Paradise: the in-flight magazine of Air Niugini, Vol 2 2015 by Business Advantage International

Paradise The in-flight magazine of Air NiuginI volume 2 march – april 2015

A bird in the hand

Bucket list

The best things to see and do in PNG

COUNTRY GUIDE

Everything you need to know about Fiji

CHEERS

A review of the South Pacific’s boutique beers

PLUS:

Culture, art, movies, books, gadgets and a special Kokoda gear guide

in paradise

contentS AIRLINE NEWS

THE LATEST FROM AIR NIUGINI

8 Cultural obligation fulfilled at Bougainville 10 Rabaul’s tourism push 11 Air Niugini partners with WA wines 12 A message from Air Niugini’s chairman

DEPARTURE LOUNGE NEWS, BRIEFINGS, LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

14 Village stay on hot list 15 Shakespeare on the way to Port Moresby 16 Rolling Stone Mick Jagger’s PNG visit 16 Excitement builds for the Pacific Games 17 Q&A with one of the world’s top butlers 18 Ask The Pilot 20 New five-star hotel in Jakarta 20 Miss Pacific Island quest

Exotic Madang

We take a look at what makes this city tick, from the friendly locals to World War 2 wrecks.

TRAVELLER OUR COUNTRY, OUR REGION, OUR WORLD

PNG bucket list The best things to see and do: dive, trek, fish, surf, and just relax.

The Birdman Jungle adventures with an avid birdwatcher.

Kokoda gear guide What to take on the arduous trek.

Adventure in the Philippines A paddling trip into an underground river.

Country guide Swimming with sharks and other delights in Fiji. Three of a kind Taxi etiquette in Port Moresby, Singapore and Tokyo. Time Traveller

4 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

Singapore bling Prepare to be wowed at the Fullerton Bay Hotel.

58 72 74

in paradise

contentS

LIVING LIFESTYLE, CULTURE, SPORT, ENTERTAINMENT

The Collectors Take a peek at two outstanding New Guinea art collections.

Book previews

112 114

Movie previews

Life’s sweet as apple pie The PNG chef who is making his mark in Australia.

Passion play How rugby league has become an obsession in PNG.

104

Cheers Our Great South Pacific Beer Guide. Port Moresby by night A local’s take on where to go drinking, eating and dancing.

87 94

Architectural digest The bold and beautiful buildings of Kuala Lumpur.

100

Gadgets and travel accessories

110

STRICTLY BUSINESS

BRAIN GYM

PEOPLE, COMPANIES, INDUSTRIES

QUIZ, PUZZLES, CROSSWORD

New life in the Ok Tedi mine COO outlines his strategy for the future.

116 What we’ve learned in PNG ExxonMobil’s departing MD reflects. 118 Global perception How the Pacific Games will reshape the world view of PNG. 120 Port overhaul Big plans for new dockside facilities at Motukea Island. Money strategy The financial services group that is racking up the numbers in PNG. Entrepreneur profile Linda Paru on how to succeed in business.

123

Crossword and puzzles Solutions

130 133

ARRIVALS LOUNGE PNG VISITOR GUIDE

Advice, where to eat, hotels and other helpful tips

134

AIR NIUGINI PASSENGER INFORMATION

140

125 127

Cover photo: An elusive bird of paradise. Photo: David Kirkland (See our story on the jungle adventures of The Birdman on page 32.) March – April 2015

Paradise

Paradise is the complimentary in-flight magazine of Air Niugini, Papua New Guinea’s international airline. Business Advantage International publishes it six times a year. BUSINESS ADVANTAGE INTERNATIONAL

EDITORIAL

PUBLISHING DIRECTOR Andrew Wilkins

EDITOR Robert Upe

COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR Robert Hamilton Jones

STAFF WRITERS Kevin McQuillan, Ben Creagh

ADVERTISING ACCOUNT MANAGER Anthony Leydin +61 (0)415 586 027 al@businessadvantageinternational.com

CONTRIBUTORS Richard Andrews, Andrew Bain, John Borthwick, Greg Clarke, Roderick Eime, Carla Ewin, Susan Gough Henly, Sally Hammond, Brian Johnston, Nina Karnikowski, Dorian Mode, Mary O’Brien, Craig Tansley, John Wright

Business Advantage International Pty Ltd Level 23, HWT Tower 40 City Road, Southgate VIC 3006, Australia Tel +61 3 9674 7129 Fax +61 3 9674 0400 www.businessadvantageinternational.com

CORRESPONDENCE TO THE AIRLINE The Chief Executive Officer Air Niugini PO Box 7186, Boroko, NCD, Papua New Guinea Tel +675 327 3458 Fax +675 327 3550

6 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

EDITORIAL CONSULTANT Eva Arni, Air Niugini DESIGN Michael Whitehead, Alicia Freile Editorial inquiries Tel +61 3 9674 7129 paradise@businessadvantageinternational.com Paradise online www.airniuginiparadise.com

Printed in Australia. Both printer and paper manufacturer for this publication are accredited to ISO14001, the internationally recognised standard for environmental management. This publication is printed using vegetable inks and the stock is elemental chlorine free and manufactured using sustainable forestry practices. Some of the articles in this publication are edited versions of those first published on the online PNG business magazine, businessadvantagepng.com. Unsolicited manuscripts, artwork, transparencies and photographs are submitted at the sender’s risk. While all care will be taken, neither the publishers nor the airline will accept responsibility for accidental loss or damage. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. Statements, opinions and points of view expressed by the writers are their own and do not necessarily represent those of the publisher, editor, or the airline. Information contained in this publication may be correct only at the time it was originally obtained by the writers and may be subject to change at any time and without notice. © Copyright. 2015. All rights reserved.

Welcome aboard

his year will be an historic one for Papua New Guinea, with our nation celebrating the 40th anniversary of independence. In recognition of this important milestone, Air Niugini will be releasing a range of special promotional offers in the months leading up to September, including more “Tura” fare seats. This month, we again reduced airfares on both domestic and international sectors as a result of the drop in crude oil prices on the world market. Air Niugini will continue to monitor crude oil prices and pass these savings on to our travelling customers to the greatest extent possible. In an important recent development, Air Niugini, Air Vanuatu and Solomon Airlines have agreed to a tri-partite code-share agreement that will commence by mid 2015. It will provide mutual benefits for the residents and businesses of all three Melanesian countries and will form the basis for further aviation co-operation within the Melanesian Spearhead Group. In the latter part of 2014, passenger numbers have been steady on most of our routes. The Hong Kong route has, over the past 24 months, shown strong growth. Due to this increase in passenger and cargo traffic, a third weekly B767 service will be introduced to Hong Kong in the new schedule, effective in March. All three Hong Kong flights will connect seamlessly in Port Moresby with our flights to and from Honiara and Nadi, in both directions.

8 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

Our focus is to develop Port Moresby as a hub to connect the major markets of Asia with the Pacific region. Hong Kong connections to Asia, North America and Europe are also very convenient as well as becoming an effective hub for the whole of China. The airline will continue in its endeavor to focus on improving customer service in all areas. To this end, the sales team in Port Moresby has been revitalised while the key domestic ports, namely Lae, Mt Hagen and Rabaul, will be provided with more resources. The launch on November 1, 2014, of Link PNG, a subsidiary of Air Niugini, will help ensure that services to the more remote parts of our vast nation are not just preserved, but expanded. An update of some of our domestic and international schedules is set out in the Airline News section on page 11. I trust you are enjoying the new-look Paradise magazine. It is our aim to provide our readers with awareness about some of the places one can travel to, both domestically and internationally. Enjoy your flight with us today and, if you want to learn more about Air Niugini, please visit us at airniugini.com.pg

Sir Frederick Reiher, KCMG, KBE Chairman, Air Niugini Limited

airline news

The latest from Air Niugini

Airline fulfills cultural obligation Cultural ties … landowners and locals who gathered for the exchange of pigs and food; some of the food that was distributed throughout the community.

ir Niugini has fulfilled its cultural obligation to landowners from Kieta, Bougainville, with the exchange of two pigs and food as a token of appreciation for allowing the airline to have one of its aircraft christened Kieta. The cultural ceremony took place at Toborol village in Kieta, and was attended by representatives from six major landowner groups – Barapang, Kurabang, Batuang, Baiang, Mantaa and Bakoringku. Aropa Airport is built on their land. Air Niugini’s general manager for customers and markets, Dominic Kaumu, attended the ceremony and presented the gifts to the landowners. Mr Kaumu said traditional obligations are an important part of PNG society, and Air Niugini, as the national airline, is grateful to be able to fulfill its commitment to the landowners.

10 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

“Air Niugini is supporting the government’s initiative to bring back the airline service to this part of Bougainville after 25 years and we are grateful for the fact that you have allowed us not only to resume services but also name one of our aircraft after your airport, Kieta,” he said.

The ceremony further strengthens the partnership and co-operation between Air Niugini and the local communities.

He added that such a ceremony further strengthens the partnership and cooperation between Air Niugini and the local communities. A spokesperson for the six landowner groups, Gabriel Sala, acknowledged Air Niugini for fulfilling its traditional obligation and assured the airline of the landowners’ support. Air Niugini’s aircraft was christened Kieta following its first flight to Kieta, carrying the Prime Minister, Peter O’Neill, and his delegation to the Aropa Airport opening on December 12. Air Niugini resumed services to the airport after 25 years. The airline operates three weekly flights to Kieta every Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday. The direct Port Moresby/Kieta flight is on Tuesday, while the Thursday flight goes via Rabaul. The flight on Saturday goes from Port Moresby to Rabaul then Kieta, Rabaul and back to Port Moresby. n

airline news

The latest from Air Niugini

Making a splash … children have fun in the water at Rabaul. The National Government has a plan to turn the city into PNG’s tourism hub.

More Hong Kong flights

A Tourism push for Rabaul

he East New Britain Provincial Government is supportive of the National Government’s initiative of making Rabaul the tourism hub of Papua New Guinea. Early this year, the provincial government released PGK1.5million to the PNG Tourism Promotion Authority (PNGTPA) to promote and expand tourism in East New Britain. The funding will be used over three years. The PNGTPA started with a meeting in Kokopo recently where it discussed tourism issues with the industry, including Air Niugini,

hoteliers, tour operators and other local businesses. Project manager, Kayleen Allen from TPA Australia, said that in order to make Rabaul the tourism capital, it is important to train the industry workforce up to the standard at which it can take in international guests. “We need a holistic approach, hard work and commitment from everyone here in East New Britain. We must all work together to make this happen. Over the threeyear period, we will be looking at how customer services are being provided here in East New Britain, the pricing structure in

the hotel industry, tour packages, scheduling, expectations of customers, training, law and order and many other areas. We will be working with everyone to make this happen.” Last May, Air Niugini commited to supporting the government’s initiative when it implemented twice-weekly Q400 direct flights between Rabaul and Cairns. The National Government’s initiative is to make Rabaul the tourism hub of PNG, Lae the industrial centre, Mt Hagen the agricultural capital and Port Moresby the administration centre of the country. n

ir Niugini has added a third weekly B767 flight to Hong Kong to meet increased passenger and cargo demand. Flights will operate on Mondays, Wednesdays and Saturdays from Port Moresby, and on Mondays, Thursdays and Saturdays from Hong Kong. All of the flights connect in Port Moresby, with flights to and from Honiara, Nadi, Cairns and most domestic destinations. Air Niugini has also announced that it will continue five weekly B767 services to Singapore. It will also introduce Fokker 70 jet aircraft on flights between Port Moresby and Cairns, and on some domestic routes, replacing the Dash-8 Q400. Three weekly Kieta flights have been rescheduled to connect with international flights to and from Cairns and Brisbane. n

March – April 2015

airline news

The latest from Air Niugini

Paradise goes online

A Uncorked: WA wines feature on special Air Niugini flights

ir Niugini and Burch Family Wines are joining forces during March and April to offer passengers free wine tastings and gifts. The family-owned Western Australian winery has a reputation for crafting balanced and elegant wines with its brands that include Howard Park, MadFish, Marchand & Burch, Allegory and Jete. The Air Niugini Wine Club is putting on two special wine flights on its Manila PX010 service, on March 27 and on April 24. There will be complimentary wine tasting in the airline’s Executive Club lounge at Port Moresby’s Jacksons International Airport prior to departure and a free gift for business-class passengers. As a special offer to all Air Niugini passengers, Burch Family is also providing a 20 per cent discount off the

range of MadFish wines. To make use of the offer, go to burchfamilywines.com.au and enter the code ‘’Air Niugini” at the checkout. Established in 1986, the winery was one of the original pioneers of the cool-climate Great Southern region that is known for its rich ancient soils and elevated vineyard sites. In addition to the Denmark winery, a second winery was opened in the iconic Margaret River region in 2000. The MadFish story originated from MadFish Bay, a beach in a town in Denmark. Here, when the two tides meet, fish are observed leaping in the air, likened to a state of madness. The fresh, crisp quality of MadFish Bay is reflected in the MadFish range of wines. n On the vine … Burch Family Wines are grown in the coolclimate Great Southern region of Western Australia; a premium white from the MadFish range.

12 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

s well as finding us on board Air Niugini planes, Paradise magazine is now also posted online, at airniuginiparadise.com. See the latest issue, back issues, and find contact details for advertising and how to get in touch with the editor. With its exposure to hundreds of thousands of travellers each year, Paradise is Papua New Guinea’s leading consumer magazine.

It is available in every seat of every Air Niugini international flight, and also on selected domestic services. The first issue of Paradise was published in July 1976, following the founding of Air Niugini itself in 1973, and the year after Papua New Guinea achieved its independence. Early editions are now avidly sought by collectors. n

Airfares reduced

ir Niugini has reduced airfares in response to the drop in crude oil prices on the world

market. The fare reduction came into effect at the start of February, for domestic and international flights. Air Niugini’s chief executive officer, Simon Foo, said domestic travellers will save up

to PGK10 per one-way sector and international passengers travelling to Cairns, Brisbane, Sydney, Honiara, Hong Kong and Nadi will save between $US30 to $US40. He said the airline will continue to monitor crude oil prices and that it will pass on further savings to passengers if the prices continue to drop. n

Departure Lounge News, briefings, local knowledge

PACIFIC BEAUTY

iss Papua New Guinea, Grace Nugi, has finished as the fourth runner-up in the Miss Pacific Islands pageant. The winner was Miss Samoa, Latafale Auva’a, who was crowned at a glittering ceremony in Apia, Samoa, late last year. The 28th annual pageant, re-named for 2014 from Miss South Pacific to Miss Pacific Islands, promotes the attributes, intelligence and talents of young Pacific island women.

Flying high: Miss Papua New Guinea, Grace Nugi, on board with Air Niugini (above); with the other contestants in Samoa (top); and proudly wearing her Miss PNG sash (right).

14 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

Over the years, the pageant has evolved into a platform offering advice and assistance to young women of the Pacific in their advancement as ambassadors of the region. Miss Papua New Guinea is a 24-year-old biology graduate from the University of Papua New Guinea and a research intern with the Wildlife Conservation Society. “I believe that education for women is a vital means of empowerment and key to breaking the cycle of gender-based violence in developing countries, including our own Pacific islands,” she says. “I am also passionate about environmental conservation, including issues such as climate change and its impact on rising sea levels.” Miss Pacific Islands, 20, has a passion for education and says she will put her law/ music degree at New Zealand’s University of Otago on hold during her one-year reign so she can promote educational opportunities in Samoa. Next year’s pageant will be in the Cook Islands. n

departure lounge

NEWS, BRIEFINGS, LOCAL KNOWLEDGE with Robert Upe

Village stay makes hot list

onely Planet has selected a village stay in PNG as one of its 26 “hottest experiences” for 2015. The travel book publisher says: “The ancient tribes of Papua New Guinea have suddenly collided with the 21st century, with the first opportunity to stay with a local PNG tribe gaining a listing on the accommodation marketplace Airbnb.” Lonely Planet’s destination experts note that loosely organised homestay opportunities have been available for several years, but the ability to pre-plan a stay with the Korafe tribe in Tufi is a “game changer”. Also on the list of hot experiences is underwater whale watching in Argentina

on a semi-submersible vessel (pictured) called the Yellow Submarine, cycling New Zealand’s Rimutaka trail, the new 20-storey Hong Kong Observation Wheel and the new National Gallery of Singapore.

The gallery is scheduled to open in October and will be dedicated to Southeast Asian and Singaporean art. The listings appear in a free ebook. See lonelyplanet.com/new-in-travel-2015. n

March – April 2015

departure lounge

NEWS, BRIEFINGS, LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

Fine food, wine by the beach

‘Hamlet’ on the way to Port Moresby

hakespeare is coming to Papua New Guinea in July when London’s Globe Theatre performs Hamlet on a world tour. The two-year tour started on April 23 last year (the 450th anniversary of Shakespeare’s birth). It will visit every country in the world, with the 16 cast members travelling by boat, train, jeep, tall ship, bus and aeroplane across the seven continents. Hamlet had already played in almost 80 countries when Paradise went to press, and in far-flung places from the Arctic Circle to the United Nations in New York and Addis Ababa. The performances are in a variety of venues, from grand palaces to national theatres, beaches and village squares. The role of Hamlet is being shared by Ladi Emeruwa and Naeem Hayat (pictured). Director Dominic Dromgoole says: “In 1608, only five years after it was written, Hamlet was performed on a boat – the Red Dragon – off the coast of Yemen. Just 10 years later it was being toured extensively all over northern Europe. The spirit of touring, and of communicating stories to fresh ears, was always central to Shakespeare’s work. We couldn’t be happier to be extending that mission even further.” Details of the PNG visit have not been finalised, but the performance will be in Port Moresby. Check globetoglobe. shakespearesglobe.com for updates. n

16 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

he Noosa International Food and Wine Festival on Queensland’s Sunshine Coast from May 14-17, will feature more than 250 events, including beach parties, a new Wild Food dinner and appearances by some of the world’s leading chefs. Among the chefs attending are David Thompson (Thailand), Ryan Clift (Singapore), Josh Emett (NZ), Meena Thongkumpola (US) and Andrew Evans (US). Among the beach parties planned, is a 1970’s-themed barbecue and clam bake. There will also be food trails and wine events. For a full program, see noosafoodandwine.com.au. Air Niugini passengers can access the festival via daily flights from Port Moresby to Brisbane. Noosa is 140 kilometres from Brisbane. A regular bus service operates from the airport. See airniugini.com.pg. n

Mick Jagger rocks into PNG

apua New Guinea attracts almost 200,000 visitors a year, but few more noteable than Rolling Stone Mick Jagger, who visited the country on a 10-day tour of Milne Bay and the Western Highlands. The ageing British rocker flew into the country in his private jet after completing an Australian concert tour late last year. Jagger, 71, met villagers and sang with children at Dobu Island, stayed at Rondon Ridge Lodge at Mt Hagen and cruised on the Madang Resort’s MV Kalibobo Spirit. He was reported to have given PNG a “thumbs up” and said that he enjoyed the visit and would return with his children.

New hotel for Kiunga

45-room hotel with restaurant, bar, shop and meeting room is to be constructed at Kiunga in the Western Province. The Cassowary Hotel will be operated by the Coral Sea Hotels chain, which has the largest network of hotels in the country. The hotel is due for completion in the middle of next year and is a project between

Steamships, through its businesses Pacific Palms Property and Coral Seas Hotels, and the Ok Tedi Development Foundation (OTDF). n

departure lounge

NEWS, BRIEFINGS, LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

Excitement builds for Games

he countdown is on to the Pacific Games, which will be staged in Port Moresby from July 4 to 18. Digital billboards around the city show the exact time until the opening ceremony of the 25th Games in which 24 countries will compete. For the first time, Australia and New Zealand will be among the competing nations. A Games’ staff of 60 (pictured) is now working on the event. Games chief executive officer, Peter Stewart, has said that all is on track for the Organising Committee to deliver the event.

