we don’t care about our past, we cannot hope for our future.” Thanks to the former First Lady’s perseverance and a ruling by the Supreme Court in 1978, Grand Central Terminal was dubbed a historical landmark.

Gold-plated chandeliers line the hallways of the newly refurbished Grand Central.

Since then, extensive renovations have transformed the terminal to reflect a city within the city; it features five exquisite restaurants and cocktail lounges, 20 casual international eateries, a Grand Central Market, and 50 specialty shops. To commemorate Grand Central’s one-hundredth birthday this February, the city has planned several events throughout the year. A grander entrance to Vanderbilt Hall, the original Main Waiting Room, is underway, celebrating Vanderbilt’s railroad success. In May, a parade of historic trains will honor the terminal’s grand history. This fall, an exhibition called The Next 100 Years will showcase how Grand Central

Terminal continues to inspire future travel innovations and improvements. In 1913, the New York Times rescinded their words from 1899 and instead called Grand Central a “station, a monument, a civic center, or if one will, a city: the greatest station in the United States, but the greatest of any type in the world.” Grand Central Terminal is an echo of the past, of journeys that have been, and of journeys yet to come. So long as this heart of New York City continues to beat, the city truly will never sleep. ▶▶

www.grandcentralterminal.com

—Audrey E. Blake

www.stowawaymag.com ◀ 87

insights

hidden ın the mıst

A Māori Legend

88 ▶ winter 2013

Photo by Clarise Insch; illustration courtesy of vectorportal.com

insights

Legends dwell in just about every nook of New Zealand. One such legend tells of a dramatic way that Te Ruinga, a mighty warrior, tested his men’s bravery. To find the bravest men to fight against the tyrant Tapaue, Te Ruinga traveled to Te Wai Heke o Maoa (Maoa’s Waterfall). He dammed up the river at the top of the hill, while his warriors lay on the streambed below. When Te Ruinga released the water full force upon his soldiers, they did not flinch. Their bravery later led them to victory against Tapaue, freeing their people from his tyranny. It has been many years since the time of Te Ruinga, but visitors still feel an almost supernatural connection—known as mana—to the land and its history. American Anita Torres, a seven-year resident of New Zealand, felt that connection when she ventured with her daughter, Megan Andrews, on a “bushwalk” through Harker Reserve, home of the Te Wai Heke o Maoa waterfall in the city of Onewhero. “When we stepped through the trees into the hidden land of the waterfall,” says Torres, “I felt the mana of the Māori warriors who had come to this place not only to prove their bravery but to draw strength from the power of the water and the land. It is a place outside of time, and the past seemed to be dwelling alongside the present.”

Nature’s Welcome

The atmosphere quieted as mother and daughter began their trek through the forest. It was as though they had stepped into Mother Nature’s private chamber. Trees rose high into the sky, diminishing the sunlight. “There was a broad path, and then suddenly we saw a little signpost inviting us to go off the trail,” says Torres. As they stepped off the wider trail, the

less-traveled path became much wilder and more isolated, providing a more intimate experience and allowing them to lose themselves in the same forest that Te Ruinga’s warriors knew so well ages ago. Torres and her daughter were greeted by the local fantails, one of the bird varieties New Zealand is known for. “As we trudged through the bush,” says Torres, “a little fantail danced along the path in front of us, encouraging us onward, chattering all the way like a cassette tape on fast forward.” The more the birds’ prattl ing filled the air, the more the hikers delved into Nature’s territory, where trees grew close together and roots became their stepping-stones.

Nature’s Power

A powerful mist dowsed the visitors before they could even see the falls. But more astounding was the sight of the falls, cascading down 20 feet onto giant, moss-covered boulders. No barriers separated the hikers from the towering waterfall or from its roaring flow washing past. Drawn to the power of the falls, Andrews stepped away from her mother toward the slippery rocks, determined to climb close enough to touch the water. “I was nervous that the water could drag me in and carry me away,” she says. “But when I touched it, I just felt so connected with this place.” The thrill coursed through her as she climbed back, soaking wet, to her mother. The draw to the New Zealand wilderness is a call difficult to ignore. Just as the legend of Te Ruinga and the power of Te Wai o Maoa enticed these women to have a spiritual experience, New Zealand’s hallowed sanctuaries of time and nature still draw adventurers from around the world.

