Block Island: Close to Home, A World Away

2009

BLOCK ISLAND Close To Home, A World Away

Block Island Tourism Council

Complimentary

Photo by Keith Lang

Welcome To Block Island, Our Home Block Island is a special place. In 1991 The Nature Conservancy named it “one of the last great places in the Western Hemisphere.” With 43 percent of Block Island preserved forever as open space, it is easy to find your own special part of the Island.

There are 17 miles of beaches and many hiking trails that offer up-close experiences with wildlife. The harbors and ponds are unique places to explore on kayaks or boats.

The fall and spring are great times to visit and enjoy the many activities the Island has to offer. During this time the crowds are few, and visitors enjoy a sense of quiet and solitude that leads many to return to Block Island again and again. There are roads lined with stone walls and beautiful scenery for bicyclists; two historic lighthouses to explore; great fishing spots where anglers can watch an amazing sunset over the ocean; trails for hikers and bird-watchers; and miles of beautiful beaches perfect for a quiet walk.

With ferry docks within a short drive for many visitors, you will find that Block Island is a perfect getaway for the day, the weekend, or even longer. Choose to stay at a historic hotel, a quaint inn, a cozy bed-and-breakfast or a unique home for the whole family. Come to experience a relaxed atmosphere and a friendly community.

Over the following pages, you will meet some fellow Islanders, who will introduce you to this unique place that we call home. All of us cordially invite you to visit Block Island. I am confident that your first visit will not be your last.

John Cullen President Block Island Tourism Council www.blockislandinfo.com

When you step onto Block Island you’ll find a place that includes not only rare birds, fantastic beaches and miles of hiking trails, but also a close, caring community.

I grew up here and have witnessed many changes; but one thing that has remained the same all these years is the people. According to our annual unofficial Groundhog Day census, there are 992 year-round residents who live, work and play together.

Just like communities across the country, my neighbors run businesses, send their children to school and offer directions to the passing tourist. But unlike residents of communities elsewhere, these 992 residents wear many, many hats.

It’s not unusual to see the taxi-cab driver who picked you up at the ferry serve you lobster at one of the Island’s many restaurants, or to notice the school bus driver leading a nature walk on the Greenway trails. You’ll find this interdependence creates a sense of community unrivaled anywhere else.

You’ll also find that this community — my neighbors — cares. They deeply care about each other, about the environment around them and about those coming to enjoy this Island. Perhaps that’s why we’re so proud to show off this Island gem to the world.

For while this Island holds a special place in the natural world, it is the people who create its special sense of place.

I encourage you to come visit, meet my neighbors and create your own memories.

Kim Gaffett First Warden Town of New Shoreham Cover photo: The Mohegan Bluffs provide stunning views of the Atlantic Ocean. Photo by Cindy Wilson Close To Home, A World Away 3

The original BLOCK ISLAND Hook Bracelet™ is here!

RECOGNIZED BY LOCALS AND LOYAL VISITORS ALIKE AS THE SYMBOLIC TREASURE OF BLOCK ISLAND! Off the coast of the Northeast mainland lies an island like no other ... an island that promotes a carefree laid-back, flip-flop and shorts atmosphere where not a single palm tree grows! The Block Island Hook Bracelet™ captures the spirit and style of this island and her stunning vistas, diverse ecosystem and deep nautical heritage. The Block Island Southeast Light is forged into a precious metal “B,” which is hooked by an “I” in the likeness of a fouled anchor, with the union of the two symbolizing the hook that Block Island has on the hearts of millions. The distinctive shape of the island adorns the design as well as 10 wraps of 14–karat gold signifying the 10 square miles of enchanting beauty that awaits each and every soul. The Block Island Hook Bracelet™ is a true symbolic treasure that is sure to remind of the days, weeks or lifetime of weeks cherished while in the embrace of Block Island. Wear the memories...and relive them...each time you glance at your wrist.

401-466-2611 Available online @: blockislandgolddiggers.com *a portion of all sales donated to island nonprofits *Listed as “One of 10 Places Not To Miss On Block Island” by New England Tourism Council!

Chapel Street & Weldon’s Way P.O. Box 693, Block Island, RI 02807

Follow The Leader 30 Minute Hi-Speed Ferry to Block Island

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60 Minute Traditional Ferry to Block Island

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www.blockislandferry.com * reservation required for vehicle transportation

4 Close To Home, A World Away

866.783.7996 Departs Daily From Point Judith Seasonal Service From Newport

Largest Fleet Best Schedule Vehicles Welcome * Year Round Service www.blockislandinfo.com

(Photo credits clockwise from top left: John Fuller, Michael Melford, Celeste Sloman, Kristen Langdon Cohen, Michael Melford)

BLOCK ISLAND Special Features Departments Block Island: Close To Home, A World Away is a publication produced jointly by the Block Island Tourism Council and the Block Island Times.

3 Welcome to block

island, our home

Tourism Council President John Cullen and First Warden Kim Gaffett welcome you to Block Island.

7 Block Island Beckons

The Block Island Tourism Council Water Street, Box 356, Block Island, RI 02807 www.blockislandinfo.com President John Cullen Vice President Brad Marthens 2nd Vice President Zena Clark Secretary Ted Merritt Treasurer Martha Ball Members Shirley Kessler, Ed McGovern Executive Director Jessica K. Willi

As one of America’s last great places, Block Island is worth a trip from anywhere.

8 getting here

Making your way to the island is easier than you might think.

9 know the island

Once on-island your time’s your own, but here is some helpful information to help you get around.

22 A Winter Wonderland 34 HIGHLIGHTS FOR 2009

What to do and see.

35 Island Map

The Block Island Times Ocean Avenue, Box 278, Block Island, RI 02807 Phone: (401) 466-2222 Fax: (401) 466-8804 www.blockislandtimes.com Co-publishers Fraser and Betty Lang Associate Publisher Ian Lang Editor Chris Barrett Production SmallHouse Design (c) 2009 Block Island Tourism Council & Block Island Times

SPONSORS: Block Island Beers, Old Harbor Outfitters, The Atlantic Inn, Ballard Hall Real Estate, Block Island Express, Eli’s Restaurant, Golddiggers–Block Island Jewelers, Interstate Navigation

www.blockislandinfo.com

All the island sights you need to see.

36 Block Island accommodations

All the places to rest your head.

37 Block Island Restaurants

Nature 15 A Natural Wonder 16 Nature Highlights 17 Birding takes flight Boating/Fishing 18 Ocean Adventures 20 Boating Information 21 Fishing on Block Island Shopping 23 A Shopper’s Heaven 24 Block Island Shopping Information History 26 A Historic Place 28 Historic Highlights 29 Shipwrecks

Where to eat on your visit.

38 Weddings and

Conferences

BEACHES 10 Block Island Beaches 12 A tour of island Beaches 13 Map of Island Beaches

Beautiful places to get married and gorgeous meeting rooms.

Art 31 Creative Isle 32 Art Information 33 The North Light on tHe Adriatic Close To Home, A World Away 5

Sandy Shores A short walk from the hustle and bustle of downtown, Fred Benson Town Beach is one of the many beaches you’ll discover on Block Island, all of which are free and open to the public.

Photo by Michael Melford 6 Close To Home, A World Away

www.blockislandinfo.com

BLOCK ISLAND BECKONS One of the last great places

Thirteen miles off the coast of Rhode Island, surrounded by 17 miles of pristine beaches and home to a diverse wildlife population, Block Island stands as a paradise for exploration, fun, relaxation and adventure. Whether you’re looking to play in the sand, hike the miles of nature trails or enjoy a fine-dining experience, Block Island is your destination.

This year you don’t have to take an international flight or spend a fortune to get a taste of paradise. For the cost of a ferry ticket, you’ll discover a different world, culture and pace of life.

The Nature Conservancy has called Block Island “one of the last great places in the Western Hemisphere.” And for good reason. Whether you visit in the spring, summer or fall, an island paradise awaits.

Here is a place that moves at its own pace and is known for a relaxed way of life.

Here is where “dressed up” means a pair of shorts. Here is where locals greet each other by name at the post office. And here is where you can shed your whole way of life for a while.

Particularly in the spring and fall, this tight-knit Island is far removed from the hustle and bustle of daily life. It’s a place where you can enjoy a hike, take in a sunset, or build a sand castle. You have the time to finish a novel you always meant to read and take an afternoon nap.

For the more adventurous, catch a wave on one of our many public beaches, or rent a bicycle or moped and discover the hidden corners of the Island. At the end of the day, enjoy a fine meal at one of the Island’s 30 dining establishments, many with views of the Atlantic Ocean.

In the following pages, you’ll meet some of the Island’s nearly 1,000 year-round residents that form this cozy, welcoming community. They’ll tell you about the Island’s natural wonders, sandy beaches, extensive shopping, beautiful art, boating and fishing opportunities and rich history.

That history extends back thousands of www.blockislandinfo.com

years when a melting glacier left rolling hills and ponds behind to form an island like no other. Even centuries ago, people recognized its exceptional characteristics.

For hundreds of years the Narragansett tribe made this home and called it “Manisses,” or “Island of the Little God.” When Florentine explorer Giovanni da Verrazano sighted the Island in 1524 he thought it so beautiful that he named it “Claudia” after the dowager queen of France.