“We have accomplished all key milestones to date and have achieved everything we had wanted in 2014. The first six months of 2015 will be even busier and more critical, but we have laid the groundwork and are well placed now to meet the challenge.” The Games’ torch relay is scheduled to start on March 26 and will travel to every province

in the country. It will follow on from the 2014 all-country tour of the mascot, Tura. Tickets and merchandise are scheduled to go on sale well in advance of the July 4 opening ceremony. Air Niugini is a gold sponsor of the Games and the exclusive carrier of the athletes and officials. n

March – April 2015

departure lounge

NEWS, BRIEFINGS, LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

Paradise Q&A: Steven Ferry

At your service … Steve Ferry (above); the Anantara Naladhu resort in the Maldives (top right); Anantara butlers.

The butler with all the right moves The chairman of the International Institute of Butlers provides an insider’s view of the profession. Q: What’s the weirdest request you’ve ever received? A: Sorry, not printable! Q: What about the toughest request, and was it delivered successfully? A: Requiring an elephant to be available in a suite to greet the lady guest upon her arrival—in London! It was provided, although I understand enticing it into the elevator was particularly challenging. Q: If a request is made for something illegal, how do you handle it? A: Without slapping the guest’s wrist, make it clear that one cannot assist and then change the subject, so they are not left with egg on their face.

18 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

Q: Define a butler? A: A butler is a lady or gentleman who takes care of the details and organising the stay of guests and providing additional services that otherwise would not be available in a hotel or resort. The personalised services should all add up to the guests being wowed. Butlers greet guests upon arrival and show them around their suite/villa, offer to unpack their bags, and can make reservations or remind them of that evening’s reservation. They usually provide food and beverages in the suites/villas, arrange parties, breakfast in bed, picnics, coordinate the servicing of the suite when the guests are away, can provide luxury baths, provide a wake-up service, escort guests locally, take them shopping and and even play tennis if they need a partner. Q: Is the profession declining or in demand? A: Very much in demand thanks to burgeoning numbers of multi-millionaires and billionaires around the world, and such influences as the BBC series, Downton Abbey.

Q: You travel the world training butlers, where have you been recently in the Asia/Pacific region? A: In the Maldives, China, Thailand and Singapore. (Ferry was most recently at the Anantara Naladhu resort in the Maldives, which can be reached with an Air Niugini flight to Singapore and then a connection to Male.) Q: What does the training involve and what are the key skills required? A: Some classroom work to inculcate the rationale, mindset and communication skills of the butler; then demonstrating handson skills in the villas/suites and having the trainees practise until they have it. But being a butler is also a lifelong learning experience. Q: Who makes the perfect butler? A: Someone who genuinely cares about others, bringing pleasure into their lives and a smile to their face, and yet who has a tolerant attitude toward less-than-pleasant guests. n See anantara.com, naladhu.com, modernbutlers.com.

departure lounge

NEWS, BRIEFINGS, LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

Five-star Jakarta

ir Niugini passengers flying into Jakarta now have a new luxury hotel option, with the January opening of Fairmont Jakarta. With unrivalled views of the city skyline, the five-star property is in the centre of Senayan Square, a complex in Jakarta’s CBD that combines high-end shopping, entertainment, offices and apartments. The hotel neighbours and provides direct access to Sentral Senayan Office Towers, the 18-hole Senayan National Golf Club, Gelora Bung Karno

sports arena and the Jakarta Convention Centre. Rooms include Japaneseinspired spa bathrooms, in-room technology and plush bedding. The hotel has 25 per cent off rates until April 30, along with a late check out. See fairmont.com. n

ask THE pilot CAPTAIN SAMIU TAUFA, EXECUTIVE MANAGER, FLIGHT OPERATIONS AIR NIUGINI phrased. There are limitations to does wind affect a tailwind landings, depending on Q:How plane’s take-off and landing? the aircraft type and size. Wind direction and strength A:determines the runway Q:What if there are fierce direction used for take-off and crosswinds? landing. It is also used for the There are also crosswind calculation of the take-off weight. A: limitations for different Do aircraft land into, or aircraft types and sizes. If the Q:against, the wind? crosswind limitation for the aircraft is exceeded, the option All take-off and landings to go to an alternate aerodrome A: are generally into the wind, would be considered. or headwind, as it is commonly If you have a question for the pilot, email paradise@businessadvantageinternational.com.

NUMBER CRUNCH That’s the number of birds of paradise species found in Papua New Guinea. It’s thought there are about 50 species in total, living in tropical rainforests around South-East Asia. Naturalist David Attenborough brought the bird, which is the emblem of Air Niugini, to prominence in 1996 when he showed footage of them taken in PNG. More recently, National Geographic documented each of the PNG species in photographs and videos. The crew spent 2006 hours in blinds and brought back 39,568 photos after 544 days on expedition. The brightly coloured plumage of the male is considered to be among the most attractive of any bird in the world.

39 Meet the locals in Sydney

new travel app combines selfguided tours of Sydney Harbour neighbourhoods with options to meet people along the way. Thirst for Sydney features five itineraries with maps, photos, ferry timetables and walking directions for exploring the harbour, while a connect function allows users to announce themselves and send messages to other users of the app – locals and travellers.

20 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

Co-creator and writer of the app, Rob Dunlop, says he wanted to bring together the elements of what makes for great travel – exploring neighbourhoods, indulging in local food and drink, and meeting locals. He describes Thirst for Sydney as a hybrid app with three modes of use. “You can use it as a self-guided travel app to explore independently, as a social app to meet people, or combined to meet people while exploring.”

All five itineraries, which can be taken as day trips, start and finish by ferry at Circular Quay. Places of interest on the itineraries include Manly (pictured), Watsons Bay, McMahons Point and Darling Harbour. See thirstforsydney.com. n

traveller our country, our region, our world

PNG BUCKET LIST

PICTURES: PNG TOURISM PROMOTION AUTHORITY

From diving to trekking to fishing, Roderick Eime delves into the country’s top attractions.

22 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine

traveller

OUR COUNTRY

apua New Guinea is such a multi-faceted country that many outsiders will never grasp the rich complexity of culture, flora and fauna that exists across its vast and rugged landscape. Here is our pick of the top locations and destinations that exemplify the wide range of attractions and activities visitors to PNG can experience.

Touted as one of the best spots for diving anywhere in the south-western Pacific, Tufi’s delightful resort is located on the site of a former World War 2 McHale’s Navy style base for patrol boats. Tufi could easily be included as a cultural experience, as well, thanks to the stunning displays and performances put on by the handsome inhabitants of the satellite villages. But it is the exceptional diving that invariably stays in the memory of those who visit. Right off the jetty are the wrecks of two patrol boats that were destroyed in a refuelling accident in March, 1943. A further 30 minutes by tender is the Pistoff, an amazingly intact B-25 in just 15 metres of water, and right across Collingwood Bay is the famous Black Jack B-17. In an arc, five to 10 nautical miles offshore, is an array of the most glorious reefs, many with hardly any human contact and the most amazing corals. See tufidive.com.

An often-underrated trek, Mt Wilhelm is a beautiful and accessible mountain. Climbing to the 4500-metre summit is a relatively easy ascent in modern mountaineering terms. Escape Trekking Adventures general manager, Shane Goodwin, says the Keglsugl route involves climbing up and through a mountain rainforest, then along an alpine grassland glacial valley to the famous twin lakes of Piunde and Aunde. This takes between three to four hours with four stops on the way. At Piunde (the lower lake) there are two huts, one being an old university monitoring station and the other an A-frame. Though not a technical climb, once past Lake Aunde (the uppermost lake, which feeds Piunde), there are at least four sections where sure footing is essential. In wet weather several sections can be treacherous. The climb to the top is usually undertaken pre-dawn, starting around 1am and trekking out shortly afterwards. Preparation is the key, as weather can turn quickly, creating surprisingly cold conditions. See escapetrekkingadventures.com.au.

March – April 2015

traveller PNG bucket list

The Sepik is synonymous with the distinctive handicrafts and carvings that emanate from the many tribes and clans that dwell along its banks. Intensely symbolic and richly carved, these ornate pieces are highly prized by collectors worldwide and all but dominate the Melanesian art market. Centres like Angoram, Kaminabit and Timbunke are great for art shopping. Commercial expedition adventures along the Sepik, started about 30 years ago, were driven mainly by ethnological dilettantes and enthusiasts of primitive art. Not a great deal has changed except for the quality of watercraft now plying the wide, turbid waters. To visit the region, you can fly in to the Middle Sepik and stay at Karawari Lodge. During the day, set out on a cruise and explore the Kambaramba Lakes and their villages, where mystical rites and rituals persist. See pngtours.com.

24 Paradise â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Air Niuginiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s in-flight magazine

OUR COUNTRY

PNG is not instantly known for tropical island-style resorts, but the Rapopo Plantation Resort on the Gazelle Peninsula of New Britain can make the claim to be one of the most exotic anywhere in the country. The view looks out across wide Simpson Harbour, once the rim of an ancient volcano, all the way to the devastated township of Rabaul. Of course, there are all sorts of activities, like diving and deepsea fishing, but Rapopo is really a place to relax and unwind. The fresh seafood of sweet reef fish, crabs and lobsters, together with succulent fruit and tropical vegetables grown in the rich black volcanic soil, make the dining experience hard to compare. See rapopo.com.

traveller PNG bucket list

Ask anyone about the best places to surf in PNG and the answer is almost always Kavieng. But John Borthwick, long-time surf guru, describes Vanimo, capital of Sandaun Province near the border with Indonesia, as surf that you must earn. “You fly from Port Moresby to Vanimo, take an old taxi eight kilometres out of town to leafy Lido village, weave amid the wooden stilt houses and shade trees, and come at last to an idyllic beach. A wide flat reef and azure lagoon extend seaward, with a right-hand wave peeling for 100 leisurely metres down the west flank, while a more robust-looking left races down the other side.” The northern PNG swell season runs from November to April and with surfing done mostly over coral reefs, this is no place for learners. There are no surf shops either, so bring all your own gear. See surfingpapuanewguinea.org.pg.

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OUR COUNTRY

Festivals in PNG are many and varied. All across the country, every province has an excuse for a festival, but the big daddy of them all is the Mt Hagen Cultural Show, first staged in 1961, prior to PNG’s independence in 1975. The Mt Hagen region was one of the last parts of the country to be discovered by Europeans, with the first encounters taking place in 1930 when Australian gold prospectors, the Leahy brothers, came to the Wahgi Valley. The Australian colonial government introduced the Mt Hagen Show to promote peaceful colourful dance-offs between groups that may have once been rivals. Held annually in August, the show is always a sell-out, so make arrangements early. Expect to see music performances and craft markets along with cultural sing-sings from the entire Western Highlands Province. See pngtours.com.

traveller PNG bucket list

OUR COUNTRY

Almost all of PNG was caught up in the ferocious fighting between Allied Forces and the Japanese between 1942 and 1945. The New Britain capital of Rabaul was one of the first strongholds to fall and quickly became a major Japanese base, housing at its peak, in mid-1943, more than 100,000 Japanese servicemen. Instead of capturing the base, Allied forces bypassed Rabaul, cutting off supplies and constantly bombing ship and troop movements. At war’s end, enormous amounts of Japanese material remained and the harbour was littered with wrecks. Today, tours of the remains are conducted and scuba divers can see what is left of the sunken wrecks. Most notable sites are the museum at Kokopo, the Bita Paka cemetery, the Japanese War Memorial, airfield wrecks, Yamamoto’s bunker and rusting barges, still hidden in caves. See papuanewguinea.travel/EastNewBritain.

Way up the Fly River in PNG’s Western Province is the frontier town of Kiunga, known as one of the most famous locations for birdwatching in the world. Crowned Pigeon, Yellow-eyed Starling, Large Fig-Parrot, Flame Bowerbird and the Twelve-wired Bird-of-paradise are just part of the 300-odd species of feathered specimens found there. So famous, in fact, that Sir David Attenborough chose this location to film portions of his documentary. Local guide, Samuel Kepuknai, guided the great man himself and still leads tours from the Kiunga Guesthouse. See kiunganaturetours.com.

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traveller PNG bucket list

OUR COUNTRY

The Kokoda Track embodies so much of the spirit of PNG that it is often the only thing many people know of the entire country. Kokoda is actually a small village along a mountain track linking the north and south coasts of PNG and was the scene of ferocious fighting in August and September 1942, between Japanese and Australian forces. With no vehicles able to use the steep, muddy track, men had to walk, carry supplies, ammunition and wounded the entire length of the track, fighting the whole time. This event, perhaps Australia’s most significant military action of World War 2, created a heroic mythology the lives to this day. Today, Australians see a trek to Kokoda as a rite of passage, emulating – after a fashion – the hardships and deprivations of their grandfathers. See kokoda.commemoration.gov.au.

The wide, sweeping floodplains in the remote southwestern corner of PNG are home to Bensbach Lodge, a sport fisherman’s paradise and renowned as one of the barramundi capitals of the world, while the rivers also teem with tarpon and saratoga. This is a location made for the serious angler, but equally for anyone who just wants to experience the thrill of catching one of these magnificent fighting fish. Only accessible by charter flight, the lodge offers comfort and amenities despite its isolation and is often used by bird and wildlife enthusiasts who come for the amazing diversity of fauna. Bensbach practices sustainable catch-and-release fishing and keeps only enough for an evening meal. See pngtours.com. March – April 2015

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We found ourselves trapped in a narrow stone-walled gorge and were nearly washed away by raging river floods, following heavy rain. It was a terrifying experience, but luckily we all survived.

THE

BIRDMAN Richard Andrews meets renowned ornithologist Dr Bruce Beehler, a reallife Indiana Jones who has scoured the jungles of PNG in search of rare birds.

irding on the island of New Guinea is like “wandering through the Garden of Eden” according to Dr Bruce Beehler. “But it’s not always heaven.” The renowned author and ornithologist from Washington’s Smithsonian Institute, has visited PNG and West Papua more than 60 times over three decades. Along the way he’s faced floods, raging rivers and other perils to discover and document some of the world’s

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most spectacular and varied avifauna. Beehler says his passion for birding (the term used for serious bird watching) started on a family picnic in Baltimore. “As an eight-year-old, I was transfixed by the beauty of a red-bellied woodpecker calling from a tree. It was an epiphany that became a guiding star for my life.” Following that star led to adventure and exploration far across the Pacific.

“I fell in love with all aspects of life in PNG,” says Beehler. “The back country is fabulous and the rural communities are welcoming and hospitable. The local people are excellent naturalists who can help guide field-research projects.” During a historic expedition in 2005, Beehler led an international team of scientists to a so-called “lost world” in western New Guinea. Guided only by the rough and ready maps, the

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The Birdman … Bruce Beehler armed with binoculars (opposite page); tangled up with a snake in the jungle (this page); an Orange-billed Lorikeet (top left); Huli Wigmen encountered on one of his expeditions (middle left); a Rainbow Lorikeet (bottom left).

expedition discovered more than 100 new species of plant, insect and animal life. A return trip in 2009 with a local group from Kwerba village didn’t go so smoothly. “While following the course of the Kali Ibem River we found ourselves trapped in a narrow stonewalled gorge and were nearly washed away by raging river floods, following heavy rain. It was a terrifying experience, but luckily we all survived. ”

During another expedition across the border, a red towel saved Beehler and his team from starvation in PNG’s Owen Stanley Mountains. Beehler convinced a youth group in the Kokoda Valley to help him blaze a track from the village of Kanga to a high mountain lake, which no living person had visited. He wanted to reach Lake Omha to study the little-known Macgregor’s Honeyeater. March – April 2015

traveller Birdman

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Birds of a feather … (clockwise from top) Feline Owlet Nightjar; Goldenfronted Bowerbird; Blue-capped Ifrita; Ornate Fruit Dove; Raggiana Bird of Paradise.

For seven days, Beehler and six villagers braved cold nights, steep terrain and thick foliage to cut a bush track up the uncharted mountainside. Short of food, they finally broke through into alpine grasslands near the summit, set up a camp and waited for a charter helicopter to arrive with supplies. “Because of heavy clouds, the helicopter had trouble finding us and was about to head back to Port Moresby,” says Beehler. “Just at

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the last moment, the pilot glimpsed a team member waving his towel and delivered our manna from heaven.” Birding and paradise have long traditional associations. Birds often figure in creation stories and are seen as sacred symbols or even messengers of the gods in many mythologies. As a national symbol, the Raggiana Bird of Paradise plays a significant role in PNG culture.

traveller Birdman

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For Beehler, birding is a portal to another world. And one of his favourite places in that world is the lek – the communal assembly during the Raggiana mating season. “It’s like the royal court of Louis XIV in the canopy of one big tree in the forest,” says Beehler. “The male birds are all dressed up in a display of colourful plumage to compete for the females, who check them out. Unlike human society, bird of paradise females are

What to take birding Notebook Lightweight binoculars (preferably roof prism) Field guide:

Birds of New Guinea (second edition 2014) Bruce M. Beehler, Thane K. Pratt (Available online from Princeton University Press)

plain. But like humans they want to mate with the dominant, most attractive male – the Brad Pitt of the species.” Among Beehler’s other favourites is the Victoria Crowned Pigeon. “It’s the world’s largest pigeon and the most beautiful,” he says. “When this bulky bird takes off, it’s as noisy as a 747.” Another large bird that interests Beehler is the New Guinea Vulturine Parrot. “I think it’s the world’s weirdest parrot because it looks like a vulture and has a low, loud growling voice that sounds like a dinosaur retching.” However, Beehler considers his first sighting of the Fire-maned Bowerbird as the “strangest” experience. Largely unknown by Europeans until the late 20th century, the black-and-orange beauty was long considered the rarest bird in PNG. Beehler set out to find the bowerbird in the Adelbert Mountains behind Madang. “I thought it would be an elusive search for the holy grail,” he says. “Instead, I saw one in

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Bruce Beehler’s top 10 PNG birds to see

1 2 3

Raggiana Bird of Paradise: provides a communal mating display.

B lack Sicklebill: solitary display; the largest bird of paradise. K ing of Saxony Bird of Paradise: solitary display; wonderful mobile head-wires.

4 5

V ictoria Crowned Pigeon: the world’s largest pigeon and the most beautiful.

N ew Guinea Vulturine Parrot: world’s weirdest parrot.

6 7 8 9 10

P alm Cockatoo: a giant blackish cockatoo with a stupendous voice

N orthern Cassowary: a giant flightless bird of the rainforest. F ire-maned Bowerbird: the most beautiful bowerbird.

C ommon Paradise-Kingfisher: the most beautiful kingfisher. W attled Brush-turkey: like a chicken, lays its huge eggs in a giant mound of leaves.

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a fig tree as I was walking down a dirt road on the first morning. I realised they’re not the rarest species. You just have to look for their favourite restaurant.” Rare, or not, native species are threatened by human activities in parts of PNG, and Beehler has spent more than 20 years in environmental protection projects. In 2009, he collaborated with Lisa Dabek, of the Woodland Park Zoo

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in the US, to help establish the first national conservation area, an 87,000 hectare reserve in Morobe Province. Beehler says you don’t have to go on an Indiana Jones crusade to go birding in PNG, as magnificent species exist in every corner of the country. However, he advises first timers to start in the easier locations.

