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A NATURAL LOOKING TAN TO SUIT EVERY SKIN TONE
MARCH 2013
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MARCH 2013 • VOLUME 97 • NUMBER 3
BEAUTY FASHION
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BEAUTY FASHION www.beautyfashion.com
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MARCH 2013
On the cover:
St. Tropez is the premiere self tan brand that provides a healthy, natural-looking bronze glow. For over a decade, our award-winning products have been the choice of celebrities on and off the red carpet. Our extensive range of products allows you to customize a tan that is right for you—a subtle golden glow or a deep, dark tan—and everyone from the fairest to the deepest complexions can enjoy beautiful, radiant skin. We are more than self tan; we’ve created a new category in skin finishing—to reveal gorgeous, glowing skin. Our awardwinning Aromaguard™ Fragrance Technology virtually eliminates that tell-tale self tan aroma. Easy to apply and long-lasting, you’ll never get dressed…or undressed without St. Tropez.
A NATURAL LOOKING TAN TO SUIT EVERY SKIN TONE
AT-COUNTER 34
A Walk On The Line Side…With AMOREPACIFIC
THEBEAUTYBIZ 10
Beauty Flash
14
Maggie Ciafardini Helms PZ Cussons Beauty In The Americas
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Industry Ear
20
The NPD Group And CEW Present “Hot Off The Press” The Beauty Industry’s 2012 Year In Review And Trendspotting
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Garnier’s 10-Year Success Story
26
Ivanka Trump Fragrance At Macy’s
27
UK’s Mail Online A Digital Juggernaut Stateside, Too
28
Hope For A Cure Beyond Beauty Benefits OCD Research
30
As I See It -Wendy Liebmann
35
The Elements Of Beauty
37
ScentWorld™ Sets Records At 4th Annual Conference
38
A Fragrance/Food Odyssey
© 2013 BY BEAUTY FASHION. No reproduction of material contained herein without express permission of the copyright owner. Reproduction by photographic or any method will be treated as willful violation of the copyright laws.
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© Clinique Laboratories, LLC
Visibly reduces dark spots equal to a leading prescription ingredient. Just 4 weeks to a more even skin tone. At 12 weeks, a confirmed 58% improvement. Even traces of acne past will be improved. On all skin tones. Here’s our promise. Use Even Better Clinical Dark Spot Corrector twice a day, never forget the sunscreen. And get results you will see. What does a 58% improvement look like? See it now at clinique.com/evenbetter
MARCH 2013 • VOLUME 97 • NUMBER 3
BEAUTY FASHION
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THEPARTYSCENE 49
On The Avenue
THELATESTLAUNCHES 18
HANEL’s Choices: Coco Mademoiselle C And Mascara
18
Marc Jacobs’ Daisy Chain
24
Secret Agent
25
Estée Lauder Cruising The Caribbean
32
L’Esprit Française A French Flirt
33
Diorama: Gloss And Glamour
39
Shiseido’s Maskerade Ball And Bright Ideas
40
Sephora And Pantone Wearing The Green
49
Calvin Klein’s Summer Vacation He Sells Seashells By The Seashore
56
Bottega Veneta’s Waterfall
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FOREIGNCORRESPONDENTS 41
Brazil Beauty Brief -Fernanda Bonifacio
REGIONALCORRESPONDENTS 42
South Florida Scene -Kay Renz
43
Atlanta Peach -Toni M. Lublin
EVERYMONTH 8
Editorial
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ComingUp
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DIOR.COM
EDiTORiAL THINK GLOBAL, ACT LOCAL It’s all about global reach and international brands this month as Beauty Fashion highlights up-and-coming brands from around the globe—PZ Cussons Beauty and AMOREPACIFIC—that are now in the US. We have given them major coverage as they seek to expand their presence on the American retail scene. Also on the subject of retail, please take note of this month’s “Beauty Flash,” which features Aramis and Designer Fragrances teaming up with Saks Fifth Avenue for the launch of the Marni fragrance—just the latest in a long line of fragrances that underscores the enduring and successful partnership between Saks and The Estée Lauder Companies. Thank you again for all of your support, and look for us at retail in the coming weeks. There is no better time to be in-store and at-counter than springtime. See you soon…
George Ledes President and CEO
MA R C H 2 0 1 3 /
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photo by M. McVeigh
THEBEAUTYBIZ Consuelo Castiglioni (c.) with Saks’ Ondine Lamstein and Wendy Gottfried
APRIL A store tour with Victorinox Victorinox Swiss Army’s Becky Spalthoff, Jason Gellen and Debra Vittone
Interview with InterParfums Luxury Brands’ new Chief Executive Officer Stanislas Archimbault Beauty Ball celebrates March of Dimes’ 75th Anniversary
Mr. Sadove and Consuelo Castiglioni with Saks Fifth Avenue’s Deborah Walters
Mr. Sadove, cuffed with a Marni bracelet blotter, chats with Saks’ Suzy Johnson and Karyn Benvenuto.
Consuelo Castiglioni and Mr. Freda with Aramis and Designer Fragrances’ Veronique Gabai-Pinsky
Aramis and Designer Fragrances’ Carol Russo and Andrea Goris
Saks Fifth Avenue celebrated the exclusive launch of Marni’s first fragrance with a private event at the New York flagship store hosted by Marni Designer Consuelo Castiglioni. Ms. Castiglioni involved herself in every step of the Marni fragrance creation process. She worked closely with Givaudan’s Perfumer Daniela Andrier to create a subtly addictive and timeless olfactory experience. The fragrance, introduced by Aramis and Designer Fragrances, evolved under Ms. Castiglioni’s direction to a final olfactory narrative with a multifaceted subtleness. Veronique Gabai-Pinsky, Group President of Aramis Designer Fragrances, praised the “amazing partnership” with Saks Fifth Avenue as well as Ms. Castiglioni’s guidance, which “helped us go where we didn’t think we could go.”
MA R C H 2 0 1 3 /
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photo by M. McVeigh
photo by M. McVeigh
Caroline Castiglione (c.) and Gianni Castiglioni (2nd r.) with Mr. Sadove, Consuelo Castiglione and Mr. Frasch
photo by M. McVeigh
Saks Fifth Avenue’s Steve Sadove and Ron Frasch (r.) with Consuelo Castiglioni and The Estée Lauder Companies’ Fabrizio Freda
photo by M. McVeigh
photo by M. McVeigh
MARNI FRAGRANCE DEBUTS AT SAKS
Caroline and Consuelo Castiglioni stand by Saks’ window devoted to Marni fragrance.
BF
CONTRIBUTING editors&columnists CONTRIBUTING EDITORS
Italy Simona Barello simona.barello@gmail.com Fax: +39-06-59887673
Marc Rosen marc@mra-nyc.com
France Sarah Colton sarahcolton@sarahcolton.com Fax: 011-331-45885386
UK Lorraine Wilson-Morris lorraine@esprit-magazine.co.uk
Australia Andrea Ferrari andrea@esprit-magazine.com.au
Brazil Fernanda Bonifacio mfmbonifacio@hotmail.com
Germany Heide Kuhn-Winkler info@hkw-pressoffice.de Fax: 011-49-621-400-6065
Spain Julia Rossi juliarossi@hotmail.es
REGIONAL COLUMNISTS
Seattle, WA Mary Elizabeth Cronin tel.: (206) 284-8998 mecronin@mecronin.com
Raleigh, NC Bridgette A. Lacy tel.: (919) 872-4234 bridgettelacy@att.net
Boston, MA Brittany Jasnoff tel.: (617) 262-9700 bjasnoff@hotmail.com
Colorado Hilary Martin tel.: (303) 499-6244 fax: (303) 499-6245 winedunce@gmail.com
Chicago, IL Lisa D. Lenoir tel.: (773) 643-0238 lenol66@aol.com
Dallas/Fort Worth, TX Normita Joven tel.: (214) 504-6157 normita.beautyfashion@gmail.com
Washington, DC Bernadette Lacy tel.: (571) 451-4187 bernie368@gmail.com
Houston, TX Mary Sit tel./fax: (713) 973-6798 maryesit@gmail.com
Richmond, VA Emily Kirkpatrick eskirkpatrick@gmail.com
Los Angeles to La Jolla, CA Lynn D. Ludlam tel.: (760) 295-6999 lynndludlam@aol.com
Atlanta, GA Toni M. Lublin tel.: (404) 874-6998 toni_lublin@yahoo.com
San Francisco, CA Raphaella Barkley tel.: (775) 849-7724 raphaellabrescia@msn.com
South Florida Kay Renz kayrenzpr@aol.com
A NATURAL LOOKING TAN TO SUIT EVERY SKIN TONE
ST.TROPEZ’S AWARD-WINNING SELF TAN BRONZING MOUSSE DELIVERS AN INSTANT, STREAK-FREE BRONZE GLOW THAT LASTS FOR DAYS. Available at www.sttropeztan.com
THEBEAUTYBIZ
HELMS PZ CUSSONS BEAUTY IN THE AMERICAS Beauty Fashion sat down with Maggie Ciafardini, Managing Director, The Americas, at PZ Cussons Beauty, to discuss her vision for the brands in the company’s portfolio and how she is raising consumer awareness going forward. Ms. Ciafardini also visited two Sephora stores, which is an important channel of distribution for PZ Cussons Beauty’s St. Tropez line.
PZ
Cussons was founded in 1884 by two traders, cations for M·A·C worldwide,” Ms. Ciafardini informed. George Paterson and George Zochonis as Pater- “She understands the value of getting the word out in a son, Zochonis and Company Ltd. in England. “They had creative way. We are working with two PR companies in a lot of personal-care products, soaps, detergents and the US and one in Canada who are helping consumers household goods,” Ms. Ciafardini explained. The company discover our products through targeted brand was renamed PZ Cussons Plc. In 2002 and more recently messaging.” they purchased beauty brands, including Charles “There is a diversity of brands in the PZ Cussons Beauty Worthington, The Sanctuary Spa brand and St. Tropez. portfolio,” she noted, “but there is a common thread Following the formation of PZ Cusamong all of them—accessible sons Beauty LLP in 2011, the comluxury. We want to bring profespany acquired Fudge, an Austrasional results to the consumer at lian hair brand. home. There is a different custom“It’s great to have a parent comer for each brand.” pany that not only has the funds to “St. Tropez is our core brand. help us but has the patience to For the customer who wants to want us to grow slowly and surely,” look fabulous with a glow that Ms. Ciafardini affirmed. “The North lasts year round, they can use St. American division, especially the Tropez products to get the glow. US, is a major focus of PZ Cussons You can apply St. Tropez at home Beauty going forward.” and look like you’ve had a profesShe maintains “it is important to sional spray tan.” let the retailers know about the Ms. Ciafardini never thought corporate heritage of PZ Cussons she needed St. Tropez because Beauty, which shows a consistent “I’m Italian and have color to my effort and support system. Howevskin. But when I use St. Tropez, it er, the consumer becomes more just gives my skin a flawless, even emotionally attached to a product finish. We call it skin-finishing. and a brand. I am product- and Along with hair styling and makebrand-loyal, so I want it to be all up, St. Tropez produces flawless about the efficacy of the products.” skin from head to toe. St. Tropez is “When St. Tropez was acquired PZ Cussons Beauty’s celebrity PZ Cussons Beauty’s Maggie Ciafardini by PZ Cussons Beauty, Michelle brand and has drawn many superFeeney was heading the brand. She was asked to stay on stars as customers. to merge all of the beauty brands,” Ms. Ciafardini continThe strategy for the St. Tropez collection has been very ued. “Michelle and I had worked together in the past at successful in the US, she said. “We seeded the brand on The Estée Lauder Companies, and she asked me to start a QVC to educate the consumer. We started at Sephora beauty division in North and South America. I was very with 30 doors in 18 inches of space two years ago, and excited to take on this role because I love being entrepre- are now in all Sephora stores with between four to six neurial and I love Michelle.” shelves in full linear in skincare. We also see a big oppor“Michelle is an expert in public relations and commu- tunity for St. Tropez in Canada where we are launching nications, having formerly headed up global communi- with 36 Sephora stores.” (Continued on page 19) MA R C H 2 0 1 3 /
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THEBEAUTYBIZ
MAGGIE CIAFARDINI
Experience the excitement of our creative process; from discovery through development, to the emotional pleasure and celebration of the final product. Join us and enjoy the journey.
www.givaudan.com
THEBEAUTYBIZ
March of Dimes celebrates its 75th anniversary with beauty industry partners at the 38th Annual Beauty Ball. CBS 2 Coanchor Kristine Johnson will emcee the dinner program, which includes an auction led by CK Swett of Phillips de Pury, and a “dance party” headlined by deejay DJ Cassidy. Lancôme partners with fashion designer Jason Wu for a collection that will be in stores in September. Silvia Galfo, SVP of Marketing at Lancôme maintains, “by partnering with Jason, we are able to reach an even more fashion-savvy and sophisticated woman.”
Veronique Gabai-Pinsky
The Pratt Institute Art of Packaging Award Gala, benefiting the Marc Rosen Scholarship and Education Fund for Packaging by Design at Pratt Institute will honor Veronique Gabai-Pinsky and the Aramis & Designer Fragrances division of The Estée Lauder Companies for its outstanding commitment to package design on April 30, 2013. Fashion Fragrances & Cosmetics Ltd. Is celebrating the 65th anniversary of FRACAS de Robert Piguet. A gala party will be held during Esxence in Milan, Italy, on March 23 to honor FRACAS.
NIVEA’s newly-designed packaging across all products
NIVEA USA developed a new “design language” to revamp the look and feel of the brand’s packaging and create a new logo. The newly-designed NIVEA products are available now at food, drug and mass merchandisers nationwide. The Finalists breakfast for The Fragrance Foundation Awards 2013 will be at the Mandarin Oriental in New York City on April 19. RSVP to awardsbreakfast@fragrance.org. Cosmetic Executive Women (CEW) has partnered with 24 Seven in a national study to examine the state of careers in the beauty industry. The survey will provide insight on the attitudes and behaviors of those working in the industry. Avon has appointed David Powell as Senior Vice President of Business Transformation & Global Supply Chain. Mr. Powell reports to Sheri McCoy, Avon’s Chief Executive Officer, and will join the company’s Executive Committee. LUXE PACK NEW YORK 2013 will add more exhibit space and exhibitors to its show to be held May 15-16 at Manhattan’s Altman Building and Metropolitan Pavilion.
Suzi Weiss-Fischmann, Co-Founder & Artistic Director of OPI Products Inc. will be the Honoree at the Delete Blood Cancer Gala at Cipriani Wall Street on May 1, and Harper’s Bazaar’s Editor in Chief, Glenda Bailey, will present the award. The event will benefit Delete Blood Cancer DKMS, the world’s largest bone marrow donor center. Mark your calendar for beauty’s biggest product development event, HBA Global Expo & Conference taking place June 18-20, 2013 at the Javits Center in New York. Visit www.hbaexpo.com for more information, as well as updates on monthly educational Webinars and the International Package Design Awards (IPDA) recognizing the best in beauty and personal-care packaging innovations. Symrise acquires the Belmay Group’s global fragrance activities. This will expand the company’s focus on fine fragrances, personal care and air care. Symrise has strengthened its creative pool with the addition of Dr. George Preti from the Monell Chemical Senses Center, Philadelphia, PA, to its Scientific Advisory Board for Fragrances and Oral Care. MA R C H 2 0 1 3 /
Danica Patrick
O P I S p o k e swo m a n Danica Patrick was the first woman to win a pole position in NASCAR’s premier division. Ms. Patrick stars in the OPI ad campaign with t h e t h e m e “ E n d u rance.”