In 1614, Dutch navigator and trader Adrian Block, who is perhaps best known for being the first European to discover Manhattan, mapped the Island and lent his name to the land. In 1636 Massachusetts claimed the Island and sold it to four businessmen in 1658. They, in turn, sold the Island in 1660 to 16 men for 400 pounds. Some of them landed a year later and established a settlement that would join Rhode Island in 1664. Eight years later they would incorporate the Island’s first — and only — town, selecting the name New Shoreham. These colonists would become the first of thousands of visitors drawn to the Block Island experience.

What began as a fishing village soon became the destination both for the rich and famous and for others just looking to get away from it all. Presidents have visited, movie stars have vacationed here, and the Supreme Court once held session at an Island hotel. They have come here for the same reason that many others have traveled to these shores: a desire to step back in time and reconnect with oneself and the natural world.

Today’s modern transportation system makes it easy and affordable to reach the Island via ferry or plane. While thousands of people visit Block Island every year, you’ll find there’s still plenty of space to discover your own special corner of paradise. And no matter if you spend a day, a week or a month you’ll find a true “sense of place” unlike anywhere else in the country, or dare we say, even the world.

Close To Home, A World Away 7

Photo by Michael Melford

GETTING HERE It’s easy to reach Block Island. More than 20 million people are within a four-hour drive of either the ferries or airline that bring visitors to Block Island, and 10 million can reach a ferry or airplane in less than two hours. Ferries leave from Point Judith in Narragansett, Rhode Island; New London, Connecticut and Montauk on the tip of Long Island, New York. Planes leave from Westerly, Rhode Island.

Or you can fly in or sail your own boat.

By Ferry Block Island Ferry provides year-round service from Point Judith, R.I. This is the only ferry that can take vehicles to the Island, and reservations for them are required. Passengers do not need reservations. (304 Great Island Road, Narragansett, R.I.) In the summer months additional service is provided to and from Fort Adams State Park in Newport, R.I. (1 Lincoln Drive, Newport, R.I.) For schedules and more information call (866) 783-7996 or visit www.blockislandferry.com.

Block Island Hi-Speed Ferry is a state-of-the-art highspeed catamaran. This ferry runs from mid-May through midOctober. The ferry departs from the State Pier in Point Judith, R.I. and docks in Old Harbor in 30 minutes. (304 Great Island Road, Narragansett, R.I.) For schedules and more information call (866) 783-7996 or visit www.blockislandferry.com.

8 Close To Home, A World Away

Block Island Express connects New London, Conn. and Old Harbor, Block Island in just over one hour on a high-speed catamaran. The terminal in New London is located next to the Amtrak train station. Parking is available in a municipal garage across the street and at the terminal. This ferry runs May through September. (2 Ferry St., New London, Conn.) For schedules and more information call (860) 444-4624 or visit www.goblockisland.com.

Montauk Ferry runs between the tip of Long Island and Block Island during the summer. The trip takes just under two hours on a high-speed air-conditioned vessel that accommodates passengers, bicycles and surfboards. (462 West Lake Drive, Montauk, N.Y. ) For schedules and more information call (631) 668-5700 or visit www.vikingfleet.com.

By Private Boat

By Private Plane

Many visitors reach Block Island by way of their own boats, docking at the marinas or anchoring in either the Old or New harbors.

Block Island State Airport welcomes private planes. The one-lane runway accommodates prop planes and small jets.

There is no control tower, but pilots should announce themselves on frequency 123.00.

Landing is free for Rhode Island-registered aircraft.

Landing fees for non-Rhode Island registered aircraft range from $15 to $25 depending on the type of aircraft. Overnight outside plane parking is available and is $15 for single-engine planes and $20 for light planes.

For more information check the Airport Facility Directory for the Northeast or call airport manager Landmark Aviation at (401) 466-5511.

By Commuter Plane New England Airlines has provided daily scheduled air service to Block Island since 1970.

Flights depart Westerly, R.I. The airport is located just off Interstate 95 and is an easy drive or train ride from anywhere in New England. (Amtrak serves Westerly with daily trains between Washington/New York and Boston.) Flight time between Westerly and Block Island is 12 minutes. (56 Airport Road, Westerly, R.I.) For schedules and more information call (800) 243-2460 or visit www.blockisland.com/nea.

www.blockislandinfo.com

Photo by Cindy Wilson

KNOW THE ISLAND Once you’re on Block Island here’s what you need to know. The information below will help you get around, engage in a friendly dinner conversation and maybe even sound like a local. When you visit, you’ll quickly learn that Block Island is a community made up of very special people living in a very special place. Nothing beats coming here and experiencing it personally, but below are some of the basics to get you primed before your visit.

Getting Around Walk. The sneaker express is an easy way to enjoy the shops, restaurants and hotels in Old Harbor. A 15-minute walk from the ferry will bring you to the main beach.

Bike. Bicycles are an affordable and enjoyable way to explore the Island. Rental stands offer bikes to fit the needs of the entire family. Or bring your own over on the ferry.

Mopeds. Mopeds can be rented around the Island, and can accommodate one or two passengers. Mopeds may be driven on all paved Island roads, but are not allowed on dirt roads.

Taxi. Taxi service is available Island-wide. A taxi stand is located by the ferry docks in Old Harbor, and taxis regularly wait for customers at New Harbor.

Most can hold parties of five or more and offer Island tours as well as getting you from here to there. www.blockislandinfo.com

Personal Vehicle. Depending on your itinerary, you may or may not require a vehicle while here. In the busy summer months, keeping the number of cars on-Island to a minimum is encouraged. However, the spring and fall provide comparatively empty roads.

The Facts Official Name Town of New Shoreham, incorporated 1672 Area 7 miles long and 3 miles wide, Block Island is shaped like a pork chop and covers 6,000 acres Location 13 miles off the southern coast of Rhode Island Population About 1,000 year round and swells to 15,000 to 20,000 in the summer Ponds 365 freshwater ponds, one for every day of the year Stone walls 300-400 miles of human-made stone walls Nature Trails 28 miles of trails

Open Space 43 percent of the Island is preserved open space Education One public school with about 140 students in grades K-12 Weather 50-60° in the spring and fall 65-80° in the summer 25-40° in the winter

Street Addresses Block Island is a special place with its own little quirks.

Because the U.S. Postal Service delivers only to the Island post office, street addresses do not exist. Instead, all buildings have fire numbers. They are non-sequential, however, and should not be relied on for directions. Instead, use the map included in this magazine or one of many available here once you arrive.

More Info

Visitor Info B.I. Welcome Center (800) 383-BIRI www.blockislandinfo.com www.blockislandchamber.com South County Tourism Council (401) 789-4422 www.southcountyri.com R.I. Tourism Council (800) 250-7384 www.visitrhodeisland.com Transportation B.I. Airport (800) 243-2460 New England Airlines (401) 596-2460 B.I. Harbormaster (401) 466-3204 Point Judith, R.I. ferry (866) 783-7996 New London, Conn. ferry (860) 444-4624 Montauk, N.Y. ferry (631) 668-5700 Emergency All emergencies 911 B.I. Medical Center (401) 466-2974 Police (nonemergency) (401) 466-3220 Fire Department/Rescue Squad (401) 466-3220 Animal Control Officer (401) 466-3220 Coast Guard (Block Island) (401) 466-2086 Coast Guard (Galilee, R.I.) (401) 789-0444 Close To Home, A World Away 9

Photo by Chris Barrett

BLOCK ISLAND BEACHES

17 miles of sandy fun

10 Close To Home, A World Away

I love the beaches here, plain and simple. I visit them frequently with my family, and over the years have discovered how the seasons change the dynamic of these special places that provide recreation for visitors and play an important role in our ecosystem.

A fall day on the beach brings plenty of sunshine and light wind. The perfect Indian summer day is always a possibility, and the temperature averages in the mid 60s. By mid-afternoon, it’s a perfect time for an outdoor adventure on a west-facing beach exposed to the warmth of the descending sun. Aside from enjoying the tranquility of the beach, you can walk the shore, gather beach treasures and explore the tide pools exposed at low tide.

The water is still warm from the summer season and nothing finishes the day better than a dip in the ocean. With the water clean and clear, one can see the bottom and the designs the water has created in the sand.

Due to the warming effects of the ocean, spring on the Island is filled with days of above-average temperatures even during April school vacations and Easter weekend.

Spring is a great time to plan the first of many family days at the beach. Shoes can be discarded upon arrival; the sand is typically warm to bare feet, especially the iron-rich sand found along the toe of many of the Island’s dunes. Retreating tides and long-gone winter storms uncover a plethora of treasures, including hard-tofind sand dollars.

Kids, with nothing but their imaginations and the sheer joy of a warm spring day outdoors, can run and expend energy and play in the gentle waves along Crescent Beach or in the tide pools of Mohegan Bluffs.

Grownups can walk leisurely

and embrace the much-needed time to reconnect and catch up on gossip, revitalize in the sea air, take a stroll or simply daydream.

Personally, I love spending the hours before the sun sets into the Block Island Sound collecting treasures like rocks for skipping and painting, worn driftwood to make mobiles, clam shells, lobster claws, and various other mysterious items washed ashore. The wrack line, where the tide stops and deposits its day’s load of flotsam and jetsam, can be a virtual jackpot for the keen observer.

On a later excursion, head to the shores of the Great Salt Pond. During the colder months, the Great Salt Pond is loaded with seals. Harp, harbor and gray seals can be seen in the water and on the rocky shores. They are curious creatures; their heads bob up and down in the gentle waves as they watch visitors on the shore.