—Clarise Insch

A Bird’s-eye View New Zealanders take great pains to protect their native birds by building bird sanctuaries. Following are some of the species that can be found at the Harker Reserve in Onewhero.

Fantail (Piwakawaka) Fantails are attracted to bugs that fly up in reaction to humans walking past. Most people are happy to help the fantail find food because it often means they will get to behold the tail feather display, for which these birds are famous.

New Zealand Pigeon (Kereru) This bird is often called the wood pigeon, but it is not much like the American idea of a wood pigeon. The Māoris used the feathers of the kereru to make striking cloaks. These birds make a remarkable addition to most forests, especially when they spread their wings, because they are known for making a distinctive sound as they take flight.

Tui Tuis are sometimes known for creating a bit of confusion with their wide vocal range. They have been known to imitate the sound of a doorbell ringing, sending unsuspecting homeowners to answer empty doorways. Tuis have this range of voice because of the white orbs beneath the tuis’ throats.

www.stowawaymag.com ◀ 89

escapades

Make Your Own Valentine Escape A box of chocolates is not the only way to impress your sweetheart on Valentine’s Day or any other day. That’s just plain boring! Look at these getaways that are perfectly tailored to fit your style as a couple. They will be sure to win you some major brownie points this year. —Bethanie Thatcher

Nature Lovers For the environmentally conscious couple, nothing could be better than spending time with those you love most: your sweetheart and the great outdoors. Bring your climbing gear and head over to Maple Canyon in Fountain Green, Utah, for an inexpensive but beautiful escape. The canyon’s gorgeous hiking trails, its spectacular caves, and—most of all— its world-class rock climbing routes make Maple Canyon the perfect backdrop for your getaway together. Spend your nights camping under the stars and your days conquering the hobble-stone mountain faces side by side. If the weather doesn’t cooperate with your plans, seek shelter at the Red Apple Cottage, only a few miles away from the canyon. This cottage is a great way to spend time close to nature while you and your sweetheart remain dry and warm. ▶▶

www.redapplecottage.com

Game Day Junkies For sports-loving couples, cheering on your favorite team is the perfect way to spend quality time together. The best event for you is Super Bowl XLVII on February 3 in New Orleans, Louisiana. This will be the first Super Bowl held in the Mercedes-Benz Superdome after its $85 million renovations in 2011. You’ll never forget this championship game, and maybe you’ll even be able to share a quick kiss on the JumboTron’s Kiss Cam. Lucky for you, this year’s Mardi Gras falls only a few days later, on February 12. You can always use its festivities, music, and parades as an excuse to extend your trip together. Challenge each other to see who can take the best snapshot with the crazy parade goers. Winning could mean bragging rights for a whole year. (And we all know how much you love to win.) ▶▶

www.stubhub.com/super-bowl-tickets

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Adventure Seekers For couples who love trying new things, spend a week at Rowse’s 1+1 Ranch in Burwell, Nebraska, right at the heart of the state. Rowse’s is a working ranch that allows travelers to experience what ranch life is all about. Stays include your own horse and tack, a cabin room, riding lessons, roping lessons, and home-cooked meals. This ranch experience makes for an exciting escapade, bringing you two closer together in the great plains of Nebraska. ▶▶

www.1plus1ranch.com

Big Spenders If you show love by lavishing your sweetheart with expensive gifts and extravagant trips, try spending the weekend at a couples-only retreat in the Pocono Mountains in Pennsylvania. The Cove Pocono Resort includes three hotels that only allow couples, which helps to maintain a romantic atmosphere. You can spend the weekend pampering yourselves in the spas or feasting together at the fine dining restaurants. These resorts are the perfect way to feed your expensive travel tastes while spending time with the person you love. And if you both grow tired of the resort scene, New York City is only two hours away! ▶▶