Anne Fulenwider, Editor-in-Chief of Marie Claire, announced that Jennifer Goldstein has been named Executive Beauty and Health Editor. Duane Reade has expanded its digital and social footprint through its integration with Ingress, a multiplayer location-based mobile game from Niantic Labs at Google.
Duane Reade has partnered with Ingress.
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Only 4% of all Americans aged 15 to 25 think that a brand page on Facebook is a credible source of information about the product, according to an InSites Consulting survey.
THEBEAUTYBIZ
INDUSTRY EAR
INDUSTRY EAR Sun & Skin Care Research (SSCR, LLC) has completed the acquisition of the sunscreen brand Bull Frog.
during April for the price of $12.00—is one of the brand’s fundraising vehicles. Lane Bryant’s new 7,835 squarefoot flagship store is located on 34th Street in New York City, near Herald Square. Customers will experience a new look consistent with the recent branding efforts offering Fashion for every day. Style just for you.
Italian Model Bianca Balti stars as the classic Mediterranean beauty in the advertising campaign for Dolce & Gabbana’s Light Blue fragrances. The campaign was directed by Mario Testino. L’Oréal’s Chairman and Chief Executive Officer Jean Paul Agon reported that”2012 was a good year for L’Oréal on many fronts.” Sales were +10.4% based on reported figures; +6.2% excluding currency fluctuations and +5.5% like-for-like. Operating profit was +12.3% at 16.5% of sales; net profit after non-controlling interests was +17.6%; net earnings per share were +13.6% at 4.91 euros; dividend +15% at 2.30 euros and net cash flow +26.4% at 2.58 billion euros. Mr. Agon declared that 2012 accelerated the Group’s internationalization as the “New Markets” became the number-one geographic zone.
Procter & Gamble (P&G)’s Olay kicked off a special online contest that seeks ideas and proposals to reinvent its Olay Pro-X line of skincare products. The contest, with a first prize of $5,000, is open to residents of the US and Canada. The goal of the contest is to defy expectations and reinvent Olay Pro-X for beauty-involved skincare shoppers.
The new Lane Bryant store on 34th Street
Glamour has debuted Glam Belleza Latina, a new title u n d e r t h e m a g a z i n e ’s umbrella, targeting the next generation in beauty for Latina women. The first issue’s cover features Jennifer Lopez with an article on her life, love and the diverse beauty found in Hispanic culture.
Women in Flavor & Fragrance Commerce (WFFC) announced the 2013 scholarship award recipients. Laruen Musumeci received the 2013 Rita Flynn Memorial Fragrance Scholarship Award. Kayla Babbush was given the 2013 WWFC Flavor Scholarship Award. Aveda highlights April as Earth Month by setting a goal to raise $5 million in 30 days for the protection of clean water. The Aveda Light the Way Candle—sold exclusively
Glam Belleza Latina debuts.
The good news for Elle, Harper’s Bazaar, InStyle, Marie Claire, Vogue and W is that they all had advertising-page strong first quarters in 2013. The bad news is that all were down in newsstand sales in second-half 2012. That negative trend reflects nearly the entire magazine industry. Steve Cohn, Editor in Chief, Media Industry Newsletter
MIN’S Monthly Boxscores Source: Media Industry Newsletter <<>> 2013. Title
% of Diff.
YTD 2013
YTD 2012
% of Diff.
March 2013
March 2012
Allure
122.19
144.20
-15.26
294.97
274.15
7.59
Cosmopolitan
142.38
116.97
21.72
298.16
265.64
12.24
Elle
332.48
313.96
5.90
552.09
499.38
10.56
Glamour
160.31
182.07
-11.95
290.77
289.52
0.43
Harper’s Bazaar
330.90
271.98
21.66
452.66
365.90
23.71
InStyle
360.92
347.04
4.00
558.70
531.85
5.05
Lucky
102.28
106.24
-3.73
175.19
174.50
0.40
Marie Claire
208.26
179.86
15.79
322.30
287.25
12.20
Vogue
456.86
442.44
3.26
671.02
637.61
5.24
W
210.00
203.50
3.19
327.97
309.50
5.97
MA R C H 2 0 1 3 /
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THELATESTLAUNCHES
C
HANEL sizes up the Spring/ Summer season with a new 6.8-oz. limited edition of the Coco Mademoiselle Eau de Pa r f u m S p r a y, priced at $195.00. (The 1.7-oz. Eau de Parfum Spray retails for $85.00.) Th e D u o S e t offers a 6.8-oz. Moisturizing Body Lotion paired with the 1.7-oz. Coco Mademoiselle Eau de Parfum Spray for a complementary reinforcement to the fragrance. Coco Mademoiselle Eau de Parfum Spray
Both are housed in the signature CHANEL packaging for $135.00. A sensually scented body requires a sensual eye, and Le Volume de CHANEL delivers just that: dramatic mascaras in two new drop-dead shades— bold purple and modern blue. They are accompanied by the “Snowflakes” spiral brush that combines long bristles to evenly coat the lashes, and small ones to separate and build volume ($30.00). All the products above are available this month at specialty and select department stores, as well as on chanel.com.
Le Volume de Chanel mascara with “Snowflakes” spiral brushes
BF MA R C H 2 0 1 3 /
DAISY CHAIN “Daisy, Daisy, give your answer, do! I’m half crazy, all for the love of you! Marc Jacobs, with a song in his heart, says it with flowers this season. His two limited-edition offerings—sunsplashed offshoots of the iconic Daisy fragrance provide an answer. Both scents in the Daisy Marc Jacobs Sunshine Edition are floral and fruity, feminine and flirtatious, and both are the creations of Harry Fremont of Firmenich. First up is the goldenhued Daisy Sunshine with top notes of red currant, guava and juicy mandarin. Its heartbeat is a bouquet combining lily of the valley, violet and lychee that dries down to base notes of apricot skin, blonde woods and musks. It is priced at $65.00 for 1.7 oz. The second scent—the lemonade-pink Daisy Eau So Fresh—is playful, if headier and fruitier than the original Daisy fragrance, as evidenced by its composition. Its top notes of strawberry, apple blossom and pink grapeDaisy Eau So Fresh fruit blend into mid-notes of jasmine petals, day lily and rose. The Daisy Sunshine base notes consist of violet leaf, white oak moss and amber wood. The 2.5-oz. eau de toilette spray retails for $75.00. Daisies bloom from their bottle caps and a multicolored daisy chain adorns the borders of the glossy white outer cartons. Both will be available this month at specialty retailers nationwide. BF 18
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THELATESTLAUNCHES
MARC JACOBS’
CHANEL’S CHOICES: COCO MADEMOISELLE AND MASCARA
MAGGIE CIAFARDINI HELMS PZ CUSSONS BEAUTY IN THE AMERICAS (continued from page 14)
Member can sell her makeup and skincare products, and St. Tropez is an add-on.” “Our team goes into as many Sephora stores as possible, but can’t cover the over 300 doors nationwide where St. Tropez is available. We are also in the Sephora stores inside JCPenney, which reach a wider audience than the typical, freestanding stores. To train the Cast Members in every door, we worked with our wonderful Sephora partner and put together a ‘Training-in-a-Box.’ PZ Cussons Beauty’s Yvonne Moore, Lauren Lepore, Krista Schwen, Alison Gavurnik, Sonia Garcia, The black box with a St. Tropez Sophie Evans, Fiona Locke and Laurie Kilkenny at the St. Tropez 2013 Sales Meeting label on top contains our key According to Ms. Ciafardini, Latin America is a critical products with a script. Each Store Director demonstrates market for St. Tropez, which works well on all skin types. the products to educate their Cast Members.” It has been launched in Mexico and is about to enter the Ms. Ciafardini’s personal goal is to tan every person in Brazilian market. “We have hired a Latin American North and South America. She hopes to get closer to that celebrity Makeup Artist who works a lot with Telemundo,” goal with a new infomercial on St. Tropez, which features she said. “We went to Mexico with a Spanish-speaking testimonials from enthusiastic customers who have tried Account Executive on our team to do extensive training the products. in Mexico, as well as set up magazine editorial coverage The infomercial includes a segment with Dr. Lawrence with our team there. We will do the same with the Brazilian Samuels, Chief of Dermatology at St. Luke’s Washington market.” University School of Medicine in St. Louis. “Dr. Samuels “Our definition of beauty has changed to a more loves St. Tropez,” Ms. Ciafardini confided, “but he doesn’t global look,” she noted. “When you think about beautiful love the sun and what it does to our skin, not only from women today, Beyoncé or Jennifer Lopez come to mind. an aging perspective but also because of the sun’s damSt. Tropez appeals to a broad range of women by offering aging rays.” luminous, radiant skin for all.” The St. Tropez line does 60% of its business in the sea“The Sephora Cast Members love St. Tropez,” she son that runs from February 15 through July. “The rest of declared. “We are giving every Sephora Cast Member a our business, 40% to 50%, is completed the rest of the 4-oz. mousse and mitt, because if you try the product, year,” she said. “We ended last year at Sephora with the you are in love with it. Not only is St. Tropez a great Self Tan Bronzing Mousse and mitt ranking #15 in the product, but it provides incremental volume. A Cast retailer’s skincare category. In our ‘season,’ we rank as the #1 SKU in skincare. We are gaining traction, and the momentum is continuing. I believe the infomercial will take us over the top, because it will educate more and more people.” St. Tropez has its own celebrity Tanner, Sophie Evans, who started with the brand in the UK several years ago. She has now moved to the US and is St. Tropez’s specialist in education based on the East Coast. St. Tropez also has a West Coast celebrity Tanner, Fiona Locke. In building the St. Tropez brand, Ms. Ciafardini has pursued a cautious strategy “because we want to do it right. We are launching in ULTA, Lord & Taylor and The Bay and are working with partners who understand how to nurture PZ Cussons Beauty’s Charles Helme, Roxann Paulson, Taylor Peacock, a brand. Our brands are about culture, and you become Monica Butler and Tatiana Foster on a break from the St. Tropez 2013 Sales Meeting very emotionally connected to our products.” (Continued on page 44) MA R C H 2 0 1 3 /
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THEBEAUTYBIZ
“HOT OFF THE PRESS”
The Beauty Industry’s 2012 Year In Review And Trendspotting
T
he NPD Group, in partnership with Cosmetic Executive Women (CEW), presented the US beauty industry’s year-end results at two events. The first, the annual “Hot Off the Press Beauty Industry 2012 Year in Review,” was held on January 24 at New York City’s Harmonie Club. The report, compiled by The NPD Group, covered the skincare, makeup and fragrance categories. After a welcome by Jill Scalamandre, Chairwoman of the CEW board, there were presentations by The NPD Group’s Diane Nicholson, President of Beauty, Accessories & Footwear; Marshal Cohen, Chief Industry Analyst; Karen Grant Senior Global Industry Analyst and Vice President, Beauty; and the SymphonyIRI Group’s Larry SymphonyIRI Group’s Larry Levin, CEW’s Carlotta Jacobson and nd Levin, General Manager of Consumer and Shopper Jill Scalamandre (2 r.), with Sephora’s Margarita Arriagada, NPD’s Diane Nicholson, Karen Grant and Marshal Cohen Insights. According to The NPD Group, the total US prestige beauty industry showed an increase of 7% in dollar sales in 2012 vs. 2011. All of the prestige beauty categories posted healthy growth, with prestige skincare sold in US department stores generating the largest growth at 10%. Makeup was up 7%, and fragrance up 5%. The US Food/Drug/Mass channel experienced nearly a 3% increase in sales for total beauty in 2012 vs. 2011. Makeup sales increased 5%, skincare was up 3% and fragrance sales declined 4% in dollar sales compared to 2011. However, in national chain stores, fragrance sales grew 7%.
Puig USA’s Jerome Leloup, Tania Ropero, Beth Carr and Didier Mane de Biron
AAUW’s Cordy Galligan with IFF’s Anahita Mekanik and Ginny Beltroa
Claudia Lucas of QVC with Mane’s Westly Morris
Stage Stores’ Joan Bolingbroke and Chris Johnston with NPD’s Donna DeMarzo
Arcade Marketing’s Diane Crecca, Coty’s Tom Burkhardt and Mr. Morris
IFF’s Matt Frost with The Estée Lauder Companies’ Trudi Loren
Inter Parfums’ Marine Mamakos, Clarins’ Debbie Nuzzo, Elizabeth Arden’s Laurie Dowley and Macy’s Nancy Schmidt
Macy’s Muriel Gonzalez and Farrell Foster with Ms. Dowley
Firmenich’s Jerry Vittoria and Linda Levy of Parlux
MA R C H 2 0 1 3 /
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THEBEAUTYBIZ
THE NPD GROUP AND CEW PRESENT
The second event on trendspotting in the beauty industry, also at the Harmonie Club on February 5, featured a keynote address by The Estée Lauder Companies’ Group President, North America, Thia Breen, and presentations by Mr. Cohen and Ms. Grant. Ms. Breen sees the prestige beauty category driven by a multicultural woman, with about 40% under the age of
Dior Beauty’s Terry Darland and Lisa Hawkins
Laura Geller of Laura Geller Beauty with Completely Bare’s Cindy Barshop
25 and 50% under 55. She shared that the Baby Boomer woman likes to shop in department stores, while tweens shop in channels ranging from mass to prestige. Ms. Breen declared that “high touch service” is a key differentiator for the brands at retail. Assortments tailored by region are being implemented by retailers. Mane was the exclusive fragrance sponsor of the event. Westly Morris, Senior Vice President Fine Fragrance at Mane commented, “We live in a ‘today’ world, and it’s a great opportunity to support an event dealing with hotoff-the-press information being shared with our clients and the industry at the first major gathering of the New Year. As we re-focus the Mane Fine Fragrance group for new leadership in creativity and innovation, we are proud to align ourselves with strong organizations like CEW that promote and foster leadership for current and future industry executives.”
NPD’s Karyn Schoenbart and Ms. Nicholson with LVMH’s Pamela Baxter
Jonathan Zrihen with Ms. Scalamandre and Ms. Schmidt
Mr. Cohen, Ms. Grant, The Estée Lauder Companies’ Thia Breen and Mane’s Michel Mane
Ms. Dowley, Ms. Jacobson and Ms. Baxter
The Estée Lauder Companies’ Carol Russo, Catherine Barber and Caroline Geerlings with Symrise’s Rhona Stokols
Gurwitch Products’ Dee Dee Parks, Ellen Greenwald and Bonnie Beer
Ms. Jacobson with Elizabeth Arden’s Scott Beattie and Tamara Steele
Parlux’s Diana Espino, Ms. Levy and Angela Budd
Elizabeth Arden’s Susan Debellis and Elizabeth Naramore (r.) with Dillard’s Gary Borofsky
CEW’s Lisa Klein, Mr. Mane, Ms. Jacobson and Mr. Morris
Lord & Taylor’s Barbara Zinn-Moore, Ms. Dowley, Shiseido’s Heidi Manheimer, Ms. Scalamandre and Ms. Schmidt
Ms. Russo with Cosmopolitan’s Lauren Finzizio and Donna Kalajian Lagani
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FRAGRANCE AT MACY’S
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crowd of customers waited patiently for the arrival of Ivanka Trump on the evening of her fragrance launch at Macy’s/Herald Square in New York City. Executives of Macy’s, as well as the Parlux Fragrances team which launched the fragrance, attended the special event at Macy’s HSQ Café where champagne toasts and hors d’oeuvres added to the festive mood.