“I recommend Varirata National Park, just outside of Port Moresby, especially the display tree of the Raggiana Bird of Paradise. After seeing that, you’ll be hooked.

NEED TO KNOW

When to go Operators run tours mainly during the dry seaso n, from June to October. Independent birding journeys are availa Bruce Beehler’s recommended PNG birdin ble at other times. Victor Emanuel Nature Tours, ventbird.com g tour companies Field Guides Birding Tours, fieldguides.com Rockjumper Tours, rockjumperbirding.com Birdquest Tours, birdquest-tours.com More information www.papuanewguinea.travel/birdwatching

March – April 2015

Stepping out … trekkers make a river crossing on the Kokoda Track.

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KOKODA

PICTURE: PNG TOURISM PROMOTION AUTHORITY

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gear guide As the trekking season approaches, Andrew Bain provides a rundown on the essential items needed on the trail.

efitting its wartime origins, Papua New Guinea’s Kokoda Track is regarded as one of the world’s most challenging treks. For almost 100 kilometres, it journeys relentlessly up and down, ascending and descending more than 5000 metres as it crosses the Owen Stanley Ranges. Along the way there are numerous river crossings, prolific rain and mud, temperatures hovering around 30 degrees Celsius and air so humid you can almost drink it. Suitable clothing and equipment when trekking in this environment is essential for safety and comfort.

Footwear No decision will be more crucial than your choice of boots. Ankle support is vital on the Kokoda’s rough track surfaces, as is good tread on the soles of the boots – look for Vibram soles, preferably with wide spaces between the tread pattern to provide better grip in mud. Boots typically come in two styles. Full-leather boots offer superior waterproofing, but on this trek it’s still almost inevitable that you’ll get wet feet. Leather boots get heavy when wet, so lighter synthetic boots lined with Gore-Tex may be the better option.

Feet are particularly susceptible to blisters in this damp, humid climate. To reduce the chance of blistering, buy a pair of boots that are half a size larger than your foot and tie the laces loosely, especially on climbs. This will allow heat to escape from around your foot. Wearing one pair of thin socks, rather than one or two thick pairs, will also reduce heat and moisture. Quality manufacturers of boots include Scarpa (scarpa.com), Zamberlan (zamberlan.com) and Keen (keenfootwear.com). Gaiters covering your lower leg are also a good option on the Kokoda Track. The type of gaiter

March – April 2015

traveller Kokoda gear

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Backpack Most trekkers employ local porters, who carry the bulk of your gear to camp each day, leaving you to carry only a daypack with the items you might need on the track. Packs are sized by volume capacity, and a 32-litre to 35-litre daypack should be sufficient. Those best suited to the Kokoda Track are packs with an airflow space between your back and the pack’s harness. Deuter (deuter.com) packs have arguably the best airflow system, while Osprey (ospreypacks.com) packs are also good. If you’re not using a porter, you’ll need a backpack with around 75-litre capacity.

will depend on personal choice. Longer gaiters, reaching to just below your knees, will keep out most water and mud from your boots, but will get hot and sweaty. Shorter, builder-style gaiters will keep your legs cooler but are far less effective against water and mud (but will still keep stones from flicking into your boots).

Wet-weather gear On the Kokoda Track you should be thinking less about cold and more about the breathability of your rain jacket – a heavy Gore Tex-style jacket will keep the rain out, but you could end up swimming in sweat instead. A light, throwover rain poncho is ideal for this trek.As well as keeping you mostly dry, it will also cover your pack, offering some waterproofing for the items you’re carrying. It’s paramount that you keep your camping items – spare clothes and sleeping bag – dry, so use a waterproof pack cover or line the inside of your pack with a garbage bag. As further insurance, stuff your sleeping bag into a second garbage bag or a dry bag such as those made by Sea to Summit (seatosummit.com.au). These bags roll down and compress to keep out all water. Do the same with at least one set of camp clothes so you have something dry to change into at the end of each day.

Tent and sleeping bag Look for a lightweight three-season tent with a mesh inner that can be pitched separately to the outer fly cover. On hot, dry nights you’ll then be able to put up just the mesh inner, allowing more airflow. If you’re sleeping in huts, you’ll also be able to use the inner as mosquito protection. There’s a plethora of quality tent manufacturers. Mont’s (mont.com.au) Moondance 1 is a good single-person tent, while Macpac (macpac.co.nz) has a good range of twoperson tents.

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traveller Kokoda gear

Walking poles On the Kokoda Track, you’re either trekking uphill or you’re trekking downhill, so walking poles can be a good investment. Poles are especially useful on descents, when they can absorb some of the impact from your knees as well as help you maintain balance. When walking uphill, they can be used for leverage, shifting some of the effort from your legs to your upper body. Look for telescopic poles, where the height of the poles can be adjusted. Leki (leki.com) and Black Diamond (blackdiamondequipment. com) are regarded as two of the best pole manufacturers.

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Nights can get cold, with the track ascending to more than 2000 metres above sea level, so look for a sleeping bag rated to at least zero degrees. Carry a silk sleeping bag liner to preserve your sleeping bag, but also to use as a sheet on warmer nights when you may not want to get inside the bag.

Hydration Dehydration can be a real issue in this hot, humid climate – it’s not unusual for trekkers to drink six litres of water a day – so you’ll need to pay careful attention to your water intake. The best way to regulate it is to carry a water bladder, such as those made by Camelbak (camelbak.com). This will allow you to take regular sips of water as you walk, rather than having to stop and dig out a bottle each time you want a drink. Many backpacks come with compartments designed to hold water bladders, or you can simply lay the bladder across the top of your pack – be sure that the bladder is sealed properly each time you fill it. It’s a good idea also to carry a separate water bottle that you can fill with an electrolyte drink (such as Gastrolyte or Endura powder) if you’re flagging late in the day, or to assist with rehydration once you arrive in camp.

TIPS FROM THE GUIDES Frank Taylor (Kokoda Treks & Tours, World Expeditions): “A synthetic sleeping bag is best because it dries out more quickly in the damp tropical environment. I’d recommend a sleeping bag liner and a ground sheet also to ensure you stay dry.”

Wayne Fitcher (Getaway Trekking & Adventures): “You must have a pack with a good harness. With a poor harness, you put all the weight on your shoulders – 80 per cent of the weight should be on your hips – which makes you lean forward and crane your neck to look uphill. After a day of that you’ll have a bad headache, and after two days you’ll have a sore back.”

Oliver Fowler (Discover Kokoda): “Avoid heavy mountaineering boots and invest in a good pair of well-fitting lightweight hiking boots with ankle support and an aggressive Vibram sole to deal with the mud and hills. Don’t bring a pair of old boots that have been left in the cupboard for a couple of years – the glue breaks down over time, and you’ll lose the sole of your boot on the first downhill section on the track.”

F A LIFETIME ADVENTURE O Papua New Guinea

PNG Trekking Adventures is Papua New Guinea’s premier tourist operator, based in Port Moresby and operating since 2003. Kokoda Trail Photo Collection

We invite you on an adventure of a lifetime. Email: info@pngtrekkingadventures.com Phone: +675 325 1284 Mobile: +675 7686 6171 Australian Phone: 1300 887 496

Kokoda Trail Mount Wilhelm Milne Bay Trekking/Kayaking Port Moresby Site Seeing Tours Cultural Shows

Worldwide

Torres del Paine, South America Zimbabwe Walking/Kayaking Safari Sandakan Death March, Maylasia Mount Kilimanjaro, Africa

visit: www.pngtrekkingadventures.com

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44 Paradise â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Air Niuginiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s in-flight magazine

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MAR

K SEA

Madang Mt Wilhelm

NEW BRITAIN

Astrolabe Bay

png

Km 250

Port Moresby

Exotic MADANG John Wright journeys to the tropical town where scuba diving, World War 2 history and freshly caught fish wrapped in banana leaves are on the menu.

PICTURE: CHRISTIAN MILLER

t times, when towering cloudbanks catch the first hint of daybreak out at sea or when the moon makes a shadow play of banana boats heading home across Dallman Passage, Madang can seem like the most exotic place on earth. It seemed like that to me on a recent visit. I was waiting for the monsoon, or at least a sign that the clouds would fulfil their promise of a deluge that would shatter the baking heat of this lovely tropical town. Even in the wilting heat of a dry summer’s day, Madang, an hour’s flight from Port Moresby on PNG’s northern coast, has an ambience that is beguiling, and a natural beauty that softens the town’s often drab and untidy appearance and the challenges of its chronically pot-holed roads. In the rain, especially in the rain, it draws firsttime visitors in gently and awakens something in the heart. Some travellers call Madang the prettiest town in PNG. This may be true; a bit over 20

years ago, before the volcanic eruption that destroyed Rabaul, it would not have been. But even if Madang’s beauty seems a little tarnished these days to one who has known and loved it over the years, its appeal is undiminished. Quite simply, it is a wonderful travel destination, whether you’re looking for a short escape from Port Moresby, Lae or Mt Hagen, or you’re a foreign traveller on a mission to discover something of what makes PNG the incredible country that it is. And most of the time, that “something’’ is the people. Fishing, scuba diving, snorkelling, hiking, mountain climbing and World War 2 history are all part of the tourism mix in Madang and its province. But if you want to meet the people – and that is what they themselves want – the best way is to get out of town and into the bush. According to the Madang Visitors and Cultural Bureau, interaction with locals is what international visitors want more than anything, and there has been a growing interest in

March – April 2015

PICTURES: PNG TOURISM PROMOTION AUTHORITY

traveller Exotic Madang

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In the rain, especially in the rain, it draws first-time visitors in gently and awakens something in the heart.

Aerial reconnaissance … Madang is an hour’s flight from Port Moresby on PNG’s northern coast; a sing-sing to welcome visitors; clan leader, Assel Tui; and (previous page) children splashing about in the waters of Madang.

village visits and overnight stays across the province. The bureau is a good place to start if you want to make it happen. It hooked me up with Joel Laleg, chief of Hobe Village, about 17 kilometres inland from Madang. In conjunction with nearby Haiya Village, Hobe stages occasional village visits and sing-sings for tourist groups who want to see culture in action and the chance of spotting a bird of paradise. The village-stay part of the equation is a work in progress, though. Laleg has worked for years to establish a superb tropical garden; now he’s building a two-bedroom tourist lodge. Stay there right now and you will bathe in a creek and never forget it. Laleg’s dream includes running water

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and enough power to install a small refrigerator and fans. He will get there soon if those in charge of tourism in Madang Province offer him the support he deserves. Will that happen? If it does, in Laleg’s village and others, it could help revitalise a local tourism industry that (the cruise ship sector apart) has been stagnating. “In Madang, we have an abundance of hotel rooms with more under way,” says Sir Peter Barter, whose company Melanesian Tourist Services owns and operates the impressive Madang Resort. “The National Government says it is keen to develop tourism (and) they have allocated more

than enough money to make it happen, but it is not happening.” Barter thinks encouraging more inbound flights could be the answer, as well as a betterresourced visitor bureau. The bureau is not expecting a monsoon-type deluge of funding anytime soon. It, too, is waiting, as was the town when I was there, its main tourist attraction and focal point (its market) closed indefinitely for a proposed redevelopment. An hour’s motorboat ride from Madang on the far shores of Astrolabe Bay, another clan leader, Assel Tui, of Gorendu Village, is also waiting, planning and dreaming.

traveller Exotic Madang

It was at Gorendu that a Russian scientist, Nicolai Miklouho-Maclay, stepped ashore in 1871 and became the first European to live among the people of New Guinea’s north coast. Tui already has a monument to Miklouho-Maclay erected by the Melanesian Foundation and a fascinating oral history he likes to share with day visitors. A planned lodge is the next step in a tourism venture that would further enhance Madang’s appeal to visitors. Nevertheless, Madang has long been a bright jewel in PNG’s tourism and there has been strong interest in village tours. Bilbil is the pick of the regular organised village tours close to Madang. Here, you will see village women making, firing and selling the traditional pots for which Bilbil is celebrated.

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Balek Wildlife Reserve is another recommended short tour. There is a curious sulphur creek with blind turtles in it, and some butterflies. Madang was briefly the headquarters of Lieutenant-General Hatazo Adachi of the Japanese 18th Army, and it was bombed flat by the Allies before they captured it in 1944. The impressive Coastwatchers Memorial (ignore the graffiti … it’s still a beautiful monument) at Kalibobo Point, close to town, is a must-see, especially if you know the vital role they played in World War 2. The Coastwatchers were a brave group of Australians and others who were dropped into the jungle with radios, in PNG, the Solomon Islands and elsewhere in the region during

March – April 2015

traveller Exotic Madang

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T he Madang Resort and adjoining Kalibobo Village, has an incomparable location fronting Dallman Passage and Yamilon Lagoon close to town, and a long history of providing first-class accommodation. Set in beautifully landscaped gardens with a wide range of air-conditioned rooms and suites as well as swimming pools and lagoons, restaurants, satellite TV, Wi-Fi, a new gymnasium, a dive shop, tours, cruises and conference facilities. See madangresort.com. adang Lodge is an immaculately kept M property on the shores of Astrolabe Bay, a short drive or PMV hop from the town centre. A fibre-optic Wi-Fi connection and spotless budget rooms for PGK205 a couple (the cheapest in Madang, the lodge claims), makes it popular with domestic visitors and budget-minded travellers as does its range of other smart and more expensive rooms and apartments, seafront location, gym, massage room, freshwater pool, restaurant, coffee shop and tropical ambience. See madanglodge.com.pg. T he Madang Star International Hotel is a well-kept three-star establishment with air-conditioned rooms, ceiling fans and cable television. There’s an outdoor pool and babrecues in a garden setting. Cnr Regina & Bauhinia Ave, Madang. adang has an impressive number of M guesthouses and lodges, most of them offering low-budget accommodation. The Madang Visitors & Cultural Bureau has a full list. The popular CWA Guesthouse, near the Madang Club, has very basic twin-share rooms with kitchen access for PGK160, with profits going into community programs. Phone: 422 2216; email, madang.cwa@global.net.pg.

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Jungle wreck … a World War 2 plane near Madang; the Coastwatchers Memorial.

The resort also has a fully stocked PADI dive World War 2 to give notice to the Allies of shop that offers open-water courses and dive Japanese aircraft and ship movements. trips to a number of easily accessible sites. They were hunted by the Japanese and There are plenty of hard and soft corals to often found and executed, and they were a see, wrecks (including a Mitchell bomber), major reason the Japanese lost the Pacific barracuda and other pelagic fish. Visibility campaign. often exceeds There are tours, which include most of the important sites, including the wreckage of a 40 metres. World War 2 Betty bomber. Air Niugini flies daily from Port There is also an old mission station site Moresby to Madang. (1896) at St Michael’s Primary School near See airniugini.com.pg. Alexishaven Harbour, where there are a few relics, sunken Japanese barges and a cemetery and memorial to those missionaries who were killed by the Japanese. Fishing is another major drawcard. You NEED TO KNOW can easily organise EATING THERE Madang’s major hotels and resorts have good a fishing trip, either food and drink options, or try the quasi-colon ial Madang Club, where you can order Chinese food through with a local in a a hatch from the adjacent Ocean Restaurant. Krangket Fish Marke t has freshly caught dugout canoe or fish wrapped in banana leaves. Or, try fried fast food in a kaiba (food banana boat, or with bar). As a tourism brochure says: “Compete with the locals to get to the front counter. There is no line, strugg charters organised les may be necessary.’’ MORE INFORMATION Madang Visitors through the visitor and Cultural Bureau, email: info@tourismmadang.com; phone 422 3302. bureau or Madang Resort.

PICTURES: PNG TOURISM PROMOTION AUTHORITY

WHERE TO STAY

PICTURE: JOHN BORTHWICK

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A RIVER JOURNEY underground Going underground … Puerto Princesa Subterranean River is one of the “New Seven Wonders of Nature”..

John Borthwick soaks in tropical waters and tastes delicious seafood before venturing into Palawan’s famed subterranean river.

alawan stretches its long, elegant finger some 650 kilometres southwest down the South China Sea — or the West Philippine Sea, depending on whose map you’re reading. With over 1770 islands, the archipelago is the largest province in the Philippines, and yet it flies under most publicity radars. “We killed our first tourist,” Filipinos sometimes joke uneasily, referring to pioneer Portuguese navigator Ferdinand Magellan, who was slain in battle near Cebu in 1521. The remnants of his fleet retreated south to Palawan, where they found supplies in such quantity that the voyage chronicler, Antonio Pigafetta named it “the Land of Promise”. The province’s namesake and largest island, Palawan, sits to the south of a long stream of smaller islets. Some 450 kilometres long and just 50 kilometres wide, it is home to the modest capital, Puerto Princesa, facing the Sulu Sea. We start our trip here with a day of tropical island hopping on its broad Honda Bay, snorkelling on palm-sheltered Pandan Island and then picnicking mightily at Cowrie Island on oysters, grilled mantis shrimp and grouper.

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Back onshore, that night we head to the Iwahig River where we hop into canoes to paddle — well, to be paddled by boatmen — up the silent river. It’s a moonless night, but vivid with fireflies that flare by the thousands along the mangrove shoreline. Their fleeting, glittering bioluminescent finds a visual echo in the star-strewn sky above. As we glide between these constellations it might be a time for wordless contemplation but our guide’s recitation of firefly factoids is unrelenting. About a kilometre up the river, we turn about when he explains that, “Past here is a prison and we can’t go too close.” The downstream drift is as a magical as the upstream journey. Puerto Princesa’s unique Iwahig Penal Farm that we almost paddled into is a sprawling, rehabilitation jail where model prisoners tend crops and fishponds, and live with their families. They’re free to do almost anything but walk out the front gate. Meanwhile, visitors are welcome to walk in. So next day I do just that. This penitentiary-in-the-forest has gardens, a village, church and scattered accommodation. There’s even a gift store where the prisoners sell souvenirs they’ve made.

traveller A river journey underground

I buy a toy, a distinctly non-Filipino reindeer, carved by a polite young man who tells me he’s doing a long stretch for robbing a store. “Why so many years?” I ask. As though adding an overlooked footnote to the event, he admits, “Unfortunately, there was also a homicide part of the robbery.” The Land of Promise is of course big on seafood. We dine very well at Puerto Princesa’s Kalui restaurant where the promise is delivered deliciously – kinilaw marinated raw fish, sinigang sour fish soup and grilled lapu-lapu fish with

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BEST ISLAND IN THE WORLD Conde Nast magazine last year named Palawan as No.1 on its reader-voted list of the top 30 islands, citing the underground river as a major reason for its popularity.