Along with the seals are a variety of wintering seabirds gathered in rafts in the pond.

Species include mergansers, loons, buffleheads, grebes, goldeneyes and eiders. A coastal walk at the north end of the Island, at the Block Island Wildlife Refuge, in the fall finds waterbirds seeking refuge in Sachem Pond and the protective waters of Cow Cove.

So check the boat schedule and come to the Island. Then check the wind direction and the tide chart and choose any of the beaches surrounding the Island, all accessible to the public. Dress in layers, and bring a change of clothes as the kids always end up in the tide pools.

Corrie Heinz President Committee for the Great Salt Pond

www.blockislandinfo.com

Did You Know?

The original Native American name for Block Island is “Manisses,” meaning “Island of the Little God.” Later, Dutch explorer Adrian Block saw these shores and the island was named for him.

www.blockislandinfo.com

The majestic Mohegan Bluffs on the southeast side of the Island are one of the Island’s enduring vistas. You’ll find Block Island beaches provide plenty of opportunities for relaxing, swimming, fishing or simple sightseeing.

Photo by Michael Melford

Close To Home, A World Away 11

Block Island Beaches 1. Cow Cove is a rocky beach by Settlers Rock. This area offers majestic views of the mainland coast and nearby North Light. This is not a place for swimming because of a strong riptide; and the beach is used as a nesting area by many rare birds.

2. Mansion Beach is at the end of a dirt road with the same name. The Island’s biggest home once sat like a jewel on a hill overlooking Jerry’s Point. Fire destroyed the home, and it was not rebuilt. However, the beach fits its name by being Block Island’s grandest.

3. Scotch Beach is a quarter mile north of Fred Benson Town Beach and part of Crescent Beach. Scotch is a sandbox for big kids, the favorite beach of the Island summer workers.

For those who enjoy a hotly contested game of volleyball, this is the place to go to challenge the locals. There is a small parking lot just west of the beach.

4. Fred Benson Town Beach is home to Block Island’s fully equipped bathhouse. Once called State Beach, it is now operated by the town. Town Beach is staffed with lifeguards in summer and the pavilion offers showers, lockers, food and rental items. It is a segment of a beach known collectively as Crescent Beach.

5. Baby Beach, though not its official name, is a well-sheltered beachfront at the south end of Crescent Beach where children can play in shallow waters, catch small crabs, find mussels, wrestle with seaweed and maybe find a sand dollar or starfish. Adults can wade out for a swim in deeper waters.

Its location close to town may be the primary reason that so many adults bring their little ones here in summer.

6. Ballard’s Beach is the other beach staffed with lifeguards in the summer. This deep-sand beach, located on the south side of the Old Harbor breakwater and behind Ballard’s restaurant, is a popular choice for volleyball, swimming and sunbathing.

7. Mohegan Bluffs beachfront can be found at the foot of the steps that descend from the Mohegan Bluffs. The beach is a favorite of surfers.

8. Vaill Beach is a large beach at the bottom of a hollow.

You’ll find the path to the beach at the bend in Snake Hole Road. At the base of the trail, turn left; Vaill begins past 50

12 Close To Home, A World Away

yards of rocky and sandy terrain. The surf here can be quite rough, and rocks line the shallows, so swimmers should exercise caution. The sand on this south-shore beach can be patchy, depending on previous weather conditions, but typically you’ll find some deep sands. Hike westward and you’ll feel like you’ve discovered a rocky paradise.

9. Black Rock is a gorgeous setting. There are beaches and a series of coves at the base of the cliffs. Sandy stretches are hard to find and swimming is difficult. This area is named after a large, dark rock in about 15 feet of water that has been the demise of many ships. You’ll want to walk or bike there.

10. Mosquito Beach, or “dinghy beach,” across from Scotch Beach provides a place for boaters in New Harbor to leave their dinghies or rafts. The spot off Corn Neck Road also offers majestic views of the Great Salt Pond and a perfect photo backdrop.

11. Andy’s Way is at the end of a dirt road bearing the same name. The beach on the Great Salt Pond provides a place to pull up a dinghy or take a stroll. To the north is Beane Point, a U.S. Fish and Wildlife property that many rare birds call home.

Andy’s Way is also the premier clamming spot on the Island.

12. West Beach presents a truly different experience. The beach here is lightly trafficked, has gentle surf and offers perhaps the Island’s best beach walk. To the north is an undeveloped stretch backed by dunes that leads the way to the North Light.

13. Coast Guard Beach at the end of Champlin Road receives its name from the nearby former Coast Guard Station.

Not a location for swimming, the beach is a favorite of families clamming, fishermen looking to hook fish and boat lovers watching the sailboats and yachts pull into New Harbor.

14. Charlestown Beach is a popular beach with the fishermen, especially along the jetty at its north end. For beachgoers, the jetty is a challenging walk. The beach is typically uncrowded and peaceful. From here you can watch sail and power boats enter New Harbor, and view the grounds of the former Coast Guard Station, which is now town-owned.

15a. Grace’s, 15b. Dorry’s and 15c. Cooneymus Coves are secluded beaches on the west side of the Island.

They are all great places for a nap or sunset gazing. The water is usually calm, and hikes in either direction from each of them are challenging.

www.blockislandinfo.com

Did You KNow? In the spring hundreds of endangered piping plovers stop on the shores of Block Island as they make their way north. Block Island provides not only a welcome rest stop, but a safe haven for these shorebirds with their distinct yellow legs and their short orange bill. For more information on the Island’s diverse bird population turn to page 17.

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Running for the Spray One of the many marked trails that provide access to the clear waters of the Atlantic while protecting the Island’s natural dunes.

Photo by Michael Melford

www.blockislandinfo.com

15c

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Close To Home, A World Away 13

Did You Know?

In the fall, the Block Island Gardeners plant daffodil bulbs around the Island. In the spring, thousands of daffodils bloom and create a sea of yellow and white for all to enjoy.

Steps to Nature The staircase leading down the Mohegan Bluffs to the beach below.

Photo by Michael Melford 14 Close To Home, A World Away

www.blockislandinfo.com

A NATURAL WONDER

With 43 percent of the Island preserved forever as open space, it’s no surprise that organizations from around the world have recognized Block Island’s natural wonders as some of the most beautiful and prestigious in the hemisphere. But don’t take our word for it. Come visit and you’ll be amazed.

T

he natural world on Block Island is unique on the East Coast. While this Island is small, only about 6,000 acres, a lot is packed into this area. There is an incredible diversity of birds, insects, plants, sea life and habitats that can all be found coexisting.

Block Island is also in the flight path of many migratory songbirds making their first trip south in the fall. Birding in the fall is one of my favorite things to do because you never know what will show up. I have birded all over the world and, for my money, there is no place more fun to bird-watch than Block Island in the fall.

This is especially true when a northwest wind blows and the birds “fallout” on the Island. In addition to the songbirds, it is always exciting to locate migrating raptors like the peregrine falcon, Merlin and Cooper’s hawk soaring over the Island looking for a quick meal.

In the winter, the marine mammal displays are spectacular. You can observe seals sitting on the rocks, watch harbor porpoises jumping out of the water from the ferry; and maybe even spot whales spouting off the south side of the Island. It never gets old to see these wonderful creatures make their presence known.

In the spring, the diversity of life on the Island awakens from its winter slumber. You can hear the deafening call of the spring peeper, watch the mating ritual of the American woodcock and see plants starting to leaf out and bloom. No matter where you are on Block Island in the spring, the

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natural world is all around you.

Block Island is easy to explore with 28 miles of walking trails that lead throughout the Island, allowing everyone to enjoy the many different habitats found here. These trails, combined with the public roads and the beaches, provide unprecedented access to much of the Island.

I have spent many years observing the natural world on Block Island, and continue to see and learn new things every day. One of the greatest things about living or spending time on this Island is how connected you feel to the world around you. It is only through experiencing the nature of Block Island that you can tap into the true essence of this amazing place.

Scott Comings Director Block Island Program The Nature Conservancy

Close To Home, A World Away 15

Photo by Michael Melford

Block Island’s natural wonders will inspire, awe and intrigue you.

Photo by Michael Melford

16 Close To Home, A World Away

wild and beautiful cleft in the rolling terrain left from a melting glacier. The hollow is the haunt of hawks, white-tailed deer and several rare species of wildflowers. In the 1960s, developers bought it and proposed building a dozen houses on the slopes. This so alarmed Island residents that they formed the Block Island Conservancy, with the late Captain Rob Lewis as their leader, and raised enough money to buy it back so that it could be forever wild. Walking trails lead to Black Rock Beach.

Black Rock, which gives the area its name, is a popular surfing and fishing spot.

Located in about 15 feet of water, about 150 feet offshore, the rock itself is only visible in extreme low tide. When swells expose the rock, it is said to resemble a huge black whale.

Today, waters around Black Rock attract striped bass and bluefish, but in years past, ships were known to meet their doom here. The Jacob S. Winslow, a four-masted

Photo by Chris Barrett

Clay Head Nature Trail is reached via a dirt road leading off Corn Neck Road, across from a yellow Victorian house, just two miles north of the town beach pavilion. A paradise for walkers, Clay Head Trail leads to the northeastern shore of the Island and meanders along the scenic bluffs of Clay Head for more than a mile until it reaches Settlers Rock. Branching off the main trail are several other trails, which have given the area the nickname “the Maze.” One such trail leads directly to the beach north of Jerry’s Point where you can still see remnants of the glacial formation called “Pots & Kettles.”

