NOVEMBER 2010 | Nยบ 166 | Free
LAPORTA FROM BARร A TO POLITICS
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Contents NOVEMBER 2010 INTERVIEW 14 Joan Laporta
Features 13 Interview 18 City focus Little known killer 22 Dispatches Fungi foraging 26 Street life Carrer Tallers 36 Food and drink Reviews and more
Regulars 6 You the reader 7 City snapshot 8 On the web 11 Columns 29 On 58 Back page
DIRECTORIES 40 Food & Drink 44 Marketplace
26. Street life
From the Editor: This month our cover article is an interview with ‘man of the moment’ Joan Laporta. Nicola Thornton interviewed the ex-president of Barça as he was preparing for this month’s elections. They talk politics, football and the importance of Catalan independence. We delve into history with Nick Lloyd who looks at the fascinating life of Ramón Mercader who murdered Leon Trotsky, whilst Tara Stevens celebrates mushroom hunting season with a guide to where the best spots are and what to pick. This month there’s a huge amount of cultural reasons for getting out of the house and our ON section is packed with dance, comedy and film festivals to keep you busy. Big name bands coming to town include Vampire Weekend, Interpol and Arcade Fire. Art wise, don’t miss the hard-hitting World Press Photo exhibition that opens at the CCCB, always a rewarding experience. Katy MacGregor *Correction: In editing the article DIY Culture in last month’s magazine, we mistakenly specified that Experimentem amb l’Art had history as a theatre company. They have asked us to point out they are in fact an arts organisation and we are happy to do so.
33. VAMPIRE WEEKEND
Publisher Creative Media Group, S.L. Managing Director Esther Jones Acting Senior Editor Katy MacGregor Acting Assistant Editor Natasha Young Art Director Aisling Callinan Design Assistant Anna Klein Sales Director Rainer Hobrack Account Executives Richard Cardwell Sales Assistant Claire MacGrail Financial Assistant Freny Tavadia Editorial Assistant Dylan Clive Contributors Jonathan Bennett, Lucy Brzoska, Will Dunn, Christina Quaine, Roger de Flower, Tara Stevens, Nicola Thornton, Nick Lloyd, Sara Blaylock, Hannah Pennell, Lauren Mannion Photographers Lee Woolcock, Lucy Brzoska, Patricia Esteve Illustrator Ben Rowdon Editorial Office Enric Granados 48, entlo. 2ª, 08008 Barcelona. Tel. 93 451 4486, Fax. 93 451 6537; editorial@barcelona-metropolitan.com Sales ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com General enquiries info@barcelona-metropolitan.com. www.barcelona-metropolitan.com Printer Litografia Rosés Depósito Legal B35159-96 The views expressed in Barcelona Metropolitan are not necessarily those of the publisher. Reproduction, or use, of advertising or editorial content herein, without express permission, is prohibited.
Find your nearest
distribution point www.barcelona-metropolitan.com
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06 YOU THE READER
Metropolitan events Networking social event at Margarita Blue Join us on November16th, from 7.30pm, at Margarita Blue (Josep Anselm Clavé 6) for an evening of networking, live music and a cheeky glass or two of cava. With live Cuban jazz courtesy of Laia Porta and Friends and Margarita Blue’s legendary cocktails and food, this is your chance to make new friends or contacts and meet the Metropolitan team. Get there before 9pm for your free glass of cava or a chupito and discounted drinks if you have dinner. For more information, email readers@barcelona-metropolitan.com or become a fan of Barcelona Metropolitan on facebook: www.facebook.com (Barcelona Metropolitan Readers).
www.meetup.com/Barcelona-Metropolitan-Readers: join up to find out about all our events.
November walking tour: Parc Ciutadella & La Barceloneta Join us on Sunday November 21st for one of our Sunday strolls. This time we combine two areas of the city with an intrinsically interconnected history. Our friendly native English guide will detail the park’s plighted past and the role it played in putting Barcelona on the map and contributing to the outbreak of the modernisme movement. The tour will then take in the Barceloneta barrio, shedding light on its emergence as the home of the city’s fisherfolk, pondering its baroque blemishes and finishing at a suitable bar for a Sunday seafood snack. All you need to do to join us is turn up at noon at the main entrance to the Parc de la Ciutadella, Passeig de Lluís Companys with Passeig de Pujades. The tour costs e12, payable in cash at the start of the walk.
Become a Facebook fan of Barcelona Metropolitan. Our page on Facebook features information about what’s going on in Barcelona, and offers users the chance to share ideas, tips and advice about being a foreign resident here.
Newsletter Receive our weekly newsletter To get the best of Barcelona delivered to your inbox, simply go to our website, www.barcelona-metropolitan.com, to sign up.
You can also follow us on Twitter— ‘bcnmetropolitan’ posts regular tweets about what’s happening in the city and we’d like to hear about Barcelona from you too.
Appeal The Royal British Legion Poppy Appeal At 11am on November 11th 1918, the First World War officially ended. To remember those who were lost and to raise money for service people and their families, the British Royal Legion have once again launched an appeal. To get your poppy and make a donation, you can pop by the Metropolitan office on weekdays between 10am and 5pm. We’re at C/Enric Granados 48, entlo. 2ª. www.britishlegion.org.uk
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Online Community Connect with other foreigners in the city by going to the community tab on our homepage, www. barcelona-metropolitan.com. Ask questions, meet people or even set up a special interest group.
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YOU THE READER 07
CITY SNAPSHOT
It’s a bumper month for gigs, see our ON section for an idea of what’s here, but what do the city’s many music lovers listen to when they’re pounding the streets? We ask nine readers what’s on their playlists.
JOANNA MARTIN, 18 TIZIANA TALOU, 41 ITALIAN ENGLISH “NEGRAMARO.” “ A BALLERINA.”
JACK HUMPHREY, 18 ALICE GAILLARD, 23 ENGLISH FRENCH “A MEXICAN CHEF.” “ALAIN SOUCHON.”
YORN, 19 MIRELLA THEODOSSIOU,CEDRIC 26 AMERICAN MADAGASCAN “JAY-Z.” “A BLUE POWER RANGER.”
FLORENCE CHAMP, 31 19 ANDERS PETERSSON, FRENCH SWEDISH “A PAINTER.” “CROOKED I.”
ANAIS GSCHWIND,24 23 DORIS OBERHOFER. AUSTRALIAN GERMAN “A SCUBA DIVER.” “DAVID GUETTA.”
FACUNDOOVAIS GUIÑAZÚ, HAI, 18 36 ARGENTINIAN ENGLISH “ENRIQUE IGLESIAS.” “A ROCK STAR.”
MARCOS DE ANDRÉS, 18 SPANISH “NON SERVIUM.”
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MIGUEL TORRES, 19 SPANISH “ALL TIME LOW.”
FELICIA FRANSSON, 19 SWEDISH “THE KOOKS.”
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08 ON THE WEB
Interview On the web this month, Cailin Smart interviews Hiroko Sagawa who crafts beautiful Japanese slippers from old family kimonos in her spare time. Find out how it’s done and where you can buy them at: www.barcelona-metropolitan.com/slippers
Competition Ask the expert
Go from culinary dud to kitchen hero by winning a copy of Suddenly Cooking: The Complete Kitchen Survival Guide for Adult Beginner Cooks, Limited
For the second month, our ‘Ask the Expert’ feature is with
Cooks & the Kitchen Phobic by Sophie Ruggles. To
Tine Mathiassen from Casamona International SL. If you
win a copy of the book, simply tell Sophie your
have any questions you would like to ask Tine Mathiassen
worst culinary disaster story, (in no more than 200
about any aspect of property, whether buying or renting
words) and the funniest will be sent a copy. For
then please email them to:
more details go to:
editorial@barcelona-metropolitan.com
www.barcelona-metropolitan.com/cooking
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ON THE WEB 09
The archive Since the launch of our website last year, we’ve uploaded lots of our old articles onto the site. There’s everything from an interview with a gegant maker to a report on the city’s electronic music scene. Click the archive tab on the website to have a browse. Each month we will be choosing one article to give you a taster of what’s there. This month, we look back to March 2005 when Michael Kessler interviewed Ronaldinho. See also our cover interview with Barça’s ex-president Joan Laporta, pg. 14.
Image courtesy of the departament de premsa FC Barcelona
Ronaldinho: The world’s best footballer He’s not as handsome as David Beckham nor does he sport as many tattoos. He probably sells as many club shirts as the Englishman but it’s not what defines him. Nor does he make the headlines in international gossip mags. But, Barcelona F.C.’s Ronaldo de Assis Moreira, known to fans as Ronaldinho Gaucho, is pure marketing gold, simply because he’s the best. Recently crowned by football’s highest body, FIFA, as the world’s best player, the 25-year-old Brazilian from Porto Alegre now has the world in his hands—and at his feet. Closer to home, his on-field vision and guile have been largely responsible for lifting Barcelona to a commanding lead at the top of La Liga and well placed for the first time in many seasons to get a good crack at European glory this year. Ronaldinho is an idol to his fans in Barcelona and the rest of the world, first and foremost because he lets his football do all the talking. His speed, creativity and dexterity make him that most special of footballer— someone who is capable of doing anything with the ball every time it comes his way. And, when it comes his way, there is a sense of dramatically rising expectation amongst spectators. Ronaldinho is a crowd pleaser, someone who gets people to come to the game because he’s a pleasure to watch play. Today Barcelona fans can consider themselves lucky that they count Ronaldinho as one of theirs. Because it was far from meantto-be. In mid-2003, Barça president Joan Laporta won the club’s elections on the basis that he would bring David Beckham to Barça. That didn’t happen, and in the meantime, Ronaldinho, who was anxious to move on from French club Paris St. Germain, had made it his clear intention that playing for Manchester United was his dream. A handshake promise to the Red Devils seemed to have sealed it. At the time, his manager, mentor and brother Roberto Assis made declarations that Ronaldinho would not become a Barça player. Real Madrid looked like a stronger possibility. Barça then upped the ante and forked out a phenomenal 43.7 million for the
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Brazilian. Ronaldinho was Barça’s. To read the rest of the article, go to: www.barcelona-metropolitan. com/ronaldinho
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COLUMNS 11
Wild Barcelona Text and photos by Lucy Brzoska
Heading home By Will Dunn and Christina Quaine
Forest floor finds
I
up like the brim of a hat and all the spores get their chance to be carried away by the wind. Job done, the inkcap collapse in a heap. The woodland floor of Collserola is littered with a dry mix of pine needles, oak leaves and shards of crumbling stone and if you look closer you’ll see diminutive fungi pushing their way through; earth stars. When fresh and dough-like, they seem recently Fresh puffballs cut out by a pastry-cutter. Part of the same family, puffballs are tender and fragrant when newly emerged and good fried in butter. With age they turn brown and exhale their content of spores on bursting. In the UK they’re known as gem studded puffballs or devil’s snuffbox, in Catalunya as pets de llop—wolf farts.
n its new low angle, the November sun is
blinding, shining directly into your eyes. The plane trees have been shedding their leaves since the first heat of summer, but now the street sweepers are shovelling them away in mounds, one of the few signs of autumn in the city.
Will Dunn and Christina Quaine are two journalists from London who moved to Barcelona for a year. Their time in the city has come to an end and in this, their last column, they talk about the experience of being back home.
