TRAVEL
SINGAPORE fling With Dubai’s bubble well and truly burst, Bel Trew, discovers the new rising star of the East…
1 in MAGAZINE
o far 2011 is panning out like five apocalyptic blockbusters playing at once: the Arab Spring, the Japanese Tsunami, budget-cut riots in London and a potential double-dip recession. Even Dubai, the capitalist playground, is in a debt crisis with a half-empty 828m landmark bailed out by Abu Dhabi. But across this economic wasteland, a rising star is appearing. It is a tiny city-state a fifth of the size of Essex, the birthplace of the eponymous ‘Sling’, the only country in the world to ban chewing gum and the discovery of a smooth-talking Brit called Sir Stamford Raffles. Yes Siree, it’s Singapore.
Arab Quarter
Out of sight of the business districts, Sentosa is home to the world’s tallest dueling rollercoaster, the largest oceanarium, one of the most expensive casino complexes of all time and Universal Studios resort. No effort has been made to conceal its purpose: they launched ‘Resorts World Sentosa’ at precisely 12.18pm, as 1218, in Catonese, sounds like ‘prosperity’. The casino has certainly bought that. Next year Singapore is set to overtake Vegas in gambling revenues.
Despite its size, Singapore is now the fourth most important financial centre in the world, snapping at the heels of London, New York and Hong Kong. Marketing itself as a gateway to Asia, in January Singapore launched a charm offensive at British companies, tempting them with personalised tax packages (the top tax rate is just 12%) and a better quality of life.
Welcome to the beginner’s intro to the East, where the national language is English, the streets are squeaky clean and the skyline bristles with skyscrapers, bars and malls. Small wonders immigration is on the up every year. Singapore didn’t start batting with the big boys until the seventies. It began as a near-empty outpost of the British East India Company after Raffles did a deal with a local Sultan in 1819. Forty five years later it became a British colony and then was surrendered to the Japanese after a speedy defeat in the 2nd World War. 1942- 45 were dark years for Singapore. Under Japanese occupation, between 50 -100,000 Singaporeans were murdered in the Sook Ching Massacre. This abandonment by the colonial ‘masters’ seemed to stun Singapore into political consciousness. The country formed political parties and in 1965, Singapore and its sixty three islands, gained independence under the parental (and pervasive) gaze of first Prime Minister Lee Kuan Yew. Since then the country has prospered exponentially (overtaking the GDP of its former parent Malaysia) and has enjoyed a ‘benign dictatorship’ of PMs. As long as you stay within the law, life is good for the locals. Singapore has learnt key lessons from the disastrous Disneyland of Dubai. The Central Business District or CBD gracefully pushes up against an attractive (if not a bit tame) series of refurbished quays. Manicured gardens and national parks surround the city, with tidy beachfronts along the coasts. Aside from the Marina Bay Sands Casino (three skyscrapers with a one hectare sky park slapped on top) anything garish or silly is tactfully sent to Sentosa, a resort island bursting with superlatives. 2 in MAGAZINE
There has been a notable trend of designer labels shifting their focus to Singapore, Men’s Fashion Week was held here last month. The shopping district, Orchard Road, is like Oxford Street sprinkled with Westfields. This hellish mecca of malls is at least unpretentiously practical. Forget the hushed mews of Mayfair, you’ll find Hermès next door to New Look, with people flitting indiscriminately between the two in flip-flops.