Macy’s Martine Reardon conducts a Q&A with Ms. Trump.
Ivanka Trump with Macy’s Terry Lundgren
Ms. Trump displays her new fragrance.
Te r r y L u n d g r e n , CEO, Chairman and President of Macy’s introduced Ms. Trump to the friends, fans and fragrance enthusiasts who were invited to stop by Macy’s, meet Ms. Trump and share a photo opportunity with her. In addition, shoppers who made any purchase from her Ivanka Trump fragrance line received an autographed bottle plus an Ivanka Trump b ra n d e d t o t e b a g .
A private reception was held for customers who paid $78.00 for the 3.4-oz. Eau de Parfum. Macy’s CMO, Martine Reardon, introduced Ms. Trump at the fragrance launch as an entrepreneur, fashion designer, style influencer, TV personality, Executive Vice President of Development & Acquisitions of the Trump Organization, as well as a wife and new mother. In a question-and-answer format with Ms. Reardon, Ms. Trump thanked Macy’s for their incredible support of her fragrance launch. “In the crowded fragrance marketplace, there was a void in what I was looking for that suited my age range and lifestyle. There was no [scent] I wanted to wear,” so she decided to create her own by partnering with Parlux Fragrances.
Parlux Fragrances’ Linda Levy with Macy’s Marti Moore and Ms. Reardon
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IVANKA TRUMP
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10-YEAR SUCCESS STORY
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decade ago, Garnier Fructis arrived in America. Already a success in Europe, the brand captured American consumers’ loyalty. “It has succeeded in the US marketplace through its breakthrough innovation,” declared Garnier’s Debora Koyama, Assistant Vice President Marketing. “Garnier revolutionized the hair-care category [with its products] in green and gold packaging at the wall.” “This year we are celebrating 10 years of Fructis in the US, and we are committed to keep re-inventing ourselves, as well as continuing to bring first-to-market, breakthrough innovations—such as the ones we are launching in 2013—they are all “firsts,” Ms. Koyama affirmed. “We are also launching a new advertising and integrated campaign that is debut- Tommy Buckett with Garnier’s Debora ing on March 4th and Koyama at the Pop-up Fructis Blow-Out Bar are also kicking off a great partnership in SXSW in the intersection of Hair, Style and Music.” Both the print and digital campaigns will have the tag line “Find your strength to shine.” Targeted to millennials aged 18 to 34, it’s all about how consumers use hair to express themselves. The ad will appear in 15 magazines. Garnier Fructis has sustained its market share with innovative products driven by innovative technology. The brand has launched the Hydra Recharge collection. Hydra Recharge Fortifying Shampoo is formulated with Superfruit Beads, that Garnier Fructis’ Hydra Recharge release a concentrated collection MA R C H 2 0 1 3 /
dose of anti-oxidants and nutrients when they are in contact with water. The Hydra Recharge Fortifying Conditioner’s superfruits work to fortify hair strands for a silky feel. Other SKUs in the collection are Hydra Recharge 1-Minute Moisture-Plenish Treatment to leave hair ten times more moisturized in one minute, and Moisture Whip, a light foam leave-in conditioner with Superfruits. The collection ranges in price from $3.99 to $5.99. Invisible fruit fibers in Garnier Fructis’ Volume Extend collection strengthen as t h e y t h i ck e n h a i r strands to create 24-hour volume. The line includes Instant Bodifier Dry Shampoo to refresh hair for volume and Fortifying Shampoo with papaya and cucumber extracts to extend volGarnier Fructis’ Volume Extend ume all day. Fortifying collection Conditioner with papaya and cucumber extracts adds softness without heaviness and build-up. The products range in price from $3.99 to $5.99. Consumers can get the glow from head to toe with Garnier Fructis Triple Nutrition Miracle Dry Oil for Hair, Body & Face. This multi-use treatment is formulated with a new generation of dry oils made with nutritive fruit oils. The product can be sprayed on damp or dry hair, on the body and dabbed on the face to hydrate and give skin a glow. It is priced at $5.99. All of the new Garnier Fructis products are available now at drugstores, grocery stores and mass-market retail outlets Head-to-toe treatment nationwide. with Garnier Fructis’ Triple The new Garnier Fructis Nutrition Miracle Dry Oil products were on display during for Hair, Body & Face
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gent Provocateur has captured the essence of dangerous passion with the launch of the new fragrance, Pétale Noir. This scent, introduced by Worth Paris, Inc., epitomizes sensuality and unlocks the darker side of female seduction. The original inspiration for the project was the film O, but it was viewed from the perspective of a modern seductress…more subtle at first viewing, less overt but still determined to get what she wants. Pétale Noir, developed by CPL Aromas, is a deep floral scent with a hint of oriental mystique. Exquisite oils are subtly layered with dramatic floral notes at its heart. Accents of precious woods are enhanced by musk crystals and sweet, spicy accords that ignite the senses. The fragrance opens on a top note of mandarin, water lily, bergamot, violet leaves, hyacinth and magnolia. Its heart of rose otto, rose absolute, ylang ylang, muguet, orris, osmanthus, neroli and cassis blossom is based on a blend of ginger, leather, sandalwood, vetiver, tobacco leaf, amber, musk and cedarwood. The top note of the fragrance represents innocence while the deeper, darker, smoldering base note represents (the female’s) darker side. The proliferation of ingredients in the base shows where the fragrance’s true power lies—sweet, spice and utterly sensual—a modern temptress. The vintage rose pink juice complements the deliThe advertising campaign for Agent Provocateur’s Pétale Noir cately tactile and sensual bottle, produced by Heinz Glas, which is etched with a romantic floral display. be promoted online, as well as in the retailer’s To add a touch of danger, the floral design mingles Smart Sampling program. The fragrance is with prickly thorns. The contrast in mood is further supported by an advertising print campaign in enhanced by a striking black chain symbolizing March issues of key women’s fashion the dark, suggestive passion that binds. magazines tagged with the line, “Exclusively Agent Provocateur’s Pétale Noir is accompaat Nordstrom.” nied by Luxury Body Elixir, which is a blend of Suzanne Lang, Marketing Director of natural oils including gold of pleasure, Worth Paris, Inc., commented, “The frababassu oil, extract of devil’s eyelashes and grance really is a personification of this tephrosia purpurea seeds. The formulation new seductress, as indeed are the delivers moisture to pamper the skin. bottle, the advertising visual and even Pétale Noir Eau de Parfum comes in a the name. The tension lies between the 50-ml size for $87.00 and 100 ml for outward expression of seeming inno$118.00. Luxury Body Elixir comes in a cence and the darker sentiments just 25-ml size for $53.00. The Pétale Noir below the surface. Thus our protagocollection was launched exclusively at nist seems innocent (maybe even in the all Nordstrom locations, on Nordstrom. Garden of Eden as suggested by the ad) com and in Agent Provocateur boutiques. yet the dark thorns that encircle her leg Scented blow-ins for Agent Provocateur give us a feeling that she is perhaps not as innocent as she looks. The name Pétale were included in Nordstrom’s mid-February Noir,” Ms. Lang added, “illustrates perfectly catalog. Agent Provocateur Pétale Noir will be featured in Nordstrom’s upcoming Agent Provocateur’s Pétale Noir is a new this tension…Pétale, soft, floral…Noir, BF Cosmetic Trend Show events and will fragrance with a dark, passionate secret. dark and sinful.” MA R C H 2 0 1 3 /
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Estée Lauder’s Bronze Goddess, Hilary Rhoda
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This Caribbean heat wave is personified by Estée Lauder’s Bronze Goddess, Spokesmodel Hilary Rhoda, who is guaranteed to turn any young man’s fancy to thoughts of love. Her eye-opening presence starts off with lids and lashes that turn up the thermostat with the Limited Edition Pure Color Five Color Eyeshadow Palette in Batik Sun, a brilliant green, gold and nude range from matte to shimmer ($48.00). The Limited Edition Pure Color Liquid Eyeliner Duo in Black Sands defines the eyes with a dualended felt tip wand in smoldering bronze and ebony black ($29.00). To complete the seductive eye, there is Sumptuous Extreme Waterproof Mascara in Extreme Black ($26.00). The tropical lip is served by two tasty solutions. Solution one: Limited Edition Pure Color Sheer Roller Gloss in Succulent and Squeeze that feature a metal roller ball applicator. A formula of fruit extracts keep the lips supple and hydrated. They are lightly flavored with Passion Fruit or Guava Lychee ($18.50 each). Solution two: Limited Edition Pure Color Long Lasting Lipstick in Solar Crush and Fuchsia Fever in pink and tangerine tones, both fadeproof for hours in sun and sea ($25.00 each). All hands are on deck with Limited Edition Pure Color Nail Lacquer in Hot Spell, a coral flash for the nails ($20.00). The sun-kissed face is further enhanced by the Limited Edition Pure Color Illuminating Powder Gelée in Heat Wave ($40.00), the Bronze Goddess Powder Bronzer Collection in four shades—Light, Medium, Medium Deep and Deep ($36.00 each) and the Limited Edition Bronze Goddess Luminous Liquid Bronzer ($28.50). The Pure Color Illuminating Gelée leaves the skin with a polished glow that, because it is “blendable and buildable,” ranges from a subtle to a highly pearlized coverage. Housed in a tortoise shell compact, the Bronze Goddess Powder Bronzer delivers a delicate shimmer, which is also buildable, to provide either a warm, subtle complexion or dramatic facial contouring. The alternative is the
The Bronze Goddess Collection
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f the Ides of March and the lingering chill of winter turn a young woman’s fancy to thoughts of summer, warm sands, sea breezes and beaches, Estée Lauder is front and center. The introduction of the company’s limited edition Bronze Goddess Collection, entirely inspired by the hues and scents of the Caribbean, will fill the bill— with or without the benefit of a cruise ship or an airplane.
IVAN K A T R U MP FRAGRANCE AT MACY’S
10-YEAR SUCCESS STORY
(continued from page 22)
(continued from page 23)
Macy’s Muriel Gonzalez and Ms. Moore
Garnier-Maybelline New York’s Lisa Carvalho with Mr. Buckett
Parlux Fragrances’ Jim Fine, Diana Espino and Amin Rizk
Mr. Buckett styles a guest’s hair at the Pop-up Fructis BlowOut Bar
Ms. Levy with Macy’s Eleanor Neufeld
Ms. Levy and Ms. Moore
Garnier Fructis’ products on display at the Pop-up Fructis Blow-Out Bar
“Like many hardworking women, who have many different roles, I wanted a fragrance that I could wear from day to night. I knew I wanted a floral fragrance, and I partnered with Parlux who [made it happen]. She also shared that her husband “loves it.” She compared introducing a fragrance to “birthing a child.” When asked to name her role model, Ms. Trump declared that “it starts with my mother. She is strong and confident. Glamorous and feminine. I admire people I meet every day and how they conduct themselves. There are incredible people in this world, especially in New York City.” BF MA R C H 2 0 1 3 /
DJ Alexandra Richards is master of the music.
Fashion Week at the first-ever Pop-up Fructis Blow-Out Bar at New York City’s Time Warner Center. Celebrity Stylist Tommy Buckett demonstrated the new products and showcased the latest looks for hair while DJ Alexandra Richards kept the event rocking with rhythm. BF
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A Digital Juggernaut Stateside, Too
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ne Direction—and The New York Times, for that matter—take heed. The latest British phenom has arrived from across the pond and is enthralling American audiences by the millions. Mail Online, the online sister of UK newspaper the Daily Mail, has rapidly evolved into an all-out digital juggernaut. Mail Online is currently the single most popular online newspaper in the world, boasting more than 50 million unique visitors every month. Its tone—sensational and acerbic—is distinctly British, though its focus, particularly Mail Online’s Publisher, Martin Clarke with regard to celebrity news, fashion, lifestyle and human interest coverage, is decidedly American. The site also comprises highly popular world and political news pages. And stateside, audiences are devouring the roughly 1,000 new stories posted daily by a team of more than 150 journalists in London, New York and Los Angeles— in addition to a boatload of accompanying photo and video content. Mail Online’s edit includes — but is not exclusive to—that of the printed Daily Mail, which was first published in 1896 and is now owned by the British media conglomerate, The Daily Mail and General Trust. While its print counterpart touts a minimal presence in the Global Chief Marketing U.S., Mail Online’s readership Officer, Sean O’Neal here has already toppled that of local competitors like people.com, ew.com, Gawker and E! Online. Additionally, its female audience is larger than those of the respective Web sites for every major women’s fashion, beauty and lifestyle title. If the site seems to have arrived and conquered overnight, that’s precisely because it has, noted Sean O’Neal, Mail Online’s Global CMO, during an exclusive interview at the company’s Soho offices. Explosive growth of 5% compounded monthly means that audiences spend the equivalent of 608 years at the site each month and leave 36,000 comments every day. MA R C H 2 0 1 3 /
And the ramifications of these numbers for the beauty industry are huge. The site itself offers a wealth of beauty editorial that comprises product reviews, celebrity trendspotting, runway and red-carpet coverage, shopping tips and more. Mail Online readers over-index for “beauty product purchasing,” O’Neal said, and 8.4 million of its visitors have purchased cosmetics, fragrances, hair care and skincare items in the last six months. To further connect with its vast, affluent, highly engaged and product-hungry readership, Mail Online’s advertising program traverses desktop, mobile, social and video content. The company also integrates e-commerce into its beauty- and fashion-related stories, and hotspotting enables marketers to link purchasing opportunities to celebrity images and videos. Beauty advertisers already include L’Oréal, P&G, Burberry and more. While most publications today are pursuing digital mediums, O’Neal noted that Mail Online’s particular strength—and an as-yet-untapped segment in the market—is the impact of mobile distribution. The average desktop user spends about 11 minutes on the site, whereas smartphone users spend 13 minutes, and iPad users spend a whopping 15 minutes. Mail Online is helmed by Publisher Martin Clarke, who joined the Daily Mail in 1987 and has held numerous editorial positions at the company’s Scottish and Irish divisions over the years. In this month’s British GQ, Clarke was named the 11th most influential man in Britain, and the single most influential Chief Revenue Officer, digital personality in all of Rich Sutton Britain. Other key players on the site’s U.S. executive team include Rich Sutton, who serves as Chief Revenue Officer and oversees North American sales, and O’Neal, who heads global marketing. “Mail Online showcases all that is best about British popular journalism,” Clarke stated. “It is produced using traditional journalistic values and skills that are as old as Fleet Street itself and illustrates not just how its legacy can survive, but how it can evolve and prosper as a global powerhouse in the digital age.” BF
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UK’s
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Hope For A Cure Benefits OCD Research
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he annual Beyond Beauty dinner to benefit The James E. Marshall OCD Foundation supports research on Obsessive Compulsive Disorder (OCD). Linda Marshall, President of Elysée Scientific Cosmetics, started the foundation after losing her son, James E. Marshall, to the disease. He committed suicide just before Valentine’s Day, but in his last words to his mother, he stated that he wanted to “make a difference in the lives of people with OCD.” Since he couldn’t do that, Ms. Marshall has dedicated herself and the Foundation to making it happen. Nine years ago, she organized the first Beyond Beauty event, which was named by Beauty Fashion’s Publisher and Editor Emeritus, John Ledes.