W
e’ve been home for two months now and we have quickly become reaccustomed to rain, fish and chips
and tutting about how rubbish London Underground is. So much so, that our year in Barcelona seems like a lifetime ago. On our first night in the city we walked up to Parc Güell and gazed out at the vast, intimidating city below, both of us silently wondering whether we had done the right thing by moving to a place where we had no jobs, knew nobody and didn’t speak the language. But those initial fears passed, things fell into place and we got on with the glamorous business of eating dinner at 11pm and having a balcony (well, a door that opened out onto some railings which overlooked the street). Of course, there were difficult times, like when a day-trip in the car to Sitges was aborted when the Vauxhall Astra was not in the car park in which it had been
Lucy Brzoska runs nature
left. Instead, there were about 100 coaches. The
tours in Barcelona and writes for www.iberianature.com
car did turn up, though. In another car park. With a broken window. We spent the day driving around Barcelona trying to find an open garage which
Up in Collserola, where the woods are dominated by evergreen holm oaks and pines—and where red admiral butterflies sunbathe on the tracks all year round—the sense of seasonal change can also be muted. But for a direct blast of autumn, take a walk on the Molins de Rei ridge. With sharp views of Montserrat in splendid isolation, you’re fully exposed to the northerly winds and Barcelona’s sheltered streets seem far away. In damp shady corners, under brambles and in rotting mulch, fungi materialise. Look out for parasol mushrooms, whose large, flat caps are good grilled with cheese, or glistening magpie inkcaps, not particularly edible but fascinating as they develop. The inkcaps are flecked with fragments of veil, the dark brown heads gradually shrink and flatten. As the gills liquify, the dripping edges roll
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Magpie inkcaps
proved fruitless. Now that we’re home, lots of things trigger nostalgia for Barcelona, like reading in the newspaper that the temperature there is 25ºC and overhearing a Spanish woman talking on her mobile phone. We miss Barcelona, not just for the nice weather, the impressive architecture and the chocolate y churros. When you live somewhere for a time, you come to appreciate the quirks and the characteristics of the people which give a place its unique identity. It’s nice to sit here on a drizzly London day, thinking about city life carrying on without us. The butano men hauling their gas canisters along the cobbles of the old town; the old men on the beach at the crack of dawn, laughing, drinking and playing chess; the street hawkers selling fans in hot weather and umbrellas when it’s wet; the impossibly chic women and even the trainer shop below our flat, pumping out its annoying R&B. Perhaps we’ll return one day but for now, our Barcelona adventure is over.
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INTERVIEW 13
Rafel Bagot, Sports Journalist/Presenter, Catalan, 39 I was born in Blanes, which is the first town on the Costa Brava. My parents had three kids in four years. I’m the one in the middle. I got good grades at school although I never made a big effort. I thought it was more fun to work a little bit and then go play football or basketball. I’ve always been very sociable. At university I knew everyone. Sport is something I’ve always loved. It’s fun, but there are always winners and losers. People always think they know a lot about sport and that makes it interesting when I go to bars. I started at TV3 15 years ago as an indexer. This means you act as a filter between incoming news from around the world and the TV station. I would see a good goal, between Newcastle and Liverpool say, and then pitch it to the guy who does international football. I interviewed Tiger Woods once, although I wasn’t supposed to. It was during the Ryder Cup about 10 years ago in Valderrama, near Malaga. I was still working as an indexer but TV3 sent me to do a general report on the “Costa del Golf” because I was the only one who could speak English. I went to see the American team practising and just asked for a few words. I think they were surprised by the accent, so they let me. One of my best moments was meeting Pelé. It was at a show celebrating the 100th anniversary of Mundo Deportivo in Barcelona, where they showed a movie I’d made to record the ‘Best Sporting Moments’ of the last 100 years. They let me have two minutes, so I asked him about Ronaldhino, who had just come to Barça. I remember hugging him and thinking “I’m hugging part of history.” I would like to interview Michael Jordan. He is such a winner and a champion. He decided to be the best basketball player in history and he did it. And Maradona. He’s a legend, although he’d probably be a bit of a handful. In many ways, I prefer radio to TV. My first presenting experience was at Radio Blanes, where I did a cultural magazine show for four or five years. I like the fact you don’t depend on anyone else and you can create your own atmosphere. I’m very proud of Pau Gasol, the centre for the Lakers, I did his first TV interview. He was just turning 18 and about to start playing for the Barça first team. The interview was at his house and he had loads of NBA posters on his wall. He was very grounded and very tall. Now he’s not only playing for the NBA, he’s the centre for the two-times champion team. Whenever I see him, I think “Hey, I knew you when you were a kid.” It’s hard to say which is my most embarrassing TV moment! There are a few because we go out live. Sometimes the Autocue doesn’t work and when I look down at my papers, I’ve got no notes. Although I research and write 95 percent of what I read, it’s usually the five percent I haven’t done! I’ve found the best thing is just to smile and accept that I’m human. I’m a man who can multitask. I have to! Presenting 24-hour news can be stressful. At the same moment you are reading the Autocue, there’s a producer telling you to do something else, then you might announce you are going live to something and the technician says “No!” You have to improvise a lot. I often think of it as being a trapeze artist at the circus but without the net. Interview by Nicola Thornton. Photo by Lee Woolcock.
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14 INTERVIEW
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INTERVIEW 15
JOAN LAPORTA Joan Laporta has left football behind for the world of politics. A candidate in this month’s elections, Nicola Thornton talks to the man hoping to become elected on an independent ticket. By Nicola Thornton. Photos by Lee Woolcock.
I
t’s a rainy morning, mid-September in
for the country that we generate something
develop themselves and the interest of their
Barcelona but Joan Laporta is in good
new, something professional, fresh and in-
parties, without considering the interests of
spirits. Having enjoyed one of the most
novative. I created my own party with the
the country.
celebrated careers in football, as President of
idea of explaining to people the advantages
Barça FC from 2003 until 2010, the 48-year-
Catalunya would have as an E.U. state. My
old Catalan lawyer is about to embark on a
proposal was to join all the political parties
new phase of his career. As the candidate for
with parliamentary representation—wheth-
the newly formed Solidaritat Catalana in
er independentist or catalanist—and create
this month’s Generalitat elections, Laporta
a coalition, to go into the next elections to-
is making an aggressive bid for Catalunya
gether, with the mandate of building a new
to become an independent E.U. state. Here,
Catalan state in Europe. This was my pro-
the softly spoken man of steel tells Metro-
posal. It was accepted by individual people,
politan why.
citizens’ movements and political parties without representation but the ones that had
What prompted you to become a fully-fledged
representation in Parliament decided not to
politician?
join. I have to respect that.
I wanted to promote and defend the rights and freedoms of Catalunya. As the President of Barça, I was able to promote the image of Catalans internationally, but I never thought I would make the step into politics until about a year before my mandate ended. I had been involved in some demonstrations as an individual but, of course, I could not compromise my position as Barça President, so I thought it would be an idea to use the popularity I gained as President and my trajectory as President, and the knowledge and experiences I have had in my life, to promote my
“Every year, the average Catalan is poorer and poorer and we have to change this situation. The only way we can prosper and create a better future is to have our own state.”
country. After a lot of reflection, I decided to
Why should Catalunya be independent from Spain? Because we are suffering. Our economic deficit is huge by consequence of our relationship with the Spanish state. Every year we are losing out. 10 percent of our budget goes to Spain and it doesn’t come back. This is not sustainable for our economy, so in this sense the only solution is independence, to manage our resources ourselves. We are talking about creating a state in order to administer our money 100 percent. Our goal is to achieve a better life for our citizens. Catalan families have to have the chance to be successful in life. At the moment, we are like a slow train moving. You have spoken recently about how the Generalitat lacks a business ethic. Why is this important? Our parliament contains the least amount of businessmen compared to others in Europe. Only 18 percent of our politicians are businessmen and we need more initiatives, more enthusiastic people, people that create, people that work to give services to our country
go into politics. Has it created conflict?
and who don’t think about their own interests or the interests of their political parties.
Why did you decide to form your own party
I had my suspicions they would not accept it.
rather than join one of the existing ‘inde-
And the reason they did not accept, I know,
pendence’ parties, like Reagrupament, for
is because they are afraid of change and
citizens. If we extinguished our fiscal defi-
example?
change that is good. Because they practise a
cit, Cataluyna would be the fourth state in
With respect to the traditions of politi-
kind of corporate politics, I think they refuse
Europe. Every year, e22,000 million of our
cal parties and the movements we had at
to face up to the reality...they think it’s nec-
budget goes to Spain in taxes and doesn’t
the time, I thought it was more important
essary to maintain the status quo in order to
come back. This is a huge amount of money;
14-16.Laporta.indd 3
They need to think properly and seriously about the interests of our culture and our
>>
11/2/10 12:48:24 PM
16 INTERVIEW alunya. I wish the new president all the best because I think the institution is at the heart of the Catalan people and it’s very important for our country to have a strong Barça in order to support and develop our culture, you know, because sport is culture. Who do you most admire? I like Ghandi very much. I am reading his biography at the moment, and I like the process of Indian independence very much. Pacific [peaceful] resistance is the essence of democracy. I think that the process of liberation for a country is about democracy and peace, but active peace. You have to really believe in your culture and your principals and then start the democratic process. How do you switch off and relax? (Laughs) I work as a lawyer! I’ve had my own firm for 23 years. As you can see from my career, I like to develop projects that are close to the people. I don’t know whether I have the vocation to serve people, but at the same time, I believe it is important to have something “epic” going on, because we need the epic to be enthusiastic. Do you think Catalunya will have its own World Cup team one day? It’s my dream, of course, and now it is the right moment and the right time because, after decades of political, cultural, and economical crisis, it is the right time to move toward independence. Becoming an [indemoney we could use to develop social poli-
hind Ceuta and Melilla. Every year, the aver-
cies, policies to support our companies. We
age Catalan is poorer and poorer and we have
could reduce the tax for companies, reduce
to change this situation. The beast of auton-
You know that this process is not against
the tax for the people, our retired people
omy means it is impossible to do this consti-
Spain, it is not against anybody. It is in favour
could increase their pensions, our workers
tutionally. The resolution by the State earlier
of Catalunya. And I think that competition in
could have better salaries and our companies
this year against Catalunya’s constitutional
Spain will be good for the European Union. I
would have more credibility for their invest-
core showed us that if you want to progress,
think it will be good for Catalans, Spaniards
ments. The traditional solutions that we have
the best solution is to be an independent state
and the European Union. Having our own
experienced do nothing for the citizens.
in the E.U., because if we are independent,
state will not be bad for anybody—it will be
When I talk about Catalans, I’m talking
that €22,000 million that doesn’t come back
good for everybody.
about all those who live and work in our
now will be ours, and with it, we can work on
country: businessmen, workers, retired peo-
behalf of the interests of Catalans. The only
As a man who was born and bred here, what
ple, young people and immigrants. We started
way we can prosper and create a better future
does Barcelona mean to you?
our campaign in August and are really ex-
is to have our own state.
It is the city that I want to live in. The plan-
pendent] state is the only way we will have the chance to participate in the World Cup.
cited and motivated because the movement
I had some experience of the importance of
ning of the city is wonderful...we have the
is growing. We have more activists than some
this as President of Barça, when I realised my
sea, we have the mountains, we have every-
political parties that have been working for
country is not recognised in the international
thing and you know, our people are warm
longer. I am convinced that we will get seats
community. Barça did well to promote our
and peaceful. There are also plenty of tourists
in parliament and that we are doing the right
image to the world, but this is not the normal
since the Olympic Games. That really put us
work.
route....we are a culture, we have a language,
on the map.
we have institutions, we have a national con-
In terms of my favourite places, I like the ter-
science and we have the right to be free.
race of the Hotel Majestic very much. I like
Barcelona and Catalunya already appear to be rich regions compared to most other towns
Rambla Catalunya and Passeig de Gràcia. I
and cities in Spain. Public services are good,
You had a phenomenal career at Barça. What
like Plaça del Fossar de les Moreres because it
there is excellent infrastructure, jobs and
do you see as your legacy there?
commemorates Catalan resistance. I also like
businesses. Isn’t this just a standard case of
When I took over as President, my goal was to
the sensation I have in some places: Passeig de
the distribution of wealth?
build the best Barça in history—and we did
St. Joan, for example. I was born there, and
In terms of purchasing power, we are actually
it! To me, Barça is one more way to defend
whenever I go and visit my mother, I always
the twelfth richest area in Spain. We fall be-
and promote the rights and privileges of Cat-
feel something special; I smell the city here.
14-16.Laporta.indd 4
11/2/10 12:48:26 PM
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main pages - Nov 10 .indd 5
10/20/10 3:20:32 PM
18 CITY FOCUS
18-20 Trotsky.indd 34
Image courtesy of the Fundaci贸 Pere Ardiaca
Ram贸n Mercader
10/20/10 11:59:34 AM
CITY FOCUS 19
LITTLE KNOWN KILLER The story of the Catalan communist who murdered Leon Trotsky By Nick Lloyd
.