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calamansi lemon sauce. Add a few local cocktails atop all that, plus our busy day, and sleep comes easily. Palawan Island’s most popular attraction is its spectacular St Paul Underground River – also known as Puerto Princesa Subterranean River – that runs through a deep limestone cavern for eight kilometres before flowing into the South China – or West Philippine – Sea.

traveller A river journey underground

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Manila Palawan bliss ... whether you’re in a boat, underground or snorkelling, it’s all about the pristine water.

p hil

500 Km

Cebu

Sabang Puerto Princesa

Palawan

Honda Bay

To reach it the next day we drive 80 kilometres north to Sabang on the edge of World Heritage-listed St Paul National Park and then take a short trip aboard a motorised banca boat along the park’s dense jungle shore. At the mouth of the river cave, park guides direct us to an outrigger canoe that’s equipped with a powerful spotlight. A boatman, sitting astern, paddles us through a gap in the limestone karst wall and soon we are gliding into the stygian darkness of one of the longest underground rivers in the world. (This was thought to be the longest

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lip

Km 250

until another was discovered in 2007 in Mexico’s Yucatán Peninsula.) The spotlight soon picks out surreal, calcite blooms and frozen marble cascades that burst from the ceiling. Tiny bats swirl past, or sleep, shrouded in their wings, to the walls. Stalactites drip their millennial extensions towards stone molars and eye-tooth stalagmites. Swiftlets skitter by, charging the air with their rapid clicking sounds until it seems we are in a cave filled with Geiger counters. The river is navigable for some four kilometres inland, although we travel only about one-third of that. Our boatman points out

traveller A river journey underground the giant flowstones of yellow marble that festoon the cave roof and walls. We drift on through this empire of shadows and shapes, and eventually, 45 minutes later, back into daylight. Beyond the words and interpretative fantasies, Palawan’s cave of dreams remains a wonder and, fittingly, is now listed as one of our planet’s New Seven Wonders of Nature.

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ir Niugini flies from Port Moresby A to Manila or Cebu six days a week. Passengers can journey onward to Palawan with low-cost local flights that take about 65 minutes. See airniugini.com.pg.

NEED TO KNOW STAYING THERE For Puerto Princesa: One Manalo Place Hotel, onemanaloplace.com; For Subterranean River: Sheridan Beach Resort & Spa, sheridanbeachresort.com TOURING THERE River tours cost PGK88 per person, including transfers from Puerto Princesa. The Iwahig Firefly Watching tour is PGK65 per person, including dinner. See puertoprincesaholidaytours.com. MORE INFORMATION itsmorefuninthephilippines.com/puerto-princesa

Time out ... warm sand between your toes and the warm sun on your back at Palawan.

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traveller

FIJI Country guide:

Whether it’s diving with sharks or relaxing in azure waters, Mary O’Brien says Fiji is the ideal destination.

PICTURE: sam cahir

azzling beaches, warm water, pristine diving – Fiji promises an escape from the humdrum of everyday life. Whether it’s a relaxing holiday, a dream wedding or a beach-bum adventure, this remote Pacific spot scores high on the getaway index. With about 330 islands, there is almost somewhere new to discover every day of the year. Viti Levu, often called the mainland, is the largest island and the main airport is near Nadi in the west; Suva, in the southeast, is the capital. Tourists first discovered the Coral Coast in the south, which has good beaches and scores of international resorts. Denarau Island (fiji.travel/ destinations/denarau-island), reached by bridge, comprises several five-star resorts, a marina and golf course – all within 30 minutes drive of the airport.

In with the sharks ... feeding time in Beqa Lagoon; Lomani Island (top right); barefoot on Drawaqa beach (right).

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ISLANDS There’s a saying that you haven’t been to Fiji until you’ve visited the islands. The Yasawa group, where the 1980 Brooke Shields film Blue Lagoon was shot, comprises 20 volcanic islands – think green mountains, postcard beaches, pristine waters and a range of resorts. Less commercialised, the 20 Mamanucas are sand-fringed dots dropped into the Pacific. To the north, the sizeable Vanua Levu is less explored, though Savusavu is a popular centre for diving. Also known as the garden island, Taveuni boasts dense forests, historical sites and nature and marine reserves.

Fiji POPULATION: 0

CURRENCY:

500 Km

Vanua Levu Yasawa Islands

FIJI

Mamanuca Islands Nadi

Suva 0

Fijian dollar; 1 = PGK1.30

TAXI FARE FROM AIRPORT: To Denarau Island about FJD$30-$35; Sigatoka about FJD$110-115 INTERNATIONAL DIALLING CODE: +679

Viti Levu Denarau Island

837,000

Km 100

LANGUAGE:

English is the official language; Fijian and Hindustani are also spoken.

POWER:

Three-pin Australian/ New Zealand-style plug; 240 volts.

GETTING AROUND Local buses are cheap and a great way to experience the countryside. Opt for air-conditioned express buses for travel from Nadi to Suva. Renting a car is easy and driving conditions (on the left) pretty good on main routes. If you’re exploring the bigger islands you can catch the regular ferry services between them. Or for island hopping, a bula pass on the Yasawa Flyer is extremely handy. Passes last from five to 21 days and the boat calls to 12 islands in the Yasawas and Mamanucas (awesomefiji.com).

March – April 2015

traveller Country guide: Fiji

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SIGHTS

FIJI SPECIAL

One of the most exciting ways to see Fiji’s spectacular islands, reefs and sea is from the air. Operators such as Island Hoppers (islandhoppersfiji.com) organise day trips, scenic flights and transfers between islands. The flight from Nadi to Savusavu swoops over the large mountainous and sparsely populated Viti Levu, passing tiny islands and reefs, to reach the lush green of Vanua Levu. You can also “tagalong”, where you pay to hitch a ride as the plane drops passengers on various islands.

Off-Road Cave Safari is a great way to explore the interior of Viti Levu (offroadfiji.com). From its Sigatoka River base, an all-terrain vehicle is taken to the other river bank on a barge. Driving through the remote Sigatoka Valley, Fiji’s food bowl, villagers still ride on horses to market and school. The vehicle travels through tiny villages to the remote settlement near the Naihehe Caves. After a traditional kava ceremony the chief and priest are asked for permission to enter the caves.

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First, there’s a low passage, known as the “pregnancy gap”, to squeeze through. Next, is a bigger cave where the local tribe fought off invaders from a high ledge. The cannibal “oven”, where captured enemies were boiled, remains a chilling sight.

traveller Country guide: Fiji

CULTURE VULTURE It’s easy to fall in love with Fiji on the big screen. Blue Lagoon was filmed on the stunning Nanuya Levu in the Yasawas. Now called Turtle Island (turtlefiji.com), it’s owned by US businessman Richard Evanson, who made the barren uninhabited island his home in 1972. When the movie was finished, he opened the island to guests and it now has 14 villas. Evanson has planted more than half a million trees, a

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hydroponic organic vegetable garden and organises medical clinics for villagers. Return to the Blue Lagoon (with Milla Jovavich) was filmed in Taveuni. Castaway, starring Tom Hanks, was shot on Monu-riki in the Mamanucas.

CHILD’S PLAY For the frazzled parent, Fiji offers the chance of respite. The locals love children and many resorts offer childcare facilities, special pools and play areas. A pioneer in family friendly holidays, the Jean-Michel Cousteau Resort (fijiresort.com) in Savusavu offers a one-on-one nanny service for children. As well a children’s pool, play area and sprawling tree house, kids learn about Fijian culture and conservation. Other resorts offer similar programs and – if you don’t have kids – be warned that places can be noisy during school holidays.

PILLOW TALK If you’re on a tight budget, the Bedarra Beach Inn (bedarrafiji.com) on the Coral Coast or First Landing (firstlandingresort.com) in Lautoka are a good bet. Five-star stays that are handily located include the Sofitel and Sheraton on Denarau Island. Further down the coast try the Intercontinental or the Outrigger. For a romantic island escape, Likuliku Lagoon Resort (likulikulagoon. com) with its over-water bures, or Yasawa Island resort’s (yasawa.com) 18 bures in the jungle are special.

DIVING Divers head to Fiji (the “Soft Coral Capital of the World”) for its amazing marine biodiversity. Add in balmy waters, great visibility, 10,000 square kilometres of coral, 1000 fish species and it all makes for an underwater paradise. One of the best diving spots is at Namena on Vanua Levu. Other not-to-be-missed experiences include diving with sharks in Beqa Lagoon (fijisharkdive.com), swimming with manta rays at (not surprisingly) Manta Ray Island, or night diving and snorkelling.

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Destination Papua New Guinea

showcase

March â&#x20AC;&#x201C; April 2015

traveller Country guide: Fiji

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TUCK IN Kokoda, the unofficial national dish, is on almost every menu. Pronounced koh-konda, this coconut fish salad or ceviche is basically a raw fish salad where the fish is “cooked” by marinating it in citrus juice. After a minimum of two hours marinating, the cubed white flesh (often Spanish mackerel) turns white. Then it’s rinsed and combined with a coconut mixture of tomato, spring onion, chilli and lemon juice. On a balmy night, it’s a refreshing dish.

EAT AND DRINK Food offerings have improved a lot in recent years. In Denarau, resorts such as the Sheraton’s Ports O’ Call and Sofitel’s V restaurant have upped the ante. In Nadi, locals and expats like to hang out at the popular Curry House while Ed’s Bar and Vibe (a cocktail bar and restaurant) are great for a drink. For international-style organic food, Jean-Michel Cousteau Resort is hard to beat while local celebrity chef Lance Seeto is winning fans at

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Castaway Island’s Restaurant 1808. A popular lunch outing is First Landing followed by a mud bath at Sabeto.

GIVING BACK Why not volunteer for a day or two during your holiday? On the beautiful Yasawa islands, Vinaka Fiji works with 27 remote communities. For example, you could relax at the rustic Barefoot Island Resort before helping with reading recovery in a school or with building a sustainability project.

The Vinaka Fiji Yasawa Trust Foundation was set up in 2010 to help locals who struggle with water shortages, lack of education and health services (vinakafiji.com.fj). ir Niugini flies daily from A Port Moresby to Nadi every Tuesday, Friday and Sunday. See airniugini.com.pg.

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A grand entrance … the Fullerton Bay Hotel’s main lobby and arrival area.

Singapore bling Sally Hammond checks in at the Fullerton Bay Hotel, a heritage property at Marina Bay, Singapore’s premier piece of waterfront.

cotsman Robert Fullerton was a man who prided himself on his foresight. New late 18th-century colonies needed leadership and he saw his niche, eventually becoming the first Governor of the Straits Settlements, and establishing municipal order throughout the Malay Peninsula. Fullerton did not foresee, though, that he would die just one year after a naval fort, named in his honour, was built on the Singapore foreshore in 1829. He could never have dreamed, either, that the name Fullerton would ultimately be attached to many of the modern city’s most prestigious and beautiful buildings. Possibly most guests of the Fullerton Bay Hotel, opened in 2010, are blissfully unaware of all this. They are too awed by the discreet entrance, the polished welcome and swift service as bags are wafted from limo transfer to

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one of the hotel’s 100 rooms or suites. Inside, marble floors reflect old and new. On the left is the revitalised 1930’s Clifford Pier, but we turn right to check in, inhaling the hotel’s bespoke fragrance. And then, our room. It’s pinch-yourself time as we glimpse a coffee-maker, the bathtub TV, but are drawn to the balcony – over water on the edge of Marina Bay, home to the city’s showpony tourist attractions: the Singapore Flyer, Botanical Gardens, the weirdly wiry Supertrees, and of course the unusually shaped Marina Bay Sands. After dinner, we return to enjoy the piercing beams of MBS’s laser show, strobing the tropical sky, reflecting in the bay. To view the Fullerton collection, it is best to take a complimentary guided heritage tour and see for yourself: The Fullerton Hotel opened in 2001 on the site of the former fort; the

traveller Singapore bling

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Modern meets colonial ... a premier bay room with views to the Marina Bay Sands resort (above left); the Clifford alfresco area (above right); The Fullerton Bay Hotel’s main entrance.

reinvented Fullerton Waterboat House, One Fullerton, Customs House, The Fullerton Bay Hotel and Clifford Pier, complete the collection. In real estate terms it is a priceless coronet of properties on Singapore’s premier piece of waterfront. The hotel already has a chic brasserie, the Clifford, with its 10-metre high windows, but we were itching to experience Clifford Pier, which opened last May. I’ll spare you the superlatives. Once you see the colonial setting with its lofty white ceiling and curved trusses reflected in the marble floor, creating an illusion of a huge magical tunnel that finishes at the bay, you’ll supply your own. Our tasting menu, served on handmade pottery plates, trickles out a seemingly endless stream of chic versions of Singaporean

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Yes, that sums up this place. It’s the thinking hawker dishes. Kueh pie tee, crispy thimbleperson’s hotel; created by minds that have shaped filled pastries, mutton soup spiced for explored and provided every possible comfort; local palates, rendang and, best of all, “two for those who know what they desire in a hotel. generations of rickshaw noodles” – Hokkien Surely somewhere, Governor Fullerton, noodles in a pork broth and paired with the original instigator of detail and order in succulent pork belly and soft-boiled egg. Singapore, is nodding his approval. Tradition meets 21st century here, so there’s also an upmarket combo of glass noodles with Air Niugini flies from Port Moresby sea urchin, salted eggs and salmon roe bathed to Singapore five days a week. in a lime truffle sauce and, more familiar, lobster See airniugini.com.pg. in a toasted roll served with a paper cone of chips and tomato sauce. Dessert? What else but a take on the street-side NEED TO KNOW favourite – green STAYING THERE pandan ice cream Expect lots of polished rosewood, latticed screens, leather served in marbled and chrome in elegant accommodation rangi ng from deluxe bread? rooms with balconies to the sprawling presi dential suite. As we checkout, we ALSO Rooftop pool, gym, four dining/drinking options includsee him beside the ing The Clifford Pier opened last year. hotel. Not Fullerton, MORE INFORMATION fullertonbayhotel.c om but a reproduction of Rodin’s statue, The Thinker.

traveller

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Three of a kind … taxis

SINGAPORE

TOKYO

PORT MORESBY

Some 26,000 taxis from six companies (and many independent drivers) trundle through Singapore in various makes and colours. They’re cheap, air-conditioned, clean and driven by courteous English-speaking drivers.

Tokyo’s 50,000 taxis from multiple companies have immaculate interiors and come in numerous brands and colours, though all have green number plates. White-gloved drivers are polite but rarely speak English; have your destinations written in Japanese.

There are several taxi companies in Port Moresby, of which Comfort and Scarlet Taxis are two of the more reputable. If you’re planning a lot of travel over a few days, hiring a car with a driver from Hertz or Avis may be more efficient and cost-effective.

BY THE METER Meters are nearly always used. Flagfall is ¥710, phone bookings ¥400. Thereafter, ¥8090 every 300 metres and ¥80 for every twominute wait. Surcharges at night. No tipping.

BY THE METER Taxi charges are set and monitored by PNG’s Independent Consumer and Competition Commission, but not all taxis have meters as they ought, so you may need to agree a fee for your journey with the driver. The official ICCC rates are PGK1.70 flagfall, PGK2.20 per kilometre, with a waiting charge of PGK0.10 per 30 seconds.

BY THE METER Meters are always used. Flagfall is $S3-5, phone bookings $S2.50-5. Thereafter, $S0.20 per 400 metres or 45-second wait. There are surcharges at night, during peak hours, for expressways and credit-card use. No tipping; round up the fare. WATCH OUT Seatbelts must be worn. It’s impossible to hail a taxi on a rainy day. Don’t worry about a warning beep; it indicates drivers have edged over the speed limit, and they’ll quickly slow down. AT THE AIRPORT There are taxi stands at the arrivals level of every terminal. AIRPORT TO CITY FARES Expect to pay $S18-38, depending on the time of day. A $S3-5 airport surcharge applies. HOW TO HAIL Hail in the street anywhere but the CBD, where you’ll find taxi stands outside hotels, malls and public buildings. Avoid shift changes (4-5pm and 10-11pm).

WATCH OUT Seatbelts must be worn. Stand back from the door, which opens and closes automatically. Not all cabs accept credit cards. AT THE AIRPORT It’s easy to find a taxi at ranks outside terminals, but the train is much cheaper and faster. AIRPORT TO CITY FARES Expect to pay a whopping ¥20,000 for the 90-minute journey. Flat rates are sometimes offered. HOW TO HAIL Hail in the street, or head to taxi ranks outside hotels and train stations. Avoid peak hour. A red front-window light means the taxi is free; a green light, occupied.

CONTACT SMRT. Phone 6555 8888, smrttaxis.com.sg.

CONTACT Nihon Kotsu has English-speaking operators. Phone 5755 2336, nihon-kotsu.co.jp.

– BJ

WATCH OUT While some cabs have mobile EFTPOS, most accept cash only, and may have limited change. Avoid informal and illegal cabs. AT THE AIRPORT Taxis are available at the airport, but most of Port Moresby’s hotels offer airport transfers. AIRPORT TO CITY FARES The tariff for a trip to town might be around PGK30-40, depending on traffic. HOW TO HAIL Where possible, you are strongly advised to ask your hotel to book a taxi for you. If necessary, ask your concierge to confirm the destination and route with the driver prior to departure. CONTACT Comfort 325 3046, Scarlet Taxi 7220 7000 – AW

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TIME TRAVELLER

time traveller Chips Rafferty, 1956 Flaming Color! Fiery Fury! Burning Passion! A Savage Story Filmed In The Wilds of New Guinea! This was the billing for the 1956 movie Walk into Paradise, which was filmed in Papua New Guinea and starred Australian he-man Chips Rafferty. Raffery also co-produced and co-wrote the movie , the first bilingual, colour film made in Australia – the dialogue being in English or Melanesian pidgin Rafferty (in canoe) was the Hugh Jackman of the 1950s. His links to PNG started as an RAAF flying officer stationed at airstrips in Milne Bay. Walk into Paradise glamourised the role of the Australian administration in PNG. When the film was released in the US, it was re-titled Walk into Hell – a marketing gimmick for American audiences. Many of the characters, such as villagers and members of the PNG constabulary, played themselves. The principal PNG role, Towalaka, was played by Regimental Sergeant Major Somu. A CD of the film is available from the Papua New Guinea Association of Australia. See pngaa.net. — JOHN BROOKSBANK

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If you have a photo that may be suitable for Time Traveller, email paradise@businessadvantageinternational.com.

Living lifestyle, culture, sport, entertainment

COLLECTORS THE

American philanthropists are responsible for two outstanding collections of New Guinea art housed in museums in the US. Susan Gough Henly reports.

ormidable face masks, six-metre-tall carved funerary poles, ancestor skulls with ornate feather headdresses, spirit canoes, carved bone daggers, crocodile totems, striking spirit boards and much, much more. The range and exquisite quality of this art from New Guinea is breathtaking and forms the basis of two remarkable collections in the US.

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The New Guinea Collection at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York and the Jolika Collection at the de Young Museum in San Francisco offer what many believe to be the best survey of New Guinea art anywhere in the world. The collections are proof of the passion of American philanthropists Nelson Rockefeller, and John and Marcia Friede.

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Rockefeller, the scion of one of America’s most powerful philanthropic families, four-time governor of the State of New York and vice president under Gerald Ford, was an ardent collector of indigenous art from South America, Oceania and Africa. He created the museum of Primitive Art in 1954 on West 54th street just down the road from the Museum of Modern Art, which was founded by a group of prominent New Yorkers, including his mother.