IFF’s Nicolas Mirzayantz, Dionne Warwick, Linda Marshall of Elysée Scientific Cosmetics and Amyay’s George Calvert
Dionne Warwick (3rd l.) with the Marshall family: John, Jadyn, Linda, Jennifer and Ryan
Dr. Gerald Nestat of Johns Hopkins Medicine with Mr. Mirzayantz, Ms. Marshall, Amway’s Mr. Calvert and Nicholas Ratut of Aquila International
Mr. Mirzayantz and Princess Alexandra of Greece with Cosmetic World’s John and George Ledes
Melissa and Scott Beattie of Elizabeth Arden with Morning Joe’s Mika Brzezinski, Ms. Marshall and Mr. Mirzayantz.
Mr. Calvert (2nd l.) with Gurwitch Products’ Ellen Greenwald, Claudia Poccia and Dee Dee Parks
Ann Gottlieb of Ann Gottlieb Associates (2nd l.) with Ron Rolleston, and Elizabeth Arden’s Scott Beattie and Art Spiro
The Estée Lauder Companies’ Karyn Khoury, Cosmetic World’s John Ledes and Jennifer Marshall
Mr. Calvert, Clare Wade, Lori Diamond, Andrea Clark and Maud Pansing
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The Cloudbreak Group’s Tom Butkiewicz with Arcade’s Rich Nightingale and Larry Berman
Gurwitch Products’ Robert Luzzi and Regina Maguire (r.) with Coty’s Catherine Walsh
Pamela Vaile of Pamela Vaile Associates with Arcade’s Diane Crecca and Marine Ravera
Ms. Marshall with Shiseido’s Heidi Manheimer and Carlotta Jacobson of CEW
Andrea Goris and Carol Russo (r.) of Aramis & Designer Fragrances with Francine Klein of Bloomingdale’s
Elizabeth Arden’s Robin Mason and Tamara Steele (r.) with Marie Claire’s Nancy Berger Cardone
Marie Claire’s Jennifer Goldstein, Lauren Krieger, Courtney Gibson and Diane DePaul
IFF’s Doug Tough, Yvette Ross and Bruno Jovanovic (r.) with Ms. Marshall
Shiseido’s Jadzia Tirsch with Liz Kaplow of Kaplow PR
Aurelian Lis of Benefit Cosmetics with Diotima von Kempski of DVK Air Vitalizing and Mr. Mirzayantz
IFF’s Pascal Gaurin and Veronique GabaiPinsky of Aramis & Designer Fragrances with Mark Knitowski of Victoria’s Secret Beauty
Dr. Nestadt with Caroline Pieper-Vogt of ScentWorld and Nicholas Ratut of Aquila International
This year’s Beyond Beauty gala on February 12 was held at New York City’s Union League Club. It honored International Flavors & Fragrances’ Nicolas Mirzayantz, Group President, Fragrances, and Amway’s George Calvert, Chief Supply Chain and R&D Officer. Mika Brzezinski, Co-Host of MSNBC’s “Morning Joe” show, served as emcee. Grammy Award-winning music legend Dionne Warwick provided entertainment with some of her best-known and loved
songs. The Beyond Beauty dinner raised $250,000. The James E. Marshall Foundation has supported research at the Johns Hopkins Department of Psychiatry and Behavioral Sciences, where Dr. Gerald Nestadt is Professor & Director of the Obsessive-Compulsive Disorder Program. Dr. Nestadt spoke of the current research focusing on genes related to OCD, which affects six to eight million people in the US. (Continued on page 46)
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By Wendy Liebmann CEO & Chief Shopper WSL/Strategic Retail
WELCOME TO THE NEW SHOPPING WORLD
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merican shoppers have come to terms with the recession. They recognize it’s not over. Contrary to what economic pundits in Washington say, eight out of ten shoppers told us in our How America Shops® MegaTrends 2012 study that “their” recession would last three or more years. Shoppers recognize that, in spite of a slowly improving economy, economic, social and political upheaval will continue. As a result, they’re taking control of what they can and moving on. Two-thirds of women tell us, “Before I buy something I ask myself, ‘Is this a smart use of my money?’” This has driven many to change where and how they shop, and how they go about it. They shop more places than ever before. They use old and new tools to ensure they make wise decisions. They are no longer firmly wedded to brands or retailers to the degree they were in years past. As a result, the way we have to do business is more and more complex. Of late, there’s been much written about the emerging omnichannel shopper (“omni” defined as people who shop in both a retailer’s physical store and Web site). However, that definition only captures a sliver of shoppers’ choices, and what they actually do now. It goes way beyond “omni” to “hyper.” Whether they’re shopping for commodities, like food, or beauty or clothes, they are shopping—or willing to consider shopping— in more different places than ever before. “Hyper” is the only word for it. As a result, the competitive environment has expanded dramatically. That means retailers who only think their competition lies in similar formats or price points will quickly lose sight of their shoppers, lose trips and sales. We now no longer have the luxury of delivering goods and services to a “one-size-fits-all” world. The days of creating a brand relevant to millions and millions of Anglo shoppers are over. The days of enticing them with messages delivered through one or two major media outlets are over. The days of selling to them through two or three or four big retailers are over. We have finally arrived at a time when the business commu-
nity must understand and deliver to one shopper at a time. It means the days of mass marketing are finally dead. (If you doubt this, consider what happened in the 2012 Presidential election.) If you’ve ever wondered about the real power of a retailer like Amazon, it’s not that it can efficiently deliver lots of products around the world at the very best prices. It’s rather that it knows what products each shopper wants—or will. That is the inherent threat of Amazon to traditional retailers. In today’s world where shoppers expect to be recognized for who they are and offered what they want, Amazon has a leg up on everyone. “Hi Wendy, If you like that, you might like this…” And you usually do. We now live in a hugely complicated business world. The way we have traditionally done business is no longer viable. American shoppers are moving on, but they are not going back to the way they used to live or shop. For them, value is the beginning and the end. We must deliver it in every product, service or experience we offer. We must fight commoditization in everything we deliver. Innovation is increasingly important. Otherwise shoppers will buy at the lowest price in the cheapest outlet. They have too many options at their fingertips. We must face the fact that loyalty, as we knew it, is no more. Now we have to build emotional engagement with shoppers in new and different ways, one shopper at a time, if we are to encourage them to buy our products once, and again. We must recognize that our retail models and distribution strategies must include many more options that are relevant to shoppers than we have ever had to provide. Small formats, large formats, digital stores, localized stores, urban and suburban…market by market, shopper by shopper. Welcome to the new fragmented, disjointed, incoherent, noisy shopping world—one where shoppers have all the control and are ready, willing and able to use it. As we have said for 25 years, if you follow the shopper you will see the future. We should add, whether you like it or not.
Wendy Liebmann is CEO & Chief Shopper of WSL/STRATEGIC RETAIL, retail strategists and shopping futurists, that help global clients understand their shoppers and build strategies to keep them in the store (whether that store is real or virtual). MA R C H 2 0 1 3 /
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As I See It
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on the avenue Scent Soirée
Lauren Hirschbach of Shiseido with LVMH’s Terry Darland and Joanna Grillo
Coty Prestige’s Lori Singer and Katherine Walsh with Renée Bukowski of trufragrance.com
AHAVA’s Alana Drell Szyfer with Mr. Kanlian
LVMH’s Pamela Baxter with Unilever’s Brenna Koorse
L’Oréal’s Roshini Menon and Karen Fondu
HBA’s Jill Birkett and Dina Nicovic
Mane’s Westly Morris and Ralf Schwieger with MOA’s Chandler Burr and Etat Libre d’Orange’s Etienne de Swardt
Mr. de Swardt mix with Mx. Justin Alex and Westly Morris Vivian Bond
Euroscents Inc., the exclusive US distributor of Etat Libre d’Orange, hosted an event at the new Museum of Olfactory Art (MOA) in New York City, attended by the museum’s Director, Chandler Burr, and Mane’s Perfumer as well as the museum’s in-house Olfactory Director, Ralf Schwieger. Mr. Schwieger created Afternoon of a Faun for Etat Libre d’Orange, and Artist/Poet Mx. Justin Vivian Bond interpreted the fragrance’s theme with a performance of Afternoon of a Faun.
Pacific Collection At BG
FIT Fêtes Mentors
Robert Piguet Parfums’ DJ Pesta, Atique Majrouh and Kathleen Clyne
Robert Piguet Parfums had an outpost on Bergdorf Goodman’s first floor at the Fifth Avenue entrance and by the down escalator to preview the brand’s Pa c i f i c C o l l e c t i o n , which consists of Blossom, Chaí and Jeunesse.
FGI’s Rising Stars FIT’s Stephan Kanlian with Firmenich’s Jerry Vittoria
CEW’s Carlotta Jacobson, Givaudan’s Cos Policastro and Kate Greene with Gayathra Balasundar of Battalure
The Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT) held its annual Mentor Luncheon at the LVMH Tower in Manhattan hosted by LVMH Perfumes & Cosmetics, N.A. Mentors and their Mentees gathered to share experiences and the important aspects of the program.
Lord & Taylor’s Barbara ZinnMoore with Bliss’ Mike Indursky
IFF’s Kristiina Raisanen, Matt Frost and Yvette Ross
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L’ESPRIT FRANÇAIS A French Flirt
An image from the promotion for Mademoiselle Piguet
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he is delicate and irresistible, innocent and sultry, part Lolita and part L o u i s e B r o o k s . Wi t h Mademoiselle Piguet, Robert Piguet Parfums has chosen to pay tribute to both the romantic and sensual associations of orange blossom. Mademoiselle Piguet is a new generation floral Mademoiselle Piguet is a French flirt. fragrance, but its alluring character makes it a perfect addition to the Piguet family of feminine masterpieces. Orange blossoms play a prominent role in Mademoiselle Piguet’s juice, developed by Givaudan’s Perfumer, Aurélien Guichard. The radiant Mademoiselle Piguet captures the beguiling beauty of orange blossoms from their bright verdancy to their rich warmth. The exhilarating citrus prelude suggests a lighthearted character, while the smoky sweetness of tonka beans lends Mademoiselle Piguet a sensual touch.
Structured with a top note of bergamot, the scent’s heart of orange flower dries down to a base of tonka beans. Mademoiselle Piguet clings to the skin like warm silk and enchants with its gentle and charming sillage. In Perfume Magazine, Beth Schreibman Gehring wrote that “Mademoiselle Piguet is simply the most feminine perfume that I’ve enjoyed in many years. I’ve noticed that it’s a real head-turner, probably because it’s instantly recognizable and emotionally unforgettable.” Ms. Gehring commented that she was “mesmerized by the glossy bottle” and turned it over and over in her hands. “It is stunning, with the prettiest fuchsia and white label that is the color of an abundant bougainvillea tumbling over a wrought-iron gate in the courtyard of an antiquated Bourbon Street garden.” Mademoiselle Piguet comes in a 3.4-oz. Eau de Parfum for $150.00. It has launched exclusively at all Neiman Marcus stores nationwide. The fragrance introduction is supported by l55,000 deluxe samples, and they will be included in all Neiman Marcus gift bags for their scent events this month.
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The ingredients from top to base notes for Mademoiselle Piguet MA R C H 2 0 1 3 /
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Gloss And Glamour D
ior seems destined to shine this season. Make that today’s Miss Dior is bolder, but “outshine.” Remember the matte mouths of yore? still grounded in a tradition Forget ‘em. They’re gone. Very, very gone. Dior Addict dating from 1947. Retailing at Gloss delivers ultra-shiny, luscious, mirror-like lips in 24 $75.00 for 1.7 oz. and $98.00 shades and three different gamuts of glistening glam: for 3.4 oz, it is available at sparkling, pearly and pure. The dazzling “mirror-shine” Dior counters nationwide this effect is obtained thanks to a mix of glass micro-beads month. and round crystalline micro-particles that align perfectly Actress Natalie Portman to maximize light diffusion, allowing for perfectly even stars in the print advertisements distribution. Dior Addict Gloss is priced at $29.00 each. shot by Photographer Tim But if high-gloss lips are front and center this season, Walker. The TV commercial is so are super-shine nails. Dior Vernis dispenses mega- directed by none other than sheen once again by providing four must-have shades Sofia Coppola. that coordinate with those in the Addict Gloss collection: For Spring, Dior offers a mix Spring Ball, Delice, Princess and Diablotine ($24.00 between makeup and skin care each). This “mirror manicure” is further aided and with an all-in-one product that abetted by Dior Gel Coat, a long-wearing, high-shine top illuminates, corrects, hydrates, Dior Capture Totale Multicoat ($24.00). protects and smoothes for an Nor have the eyes all-over rosy glow with its Perfection Makeup Base SPF 25 been forgotten. The new Diorskin Nude BB Crème. This formula glides on Dior Art Pen features and dissolves into the skin for an “awakened” look. Its a high-precision felt innovative Rosy Glow Complex creates a “pink light” tip with a long-last- effect. Available in four shades—Light, Fair, Medium and ing formula that Dark—for $44.00. glides on smoothly, Dior’s Capture Totale Multi-Perdries impeccably fection UV Base SPF 50 ($65.00) and and rinses off easily. Capture Totale Multi-Perfection It is available in Makeup Base SPF 25 ($50.00) both Catwalk Black. contain Survivyl ™ that boosts stem Its companion, cells’ resistance to harmful UV the Dior rays, while preserving their Dior Addict Gloss gives “mirror-shine” Twin Set Eyeregenerative potential. The first lips the time of day…and night. shadhas a light, silky texture, provides a flawless finish and ow Duo, comes in three different shades, corrects visible signs of each with two effects: a creamy stick eye aging, preventing the shadow on one end and a foam tip on the appearance of age spots other that applies an iridescent setting due to UV rays. The powder. Available in Grey Sigh, Ballerina second is infused with Pink and Fishnet Black for $30.00 each. Capture Totale’s antiAll the above products are available now aging ingredients, leavon counter at Saks Fifth Avenue and at ing the complexion’s Dior.com. skin tone even and But Dior is not done there. The “there” smooth, while allowing is a very new Miss Dior Eau de Toilette. A makeup to last longer. floral chypre with an exciting top note of Both products are availblood orange, a floral heart that includes able at Dior.com. Tunisian neroli oil, along with Turkish Dior Capture Totale and Bulgarian Damask roses, and a dry Multi-Perfection UV down of a dense Indonesian patchouli, Miss Dior Eau de Toilette, version 2013 Base 50 SPF BF MA R C H 2 0 1 3 /
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Diorama
AT-COUNTER
AMOREPACIFIC
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MORE-PACIFIC’s President and CEO Bradley Horowitz, Esther Dong, Senior Vice President of Sales and Marketing and Kamilla Khanbalinova, National Sales Director invited Beauty Fashion to tour stores and review the brand’s distribution as well as how they are growing customer awareness. “We want to think differently about how we service the customer,” Mr. Horowitz declared. “Sometimes we all find ourselves becoming stagnant with marketing techniques, and AMOREPACIFIC has tried to break down that wall. We are in a very cluttered skincare market, so I constantly challenge myself and my team to increase our visibility and provide a value proposition for our customer that is special and unique.” “I informed my team that I want to grow ‘narrow and deep.’ We want to become more important to the partners we already are doing business with—Bergdorf Goodman, Neiman Marcus, Nordstrom and Sephora. We have a lot of potential with our retail partners today,” he continued. “If we can’t service a door, train it and really support it, we are not opening it. We are in a distribution today that we can support. We are never going to let our distribution get out in front of our capacity to service it.” When Mr. Horowitz joined AMOREPACIFIC, he believed the brand needed to make more noise in the marketplace, not only to accelerate their sales but to increase its visibility. “I credit Esther and Kamilla with seeing where I want to take the company and being good supporters of my initiatives. They have risen to the challenge and raised the bar higher.” “AMOREPACIFIC is the leading skincare company in Korea,” Ms. Dong informed. “We have 40% market share. It is a combination of ancient beauty secrets and what the company invests in skin biotech research that maintains our position.” She believes that more people are becoming aware of Korea’s importance in cosmetics and skincare. “AMOREPACIFIC has had a presence in the US for ten years,” Ms. Dong reported. “Before I joined the company, I admired its gorgeous product packaging. Now, as part of AMOREPACIFIC, I have learned about the science and technology behind the products.” Trained as a biochemist, she wants to connect that scientific research and
AMOREPACIFIC’s high-performance Asian botanical ingredients in simple language that can be easily understood by the customer at-counter. Ms. Dong credits Mr. Horowitz with adapting AMOREPACIFIC’s Asian heritage to the American culture. “AMOREPACIFIC is a huge Korean company with global ambition, but it didn’t leverage its local talent until Bradley stepped in. We want to celebrate our cultural differences but must speak to the American customer with ideas they can understand. Some of the marketing concepts in the Korean market need to be adapted to the US market.” “The company has realized that they must win in the US if they want to win globally,” she added. “It was a great move by AMOREPACIFIC to put Bradley at the helm in the US. We have tremendous support from Bradley. He fights for anything we need at headquarters in Korea. He defends his ideas even though they may not be in line with the company’s leadership. He knows how to deliver the message.” Ms. Khanbalinova agreed. “I have worked with AMOREPACIFIC from day one in the US, and we never had a team like the one in place now. When Bradley first joined us, he had a fresh ear. His door is always open. He is very detail-oriented, and even the Product Specialists at-counter can contact him at any time and get his input. This is very important.” She also believes that his calm presence keeps his team balanced and in control.