But there is more to Singapore than just happy capitalism. Brushed behind the skyscrapers and malls I found a loveable shabbiness that does justice to the city’s melting pot of ethnicities. Nestling the CBD is Chinatown, where wizened drafts players battle it out next to temples, as Orange clad monks clock off for the afternoon. The Shoreditchites of Singapore hang out in cubbyhole art cafes in the beautifully squat buildings of the Arab Quarter. The air in Little India is thick with durian fruit and jasmine and home to Mustafa’s, a 150,000ft2 crammed shopping institution open 24-hours-a-day. On the East Coast local families camp on the beachfront and watch the never-ending queues of tankers sparkle on the night horizon. For foodies, this is a fusion paradise and it is worth forsaking the glittering hotel restaurants. You can easily get your teeth into world-class Dim Sum, Sushi, Thai and Indian on the cheap but the best place to start is the national dish: Chili Crab. Created by a local couple in the 1950s at the immense East Coast Seafood Centre, the crab in question is usually bigger than your head and cooked whole in a moreish sweet chili gravy. I prefer black pepper crab, a later and competing sauce. Both can be tasted at all the Seafood Centre restaurants, where in MAGAZINE 3
- FOOD customers are given bibs and literally get cracking (Chili Crab S$55 for two). Lunch is a sacred institution in Singapore. In some offices the lights are dimmed and soothing music played at midday to remind people to take a break. Everyone from local housewives to expat businessmen then descend on Hawker Centres. These covered marketplaces house every kind of Asian dish for under a fiver. The best is in Chinatown, where satay is furiously cooked outback on barbeques (S$12 for 20 ‘sticks’). Whereas food is cheap, drinking is not, maybe to keep Singapore’s inhabitants in line? For old time’s sake, one has to toast the empire with a Singapore Sling at its birthplace: Raffles Hotel (S$18). Otherwise, Singaporeby-night has two distinct personalities.
japanese – Aoki Sushi, as recommended by a Japanese expat, this restaurant gives Japan a run for its money. 1 Scotts Road, T: +65 6333 8015 www.lesamis.com.sg
DIM SUM –
(sort of!) – Nanxiang has the best Shanghai dumplings in town. 200 Victoria Street Bugis Junction T: +65 6835 7577 www.nanxiang.com.sg
CHEAP –
Noh Nangkram Southern Thai Restaurant, its no frills but delicious. 743 North Bridge Road T: +65 6392 2172
BRUNCH –
Sunday eating is a Singaporean institution and allyou-can eat oysters and champagne brunch at Brasserie Les Saveurs is a must. St Regis Hotel, 29 Tanglin Road T: +65 6506 6866
FAMILY –
Steam Boat (essentially an Asian fondue) is a fun way to get the kids involved, as you choose what you cook in the savoury broth. Chuan Yi Pin is always packed. North Bridge Road T: +65 6884 4582
- DRINKS CHILL OUT – Ying Yang, a roof top lounge bar. 28 Ann Siang Hill, Nr. Club Street T: +65 6808 2188 www.yingyang.sg
The first is Attica Club and Clarke Quay, where married wankered-bankers try to bed locals (it’s like Canary Wharf on Viagra). The other side is quirky rooftop lounge bars on Club Street and Mambo Jambo nights at Zouk (voted one of the top 20 clubs in the world). Wednesday in Singers is traditionally ladies night: expect free cocktails and comeons. This all said, there is a dark side to this city-state. Woe betide those that dare question the authorities - British Author Alan Shadrake is currently serving a jail sentence for writing a book on Singapore’s executions. It’s difficult to match the different faces of the country. It is a fun-loving hedonistic city whose inhabitants are controlled beyond belief. The government is genuinely unopposed by its people, who, despite capital punishment and no freedom of speech, ‘appear’ happy with their lot. But whatever the oxymoronic government is doing politically, economically it is working. As long as you stay in line it is worth a shot. 4 in MAGAZINE
VIEWS –
1 Altitude al-fresco bar is a head-spinning 63 floors up. 1 Raffles Place, CBD T: +65 6438 0410 Or checkout Chits, for a rare undisturbed view of the sea. 1 Changi Coast Walk, East Coast T: +65 6214 9168
Show off – The Tippling Club, mixologist barmen shake up (overpriced) alcoholic magic tricks. 8d Dempsey Rd, Singapore T: +65 6475 2217 www.tipplingclub.com
AIRPORT –
Find Harry’s Bar at Terminal 1, it’s a rooftop bar with a view of the runway. Changi Airport
- FUN Top 3 Activities: • Wakeboard at Ski360 • • Cycle around Pulau Ubin National Park • • Hang out at the cage-free National Zoo • Selection of images courtesy of the Singapore Tourism Board