O
n August 20th, 1940, a 27-year-old
His mother Caridad Mercader née Caridad
At the outbreak of the Spanish Civil War
Catalan drove an ice axe into the
del Río was from a family of aristocratic
in July 1936, Ramón took an active part in
head of Leon Trotsky at his Mexican
landowners in Santiago de Cuba. Following
the successful defeat of the military rebellion
home. The blow failed to kill him, and Trot-
Spain’s loss of the colony in 1898, the fam-
in Barcelona. The war that would tear Spain
sky struggled with his assassin. His guards,
ily moved to Catalunya where Caridad, at
apart had begun, but in Barcelona at least,
hearing the commotion, burst in and set upon
the age of just 16, married Pablo Mercader,
the forces of the left, led by the CNT, were
the assailant, but Trotsky stopped them, ex-
a rich Catalan industrialist. The couple had
victorious. The anarchist CNT trade union
claiming, “Do not kill him! This man has a
five children but Caridad grew to detest the
was in virtual control of the city and at once
story to tell.” Trotsky died the next day, and
staid, bourgeoisie existence and found her-
set about collectivising huge swathes of Bar-
the murderer was turned over to the police.
self drawn to the Bohemian life she discov-
celona’s, commerce, services and industries. It
He identified himself as Jacques Mornard, a
ered along El Paral.lel, with its heady mix of
was a revolution of historic proportions, com-
disillusioned Belgian Trotskyist. He said he
cabaret artists, bon viveurs and anarchists.
parable only with the Paris Commune and the
had killed the old Bolshevik after quarrelling
Seduced by the latter’s revolutionary ideals,
Russian Revolution itself. Against this tumul-
over a woman and was sentenced to 20 years
Caridad soon became involved in direct ac-
tuous background, on July 23rd, the Catalan
in prison.
tion, even setting fire to her husband’s factory
communist and socialists met in the Bar del
Though few knew Mornard’s true identity,
before being caught and sent to a lunatic asy-
Pi (La Plaça del Pi) and hurriedly joined to-
the fact that the assassination had been or-
lum. Her anarchist friends managed to spring
gether to form the PSUC (Partido Socialista
dered by Stalin was an open secret. Further-
her from captivity, and she fled to France with
Unificado de Cataluña), thus forming a new
more a number of Catalan republicans in
her children in 1925, never forgiving the Mer-
communist party, independent from Madrid.
Mexico knew something more. They recog-
cader family for imprisoning her.
Moscow was deeply suspicious of this new
nised the killer’s photo in the press, but did
In France, after her brief flirtation with an-
Catalan organisation, which had broken the
not want to reveal his true identity for fear of
archism, Caridad embraced communism, at-
Comintern’s iron rule of “One State, One Par-
provoking a reaction against the many Span-
tracted by its discipline and surety of purpose.
ty.” They need not have bothered; The PSUC
ish refugees in the country. Finally in 1952,
She become a fanatical Stalinist and eventu-
soon proved itself to be a loyal servant of Sta-
Mercader slipped up. A prison guard heard
ally an NKVD agent. She also indoctrinated
lin’s policies and was so successful at crush-
the “Belgian” singing a nursery rhyme Què li
young Ramón as an ardent communist, filling
ing socialist opposition from within that the
darem, en el Noi de la Mare? Què li darem que
him with hatred for all enemies of the party.
model of merging the two parties was copied
li’n sàpiga bo?1 in perfect Catalan from his
In his early twenties, Mercader moved back
in Hungary and Poland in the late Forties.
cell. This clue led the authorities to his real
to Barcelona, where he helped organise the
Two days later, on July 25th 1936, the first
identity: his name was Ramón Mercader, and
then tiny Spanish communist party. For this
column of volunteers was organised under
he was indeed an NKVD agent.
involvement he was arrested and spent a brief
the anarchist leader Buenaventura Durruti,
period in prison, before being released in 1936
and Ramón, though a communist, signed up
after the victory of the Popular Front.
to fight. He was seriously wounded on the
Ramón Mercader was born in Barcelona to a well-to-do family on February 7th, 1913.
>>
1.’What shall we give the mother’s boy? What shall we give him that tastes so good?’ One has to wonder whether he had in mind the constant dark shadow of his own mother when the rhyme slipped out.
18-20 Trotsky.indd 35
10/20/10 11:59:35 AM
20 CITY FOCUS Image courtesy of the Fundació Pere Ardiaca
>>
Aragonese Front and returned to Barcelona in December. Here, his mother convinced him to become a Soviet spy, and he cut his teeth, reporting on foreign volunteers and teaching espionage to David Crook, a young British communist in charge of spying on George Orwell who was in Barcelona. The war staggered on, but the NKVD had greater plans for Mercader and in July he was summoned to Moscow. There, he was trained in the arts of deception, sabotage and assassination and given the code name Gnome. In 1938, Gnome was set up in the Sorbonne area of Paris as a wealthy Belgium student, Jacques Mornard. He was handsome, impeccably mannered and endowed with flawless French and English. He quickly seduced Sylvia Ageloff, an American confident of Trotsky. The relationship paid off and he eventually gained an invitation to the home of the old Russian near Mexico City. Mercader’s mother had also moved to Mexico to oversee the operation, entitled, appropriately enough, “Mother.” Once Mercader had ingratiated himself within Trotsky’s inner circle, it was simply a case of choosing his weapon and moment. After 20 years in a Mexican jail without revealing a word, Mercader was finally released in 1960, he was 47 years old. After a year exiled in Cuba, he moved back to the USSR and was presented with the Hero of the Soviet Union, awarded to him originally by Stalin. He was only one of 41 foreigners to receive the country’s highest accolade. Mercader would then divide his time between Moscow and Cuba, his
Caridad Mercader
mother’s birth country, staying as an honoured guest of Castro’s government. Meanwhile, his mother, Caridad, a constant shadow in his life, worked at the Cuban embassy in Paris. She died in 1975 in some luxury, surrounded by her jewels, perfumes and expensive clothes, an unrepentant Stalinist, reputedly drinking 40 coffees and smoking 80 cigarettes a day. The years passed and Mercader grew increasingly homesick for his native Catalunya. With the legalisation of the Communist Party of Spain in 1977 and the return of many of its leaders, Ramón saw his chance, and asked the General Secretary of the Communist Party of Spain (PCE), Santiago Carrillo for permission to come home. Carillo, looking for an excuse to break with Moscow and a way to steer the party towards a Eurocommunist stance, invited Mercader to come back to Barcelona on the condition that he wrote his memoirs, telling all and naming his Moscow controllers. Carrillo hoped that Mercader’s damning account would serve as justification for the rupture, but disciplined to the end, Ramón refused. Better to die in a foreign land than betray his comrades. Meanwhile, his party, the PSUC, went on to play a key role in the opposition to Franco and the transition of Catalunya. It underwent a process of destalinisation and eventually reformed in 1987 as Iniciativa, the current coalition partner in the Barcelona Council and Catalan government. A man of his times, when individuals were swept away in ideological and geopolitical struggles, Ramón Mercader was a willing and murderous servant of Stalin to whom he remained stubbornly committed to until the very end. After dying of cancer in Santiago de Cuba
Mercader’s gravestone at Kuntsevo Cemetery
18-20 Trotsky.indd 36
in 1978, his ashes were flown to Moscow and buried in the Kuntsevo Cemetery, a place reserved for heroes of the USSR.
10/20/10 11:59:37 AM
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main pages - Nov 10 .indd 9
10/19/10 1:58:53 PM
22 DISPATCHES
FUNGI FORAGING It’s mushroom season and there are plenty of places to head if you want to pick your own. By Tara Stevens.
T
o get an idea of just how obsessive a sport the boletaire (wild mushroom hunting) is you need only look on Facebook. On it you will find innumerable groups among them simply ‘Bolets’
(wild mushrooms) which has 535 fans scattered across Catalunya, each as secretive as the other when it comes to prime hunting grounds. A love of the mushroom they may share, but you can be sure they don’t reveal its whereabouts. And yet, throughout the autumn you’ll see carloads of folk heading out of the city and into the hills in the hope of finding this most elusive of gourmet treasures. As the late great Catalan gourmand and writer Manuel Vázquez Montalbán put it, the best reason to go mushroom picking is that it’s one of the few things left in the world that is free. Add to that the thrill of a tramp through the fallen leaves, a slap up lunch in the country and maybe a night in a stone masia with some friends, a bottle of wine and a crackling fire and this mushroom hunting caper starts to seem like a rather good idea. There is good mushroom hunting ground all over Catalunya, but the Berguedà region must surely be its capital. The area is said to have more than 1500 different species (for culinary purposes, hunters generally select from the 30 or so tastiest varieties) sprouting from its damp, dark forests and hedgerows. On any given weekend through the autumn, all along the old Catharist trail known as the Camí dels Bons Homs (the Path of Good Men), which runs from the Montségur Castle in Berga to Tarascon on the French side of the Pyrenees, it’s all about the shrooms: the biggest, the prettiest and the tastiest just like the prize vegetable contest in farmers’ festivals everywhere. You’ll spot the boletaires too, crouched furtively beneath clusters of trees clutching muddied wicker baskets, traipsing nonchalantly through ditches and generally doing their best to look inconspicuous. One of the
22-24. Mushroom hunting.indd 34
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DISPATCHES 23
distinctive traits of the wild mushroom is that they tend to colonise the same area year after year, and the secret locations of these are passed from generation to generation by those that collect them. Top tip then: once you’ve got your special patch of rovellons, don’t give it up. A less competitive kind of sport can be enjoyed at the annual Mercat del Bolet de Guardiola de Berguedà. Think of it as Catalunya’s equivalent to the truffle market of Alba, albeit considerably less expensive, where pickers, sellers and buyers trade a variety of mushrooms from €8 to €30 a kilo. The market takes place daily from 1st September through 30th November and includes competitions, tastings and cooking courses as well as the usual communal feasting typical of Spanish festivals. Nothing really beats the thrill of the chase though and if you’re remotely nervous about going it alone, there are several guides in the region, contactable through local tourist offices, who’ll show you
quickly turns a sludgy green. They are at their best sautéed very lightly in butter and served as a side to something hearty like polenta and pork chops. Note many of the rovellons you see in the markets are imported from the huge, industrial farms of Soria, and may not be quite so ‘wild’ as they first appear. Pinetells (delicious milk cap mushrooms) are aptly named as one of the tastiest of the crop. They are distinguished by the orange milk that, like the rovelló, turns green soon after cutting. It can grow up to 15cms in diameter with a cap like Saturn: think red and orange concentric circles dotted with green. The stem is white with orange spots and it grows everywhere from the coast to the Pyrenees, from late August to early January. Because of its size, it’s a good choice for popping on the griddle with a little oil and garlic and serving as a starter, or in a sandwich with a juicy steak.
the ropes and help you safely identify your pickings. The Generalitat (www.gencat.com) also has a good general introduction to mushroom season on its website, citing useful information such as how to pick them (cut them at ground level and gather them in baskets not bags to ensure the spores continue to flourish in the forest) plus a guide to what’s what.
Know your mushrooms When it comes to gathering mushrooms the rule is; if in doubt, leave it alone. People die every year from ingesting poisonous species. That said, few things are more satisfying that sitting down to a plate of wild mushrooms that you picked yourself, lightly grilled and dressed with a pat of fresh, yellow butter. So seek carefully and enjoy.
Ou de Reig, the romantically named ‘royal egg’ is the king of the autumn with its chestnut like cap and pretty yellow gills. If slowly roasted, whole, it makes a perfect partner to lightly grilled ducks’ liver sprinkled with sea salt. Llenega (wax cap) proliferates in the Bages region from September to December. Its cap is the colour of arbequina olives and can grow up to 10cms across, with milky white gills. You’ll find it beneath pine trees in low mountain areas. Ceps (porcini) are easily recognisable by their dark flesh and plump, dumpling like bodies. The taste is mild, but shaved like truffles and drizzled with a fruity olive oil they make the most delicate carpacchio. Rovellons (bleeding white cap) emerge in early September and last through December. They are perhaps the most revered species in Catalunya, with a pretty tawny colour that unfortunately is easily confused with highly poisonous species. The surest way to know is when you cut the stem, the wine-coloured liquid that comes out
Múrgoles (Morels)
Múrgoles (morels) are probably the most distinctive looking mushroom of all with their conical, honeycomb caps. Lately, every time I’ve had them, they seem to come in a foie and cream sauce, which I must confess, I’ve so far failed to improve on. Fredolics (grey knight mushrooms) have a short season from September to November and are distinguished by bluish-grey colouring. The cap is knobbly, the gills a dirty white colour. It thrives in pine forests and comes out in force after a cold snap, so you might want to keep an eye on those temperatures. However it can be easily confused with a seriously poisonous variety, the spotted tricholoma, which is bigger with a scaly cap. If the stem is very spotty, don’t pick it. The Fredolic stem is generally spot-free. Eating-wise I’m not a big fan, but it does have its place among aficionados.