Rodman’s Hollow, named after an early Island doctor, is a

schooner, struck Black Rock on March 1, 1914. The timber from the ship strewn on the beach was salvaged and used to build a barn on Lewis Farm and the original electric plant.

Mohegan Bluffs, to the west of the Southeast Lighthouse, provide a magnificent view of the southern coast and its high cliffs, with Montauk, N.Y. often visible 20 miles away. At Payne Overlook, you’ll find a wooden stairway that was built with funding from the Rhode Island Department of Environmental Management. It is a difficult climb, and the footing at the bottom is extremely challenging, but the climb is worth it. Be careful though, since swimming conditions

at the beach are sometimes dangerous.

Abrams’ Animal Farm has a diverse collection of exotic and domestic animals maintained by Justin Abrams and family, owners of the 1661 Inn and Hotel Manisses. The small farm between Spring and High streets is home to camels, llamas, emus, sheep, donkeys, goats, swans and ducks. Visitors can view and pet the animals. Here you’ll also see the Hotel Manisses’ extensive garden. Open to the public from dawn to dusk.

Ocean View Pavilion is a place for rest and reflection with wonderful views. The Ocean View Foundation is a nonprofit organization that secured www.blockislandinfo.com

Photo by Russell Waldron

this Old Harbor plot for the enjoyment of the public.

The largest hotel on the Island, the Ocean View, once stood on this site until fire destroyed it in the summer of 1966. The pavilion is dedicated to the concept of expanding the public’s awareness of environmental issues. Visitors must walk in from Water Street across from the ferry parking lot and just to the left of the post office building.

The site is open from dawn to dusk.

The Greenway is a web of trails that connects stretches of natural habitat and wonderful Island scenery. The Enchanted Forest, Turnip Farm, the site of the Old Mill, Dodge Cemetery and Rodman’s Hollow are only some of the historic and natural features that can be explored on this walker’s escape from the hustle and bustle of town.

No vehicles, including bikes, are allowed on the trails.

The trail network was created in an effort to protect broad tracts of natural habitat, essential to some species, and to provide a low-impact opportunity for those who admire the Island’s open space. Please be sure to stay on the pathways, as some of the corridors run through the private lands of owners who were kind enough to offer easements for the trails. The Nature Conservancy, at (401) 466-2129, offers a detailed map of the Greenway as well as a new Nature Guide.

The Nature Conservancy, on High Street, provides a wealth of information about the Island’s wildlife and plants. The nonprofit organization leads nature walks and offers trail maps and bird checklists. Staff can answer questions about wildlife seen during your visit and point you in the right direction to find it. The organization also plays a key role in the effort to preserve the Island’s natural wonders for the enjoyment of the public.

www.blockislandinfo.com

BIRDING TAKES FLIGHT

D

uring the spring and fall migration, thousands of birds pass over Block Island, making the Island a sort of superhighway for bird travel. Spend a few hours here and you’re likely to see numerous bird species. Spend a few days and you’ll see dozens of birds ranging from prairie warblers to great crested flycatchers to Baltimore orioles. Spend enough time here and you could see all 300 species that frequent the Island at one point or another during the year.

A favorite locale for amateur bird-watchers and professional ornithologists, Block Island offers a varied landscape that attracts songbirds, shorebirds and raptors. Young birds blown off course during the fall migration south find shelter in the Island’s brush. In the spring, many return sporting their best plumage in an attempt to impress the females before mating season begins in the summer.

And because of the diverse environment, it’s possible to see a sandpiper by Andy’s Way and a few minutes later a red-tailed hawk in a nearby grassland. Each fall the Audubon Society sponsors a bird-watching conference on the Island, and throughout the year the Ocean View Foundation and The Nature Conservancy offer bird-banding demonstrations.

The Block Island School is home to the Elizabeth Dickens Bird Collection that spans 43 years and contains 172 mounted specimens. In the early half of the 20th century, Island resident Dickens became the foremost expert on the Island’s birds. Today she is remembered for her journals documenting the Island’s birds, and is lovingly referred to as the “Bird Lady of Block Island.”

Other notable ornithologists that have used Block Island as a study lab include Ken Able, a New York University at Albany professor considered an expert on the behavioral mechanisms and ecology of bird migration. Also dropping in were University of Southern Mississippi ornithology professor Frank Moore and Brown University professor Jeff Parrish.

Close To Home, A World Away 17

OCEAN ADVENTURES

A boating and fishing paradise I always tell people that Block Island is the best place in the world.

And, as its harbormaster, I have one of the best jobs. I spend every day of the summer on the water meeting boaters from around the world, all enjoying this rare gem called Block Island.

Few places on the East Coast offer a safe haven 13 miles out to sea. Few places provide almost 100 public moorings, more than 75 acres of anchorage and a recreation area for boaters. And no matter where boaters pull in, they find nearby shops, beaches and crystal-clear water. Visitors also love the relaxed atmosphere, where they can kick back and enjoy life.

Boaters can choose to unwind on their boats and watch the sun set over the Great Salt Pond, explore and enjoy the Island, or go fishing, swimming, or clamming. With the Block Island Sound to the west and the Atlantic Ocean to the east and south, Block Island is the epicenter of

Boats in the Harbor Boats from around the world moor in New Harbor. The harbor provides public moorings and anchorage space for thousands of boaters a year.

Photo by Michael Melford

18 Close To Home, A World Away

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the best fishing in New England. Offshore fishing opportunities for tuna and shark are close by. The Island hosts the Tri-State Canyon Shootout, a premier offshore invitational fishing tournament held out of New Harbor each August.

Record-sized striped bass are caught in the surrounding waters every year. The Rhode Island state record striped bass of 75 pounds, 4 ounces was caught one mile off the Island just this past year. The previous record of 70 pounds was also caught from our beaches.

Of course, even those that don’t set a record return to the docks with recordsized smiles on their faces.

For those looking for

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firmer ground, shore access is unrestricted around the entire Island, thus offering unlimited locations for surfcasters. It’s easy to find a spot without the shoulder-to-shoulder crowds that invade most popular fishing destinations.

During the spring and fall the public shores become essentially private fishing outposts where you can catch striped bass, bluefish, fluke and bonito.

Also on the Island are clam flats in New Harbor offering acres of clamming for visitors and residents alike. The inner ponds provide great sheltered kayaking waters as well as areas for kiteboarding, swimming, windsurfing, wakeboarding, waterskiing

and sailing.

As winter arrives and boating and fishing draw to a close for the season, our visiting boaters head to warmer waters and local boats are pulled from the water. The harbormaster’s office closes up and the fishing poles are stored as we bid farewell to yet another fantastic season.

This is a bittersweet time, but I know the boats will be returning in the spring, there will be more people to meet, more fish to be caught, and more fun to be had.

Capt. Christopher Willi Harbormaster

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Boating Boating offers a unique way of enjoying the many splendors that the Island has to offer. Private boats are welcome in either of the Island’s harbors, both of which provide public moorings as well as private marinas.

Launch service is available during the summer months, and there are bathroom facilities and restaurants at all marinas.

Don’t have your own boat? No problem.

Numerous private charters are available, whether you are looking to depart on a private fishing charter or a sunset cruise.

Charter captains are happy to teach the beginner angler the finer points of fishing or to point out sights on a romantic trip around the Block.

More of a do-it-yourselfer? The Block Island Maritime Institute or the Block Island Club offer sailing lessons and rentals, and there are a couple of kayak rental businesses. Explore the Island’s inner ponds at your leisure or take a guided tour and see the Island from a whole new perspective.

Photo by Malcolm Greenaway

Ballard’s Marina (401) 466-2231 (summer) (401) 334-1997 (winter) VHF Channel 13

Public Moorings and Anchorage (401) 466-3204 VHF Channel 12 (7 a.m. to 9 p.m.)

Boat Basin (401) 466-2631 VHF Channel 9 Champlin’s Marina (401) 466-7777 or (800) 762-4541 VHF Channel 68 Payne’s Dock (401) 466-5572 Block Island Maritime Institute (401) 466-7938 (sailboat rentals and lessons)

New Harbor is the first stop for Island visitors arriving on the Montauk ferry and is the docking and anchoring spot for most private boaters. Docks, marinas and anchoring services await boats in the southwest corner of New Harbor, as well as shops, restaurants and hotel accommodations. Free pumpout service is provided by the town.

New Harbor was, in fact, the site of the Island’s first protected harbor, but the expense of keeping a breachway open between the Great Salt Pond and Block Island Sound caused it to be abandoned in 1705. A new breach was cut and a breakwater was constructed to establish a permanent access point in 1896. More than 100 years later, boaters can pull into full-service marinas or sit on the dock sipping their favorite cocktails as the sun sets over the Great Salt Pond.

Kayak and sailboat rentals are also available at various locations on the Great Salt Pond.

Old Harbor Old Harbor is a year-round docking destination for ferries coming from Point Judith, and accommodates seasonal Newport and New London ferries as well. Nestled within the bustling downtown, the harbor provides easy access to the Island’s hotels, restaurants and retail shops. The town provides free pumpout service as well.