After Rockefeller’s collection was given to the Metropolitan Museum, he essentially stopped collecting, while the Friedes continue to collect to this day with four decades of unwavering connoisseurship. They gifted about 400 works to the de Young Museum in San Francisco in 2005. Fascinated by New Guinea’s diversity of cultures, languages and artistic styles in close geographic proximity to each other, the Friedes also love the colour and dynamism

Over the course of 20 years, Rockefeller amassed one of the most important collections of indigenous art ever assembled, guided by his abiding desire to show the aesthetic excellence of what had been neglected by the major museums in the US. The entire collection of 3500 works was transferred to the Metropolitan Museum of Art in 1974, a great testament to Rockefeller’s vision of establishing indigenous cultural icons as examples of fine art, not just ethnographic curiosities. John and Marcia Friede started collecting New Guinea art in 1965, amassing more than 4000 works, probably the largest collection of New Guinea art in private hands anywhere in the world. (John Friede is the nephew of publisher and philanthropist Walter Annenberg, who donated US$2 billion to educational establishments and art galleries in the US.)

of the carvings, which reflect the fecundity of the tropical vegetation. The quality and richness of their collection, with its emphasis on art rather than anthropology, highlights just how remarkable New Guinea art is. The New Guinea collection at the Metropolitan Museum of Art is part of the Department of the Arts of Africa, Oceania, and the Americas, which is located in the airy, light-filled 4000 square-metre Michael C. Rockefeller Wing. The Met’s New Guinea collection is particularly strong in wooden sculpture, especially from the Asmat people in the south west and the Sepik River region in the north east. Highlights include the imposing Asmat funerary poles and a soaring ceremonial house ceiling from the Kwoma people. One reason the Asmat art collection is so strong is that Nelson Rockefeller’s son, Michael Rockefeller, took two trips to the Asmat region in 1961 where he studied and

New Guinea art ... Amsat ancestor figures (opposite page); a 19th-century Elema mask (this page left); a Eharo mask (centre); and a ritual board. All at the Metroplitan Museum of Art, except the Elema mask which is housed at the de Young Museum.

March – April 2015

living The collectors

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collected the art. Sadly, he disappeared on his second trip, with some speculation that he was killed by head-hunters. Many of his discoveries are now on show in the Michael Rockefeller wing including the funerary poles, ancestral figures, shields with powerful ancestor imagery, spirit canoes, and full-length body masks made of rattan, bark and sago leaf.

Six items are held in trust for the Papua New Guinea government, including a trumpet, mask, female and male figures and hooks, all from the East Sepik Province. The de Young Museum has exhibited Oceanic art since it began in 1895. With the opening of the new museum building in 2005, the inaugural permanent exhibition of the Jolika Collection has thrust the art of New Guinea into the limelight. The collection is named after Marcia and John

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Friede’s three children, one of whom worked as a marine biologist in Papua New Guinea. It is housed in a special wing of the de Young where evocative mood lighting adds to the drama of the artwork. The art is inspired by the natural and supernatural worlds and the rituals surrounding life’s passages. Highlights include a collection of masks as well as spirit and ancestor figures, shields, daggers, amulets, ceremonial house posts, and even human skulls. Much of the work is from the Sepik River area, renowned for its rich artistic and carving traditions. Six items are held in trust for the Papua New Guinea government, including a trumpet, mask, female and male figures and hooks, all from the East Sepik Province. While the Metropolitan Museum collection is largely confined to work from the 19th and 20th centuries, the Jolika collection features some outstanding pieces of considerable age. Two artist-residency programs add another powerful dimension. The Jolika Fellowship program funds artists, museum professionals, and students from Papua New Guinea and West Papua for residencies at the de Young Museum, where they share their work with the public. The de Young Global Fellows program funds indigenous

living The collectors

Ancestor poles ... at New York’s Metroplitan Museum of Art.

art

artists from around the world to activate the museum as a space where important cultural connections can be forged and historic collections enlivened. Art, indigenous knowledge and technology are brought together to explore the relationship of the global community to the natural environment especially the issues facing Pacific Island communities. In 2014 Leonard Tebegetu from New Ireland was the inaugural de Young Global Fellow. Sometimes benefactors seem to create galleries as just another way to show off their wealth. But both of these

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remarkable collections have a completely different agenda. They seek to place the traditional art of New Guinea on an equal footing with art from the Western tradition, to show that they are worthy of being appreciated alongside Greek sculpture and Impressionist paintings. Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, see metmuseum.org. de Young Museum, San Francisco, see deyoung. famsf.org.

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PASSION play Rugby league has become a national obsession in PNG. Dorian Mode investigates.

Explosive ... PNG rugby league player Thompson Tetah.

love rugby league. Played it at school. Played it at uni. Indeed, when I was a student at the Sydney Conservatorium of Music I formed the first-ever rugby league team there called the Mozart Maulers. Our team comprised mostly brass players in the forwards and string players in the backs. In our inaugural game we defeated the premiers, Sydney University, 24–20. In fact, such was the intensity of the game, one of the opposition players was knocked unconscious in the final minutes. No one was more surprised than the

Conservatorium with its surprise victory. We thought we were on a Haydn to nothing (groan). Anyway, I wrote a funny book about it, aptly titled, The Mozart Maulers. But if you think I’m a fan of the game, I’ve got nothing on fans in the Pacific. Rugby league isn’t simply the most popular team sport in Papua New Guinea, it’s the national religion. Indeed, don’t be surprised if the local bishop arrives at mass with his cassock trimmed in team colours. PNG is rugby league crazy. Rugby league first gained ascendency in PNG in the 1930s, when Australian gold miners were prospecting in the

March – April 2015

living Passion play

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remote jungles of New Guinea and kicked a ball around in their downtime. Australia’s relationship with New Guinea galvanised during World War 2, especially during the battles of Kokoda, Milne Bay and Rabaul. It’s during this period, locals adopted the game as their own. As the game’s popularity as a spectator sport grew in the 1960s, it was still largely played by ex-pat Aussies. However, during the following decade participation in the sport blossomed, and in 1974 Papua New Guinea became a member of the Rugby League International Federation. The following year the national team played Great Britain, losing 40–12. Ten years later and the national team – the Kumuls (bird of paradise in Tok Pisin) – were competing in the Rugby League World Cup. PNG footy had arrived on the world stage. In the 1990s, a national competition was created: The SP Inter-City Cup. In 2005 the SP Inter-City Cup was revamped into the new look Papua New Guinea National Rugby League (PNGNRL). This competition comprises nine teams from cities and provinces in PNG, all vying for the SP Cup. The Young recruits ... children participating in the NRL’s program in Papua New Guinea.

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Flying the flag ... Papua New Guineans are enthusiastic rugby league fans.

March â&#x20AC;&#x201C; April 2015

living Passion play competition is modelled on the Australian NRL format, with 26 round-robin games followed by the top four sides in play-offs. (In 2007 a new league called the Nokondi Cup was created for teams in the Eastern Highlands province.) Like most professional leagues, below the primary competition exist numerous local and provincial teams and subsequent competitions, which in turn become feeder clubs for the main competition. The most notable team is the Port Moresby Vipers, which competed in the Australian Panasonic Cup in 1986, 1987, 1988 and 1989; and in the Queensland Cup competition in 1996 and 1997. In the new millennium, rugby league has become so intrinsic to PNG that Sir Michael Somare launched an official bid for a PNG team to join the Australian National Rugby League in October 2008. Numerous Papua New Guineans have gone on to play professional rugby league either in the National Rugby League in Australia or Super League in Europe. Adrian Lam (who captained the Queensland state-of-origin side), Neville Costigan and Marcus Bai are but a few of the stellar players to become household names in Australia. Back to school ... rugby league star Mark Mom, taking the game to the classroom.

84 Paradise â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Air Niuginiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s in-flight magazine

sport

living Passion play

sport

The many faces of the game ... the PNG team; an NRL session for up-and-coming PNG players.

I speak with former Canberra Raiders halfback/five-eighth (1993-96), Mark Mom. He is the NRL’s in-country general manager in PNG, delivering the League Bilong Laif development program. Besides playing in the NRL, he first played for PNG competing in World Sevens, then played for 10 years with the Kumuls, eventually captaining the national team. Mom – whose father was a diplomat – attended high school at St Johns Woodlawn College Lismore, a renowned rugby league nursery. Moreover, he’s a dual international of sorts, representing Australia in the schoolboys’ competition before playing for PNG. Mom says PNG’s passion for rugby league has never been more intense. He notes that during big games, there are often larger crowds outside a stadium that within it. And during the intensity of state-of-origin matches, televisions are known to fly through open windows. One image that sticks in his mind that encapsulates the locals’ passion for the game is one fan – during a Prime Minister’s 13 game in Kokopo – climbing a power pole to watch the match and not moving for six hours. Mom speaks passionately about the NRL’s Rugby League in Schools pilot program. This is a three-year pilot program funded by the Australian Government through its aid program. It’s branded as League Bilong Laif (League for Life) and engages a new generation of primary school students in rugby league throughout PNG. The goal of League Bilong Laif (LBL) is to improve the quality of education for girls and boys of all abilities in PNG, through rugby league. It also provides opportunities for women to forge a career in the game and aims to introduce a new generation of female participants to the sport. There is a focus on “respect” and the “importance of education for all Papua New Guineans” in addition to identified school specific messages such as anti-bullying throughout the program. In 2015, rugby league is so entrenched in the national psyche of PNG that not many others sports are played on such a scale with such passion in the country. Currently PNG is bidding to host games at the 2017 Rugby League World Cup, which will take place in Australia and NZ, and fingers crossed, PNG. It’s hoped that the building of new stadia for the Pacific Games increases the possibility of high-profile rugby league matches being staged in PNG.

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The Mozart Maulers, published by Penguin, is available on Kindle as an eBook.

NOW TH *A Papua IS locally bas New Guinea team (a ed players mixture of an an Austra lian Prime d internationals) pla Min ys The Austr alian team ister’s XIII annually . c o players fro m m the prem prises developing ie r com National R ugby Leag petition the ue (NRL). *The 15th Pacific Ga mes will b Moresby showcase from July 4-18. The e in Port Gam the athletes fr participation of mo es will om 24 Pac re than 30 0 if and discip lines. Rugb ic nations in 28 spo 0 rts y league w ill be inclu for the firs ded t time.

living

drink

fic i c a P h ut o S t a e The gr beer guide ews 10 br s k c i p sley ith under n a T g i Cra ool off w e. to c palm tre a

South Pacific (SP), Papua New Guinea Somehow you’d think a beer from a country as wild as Papua New Guinea might taste a bit more rugged – but of all the beers in the Pacific this is the beer that tastes the most Japanese – refined, light, dry, hopsy and only mildly bitter. It’s been around since 1951 but was recently taken over by Heineken, which invested over $100 million in it, including plans to export it to parts of Australia and New Zealand. So you might see it around the place a lot more soon – which is fine by me since it epitomises the tropical lager.

e know the South Pacific is home to some of the world’s most exotic islands and it’s where you’ll find the prettiest lagoons on Earth. But what about the beer? In this guide, we pop the top off 10 of the most noteable beers to provide these considered tasting notes. Well, somebody had to do it!

Hinano, Tahiti You haven’t arrived in Tahiti till you’re drinking an ice-cold Hinano beside a blue lagoon. It’s all everyone drinks in Tahiti. With its light, golden colouring, Hinano’s got that Corona kind of thing going for afternoon drinking. But there’s something more complex about it: it has a bitter after-taste that means it’s not as flimsy as some lagers can be. It’s not only Tahitians who love the stuff: in 1993 Hinano won Best International Beer at the prestigious Luxembourg beer awards. It’s also got the best beer label in the Pacific – a vahine in a sarong beside a lagoon.

March – April 2015

Living Cheers

drink

Vailima, Samoa

Tusker, Vanuatu

Perhaps there’s a nod to Samoa’s former rulers (Samoa was the only German colony in the Pacific) but you’ll notice how much Vailima tastes like a German lager from the moment you … well … taste it. The hops used are from Germany, and the government originally set up the brewery with German partners. But it’s a nice change to many Pacific lagers – it’s more malty than most. It’s hard to find a Vailima outside Samoa – but that means drinking your first one in Samoa tastes even better. It’s the prototype for a tropical beer – light, refreshing with a cleansing aftertaste that doesn’t scream hangover.

It’s a beer that’s got better with the times. People used to call it flat, thin and bland. But these days the design of the beer label’s not the only thing that’s improved – the beer’s gotten spicier giving just the amount of kick to wash down Vanuatu’s famous kava (the Pacific’s strongest, or so they say), or to toast another hot sunny day on the lagoon. It’s a lighter tasting lager which makes it ideal for afternoon sipping. The great thing about Tusker is it’s not just for tourists – it’s a working-class beer for the people that still doesn’t look out of place in Vanuatu’s finest restaurants.

Vonu, Fiji

Matutu, Cook Islands

Vonu’s slogan “Pure Fiji Rainwater Turned Into Beer” is a clever one, and combined with its swanky bottle design you can’t help feeling Vonu will taste clean and crisp just by looking at it. The good news it does, but there’s more going for it too; it’s darker than most pale lagers, it’s halfway between a pale and an amber lager and you can taste the difference. There’s more malt, mixed with a little fruit – like you might expect in a wheat beer. Little wonder Coca-Cola bought the brand two years ago to try market it outside Fiji.

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In the old days, if you wanted a locally brewed beer in the Cooks the only choice was Cooks Lager. It was cheap and not highly regarded – as high as 6.5 per cent in alcohol content, with some batches of beer often burnt. Locals haven’t shown the same loyalty for Matutu (probably because it’s premium priced), but visitors love the stuff. Brewed by two families of locals who returned to Rarotonga, the lager is made from German Pilsner malt, and four hops are added to give it a little more oomph. It might be only five years old but it’s fast become the beer of the Cooks.

Living Cheers

drink

Number One, New Caledonia Surely it’s that renowned French confidence that prompted the naming of Number One lager in one of France’s two Pacific outposts, New Caledonia. While Number One is indeed number one in New Caledonia, for me it doesn’t quite rate alongside the Hinanos, Matutus and Vailimas of the Pacific. Produced these days by Heineken’s Asia Pacific operation, at least you know the quality’s there in each batch. It’s an American pale lager-style beer that’s got a sweet kind of smell about it but the taste is quite bitter.

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Fiji Bitter, Fiji This is the beer of the Fijian people – it has over 90 per cent of the market share in Fiji. But there’s something about its dull green label and its generic kind of Aussie lager taste that makes you draw parallels to Australia’s middle-of-the-road, blue-collar favourite, VB. You almost expect it to carry the same slogan: “for a hard-earned thirst”. The slogan would work, because the beer’s low carbonation and its hints of fruit satisfy even the driest throat. But it’s not likely to be a beer you’ll miss, and besides, you can always take home the singlet.

Living Cheers

drink

SolBrew, Solomon Islands

Matso’s Smokey Bishop Dark Lager, Australia

They say in the Solomons you can have any beer you Brewed on-site at one of the Pacific’s most iconic old like as long as it’s SolBrew. It’s worshipped there; buildings in the former red-light district of the pearling so much so that Heineken figured it would gain a town of Broome, ironically this lager’s named after majority stake in the 21-year-old brewer just to a local clergyman who was fond of a tipple. The see what all the fuss was about. Pacific islanders Matso’s microbrewery makes seven other beers – tend to be parochial about beer, but it borders on and two ciders – and you can see why together fanaticism here. It’s a good beer, too – grassier they’ve won so many of Australia’s brewing than most lagers, it awards. The Dark tastes almost healthy Lager’s only made in with a hint of earthy small batches so a KNOW THIS vegetables. But lot of love and effort of Royal Ikale tles bot use y the there’s a tartness to it, goes into each bottle. ga, Ton In sand to hold h wit n dow ed igh too, that I reckon really You’d think a beer we r bee placed over the s und mo tive ora comes out with lime with chocolate and dec n dow the 100-day ing dur ves gra sh fre added (though don’t coffee notes mightn’t of top traditional in is t tha ing urn mo of let locals catch you, it’s work in the tropics. iod per drink Royal considered treason to Don’t think, just drink, the island group. You can ! Ikale, too, and it’s not bad mess with Solbrew). ’cause it does. It’s magic, Kimberley style.

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Living

out and about

Leisure time ... Club Illusion (this page and next page, bottom); The Boatshed (next page, top).

Night moves Carla Ewin checks out Port Moresby after dark, from thumping nightclubs to lively bars and laidback cafes.

ith a growing middle class in Port Moresby (POM) and a consistent expatriate population, the city’s nightlife has expanded in response to the demand for more venues to quench a thirst for entertainment. While some of the city’s stalwarts for entertainment remain, there are some newer venues worth checking out.

HAPPY HOUR Cafe on the Edge This cafe is the perfect spot for a happy hour after-work drink on a Friday evening. It is one of the few places in POM to recline and watch the amazing sunsets of Fairfax Harbor. Friendly manager and proud Kiwi, Scotty Osborne, is more than happy to have a chat, share a Heineken with you and gloat about the All

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Blacks’ latest victory. It’s also a great place to meet other POM residents as most people are happy to welcome a newcomer to town. Come often enough and you will start to feel like you’ve walked into the Cheers bar as the staff greet you by name.

Start your Friday evening recling in leather chairs with a cocktail in hand and nibbling on delicious tapas

For a bite to eat, the Edge makes some of the best burgers in town. The Boardwalk Burger is a standout with its mushroom sauce, and the steak sandwich should not be overlooked, either. With its affiliation with the Food Station, pizzas and other meals can be delivered to the cafe. During the day, the cafe is a bustling spot for business meetings with Bank of South Pacific (BSP), ANZ Bank and InterOil located nearby. The cafe is located in the Edge Apartments at Harbour City. Open Friday night until 10pm. See facebook.com/CafeOnTheEdge.

The Grand Bar If you fancy starting your Friday evening reclining in luxurious leather chairs with a freshly made cocktail in hand and nibbling on delicious tapas featuring local produce, then the Grand Bar is the ideal spot.

Living

out and about

Located in the Grand Papua Hotel, one of POM’s five-star hotels in the CBD, the Grand Bar’s cocktail happy hour draws in workers from the nearby office buildings. Women receive a free glass of champagne on arrival. The bar is known for its range of Havana Club mojitos and also showcases a range of top-shelf spirits and wines. The complimentary bar snacks, such as kau kau chips (local sweet potato), will also whet the appetite, which can be satisfied by the bar’s tapas menu. You may also encounter the popular local cover band, the Betelnuts. While no formal dance floor is catered for in the bar, an impromptu one is often created once the Betelnuts start their set after 8pm. Happy hour is 4-6pm and, depending on the crowd, the bar will stay open as late as 1am. See grandpapuahotel.com.pg.

NIGHTCLUBS Club Illusion For those keen to experience local music and the up-and-coming talent of PNG and the Pacific, Club Illusion features some of the country’s best DJs and artists. Akay47, Justin Wellington and Moqai are some of the headlining acts that regularly grace the club. If the names don’t sound familiar, get along to Club Illusion to be enlightened – literally. The club’s stage features a massive and impressive LED screen that adds to the electric atmosphere of the dance floor when these artists start to rev up the crowd. Although it is a smaller venue than some of the other clubs, this allows for a more intimate show and the chance to mingle with the artists after their performance. The club holds so many theme nights, has drink specials and hosts various album launches that it’s hard to keep up. The major alcohol brands also sponsor various party nights; so one night the dress code may be beachwear, the next, a glow-in-the dark fluoro party. Club entry fee is usually PGK25, but can vary depending on the entertainment. March – April 2015

Living Night moves Club Illusion is in the Granville Downtown Plaza Shop complex, above restaurant Asia Aromas in the CBD. See facebook.com/ClubIllusionPNG.

Cosmopolitan Night Club The club is the newest venue in the POM nightclubbing scene. It has raised the bar with international acts that now put PNG on their tour schedules. The likes of Shaggy and T-Pain are some the artists that have entertained the club’s packed out crowds. Decked out in sophisticated woodwork, lush carpets, geometric design and a killer sound system, the Cosmopolitan is a place to get your dance on. As the club’s name suggests, the bar staff can also make a wide range of delectable cocktails. The Cosmopolitan also has a restaurant and can cater for large events such as the club’s inaugural Oktoberfest 2014 celebrations. Entry prices vary, depending on the night of the week. The Cosmopolitan is on level two of the Vision City Shopping Mall, open from Tuesday to Saturday from 10am. It closes at 4am from Thursday to Saturday. See cosmopilitanpng.com.