Branching With Bradley Horowitz At The Westfield Garden State Plaza Mall In Paramus, New Jersey
10:00 AM: Neiman Marcus Westfield Garden State Plaza Mall Paramus, New Jersey
AMOREPACIFIC’s Bradley Horowitz, Esther Dong and Kamilla Khanbalinova (r.) with Neiman Marcus’ Elisa Ruggiero
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A Walk On The Line Side...With
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he fifth Elements Showcase was held January 28 to 29 in New York City’s Skylight West. The 3,000 industry leaders, buyers and media that attended the event experienced the perennial educational panel discussions and interactive installations that are part of every show. The show featured new brands in new categories and was highlighted by educational forums and cutting-edge tradeshow technology from Pop Market. This technology enables brands to work with their buyers via an offline/ online iPad application. Brands can share collections, create custom suggested orders and take orders directly on the application.
The Fragrance Foundation’s Elizabeth Musmanno presented the “Indie” Award to Givaudan’s Rodrigo Flores-Roux for By Kilian’s Amber Oud.
Elements Showcase’s Frederick Bouchardy, Jeffrey Lawson and Ulrich Lang
The show is a marketplace focused on design objects in the worlds of beauty and fragrance. Called the “Art Basel of the fragrance industry,” the January 2013 show featured 120 exhibitors in a wider range of categories than seen at previous shows, including personal fragrance, home ambiance, skincare, hair care and color cosmetics. Each of the luxury brands shares a commitment to beautiful design and independent thinking. On January 28, the presentation of the second annual “Indie” Award in partnership with The Fragrance Foundation was held. Of the 30 Indie fragrance nominees, five finalists were introduced at Elements Showcase by Elizabeth Musmanno, President of The Fragrance Foundation. Ms. Musmanno declared that “The Foundation and our industry are thrilled to support small companies who have been chosen by our industry elite.” To qualify as such, an Indie brand must have been on the market for at least two years, is not distributed or owned by a large company and is sold in one to 50 stores in the US. The winner of the “Indie” Award was By Kilian’s Amber Oud. The award was accepted by Givaudan’s Perfumer, Rodrigo Flores-Roux. MA R C H 2 0 1 3 /
Mr. Lang (r.) led members of WFFC on a tour of Elements Showcase.
WFFC’s Gillian Bleimann, Bea Hornedo, Anne Marie Api, Alpa Roman, Jeanine Pedersen, Celine Roche, Kay Bardsley-Murano, Erica Lermond and Amy Marks-McGee
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THE OF BEAUTY The Women in Flavor and Fragrance Commerce (WFFC) attended a private tour of the Elements Showcase prior to the Indie Award. They later held a January business meeting at a nearby restaurant. Robertet held a workshop on January 29 on “Ylang Ylang: The Perfume Tree from Nosy Be, Madagascar.” It was moderated by Robertet’s Arnaud Adrian, Vice President of Sales, Jennifer Powderly, Director of Marketing and Olivia Jan, Senior Perfumer. Members of the panel were D.S. & Durga’s Perfumer and Co-Owner, David Moltz; Sarah Horowitz Parfums’ Perfumer & Founder Sarah Horowitz and Ms. Jan. One area of production for ylang ylang in Robertet’s Seed To Scent Program is Madagascar. According to Mr. Adrian, ylang ylang, the “flower of all flowers,” is sourced
Robertet’s Jennifer Powderly and Arnaud Adrian
The Robertet workshop’s panelists: Robertet’s Olivia Jan, Sarah Horowitz of Sarah Horowitz Parfums and D.S & Durga’s David Moltz
W’s Jane Larkworthy, Paul Austin of the Austin Advisory Group and Kavi Moltz of D.S. & Durga chat about the Robertet workshop. MA R C H 2 0 1 3 /
from very small islands in Robertet’s sustainable approach starting from seeds. The plants are then raised in nurseries, and after they reach full growth, the ylang flowers go through a steam distillation process. He informed that 60% of Robertet’s plantation for ylang ylang is preserved as a forest in a wood management program. “High-end equipment reduces water consumption by 50%.” “Ylang ylang has played roles in different cultures,” Ms. Jan explained. “Moslems burned ylang to scent harems. Chinese Emperors scented their robes with ylang. Ylang in India is an aphrodisiac for honeymooners. It is also used for medicinal purposes and in aromatherapy as a calming and antidepressant ingredient.” Ms. Jan presented her fragrance creation using ylang. The scent, “Evening at Goldeneye,” opens on a top note of bergamot, rum extract, bigardier heart (exclusive Roberet Petit Grain fraction). Its middle note of Lislang (exclusive Robertet ylang fraction), Jamaican pimento berry and cedarwood dries down to a base of sandalwood, vetiver and benzoin. Elements Showcase will hold its first international edition of the show in Dubai this spring. It will return to New York City in September for the 6th installment of the show in the United States. BF 36
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SETS RECORDS AT 4TH ANNUAL CONFERENCE
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he fourth annual conference of ScentWorld, LLC was held in New York City’s Marriott Downtown February 6-8. “Our event offered conference attendees the opportunity to explore the latest trends and creative avenues in scent and sensory marketing and to network with professionals from over 21 countries,” affirmed Caroline Pieper-Vogt, President of ScentWorld Events, LLC and Chairperson of the Scent Marketing Institute.
The sponsors of ScentWorld 2013 were ScentAir, Prolitec, Inc., MyPod Studios, Sniffapalooza, Beauty News NYC, Aromasys and Givaudan. Representatives from scent and sensory marketing distributors and consultants, advertising and branding agency professionals and established brands from across the globe attended the two days of exhibits and seminars. New this year was the addition of two roundtable sessions—”The Creation of Scent Advertising and Messaging: An Insider’s View from the Creators” and “Smelling, Feeling, Wanting, Learning: A Scent Lover’s Workshop.”
Sniffapalooza’s Hernando Courtright, Beauty News NYC’s Candice Sabatini, Museum of Arts & Design’s Chandler Burr, ScentWorld Events LLC’s Caroline Pieper-Vogt and Scentcommunication’s Robert Muller-Grunow
“Our aim is to raise awareness that there is a world of scent beyond the bottle,” Ms. Pieper-Vogt explained. “It’s about making scent a part of our lifestyle. Scent plays an important role in branding and the consumer’s experience. Ambient scent raises the quality of life.” ScentWorld 2013 reached a new record for industry participation with a 35% increase in attendance over the 2012 conference. “Global scent and sensory marketing are on the rise, and we saw a significant increase in attendance and overall interest in the subject across a variety of industries and disciplines,” Ms. Pieper-Vogt shared. “While we were pleased with this result, we view ScentWorld 2013 as only an early step in our continued support and increased visibility for the scent and sensory marketing industry and the increasing number of b ra n d s wh o use these powerful ScentAir’s Andrew Kindfuller with Prolitec’s tools.” Richard Weening
ScentWorld Events LLC’s Jennifer Dublino and Ms. Pieper-Vogt (3rd r.) with the SMitty Award winners Mr. Kindfuller, Nose Knows Design’s Tracy Pepe, Scentandrea’s Carmine Santandrea and Scentevents’ Neal Harris, who accepted Shania Twain’s award. The Scent of Departure NYC created by Histoires de Parfums’ Gerald Ghislain and the Scent of Resilience developed by Belmay Fragrance’s Steven Claisse especially for ScentWorld symbolize the optimism and sense of community in New York City.
The team of Matt Frost, Global Marketing Director at International Flavors & Fragrances Inc., Syed Shamil, PhD, Vice President of Marketing Fine Fragrance North America at Mane, and Sue Phillips, CEO of Scenterprises, held a panel discussion on “Fragrance Trends.” Dr. Shamil maintains that the sense of smell develops in relation to our experiences at a very early age. In the professional world of perfumery, Mr. Frost stated that it is necessary to understand what message and emotion the brand wants to communicate to the consumer. “It is a challenge to keep the familiar but have innovation come through.” (Continued on page 53)
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he Fragrance Foundation presented “Pop Your Cork” at Manhattan’s City Winery to explore emerging tastes on a journey to China, Russia and Egypt. It was an evening of wine tasting, fragrance sniffing and networking featuring a four-course menu paired with wines. City Winery’s Chef, Andres Barrera, produced the Emerging Tastes menu. Joshua Wesson, Founding Partner of Joshua Wesson Wine & Food, led guests through the pairings of wines and beers with courses.
Takasago’s Frederic Jacques and Mane’s Julie Brouard with HDM’s Henri de Monclin
International Flavors & Fragrances’ Bruno Jovanovic, Givaudan’s Calice Becker, The Fragrance Foundation’s Elizabeth Musmanno, drom fragrances’ Kevin Verspoor and Joshua Wesson Wine & Food’s Joshua Wesson
Mr. Verspoor with Inter Parfums’ Tara Kearns
Ann Gottlieb of Ann Gottlieb Associates with Mane’s Westly Morris
Bruno Jovanovic, Senior Perfumer at International Flavors & Fragrances, was inspired by China, which he called a “very olfactive c o u n t r y,” t o d e v e l o p Shanghai-Beijing. This impressionistic vision of China opens on a top note of rice flour, tea jasmine and magnolia. Its heart of ginger, cinnamon and incense is based on musk and millennia wood. Those ingredients suggested the recipe for drunken shrimp over green tea noodle salad that was paired with a Chinese beer and a Chilean wine.
Robertet’s Jerome Épinette and Pierre Wulff (r.) with Givaudan’s Remy Bhatia
Givaudan Fragrances’ Calice Becker, Vice President and Executive Perf u m e r, d r e w o n h e r Russian heritage to create the Slavic Tea Fragrance. Tea in Russia, Ms. Becker explained, is considered the “solution to all probCoty’s Cherisse Carrington with lems and is the premiere Arcade Marketing’s Eric Dalbo beverage in the country.” Slavic Tea Fragrance opens on a top note of bergamot and galbanum. Its middle note of orris and rose petals blends to a drydown of moss and organic Laos beeswax. The tasting course to complement the fragrance was steamed halibut with marinadom and draniki that was washed down with either a semisweet red wine from the Republic of Georgia or a rose cava from Spain. (Continued on page 53)
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A FRAGRANCE/ FOOD ODYSSEY
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hiseido’s latest brain child for its award-winning White Lucent collection is the new Power Brightening Mask. Based on Iontophoresis, positive- and negative-charged ions increase by tenfold the penetration into the skin of brightening ingredients, such as Vitamin C. The company’s Ion Force Complex provides a powerful brightening solution that embeds brighteners and targets excess pigment for both immediate and long-term results with a marked improvement after three weeks of use. The mask White Lucent Power itself is a stretchable sheet with openings Brightening Mask to accommodate the eyes, nose and mouth. It is meant to be used twice a week for ten minutes. Priced at $68.00 for six masks, it is Urban Environment Tinted UV Protector SPF43 comavailable as of this month at www.shiseido.com. bines anti-oxidants and moisturizers with a hint of color. It also fills the gaps in the ridges and furrows of the skin’s surface. This is attained by four main ingredients: SuperVeil-UV 360, a patent-pending technology that ensures even coverage for effective sun protection; ProfenseCEL inhibits enzyme activity that causes wrinkles and uneven skin tone; Rose Apple Leaf Extract and Thiotaurine, strong antioxidants that prevent DNA damage from environmental stressors; and Hydro-Restoring Complex, which has exceptional moisturizing capabilities. Available this month in three shades, it is priced at $30.00 for 30 ml. Shiseido Perfect Hydrating BB Cream SPF35 is also tinted, combining makeup effects with the benefits of skincare, thanks to SPF35, which includes titanium dioxide, rose apple leaf and thiotaurine, amino acids and Xylitol, a humectant that promotes optimal hydration and smooth skin. Available in two shades ($33.00 for 30ml) online at the Shiseido Web site. BF Shiseido Perfect Hydrating BB Cream SPF43
Urban Environment Tinted UV Protector SPF43
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MASKERADE BALL AND BRIGHT IDEAS
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SEPHORA AND PANTONE WEARING THE GREEN
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ontrary to Kermit the Frog’s lament, it’s easy being green—at least this year. Just in time for St. Patrick’s Day and beyond, Sephora and Pantone Universe announced the 2013 Color of the Year beauty collection featuring PANTONE 17-5641 Emerald. It is available exclusively for a limited time at Sephora stores and Sephora.com as of this month. Their 2013 Color of the Year Emerald Capsule Collec-
tion, priced at $68.00, is extensive, comprising of one Color Grid Eye Shadow in Bionic (Emerald, White Alyssum and Crown); one Color Code Prismatic Shadow, a high-pigment cream formula for the eyes that lasts all day; one Color Cube Lid Liner Stain; one Lightspeed Glitter Dust, a loose emerald glitter for a subtle shimmer or a powerful pop; one Graphic Sculpt Waterproof Jumbo Eyeliner, a long-wearing, easy-glide liner with a luminous finish; and one Color Watt Highlighting Mascara, a retractable pencil, also waterproof in a matte finish. The Color Grid Eye Shadow also comes in two other combinations: Eclipsed (Emerald Glitter, Amberlight and Olivine; and Elemental (Emerald shimmer, Appleblossom
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and Camel). Purchased individually, prices range from $14.00 to $26.00. Other products, not included in the Emerald Capsule Collection, are numerous. The Colorbyte Lip Wands ($24.00) is a lip gloss set that offers four shades—Touch of Emerald (clear with an emerald sparkle), Crocus (lacquer lilac), Georgia Peach (lacquer peach) and Cameo Brown (lacquer nude). Graphic Lift Liquid Liner ($17.00) has a flocked tip applicator delivering a long-lasting metalThe Sephora lic shimmer finish. Glitter + Pantone Universe Strobe Eyeliner Set ($18.00) 2013 Emerald consists of four emerald eyelinCapsule ers with different finishes— Collection glitter, iridescent, metallic and matte. The Color Theory Sculpting Blush ($24.00), a duo to compliment emerald accents, comes in Dusty Pink and Pink Mist. The Color Charged Graphic Lacquer ($10.00) is an intense shade of emerald in a h i g h - g l o s s l a c q u e r. M i n i Graphic Effect Lacquers ($18.00) is a collection of three emerald mini polishes in Emerald (clear with emerald glitter), shimmer (Emerald and silver) and matte metallic. Lastly, the Emerald Tip Nail Ring ($22.00), a nail jewel statement featuring an emerald and crystal tip. There are also six Color of the Year Accessories: the Color Contour Face Brush Set ($68.00), an 8-piece synthetic brush set with a stand that provides every function to create your Emerald look; the Spectra Blend Eye Brush Roll ($20.00), a 3-piece mini travel brush set in a magnetic pouch; the Color Black Beauty Box ($38.00), a hard cosmetic case featuring organizing compartments and a removable travel box; Prismatic Glitter False Eyelashes ($10.00) consisting of luxurious black lashes with a strip of emerald glitter; the Color Sculpting Kabuki Brush ($22.00), a travel-size synthetic brush; and the Emerald Compact Mirror ($18.00), a must-have two-sided travel mirror for touch-ups featuring 3x magnification. Miss Piggy is going to flip. BF
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BRIEF
by Fernanda Bonifacio
Sephora Breaks Into the Brazilian Market With over 1,300 stores in 27 countries, there were several speculations on why Sephora had not entered Brazil, one of the fastest-growing beauty markets worldwide. In fact, the prestige beauty retailer was carefully preparing the ground for an audacious goal: to open 40 stores throughout the country in five years. Sephora’s strategy to enter Brazil started in 2008, when the company conducted a thorough study of the Brazilian cosmetics segment and confirmed what had been suspected—there was no rival to its position in the marketplace. “Brazil is the world’s third largest beauty market. Although customers are quite sophisticated, they did not have many options,” said David Suliteanu, President and CEO of Sephora Americas. “Sephora has changed that by bringing our unique store concept and a wide range of excellent brands to meet such great demand.” Sephora’s first Latin American store was inaugurated in 2009, in Mexico City, after the company inked a deal with Mexican distributor Groupo Axo. One year later, Sephora finally broke into the Brazilian market, with the acquisition of a 70% controlling stake in Brazil’s largest online beauty retailer, Sack’s, by the LVMH group.