Once known as Government Harbor since funds to construct it were solicited from the federal government, Old Harbor was completed in 1872. In addition to public anchorage and the town dock, private marina services are also offered by Ballard’s Marina.

Many private charter boats leave from here as well.

Public Anchorage and Town Dock (401) 466-3235 VHF Channel 12 (7 a.m. to 9 p.m.)

Photo by Gillian Lang

New Harbor

Block Island Harbors Department Office Telephone: (401) 466-3204 Old Harbor Dock: (401) 466-3235 Summer Hours: 8AM - 7PM Winter Hours: 9AM - 2PM VHF Radio: Ch12 7AM - 9PM Pumpout: Ch72 (Old Harbor) Ch73 (New Harbor) 20 Close To Home, A World Away

Photo by Celeste Sloman

9PM - 7AM - Emergency Only

www.blockislandinfo.com

FISHING ON BLOCK ISLAND

What you’ll catch from May through November Block Island has long held the reputation as a sportfishing mecca, offering great angling spring, summer and fall. Located 13 miles out in the Atlantic, there is no limit to the fishing opportunities for the surfcaster, inshore or deep-sea enthusiast.

As spring approaches, striped bass appear in the shallows around the Island, and the games begin. In summer 2008 a record striped bass — 75.4 pounds — was caught just off the Island’s south side. It replaced the previous state record of 70 pounds caught 24 years before from a Block Island beach.

Also found in abundance close to Block Island shores are bluefish, tautog and black sea bass. The channel into New Harbor is a prime fishing ground for flounder, fluke and scup, as well as weakfish.

The Island boasts a professional charter-fishing fleet to take clients to the action, which could include fly-fishing or deep-sea trolling. Apart from the species mentioned, you might also hook into bonito, yellow fin tuna, mahi-mahi or even a shark.

There are two tackle shops on the Island as well, which have all the supplies and local knowledge a visitor could need to reel in the best of Block Island’s fishing.

www.blockislandinfo.com

Close To Home, A World Away 21

A Winter Wonderland

Photos by Keith Lang

Even winter on Block Island has a serenity and beauty that is quintessential New England. Spend your days snowshoeing, ice boating or hiking. Rent a summer cottage at a reduced rate, stock up on firewood and books, and enjoy a peaceful evening in a traditional Island home.

A few hotels and bed-and-breakfasts cater to year-round customers and there are a limited number of dining options for wintertime visitors.

Come Home To

Block Island

Real Estate Sales and Service Whether you are looking to purchase that special Island property or planning a relaxing vacation, Ballard Hall Real Estate is on-island year round to assist you. Browse our property listings and connect with one of our agents for buyer or seller representation.

When it comes to a Block Island house rental choose from over 100 homes, cottages and condos ranging from one to seven bedrooms. Make your selection at our new website featuring interior photos, pricing and weekly availability.

Call for reservations.

www.blockislandproperty.com Gail P. Ballard Hall, Principal Broker Corner of Ocean Ave. and Corn Neck Road 401-466-8883 22 Close To Home, A World Away

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Photos by Celeste Sloman

A SHOPPER’S HEAVEN There’s something for everyone

The Block Island shopping bug bit me early. As a young girl summering here, I took the money I earned working at my parents’ take-out and ran down the street to the candy store with my eye on securing a roll of candy dots. I have to acknowlAs a visitor to Block edge that I still hold a Island, the best way to soft spot for these little enjoy shopping is as pieces of sugar. a complement to the Today, though, my Island’s other wonders. shopping horizons The shops can provide have expanded, and the the needed gear for your roughly 50 Island shops hike on the Greenway offering everything trails or your dive to from T-shirts to jewelry shipwrecks off the coast. quench my thirst. One of the facets of life I love here is the absence of chain stores with their generic product lines and idle sales clerks.

On Block Island, shop owners take great pains to hand-select their products and offer one-of-a-kind gifts and novelties. They take great pride in their stores and more often than not, you will find that the clerk behind the register is actually the owner. The majority of these “mom-and-pop” stores went into business years ago and have spent those years perfecting everything from their display cases to their prices. Our honey and jam makers continually improve their offerings, and new-style flip-flops arrive every year.

My new candy these days, though, are Vera Bradley handbags and Block Island-themed gifts for friends on the mainland. Each year during the Christmas Stroll in November, I find bargain prices on presents www.blockislandinfo.com

for my family and friends. I love the feeling of knowing that I’m giving a present that will stand out and also won’t break the bank. Besides the bargains there are no lines at the checkout, you don’t need to find parking, and the shop owners give free hot cider to warm you up. It’s a totally stress-free shopping experience.

During the rest of the year I love being able to walk the historic downtown area without the need of a car or taxi.

The shops are just steps away from the ferry docks in Old Harbor, putting them within easy reach of visitors as well as residents like me. The variety of goods that can be found in this small area is amazing, and I can always find the perfect gift.

As a visitor to Block Island, the best way to enjoy shopping is as a complement to the Island’s other wonders. The shops can provide the needed gear for your hike on the Greenway trails or your dive to shipwrecks off the coast. Need sunglasses or a fishing pole? Want to rent a surfboard or kayak? Forget your bathing suit or board shorts? Not a problem. The shops here have everything you might need to help fulfill the perfect vacation.

And before you leave, stop by one of the candy stores to indulge yourself. You may even see me picking up some candy dots.

Jessica K. Willi Executive Director Block Island Tourism Council

Close To Home, A World Away 23

Photo by Chris Barrett

Block Island offers a great place to pick up that perfect gift for her, him, children, or friends and family members.

Whether it is shopping in town, at the twiceweekly Farmers Market, Arts & Craft Guild fairs or Christmas Stroll (immediately following Thanksgiving), you can find that unique gift.

24 Close To Home, A World Away

For Her Among the various shops on the Island are fabulous opportunities to impress your sweetheart. No matter what her style is, you will find something here that she will cherish forever.

Some of the most popular items include chocolates, jewelry, art, hand-made pottery and knitting, local preserves and unique handbags. Among the Island delicacies that can be caught on land are handdipped chocolate turtles (not yet endangered, although so delicious they are sometimes in short supply) and fudge. There are numerous jewelry stores, galleries, and other shops where you can find that special keepsake that will allow her to always remember your unforgettable Island getaway.

Depending on her taste, you can find something elegant, like pearls, diamonds, or other precious gems, or something a bit more funky with flair, like sea-glass bracelets, earrings

and rings. A variety of Island artists offer paintings, photographs and one-of-a-kind art displays that will brighten her office and make for a great conversation piece. If the love of your life is inclined to go green and support local farmers and artisans, consider some of the handmade blankets, knitting items and local preserves.

For Him Block Island’s stores also offer a wide range of goods that are the perfect complement to his vacation. Pick up a Block Island tie, belt or T-shirt for a night out on the town. If a quiet afternoon of fishing is more his style, then you can find rods, bait and tackle at the Island stores. Want to while away your afternoon on the beach?

Pick up a book about the Island; from history to trivia, there is something for everyone.

www.blockislandinfo.com

Photo by Celeste Sloman

If your family and friends enjoy being together, consider planning a trip to Block Island for that perfect birthday, anniversary or holiday. Step into a more leisurely pace, and relax and enjoy the things that are often forgotten during your hectic life.

There are a variety of ways for groups and families to enjoy the Island together. You might stay at one of the Island’s Victorian hotels, rent a house for the weekend or week, or come over for a day trip. Once on the Island, treat your friends www.blockislandinfo.com

Photo by Michael Melford

Photo by Chris Barrett

For Family & Friends

and family to some of New England’s best fish dishes, and enjoy the pristine beaches and nature trails. Make that special day memorable!

If your friends can’t come with you, consider bringing them back a Block Island mug, a piece of original artwork or a comic Island T-shirt. The shops here are the perfect place to pick up a stocking stuffer or birthday present. There are also great seasonal deals in all of the Island shops.

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A HISTORIC PLACE History around every corner

Did You Know?

The Island’s Historical Society contains more than 2,000 items chronicling the Island’s rich history. The society’s museum is open regularly during the summer and by appointment during the rest of the year.

Lighting the Way The 135-year old Southeast Lighthouse, an iconic landmark, was moved 250 feet to save it from tumbling over the eroding bluffs.

Photo by Michael Melford

26 Close To Home, A World Away

www.blockislandinfo.com

My love of Block Island history stems from my family’s heritage that dates back to 1661 when the first European settlers arrived here at Settlers Rock. Twenty years with the Historical Society has given me a unique insight into the wide and important role history plays on this Island.

Experiencing history here is like taking a journey back in time. It’s a journey that leads us, not just as Block Islanders but as people, to understand how we arrived where we are today. The historic structures here are more than brick and mortar; they are the keys to unlocking the history of this great place that started as a modest fishing and farming outpost and grew into a vibrant community.

Like your grandmother’s attic, these structures provide hours of education, curiosity, satisfaction and just plain fun. Climb the steps of one of the two lighthouses and imagine a lifesaving boat rowing to the rescue of a sinking ship. Visit the Historical Society and view Native American artifacts from before the European settlement; admire the clothing worn by women of the colonial and Victorian eras; or be amazed by the intricate quilt work of the Island’s homemakers. Hike the nature trails through farmland and imagine a farmer rounding up his sheep.

