FREE take one
SPRING SUMMER 2013
Georgetown, D.C.
Through the Instagram lens of store manager Kara Perry @GoAskKara
Spring/Summer 2013
Welcome
Editor’s Note
to the 2013 Spring Summer Issue of the Buffalo Exchange ‘Zine. For this issue I’ve decided to discuss the changing of the seasons. In particular, what happens each spring when I look at my wardrobe. I like to call it Wardrobe Reality. The very first thing that happens during Wardrobe Reality is that I sort through what I didn’t wear all winter. This might sound boring, right? The reason I do this is twofold:
1) I want to be honest with myself about what I was and wasn’t wearing all winter, and 2) I gain a lot more space in my closet! If I bag up all the things I kept for the entire winter but didn’t wear, I can SELL them at Buffalo Exchange.
Did you know that we often buy out of season? So, now that I have cleaned out a bit, I have a sound assessment of what I like right now, what is missing from my wardrobe, and often a rediscovery of a forgotten item that I can’t wait to wear. See, Wardrobe Reality has already been worthwhile! Almost always, once I’ve sold at Buffalo Exchange, I also stay to shop. As any good Buffalo customer knows, you get more in trade when you sell to us, and there’s always treasure to be found on the racks.
Rebecca Block, Vice President, Buffalo Exchange
There are also some fun treasures in this issue including super easy summer cocktails, an on-trend DIY, and lots of fashion inspiration. Enjoy!
Zine Team: Rebecca Block, Joe Carrel, Kurtis Durfey, Inara Edrington, Gneiss Hobbs, and Stephanie Lew Publishing: Arizona Lithographers and Western Web Graphics Contributors: Lilly Wild, Raaz Taghipour, Naaz Taghipour, Caren & Mark Wooden, Jennifer Durre, Jordan Kroll, Julie Elliott, Mo Dearing, Josiah Earle, Jon Miller, Savannah Lewis, Kyle Landry, and Joe Carrel Photographers: Stephanie Lew, Greg Shappell, Michael Hallsenius, Louise Watson, Mike Harrington, Mila Reynaud, Viva Las Vegas photographer, and Kara Perry Illustrator: Joe Carrel Special thanks to the Buffalo Exchange Archives and to all of the stores that contributed
please recycle
Naaz
We started blogging in college and needed to be able to shop weekly and stay up-to-date with current trends, but that doesn’t always work with a small budget; then we found Buffalo Exchange and it changed our wardrobe completely. We were able to buy high end to fun vintage pieces without going over our budget. The best part was that once we were done, we were able to resell our clothes and keep the cycle going.
their blog
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Our favorite trends for Spring 2013 are lace, color blocking, bold prints, and voluminous silhouettes. Spring is one of our favorites seasons because we both love floral prints and dressing in bold colors.
Raaz
naazandraaz.wordpress.com
Long Beach twin bloggers show off their favorite spring trends
Vive la Breton
Photography by Greg Shappell Written By Jon Miller
The Breton striped shirt was first introduced
as a part of the wardrobe of French sailors in 1858. The original shirts featured 21 stripes to symbolize each of Napoleon’s victories. Though the shirt began as part of a uniform, its influence on casual clothing grew, and in 1889 Saint James began producing the shirts for sale to non-sailors.
Models: Kelly Devoto & Nick Leopold Buffalo Exchange Santa Monica & Boston (Somerville)
In
1917 Chanel clearly referenced the French Sailor look that started 60 years prior. In addition to the Breton stripe shirt, she also referenced the high waist French sailor pants. This look was quite shocking for the time. Though pants for women were being slowly introduced into fashion, most were voluminous and airy, such as the harem pants introduced by Paul Poiret earlier in the century. Chanel’s structured pants were very menswear inspired and not specifically feminine at all. The French Sailor look, namely the Breton stripe shirt, found prominence in the beatnik community in the 1950s and 1960s. Saint James continues to produce the Breton stripe shirts they are famous for, relatively unchanged. Many other brands are also producing looks inspired by the 1858 style, but adapt them to include additional modern trends. This classic style is always relevant and we are enjoying it once again this season.
Fun Fact: Jean Seberg popularized
the Breton stripe in the original 1960 French film Breathless, also starring Jean-Paul Belmondo.
Customer Spotlight Caren Who are your favorite fashion icons? Michele Lamy and stylist Catherine Baba How do you describe your fashion style? Tomboy street chic and a hint of ethnic bohemia What do you predict will be your Spring/ Summer must have items this year? Neon-pink denim boyfriend pants and a wallpaper print shirt What’s your favorite fashion advice? A quote from Catherine Baba: “I truly believe that style has no price. Spending less makes creativity blossom.” Interesting fact (or two) about Caren: Picking up a dead bee in Greece, the stinger plunged in. About 10 days later the arthritis in my wrist was gone. I’d like to live in London -- for two years.