Lamana Gold Club This was POM’s first major nightclub. It markets itself as the party capital of the South Pacific and it certainly continues to draw some big crowds. Celebrating its 20th year, the club recently underwent renovations, expanding the area of the second-level bar, which provides a stadium-like atmosphere for large concert events. Lamana has also brought some major international acts to POM, including Maxi Priest and UB40. The nightclub has committed to bringing an international act to POM every month, so it is worth checking out its Facebook page for the next act or theme night. General admission is PGK25, but can vary depending on the event night and areas of the club you want to access. See facebook.com/pages/The-Gold-Club. Centre stage … the Gold Club (top); the Cosmopolitan (bottom).

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out and about

Living Night moves

SUNDAY SESSION The Boatshed To cap off a weekend, you can’t look past the Royal Papua Yacht Club’s newest addition, The Boatshed. An alfresco grassy area, next to the marina, gives patrons the best atmosphere to soak up the tropical ambience of POM’s balmy nights while listening to local acoustic artists. Large wooden tables under umbrellas allow for groups of friends to gather. The Boatshed has also started a monthly themed Friday cuisine night. Drawing on his experiences in London, general manager James Illing has a number of ideas up his sleeve to follow his successful Bubbledog and Mexican Fiesta food events. Being located within the RPYC, entry is at the invitation of a member. See facebook.com/royalpapuayachtclub.

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out and about

Living

architecture

PICTURE: MANDARIN ORIENTAL HOTELS

City of lights ... the Kuala Lumpur skyline with the Petronas Twin Towers.

The BOLD and the

BEAUTIFUL K

uala Lumpur has come a long way since its founding on a swamp in the 1850s. Today its skyscrapers give it soaring cachet and the futuristic look of steel and glass. It’s striking to think that a 40-metre clock tower, constructed in 1897, once dominated the skyline. But look up as you walk the Malaysian

capital and you’ll see that Kuala Lumpur’s architecture has always been bold, borne of a fantastical collaboration of diverse cultures. The clock tower tops the colonial-era Sultan Abdul Samad Building. Built in pink and terracotta brickwork, with a jumble of spiralling staircases, arches and copper domes, it looks more like a Moorish pleasure palace than a

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government ministry. It marks the heart of the original city, which bears the imprint of colonial British architecture. Across the square, the Royal Selangor Club is a sedate affair in black-and-white, mock-Tudor style; cricket is still played on the green on Sunday afternoons. British architects of the day were much taken by Moghul architecture from India.

Keep your eyes up in Kuala Lumpur: the city’s flamboyant architecture graces mosques, skyscrapers and even railway stations, finds Brian Johnston.

Living The bold and the beautiful

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PICTURES: TOURISM MALAYSIA

Along the river, another fabled Kuala Lumpur landmark also sports minarets, cupolas and quaint pavilions that give it the look of a maharaja’s summer retreat. In fact, it’s Kuala Lumpur Railway Station, which train-mad travel writer Paul Theroux described as the grandest station in Southeast Asia. Another building by British public-works architect Arthur Bennison Hubback is Jamek Mosque, standing where the Klang and Gombak rivers converge. Built in 1907, its delicate minarets and spires also evoke Moghul design; delicate in pink brick and contrasting white cupolas. Following Malaysia’s independence in 1957, architects sought to express its newfound national identity by looking to Islamic tradition. The 1965 National Mosque is a fine example. It has a magnificent, low-lying blue-green roof pleated like a half-folded fan. Inside, marble floors, reflecting pool and splashing fountains create a peaceful oasis amid the city’s bustle. Its Grand Hall is supported by 18 pillars supporting a dome and 18-point star, representing the 13 Malaysian states and five pillars of Islam. White latticework brings to mind Arabic calligraphy. Islamic architecture was also the inspiration in 1984 for both the Tabung Haji Building, noted for its unique hourglass shape, and Dayabumi Building. This skyscraper arguably remains the city’s most elegant, with its white exterior walls sculpted into Islamicinspired geometrical designs. By the 1990s, architects were also looking to Malay culture for inspiration. The National Library resembles a traditional Malay headdress, while the National Theatre has sweeping buffalo-horn roofs. Both were soon utterly eclipsed by the Petronas Towers, however. When the 88-storey, 452-metre towers opened in 1998 they became, for a time, the world’s tallest buildings and announced Malaysia’s arrival on the world economic stage. Resolutely contemporary, the design of geometric patterns nonetheless incorporates Islamic elements. The bridge that links the two buildings has a viewing platform from which visitors can gaze down on the sprawl of the Malaysian capital and marvel.

architecture

Up close ... KL’s famous Petronas Twin Towers (above); the Jamek Mosque (top).

architecture

ÂŠ Tourism Malaysia

Living

City sights ... a view over Kuala Lumpur with the Sultan Abdul Samad Building in the foreground (above); a swanky Kuala Lumpur shopping mall (left); contemporary KL architecture (below).

March â&#x20AC;&#x201C; April 2015

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Living

Life’s sweet as apple pie

Greg Clarke meets a PNG chef who is cooking up a storm in regional Australia.

ne of the first dishes restaurateur and chef Daniel Brehaut (pictured) tried to cook didn’t make it to the plate. While it was brilliantly imaginative, at least at the time, it consisted of a single highly recommended ingredient that was hard and green. It was never going to fry up tastefully. Brehaut grew up in Rabaul. His dad is Australian, his mother from PNG’s Duke of York Islands. Brehaut’s Australian grandmother was one of his earliest food influencers and often used to tell the youngster how wonderful green apples were for cooking. At five, he took the literal view of gran’s advice, put a whole green apple in

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Food

Living Life’s sweet as apple pie a fry pan and tried to work some pre-school magic in the kitchen. “Nothing was happening; I was thinking how come green apples are so good?” Brehaut smiles: “Always that memory stays with me”. Brehaut owns two restaurants – the Black Bull Tapas Bar and Grill and Mojo Mama – in Geelong, the second-largest city after Melbourne in the Australian state of Victoria. His wife Tamara helps run them and works front of house at one. Together, the couple manages the staff of 30 and the Brehaut family, which includes the couple’s two girls, Elizabeth, 8, and Isabelle, 6. For Brehaut, life may now seem as sweet as one of the apple pies his grandma baked. The apple and the fry pan can now be seen as a portent: setbacks, no matter how hard, can ultimately define all of us. Brehaut went to school in Rabaul and at 12, in 1988, was sent to boarding school in Queensland. At 17 he’d finished school, was

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Food

jobless and going through life’s mincer. “I had no skills, I couldn’t get a job. I had nothing and was getting up to mischief in Brisbane. I was rock bottom, mixing with the wrong crowd, questioning my worth.” He knew he needed to work. “I rang Dad and got a ticket to Port Moresby.” In 1993 he started working at the Travel Lodge, one of the exclusive hotels in Port Moresby at the time. The one kina an hour wage didn’t stretch far. “I gave one third to my aunty for rent, one third for food and drink. I was there for two years and made my own opportunities.” Brehaut started on the restaurant floor but worked himself into the kitchen and met a couple of Australian executive chefs. One was Michael Fletcher. “He’d opened some pretty good restaurants around the world and had cooked for the Queen.” When Fletcher returned to Australia he rang Brehaut and offered him an apprenticeship at a hotel on the Gold Coast. Brehaut was there for four years.

His influential grandmother had died in 1988 but in 2000 Brehaut moved to Melbourne to live with his grandad. He had plans to go to London, but won a job at a major Melbourne hotel (Crown) and met Tamara, a croupier. In 2006, the couple moved an hour southwest of Melbourne to Geelong. Real estate was cheap for a couple with a portfolio of plans that included starting a family and a business. They opened the Black Bull in 2008. According to Brehaut, Spanish food was red hot at the time and the dining concept of

Living

“sharing little bits and pieces of food” relates also to his PNG heritage. “The meal is in the centre and everyone shares the food. It’s how I like to eat at home. Rather than everyone sitting down to one big meal I like to put out a platter of meat and vegetables and everyone helps themselves.” When the couple fired up the stoves for their new restaurant, Isabelle was less than a

They haven’t got iPhones or iPods. They are playing with toys made from the bush. Look how happy they are.

Food

year old. It was the year of the global financial crisis (GFC). Brehaut started teaching cooking to help pay the bills. “I didn’t pay myself (from the restaurant) for six months.” Hard graft and the lessons of the mincer meant Brehaut rode out the GFC. Every now and again, Brehaut has wine dinners at the Black Bull and PNG cuisine often features on the menu. Aigir, a classic chicken dish with greens and coconut milk and mumu (pork traditionally cooked in a barbecue pit) are two dishes he serves. Brehaut returned to PNG with his family last year, the first time in 15 years. They travelled from the PNG mainland by banana boat to the Duke of York Islands. Walking once-familiar dirt paths, Brehaut was welcomed back by people he hadn’t seen for 20 years. “Tamara was blown away,” says Brehaut of the greeting he and his family received. In no time the kids were running with the locals.

“I was glad to take them back to the islands. I told them to take in the [local] kids. They haven’t got iPhones or iPods. They are playing with toys made from the bush. Look how happy they are.” Taking the family regularly to PNG is part of the Brehaut family’s plans. Brehaut hopes to live in Molot – the island’s main village – for six months and teach his girls more about the appealing simplicity of island life.

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Living Life’s sweet as apple pie In 1994, the streets of Rabaul, where Brehaut wandered as a boy, were covered by the ash of an erupting volcano. Many of his childhood footprints – his home and primary school – have been lost to ash. The fact affects him deeply but doesn’t stop him often reflecting on times past. “I wouldn’t have achieved what I have today if I didn’t start where I did; no way. I would have taken things for granted.” The village of Molot may yet become the place where he and Tamara teach their girls some of life’s essential lessons. For a PNG chef, it has extra significance. “It’s where I feel at home.” ir Niugini flies from Port Moresby A to Sydney every Friday and Sunday. Local airlines connect from Sydney to Melbourne and Geelong.

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Food

Plated up … service with a smile at the Black Bull Tapas Bar and Grill where PNG chef Daniel Brehaut is making his mark.

Living

gadgets BY NINA KARNIKOWSKI

Gadgets and travel accessories Logitech AnyAngle

Using your iPad on the go has become that little bit easier thanks to the Logitech AnyAngle protective stand, which uses a hidden hinge and magnetic system to adjust to any angle you’d like. It includes a rubberised frame that protects both the iPad Air 2 and all iPad Mini models from accidental bumps and drops, and a front cover with hidden magnets to keep the case closed and protect the screen from scratches and cracks. Comes in a variety of colours. PGK147, logitech.com

Saktory Swiss army knife

The traditional red Swiss army knife by Victorinox has been given a chic makeover by design house Saktory, featuring more than 100 new designs including everything from an American flag to cherry blooms and comic strip montages. Essential for any glamping trip, they also make a great gift for the travel tragic as they can be personalised with a name or message. From PGK139, saktory.com

Kathmandu quickDRY socks Soft, breathable, and super quick to dry, these socks will keep your feet dry even after you’ve climbed to the top of Tavurvur Volcano and back. Crafted from the brand’s COOLMAX fabric, they have a mesh knit top and a cushion sole, meaning they’re extra comfortable, and their cotton polyester mix ensures your feet are kept cool, too. PGK63 for a pack of two pairs, kathmandu.com.au

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TP-LINK router

The pocket-sized, portable, batterypowered TP-LINK TL-MR3040 travel router can’t make hotel Wi-Fi cheap, but it can help to make it fast and wireless, making it perfect for business travellers. Just plug your hotel’s Ethernet cable into the device and voila, you can create your own Wi-Fi network that you can use with up to five gadgets. Easy-to-use and extraordinarily functional. PGK120, tp-link.com

Ripple boots from Rossi

Laid-back suede desert boots might be the ideal companion for a weekend hike, especially when they’re from Rossi, whose ripple boots are renowned for their comfortable wide fit and Tarzan-like grip. The design, which has been around since the 1950s, features a white stitched trim that makes them stylish enough to be taken out to dinner, too. PGK313, rossiboots.com.au

Living

Lapoche belt and tie roll

A neat idea from travel organisation company Ciao Bella Travel, this circular belt and tie holder keeps your business travel accessories in pristine condition, so you can look your most dapper wherever you are in the world. The clever compartment includes space for cufflinks and watches in the mesh zippered pocket, and fits up to five ties and two belts. Also fully lined and machine washable. PGK53, ciaobellatravel.com.au

gadgets

HoodiePillow

Ever wish you could just disappear on a long-haul flight? Well, the HoodiePillow is probably the closest thing to an invisibility cloak: a hood made from sweatshirt material with a full pillowcase or inflatable neck pillow attached. The drawstring means you can adjust it around your head to block out the light, and the side pocket gives you somewhere safe to store your phone, wallet or iPod. Machine washable and available in a variety of bright colours. From PGK65, hoodiepillow.com

Travelon dry bag

Multi-purpose items are always more than welcome on any adventure, when backpack space is scarce. Enter these self-sealing dry bags from Travelon, which can be used as a float bag, a compression bag, or to keep your things dry. Made from PVC, with a static seal that ensures a water and airtight seal, and available in three sizes. From PGK52, travelonbags.com

Dormify luggage tags Dress up your old suitcases with these vintage-inspired luggage tags, which come printed with a selection of fun messages. They feature a classic buckle strap and have a hidden ID card compartment. PGK37, dormify.com

Patagonia hip pack

Livescribe Moleskine notebook

Moleskine, the notebook of choice for travellers around the globe, has created the Livescribecompatible version of its notebook. Using a Livescribe smartpen and the Livescribe+ app, you can now jot down thoughts, pictures or handdrawn maps on the page and have them appear identically on your smartphone. The perfect mix of analogue and digital. PGK78, moleskine.com

You can think of the Patagonia lightweight travel hip pack as a mini toolbox. It’s tough and lightweight, crafted from nylon with a silicone face for weather protection, and has a smaller pocket on the front for items like keys and phones. It also has an adjustable hip belt, plus a small pocket inside that it folds into, making it simple to pack. PGK105, patagonia.com

Black Diamond headlamp

The sun goes down, tree roots and steps melt into the shadows, and accidents start to happen. That’s why every traveller needs a powerful headlamp, and one of the best in the game is Black Diamond’s new Icon, which features a powerful 320-lumen QuadPower LED, waterproof construction and a balanced batteries-in-the-back design. PGK233, blackdiamondequipment.com March – April 2015

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Living

Books BY GREG CLARKE

The Birth of Korean Cool (Simon & Schuster) by Euny Hong Pass through any city-sized airport in Asia and you can make a fair shot of picking out the South Koreans – at least when it comes to anyone under 30 consumed by pop culture. In The Birth of Korean Cool, journalist Euny Hong tracks South Korea’s staggering transformation: from third-world military dictatorship to first-world liberal democracy, a global technology leader and the home of K-Pop. Hong moved with her parents from Chicago to the wealthy Gangnam neighbourhood of Seoul in the 1980s when she was 12, was witness to the most accelerated part of South Korea’s economic development, and recounts how the once aid-dependent country vaulted itself into the 21st century. Featuring interviews with Koreans working in all areas of government and society, The Birth of Korean Cool reveals how a nation that once banned miniskirts, long hair on men and rock ’n roll could come to mass produce boy bands, soap operas, and – according to fans of Samsung – one of the world’s most important smart phones.

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Hong Kong Precincts: A curated guide to the city’s best shops, eateries, bars and other hangouts (Hardie Grant) by Penny Watson Hong Kong is a city where travellers can wallow in markets selling pigs ears, and then talk about the experience in a funky bar over a cocktail they might not have known existed. Hong Kong Precincts captures both ends of the city’s eclectic experiences. Author Penny Watson has travelled the world writing feature articles for magazines and newspapers including Hong Kong Tatler, South China Morning Post and Australia’s Sydney Morning Herald. She has lived in Seville, London, San Francisco and more recently, and most importantly – at least for this book – Hong Kong. Watson has included interviews with creative and well-known Hong Kong residents such as high-profile chef Alvin Leung; the chairman of Hong Kong Ambassadors of Design, Alan Lo; founder of the Kapok retail business, Arnault Castel; and design guru Irene Capriz. The artfully designed book is divided into chapters with itineraries for 15 precincts (including Macau) and covers the very best of Hong Kong’s shopping, eating and drinking. Information at the front and back offers expert travel tips. Precinct maps make this stylish book a handy reference guide as well.

Island of a Thousand Mirrors (Penguin) by Nayomi Munaweera Testimonials on book covers could sometimes be taken with a grain of salt, but one for debut novelist Nayomi Munaweera’s Sri Lankan story, hints that Island of a Thousand Mirrors has contemporary relevance far beyond its pages: “The women at the core of this ambitious, global-spanning story show us, heartbreakingly, that we are linked by more than nation, more than race, more, even than blood”. In Munaweera’s powerful novel the lives of two young women from very different families are fatefully linked by a chance encounter before civil war tears apart the island. Yasodhara is from Colombo and leads a life of privilege in a Sinhala family, while Saraswathi is a Tamil who finds riches in dreams of teaching. These don’t keep her safe from Sinhala soldiers and a conflict she has tried desperately to avoid. It’s a powerful story that strikes at the heart of war and is woven by writing that may be finer than the testimonial: the author was born in Sri Lanka, lived for a time in Nigeria with her family, completed a literature degree in California and had plans to self flagellate by studying for a PhD. Munaweera escaped to teach, as well as write, her prize-winning book.

Living

movies By GREG CLARKE

Focus

Top Five

Unfinished business

Playing a veteran con artist, Will Smith teams up with a female novice to whom he wants to teach his tricks. But it’s not all about hard graft and winning of confidences for one of these two, and when the novice lets emotion get in the way of work, the mixing of business and pleasure comes to a swift end. Later, Smith’s character, Nicky, is in Buenos Aires working on a scheme that involves equal parts danger and daring – which may be entirely appropriate given the potential victim is involved in motor racing – when his former female protege, Jess, played by Australian actor Margot Robbie, makes an unexpected appearance. Jess is now something of a femme fatale and Nicky has other things to consider at a time when work should be all that’s on his mind. Focus is a romance/comedy/drama and is written and directed by Glenn Ficarra and John Requa, the duo with their fingerprints all over I Love You Phillip Morris and Crazy, Stupid, Love. Robbie’s movie credits include playing Leonardo di Caprio’s girlfriend in Wolf of Wall Street.

Chris Rock directs and stars as Andre Allan, a former stand-up comic who wants to morph from funny to serious. Allan is the star of a trilogy of action-comedies about a talking bear but makes a movie about the 1791 Haitian Revolution. After its release, Allan is interviewed by a profile writer for the New York Times (played by Rosario Dawson whose credits include Men in Black 2 and Alexander) and the two strike an unlikely connection when they mine the minutiae of Allan’s not always glorious, sometimes scandalously tacky, past. Alcoholism, and at least one orgy, is recalled and so is the game called Top Five, which a young Allan and his mates played while picking their favourite hip-hop artists The movie includes appearances from people who move in Rock’s real-life world – comedians and rappers including Cedric the Entertainer, Tracy Morgan from Saturday Night Live, Michael Che and a concert of others. Writing in Rolling Stone, Peter Travis described this as Rock’s best movie by a mile and authentically hilarious.

