| d e s t i n a c e | d e s t i n at i o n | д е с т и н A ц и я
▾ Stavbu a výzdobu baziliky sv. Petra měli postupně na starost geniální umělci Rafael Santi i Michelangelo Buonarroti. — The magnificent interior decoration of St Peter’s Basilica was the work of outstanding artists, first Rafael Santi and later Michelangelo Buonarroti. — Строительством и отделкой базилики св. Петра поочередно занимались гениальные живописцы и архитекторы Рафаэль Санти и Микеланджело.
are tree-lined streets with simple houses from the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries. This area, right next to the Prati and Trionfale districts, is home to dozens of cafes, great restaurants and many little shops. The unique architecture of Italian Fascism of the early 20th century is also surprisingly interesting. Stroll along the Tiber to the grandiose Foro Italico, with its sporting venues and sport-themed art, built to Mussolini’s orders. The marble stadium called Stadio dei Marmi is surrounded by statues of ultra-muscular athletes and there is also a huge mosaic depicting sportsmen and soldiers. Rome does not only live in the past and great new things keep springing up, both in architecture and art… The Maxxi Museum of Contemporary Art designed by the famous architect Zaha Hadid is one such ultramodern gem. Its strange angles, arcs and ramps make it just as fascinating as the art displayed in it.
Rome’s hidden secrets
Head for Piazzale Garibaldi on the hill called Janiculum, where the view of the city is just about the best in Rome, with the entire historical centre spread out in front of you. A pleasant stroll south will take you to a fountain from the 17th century, and a walk down the stairs will take you to the Trastevere neighbourhood, with its winding narrow cobbled streets. Trastevere literally means “across the Tiber”. It used to be a somewhat tatty district, but these days it is perfect for long walks. It has a lovely church, but above all dozens of bistros and family restaurants. What is more, the bars in this district do not close till the morning. Rome is a fantastic place to eat in general, whatever your budget. From small cafes where you can eat well and cheaply, to temples of gastronomy bedecked with Michelin stars. The service everywhere is of an exceptionally high standard, yet the waiters expect no tips. There really is more to Rome than the museums and monuments in Centro Storico and the famous destinations of the Campo de Fiori, Piazza Navona and Tridente district. If you fancy a bit of neorealism, explore San Lorenzo, originally a working class neighbourhood that is now full of trendy boutiques and art workshops. Parioli and the surroundings of Via Veneto are elegance incarnate, but do not expect to shop cheaply here. In the district of Monti, you will be taken back a few decades – as if time had stopped here. Though just a stone’s throw from the overcrowded Roman Forum, it has a completely different atmosphere. Drying laundry flutters from the windows, everyone knows everyone, there are plenty of traditional shops and on the cosy central square Piazza della Madonna dei Monti adorned with a fountain, schoolboys play football and old ladies on benches exchange the latest news. Rome’s many faces
Rome is also full of traditional street markets. Your mouth will water as you walk through them. Here you can find the freshest and tastiest goodies for a pittance, so buy some simple foods and have an impromptu picnic, in the Parco degli Acquedotti, for example. Though not a popular tourist attraction, it is a wonderful place where, in the midst of ruined arches 2000 years old, you can observe modern Romans at play. The best way to get there is by metro, getting off at the Giulio Agricola station. You could also go for a walk to the Aventine hill, where yet another Roman treasure is concealed. On the Piazza Cavalieri di Malta, make sure to take a peek through the keyhole of the headquarters of the Order of the Knights of Malta: you will see a perfectly framed Basilica of St Peter. Another amazing view of the city can be enjoyed from a garden with orange trees that lies just nearby. There is simply always something to discover in Rome, as it is not only an eternal city, but also a city where one would like to stay eternally... 32
▶