into www.sephora.com.br and inaugurating its longawaited first physical store in Brazil. São Paulo’s JK Iguatemi Mall—home to the first Lanvin, Van Cleef & Arpels and Topshop stores in Latin America— was chosen as the site for the first location, followed by a second store in São Paulo and another two in Rio—all in shopping malls. By 2017, the LVMH group expects Brazil to be among the brand’s top 10 markets, with an additional 36 stores open throughout the country. “Our goal is to expand sales in Brazil to offset the downturn
Tattoo Artist Kat Von D at Sephora JK Iguatemi
Shopping at Sephora/JK Iguatemi Mall, São Paulo
The first step to develop a local platform was to integrate Sephora’s expertise and new products into the Sack’s website, which already carried 270 brands and had 4 million unique visitors each month. In July 2012, the company completed the migration, converting Sack’s formal website MA R C H 2 0 1 3 /
At Sephora/Morumbi Mall, São Paulo
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FOREIGNCORRESPONDENTS
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SOUTH FLORIDA SCENE
Neiman Marcus Boca Raton Welcomes Star Artists Antonio Costa from Giorgio Armani The buzz in the beauty blogosphere about Giorgio Armani’s Maestro Fusion Makeup was on the lips of women waiting on line at Neiman Marcus/Boca Raton to meet Premier Face Designer Antonio Costa. “I’ve heard so much about it,” said customer Linda Carson. “But I wanted to experience it at an event like this where I could learn proper application from Armani experts.” Mr Costa, who oozes charm, and obviously loves his role as a teacher, explained that while many women are calling this new product a foundation, it’s really a revolutionary complexion perfector. “It’s magical,” he said. “There has never been anything like it. The texture is amazing, it just blends into your skin and disappears…leaving incredibly perfected skin.” The feel is unbelievably lightweight, but it covers trouble spots with ease. The tiny amount of product that is needed truly surprised the guests getting makeovers. Women who were used to layering on foundation to cover flaws were shocked how just a drop or two of Maestro Fusion transformed their faces. “You need very little product,” said Costa. “Just use a little bit in the center of your face and blend outward. It is super lightweight and very easy to apply.” Mr. Costa suggested using finger application. “You don’t need to use a brush with this to get that perfected look,” he explained. “And just watch how it doesn’t get into pores and lines…that’s due to Armani’s technology.” The unforgettable and unique texture created by this patented Fusion Technology delivers the thinnest color film that blends perfectly and corrects skin imperfections without buildup. As the Boca women were having “wow” moments, Mr. Costa talked with me about how much he loves being able to do these events. “Teaching is so important to me. Just handing a woman a product does nothing. Showing her how to use it, how to be more beautiful and how it will make her life easier…now that is what I am excited about.” For South Florida women, Mr. Costa especially felt Maestro Fusion was going to be huge. “We are selling out all over the country,” he said. “But South Florida women are truly going to appreciate this because of their
Antonio Costa in action
active lifestyles. They want application to be easy… they don’t want to look like they are wearing makeup, yet they want to look amazing.” Costa also felt that the Spring palette will be a huge hit here. Women love these small compacts with their blush and shadows all in one. Trendwise, he stressed …and the new Maestro Foundation pops of pink and coral on the cheeks with pastel and nude lips. “It’s joyful, playful and colorful,” he said. Sums up the Boca woman pretty well! (Continued on page 55)
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REGIONALCORRESPONDENTS
by Kay Renz
REGIONALCORRESPONDENTS
Macy’s/Lenox Square Grand Reopening Macy’s at Lenox Square Mall in Atlanta, Georgia, recently unveiled its newly expanded interior departments and storewide upgrades. To celebrate the occasion a mult level department extravaganza was held for its customers at the Mall. The well-planned event showed a lot of hard work put forth by vendors. Raffles for cosmetics and fragrance gift baskets valued over $300 and a Michael Kors handbag were just a couple of the many giveaways.
Dior National Skincare Specialist Sheba Vignale, Fragrance Specialist Sari Hidi and Hoban Hersi, Dior Skincare Specialist
The new and improved Macy’s Lenox Square store has for a long time been a sales winner location for Dolce & Gabbana and Gucci women’s and men’s fragrances, both distributed by P&G Prestige. “We have excellent exposure in Macy’s fragrance department combined with a number-one team of Sales Associates. Those factors and a great line of products have made this Macy’s location Dolce & Gabbana and Gucci’s highest-ranking sales volume fragrance store,” said Gail Arrojo, Retail Executive for P&G Prestige.
Clinique’s Beauty Consultants Judith Tummings and Jennie Meridith
The cosmetics department was the epicenter of traffic on the grand reopening day. Cosmetic vendors had flown in their skincare and makeup experts to man every makeup counter. Included in the offerings were makeovers, demonstrations and a fun time for everyone.
Dany Balbuena, RSS for P&G Prestige, and Gail Arrojo, P&G Prestige Retail Account Executive
P&G Prestige showcases Dolce & Gabbana and Gucci men’s and women’s fragrances, and the Lacoste for Men and The Art of Shaving for Men lines at all Macy’s stores. Lisa Sagneri, District Manager for Macy’s East, commented on the impact of the update and sales expectations for 2013. “We expect 2013 to be a banner year for our total store sales and that the cosmetics department will see double-digit increases,” said Ms. Sagneri.
The Dior team at Macy’s/Lenox Square Mall
(Continued on page 55)
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ATLANTA PEACH
by Toni M. Lublin
MAGGIE CIAFARDINI HELMS PZ CUSSONS BEAUTY IN THE AMERICAS (continued from page 19)
Growing the St. Tropez brand is achieved not only with bricks and mortar, but also, social media and PR. “We have chats with our tanning experts. We work with Designers and tweet backstage during Fashion Weeks. At the Academy Awards, St. Tropez had two Artists tanning the celebrities.” Now that St. Tropez is “off and running,” Ms. Ciafardini is “starting the process with Sanctuary Spa in the US. We have made the products compliant with the US regulations. The products are efficacious and consumer-friendly. They Ms. Kilkenny and Ms. Ciafardini chat are at an affordable during the St. Tropez 2013 Sales price to create a spa in a Meeting. consumer’s own home.” She explained that the Sanctuary Spa brand was created 30 years ago. A ballerina’s husband built a spa for her and her friends to relax in after dancing. It became the Sanctuary Spa in London’s Covent Garden, which spawned the products that have been created with over 100 Estheticians over the years.
“Michelle recreated the ballerina theme by making Darcy Bussell, a famous Ballerina and now a judge on Dancing With The Stars in the UK, the Spokesperson for Sanctuary Spa. We have also identified Dawn Gallagher, a former Model and spa expert, as the US spokesperson for Sanctuary Spa.” Ms. Ciafardini is seeding the Sanctuary Spa brand on QVC to help spread the word about the line. “We will then find the right brick-and-mortar retailer partner to slowly and confidently build the brand across the US and Canada.” Sanctuary Spa has a celebrity Facialist, Nicola Joss, and the brand was introduced at an event for Beauty Editors at New York City’s Park Avenue Autumn. She shares that Fudge is a youth-attitude styling product that helps women to create their own hairstyles at home. “Fudge is fun, and we are still working on our strategy for the brand,” Ms. Ciafardini reported. Currently the business is divided between the UK and Australia in salons only. Along with its business in the UK, Australia and the Americas, she maintains that PZ Cussons is in the process of opening up many more countries. “When I started [at the Americas division] on June 1, 2011, there were three people in the field. Now, we have 11 people in our New York City office. We have six Account Managers across the US and will be adding more, as well as one in Canada.” “What is consistent at PZ Cussons Beauty is the tremendous amount of passion our people have for the brands,” Ms. Ciafardini affirmed. “Our strategy is really simple. It is based on hard work and great products. Then we let the consumer take our brands to the next level.”
The PZ Cussons Beauty team at the St. Tropez 2013 Sales Conference MA R C H 2 0 1 3 /
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MAGGIE CIAFARDINI AT SEPHORA STORES IN MANHATTAN Sephora/Meatpacking District
Ms. Vasquez and Ms. Ciafardini highlight St. Tropez Self Tan Dark Range, which won an ALLURE 2012 Beauty Award. Ms. Ciafardini and Ms. Moore (r.) with Sephora’s Lauren Vasquez showcase the iconic visual for St. Tropez.
Sephora/SoHo
“This is an amazing new store,” Ms. Ciafardini declared. “It is a new interior design for the retailer, and St. Tropez has a wonderful location on a main aisle near the store’s entrance. St. Tropez’s iconic visual showing models in white swimwear is the largest graphic in the store.” Also on display is a visual for St. Tropez’s 2012 ALLURE Beauty Breakthrough Award for Self Tan Dark Range and Self Tan Bronzing Mousse.
Ms. Moore with Sephora’s Lorenna Fuentes at the St. Tropez display in the store’s main aisle
“The customer who comes to this store is among New York’s hippest,” disclosed Yvonne Moore, St. Tropez’s Senior Account Executive for the New York Metro area. “They are very savvy, and this store’s Cast Members are very supportive and knowledgeable about all of the products in Sephora.” Ms. Moore maintains that her ethnicity gives her an advantage in explaining St. Tropez. When customers or Cast Members ask why she would need a self-tanner, Ms. Moore explains that St. Tropez provides a skin finish. “Clients with dark skin can have an uneven skin tone, so St. Tropez evens out the complexion. Customers with darker skin can use the St. Tropez skin illuminator to give an additional glow to skin. And there is One Night Only for those who are commitment-phobic.” MA R C H 2 0 1 3 /
“Sephora/SoHo is our #1 store,” Ms. Ciafardini disclosed. “St. Tropez ranks #1 in self-tanning products and #3 in the skincare category.” She also noted the popularity of the brand among an Asian-based clientele, such as Sephora in Vancouver’s Pacific Place mall. A new visual at Sephora showing the consumer that St. Tropez is a year-round brand is displayed on the skincare wall.
Ms. Ciafardini and Ms. Moore (r.) with Sephora’s Kenya Gonzalez at the linear visual for St. Tropez
Ms. Ciafardini and Ms. Moore at the end cap display for St. Tropez
“Sephora has given us an end cap, so we are very happy with our space and location on the store’s main thoroughfare,” she added. BF
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(continued from page 29)
Givaudan’s Yara Karmiloff with L’Oréal’s David Suffit
Ms. Marshall with FGI’s Margaret Hayes
Elizabeth Arden’s Francine Gingras with Anahita Mekanik of IFF
IFF’s Carlos Benaïm with Trudi Loren of The Estée Lauder Companies
IFF’s Mara Dumski and Lorenzo Cavallaro with Nancy Williams of L’Oréal
IFF’s Julianne Pruett with Mark Knitowski of Victoria’s Secret Beauty
IFF’s Kristiina Raisanen and Yves Cassar
Ken and Catherine Ehrenberger of Amway with Roberto Olivi of Firmenich
Firmenich’s Cheryl Morano, Debra Butler and Hervé Pierini
Firmenich’s Joseph Pagliuco, Karen Tay and Roberto Olivi
Daniel Clarke of Coty Prestige (2nd l.) with Givaudan’s Rose Eckert, Britta Sevin and Kate Greene
ybf Beauty’s Kristin Hambel and Amanda Hudziak
Givaudan’s Britta Sevin and Kate Greene (r.) with Nichole Kirtley of Parlux
Nicholas Ratut, a beauty industry veteran, spoke of his son’s battle with mental illness. Declaring that disorders such as OCD are highly stigmatizing, Mr. Ratut shared that his son is currently residing at Clubhouse International in Paris, which is a community center for people living with mental illness. Mr. Mirzayantz said he first learned about OCD at the Beyond Beauty events. “There is still the stigma attached MA R C H 2 0 1 3 /
to mental illness, and that shame and secrecy only worsens the condition. I saw on my recent visit to the Johns Hopkins Department of Psychiatry and Behavioral Sciences the impact that Dr. Nestadt’s program has on patients who are suffering the fear and doubt of mental illness.” Mr. Calvert praised the “great work by genetic researchers at Johns Hopkins.” He also paid tribute to the tireless
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Cosmetic World’s Debra Davis and George Ledes (r.) with Mail Online’s Rich Sutton, Kelly Davis and Matt Kaplan
Princess Alexandra of Greece with Ms. Gabai-Pinsky, Mr. Mirzayantz and Mr. Rolleston
Marie Claire’s Nancy Berger Cardone, Ms. Pieper-Vogt, Abby Wallach of Beautiful Stranger and Mr. Butkiewicz
Gurwitch Products’ Robert Luzzi, Mr. Butkiewicz and Art Spiro
PCPC’s Mary Foster with John Ledes and ybf Beauty’s Stacey Schieffelin
Princess Alexandra of Greece and Mr. Mirzayantz with Ms. Marshall and Coty’s Catherine Walsh.