Director Ken Scott weaves Vince Vaughan, Dave Franco, Tom Wilkinson and Sienna Miller into a comedy about a businessman (Vaughan) and his two employees who travel to Germany to seal a company saving deal. Vaughan is the middleman for his one older staff member (Englishman Wilkinson) and the younger man played by Franco. These three amigos do all the right things in a foreign country and try to come to terms with the ways of the locals: they immerse themselves in bars and, on at least one occasion, a riot. As with every business trip, things go perfectly smoothly (yep, you can cough here). Small-business man Vaughan is also faced with the additional, and very real, challenge of trying to balance what is going on at home with his kids while he’s on the road trying to stave off mercantile ruin. Regular business travellers, at least those with children, will probably readily recognise some of balls being juggled in Unfinished Business.

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The movies featured on this page will screen at Port Moresby’s Paradise Cinema. For screening dates and session times see paradisecinemapng.com.

strictly business from www.businessadvantagepng.com

OK TEDI Ok Tedi Mining’s new COO, Musje Werror, outlines his strategy after Papua New Guinea extends the life of the mine.

A vision for the future … Ok Tedi’s new chief operating officer Musje Werror says the company will be implement initiatives to ensure the business remains viable.

he Ok Tedi mine lease has been extended for 11 years, but with falling ore prices, lower head grades and production issues, it faces critical challenges. Q: How has the past year been for Ok Tedi? MW: It has been a tough year. We have experienced similar production issues to those that we had in 2013, such as the flooding of the mine pit caused by record rainfall events preventing access to our main ore body, and issues with our ageing plant and concentrator infrastructure, resulting in unplanned

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downtime. These issues along with falling metal prices and lower head grades have contributed to below-budget performance, particularly in the second half of the year. Q: Parliament passed legislation on November 26, extending the life of the mine by 11 years until 2025; what are the plans for the coming years? MW: We have been preparing for the mine life continuation since 2009 when we commenced the consultation process with the mine associated communities in the Western Province. During the consultation, we informed the communities that the mine

will be smaller, generating less revenue and profits and because of this, the company will be implementing a number of initiatives to ensure the business remains viable. Some of the initiatives include reviewing our workforce plan, introducing new rosters, implementing a new business operating system – SAP, significantly reducing our costs, and reviewing how we train and develop our people, to name a few. We are also preparing for the future beyond 2025, and will continue to fund our exploration programs on our near-mine exploration leases.

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Mining

Up for the challenge Q: How much of the mine life extension is going to be drawn from the existing resources you have in pit, and how important is it to actually find new deposits? MW: The current life-of-mine plan is based on the current ore body. The next four-to-five years are going to be very lean times for the company and therefore we are conducting enhanced drilling programs within the current operating mine lease, in addition to accelerated exploration programs at our nearmine exploration leases, to provide additional ore. Q: It’s a very rich deposit the Ok Tedi Mine’s been sitting on for quite some time. What are your hopes for finding more resources? MW: There is huge potential for this mine to continue well beyond 2025, given the high mineral prospects in the area. However, this is dependent on us finding acceptable waste solutions.

There is huge potential for this mine to continue well beyond 2025, given the high mineral prospects in the area.

Q: The Western Province relies heavily on the mine for its economic wellbeing. There are some exciting developments in gas occurring, which might mean that Ok Tedi doesn’t have to bear the heavy load quite so much. How do you help the communities around the mine get used to reduced income?

MW: There are a number of benefits that the communities have received from the mine since production commenced in 1984 and over the past 34 years we have continued to work with our communities to ensure that they put the benefits they receive from the mine to good use. It is an ongoing challenge since there is still a high dependency on the mine but the last five years, I would say, has been the most productive with the excellent work being done by the Ok Tedi Development Foundation (OTDF) to introduce initiatives to encourage our communities to become selfsufficient. More needs to be done, but we are certainly on the right track. Q: Regarding your exploration program, where are you looking at the moment, and will it be in partnership, or will it be as a sole developer of those exploration tenements? MW: We are actively drilling a number of exploration leases owned 100 per cent by OTML around our current Special Mining Lease and will undertake prefeasibility studies to determine if they are economically viable before we advance to the next stage. Q: What are going to be the commercial opportunities for contractors or for companies looking to supply goods and services to the mine? Is that going to dry up, or will there still be opportunities? MW: The mine needs to keep operating and there will still be opportunities; however with the tough times ahead and our strong focus on containing our costs, it is going to affect our contractors and suppliers – we expect them to reduce their prices and rates if they want to retain their business with Ok Tedi. Q: What copper price do you need to have in the market place for Ok Tedi to make money as a mine?

MW: Our profitability depends on our copper and gold production. With all things being equal, at current metal prices, we need to produce 94,000 tonnes of copper per year and 8890 kilograms of gold to break even. Q: Finally, your appointment. You’re a Papua New Guinean about to start running a PNG-owned mine. This is a first in Ok Tedi’s history. How significant do you feel this is? MW: I think it’s very significant, in the sense that Ok Tedi has been the leader in a number of leading edge initiatives and my appointment is one such example. It paves the way for other PNG resource companies to follow the same path in the near future. n

The stories in our ‘Strictly Business’ section were first published in PNG’s online business magazine, businessadvantagepng.com and are re-published by arrangement with Business Advantage International.

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Resources

The last word ExxonMobil’s departing managing director, Peter Graham, reflects on his time in the country and the successful ExxonMobil-led PNG LNG project. Q: What was the critical factor in getting the PNG LNG project completed on time? PG: Alignment with the Government was critical, and I think the Government recognised very early on that this was a transformational project. That truly was critical from the outset. Without their support and direction from the then-Prime Minister, Sir Michael Somare, and subsequently from Peter O’Neill, it would have been far more challenging to achieve what we have done. Agencies and departments across all levels of Government have stepped up and done an absolutely spectacular job. Nothing got held up on the docks, permits and visas were processed in an extremely timely manner. That sort of achievement is world class, but the Government gave it special project status – that was critical. Also, I think ExxonMobil made a significant difference in the execution of this project, simply through what it brought to the party in terms of experience and capability.

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We have an enormous reservoir of talent from doing projects around the world, with well-honed systems and processes which means, when you run into an obstacle, somewhere in our organisation we have somebody who’s been there before who can help. Q: ExxonMobil was new to PNG when this project started. So what tips and recommendations would you pass on to newcomers? PG: I think probably number one is learning how to deal with communities. It’s just so critical in Papua New Guinea, particularly when it comes to access to land – and you can’t do Powering ahead … ExxonMobil’s LNG plant outside Port Moresby (above); Peter Graham (right); Graham with Acting Minister for Petroleum and Energy, Ben Micah, signing a memorandum of understanding for the PNG LNG project to supply gas for electricity generation. PNG Prime Minister, Peter O’Neill, and ExxonMobil PNG production manager, Andrew Barry, look on (opposite page).

anything without access to land. I think that was probably one of the earliest and toughest lessons for us to learn. A lot of our projects elsewhere in the world are offshore, and you don’t have landowners to deal with offshore! But with an onshore project, learning how to co-exist with landowners and understanding the strong bond landowners have with their land … it took us a while to figure out how to make it work, and how to relate to those traditional landowners and find solutions that were mutually beneficial. Now, I think we have very strong relationships and a mutual understanding and respect. Q: Did it help having a partner like Oil Search, for example, and other partners in the project who had more local knowledge? PG: Oil Search had some local knowledge. They’ve been an operator since 2003. So we were able to learn some lessons from them

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and also from other operators and others with extensive experience in PNG. Ultimately we had to find ways to work that were consistent with our corporate values and expected behaviours. Landowner leaders, themselves, would come forward and offer advice on how to deal with things, too, and that was incredibly helpful. They were keen to find ways to get through challenges. They were almost always willing to talk and learn with us, and they understood that if there were any delays, then the “pie”, so to speak, was going to be smaller to share. Q: The challenge now is to make the most of the infrastructure that you built for the PNG LNG project, and the most obvious thing is to extend to a third train. So what are the prospects for that stage? PG: I think the prospects are good. However, there is work that needs to be done before you can start talking seriously about the next step. The starting point for any development is accumulating proved reserves, and it’s a challenge for every development, not just us.

It took us a while to relate to traditional landowners and find solutions that were mutually beneficial. Now, I think we have very strong relationships and a mutual understanding and respect.

Resources

provide access to the long-term natural gas reserves needed for power generation, and to enable expansion of the PNG LNG Project, which could include the development of a possible additional train. An additional appraisal well will be drilled at P’nyang in 2016, and we will start preparations for that in 2015. Obviously, there are still steps to be taken before we can make any commitment to expansion or a third train, but we’re diligently working through the process now. Q: You talked about the prospects of maybe using some of the gas for domestic energy and I think you’ve had conversations with the Government since then. What’s the latest on that? PG: We have signed an MOU with the PNG Government to supply up to 20 million cubic feet a day of natural gas for 20 years to support government plans to improve the capacity and reliability of the country’s power supply. A portion of the natural gas supply allocated for domestic use will enable PNG LNG to provide up to 25 megawatts of electrical power for an interim period while the government addresses long-term power generation options. The remainder of the gas supply will be used to fuel state-owned gas fired power generation units expected

to be located near the LNG Plant outside of Port Moresby. We think that this is a great step towards improved supply for Port Moresby, and will be working with PNG Power and doing our best to support them so they can quickly access the power. Q: And that would be for Moresby? PG: It’s for Moresby, but we’ve also had a long-standing commitment under the Gas Agreement to supply four million cubic feet a day in the Highlands for power generation, and we stand ready to deliver that as well. It’s downstream of the Hides gas plant. Q: A final question: your personal reflections on your time in Papua New Guinea? PG: It’s been fantastic. It’s been a wonderful experience, and if you had to choose where to finish your career, I couldn’t think of a better place to finish it, or a better project to finish it on. So I leave with lots of fond memories of Papua New Guinea and lots of fond memories of the people I’ve worked with. It’s been a great team effort to get the project over the line. It will be hard to pack up and leave, but it’s time, and Andrew (Barry) will bring a lot of new ideas and energy to the business, which is very positive for ExxonMobil PNG. n

We are on our way, though. We recently signed an MOU for the award of a petroleum development license and associated pipeline licenses for the P’nyang field in order to March – April 2015

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Events

Preparing to make a splash ... the Pacific Games’ Aquatic Centre under construction late last year in Port Moresby.

Pacific Games may change global perceptions of PNG The 2015 Pacific Games is an opportunity to reshape how the world views PNG, according to the CEO of the Games Organising Committee, Peter Stewart. Kevin McQuillan reports.

“A

nyone who thinks the 2015 Pacific Games is just a sporting event is greatly underestimating the scale, scope and potential of this project,” Peter Stewart says. Stewart says the Games could attract more than 4000 visitors, who he wants to return home with stories of how friendly and welcoming PNG is to tourists and businesses. “Word-of-mouth tributes from firsthand experience are far more effective than millions of kina spent on advertising campaigns,” he notes. Stewart says nearly 300 international media personnel will produce stories about PNG in general, as well as reporting on the Games. A total of 28 sports and disciplines will be featured, including athletics, touch rugby, shooting, boxing, basketball, netball, swimming, tennis, hockey, karate, beach volleyball and lawn bowls. Stewart says 1500 hours of broadcast material being produced by the Games Organising Committee for distribution throughout the world across television,

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satellite, cable, internet and digital phone networks will play an important role in changing the perceptions of PNG. As well as local broadcaster EMTV showing the Games, new TV station, Click TV, will also show live and delayed Games coverage throughout the Pacific on its High Definition channel on Intellsat-19.

These major events further enhance the reputation of the nation, while also attracting important overseas investment in the form of hotel beds and restaurants filled.

Stewart says he expects the PGK1.2 billion being spent on the Games and new facilities will allow PNG to attract other major sporting, cultural and business events. “These major events further enhance the reputation of the nation and continue the promotion strategy, while also attracting important overseas investment in the form of hotel beds and restaurants filled, not to mention work for local companies to support these events.” In addition to sporting facilities under construction in Port Moresby—most notably, a new swimming centre and a re-built Sir John Guise Stadium—there are also major infrastructure projects currently under way. These include the Kookaburra Flyover, which will connect Jacksons International Airport to Waigani, a ring-road around the Paga Hill beachfront in Town, and the Games Village at the University of PNG, which will be converted to student accommodation once the Games are over. One of the features of the new Athletes Village will be a free WiFi and internet

strictly business Pacific Games may change global perceptions service to residents during the Games, courtesy of Telikom PNG, a platinum sponsor, and Datec PNG. The Games Organising Committee has secured over PGK30 million through corporate sponsorship to help fund the cost of hosting the Games. BSP is the Official Sponsor, while Platinum Sponsors include Ok Tedi Mining, Telikom PNG, PNG Power, S P Brewery and Puma Energy. Air Niugini is a Gold Sponsor of the Games. “Our target has been to raise PGK60 million,” Stewart said, “and we are just about to reach that because currently the funds we have secured sits at PGK55 million, which is a combination of sponsorship and Government support.”

Peter Stewart ... Games Organising Committee CEO.

“We are on track and are very confident that we will reach our target to deliver these Games successfully.”

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Local company, Makoda Productions Limited, will produce the opening and closing ceremonies, winning the contract ahead of eight other production companies. Makoda has engaged two of the biggest names in international cultural events to lead the core team, executive producer Merryn Hughes and coartistic director Nigel Jamieson. Hughes has worked on six international opening and closing Olympic and sporting ceremonies, including the 2010 Vancouver Winter Olympic Games, and the opening ceremony of the Rugby World Cup in New Zealand in 2011. Jamieson was the artistic director for the Sydney 2000 Olympics and the Manchester

Events

and Melbourne Commonwealth Games. He has a particular interest in working with indigenous cultures and codirected the historic Yeperenye Federation Festival featuring 2000 Aboriginal and Torres Strait performers from 40 language groups, which involved a fourhour television broadcast. The team’s co-artistic director Arileke Ingram has vast experience in traditional Pacific music and co-founded the Wantok Music Foundation, a leading music label in the region. “The opening and closing ceremonies are expected to be a captivating blend of traditional, contemporary and international flavours,” says Emma Waiwai, chairperson of the Games Organising Committee. n

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ports

Port overhaul There are big plans for new dockside facilities at Motukea Island, reports Kevin McQuillan.

ivil engineering firm Curtain Brothers has major plans for Motukea Island, as it prepares to build new dockside facilities alongside the soon-to-be relocated Port Moresby Port. Motukea Island is the Papua New Guinea home of the Curtain Group and activities on the island include shipping, wharfage, ship repair and a range of building and civil engineering activities. One of its larger operations is Papua New Guinea Dockyard, which has been operating since 1999, repairing a wide range of vessels up to 110 metres in length and weighing up to 4000 tonnes.

The company has decided to expand into larger ship repair by building a very large dry dock.

“The vessels are lifted by a wedge car system and when clear of the water are transferred to various holding bays where up to seven 100-metre ships, or multiples of that number in smaller vessels, can be accommodated for repairs,’ says Curtain Brothers general manager, Justin McGann. “The shipyard has also constructed quite a number of new build barges with up to 1000

tonnes capacity. With the shipyard settled into a steady routine, the company has decided to expand into larger ship repair by building a very large dry dock,” he says. “It will be 300 metres length, with a door width of 44 metres, and a sill depth of 10 metres at mid-tide. This facility will be able to accommodate vessels up to some 100,000 DWT capacity. “We’ll have our dry dock for Panamax repairs, and we’ll have our shipyard where we want to build new ships. For example we’d like to build defence force ships for PNG.” The company has almost completed a deal to sell the wharf for about PGK725 million, including the transfer of some 60 hectares of land, to the PNG Ports Corporation (PNGPC). The sale is expected to be completed soon. “After completion of the sale, negotiations are expected to cover the construction of extra facilities to allow PNGPC to move the entire Port Moresby operation of PNG Ports to Motukea,” McGann says.

Expansion plans include building various facilities for port-related operations, including an examination scanning facility already underway for PNG Customs. In the capital, Curtain Brothers is developing Harbour City, and a number of commercial and residential buildings, with plans for more. It is also involved in building a venue and facilities for the 2015 Pacific Games. “We’re currently building the 20,000-seat Sir Hubert Murray Stadium, in downtown Port Moresby. We’re also linking Ela Beach around Paga Hill back into the esplanade via a four-lane road.” Curtain Bros was involved in helping develop the now government-owned gold and copper Ok Tedi Mine in the mid-1980s. These days, its involvement in Ok Tedi is limited to pit services work and maintaining the main road between Kiunga and Tabubil. “We’re also doing the Kiunga sewerage project and we’re building a road from Aiambak to Lake Murray in the Western March – April 2015

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strictly business Port overhaul Province, to the east of the Fly River,” McGann says. “That is an interesting project because there’s no gravel in the Western Province, so we have to ship gravel in from Port Moresby, up into Aiambak, and then cart it to build the road,’ says McGann. “We’re also building a pilot road from Lake Murray to Kiunga to come in on the south side of Kiunga to try and drought-proof the towns and mining operations of Kiunga and Tabubil for the periods when the river levels go low and ships can’t come up. When the river goes dry, which happened in ’97, the mine shuts down, so they can’t afford to get into that situation.

“Another interesting project we are working on is a pilot track from near Tabubil to Telefomin in the Sanduan Province. This will be a challenge as the route will have to cross the ‘Hindenberg Wall’ of the mountain range of the same name.” As well as the Ok Tedi mine, Curtain Brothers has been involved with developing most of PNG’s major mines – Lihir, Porgera, Misima and Tolukuma. It also has its eyes on the Frieda River gold-copper project, located on the border of the Sandaun and East Sepik provinces. n

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ports

At the helm … Curtain Brothers general manager Justin McGann. Among many plans, the company hopes to build defence force ships for PNG.

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Financial Services

PNG’s Kina growing and diversifying From small beginnings, the Kina Group has developed into a financial powerhouse. Kevin McQuillan reports.

ince it started as Kina Securities, a small funds administrator and stockbroker, about 17 years ago, the Kina Group has grown into a model diversified financial services group in Papua New Guinea.

Today, Kina is also a funds manager with over PGK4.7 billion funds under management, a finance company, mortgage lender, insurance provider and co-founder and shareholder in PNG’s bourse, the Port Moresby Stock Exchange.

With over PGK340 million in assets, an annual turnover of PGK66 million and over 200 staff, Kina’s chief executive officer, Syd Yates, looks back with some satisfaction. “From seven staff with two computers in 1996/97, we’ve come a long way,” Yates says. “We’ve built Kina with a strong foundation of best-practice governance and systems and controls. We now have two banking and financial institution licences, two licences under the Superannuation Act, a Trustee Licence, and we’re also member of the Port Moresby Stock Exchange. “We’ve also developed a strong track record of returns in that time, and proven products and services for our customers.” The growth of the Kina Group has mirrored the emergence of PNG’s economy, which itself has more than doubled in the past eight years and is expected to grow by more than 8 per cent this year. As more Papua New Guineans have entered the formal economy, so demand for vehicles, white goods, payment systems, savings accounts, small business loans, investments and home ownership has grown. Generally regarded as well regulated by the Bank of Papua New Guinea, PNG’s financial services sector has grown steadily to meet demand.

Kina’s CEO Syd Yates … “We can turn customers’ loans around in two hours. That’s best practice. That’s better than most places in Australia, and this is done by everyday Papua New Guineans.”