www.covepoconoresorts.com

Photo by Abbey Kyhl

Comic Book Gurus If discussing comic book characters or playing the latest video game sounds like the perfect date, then this is just the type of romance you are looking for. Get down to Orlando, Florida, on March 15–17 for MegaCon 2013. More than just a comic book convention, MegaCon also includes anime, gaming, and multimedia events. Even though this event isn’t in February, it will still be the perfect way to romance your honey! You can stay at the Doubletree by Hilton in Orlando, where you will be less than a mile away from the convention. Meet John DiMaggio, the voice of Bender on Futurama—or Patrick Stewart, Professor Xavier in the X-Men movies. And what could be more romantic than an autograph from Neal Adams, the artist for DC Comics’ Superman, Batman, and Green Arrow? Don’t forget to bring your favorite comic book costumes, so you can go as your favorite superhero couple. Who will it be—Catwoman and Batman or Invisible Woman and Mr. Fantastic? ▶▶

www.megaconvention.com

www.stowawaymag.com ◀ 91

staff essay

More Than

Photo by Valentyn Volkov

Mango Juice I sit writing in the tube somewhere in the depths of London Underground. It’s not until I put my pen and black notebook down— black ink stained on my pinky finger—that I really look at the people sitting around me. It is after nine at night, so the normal working crowd has already made it home. The closer to the heart of the city my rumbling tube car comes, the more travelers hop aboard. It started with a few teenagers decked out in silver glitter and black trainers, though they were soon surrounded, as I am, by the laborers: the people who make the city move—the people who moved to the city. A quiet black man dressed in a faded brown suit finds a place on my row of blue plastic-covered seats, leaving one empty chair between us. I hate that empty chair—that chair that signals space for the invisible wall between two people who don’t know each other. But he surprises

me by putting a cardboard box on the chair. Its top is open, allowing me to view the contents, like I somehow have a peephole through our wall. It is filled with boxes of mango juice. What a strange thing to carry around, I think. Given this little window of opportunity, this little clue to a fellow traveler’s story, I ask aloud, “What is all the mango juice for?” The man turns to me with a wide smile. It isn’t one of those fake smiles he might give to placate someone too curious for her own good—it is a genuine smile of acceptance. “I love mangoes,” he tells me in his thick Congolese accent. And before I know it, he tells me his life story: how he came to London from the Democratic Republic of the Congo, how he started working at a hotel in the city, why he lives with his brother, why he takes boxes of mango juice to his apartment every week and drinks them so fast he has to buy an entire new case every Friday. He

says that mango juice reminds him of his homeland. And the whole time he is talking, he smiles. It’s infectious, that orange-slice grin. But even his smile is nothing compared to the way his words light up the tube car. Others sitting nearby silently eavesdrop, smiling with their eyes as they listen. A few glance our way every few moments. I’m grateful that I don’t have to hide my joy. This man’s story fills me with understanding. As I sit talking to my new friend, I begin to learn why I travel. I travel for stories, for the knowledge that comes from others and from experiences I will never have. When he stands to leave, the smiling man offers me a box of mango juice. I shake my head. I have received more than he knows from his words. He has given me more than mango juice.

—Lauren Grange

www.stowawaymag.com ◀ 93

Photo Credit: See style guide to review credit wording before writing this.

photo contest

94 â&#x2013;ś summer 2012

photo contest

Parting Shot Visitors quietly roam the grounds of the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque in Abu Dhabi, UAE. —Tracee Tibbitts

www.stowawaymag.com ◀ 95

There isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t an app for this.

Live, learn, and work with a community overseas. Be a Volunteer.

96 â&#x2013;ś summer 2012

peacecorps.gov