We love history here so much that we moved a 2,000-ton brick lighthouse 250 feet to save it from eroding bluffs. We’ve preserved the historic look of downtown, kept farmlands as farms and historic homes historic. We’ve sought grants, raised private money and put in pure sweat equity to maintain the Island’s historic charm and the

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memories it holds.

Some of the most important memories are of the people that lived here. In an age when children turn to Hollywood for heroes, those who visit Block Island can learn of Fred Benson.

This beloved schoolteacher, fisherman and mechanic won the lottery and threw a family picnic for the town. He contributed the rest of his winnings to a scholarship fund.

Or there’s the story of Nicholas Ball, who sailed around the world at age 14, then to California during the Gold Rush and returned a millionaire. He persuaded the federal government to build the breakwater at Old Harbor that turned the island from an isolated community into a place very much connected to the mainland.

And it never ceases to amaze me how deep that connection runs. I have met visitors in the museum and discovered we have common ancestors. I have assisted dozens, if not hundreds, of people on a quest to complete their family trees. I have held postcards and letters sent halfway around the world to Block Island residents. And I have uncovered stories that you need to see to believe.

So if you’ve been here in the past, you’re sure to find a piece of history you missed. If this is your first visit, then come and be a part of Block Island history.

Who knows; some day a century from now a historian could be studying that postcard you sent home and wondering, what was it like back then?

Pam Littlefield Gasner Executive Director Block Island Historical Society

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28 Close To Home, A World Away

Photo by Keith Lang

swam ashore into the cove, known thereafter as Cow Cove.

Bird-watching, fishing and sunset gazing are favorite pastimes at this location.

The Block Island Historical Society Museum & Gift Shop is located at Bridgegate Square in the white mansard-roof building with rocking chairs on the porch. It was established in 1942 to preserve the Island’s culture and farming and maritime past. The museum building, originally known as the Woonsocket House, was purchased in 1945, and houses an extensive collection of fine furniture, textiles, quilts, boat models, tools, fishing gear, oral history tapes and other memorabilia. Group tours and genealogy research assistance are available. For more information call (401) 466-2481.

Isaac’s Corner, at the intersection of Center Road, Lakeside Drive and Cooneymus Road, is named for Isaac Church, the Island’s last surviving Native Indian, who died in 1886. Nearby (to the east of the four corners) is an Indian burial ground where the headstones (small fieldstones) are set closely together.

Indian custom dictated burial of the dead in an upright position, with a pot of clams or oysters beside them to speed them on their way to the next life. The town’s Heinz Recreation Playing Field, where summer camp and sporting events are held, is located just north of the corner.

Parking is available on the grass.

There are also Greenway trails that meander around Fresh Pond.

The Island Free Library may not look big but it handles big business. About 116,000 people passed through its doors last fiscal year, checking out more than 43,000 items from books to DVDs. The air-conditioned facility provides public bathrooms, a place to escape the hot sun and, of course, dozens of books detailing the Island’s history.

Besides the usual books, the

Photo by Michael Melford

The Southeast Lighthouse is perched 200 feet above sea level on the magnificent Mohegan Bluffs. When lit in 1875, the lantern’s beams reached 21 miles out to sea — farther than any lighthouse in New England.

When this National Historic Landmark was first constructed, a large field separated the house and tower from the cliff’s edge.

By the late 1980s, the bluffs had eroded to within 60 feet of the building. Funding was attained through federal, state and local channels to move it to safe grounds. The move took place in August of 1993, and a large stone now marks where the tower once stood. The grounds are open daily from sunrise to sunset. Guided tower tours are available daily in the summer and on weekends in the spring and fall. For more information call (401) 466-5009.

The North Light is the fourth lighthouse built on Sandy Point.

The first, finished in 1829, was washed away in a few years. A second light began operation in 1837, but was not visible to ships due to the shifting sands.

The government built a third light near the end of the point in 1857, and that also succumbed to the sea. At last, in 1867, the present sturdy building of Connecticut granite, hauled to the site by oxen, was completed.

The lighthouse is located in the Sachem Pond Wildlife Refuge, and is less than a half-mile walk from Settlers Rock.

Settlers Rock & Sachem Pond are at the northern end of the Island. The stone memorial was erected in 1911 in commemoration of the landing 250 years earlier of the first European settlers on Block Island. In April 1661, the families and animals of 16 men who had purchased the Island for 400 pounds sterling arrived by barque from the Massachusetts Bay Colony. Because the Island had no natural harbor, they were forced to leave their ship and wade ashore. The cows

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Photo by Michael Melford

SHIPWRECKS T

library contains copy machines, computers, printers, free Wi-Fi, a parakeet, a cockatoo and some fish.

Smilin’ Through is a gambrelroofed cottage situated on Cooneymus Road, where composer and poet Arthur Penn and his wife Nell resided in the 1920s.

Penn’s musical works include a song about the Block Island home, “Smilin’ Through.” The original cottage was built in the 1700s by John Alcock and was rebuilt in the 1950s. The house sits on the edge of a sloping hill, which leads down to the waters of Fresh Pond.

The Statue of Rebecca stands formally in stark white at the intersection of Water, High and Spring streets. Named after the biblical Rebekah-at-the-well, the statue originally featured water troughs for horses and dogs, and once had running water for human consumption. Installed in 1896 by the Women’s Christian Temperance Union, the statue is dedicated to abstinence from liquid spirits. The much-loved statue was recast and reinstalled to celebrate her 100th anniversary. The conservationists who did the work concluded that the woman is not Rebekah but rather Hebe, cupbearer to the gods!

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he history of Block Island extends beyond its sandy and rocky shores. Before the arrival of modern navigational aids (and even after it) countless ships — off-course due to fog, weather or human error — have met their untimely demise on the Island’s coastline. While some have become the stuff of legend, others continue to draw sport divers from around the East Coast In 1738 the Princess Augusta caught fire and went down off Sandy Point. This wreck went on to inspire John Greenleaf Whittier’s poem “The Palatine,” which was published in Atlantic Monthly in 1867 and did not paint a flattering portrait of Islanders. In the 1800s, the Island historian, Rev. Livermore, dispelled the allegations in Whittier’s poem. In the centuries since, there have been numerous reports of a burning “ghost ship” sighted in the area west of Sandy Point.

In 1846 a ship carrying hard coal went aground in Cow Cove.

This coal eventually replaced peat as the Island’s major fuel source.

In 1907 the steamer Larchmont collided with a three-masted schooner, the Harry P. Knowlton. Island fishermen braved the horrific sub-zero conditions in an effort to pluck a few survivors from the icy water. These men were awarded gold medals from the Carnegie Foundation for their heroic deeds.

Also in 1907, the Montana, a schooner carrying coal, foundered just outside the entrance to the Great Salt Pond and now lies 75 feet underwater.

In 1939, a 416-foot Texaco tanker, the Lightburne, went aground in front of the Southeast Lighthouse carrying 72,000 barrels of kero-

Waves pound an old shipwreck off the southern coast of Block Island, just one of the many surrounding the Island. Photo by Celeste Sloman

sene and gasoline. The crew was rescued and the ship was dynamited to create less of a navigational hazard. The Lightburne remains a favorite spot for ocean divers to this day.

One of the Island’s most significant wrecks of the last 100 years occurred on May 6, 1945 — two days before the German surrender.

A collier named Black Point was torpedoed as she left Narragansett Bay, losing 12 men. A group of American warships, assisted by blimps, converged on the area to find the culprit. Eventually the armada located and sank the German U-boat U-853, sending it to the bottom with all 55 crew members on board.

The wreck, lying in 130 feet of water approximately seven miles east of Block Island’s Clay Head, has become a popular site for divers. It played a crucial role in solving the mystery in the bestselling book “Shadow Divers.”

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30 Close To Home, A World Away

www.blockislandinfo.com

CREATIVE ISLE Art for all

One of the several times I was wrangling with graduate school, I was advised to “critically examine the ramifications and implications of what it meant to be a ‘poet of place.’”

Naturally, I dropped out of the program immediately and completed, instead, my second collection, “This Place Here,” in which I explored, instead, my lovely dog Eliot, my two beautiful children, Orrin and Millie, and their growing up in this extraordinary place with its sandpipers and the always-shifting tide.

Years later, I came across a line that seemed relevant to both. It went something like, “A place is not really entirely a place until some poet has come along to properly name it.” It made me feel important for a day or two, but somehow it echoed falsely. The more I thought about it I realized that for me, I never really knew I was a poet until I’d found this place, Block Island, which stirred my imagination and heart so fiercely I had no choice but to try to describe it with the beauty and elegance and grainy texture of language it deserved.

I would gather that many of our artists only dabbled in their various genres before finding their way to Block Island and beginning to take their work more seriously. And why? Because art, whether it is a poem, a song, a painting, a photograph or a sand castle, is a form of prayer. I write poems as a way of saying back to this gorgeous, pulsing place, “Yes, I am looking. Yes I see.” Or sometimes, just “thank you.” I would imagine it’s the same for my many artist friends.

Sometimes, things are just so stunningly beautiful there is this need to try to hold onto them. I use words. My friend Jessie Edwards uses pen and ink, Sandra Swan the woodcut. Often there are times when I see a color so shocking it is almost an unworldly glowing version of itself. That’s when I call Cindy Kelly, and tell her to “please get to Red Gate Farm before the light shifts,” because she knows how color and light and shadow dance together better than www.blockislandinfo.com

anyone.