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strictly business PNG’s Kina growing and diversifying Yates says the strength of the company is in its diversity: several businesses servicing different parts of the market, supported by a common back office. “We are the funds manager for superannuation fund Nambawan Super. They started off with around PGK720 million of funds, and today their fund is worth about PGK4.2 billion. We’ve been supporting them in the growth of its investments and helping to secure the financial future of its members. “But that’s just on our funds management side. On our finance side, we’ve developed products to help Papua New Guineans own their first house, to be able to get school fees to send their kids to

school, to buy a car and so on.” One of Kina Finance’s successful products has been EsiLoan, while the group has recently launched its own insurance product, underwritten by Tower Insurance. “In the first month, we wrote 300 policies, which is pretty good for housing in PNG,” says Yates. In 2007, Kina set up Kina Asset Management Limited (KAML), PNG’s only listed investment company, which now has an investment portfolio worth PGK48.6 million. KAML’s most recent results – a year-to-date return of 17.5 per cent for the third quarter of this year – suggest it was an astute move.

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Financial Services

“Over 3000 Papua New Guinean shareholders now have the opportunity not only just to own shares on the PNG market, but also shares on the Australian and overseas markets,” says Yates. In addition to being quick to market with new products and services, Yates thinks one of Kina’s strengths is its ability to be responsive. “Young Papua New Guineans want what everyone else wants. They want a nice house, they want to go on holidays, they want to have investment portfolios, and we’ve been able to help them with that. “For instance, if our clients have an EsiLoan Cashcard, which we launched this year, we can turn customers’ loans around in two hours. That’s best practice. That’s better than most places in Australia, and this is done by everyday Papua New Guineans. “We want to meet our customers’ expectations, and that’s what we try to do.” With a growing middle class and youthful population, Yates sees the future for financial services in Papua New Guinea as strong. “Young Papua New Guineans want what everyone else wants. They want a nice house, they want to go on holidays, they want to have investment portfolios, and we’ve been able to help them with that. “We’ve seen some young people who have two, three houses now, and have also moved on to develop a small investment portfolio. To me, that’s the greatest thing.” n

Young Papua New Guineans want what everyone else wants. They want a nice house, they want to go on holidays, they want to have investment portfolios, and we’ve been able to help them with that.

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entrepreneur

A PNG businesswoman with the right solutions Kevin McQuillan speaks to HR expert Linda Paru who has become one of PNG’s most successful business women.

fter 22 years of climbing the corporate ladder, Linda Paru found the urge to run her own successful business. The desire was so strong, that she says she just “went for it”. That was in 2010 when she created HR Business Solutions. “I owned it by myself until about 18 months ago when I had to bring in business partners, mainly for expansion and to get a greater share of the market place in infrastructure and asset building,” she says. “When I first started, I had about six employees. Our first contract was with Telikom PNG.” Within a few months, the company had grown to 11 staff. “From there we really grew and by 2012 we had many challenges, and I realised that as a woman owning a business, I needed to have more ammunition, more exposure, and so what I thought about was combining technology and communications – and that is how my current business partners came onto the scene.”

So she sought out business partners with expertise in communications and technology engineering. The company now has 22 staff and is located on Champion Parade. The eldest of five siblings, Paru was born in Cape Rodney in Central Province. Her first job in human resources was with the PNG Banking Corporation. She majored in psychology at the University of PNG, before going to Sydney University, where she graduated in 2004 with a Masters in International Business and Human Resources. “One of the reasons I did international business was I was very enthusiastic about being a HR manager that operated across boundaries within the Asia Pacific region. “When I was studying international business I realised Asia was the next big developing world.” When the global food company Cargill was coming into PNG, she called the head of the recruitment agency and said she would move to provincial PNG to get the experience, even if it meant a pay cut.

“So I went firstly to Milne Bay. I became the HR manager, then the group HR manager, with the head office based in Singapore, working and travelling throughout the three plantations within PNG and Asia. “I enjoyed it so much. I travelled to China, Thailand, Singapore, Malaysia, and PNG – it was amazing and put me about five years ahead of PNG in the HR field.” In early 2009, the ANZ Bank recruited her as head of its HR Division, north-west Pacific region, responsible for PNG, Solomon Islands and Timor. And 18 months later, her own company came into being. “I truly believe being resilient, determined, innovative and passionate are the keys to success, but these alone are not enough,” she says. “You also must network and most importantly listen to your clients and provide what is required and needed at the right price; be professional and always present facts, and build relationships and encourage ideas from your team. March – April 2015

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strictly business A PNG businesswoman with the right solutions “I always acknowledge the team around me for my success. Without a great team I am not sure I would have achieved my goals and aspirations.” Is it any different for women than men in order to be successful in PNG? She says it’s all about having the right advice, access to start-up finance and being innovative and determined. She says that those ingredients will produce successful business people. “Whether it’s women, or men, doesn’t matter.” Her clients include the Internal Revenue Commission, National Airport Corporation, Newcrest Mining Limited and NAQIA. She’s also proud of her two boys who she raised by herself, aged 21 and 14. “They travelled with me extensively throughout Asia.” Paru and partners’ HR Business Solutions carries out standard HR activities of recruitment, outplacement, payroll and

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logistics administration, training and arranging visas and work permits. “Recruitment is only one of the many products that we have. One of our biggest services is HR & payroll audits,” she says.

I truly believe being resilient, determined, innovative and passionate are the keys to success.

“We are one of the few companies, like Price Waterhouse and Deloitte, which do human resource practices and payroll audits.

entrepreneur

“Some of the things we audit are employee communications. We ask, for example, is the employer regularly communicating with the people; how do they do their record keeping; accuracy of time keeping for payroll; the benefits and health insurance they have for their people; leave compliance; do they have job descriptions and are they set down correctly in line with labour laws; how are they hiring; turnover, disciplinary procedures, internships. What is their performance management process?” Meanwhile, Paru is working with a gender expert on a joint ABD-DFAT project proposal that aims to provide mentoring for about 40 women, working closely with the Business Coalition for Women. Paru is also involved with the PNG APEC Secretariat as the executive director for PNG Focus on APEC Women’s Economic Empowerment, representing private sector women entrepreneurs. n

Brain gym quiz, puzzles, crossword

DoubleTake Tackle either set of these clues – you can even mix and match them, because the solutions are the same for both sets

CRYPTIC CLUES Across 1. Beau managed to reheat stew (10) 6. The primary reason for betrayal? (7) 7. Rocky Mountain state sees every other wild fashion (5) 9. Name of girl caught in wire netting (5) 10. Nag till you sound hoarse (5) 11. Bring some buffet chips (5) 12. Return to power in shire election (2-5) 13. Presence at ten. Dance afterwards (10)

Down 1. Lawyers who drum up custom? (10) 2. He is keen for people to visit his homes (6,5) 3. Instructed by short Pharaoh or short editor (7) 4. Pause before speech to get facelift (11) 5. Who lent hoe around generally? (2,3,5) 8. Feds hit out when moved (7)

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Red Herrings Fill in the gaps with letters to find the names of eight sea creatures. Only eight? Yes, two of the examples are red herrings and won’t produce anything but frustration. All the answers have eight letters.

STRAIGHT CLUES

For solutions, see page 133.

Across 1. Darling (10) 6. Crime against country (7) 7. Potato variety (5) 026... Cara (5) 9. Red Fame Herrings singer/dancer, © Lovatts Puzzles 10. Mare or stallion (5) 11. Retrieve (5) SOLUTION: 12. Vote in again (2-5) RED HERRING, mackerel, crayfish, sturgeon, RED 13. Size of audience (10) HERRING, pilchard, barnacle, flounder, porpoise, flathead. Down 1. Legal advisors (10) 2. House seller (6,5) 3. Privately taught (7) 4. Reinstatement (of monarchy) (11) 5. As a rule (2,3,5) 8. Off-loaded (7)

brain gym

The Paradise Quiz

puzzles

Sudoku

HOW WELL DO YOU KNOW THE REGION? 1. Does it snow in Papua New Guinea? 2. Where would you be if you are standing at the corner of Douglas and Musgrave streets? 3. What did Sir William MacGregor do in 1888? 4. Why will Indonesians celebrate a holiday on June 2? 5. What is the capital of Timor-Leste? 6. In which country is the kyat the national currency? 7. Who is the Prime Minister of Japan? 8. What’s is the base ingredient of the famous Singapore Sling cocktail? 9. Chicken and duck embryos straight out of the shell are considered a delicacy in which country? 10. How many countries are there in Asia? 11. Which are the three biggest countries in Asia? 12. If you are wearing a sulu, what do you have on? 13. Which ocean translates from its Latin origin to mean “peaceful”? 14. What happened on the Montevideo Maru? 15. How many PNG Prime Ministers have there been since independence in 1975?

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For solutions, see page 33.

brain gym

solutions

Solutions

Red Herrings

SOLUTION: RED HERRING, mackerel, crayfish, sturgeon, RED HERRING, pilchard, barnacle, flounder, porpoise, flathead.

The Paradise Quiz 1. Yes, it is one of the few regions near the Equator to get snow, with falls occasionally experienced in the Highlands. 2. Port Moresby. 3. He climbed PNG’s Mount Victoria (4038 metres). 4. It’s Hari Raya Waisak Day (Buddha’s birthday). 5. Dili. 6. Myanmar. 7. Shinzo Abe. 8. Gin (usually accompanied with cherry brandy, Cointreau, Benedictine, pineapple juice, lime and bitters). 9. In the Philippines, where the embryo is soft boiled. The popular street-food dish is called balut. 10. 48. Two of those countries, Russia and Turkey, also have part of their land in Europe. 11. Russia, China, India. 12. A skirt. It’s a traditional garment worn by men and women in Fiji. 13. Pacific. 14. The Japanese transport ship was sunk by the US in 1942 after leaving Rabaul, resulting in the drowning of 1053 Australian POWs locked below deck. 15. 7.

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Arrivals Lounge Papua New Guinea visitor guide

Out and about

A quick guide to Papua New Guinea, from catching a taxi to making a phone call. CLIMATE With the exception of the Highlands, PNG has a warm tropical climate. The wet season in Port Moresby is from December to April.

COMMUNICATIONS Internet: Web access in Port Moresby has improved immensely in recent years. Although it remains costly, all the Port Moresby hotels listed in this guide provide a fast-speed internet service. In other urban centres, you may still be relying on dial-up. For those staying longer, wireless internet, via a USB modem is available, although download speeds can vary. Phone: International mobile phone roaming is possible in PNG but it is costly. A cheaper option is to buy a local SIM card and prepaid credit (including data packs for smartphones). It is much cheaper to make international calls from PNG than vice versa.

ELECTRICITY The current in PNG is 240V AC 50Hz, using Australian-style plugs.

GETTING AROUND PICTURES: PNG TOURISM

As a general rule in PNG, you need to plan your travel carefully.

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Taxis: Recommended firms are Comfort (325 3046) and Scarlet (7220 7000). Car hire: Deal with one of the international names and

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ask them to provide a driver (around PGK400 per day). With the poor state of roads, especially in Lae, 4WDs/SUVs are recommended. Airport transfers: For arrival/ departure in Port Moresby, any of the hotels listed in this guide will provide a complimentary transfer. Domestic flights: Travelling within PNG often means taking an internal flight (for instance, you cannot drive between Port Moresby and Lae). Air Niugini offers passengers the chance to book (and check in) online but make sure you print out a copy of your receipt to show at the check-in counter. Aircraft and helicopter charter

Visitor GUIDE

services are available for travel to remote locations.

Moresby, Lae and other urban centres.

HEALTH

SAFETY

Serious medical conditions typically require treatment outside the country. Travellers should ensure they have adequate health cover (the cost of medical evacuation alone can reach US$30,000). Visitors should also note that malaria is prevalent in PNG and there have been cases of measles and tuberculosis in some parts of the country.

While the situation is not as bad as portrayed by some international media, you should always take precautions, especially at night.

MONEY PNG’s currency is the kina (PGK). ANZ and Bank of South Pacific (BSP) have branches at Port Moresby’s international airport. ATMs are located around Port

TIME ZONE PNG has a single time zone, 10 hours ahead of UTC/GMT.

EATING, DRINKING, SOCIALISING IN PORT MORESBY Airways Hotel: Port Moresby’s ritziest hotel has several places to eat. If you’re after fine dining, Bacchus is the place to go. For something more casual, go

poolside, where Deli KC’s serves antipasto, salads, sandwiches, milkshakes, espresso and a limited Italian menu for dinner. The Poolside Bar should not be missed for its garlic prawns. The Vue Restaurant, which has a buffet each morning and evening, as well as an a la carte menu, has stunning views. This is also the place for traditional rectangular wood-fired Italian pizza. See airways.com.pg. Aviat Club: The club is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Home-style meals include stirfries, toasted sandwiches and salt-and-pepper prawns. The burgers and the fish and chips are spectacular. This is a great ➤

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spot to sit at lunchtime under the shady mango trees, or in the air-conditioned bar. See avita.com.pg. Cafe on the Edge: There are good hamburgers here and breakfast options such as eggs benedict, avocado, and the best crispy bacon. The servings are generous. It is one of the few cafes in town that opens early; you can grab your first cuppa from 6.45am. Located under the residential buildings on the new Harbour City development, down behind the ANZ and BSP bank. See facebook.com/CafeOnTheEdge. Crowne Plaza Hotel: There are multiple eating options at Crowne. The in-house restaurant includes a buffet for breakfast (eggs cooked to order), as well as lunch and dinner. It’s one of the few restaurants in Port Moresby with gluten-free

choices. The hotel also has fine dining at the Rapala restaurant, where the steaks and garlic prawns are impressive. Oldfashioned crepes suzette makes an appearance here, too, and is cooked at your table. Daikoku: The extensive Japanese menu has teppanyaki, donburi bowls and a large range of sushi. Tucked away above the SVS shopping centre in Harbour City, chefs will whip up your meal at your table. The teppanyaki menu includes several courses, so come with an empty stomach. See ourportmoresby.co/things-todo/archives/daikoku. Duffy Cafe, Gabaka Street: This has rapidly become popular among the expat community, with excellent coffee and homemade cafe-style food. See facebook.com/duffypng.

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Visitor GUIDE

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Dynasty at Vision City: This may be the biggest restaurant in Port Moresby. Its size, its chandeliers and its gold decor make it a favourite for balls, dinners and parties. The menu is huge, too, with pages of Asian dishes. Don’t miss yum cha on Sunday mornings. See ourportmoresby.co/things-todo/archives/dynasty. Fusion: This is one of the newer restaurants in the city and always seems to be doing great business. It’s Asian with a fusion of flavours from China, Thailand and Vietnam. Takeaway available. See facebook.com/fusionbistropom. Grand Papuan Brasserie: The funky Grand Papua Hotel bar serves up cocktails and has a decent wine list, along with

Visitor GUIDE

some tasty tapas-style bar food. Grab a seat in one of the huge, black leather chairs or head to the Brasserie, which has a nightly buffet. The a la carte menu is good and the steaks are delicious. See grandpapuahotel.com.pg.

Seoul House: This restaurant specialises in Korean and Thai food, cooked on the hot plate right in front of you. Kimchi and other traditional Seoul House is tucked away in a garden oasis compound in Five Mile. Tel +675 325 2231.

Lamana Hotel: The hotel’s restaurant has a daily soup and salad buffet lunch, with your choice of main and a drink. There is an Indian buffet night on Thursdays. See lamanahotel.com.pg.

Tasty Bites: This is the newest restaurant in Port Moresby, serving Indian and tucked away in the town centre in Hunter Street near Crowne Plaza. You won’t get a table unless you book. Tel + 675 321 2222.

Royal Papua Yacht Club: Relaxed, spacious and open to non-members. Comfort food, draught beer and an open-plan bar area showing sport on large screens. If it’s too busy, try the Aviat Club in nearby Konedobu. See rpyc.com.pg.

Vision City: PNG’s first major shopping mall houses an increasing array of eateries. The cavernous Dynasty (Chinese) and the Ten (Japanese) are stand-outs. See ourportmoresby.co/things-todo/archives/dynasty.

HOTELS Airways Hotel PNG’s only top-tier hotel, Airways is located within a large, secure compound next to Jacksons International Airport. An inspiring setting, luxurious rooms and excellent service. See airways.com.pg. Crowne Plaza Upmarket rooms and suites in the heart of the CBD. Decent gym, business centre, undercover parking, thriving café and Mediterranean restaurant. Tel +675 309 3329. Ela Beach Hotel and Apartments On the fringe of the CDB, this constantly expanding hotel/ apartment complex is part of ➤

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the Coral Sea Hotels group. Its main eatery is popular at lunchtime. See coralseahotels.com.pg. Gateway Hotel Another member of Coral Sea Hotels, this time located next to the airport. A range of amenities include Port Moresby’s largest dedicated meeting space. See coralseahotels.com.pg. Grand Papua Port Moresby’s newest large hotel opened in late 2011. The hotel features 156 suite rooms (short and long stay), an executive floor, gym and conference facilities. The separate restaurant and bar areas are popular venues for business meetings in town. See grandpapuahotel.com.pg.

Visitor GUIDE

Holiday Inn Located in the government district of Waigani. Large grounds with walking track, in a tropical garden setting. Outdoor restaurant dining and bar area, business centre and gym. Tel +675 303 2000. Laguna hotel The Laguna is the latest hotel to open in Port Moresby, providing high-end facilities. The 60-room property is a five-minute drive from the heart of Port Moresby and features a lagoon-style pool, free airport transfers, free WiFi and free buffet breakfast. Tel +675 323 9333. Lamana Hotel Also in Waigani, this modern hotel’s facilities include the popular Palazzo restaurant (steaks, pizzas

and Indian cuisine), business centre, conference facilities and fashionable nightspot, the Gold Club. Tel +675 323 2333.

LAE In PNG’s industrial hub of Lae, the Lae International Hotel has a secure, central location, pleasant grounds, cable TV and several dining options. Tel +675 472 2000, see laeinterhotel.com.pg. The smaller Lae City Hotel has quickly established a good name since opening in 2013, but be

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sure to make a reservation well in advance, laecityhotel.com. Finally the Melanesian Hotel, part of the Coral Sea Hotels group, also provides business-standard hotels in several other urban centres.

HELPFUL WEBSITES Air Niugini, airniugini.com.pg PNG Tourism Promotion Authority, papunewguinea.travel Port Moresby Chamber of Commerce and Industry, pomcci.org.pg n

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Talking PIDGIN The number of languages listed for Papua New Guinea is about 850, but Tok Pisin (pidgin) is the most used, and perhaps the most charming. Along with Hori Motu and English, Tok Pisin is one of the three official national languages. It is an English-based creole language and there are variations of it throughout the country. To get the idea, here are some common words and phrases:

Good morning, monin Good afternoon, apinun Thank you, tenkiu Yes, yes No, nogat Hospital, haus sik Bank, haus mani Toilet/bathroom (small house), smol haus Food, or to eat, kai kai Meal time, taim bilong kai kai What is your name? Wanem nem bilong yu? I do not like it, mi no laikim Rifle, bigfella iron walking stick him go back along topside

Visitor GUIDE

Person who speaks nonsense, emti tin Football, kikbal Jet plane, smok balus (smoke bird) Angry, kros Baby, pikinini I love you, mi laikim yu tru Really, tru Moustache, maus gras Fish, pis Ocean, solwara (salt water) Man with two wives, sikispela lek (six legs) Lying down, slip Journey, wokabaut

Cinema, haus piksa Useless, nogut 4WD, fowil draiv Hairdresser, man i save katim gras bilong het Make clear or explain, klirim Your, bilong yu Reef, rip Parents, papamama Coffee, kopi Taxi, taksi Bedroom, rum slip Sugarcane, stik suga Out of money, poket bruk

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