Givaudan’s Yara Karmiloff with IFF’s Sue McEwen and Olivier Delcour (r.) and SGD’s Shéhérazade Chamlou
Johnson & Johnson’s Stefano Curti with PCPC’s Louanne Roark, Alison Brod of Alison Brod Public Relations and Mr. Ratut
John Ledes (c.) with David Schieffelin of ybf Beauty, Ms Marshall and Peter Barton Hutt of Covington & Burling MA R C H 2 0 1 3 /
energy of Linda Marshall and her family in organizing the annual Beyond Beauty event. “The Marshall family is making a difference.” BF 47
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THE NPD GROUP AND CEW PRESENT “HOT OFF THE PRESS” (continued from page 21)
Linda Marshall of Elysée Cosmetics with Johnson & Johnson’s Stefano Curti
Ms. Baxter and Gurwitch Products’ Claudia Poccia
Robertet’s Pierre Wulff with Estée Lauder’s Charisse Ford
Coty Beauty’s Lorrie King with Ms. Crecca
Mane’s Dr. Syed Shamil with Beauty Fashion’s George Ledes
QVC’s Diane Paccione and Ms. Lucas
AHAVA’s Elana Drell Szyfer with Nordstrom’s Debbi Hartley Triesch and Amy Fisher of Elizabeth Arden
Mane’s Donna Harrington, Mr. Morris and Ms. Crecca
Ms. Grant with Nordstrom’s Laurie Black and Denny Meadows
Pochet’s Gerald Walle with The NPD Group’s Dennis Brown and Mane’s Ralf Schwieger
Ms. Breen with Gail Gordon of gg Global Consulting
Mane’s Tony Cannone and Jim Krivda (r.) with Maria Corbiscello of Studio MC2
Mr. Curti with Redbook’s Mary Morgan and Jeannine Shao Collins of Meredith Corporation
SGD’s Peter Acerra and Shéhérazade Chamlou
Ms. Zinn-Moore, Ms. Russo, Ms. Breen and Ms. Drell-Szyfer
Mr. Cohen stated that brands must adapt to the consumer. It is the new consumer era of “more—more components, more communication and more competition than ever before.” He defines bricks-and-mortar stores as “sensory” with a touch-and-feel social experience. The Internet is a “resource” that is convenient for checking prices. The question he sees is how to merge in-store and online, pulling from each side, to create 3-D retail. Ms. Grant reported that 50% of US beauty shoppers cut spending while about half did not. She shared that 75% of prestige beauty shoppers were somewhat/strongly influenced by product reviews/endorsements. They were somewhat/strongly influenced (52%) by “best” awards. BF MA R C H 2 0 1 3 /
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CALVIN KLEIN’S
(continued from page 31)
SUMMER VACATION
He Sells Seashells By The Seashore
Lisa Hoffman Beauty’s Lee Gottsegen and Lisa Hoffman
C
Givaudan’s Cathy Torelli and Cos Policastro with Andrew Hilfiger
The Fashion Group International (FGI) presented the 16th annual Rising Star Awards at Cipriani 42nd Street in New York City. Ralph Rucci delivered the keynote address.
FIT Hosts Digital Program The Estée Lauder Companies’ Frank Fronzo, Carly Guerra (3rd r.), Alex Fritsch Gil (2nd r.) and Mark Polson (r.) with Bergdorf Goodman’s Teril Turner, L2 Digital Think Tank’s Scott Galloway and Maureen Mullen and Bumble and bumble/Smashbox’s Peter Lichtenthal
The alumni of FIT’s Cosmetics & Fragrance Marketing & Management program as well as current students gathered at New York City’s House of bumble in the Meatpacking District for a presentation given by Scott Galloway and Maureen Mullen from L2, a renowned think tank, on digital innovation.
WFFC’s 2013 Board (Front) Gillian Bleimann, Bea Hornedo, Anne Marie Api, Jeanine Pedersen and Kathryn Bardsley; (rear) Alpa Roman, Celine Roche, Erica Lermond and Amy Marks-McGee
Women in Flavor & Fragrance Commerce elected its 2013 Board of Directors helmed by Celine Roche of Mane USA.
Miracle Skin Transformer In UK Miracle Skin Transformer is now available in the new Beauty Workshop department of Selfridges in the United Kingdom, and online at Selfridges.com.
Miracle Skin Transformer’s Anthony Vesnaver and Sarah McNamara at Selfridges to greet customers
Cosmo Cover Girl
Cosmopolitan’s Donna Kalajian Lagani and Joanna Coles (r.), Michael Clinton of Hearst Magazines and Miley Cyrus
Miley Cyrus was feted at New York City’s Acme by Cosmopolitan a s t h e m a g a z i n e ’s March cover girl. BF MA R C H 2 0 1 3 /
alvin Klein Eternity summer springs eternal, albeit in a limited edition. Inspired by the beauty of glistening seashells on sunsoaked sands, his Eternity summer, an aquatic floral, opens with breezy and water-spangled notes—seabreeze, aquatic accord and sparkling bergamot. With mid-notes of wisteria, living cotton flower and osmanthus deepening into a dry down of musk, white amber and sandalwood, how could this not spell out a fresh, calm and elegant summery afternoon by the shore? The 3.4-oz eau de parfum spray retails at $58.00. But no beautiful day at the beach is complete without a companion. Enter Eternity for men summer—a veritable foray in a fresh fougère fragrance. Top notes feature tarragon, Mediterranean bergamot, orange flower and wet summer aldehydes, melting into midnotes of cedar leaf oil, violet leaf, mimosa, lavender oil and seagrass. Patchouli, white amber, driftwood, musk and ebony cashmere woods complete a perfect picture. The 3.4-oz. eau de toilette sells for $58.00. That said, no summer afternoon is really complete without a cool, refreshing dip in the water provided by a splash of ck one summer, a tonic woody scent, to quench just such a thirst for an aquatic adventure. Its top notes combine waterfall effect, watermelon, crushed leaves and zesty citrus that casEternity summer and Eternity for men summer beached among the seashells—and happy to be there.
cade into mid-notes of water lily, cucumber, caraway and watermint, pooling into a dry down of moss, blonde woods and musk. (How cool is that? Very cool.) Even the flacon is cool—a neon green logo on an aqua flask whose surface mimics the droplets of sea spray. The 3.4-oz eau de toilette spray is priced at $48.00. All the above scents are available at department and specialty stores beginning in March 2013. BF
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Just too cool for words, ck one summer dives right in.
THELATESTLAUNCHES
on the avenue
A Walk On The Line Side...With
AMOREPACIFIC
(continued from page 34)
Mr. Horowitz, AMOREPACIFIC’s Katherine Han and Ms. Ruggiero
“We love Neiman Marcus and they love us back,” enthused Ms. Khanbalinova. “We have a great relationship, and it’s gotten even better with Bradley as our leader. After a lot of troubleshooting we now have a clear path and are getting stronger and stronger.” “Neiman Marcus has been a terrific partner for us,” she continued. “In every store, Ms. Han and Mr. Horowitz showcase we have a partnership AMOREPACIFIC’s products. that extends from the Department Managers to the Assistant Managers to the General Managers. They know what AMOREPACIFIC is about, and that is the secret to our success.”
Neiman Marcus’ Lynne Vreeland joins Ms. Ruggiero and Mr. Horowitz. MA R C H 2 0 1 3 /
“We opened our first counter at Bergdorf Goodman in 2003 and started at the top of the market. We expanded to Neiman Marcus in 2004, and it is our largest and oldest account,” Mr. Horowitz said. “Our partnership with Neiman Marcus is incredibly important to us.” “Our performance in the past two years has been really great,” Ms. Dong added. “Neiman Marcus has definitely taken note of us in relation to the rest of the skincare brands in the department, and we don’t take it lightly. It is a result of hard work in the field. It is very important that we have our own people in the stores, and now have Product Specialists in 16 of the 26 Neiman Marcus doors where we are located.” The space and location for AMOREPACIFIC’s counter in Neiman Marcus is by the escalators. “It is an amazing location as far as foot traffic is concerned,” Ms. Khanbalinova affirmed. “We have access to the majority of customers walking through the store.” AMOREPACIFIC’s Product Specialist, Katherine Han, educates customers about the brand by encouraging them to sample the products. Ms. Han tells her customers about the powerful ingredients in this Korean skincare line and their benefits. This education creates an initial interest to try the products, and by providing a customized selection of samples, customers are able to see and feel the difference prior to purchase. Follow-up and exclusive invitations to special events help build the connection and encourage repeat purchases. Ms. Dong places very high importance on product sampling. “We make a big investment in sampling with packettes for every product. The SKUs that are not suited to packette sampling have deluxe samples for our highend Neiman Marcus customers. If the client purchases a moisturizer, they are given samples of serums and eye creams to take home that we expect will convince them to purchase the rest of the regimen to complement the moisturizer.” Mr. Horowitz emphasized that training and education are imperative to translate the benefits of AMOREPACIFIC’s products to the customer. “We invest in training so that Katherine [Han] can have a very high level of product expertise. We have three Trainers who give the Product Specialists new product training at least once a season. Our National Trainer, Steven Snook, is in the stores a few times a season to make sure the Product Specialists get whatever support they need.” Neiman Marcus Department Manager Elisa Ruggiero praised Ms. Han’s relationship with her customers citing her efforts to provide personalized attention, customized product sampling and consistent follow-up as the keys to her success. One sampling effort was noted as being especially
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A Walk On The Line Side...With
AMOREPACIFIC
successful in creating new AMOREPACIFIC customers. During a special in-store event, each client making a purchase in the Beauty Department received a deluxe AMORE-PACIFIC sample in their gift bag. Katherine’s follow-up with those clients to make sure they know how to use those products resulted in excellent feedback and repeat purchases. When Ms. Han became the Product Specialist at the AMOREPACIFIC counter, Neiman Marcus sent out a letter from the Public Relations Department to any of the brand’s clients announcing her arrival. “Every member of the Beauty Department team is essential to the growth of the business,” stated Lynne Vreeland, Public Relations Manager at Neiman Marcus/Westfield Garden State Plaza Mall. “And Katherine is very representative of our wonderful beauty team.” “The number-one point we focus on is customer service, and I think that is how we get our repeat customers,” Ms. Vreeland explained. “Not only are we warm and kind in our approach, but [members of the Beauty Department] have a lot of talent. A combination of customer service and talent cultivates a repeat customer. Cosmetics are in every store everywhere. For anyone to make the decision to come to Neiman Marcus over and above another store is because we have an edge and that edge is customer service.”
11:00 AM: Sephora According to Ms. Dong, AMOREPACIFIC is doing very well at Sephora as well. “Most recently, they said we are one of the top growth brands for the past two years. Under Bradley’s direction, we have increased our support
Mr. Horowitz and Ms. Dong hold a product from AMOREPACIFIC’s Moisture Bound collection with a special sleeve that explains its benefits. MA R C H 2 0 1 3 /
Ms. Dong and Ms. Khanbalinova at AMOREPACIFIC’s excellent location at Sephora
in the field, and our growth is due to the brand coordinators who visit the stores on a regular basis.” “Training is a big deal at AMOREPACIFIC,” she continued. “We have regular training of the Cast Members and provide AMOREPACIFIC videos [about our products] for them. We have a phrase for Sephora: ‘Leave no door behind.’ We have a relationship with every single Sephora door.” “No brand provides as abundant sampling as we do at Sephora. We are in 140 Sephora doors and have just opened in Canada. Every month we send samples directly to every Sephora store, which is a big commitment.” “In a luxury retail environment, we have a dedicated Product Specialist to tell the story of the products and their benefits. In Sephora,” she disclosed, “it is a very different story. So we have put sleeves on our products that give four key selling points. They help the client to navigate the product themselves and to learn about its treatment. The Cast Member can hold the product and remind themselves of the selling points. We are told by Sephora’s Buying Office that the packaging is so helpful.” “Three years ago, we entered Sephora stores and are continuing to open new doors,” Ms. Khanbalinova reported. “Our comp store sales are growing double-digit as well. We have a huge freelance field team that visits every single Sephora store at least once a month. Our commitment is that no Sephora store will be left unattended. There is a lot of education, sampling and follow-up. Our success is based on leadership between our team and our retail partner.” 51
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A Walk On The Line Side...With
AMOREPACIFIC
11:30 AM: Nordstrom Ms. Khanbalinova started her career at Nordstrom and worked there for eight years. “Nordstrom is very loyal to their employees, to their customers and to their vendors. It is a retailer of choice for us because of their attention to detail, level of service and that culture of loyalty.” “Nordstrom is approachable for many different clients, and we need to tweak how we service those customers, she explained. “Our assortment is value-oriented with a luxury level of service.”
Ms. Dong AMOREPACIFIC’s Irma Dubinsky, Ms. Khanbalinova, Nordstrom’s Desi Femera and Mr. Horowitz highlight the core product display.