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22-24. Mushroom hunting.indd 35
10/20/10 1:36:05 PM
24 DISPATCHES
>>
The Carlet (panther cap) is a pretty, rose coloured mushroom with Bordeaux blushes over the cap. It has a good meaty flesh and is sweetish, providing it isn’t picked too big when it gets bitter. It thrives in oak and beech forests through September and October and lends itself well to bottling and preserving rather than eaten fresh. It’s the Carlet that you’ll see in brine or vinegar in jars and it makes a useful addition to winter stews and game dishes. Camagrocs or rossinyols (fleshy, peachy-hued chanterelles) grow between August and October. They thrive in pine forests particularly in the mossy areas at the foot of the tree. They grow in clusters, are trumpet-shaped with gills turned inside out in the all the colours of the sunset. They are very difficult to mistake and therefore one of the best marks for amateur boletaires. They are however the worst culprits for going slimy, so don’t overcook. Trompetes de la Mort (black trumpets, trumpets of death or horn of plenty) far from being deadly are delightful in a creamy pasta sauce. They are in season from August through December and look just like black chanterelles so they are difficult to mistake. Another good hunting opportunity for amateurs.
Where to stay The Molí del Casó is an old water mill converted into a smart B&B, located a few kilometres north of Berga. Built of local stone and wood it is heated by solar panels and an existing hydroelectric system, making it a good choice for eco-foodies. Most of the food in the restaurant comes from their herb (edible and medicinal), fruit and vegetable gardens and eggs from their own hens. They also organise cooking workshops and cheese and local wine tastings if you don’t feel up for the hunt. Barrio Terradellas 10, Bagà Tel. 93 824 4076 www.molidelcaso.es
Camagrocs or rossinyols (Chanterelles)
Top three restaurants for bolets Never let it be said that bolets are anything other than gourmet. Berga is a hive of high-end restaurants all of which specialise in mushroom dishes through the seasons. Els Casals Earned a star for chef Oriol Rovira’s inspired cooking. Everything is grown and reared in house. Sagàs Tel. 93 825 1200 www.hotelelscasals.com
Restaurant la Cabana A rather posh country inn, popular among the elusive boletaire during mushroom season for a slap up lunch. Nr. Berga Tel. 93 821 0470 www.lacabanaberga.com
Restaurante Sala This restaurant has a reputation for churning out some of the best and most inventive mushroom dishes around. Berga Tel. 93 821 1185 www.restaurantsala.com
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10/20/10 1:36:08 PM
main pages - Nov 10 .indd 1
10/19/10 1:56:08 PM
26 STREET LIFE
EL
P DE C. AI
C. TORR
ES I AM AT
C. E LL TA LS
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C. BE
RGAR
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C.
C. DE NZELLA
VALLDO
RS
JARDINS DE TORRES I CALVÉ
DE PE
C. DE MO
NTALEGRE
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C.
Camden (nº. 27)
C. DE LES RAMELLERES
AL ST
L DE LA R
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AMB L
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Carrer dels Tallers C. BONSUCCÉS
LA R
AMB L
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Text by Dylan Clive. Photos by Natasha Young
W
elcome to ‘music street’ where strangely clad young musos rub shoulders with gawking tourists and church-going grannies. If you’re in urgent need of a tattoo, some Eighties heavy rock 33’s, a Ramones babygro or a Fender Stratocaster, this is the place for you. Just along from the glorious Catholic church, La Parròquia de Sant Pere Nolasc (Plaça Castella nº. 6), Supermercat Petit Asia (nº. 77) proves that even goths need to eat. For those missing home comforts, take note. Not only can you find Patak’s Curry Sauces for a respectable 3.26, you’ll also find Branston Baked Beans with Sausages, Roses Lime Marmalade and Hereford Corned Beef sharing shelf space with the Asian goodies. Another one for foreign folk is clothes shop Holala Ibiza (nº. 73). Boasting a wide variety of both US and European vintage (and some very hot shop assistants), there’s everything from Japanese baseball shirts to American college jackets and lurid neon shift dresses. Prices are a little steep but with three branches in Barcelona, there’s no need to panic if you can’t find the right size. They have a much larger store just round the corner on Carrer Valldozella. If Fred Perry looks good on you then Retro City (nº. 47) is worth checking out as well. This small
fashion shop has been supplying ‘vintage for the masses’ for the last five years. They may have branches in Gràcia, Madrid and London but shop assistant Fermin Machado prefers Carrer Tallers: “It’s the best street. There’s nothing else quite like it.” Take care when trying on the boots at Retro City though, as many are inhabited by scantily dressed Barbie dolls. For similarly revealing outfits only in human sizes, Camden (nº. 27 and nº. 30) offers a range of sexy gothic clothing. Previously located in Gràcia and with a large selection of red, purple and black leather corsets gracing its walls, it has been a paradise for those into studded lingerie for the past ten years. Named after the famous London suburb, they also sell T-shirts, badges and a gruesome-looking selection of toys and action figures for the Jedi masters out there. And don’t worry about struggling to find a pair of shoes to go with your Camden outfit; Camden Shoes (nº. 29) is just across the street. Dotted around the dark and narrow Tallers are a number of more traditional, delightfully worn out-looking shops and signs. Look out for possibly the grumpiest barber in Europe at number 11, the old-fashioned paper merchants at number 22 and the peeling sign to the closed down Perfumeria Blasco (nº. 44). All seem to
Holala Ibiza (nº 73) Petit Asia (nº. 77)
Jardi de Xavier Benguerel
26-27. Street life.indd 6
10/20/10 1:41:12 PM
STREET LIFE 27
Camden (nº. 27)
Castelló Sabem de Música (nº. 7)
It might get loud keep watch over a street that has resisted the need to conform or change in order to accommodate the tourist hordes. The tattoo parlour LTW (nº. 29) epitomises the rebellious streak and individuality that is evident in many of the people who call Tallers home. Nowhere is that defiant eccentricity more keenly felt than in the window of Amor Sports (nº. 65), where Samurai swords sit proudly alongside fishing equipment. Tourists must be forgiven for thinking that ninja fishermen are a common sight in Barcelona. If a tad more class or sophistication is required, Boadas (nº. 1) provides it by the cocktail glass. Many a famous elbow has propped up their bar over the years from George Orwell to Kevin Costner. Set up in 1933 by Cuban Miguel Boadas, this is one of the oldest cocktail bars in Barcelona and the first to serve a Mojito. Miguel Boadas made a name for himself in a bar called Canaletas on La Rambla (now Burger King) before moving into his own place on Tallers and taking the customers with him. Whilst sipping on your Tom Collins, look out for Miguel’s daughter, Maria Dolores, who still occassionally holds court behind the bar and tells tales about the
Rock and roll is simply unavoidable on Tallers; the street is practically bursting at the seams with record and guitar shops, making it the perfect place to come if you want to make some noise. Starting at the top, El Setanta Nou (nº. 79) price everything under €10, Revolver (nº. 11 and nº. 13) specialise in rock and alternative while Discos Impacto (nº. 61) and Castelló sabem de música (nº. 7) both sell concert tickets. Castelló is a warren of listening pleasures with everything from Catalan indie to flamenco and ska. Their ever-growing, ever more popular vinyl selection is well worth a rummage. Alternatively, squeeze yourself into teeny-tiny Sound Track (nº. 45) that has room for all of about four customers. Tired of listening to music and want to make your own? The Guitar Shop Barcelona (nº. 27, 46 and 61) is a good place to start, or take your queries to Juan Carlos Sánchez at L’art Guinardó (nº. 67). He’s been listening to beginners attempt to play ‘Stairway to Heaven’ in the store for the past ten years and counts many a local act among his regular clientele. Finally, embrace your inner metalhead at Valhalla (nº. 68). Open every night, it’s a haven for nocturnal heavy metal fans and goths who like a beer and the odd game of table football.
days when Miró used to bunk off school to drink there.