Meet married artists
Caren and Mark Wooden. Caren started shopping at Buffalo Exchange in 2004 and convinced Mark to join her about three years ago. They've shopped at stores in New Orleans, San Francisco, Seattle, and in Albuquerque, where they currently reside.
Mark Who are your favorite fashion icons? Jason Statham, Patrick Petitjean (model), Johnny Depp, artist Francesco Clemente, and Yul Brynner How do you describe your fashion style? Incomplete. Clothing as lucky talismans... a record of the past and a map of where I might end up. Serendipitous mistakes – love ’em. What do you predict will be your Spring/ Summer must have item this year? A 1960’s British rock-n-roll suit What’s your favorite fashion advice? Throw it all out every 7 years (but keep a few treasures in the trunk) Interesting fact (or two) about Mark: My shaved head was an accident. The clipper attachment inadvertently fell off, leaving a strip of bare scalp. Impatient with the state of men’s jewelry, I make my own.
Tempe, AZ Buffalo employee Joe Carrel
Blasts �
During World War II, many factories, fearing industrial sabotage, had their employees wear photo I.D. pins. There’s a cool, mugshot feel to them. I gravitate to the ones with interesting faces - like I’m assembling characters for a story I have yet to write.
(actual size)
Portland, OR Buffalo manager Mo Dearing
Once, while looking at a $5 bill, I noticed that Abraham Lincoln and I have the same hair pattern. Strangely enough, that led to research that led to a collection (some of my books are over 100 years old). Everyone needs a hero, and honest Abe is great one to have.
I designed it & my brother made it
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painted masking tape!
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ďż˝ Past
Retro
Redo
Written by Lilly Wild
As a buffalo employee, avid thrift-shopper, and lover of clothes in general, I find it can be helpful to not only see garments as they are, but what they can become. Having some basic skills in altering clothes really opens up my wardrobe creatively while encouraging me to be bold and adventuresome. There are three basic tricks to altering that have never failed me.
1. Removing the Sleeves.
Although Retro and vintage items are always a welcome addition to my closet, certain elements of each era can hinder the true potential of the garment.
• Following the natural
seam of the sleeve, carefully cut the arms of the sleeves off. • Pin the leftover hem underneath, hiding the stitching. • Keep the fabric even, then stitch around the new sleeve. Voila! Sleeveless dress!
2. Separating the Garment This works especially well with jumpsuits and rompers, or dresses that have a band or seam at the waist. • Following the waistband of the skirt, cut the top off. • Because this skirt already had a hem, I didn’t need to re-sew the waistband. • The top can also now be worn as a bra-let or cropped tank top!
3. Hemming
The bread and butter of my alteration skills, creating a new hemline is perhaps the easiest and most effective way to completely change a garment. • Measure where you'd like the new hem to be, lay the dress flat and fold the bottom up to create the new hemline. • Measure the hem to make sure it was even all the way around and pin it in place. • Then stitch around the new hem, leaving about a half an inch of extra room from the bottom. • Finally carefully cut around the new hem and removed the excess fabric from the dress. Remember to look for potential and character in clothes that
aren’t yet perfect for you, and most of all, have fun!
Ease of Summer
Photography By Stephanie Lew Stylist: Jennifer Durre & Jordan Kroll Models: Tiffany Desirai & Ronnie Williams
Clothing provided by
Buffalo Exchange Austin
� Past Inside My Closet Mo Dearing
Buffalo Exchange Manager Hawthorne Store - Portland, OR
T hough it’s easy to wind up with way too many
clothes, recently I’ve been narrowing my focus to things that I’ll be able to wear for years to come. I tend toward classic styles, but always make
sure there’s some fun and wacky pieces mixed in.
vintage tees here
Âť See Mo's
By Savannah Lewis
How the Freshest Prince Shaped My Wardrobe Like
any respectable child of the 90s, I grew up learning valuable lessons from my TV set, some more important than others. The Fresh Prince of Bel Air may have been the most influential show for my style. With cut off shorts, flannel shirts, and platform sneakers as far as the eye can see here in Philadelphia, 90s style is back and refusing to disappear. Trade in your Beanie Babies and put down your Tomagatchis while I review the highlights of the most stylish show of the 90s.
Illustrated by Joe Carrel
Neon is always appropriate.