“We have a wonderful partnership with Nordstrom, which helps us highlight our brand. We have opened seven stores, because we want to have the narrow and deep approach. We want to devote enough training and resources to each store to make a mark.” Ms. Khanbalinova maintains that Nordstrom appreciates the great technology behind AMOREPACIFIC. They believe in our innovative products based on great botanical formulations, and our price points appeal to them as well.” “Nordstrom is accessible to a wide variety of consumers with a slightly younger demographic. At Sephora, the customer is looking for preventative products. At Neiman Marcus, the customer seeks anti-aging products. At Nordstrom, we have both clients. We separate out that difference and determine how we support each retailer with the appropriate samples and in-store customer communication.” Mr. Horowitz notes that the space and location of the AMOREPACIFIC counter is “excellent and right in the middle of the Beauty Department. I never want to be in less than two cases. We are next to Bobbi Brown, which MA R C H 2 0 1 3 /
is focused on color, creating a complementary balance as we are grounded in skincare.” “We haven’t been in this market for very long, so we have introductory sets that cater to people who are completely new to the brand, don’t want to spend a lot of money and just want to try the products,” Ms. Dong declared. “These introductory sets have deluxe size samples, but they are not as big as the full sizes of products. It is a good trial supply and is priced at $150.00.” “We opened Nordstrom in 2012, and our growth has met Nordstrom’s and our expectations. Some stores are actually exceeding plan. There are constant training and store visits from our sales team to touch people in the department, as well as the clients.” “We have added a new position to our team called the Beauty Creator,” Ms. Khanbalinova continued. “This highly trained AMOREPACIFIC Aesthetician is a great ambassador for the brand. She travels to the stores, so we make sure to book customer appointments, which have been extremely successful. This 45-minute appointment is very luxurious and brings the brand to the next level. Our customers in Neiman Marcus and Nordstrom love it.” “The level of service that AMOREPACIFIC provides defines it as a luxury brand,” Ms. Dong affirmed. “The facials performed by our Beauty Creator are one way to differentiate ourselves from the other skincare brands. Service itself is a huge element of AMOREPACIFIC, and it is how we win in the field.” Ms. Khanbalinova praised the market message about the AMOREPACIFIC products. “The customer is educated about the products in very simple but important sentences based on scientific research. Our product messaging is Esther’s achievement.” Ms. Dong explains the rationale behind the way AMOREPACIFIC’s collections are organized. “Marketing is all about having simple language and a consistent message the customer can understand. For example, when we launched Future Response Age Defense Creme, we showed how it broke the chain of aging.” AMOREPACIFIC’s skincare products are presented in collections targeted for specific customers. The Time Response collection is preventative to delay aging. The Moisture Bound collection, the only collection available at Sephora, is targeted to a younger consumer. Both collections are available at Nordstrom and Neiman Marcus. “Our message is about high-performance products based on Asian botanicals, which are natural and potent,” Ms. Dong noted. “Our Product Specialists deliver that message to the customers by first capturing their attention and then moving forward to speak about the technology and the origin of the AMOREPACIFIC products.” BF
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A FRAGRANCE/ FOOD ODYSSEY
(continued from page 37)
(continued from page 38)
Ms. Pieper-Vogt with Scenterprises’ Sue Phillips, Mane’s Dr. Syed Shamil and IFF’s Matt Frost
With the thousands of raw materials in use for fragrance creation, Mr. Frost noted that the classics still remain. “Fragrance structure changes due to the socio-economic status of what is happening in society. The relation between fashion and scent is influenced by the marketplace.” Dr. Shamil declared that wearing fragrance in Europe is part of the culture, but there is still a debate in the US about whether or not to wear a fragrance. Mr. Frost agreed, declaring that consumers should be “educated to find the fragrance that’s right for them and feel good about it. Fragrance should be all about happiness, but the pressure is on the customer” to sort through the thousands of fragrances available. “Fragrance is a powerful communicator,” noted Dr. Shamil. “How you perceive something is dictated by a fragrance.” When fragrancing a space, Ms. Phillips maintains that scent can be used to stimulate a purchase. She explained that there are various delivery systems today to scent space, including fragranced glass and metal, as well as digital systems. Mr. Frost believes that consumers are more open to experimenting with fragrance today. “The gourmand category has helped to boost fragrance usage,” Mr. Shamil added. Gourmand or food flavors transport consumers back to their childhood and happy memories. The 2013 SMitty Awards were presented to those dedicated individuals and companies that had a tremendous impact on the scent and sensory marketing industry. The ScentWorld 2013 winners included: ScentAir, which received the Harald Vogt Scent Marketer of the Year award; Tracy Pepe of Nose Knows Design’s YSmell Project, which received the Best Sensory Marketing Campaign Award; Shania Twain, who received the Most Innovative Use of Scent Marketing Award for her concert scenting; and Scentandrea’s Scent Halo Light, which was recognized with the Scent Technology Innovation Award. BF MA R C H 2 0 1 3 /
Egypt motivated drom fragrances’ Perfumer Kevin Verspoor to create a juice with herbs and spices. His scent began on a top note of galbanum, spearmint, cardamom, parsley leaf, peppermint and nutmeg. The middle note Baze Mpinja with Glamour’s Andrea of elemi resin, cumin, Pomerantz coriander seed, papyrus, juniper and cinnamon was based on olibanum, myrrh, benzoin, cedarwood, jalamansi and musk. The recipe to accompany this fragrance was Baharat kofta with fu medames, a dish of marinated, grilled meatballs and fava beans. The course was accompanied by Egyptian beer and an Israeli cabernet sauvignon. The three Perfumers were involved in the dessert of choco l a t e ch e e s e cake with bourbon cherries and whipped cream, thereby returning to New York City for the journey’s end. Ms. Becker created a Ms. Musmanno with Ms. Gottlieb fragrance that had the gourmand elements of dark chocolate cheesecake. Mr. Jovanovic’s juice was suggestive of bourbon cherries. Mr. Verspoor named his fragrance “New Amsterdam Whipped Cream” to represent the dessert’s topping. The last course was accompanied by a black Muscat from California and cherry bourbon from Kentucky. Th e Po p Yo u r Cork event was supported by the sponsorship of Elizabeth Arden, Saks Fifth Avenue and International Flavors & Fragrances, as well as a fund-raising silent auction. BF Elizabeth Arden’s Christina Campisi and Jennifer Rinaldi
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BRAZIL BEAUTY BRIEF (continued from page 41)
experienced in most of Sephora’s traditional markets,” said Christopher de Lapuente, Global President and CEO of Sephora. According to him, the Brazilian operation is part of a long-term expansion plan, and therefore possible downturns in the economy will not impact on investment decisions. To try and replicate Sephora’s global model in Brazil, the first challenge was to keep prices competitive. Brazilian import taxes for cosmetics (18% to 35%) as well as currency fluctuation have resulted in significantly higher prices than those in the USA. But according to Lapuente, that is not a major problem. “Brazilian consumers are willing to invest in high-quality products.” A lipstick from brands such as Dior or Givenchy is sold in Brazil for about R$100.00 (approximately $47.00). The same product costs $25.00 at the Sephora store in Times Square.
All stores in Brazil are in line with the brand’s identity and feature many of its well-known concepts within the shopping experience, including Sephora Favourites (the most-buzzed-about items in-store) and Beauty-To-Go (selected products under R$100.00). Sephora’s Brazilian stores have also introduced a slew of new brands to the market, including BareMinerals, Benefit, Dr. Brandt, Nars, Kat Von D, Keratin Perfect, Oscar Blandi, Ouidad and Peter Thomas Roth.
Actress Camila Morgado at Sephora/Village Mall, Rio de Janeiro
“In Brazil you can find all major international fragrance brands, but there is still a lack of makeup and skincare products. To purchase a prestige hair care product, customers have had to go to a hair salon, because the market was dominated by few big players,” said Paula Larroque, Sephora’s SVP of Latin America. “We have experienced an increase in sales of makeup, and hair care products are also expected to perform well.” Sephora’s successful operations have already sparked interest from competitors. In 2012, Brazilian cosmetics giant Boticário Group launched The Beauty Box, a multibrand retail chain with more than 60 selected local and international brands, including Shiseido, Dior, Artdeco, O.P.I, and Lancôme. The Beauty Box finished 2012 with six stores open in the State of São Paulo and is expected to start its e-commerce operations by mid-2013. According to Lapuente, Sephora does not intend to start manufacturing in Brazil as yet, and the products will continue to be imported from France and the USA. After establishing itself in Mexico and Brazil, the company plans to take on Argentina, Colombia and Chile. BF
The Sephora store at Rio Sul Mall in Rio De Janero MA R C H 2 0 1 3 /
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SOUTH
FLORIDA SCENE
ATLANTA PEACH (continued from page 43)
(continued from page 42)
Dell Ashley from Yves St. Laurent The South Florida woman’s desire for flawless skin that looks perfect even in bright sunlight is truly being catered to this Spring. Dell Ashley, the National Makeup Artist for Yves St. Laurent, met a bevy of Boca women at Neiman Marcus who were excited to learn about the newest products from the Dell Ashley in action iconic line. “La Teint Touche Eclat Foundation is what all the women have been asking about,” confided the handsome artist. “We have taken out all the powder and all the alcohol. There is no drying effect, only radiant, glowing, luminous skin.” “It is more of a soft focus gel,” he explained. “It conceals imperfections and shadowy areas, without the look of makeup.” Another brand-new product that women loved trying was the Rouge Volupte Shine. This lipstick is an experience—very sensual-feeling, hydrating, luxurious and wet-looking, but it doesn’t smudge and lasts for hours. “South Florida women especially want a hydrating lipstick,” said Mr. Ashley. “But the key is getting color and sheerness at the same time. You want that pop of color… the pigment, while still being sheer.” Mr. Ashley said that coral and bright pink shades will be big hits in Boca. For Spring eyes, he stressed not to overpower them. “Think light, airy and feminine,” he said. He suggested soft cream shades, and taupe colors for contouring. However, knowing this area likes its glitz, he suggested adding oomph with the false eyelash look provided by Volume Effect Faux Cil Shocking…in green! “Yes, green mascara,” he said. “It adds that pop of color to the neutral eye.” Totally attentiongetting! Lauren Johnson, Neiman Marcus PR BF Director, getting a makeover from Dell MA R C H 2 0 1 3 /
Lisa Sagneri, District Merchant for Macy’s East and Gail Arrojo, P&G Prestige Retail Account Executive
At the Dior counter, resident Artists Austin Locklear and Sherelle Young demonstrated to customers how to use Diorskin Airflash spray foundation. “It goes on so quick and easily, and the final finish gives you that runway flawless look,” said Ms. Young. The product has been blowing out of stores.
P&G Macy’s Associates, Macy’s Cosmetic Managers and Ed “E-Clazz” Stewart of E-Clazz Entertainment
Over at the M.A.C. cosmetic counter, Janie Carthome was showing her customer how to wear the newer bright lip shades. “Fuchsia, red, and purple shades are all about the lips this season. The eyes are taking a back seat in terms of the pop,” said Ms. Carthome. Some of her favorite lipstick colors from M.A.C. include a retro glamorous Dior Resident Artists Austin Locklear and red, “Ruby Woo,” and a hot cream Sherelle Young pink, “Girl about Town.” Carla Lowery at the CHANEL counter shared the hottest-selling lipstick colors: “The red bold lips are a musthave buy for Spring 2013. Our Rouge Allure Lipstick offers intense colors. Pirate, Inimitable and Passion are all very strong red hues for Spring,” said Ms. Lowery. BF
Chanel Beauty Associates Carla Lowery and Masoumeh Parhizkar
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THELATESTLAUNCHES
BOTTEGA VENETA’S WATERFALL
B
(continued from page 25)
ottega Veneta, a House famous for its luxurious leather goods, branched out into the perfumer’s art with Bottega Veneta Eau de Parfum, inspired by the Venetian countryside. It now has a companion, Bottega Veneta Eau Légère, a leathery floral chypre whose top notes echo and preserve the identity of its elder sibling. Master Perfumer Michel Almairac Bottega described its creation as Veneta’s Eau “passing the original fra- Légère grance through a waterfall.” The Eau de Toilette presents with brilliant top notes reminiscent of the Eau de Parfum. The heart beats to t h e r hy t h m o f a f l o ra l accord, now animated by delicate gardenia. Its base notes of musk and oak moss provide a feminine and graceful foundation. It is priced at $80.00 for 1.7 oz, and at $115.00 for 2.5 oz. Eau Légère’s launch is accompanied by an advertising campaign featuring Nine D’Urso, the “face” of Bottega Veneta Fragrance. Photographed by Bruce Weber in South Florida, she is seen in a less formal and more relaxed pose. Eau Légère, originally available exclusively at Saks Fifth Avenue and Neiman Marcus in February, will be sold at select retailers nationwide beginning this month.
Nine D’Urso, Bottega Veneta’s “face”
BF
weightless, comfortable Luminous Liquid Bronzer that both brightens the skin and offers a pearlized, reflective base for sheer ra d i a n c e . B o t h t h e Bronze Goddess Powder Bronzer and the Luminous Liquid Bronzer are packaged in an island-inspired Pure Color Illuminating Powder Gelée pattern. Nor is the sun-drenched body neglected. Estée Lauder offers up a cult favorite, the Limited Edition Bronze Goddess Eau Fraiche SkinScent (100 ml for $60.00) and its chosen companion, the Bronze Goddess Body Oil (100 ml for $50.00). Within the Bronze Goddess Eau Fraiche SkinScent beats a heart of amber. Add to that Coconut Milk. Sandalwood, Vanilla, Vetiver, Myrrh, Juicy Mandarin, Sicilian Bergamot, Lemon, Pulpy Orange, Tiare Flower, Jasmine, Magnolia Petals, Orange Flower Buds and Lavender, and you have an entire island in a bottle. The same ingredients are infused in the body oil, enriched with emollients. If no man is an island, every woman can be—if Estée Lauder has anything to do with Pure Color it. Sheer Roller But that’s not all. Estée Lauder is also Gloss in Succulent introducing Tom Pecheux’s Pure Color Nail Lacquer French Nudes Collection. “This collection is like a foundation for nails,” he explained. “It’s all about enhancing nails, rather than making a big statement with color.” The collection comprises five “nudes” priced at $20.00 for 0.3 oz. in chocolate brown, creamy cocoa, m i l ky b e i g e a n d a couple of soft pinks. All the above products are available in March 2013 at Estée Lauder counters and at esteelauder.com. Pure Color Palette in Batik BF
BEAUTY FASHION (ISSN00057487) is published monthly by Beauty Fashion 16 E. 40th Street, Suite 700 New York, NY 10016 U.S.A. (212) 840-8800. Fax: (212) 840-7246. Subscription: Domestic $25.00 a year. Foreign: Canada and Mexico $50.00: Air Mail-Europe and all other countries $175.00. Single copy price: $5.00 except directory issues which are $10.00. Periodical postage paid at New York and additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address change to Beauty Fashion 16 East 40th Street Suite 700 New York, NY 10016 U.S.A PUBLISHER CONFIDENTIALITY POLICY The subscription lists of this publication are maintained on a confidential basis. Beauty Fashion has never marketed, sold or otherwise distributed, its subscription lists for any commercial or other purpose.
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2013 MARCH 2 - 3
The Makeup Show LA California Market Center • Los Angeles CA (T) (TA) www.themakeupshow.com
MARCH 6
Cosmetic Executive Women Beauty Insiders’ Choice Awards Product Demo Metropolitan Pavilion • NYC 6:00 PM Members Only (646) 929-8026 www.cew.org
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Cosmoprof Bologna Bologna Italy (T) www.cosmoprof.com
MARCH 12
March of Dimes Beauty Ball Celebrating M.O.D. 75th Anniversary, with Deejay DJ Cassidy, Auctioneer CK Swett and CBS Co-Anchor Kristine Johnson Cipriani 42nd Street • NYC 7:00 PM (B) (TA) (212) 353-1143 jcarlo@marchofdimes.com
MARCH 15 - 17
Beauty International Dusseldorf Germany (T) (312) 781-5185 www.mdna.com
MARCH 21
Cosmetic Executive Women Women & Men in Beauty Series West Coast: Hair Innovators with Frederic Fekkai, Hershberger’s Sally Hershberger & Ouidad Founder Ouidad Fairmont Miramar Hotel • Santa Monica CA 6:00 PM (R) (S) (TA) (646) 929-8026 www.cew.org
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Cosmetic Executive Women Women & Men in Beauty Series New York: Maximizing Mobile Moments with Facebook’s Erin Hunter & L’Oréal Paris’ Kelly Solomon Harmonie Club • NYC 5:30 PM (R) (TA) (646) 929-8026 www.cew.org
APRIL 10
QVC Beauty Event NYC 4:30 PM (IO) (212) 730-7277
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Fashion Group International Fall/Winter 2014 Trend Presentation Time Life Building • NYC 9:30 AM, 10:30 AM, 12:00 PM (TA) (212) 302-5511 www.fgi.org
APRIL 18
Cosmetic Executive Women Women & Men in Beauty Series New York: The Estée Lauder Companies’ Dream Team: Beauty Product Innovators with MAC’s Jennifer Balbier, Estée Lauder & Tom Ford Beauty’s Anne Carullo, & Estée Lauder’s Karyn Khoury Harmonie Club • NYC 5:30 PM (R) (TA) (646) 929-8026 www.cew.org
APRIL 19
Fragrance Foundation Fragrance Foundation Awards 2013 Finalists Breakfast Mandarin Oriental • NYC 8:30 AM Members Only (A) (212) 725-2755 www.fragrance.org
APRIL 20 - 21
Avon Walk for Breast Cancer Houston, TX www.avonwalk.org
APRIL 20 - 23
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Luxe Pack Shanghai Shanghai Intl Convention Center Shanghai China (T) www.luxepack.com
APRIL 24
Fashion Group International Beauty Symposium Hilton Hotel • NYC 11:15 AM (TA) (212) 302-5511 www.fgi.org
APRIL 30
Pratt Institute Art of Packaging Award Gala Honoring Veronique Gabai-Pinsky and Aramis & Designer Fragrances Benefiting the Marc Rosen Scholarship & Education Fund for Packaging by Design at Pratt Institute University Club • NYC 6:30 PM Reception, Dinner (A)
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Avon Walk for Breast Cancer Washington, DC www.avonwalk.org
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