Then there are the many days I am out for yet another Island cruise, and I am wishing I was Malcolm Greenaway with his camera, so that those who don’t have the blessing of witnessing Rodman’s Hollow after a snowfall, or when the shad is in full bloom, might know what the world looks like in these coveted moments.

And then Malcolm will drive up, breathless, like me, with the desire to “get it” and to get it right.

So really, then, we are all artists, aren’t we, because we all have this remarkable gift for witnessing, for observing, and for offering back some gratitude. One need not paint or draw or sculpt or write to be an artist. Pulling over on the road to watch the surf roll back works. So does braking for turtles. So does waking up every morning, and looking out the window at whichever Island view it faces, and saying, as one should, “Look at this, just look at this.”

One of these days I should call that graduate adviser and tell him I’ve been thinking about that “poet of place business.” I’ll tell him I’m still busy researching the matter, but all signs indicate it’s a pretty fortuitous life to have been given when one is a poet, and the place happens to be Block Island. Even better, no advanced degree is required.

Lisa Starr Rhode Island Poet Laureate and Block Island Resident

Left top: A visitor admires paintings at an Arts & Crafts Guild fair. Left below: Island artist Leslie Ulrich at her gallery.

Photos by Celeste Sloman Close To Home, A World Away 31

The Art of Block Island It’s perhaps no surprise that Block Island — a work of natural art — attracts and inspires artists of many stripes working in many different types of media.

The Island’s inherent beauty — its rolling green hills, spectacular cliff-top vistas and foggy hollows surrounded by stone walls — has for decades inspired painters, watercolorists, photographers and sculptors alike to capture its otherworldly grandeur.

Not only is the Island itself a source of inspiration, but the serenity inherent in a secluded getaway 13 miles into the Atlantic allows for quiet and reflection, important ingredients in making art.

The art and the effort to create it can be seen all around.

Like striped bass returning to the Island in the spring, so artists appear as the weather warms with their canvases and palettes mounted in fields or on sidewalks, creating their work “en plein air.”

From the frescoed Island scenes created in the Highview Hotel basement by H. D. Wetherbee in 1948 (in exchange for rent and whiskey), to Malcolm Greenaway’s image of the North Light currently hanging in the U.S. ambassador’s residence in Montenegro, Block Island-inspired art has traveled the globe.

Besides the Island’s art galleries (filled almost exclusively with art created by Island artists), there are a half-dozen shows sponsored by the Island’s Arts & Crafts Guild on the Historical Society lawn in the summer.

There are also the weekly “Capt.

Kidd” art classes for young children on the Historical Society lawn, as well as numerous art retreats that visit the Island throughout the warmer months.

And it’s not all just visual media: the Block Island Poetry Project, the inspiration of Island resident and Rhode Island Poet Laureate Lisa Starr, has drawn world-class poets to the Island to conduct workshops in the spring.

So, if you want to bring an image of Block Island home with you that is more substantial than a postcard, you will find ample keepsakes for purchase. Or, perhaps you would prefer to set up your own canvas or easel on a secluded stretch of beach or next to a still pond, and create your own Block Island art.

Did You KNow? The work of Block Island artists has been featured in U.S. embassies, national art shows and government buildings. Some say a photograph is worth a thousand words, but nothing beats experiencing the beauty of Block Island in person.

Photo by Michael Melford

32 Close To Home, A World Away

www.blockislandinfo.com

Photo by Malcolm Greenaway

The North Light on the Adriatic Greenaway photo adorns U.S. ambassador’s residence Island photographers take good pictures.

But don’t take our word for it.

The U.S. ambassador to Montenegro thought a photograph of the North Light by island photographer Malcolm Greenaway was so perfect he asked the State Department to bring it halfway around the world to his official residence.

The photo, titled “Dusk at North Light,” is part of a 10-piece exhibit hand-picked by Ambassador Roderick W. Moore, a Rhode Island native who visited Block Island frequently as a child. In summer 2007, he returned for a visit and admired the North Light and the coastline. When Moore’s father, who lives in East Greenwich, R.I., later saw Greenaway’s photo at a show, he thought of his son.

“I said see if you can talk to the artist and send me a jpeg,” Moore said in a telephone interview. “So he did and I saw it and I loved it.”

Moore’s father contacted Greenaway and pitched the idea of shipping the 2-by-3 foot photo to a country Greenaway had never heard of. Greenaway politely expressed interest but never thought the call would amount to anything more than an interesting tidbit to tell at parties.

But Moore contacted the State Department about its Art in Embassies program, which pays shipping and insurance costs for ambassadors to hang loaned artwork in official residences. When the program contacted Greenaway, he was more than happy to oblige.

“It was something that was sort of neat and a little different,” Greenaway said. “Just the idea of Block Island hanging on a wall over there in Europe is sort of funny, and I’m curiwww.blockislandinfo.com

ous to see what the reaction is when people see it.”

Moore said Greenaway’s piece complements a New England theme for the exhibit, and hangs prominently on the main floor of his residence. He said he loves the colors in the photograph and the uniqueness of the lighthouse. And he thought the photo was particularly relevant in the country that borders the Adriatic Sea and includes similar coastlines and inner mountains as New England does.

“Block Island is a place that I’ve always loved as a Rhode Islander,” Moore said. “I always try and get out to Block Island when I’m there in the summer and this [photograph] being a tribute to New England, it seemed like the perfect match.”

Greenaway now joins a growing list of wellknown artists who have participated in the Art in Embassies program established by the State Department in 1964 as a way to complement diplomacy by showing the diversity and quality of American artwork and culture. Today, artwork hangs in about 180 ambassador residences worldwide. And Greenaway is not the first Block Island artist to participate in the program. A piece by Jerry Powers of the Spring Street Gallery once hung in Russia.

Moore said he’s just delighted the State Department program allows him to share scenes from his roots with those in Montenegro.

“I think it’s a wonderful way of showing our hosts here in Montenegro and other countries around the world what American art is all about, and I love to show them what New England art is all about,” he said.

Close To Home, A World Away 33

HIGHLIGHTS FOR 2009 W

hile every day on Block Island is a special day, there are several events and holidays that you won’t want to miss.

Join us for the annual Fourth of July parade, fireworks and steak fry. Celebrate American independence in a unique Block Island style. Thrill to the homemade floats that make our parade one of New England’s best; watch fireworks explode over the Atlantic Ocean from the porch of your hotel or the comfort of a beach blanket; and indulge in mixed drinks and fresh seafood at one of our many Island restaurants.

If you can’t make it for the

Fourth, come for these other special events: Art festivals throughout the spring, summer and fall featuring the works of local and nationally known artists.

Take part in the annual Triathlon in August, the Shad Bloom race in early May or the “15k Run Around the Block” in September.

The Block Island Music Festival is held in early June, where bands from around the world “Rock the Block.”

For sailors, there’s the annual Block Island Race Week in June.

Memorial Day, Labor Day, Columbus Day and Veterans Day weekends feature special events and vacation packages.

The Christmas Shopping Stroll follows Thanksgiving Day, and there’s no more tranquil place to spend New Year’s weekend.

Of course, truly hearty souls should take part in the annual Polar Bear Plunge.

A full listing of events in 2009 is available at www.blockislandinfo.com. Block Island represents 365 days of fun. Be sure to also join us for holidays and special occasions.

Photo by Michael Melford

34 Close To Home, A World Away

Photo by Celeste Sloman

Photo by Kari McGarry

Photo by Celeste Sloman

www.blockislandinfo.com

Photo by Celeste Sloman

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Medical Center Pt. Judith and New London Ferry Docks (Page 8) 17. 19.

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www.blockislandinfo.com

Close To Home, A World Away 35

Accommodations Cozy bed-and-breakfasts, elegant Victorian hotels, quaint seaside cottages and sprawling beach houses. Block Island has a variety of accommodations to fit your personal taste and budget.

Our hotels and inns have staff whose business is your comfort. You’ll be treated to personalized service, majestic views, impeccably designed rooms and delicious food at any in-town accommodations.

If you are looking to get away from the friendly bustle B&Bs, Cottages and Guest Houses Appleyard Guest House (401) 466-5504 or (800) 825-6254 Center Road Apartments (401) 466-5504 or (800) 825-6254 Chapel Street Apartment (401) 466-5504 or (800) 825-6254 Crescent Beach Cottage (401) 466-2551 Crescent Pond Cottage (401) 466-2033 Dewey Cottage (401) 466-2421 Dodge Cottage (401) 466-2421 or (800) 626-4773 E&M B&B (401) 466-5038 Fagan Cottage (401) 466-5383 Figurehead Suite (401) 466-5504 or (800) 825-6254 Fitness Center Apartments (401) 466-5504 or (800) 825-6254 Flounder Inn B&B (401) 465-2614 Harbor Pond View (401) 466-5831 Harbourview (401) 466-5497 Island Manor Timeshares (866) 469-8222 Islebless Cottage (401) 466-5504 or (800) 825-6254 Jim-Dorrie House (401) 466-3000 Maple Leaf Cottage (401) 466-2065 36 Close To Home, A World Away

Photo by Michael Melford

BLOCK ISLAND Accommodations

of town, a number of Island homes, from the traditional to the ultra-modern, are available

to rent.