Highlighter colors in every electric shade were a vital part of Will Smithâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wardrobe. I prefer to wear them layered on top of each other so I look like a Lisa Frank unicorn. Bonus: you will never be hit by a car because you can be seen from miles away.
Fresh Prince always wears fresh prints!
Fresh Prince really pioneered the current pattern-mixing trend. What would go better with his signature patterned bomber jacket than a pair of patterned parachute pants? Here in Philly, customers are layering tribal patterns in rainbow colors with their floral patterned pants for a look Will would approve of. The more patterns, the better, to really nail this look.
A hat completes the ensemble.
Snobby, spoiled, and ditzy, Hilary Banks had a wardrobe that teenage girls drooled over. While her cut up to there miniskirts and shoulder padded blazers got her noticed, her over the top, often enormous hats pushed her into 90s style icon. To top off a red plaid skirt suit with a matching plaid hat took a confidence that only Hilary had. I just have one rule when it comes to hats: nothing neutral!
When in doubt,
tie a sweater on it.
Getting ready in the morning I often find myself debating over layers. Carlton helped me solve that problem by tying a sweater around my neck. Now I have free range of motion to pull out my best Tom Jones dance moves. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not unusual to look this fly!
illustration by Joe Carrel
窶電rawn by Joe Carrel
�ep Your Fork, There’s Pie! Portland, Oregon-based Keep Your Fork, There’s Pie have been churning out their own special brand of folkpop-soul-rock since 2006. The playful sensibility of the band’s humorous onstage banter and instrument/vocal swapping makes each show a unique event. And yep, there usually is pie.
MUSIC!
"Homespun"
FREE
Keep Your Fork's
Download on your desktop: https://soundcloud.com/buffalo-exchange
Like them on Facebook to hear about their live shows & visit their Kickstarter page to pitch in towards their next album. Any way you slice it, you’re in for a tasty treat. Photos: Louise Watson Styling: Josiah Earle Clothing: Buffalo Exchange, downtown Portland From Left to Right: James Klatt, Toby Lawrence, Amy Jo Carville, Gage Reeves, Nathan Earle, Denell Fahy-Graham
Photographer: Stephanie Lew | Models: Tori Armour, Maria Chon, Till Gronenberg
Floral continues to trend but it is the botanical and tropical prints really catching our eye this season. Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be scared to have some fun with these lush prints by mixing and matching them together.
Botanical Dreams
Lid Appeal
Snap back and five panel hats are the preferred accessory this season. In bold colors and prints, these hats are an easy way to add some interest and fun to your summer ensembles.
Skater Skirts Been practicing your Triple Axel? The skater skirt is back and breaking the ice this spring. Skater skirts are popping up in a variety of colors and prints this season. Throw one of these flirty skirts on with a simple tank for a casual day look or dress it up a bit with a button down blouse.
1950s, Rockabilly has become a lifestyle that has endured decades, centered upon a subculture dedicated to the fashion and feeling of a bygone era. Everyone has seen Rockabilly kids, with their vintage dresses, Chuck Taylors, and pompadour hairdos, but not everyone really gets the reason people choose the Rockabilly way. It's a connection to a time and place in America that speaks to some deep need in the soul for a simpler pace of life. Of course, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not all about the early 50s. Rockabilly has waxed and waned in popularity, developing over time. Girls may wear June Cleaver dresses, but she certainly never had any tattoos. The styles range from 40s pinup to the cutesy skirts and cardigans of the early 60s. To give us some perspective and share a little insight into Rockabilly, we asked our very own Julie Elliott about how she discovered it and why it fits her so well. Julie manages our San Diego Hillcrest store, and sheâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s been into Rockabilly since the 80s.