L’art Guinardó (nº. 67)
El Filete Ruso Nº. 95
El Setana Nou (nº. 79)
26-27. Street life.indd 7
10/20/10 1:41:19 PM
main pages - Nov 10 .indd 7
10/20/10 2:50:58 PM
On INTERPOL P. 31 ÀNGELS MARGARIT P. 32 VAMPIRE WEEKEND P. 33 WORLD PRESS P. 34
Cirque de Soleil - Varekai
29 Cover copy Cirque du soleil2.indd 1
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30
|M
30 ON
This month
6th British choreographer David Dawson drags the romantic ballet Giselle kicking and screaming into the 21st Century at the Liceu this month. Expect love, death, drama but few tutus. Semperoper Ballett: Giselle November 6th to 15th Gran Teatre del Liceu www.liceubarcelona.cat
This year’s Barcelona International Comedy Festival isn’t just for the English speakers—there are shows in Swedish, Dutch, German and Italian too. Featuring Andrew Maxwell (pictured) and Seann Walsh (both tipped for big things), look too for Sweden’s Lasse Nilsen and Sanjay Shihora’s ‘Comeditation in German. Barcelona International Comedy Festival November 19th to 28th Various venues www.barcelonacomedyfestival.com
26th The Voll-Damm 42nd Festival Internacional de Jazz de Barcelona continues apace this month with concerts across the city. Highlights include sax giant, Sonny Rollins, who’s in town on November 3rd, as part of his 80th Birthday Tour; Micah P. Hinson who plays the Palau de la Música on the 12th and Jamie Cullum (pictured) who visits the same venue on the 26th. Voll-Damm Festival Internacional de Jazz de Barcelona Until December 2nd Various venues www.barcelonajazzfestival.com
27th Cirque du Soleil are back and this time they’re transforming their big top into a magical forest. Varekai promises to be full of fantastical creatures - many of whom are no doubt pretty nifty with a set of juggling balls or swinging from a trapeze. Try and persuade a loved one to treat you: tickets cost anything from €35 to a scary €195. Cirque du Soleil: Varekai November 5th to December 5th White Big Top (next to the Fòrum) www.cirquedusoleil.com
30-33 LIVE.indd 30
5th
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celona e city. town cah P. Jamie
na
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M 31 ON 31
Live J
MGMT
who’s on Four Tet pick OUR
of GIGS IN november
Oceansize: BeCool, 4th
onathan Fire*Eater are quite possibly the best band you’ve never heard of. When they imploded in a ball of recriminations and unexplored potential in 1998, three of the band members skulked off to do their own thing: The Walkmen was the result. It’s been a long slog but The Walkmen are finally making people sit up and pay attention. New album Lisbon has the trademark plonky piano, crooning vocals and sparse percussion of old but there’s a new majesty and confidence here too, not to mention the odd trumpet. When they’re on form (usually when they’ve had plenty of help humping their piano into the venue), The Walkmen are explosive live. It’s rare to get the chance to see a band this good in such a small venue, so if you do one thing this month, buy a ticket for this gig. With the reviews they’ve been getting of late, you won’t get the chance to see them up this close and personal ever again.--NY
The Walkmen Sala BeCool November 11th
Danko Jones: Bikini, 4th The pick Zombies: OUR ofApolo, GIGS5th IN OCTOBER Front 242: Bikini, 6th LCD Soundsystem: Razzmatazz, 6th Scissor Sisters: Razzmatazz, 8th W.A.S.P: Razzmatazz, 10th Black Rebel Motorcycle Club: Apolo, 11th The Coral: Razzmatazz, 11th These New Puritans: City Hall, 12th The Drums: Razzmatazz, 13th Xavier Rudd: Apolo, 16th Primal Scream: Razzmatazz, 20th The Divine Comedy: Casino de l’Aliança, 23rd Alice Cooper, Sant Jordi Club, 23rd Shakira: Palau Sant Jordi, 24th Suede: Razzmatazz, 26th Monster Magnet (pictured): Razzmatazz, 30th
30-33 LIVE.indd 31
I
nterpol have often been dismissed as gloomy Joy Division copycats, but not by anyone who’s ever really listened to them. Their songs might start darkily enough but before you know it there’s a killer bassline and a sing-out-loud chorus and what you thought was a broody ballad has turned into a stomping indie dancefloor anthem. The dapper New Yorkers have played Barcelona before but never with this line-up. Much to the disappointment of fans, the band’s bassist, co-songwriter and poster boy, Carlos Dengler, left the band earlier this year. Hard though it is to imagine their live show without his lugubrious frame, impeccable tailoring and low-slung bass, if the new self-titled album is anything to go by, Interpol give the impression they still have plenty of tricks up their sleeves.--NY
Interpol
Sant Jordi Club November 14th
10/20/10 2:15:33 PM
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ngels Margarit is a dancer’s dancer. With an extraordinary eye for choreography, Margarit paints pictures on the stage like an old master flicking a brush over a canvas. She makes such effective visual use of space and composition that it’s hard for her contemporaries not to admire—and perhaps envy just a little—the body of work she’s produced. This month, Mercat de les Flors are marking the 25th birthday of Mudances (Margarit’s Barcelona-based company) with a special residency which includes the staging of five of her most important pieces, along with talks, a workshop, a concert and several films. Kolbebasar (5th-7th) was first performed in 1988 and if Samuel Beckett had been a choreographer, he’d probably have produced something like this. A piece for seven dancers, it’s poetic, quirky, repetitive and quite brilliant: a perfect introduction to her work. Her award-winning solo Corol.la (11th–13th) comes next, a riot of colour and movement that has toured the globe since its premiere in 1992. The collabo-
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large chunk of this month sees two Barcelona film festivals running back-to-back. First is the 15th edition of the African Film Festival. Given Africa’s cultural, historic, linguistic and topographic mix, any (film) festival dedicated to Africa has to be highly selective regarding its content—and so it is here. This year, the range of countries represented is small and there’s a sad lack of female film-makers. However, there are screenings of both recent works (such as 2009’s Nothing But the Truth from South African film-maker John Kani) and productions from directors included in past editions such as Ivorian Henri Duparc. Homage is paid to the late Senegalese directors Ousmane Sembène, Mahama Johnson Traoré and Samba Félix Ndiaye and there’ll be two film premieres: Taxiphone by Algerian director Mohammed Soudani and Les gars du bled from Moroccan film-maker Mohamed Ismail. Barcelona’s Independent Film Festival, L’Alternativa, also has a difficult remit, as it tries to offer audiences ‘alternative’ films. While tedious Hollywood sequels and remakes are not in short supply in Barcelona cinemas, the city also has its fair share of arthouse venues, making the task of finding an alternative to the alternative that bit more challenging. Still, their mission to highlight “other views and other voices that are never present in commercial cinema” is to be applauded. This year’s key director is Frenchman Raymond Depardon,
rative Cartografies is being performed in two parts on the 12th (free entrance) and the 14th, followed by perhaps her most introspective work Solo por placer (17th & 18th). In this individual piece, she looks at the pleasure of dance and the pain of creation and although she’s a beautiful dancer, it’s not her finest work, perhaps because she’s at her best when she’s working with multiple energies and bodies to create striking visual pictures. Finally Larandland (20th and 21st) is an abstract piece in three parts that takes the city as its theme. Best of all, tickets are a mere €10 each with big discounts for groups and last-minute buys, meaning there’s plenty for dance fans to smile about this month.--NY
25 Anys Àngels Margarit/Cia. Mudances Mercat de les Flors 5th-21st November
a documentary-maker whose work takes a peek behind the doors of modern France to look at its justice system, agricultural workers and the sole psychiatric hospital with a 24-hour emergency department. Elsewhere, L’Alternativa offers: a masterclass by Barcelona cinematographer Lluís Miñarro (7th); a new children’s strand called ‘Pequeños Experimentos’ (where all the films are presented by a host who will talk to the young audience about the themes covered) and ‘Pantalla Hall’, a non-stop showing of recent experimental films.--HP
15a Mostra de Cinema Africà de Barcelona Cines Méliès (Villarroel 102), November 5th to 11th, www.ullanonim.org €5 per session; €20 for five tickets (all films shown in original version with Castilian or Catalan subtitles)
L’Alternativa: 17è Festival de Cine Independiente de Barcelona Various venues, November 12th to 20th http://alternativa.cccb.org
For more live events, visit our website: www.barcelona-metropolitan.com
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evoking childhood memories and lost innocence, it was hailed as the soun-
time singer with Screaming Trees and vocalist of Queens of the Stone Age are
dtrack to a generation. Follow-up Neon Bible was another critical and com-
practically a modern day reincarnation of Johnny Cash and June Carter. Or Mazzy
mercial smash, spawning the hits ‘No Cars Go’ and ‘Rebellion (Lies)’. Known
Star draped over Tom Waits’ piano. Frankly they were made for each other. His deep,
for their exuberant live performances, Arcade Fire played their first Spanish
dirty vocals match her breathy whispers perfectly, especially when backed up with
gig in Barcelona at 2005’s Primavera Sound. Now five years on, they return
twangy steel guitars, lush strings, organ and lazy percussion. If their latest studio
to the city to present The Suburbs, an album that mixes rock, folk and just
offering Hawk—a joyous blend of country and folk with a grizzly beauty and the
a hint of Eighties electro-pop. The lyrics deal with life in the urban sprawl
beast twist—doesn’t make you want to head west, nothing will.--NY
and a certain nostalgia for a home that isn’t the way you remembered it. For
ome songs make you want to buy a rusty old campervan and drive off into the sunset to knit your own jumpers by a campfire: Isobel Campbell and Mark Lanegan’s songs do that.
She, a pale, twee princess and once the belle of Belle & Sebastian and he, one-
ed by husband and wife duo Win Butler and Régine Chassagne, Canadian seven-piece Arcade Fire burst onto the indie scene in 2004 with the acclaimed Funeral. With its Baroque strings and lyrics
everyone who knows how that feels, this is a gig not to be missed.--LM
Isobel Campbell & Mark Lanegan
Arcade Fire
Apolo November 30th
Palau Sant Jordi November 21st
T
C
Method Man
Vampire Weekend
he rap collective Wu-Tang Clan are often credited with changing the face of hip hop. But the freedom the collective gave to members to branch out and do their own projects might have been their ultimate downfall. Members, Method Man, RZA, GZA (The Genius), Raekwon and Ol’ Dirty Bastard (now deceased) were all big personalities to say the least and actively pursued solo careers from the get go. Method Man was the first out of the blocks when it came to going it on his own. Now, after many a solo album, faltering comebacks with Wu-Tang and a growing presence on screen, Method Man is back on stage with long time cohort Redman. Not including the duo’s best forgotten movie outing How High, the pair have been collaborating together since 2007. But with the evident turn to a more bouncy, happy rapping (see Dizzee Rascal, Tinie Tempah et al) it remains to be seen whether the old guard of rap still remain in favour.--KM
Razzmatazz November 14th
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lose your eyes and go to your happy place. Imagine beats and wayward riffs taking away your troubles, feel your toes dance and indulge in some frantic air-drumming. Feels good doesn’t it? You’ve just had a taste of Vampire Weekend. These baby-faced New Yorkers were voted ‘The Year’s Best New Band’ in 2008 by Spin magazine and their latest album Contra got them their first number one in the US. Their single ‘Jonathan Low’ may have appeared in The Twilight Saga: Eclipse but refreshingly, Vampire Weekend are not a group who take themselves too seriously. See their video for ‘Holiday’ if you don’t believe us. If you haven’t jumped around frantically on a dancefloor to the single ‘A-Punk’ then we hope at least you’ve done it justice on ‘Guitar Hero 5’. Forget eating a doughnut without licking your lips; sink your teeth into Vampire Weekend live and try not to sing along. We dare you.--DC
Razzmatazz November 13th
10/20/10 2:15:38 PM
34 ON
Arts Otho Lloyd: Anys trenta / Años trenta. MNAC © Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya. MNAC. Foto: Calveras / Mèrida/ Sagristà
I
n 1945, the Labour party famously asked the United Kingdom to face the future. They did and a sea change began. Labour’s unlikely victory over Winston Churchill’s Conservative party represented a major shift in public confidence. Voters, still quaking from World War Two, chose social reform over the business-as-usual approach of Churchill. Labour promised employment, housing, national healthcare and a welfare state and in the ensuing decades, their policies revived the economy and led to a more open society. Mods, swingers, the Beatles and the Rolling Stones all owe tribute to their parents’ risky future facing. No less significantly, post-war visual artists in Britain also made their mark, as seen in Fundació Joan Miró’s Let Us Face the Future which opens later this month. An exhibition of British art from 1945 to 1968, the curators worked with the British Council to assemble a mix of styles that represents the evolution of expression which began with the 1945 Labour win. At its core, Let Us Face the Future, reflects a national creative subconscious, ostensibly reacting to a time of great change in the UK. Though crossovers in style or content may unify some of the work, the contrasts and contradictions between the artists ought to provoke. Here, there is not one but several ways of seeing and feeling on display. Some of the work is clearly a reaction to the war—Francis Bacon’s grotesque and emotionally raw paintings evoke a glum post-war sentiment. Many are the abstract or Constructivist artists (Peter Lanyon, Roger Hilton, Victor Pasmore) who valued totality over details and focused on modeling basic elements of form, a bit of a holdover from the pre-war. Others, like figurative painter Lucien Freud or photographer Tony Ray-Jones, worked on literal interpretations of reality: while Pop artists, like Eduardo Paolazzi and Richard Hamilton appropriated bits and pieces from popular culture. Although there’s little that unifies the artists here, this exhibition provokes the viewer into reflection. It’s a reversal if you will of that Labour plea, asking us to look to the past to see the future.--SB Let Us Face The Future Fundació Joan Miró November 27th until February 20th, 2011
T