A list of hotels and inns is below. Log on to the Tourism

Mason Hall Condo (401) 466-5504 or (800) 825-6254 McCombe’s Guest House (401) 466-2684 Meadow View House (401) 466-2034 Mitchell Cottage (401) 466-5053 Neptune House Timeshare (401) 466-2100 Ocean Views B&B (401) 466-2493 Payne’s Beach Avenue Apartments (401) 466-2834 Perry Cottage (401) 466-2342 Suite Dreams (401) 466-8600 Torrey Guest House (401) 466-5504 or (800) 825-6254 Upstairs B&B (401) 466-2627 Water Street Suites (401) 466-5504 or (800) 825-6254 Willow Grove B&B (401) 466-2896 Windrose B&B (401) 466-2912

Harborside Inn (401) 466-5504 or (800) 825-6254 Hotel Manisses (401) 466-2421 or (800) 626-4773 Narragansett Inn (401) 466-2626 National Hotel (401) 466-2901 or (800) 225-2449 Spring House (401) 466-5844 or (800) 234-9263

Hotels (more than 20 rooms) Atlantic Inn (401) 466-5883 or (800) 224-7422 Champlin’s Resort and Marina (401) 466-7777 or (800) 762-4541

Hotels (fewer than 20 rooms) Anchor House (401) 466-5021 or (800) 730-0181 Ashley House (401) 466-5504 or (800) 825-6254 Avonlea Jewel of the Sea (401) 466-5891 or (800) 992-7290 Ballard’s Inn (401) 466-2231 or (401) 334-1997 Barrington Inn (401) 466-5510 or (877) 324-4667 Bellevue House (401) 466-2912 Blue Dory Inn (401) 466-5891 or (800) 992-7290 Gables Inn (401) 466-2213 Gothic Inn (401) 466-2918 or (800) 944-8991 Hendrickson House (401) 466-5504 or (800) 825-6254 Highview Inn (401) 466-5504 or (800) 825-6254 Hygeia House (401) 466-9616

Council website (www.blockislandinfo.com) to find Block Island real estate agents who will assist you in finding an Island rental to house your family in style and comfort. Also look for package deals, spa days, romantic getaways, restaurant weeks and more!

Can’t get away for a summer holiday? No problem. Many hotels, inns and houses are available for rent at reduced rates during the spring and fall.

The perfect time for nature walks, birding and fishing.

Inn at Block Island (401) 466-5524 or (877) 324-4667 Inn at Old Harbor (401) 466-2932 Island Home (401) 466-5944 or (888) 261-6118 New Shoreham House (401) 466-2605 or (800) 825-6254 Old Bakery Inn (401) 466-5504 or (800) 825-6254 Old Town Inn (401) 466-5958 Payne’s Harborview Inn (401) 466-5758 Rose Farm Inn (401) 466-2034 Sea Breeze Inn (401) 466-2275 or (800) 786-2276 Seacrest Inn (401) 466-2882 Sheffield House (401) 466-2494 1661 Inn (401) 466-2421 or (800) 626-4773 Sullivan House (401) 466-5020 Water Street Inn (401) 466-2605 or (800) 825-6254

Fall and spring e. specials availabl Go to .com sl ki bloc andinfo for more information.

www.blockislandinfo.com

BLOCK ISLAND Dining and Nightlife

Casual Dining Aldo’s Bakery (401) 466-2198 Aldo’s Restaurant (401) 466-5871 Ballard’s Inn (401) 466-2231 Beachead (401) 466-2249 Bethany’s Airport Diner (401) 466-3100 Cheescake Castle and Cafe (401) 466-7994 Club Soda (401) 466-5397 Dead Eye Dick’s (401) 466-2654 Eli’s (401) 466-5230 Ernie’s (401) 466-2473 Finn’s (401) 466-2473 www.blockislandinfo.com

Island Nightlife

Photo by Celeste Sloman

From family-friendly to fine dining, Block Island boasts a range of restaurants to satisfy hungry visitors.

Seafood lovers will delight in the dizzying number of ways our local chefs prepare fresh catch. Many of the Island’s most beloved seafood joints are less than a five-minute walk from the beach or ferry. Bite into one of our legendary fish sandwiches, snack on clam cakes or mahimahi, feast on buckets of shrimp and enjoy the spectacular ocean views.

But Block Island offers more than just seafood. There are a number of eclectic options to suit every palate. Hungry for falafel, eggplant rollatini, sushi, pad thai or bagels, Block Island has something for everyone.

A romantic getaway wouldn’t be complete without one night of elegance. Our awardwinning restaurants offer dining experiences that will make it an evening of magic you’ll never forget. Dine by candlelight; share dinner-for-two on the porch of a

After a day of swimming, fishing, sailing or hiking, you need to relax … just not too much!

A whole other Island adventure awaits you after dark.

Block Island bars and nightclubs are some of the best in New England. You’ll find local brews, mudslides and mixed drinks and margarita madness. Best of all, the Island’s many bars and clubs offer live music that will keep you dancing well into the night.

2008

Photo by Brad Marthens

Satisfied Diners

isfy Hungry

How To Sat

Victorian hotel; or step out for a night of old-world elegance at one of our four-star dining establishments. A fine romance isn’t possible without some truly fine dining.

Froozies Juice Bar and Cafe (401) 466-2230 Gatsby Room (401) 466-2836 G.R. Sharkey’s (401) 466-9900 Harbor Grill (401) 466-2828 Harry’s Cafe (401) 466-5400 Ice Cream Place (401) 466-2145 Juice ‘n’ Java (401) 466-5220 Mohegan Cafe and Brewery (401) 466-5911 National Hotel Tap & Grille (401) 466-2901 Oar Restaurant (401) 466-8820 Old Harbor View Takeout Old Post Office Bagel Shop (401) 466-5959

Appetites

On and On

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Menus of most local restaurants are published in Block Dining, available on the Island and at www.blockislandtimes.com.

Menus Also

Payne’s New Harbor Dock (401) 466-9825 Pizza Plus (401) 466-9939 Rebecca’s on the Beach Rebecca’s (401) 466-5411 Swashbucklers (401) 466-2822 Three Sisters (401) 466-9661 Water Street Cafe (401) 466-5540 Wetherbee’s (401) 466-5900

Available

On-Line at:

s.com

islandtime

www.block

Winfield’s (401) 466-5856 Taverns and Nightclubs Albion Pub (401) 466-9990 Captain Nick’s (401) 466-5670 Club Soda (401) 466-5397 Mahogany Shoals McGovern’s Yellow Kittens Tavern (401) 466-5855

Fine Dining Atlantic Inn (401) 466-5883 or (800)-224-7422 Hotel Manisses (401) 466-2421 or (800) 626-4773 Spring House (401) 466-5844 or (800) 234-9263 Close To Home, A World Away 37

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A Block Island Wedding is available on the Island and at www.blockislandtimes.com.

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Wedding

Photo by John Fuller

Photo by John Fuller

WEDDINGS & CONFERENCES Weddings What’s the key to a memorable wedding? Location, location, location.

It is one of the most important days of your life, so make it one you’ll never forget. Block Island offers a variety of spectacular settings that will guarantee your wedding will be a classic. Have your reception at one of the Island’s many seaside Victorian hotels. Exchange your vows on one of our breathtaking beaches as the waves crash along the shoreline. Walk down the aisle in one of the Island’s distinctively New England churches. Or tie the knot at the majestic Mohegan Bluffs as the sun sets in the distance.

38 Close To Home, A World Away

As a popular wedding destination, the Island is well-equipped to cater to your every need.

From flower arrangements to catering to wedding photographs, you’ll find a wealth of on-island options to fit your budget.

Make it more than just a ceremony. Make it a wedding weekend filled with bicycling, swimming and hiking. After a day soaking rays on the beach or hitting the nature trails, enjoy cocktails on the deck of one of our landmark hotels, dinner at an award-winning restaurant or live entertainment at an Island bar or nightclub. There’s so much to do.

It’s like having a wedding and a honeymoon rolled into one!

Conferences Hosting an ornithology conference? Wining and dining prospective clients? Trying to impress business executives or politicians from out of state?

Block Island’s the place to be.

Despite its small size, the Island has played host to some big events. The Audubon Society takes advantage of the Island’s reputation as a haven for birders to host its annual conference here. Recently, officials from the U.S. Small Business Administration used the Island to highlight Rhode Island’s unique offerings. And this spring, the Island will once again host the Block Island Poetry Project,

a series of poetry-themed workshops organized by Lisa Starr, Rhode Island’s Poet Laureate.

Come experience the benefits of hosting a high-profile event in an intimate community setting. Your attendees and guests will love exploring Block Island together.

www.blockislandinfo.com

The Atlantic Inn Veranda Lawn and Lounge

When you’re looking for an unforgettable evening with breathtaking views, the Atlantic Inn will satisfy you. Whether you enjoy tapas and cocktails on the veranda or our award winning menu inside, you’re in for a relaxing taste of Block Island tradition and romance.

Atlantic Inn Ad Since 1879

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www.atlanticinn.com

New London to Block Island in just over one hour!

(401) 466-2212 (860) 444-GO B.I. (4624) www.goblockisland.com Frequent Daily Departures Seasonal Service

www.blockislandinfo.com

Photos courtesy of Cindy Horovitz Wilson and Michael Melford

Service between New London and Old Harbor, Block Island at speeds of over 40mph.

Within walking distance of restaurants, shops, hotels and the best beaches in the Northeast.

Close To Home, A World Away 39