Photos courtesy of Viva Las Vegas photographer, Mike Harrington & Mila Reynaud
Though it began as merely a musical genre of the early
Buffalo Exchange: When did you first become interested in vintage? Julie Elliott: My parents grew up in the 1950s and my mom saved all of her great dresses. I used to rummage through boxes of her old clothes. She also sewed and had tons of old Vogue pattern books. It must have imprinted in my brain, because as a teenager I got into thrift shopping and was really drawn to items from the 50s and early 60s. I became more comfortable in clothing from the 40s and 50s as I got older. BE: When did you first become interested in Rockabilly? JE: The music was always played in my house when I was growing up. Later I found that many of the bands that I liked were influenced by 50s rock and roll, and it inspired me to pull out my dad’s old records. Then there was a rockabilly resurgence in the early 80s with bands like Levi and the Rockats, the Blasters, the Stray Cats, and one of my favorite bands of all time, the Cramps. BE: How would you describe the Rockabilly look? JE: There are many looks; classic 50s, 40s pinup, western styles, British Teddy Boys, as well as the basic cuffed jeans and Chuck Taylors. The connection is the 1950’s style, but people interpret it in a variety of different ways. BE: What is a key fashion item that is a must to pull off the Rockabilly look? JE: I feel that accessories, hair, and make-up are really important to complete the look. I think a fitted cardigan sweater is a must. BE: Who are your fashion icons? JE: Exene Cervenka from the band X, Rita Hayworth, Veronica Lake, and Audrey Hepburn. If you have any doubt that Rockabilly is alive and kicking, just think about Viva Las Vegas. Viva is a massive celebration of all things Rockabilly held annually in Las Vegas. There’s a ton of great live music, fun activities, vendors selling vintage fashion, records, collectibles, and much more. Of course, there is a huge classic car show full of some of the world’s most amazing custom and restored cars, and Rockabilly enthusiasts walking around in their finest duds.
vivalasvegas.net
» visit
Here are few of Julie’s tips if you decide to go to
Viva Las Vegas • If you love to shop be ready to spend some money. Some of the best vintage vendors in the country come to sell, and many save up all year long for this event. If vintage isn’t your thing, don’t worry. There are other great vendors with vintage repro clothing and shoes, custom jewelry, accessories, records, and other cool collectibles. It gets extremely crowded but the scores are worth it. • Throughout the weekend there are a variety of events that you can check out such as a vintage fashion show, a vintage bathing suit contest, dancing lessons, pin-up beauty classes, a pin-up contest, burlesque lessons, bowling, burlesque bingo, and a really fun Jiving contest on the final night. • If you really want to see a particular band or event, make sure to look at the schedule and plan your day because many times two great bands are playing at the same time. • If you are a vintage fashionista, this is the time to show off your best items. Bring lots of clothing options, daywear, eveningwear, something cool and casual for the car show, and don’t forget your bathing suit for the Tiki pool party. • Suggested off-site excursions are Frankie’s Tiki room, Red Rooster Antique, and of course, the Las Vegas Buffalo Exchange!
History of a small Business (a continuation of the history of Buffalo Exchange from the perspective of its co-founder, Spencer Block, via his daughter)
We
promised in our last issue to catch you up on Buffalo history from the 90s to today. Our flyswatter in hand, the 90s saw us move out of being a small mom and pop business into one that was more professionally run. As Spencer wrote, “This disturbed lots of people including Spencer and Kerstin, who had to learn to operate a bigger company with lots of people and complications.” It meant a lot more desk time for all, which, as you know, is not the FUN part of working in retail. The nineties saw a lot of growth with the opening of more stores in California including the Bay Area, Los Angeles, Sacramento, and San Diego. Additionally, we expanded in other parts of the west with another store in the Phoenix area, one each in Albuquerque, Las Vegas, Austin, Houston, Portland, Eugene, Boise, and Seattle. Aha you say -- you don’t have a store in Boise! So true, and we don’t have a store anymore in Sacramento either. Some cities didn’t take to us the way other cities did. Of course those cities have changed since then, and perhaps we were ahead of our time. Who knows? In the end we decided to love the customers who loved us back. The 90s also saw our small launch into franchising. This started with a former employee in Flagstaff who then moved to Colorado. There are still two franchise stores in existence (one in Boulder, one in Denver) and we love them as our own. They operate the same as all Buffalo Exchange stores, and are a delight to shop in. We no longer franchise, however, because we didn’t want to be in the business of franchising, we wanted to be in the business of selling fashionable clothing. Throughout the first twelve years of the new millennium we’ve continued to expand, branched out to the east coast and Midwest, but on our own terms as a slowly growing company. We work hard to be a company that is careful not to lose its soul in the ever increasing complexities of growth; a company that still remembers it’s past and all the people, employees and customers, who made it what it is. Each store is a true reflection of its community and, while we are now operating 46 stores in 17 states, each one is most definitely unique. And, in case you were wondering, we no longer have flyswatters hanging out behind the cash register. Buffalo Coast to Coast: Long Beach (left) to New York (right)
Super Easy Summer Cocktails courtesy of Kyle Landry, bartender Shady’s Fine Ales & Cocktails, Phoenix
recipes here
» more
How to make Simple Syrup: Standard Practice: combine equal parts sugar and water in a saucepan, bring to a boil and stir until the sugar is dissolved Bartendersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Shortcut: put equal amounts sugar and water into a screw top bottle and shake until sugar is dissolved
Kyleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Signature Drink:
vintage tees here
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