o say an image speaks a thousand words is perhaps a truism and nowhere more so than in the world of photojournalism. Where words can’t express a story, through censorship or otherwise, a captured photo of a newsworthy event can make a significant impact. The locations featured in the ‘News’ divisions of the World Press Photo exhibition are rarely surprising, more often than not they’re from the world’s worst trouble spots. One thing that does always catch you out is the exceptional level of photography. Here are the world’s best photographers and this is their work on the wall. The ‘General News’ and ‘Spot News’ winners of the 2010 competition, show images snatched from Gaza, Somalia, Kabul, Tijuana and Tehran. They show a world at conflict and of people in trouble. They show protest, death, violent crime and mass poverty; going to see this exhibition is never easy but always greatly rewarding. It’s a bleak reminder of the world and its problems and the issues that confront people on a daily basis. The overall ‘World Press Photo of the Year’ winner is Italian photographer Pietro Masturzo, whose shot shows women on a Tehranian nighttime rooftop shouting protest over the contested presidential elections in Iran. It does what photojournalism should; convey the personal side of a news story and give the conflict a very human context. There is relief though and it comes in the form of the ‘Sports’, ‘Arts and Entertainment’ and ‘Nature’ sections. Less instantly emotive perhaps but no less arresting these categories include the visually stunning work of Tommaso Ausili, who reveals the insides of an Umbrian slaughterhouse and manages to create beauty out of carnage. In the portrait section the Dutch photographer Annie van Gemert’s photo story (pictured) is a subtle look at androgynous children. Her delicate portraits look to challenge stereotypes of gender definition. This exhibition is about more than just photography, it’s about the world we live in. You will leave thankful that you have the luck and good fortune to observe these events from afar and not as an eyewitness on ground level.--KM World Press Photo CCCB November 4th until December 8th
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Quick pic(k)s some of the Art shows on now in barcelona
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1. Esteu a punt per a la televisió? MACBA November 5th to April 25th www.macba.cat
3. Anna Maria Maiolino Fundació Antoni Tàpies Until January 16th www.fundaciotapies.org
2. Rutes d’Aràbia CaixaForum November 12th to February 27th www.obrasocial.lacaixa.es
4. EL D EFECTE BARROC CCCB November 9th to February 27th www.cccb.org
Find FULL DETAILS OF current exhibitions on our website WWW.barcelona-metropolitan.com
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Clandestine cooking A gimmick restaurant yes, but one which doesn’t let the food take second place
By Tara Stevens. Photo by Patricia Esteve. Tintorería Dontell Aribau 55 Tel. 93 452 0720 www.tintoeriadontell.com Open Mon-Fri 8.30pm-2am Sat and Sun until 2.30am Approx 50 for three courses plus wine
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ontell. A play on the words: “Don’t tell” in keeping with the Tintorería’s cunning disguise as a dry cleaners, when in fact it’s a restaurant. So far so clandestine except that by now it’s about the worst kept secret in town. Tap it into Google and up come numerous reviews (and photos), mainly good, so that now the word is largely: been to that dry cleaner restaurant yet? I booked for a Friday night. We arrived at a place that did indeed seem like the real deal, in dry cleaner terms that is. There were jackets and shirts, ticketed and hanging on a rail. A large tumble-dryer tucked into a corner. Even the smell of starch and detergent hanging in the air. “Do you have a reservation,” asked the girl at the till, clad in a dark, tailored suit. “Yes, it’s Tara,” say I. “Nobody of that name here she remarks. “Could I see,” I say, having got used to the problems of Tara over the years. “That’ll be it: Lana.” “OK then,” she says rather moodily, here’s the code, you tap it in over there.” Once through the secret doorway we were whisked through to a sultry dining room with a huge open-plan kitchen, framed by plateglass windows etched with violet swirls, giant overhead bulbs (dimly lit) and comfortable, silvery banquets that seemed to glow discreetly in the dark. Wow, we thought, actually this isn’t half bad. 20 minutes later the place was rammed, including a table behind us that came with three kids aged under five who were made extremely welcome. Elsewhere were couples, grown-up kids and their parents; a mix of uptowners, downtowners and possibly the odd tourist, though I suspect it’s not quite that discovered yet. The menu changes every two months and is split into aperitifs, cold starters, warm starters, mains and deserts. Most of them are available in half portions. We kicked off with an avocado langoustine salad with wild herbs served ‘martini style’. “Do you think that means it’s served in a martini glass?” I asked my friend. “Absolutely” she re-
plied, and of course was completely right. It was tasty enough. My only criticism was a need to slow the pace of things for greedy tables like ours; we struggled to keep up. Next then a slab of spiced bread, topped with not quite enough duck liver (the spices in the bread overpowered it) and slivers of green apple, which were nevertheless a welcome and imaginative aside to the ubiquitous mi-cuit de foie. Better yet was a dish of sweet and buttery seared scallops served with a dollop of wild almond puree. An exceptional dish using an inspired combination of ingredients that really worked. The bogavante (lobster) and lamb sweetbreads in ravioli were a bit of a dud comprising five tubes of empty canelone, an admittedly brilliant reduction of sweetbread and lobster juice, three shrivelled glands and a small prawn. “Er, waiter”, we say, “where’s the lobster?” “Oh, we don’t we have any of that today”, he says brightly. Then hopefully, “but we’ve given you a prawn, I can take it away if you want?” Personally I saw little point in eating it, and truth be told, we’d rather over-ordered so it worked out for the best. Our main courses consisted of turbot—a wonderful fish, that we don’t see enough of in these parts—with a tender melange of the season’s new wild mushrooms and a simple roasted filet of wild sea bass. A beautifully silky papada (the slow-cooked chin of an Iberian pig) and the most delectably smoky, tender and juicy hunk of ox meat topped with a dollop of kalamata tapenade. By the time desert was proffered we couldn’t eat another morsel so I can’t comment on that. The bill came to €126 for two, but given the excessive feed we’d had and the excellent bottle of wine (Alvaro Palacios’ Les Terrasses) I don’t think it was so outrageous. More to the point, I can say with my hand on my heart, that this is one little secret I won’t be shy of sharing.
READ THE FOOD AND DRINK BLOG ON OUR WEBSITE FOR THE LATEST GOURMET NEWS AND REVIEWS: WWW.BARCELONA-METROPOLITAN.COM
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GASTRONOMY 37
RECIPE Chickpea and morcilla salad
By Tara Stevens Nothing says autumn to me more than a bowl of chickpeas, sweet pinenuts and silky morcilla served as a warm salad for lunch. Thanks to Kate Preston at Casa Delfin (Passeig del Born 36. Born, Tel. 93 319 5088) home to some of the bestvalue Catalan cooking in town for this dish. Kate recommends having this for brunch or supper with a poached egg over the top and lots of crusty bread on the side. It also goes exceptionally well with oven-baked salt cod loin. (Serves four as a side or two as a main) • 500g chickpeas, cooked (if you used jarred, rinse well) • 2 Figueres onion, finely chopped • 4 tbsp olive oil • 4 cloves garlic, crushed • 4 tbsp raisins (soaked for 30 mins in 2 tbsp brandy) • 4 tbsp pine nuts • 100g morcilla (or butifarra negra), crumbled • 1 tsp smoked pimentón • 1 tsp fennel or anis seeds • Sea salt & freshly ground pepper • 3 slices stale white bread, crusts removed • 3 tbsp fresh parsley, roughly chopped
To make the croutons Preheat an oven to 180ºC. Place 3-4 slices of white bread (crusts removed) on a baking tray. Drizzle over with 2 tbsp olive oil that has been infused with a clove of crushed garlic. Toss well and bake for 20-25 minutes or until golden and crunchy. Remove from the oven, cut into 1cm cubes and set aside to cool. To make the salad Sauté the onions, garlic, fennel seeds, pinenuts, and raisinsbrandy juice in 2 tbsp olive oil until the onion starts to melt and turn translucent. Add the crumbled morcilla, chickpeas and pimentón and sauté for another five minutes or so to let the flavours come together. Scatter with parsley and the croutons before serving.
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38 GASTRONOMY
Lunch with...
Tara Stevens has a lunch date with some of the city’s most dedicated foodies, this month: Lillian Ortega, creator of www.comerconlila.com
Photo by Patricia Esteve
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t wasn’t until I had lunch at Wushu with Lillian Ortega, that I realised they make the greatest iced green tea; an invigorating blend of green tea over ice with lots of lemon and mint leaves. Usually I’d have a glass
of wine or beer, but the tea was something Lila was big on. “Actually I hate green tea,” she grinned. “But I know it’s really good for you and this isn’t really like green tea at all.” I’d wanted to meet Lila since I first discovered her blog, www.comerconlila.com, about a year ago. We’ve got the same tastes Lila and I, and I was curious about her take on the local dining scene. Born in Colombia, she’s been in Spain for 13 years, studied creative writing in Madrid and wrote her first review there, anonymously, about Bazaar, in the trendy Chueca district. Gradually she discovered her passion. “Being in restaurants for me was like a window into life. It was culture”. In my opinion, comerconlila.com is now one of the best and most reliable restaurant blogs covering Madrid and Barcelona. She’d chosen Wushu as our lunch destination because, “I like food that is healthy, clean, balanced and light. I’m not so into ‘hot’, but I like fresh herbs, bright aromas, intense flavours. I’ve been sick recently, and places like Wushu manage to satisfy taste buds that are busted, while nurturing a body that needs some serious TLC.” Lila, I’m happy to say, is now the picture of brightness. A true, shining light. “You order,” I say. “I’ll have what you’re having.” Over plump Vietnamese-style vegetarian rollitos, a moderately spicy, green papaya salad, Pad See Ew (vermicelli noodles tossed with fresh shitake mushrooms, bok choy and ginger) and a creamy Matsaman curry with aubergines and prawns that seems to seep vitamins into our veins, I ask what she really
“
thinks about the Barcelona restaurant scene. “I think everything got very Americanised there for a while,” she muses. “Lots of chains and a real danger of the landscape becoming over homogenised. We were also seeing a lot of what I’d call ‘easy cuisine’: foie, scallops, that kind of thing. Now I think we’re seeing a return to the classics and the use of more traditional ingredients. Chefs are having to work harder to come up with something interesting and I think that’s a good thing.” I couldn’t agree with her more. Let’s hope the city is listening.
Wushu Avenida Marqués de l’Argentera 1 bis Tel. 93 310 7313 www.wushu-restaurant.com Tue-Sat 1pm-4.45pm, 8pm-11.45pm, Sun 2pm-4.45pm, Mon closed
Lila’s top tip: “Can Solé can be a little oppressive and a little loud, but it’s a true fisherman’s house in the heart of Barceloneta and you can’t beat their arroz caldoso de bogavante.” San Carles 4, Tel. 93 221 5012 www.cansole.cat
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Gourmet dining in Gràcia It may not have been open long but the word is already out about Gut in the bohemian area of Gràcia. The reason? Firstly there’s the food. Using only the finest quality ingredients, the kitchen specialises in Mediterranean cuisine with an international twist. From prawn and mango curry to beef entrecote served with fluffy mash and leeks braised in honey and soy sauce, there’s an eclectic array of dishes on the menu, including
several options cooked with
love for vegetarians. New for the autumn are deliciously nutty quinoa and tofu hamburgers and Indonesian tamales. Sweettoothed pudding lovers should take note too as special attention is paid to the home-made desserts, so much so that the chocolate and mascarpone pie already has its own fan club. Secondly, there’s Gut’s attention to detail and the friendly, respectful service. And then there’s the restaurant itself. The clean, white decor and sunny dining room make it the ideal place to pop by for breakfast, lunch or a cup of tea and a cake. At night, the lights do down, while at weekends, the atmosphere changes with a surprising combination of lighting scenarios and great music. It’s the perfect place to have a drink and enjoy the night in good company. Try it for yourself and find out why everyone is talking about Gut.
C/Perill,13 t:93 186 6360 restaurantgut@gmail.com
main pages - Nov 10 .indd 4
10/19/10 1:51:17 PM
Food&Drink
Bar Sand Bar4EIXAMPLE E Looking for somewhere new to watch the match or hear good music? Try the Sandbar.
4advertisers’ directory
Owned by a British couple, the sports and music bar opened in June 2010. Serving delicious Thai and European cuisine they have plans to hold comedy, jazz and live music nights. Happy Hour 5pm-7pm.
NEFW &D
Join them on facebook, www.facebook. com/sandbarbcn and stay in touch with their website: www.sandbarbcn.com
IN
Under 20 / 20-30 / 30-40 / Over 40 / RV Reservation Advised /4new restaurant in food & drink
C/Paris, 38 | Entença-Hospital Clinic Tel. 934 190 512 | www.sandbarbcn.com Open every day 12pm-3am
Bagels BE MY BAGEL 4GRÀCIA Do you dream of great bagels? Then Be My Bagel is the right place for you: authentic Bagels from Barcelona just as you love them. They have an extensive range of bagels and cakes, from the more classic choices such as poppy and multigrain to delicious and innovative chocolate, almond and coconut bagels - you´ll not come away disappointed.
C/Planeta 37 (Pl. del Sol) I Fontana Tel. 93 518 7151 I bemybagel@gmail.com Tue-Sun 10am-10pm
Bar - Live Music 7 Sins Bar and Lounge4EIXAMPLE e New food menu with an even bigger selection of American-style burgers, including chicken fillet and vegetarian options. Tasty tapas accompanied by one of our 7 beers on draught or 7 deadly cocktails for the ladies…? Entertainment every weekend in the basement club bar where you will find local & international DJs as well as live music acts. A great pre-club venue to get your weekend started. Big screen sports events over 2 floors. All Champions League games. Join them on Facebook “7 Sins Barcelona” to receive info on weekly events. C/Muntaner 7 | Universitat | Tel. 93 453 6445 www.7sinsbar.com | Mon-Fri 11am-3am, Sat-Sun 6pm-3am | RV
Located in Port Olympic, Dreams is the perfect place to unwind and relax. From 7pm to 11pm enjoy the luxurious outdoor covered lounge, where you can enjoy bottle service with brands such as Grey Goose Vodka as well as all your favourite cocktails, beers and hookah pipes. If you’re a sports fan, make use of their wide-screen TV, showing European football and all the action from the NFL and the NBA. From 11pm join the go-go dancers as they perform to the best house, R’n’B and Latino music.
