FOOD/YOIF CON’T In about 45 minutes, Barrett figured we had tasted 15 to 20 different kinds of apples. Shortly thereafter, Grasser handed Barrett an apple that could clearly play the movie role of lost treasure: a ghostly white, pearlesque apple with an ethereal aroma I could only describe as rose petals and wild strawberries. Its soft, floral taste left me speechless. But this variety of apples wasn’t the only thing that impressed Barrett. “I consider these trees to be genetically superior,” she said. “They’re withstanding so much neglect, harsh conditions, little or no irrigation. And they’re in these isolated little pockets that have never been touched by monoculture or spray or genetically modified plants. They’re really pure and clean and strong.” Barrett and Burns are in the early stages of what they’ve christened the Idaho Heritage Tree Project and are still looking for funding. But historian Williams was enthused enough about the project’s historical and horticultural potential to foot the bill for the jet boat that got us to the Lantz orchard. “It was a good opportunity for us to learn more about the orchard and hopefully get some information in helping us in maintaining it,” said Williams. Other organizations and individuals have expressed interest, too, including the Bureau of Land Management and University of Idaho fruit expert Dr. Esmaeil Fallahi. As Barrett headed back down to the river, she was already thinking about expanding the project. “I think this is a fun spot to come and do research,” she said. “But there are so many trees in people’s back yards and in neighborhoods all over Idaho that are just as important as the trees down here. Hopefully, we can ... get them going on new rootstock so we can have them in back yards and preserve them for the future.” I’ll save that chapter for the movie’s sequel. 40
42 | OCTOBER 26 – NOVEMBER 1, 2011 | BOISEweekly
FOOD/WINE SIPPER
CHIANTI Chianti has come a long way from those squat-bottomed bottles covered with wicker that were best suited for holding candles. Sangiovese is the primary grape in this Italian region, but regulations allow for other varieties in the chianti blend, up to a total of 25 percent. However, all three of the top wines in this tasting are 100 percent sangiovese, including a surprising ringer from our home state. Here are the panel’s favorites: 2007 POGGIO AMORELLI CHIANTI CLASSICO, $18.99 There’s a lightly herbal quality to the nose in this wine that complements the rich cherry and licorice aromas. Round and ripe in the mouth, it’s filled with a mix of cherry liqueur, anise, chocolate and spice. Well-integrated tannins come through on the finish in a wine that’s drinking beautifully now. A good buy on a chianti classico. 2007 SELVAPIANI CHIANTI RUFINA RESERVA, VIGNETO BOCERCHIALE, $30 This wine opens with heady aromas of dusty cherry, berry, anise and a nice hit of white pepper. This is a big, bold wine that reins in the ripeness level just enough so as not to become overwhelming. It’s loaded with bright cherry fruit that’s laced with a touch of strawberry and backed by lively acidity that keeps things in balance. Ripe tannins and black pepper color the persistent finish. 2009 SNAKE RIVER WINERY SANGIOVESE, $19.49 This oh-so-worthy ringer from Idaho earned the top-place vote from every panelist—a first in more than 10 years of tastings. A definite elegance marks this wine, with its soft cherry fruit aromas backed by pepper and spice. Exceptionally well balanced on the palate, it’s filled with creamy cherry and berry fruit, soft oak and smooth tannins. This is an impressive effort, but you’ll have to wait a few days to taste it. The winery has scheduled a Thursday, Nov. 3, release date. —David Kirkpatrick WWW. B O I S E WE E KLY. C O M