Moll de Mestral 6-7, Port Olimpic I
L4 Ciutadella-Vila Olímpica
Margarita Blue 4BARRI GÒTIC
Michaels tavern 4Sant andreu
Located in the heart of old Barcelona, Margarita Blue has become a classic in the city’s bar scene. Delight in the dishes from the ‘‘Mexiterranean” kitchen, such as a variety of tacos, amazing guacamole, fresh carpaccio and tomates verdes fritos or take pleasure in a drink or cocktail whilst appreciating new music and spectacular shows that alternate between theatre and performance art. Come and enjoy the Barcelona-Metropolitan networking event and meet new people. Tuesday 16th November from 7:30pm with live music from Laia Porta and friends at 9.00pm.
Located off the Paseo de Fabra i Puig, this traditional pub offers a huge selection of imported bottle and draft beers from all over the world, including Hoegaarden, Franziskaner, Leffe and Pilsner Urquell.
C/Josep Anselm Clave 6 | Drassanes Tel. 93 412 5489 | www.margaritablue.com | Mon-Fri 1.30pm-4pm, 8pm-2.30am, Sat-Sun 6pm-2.30am | RV
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Dream4port olimpic
Whether you are visiting the area or live in the neighbourhood, this bar offers a warm atmosphere. They have a large section of tapas, sandwiches and burgers. They also offer a special menu which includes drinks.
NEFW &D IN
Concepcion Arenal, 213 | Tel. 93 312 0358
Fabra I Puig
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FOOD & DRINK 41 Catalan Nit Borbo4barceloneta
GRAN PARIS 4EIXAMPLE E
A fantastic bar located on Passeig de Borbó heading down towards the beach with lots of comfortable seating inside ideal for groups of friends. You can also relax with your favourite cocktails on the terrace which has great views of Port Vell.
Discover the serene setting of Restaurant Gran Paris where the chefs invite you to sample luxurious Catalan cuisine. From the traditional, simple dish of baclao (Catalan cod) to the more complex, there is more than enough choice to satisfy your taste buds for the Mediterranean. The three separate rooms allow for a comfortable ambience suitable both for lavish meetings or family gatherings. Open 7 days a week, 365 days a year.
Passeig de Borbó, 51 I
Barceloneta
Be cool4BaRRi Gòtic BeCool offers a great mix of Electronic, Indie & Rock music from Thursday to Saturday with a regular line up of live concerts by local & international artists. Main Room: Electro & Techno. Sala Redrum: Indie Electro Rock.
Joan Llongueras, 5 I
C/ Muntaner 182 I 08036 Barcelona Hospital Clínic, FGC Provença Tel. 93 363 5252 / 93 363 5253 I Fax. 93 321 3479 restaurant@granparis.com I www.granparis.com Every day 1pm- 3.30pm and 8.30pm-11.30pm
L5 Hospital clinic I Tel. 93 362 0413
Hungarian Delicatessen cara bela4barceloneta Cara Bela has one of the sunniest terraces on Port Vell with fantastic views of the Barcelona head sculpture by Roy Lichtenstein. They offer great sandwiches and tapas as well as freshly squeezed fruit juices and smoothies.
Pas de Soto Muralla, 3 I
Barceloneta I Tel. 697 152 215 I Mon-Sun 10am -2am
Food&Drink to advertise in this section, please call 93 4514486 or email ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com Barraval 4Raval Located in the heart of the Raval quarter, Barraval offers great Mediterranean and Catalan cuisine alongside a trendy atmosphere and great cocktails. Taste our new ‘Tapas and Platillos’ menu. You can also stop at the bar for a great cocktail and listen to soul, jazz, Latin and R&B music played by resident DJs. Private rooms are available for groups, parties and special events. Every Wednesday we have ‘After Office’ - enjoy a special complimentary chef’s dish when ordering a drink. Weekend Lunch Special: Paella Menu for 15. C/Hospital, 104 (Rambla del Raval) Liceu / Sant Antoni | Tel. 93 329 82 77 609 221 400 | Wed-Sat 7.30pm-2.30am, Sat-Sun open at 1pm for lunch | RV
Paprika Gourmet, Barcelona’s first Hungarian delicatessen is a treasury of culinary experiences, the shop window a quintessence of Hungarian cuisine. It is conveniently located a block away from the Sagrada Familia. It offers a wide range of salamis, cheeses, jams, honeys and chocolates all in a warm, welcoming environment. In the morning you can have an appetising breakfast with coffee and during the day you can enjoy the delicious “tapas a la húngara” with a glass of wine. Be our guest and taste the world of Paprika Gourmet!
C/Lepant 311 | Sagrada Familia | Tel. 93 433 5709 | www.paprikagourmet.com Mon-Sat 7am-9pm Closed Sun
French – Catalan
Café – Ice Cream Shop ART I SA4BARRI GÒTIC
PETIT PARIS 4EIXAMPLE E
Natural and organic delicatessen, café and ice cream shop.
Lose yourself in Paris in the heart of Barcelona. Petit Paris offers a romantic setting like a black and white movie. This restaurant offers a unique twist with its menu, which combines both French and Catalan cuisine. The house specialities are foie gras, langoustines served with espardenyes and potatoes and crêpes suzette. Open 7 days a week, 365 days a year.
• Fantastic selection of the most typical Catalan products, made in the most traditional and natural way. • Perfect as a treat for yourself, or a gift for a loved one. • Choose from a selection of different crêpes, sandwiches, cakes and natural ice cream for a truly original experience.
C/Colom 2 (Plaça Real) | Liceu | Tel. 93 186 3623 www.artisa.es | Every day 10am-10pm
Food & drink_Nov10 .indd 45
paprika gourmet4Eixample d
C/ París196 | Diagonal, FGC Provença Tel. 93 218 2678 Every day 1pm- 3.30pm and 8.30pm-11.30pm
10/20/10 3:16:23 PM
42 FOOD & DRINK International
Indian - Hindu MOTI MAHAL4RAVAL
GUT4Gràcia
Conveniently located between the Rambla de Raval and Paral·lel, Moti Mahal offers an extensive menu of Indian cuisine, including madras and tika dishes, sheek kebabs, traditional soups breads and biryanis. A large variety of vegetarian dishes are also available. House specialities are the clay oven-cooked tandoori dishes and the tofu paneer pakora. Menu of the day is on offer Mon-Fri for 9.25.
Firstly there’s the food. Using only the finest quality ingredients, the kitchen specialises in Mediterranean cuisine with an international twist and plenty of options for vegetarians. Try their quinoa and tofu burgers or a sinful home-made dessert. Secondly, there’s Gut’s attention to detail and the friendly, respectful service. It’s the perfect place to have a drink and enjoy the night in good company. Try it for yourself and find out why everyone is talking about Gut.
C/Sant Pau 103 | Paral.lel | Tel. 93 329 3252 | www.motimahalbcn.com Every day 12pm-4pm, 8pm-12am | Closed Tues Lunch | RV
Govinda (VEGETARIAN) 4BARRI GÒTIC A restaurant veteran for 24 years, Govinda specialises in vegetarian Indian cuisine. The international menu features talis, a salad bar, natural juices, lassis, pizzas and crêpes. It offers a veganfriendly, non-alcoholic and authentically decorated environment with lunch and weekend menus.
NEFW &D IN
C/Perill, 13 I Diagonal Tel. 93 186 6360 I restaurantgut@gmail.com
Pl. Villa de Madrid 4-5 | Catalunya | Tel. 93 318 7729 www.amalteaygovinda.com | Tue-Sat 1pm-4pm, 8.30pm-12am, Sun-Mon 1pm-4pm
veg world4GRÀCIA Discover a world of sensations in a relaxed and homely atmosphere. Try vegetarian delicacies from all over the world such as delicious bread home-made in a Tandoori oven and south Indian dishes like MASALA DOSA and IDLY. Daily continental and Indian menus, 9.50 inc. Free soup and salad buffet.
Hard Rock CafE4CIUTAT VELLA C/Bruniquer 26 | Plaça Joanic Tel. 93 210 7056 | Tues-Sun 1pm-4pm, 8pm-11.30pm
Indian - Modern SHANTI4LES CORTS Shanti (which means peace in Sanskrit) have selected a rich and varied menu comprised of traditional dishes that offer an authentic Indian experience to even the most discerning palettes. Using classic recipes their dishes, respect tradition but come with modern presentation. Try their tasting menu for only 24.90 (+IVA).
Hard Rock Cafe Barcelona offers an inspired, creative ambience with incredible rock ‘n’ roll memorabilia on display. Come and taste authentic American food. Their barbecue entrées slow cooked in the cafe’s hardwood smokers are delicious. Visit the bar to try a premium cocktail and check out the live music and special events on offer. Don’t forget to stop at the Rock Shop for fine, classic, cotton T-shirts or a collectable Hard Rock pin.
Plaça Catalunya 21 | Catalunya | Tel. 93 270 2305 | www.hardrock.com/barcelona | Restaurant: SunThurs 11am-2am, Fri, Sat and hol eves 11am-3am | Rock Shop: Sun-Thurs 10am-1.30am, Fri, Sat and hol eves 10am-2am
Sushi Box4sants
C/Agustina Saragossa 3-5 (in front of CC L’Illa) Maria Cristina - Tram 1,2,3 L’Illa Tel. 93 252 3115 | www.shanti.es Mon-Sat 1pm-4pm, 8pm-11.45pm Closed Sun | RV
Indonesian - Thai BATIK4SAGRADA FAMILIA Close to the Sagrada Familia you will find a small and very special restaurant with authentic Indonesian, Malaysian, Thai and Singaporean cuisine. Enjoy one of the house recommendations “Satay” or “Nasi Goreng”. Menu del dia runs Monday-Friday for 9.50 and 11.50. Reservations are strongly recommended Fri and Sat nights.
C/Perill, 13 I Sagrada Familia I Tel. 93 231 6015 / 677 594 533 www.restaurantbatik.com I Mon-Sat 1pm -3.45pm, Tues-Sat 8.30pm-11.30pm Closed Sun and Mon Evening
Food & drink_Nov10 .indd 46
This great new sushi take-away has two locations in the city which offer free delivery for all orders over 25. They have a wide selection of Japanese cuisine including various vegetarian options. All food is freshly prepared to order in a beautiful artisan Japanese style. Impress your guests at home or in the office.
NEFW &D IN
C/Galileu, 246 I Les Corts I Tel. 93 116 2100 Tues 7.30pm-11pm I Wed-Sun 12.30pm-4pm and 7.30pm-11pm
10/20/10 3:16:30 PM
FOOD & DRINK 43 anDÚ4JAuME 1
thai thai4EIXAMPLE E Thai Thai restaurant invites you to taste and enjoy traditional Thai food with tropical ingredients from Thailand prepared by Thai chefs. They specialise in all kinds of Thai curries. Thai Thai has created a delicious tasting menu for only 24 and a fresh menu of the day is on offer for 9.50 during the week.
Andú offers an escape from Barcelona’s mayhem, without sacrificing the fun. The cool music and relaxed vibe draws a diverse and bohemian crowd making it a warm and spirited bar full of animated locals enjoying a great wine list and classic Spanish tapas, including fantastic Catalan cheeses and hams. C/ del Correo Viejo I Mon-Sun 6pm -2.30am
C/Diputació 91 | C/Princep Jordi, 6 | 8pm-12am | RV
Jaume 1 I Tel. 646 553 930
Mexican vinDa4JAuME 1 Vinda is a fantastic Mexican bar and restaurant that is famous for its amazing margaritas, daiquiris and mojitos. Located in the heart of the Gothic quarter, they offer an incredible selection of Mexican dishes and tapas that will put you in the mood for an unforgettable night out on the town. Ask the cocktail barman for recommendations!
Urgell | Tel. 620 938 059 | www.thaithai.es España | Tel. 663 126 398 Every day 1pm-4pm,
Food&Drink to advertise in this section, please call 93 4514486 or email ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com vegetarian aMaLtea4EIXAMPLE E Visit Amaltea vegetarian restaurant where tasty and healthy meals are served in a welcoming environment. Dishes include cereals, pulses and vegetables with home-made puddings. The cuisine is creatively international with care taken to ensure all ingredients are fresh and dishes are well balanced. Menu of the day 10.50, night and weekend menu 15.
C/ Regomir , 4 I Jaume 1 Tel. 93 319 8956 I Mon-Sun 6pm -2am Vindabar@gmail.com
nepalese annaPurna4EIXAMPLE E The name of a series of peaks in the Himalayas, Annapurna is a great place to enjoy Nepalese culinary delights. it serves tasty and aromatic dishes such as grilled meats cooked in a Nepalese tandoor oven as well as a variety of top quality vegetarian dishes. Try Nepal’s most famous dish, Dal-bhat, or drop in for their midday fixed lunch menu during the week for only 9.75.
C/Diputació 164 | Urgell | Tel. 93 454 8613 www.amalteaygovinda.com | Mon-Sat 1pm-4pm, Mon-Sat 8.30pm-11.30pm, Closed Sun
C/ Paris 161 I Hospital Clinic I Tel. 93 410 2947 www.annapurna-restaurant.com I Mon-Sat 12-4pm and 8pm-12am, Clsd Sun I RV
take-away
vietnamese PiM PaM Burger4BoRn Quality is of upmost importance, making it the best burger and frankfurter take-away in town. Special hamburgers, chicken burgers, bratwurst, frankfurters, home-made chips and stroganoff are also available and are all prepared on the premises.
C/Sabateret 4 I Jaume I Tel. 93 315 2093 burger@pimpamplats.com I www.pimpamplats.com Every day 1pm-12am
thai thai gracia4GRÀCIA Expect authentic ingredients all imported from Thailand and cooked by experienced Thai chefs. The Pad Thai and green and yellow curries have excellent subtle flavours. Simply delicious! The special tasting menu for 21 is a huge hit and allows you to try all the exotic dishes Thai Gracia has to offer. An affordable 11 menu del dia is available during the week. The warm hospitality and attention to detail to every dish at Thai Gracia will keep you coming back for more.
C/ Còrsega 381 | Metro Verdaguer / Girona Tel. 93 459 3591 | www.restaurante-thai-gracia.com Every day 1pm- 4pm 8pm-12am | RV
Food & drink_Nov10 .indd 47
BunBo vietnaM4BARRI GÒTIC Satisfy your craving for fresh, healthy Vietnamese food just steps away from the Gothic cathedral. Sit under the leafy trees of the quiet terrace or inside the restaurant which is entirely decorated with bright colourful pieces straight from Saigon. Start with delicious fresh summer rolls, crispy Asian pork lettuce cups, followed by traditional Pho or Bun noodle dishes. Accompany your meal with a fresh and exotic cocktail like the sakirinha (caipirinha made with sake). The menu of the day is an affordable 10 inside and 11 on the shady terrace. The kitchen is open non-stop all day.
C/Sagristans 3 |
Urquinaona | Tel. 93 301 1378 | www.bunbovietnam.com | 1pm-1am Every day
10/20/10 3:16:38 PM
Hairdressers
Marketplace 4 Services Directory To advertise in this section, call: 93 451 44 86 or email: ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com
Beauty Health & Wellbeing
Home Services
Education Services Business
Employment
Fashion
44-49 Nov.indd 44
Hairdressers Fashion Bodywork/Massage Dentists Doctors Veterinarian Pharmacy Chiropractors Psychologists / Psychotherapists HypnoBirthing Interior Design Plumbing Construction Real Estate & Accommodation Transport / Storage / Removals Rentals Language Schools Teacher Training Activities Translation Courses Piano Lessons Computers Television Services Tax Services Legal Practices Financial Coaching Financial Services Insurance Job Opportunities
Health & beauty
44 44 44-45 45 45 45 45 46 46-47 47 47 47 47 47-48 48 48 48-50 50 50 50 50 51 52 53 53 54 54 53-54 54-56
Bodywork / Massage
10/20/10 3:27:18 PM
Beauty | Health | Wellbeing 45 Dentists
English Dentist Dr. Nicholas Jones BDSLDSRCS Col. No 4090
FREE CHECK-UPS
General & Cosmetic dentistry Orthodontics Implants & Tooth whitening Smile makeovers Diagonal 281 (Sagrada familia L5/Monumental L2) Tel. 93 265 80 70 / Mob. 607 332 335 Open Monday to Saturday
nickteeth@hotmail.com www.nickteeth.com
Doctors
English Doctor Dr. Steven Joseph
Col nº 38291
BSc, MBBS, DRCOG, MRCGP, MRCPsych (London) Member of the Royal College of General Practioners U.K Member of the Royal College of Psychiatrists U.K
General Practice · Mental Health Extensive range of primary care services Access to all medical specialists/investigations
GOOG
L
medical centre
Veterinarian
Tel 93 330 2412 • Mobile 627 669 524 Email: googol@hotmail.es www.googolmedicalcentre.com
Gran Via Carles III nº-37-39 08028 Barcelona Les Corts
Pharmacy
Leila Catherine Onbargi, M.D.
OBSTETRICS and GYNECOLOGY
Centro Medico Teknon American Board Certified C/Vilana, 12 • consulta 161 Barcelona • Tel: 93 393 3161 Email: dr.onbargi@gmail.com www.teknon.es/consultorio/onbargi Fellow, American College OB/GYN Diplomate American Board of OB/GYN
ENGLISH • SPANISH • FRENCH
44-49 Nov.indd 45
10/20/10 3:27:21 PM
46 Beauty | Health | Wellbeing Chiropractors
Chinese Medicine
Psychologists / Psychotherapists
English Speaking and Trained Counsellor and Psychotherapist Help and Support with; • Lack of Energy or Low Self-Esteem • Improving Family and Personal Relationships • Feelings of Anger, Loneliness and Isolation, or Anxiety • Expat Issues and Adapting to, or Preparing for, Change • Achieving a Particular Goal or Finding a New Direction • Changing Unhelpful or Destructive Habits or Patterns of Behaviour
Free Initial 20 minute Introductory Meeting
Jonathan Lane Hooker
Psychotherapist, Counsellor, Coach and Guide Tel: 93 590 7654 • Mob: 639 579 646 • jonathan.hooker@yahoo.com
44-49 Nov.indd 46
10/20/10 3:27:23 PM
Psychologists / Psychotherapists
HypnoBirthing
:
Beauty | HealtH | WellBeing | Home ServiceS 47
Nick Cross Reg. psychologist no. 17158
(Col·legi Oficial de Psicòlegs de Catalunya)
Psychologist Psychotherapist Psychodynamically-oriented psychotherapy can provide effective treatment for: • anxiety & fears • depression • problems adjusting • relational difficulties • loss • trauma • neuroses
Tel. 644 193 825 e.mail ncross@copc.es
Interior Design
Plumbing GRAHAM COLLINS PROPERTY CONSULTANCY INTER IOR DESIGN & DECOR ATION Puzzled by the property market ? Need a renovator that speaks your language ? Want that designed look on an Ikea budget ?
C / CONSULAT DEL MAR 35, 3er BARCELONA t: 0034 678 75 75 11 e: grahamcollins@talk21.com
Construction
44-49 Nov.indd 47
Real Estate & Accommodation
10/20/10 3:27:30 PM
48 Home Services Real Estate & Accommodation
Rentals
Transport / Storage / Removals
Language Schools
44-49 Nov.indd 48
10/20/10 3:27:32 PM
Home ServiceS 49 Language Schools
44-49 Nov.indd 49
10/20/10 3:27:34 PM
50 Education Language Schools
Teacher Training
Activities
Piano Lessons
50-55 Nov.indd 50
10/21/10 12:29:04 PM
Education Computers
| Services 51
Television Services
50-55 Nov.indd 51
10/21/10 12:29:20 PM
52 Services
| Business
Television Services
Spain accounting Sept 2010.pdf
19/8/10
17:52:03
Tax Services
Legal Practices
50-55 Nov.indd 52
10/21/10 12:29:23 PM
Business 53 Legal Practices
Insurance
50-55 Nov.indd 53
10/21/10 12:29:25 PM
54 Business
| Employment
Insurance
Financial Coaching
Financial Services
50-55 Nov.indd 54
Job Opportunities
10/21/10 12:29:28 PM
Employment 55 Job Opportunities
50-55 Nov.indd 55
10/21/10 12:29:30 PM
56 Employment Job Opportunities
56-57 Nov.indd 56
10/21/10 1:36:03 PM
A selection of the latest classified ads you can see on our website now Business for sale Business opportunity. Established, fully licensed Spanish travel agency for sale. A unique opportunity for someone living in Barcelona looking to have their own business, which can be run from home or from a small office. Specialising in stag and hen weekends, company trips, adventure activities, apartment rentals and tours of Barcelona, the website creates leads on a daily basis. For more details on how you can own this fun and excting business contact: Joanna@barcelonatours.net Tea shop for sale in Travessera de Gracia - 10 year contract - €350 per month rent Tel. 628 334 668
For rent
Two-bedroom flat in Born. 50m2. 775€ pm + bills. Fully furnished, excellent condition, heating and aircon. quiet location. walk in shower, separate toilet. Very large living, dining kitchen area. Two balconies, high ceilings, lots of light. 619 908 642 Mick Flat with amazing views to Barcelona in Vallvidrera!!! Super flat duplex next to Tibidabo, two baths, three rooms and amazing balcony with views to the city. With furniture, aircon and heating. Contact 609 349 6 56 / 630 967 220 Great one-bedroom apartment in the city center- fully renovated and has everything you need to live comfortably! No agency fee as you can rent directly from the owner. If you are looking for a flat, don’t miss out on this one!!! Check out the link for pictures and more information- http:// web.me.com/pandeajo/APARTMENT_BARCELONA/Bienvenida.html Sitges: 3 bedroom, 2 bathroom apartment near centre. Ground Floor. Quiet location only 5 mins walk from beach/centre. Own courtyard. Good distribution of double, twin and single rooms. 750 Euros per month. Call 669 436 971. Villa with private pool (sleeps 7) with view of the sea near Masnou port. Lovely home, private pool, gar-
classifieds Nov 2010.indd 1
dens, view of the sea. 4 bedrooms, 4 bathrooms, 1 w/ Jacuzzi. Kitchen fully equipped, dish washer, toaster, washer and dryer. Living room/ dining room all furnished and decorated in a comfortable Spanish style. Bedding, towels, Master bedroom w/ fire place. 2 car garage. Pool 12m x 15m. Garden over 700m sq., yard furniture and swing. Roof top solarium 100m sq. A few km from Masnou urban center and port, 15km to BCN Airport and 80km to Girona Airport. Quiet neighborhood. Car recommended. 6000€ / month, minimum 4 months stay. Interested parties please call Rachel at 699 340 339 or email rrrrobertson@yahoo.com for more info and pictures. Offices to rent We are renting work spaces, 5 min from the Rambla. Located in a charming passage but isolated from the bustle. Space spread over two floors. The lower level is at street level and used as a showroom / exhibition space. At the top level are the ideal working space for freelancers, illustrators, web designers and photographers working with a computer. The rent includes the desktop, wi-fi, telephone and meeting space / additional workshops. The monthly price is 150 €. Interested contact at cream.espaicreatiu @ gmail.com. Thank you!
Seeking
Looking for a nice guy Spanish girl early thirties, searching for someone to share nice moments: live music, dinner,day out or just a bottle of wine in the beach.Someone with a good sense of humor,positive,easy going and open-minded. My email: moglich@hotmail.es Language exchange Language exchange Spanish (Catalan) - English Look people to exchange one hour of Spanish for one hour of English. I’m a man of 43 years old in Barcelona city (Eixample). EXCHANGE MY SPANISH FOR YOUR ENGLISH // BARCELONA CITY Hi, I’m 32, from barcelona I need to practice English conversation in exchange for my Spanish. You can write
to, masajes_masculino@yahoo.es EXCHANGING MY SPANISH OR CATALAN WITH YOUR ENGLISH Hi!!!! My name is Alé, a 33 native Spanish speaker, borned in Barcelona. I am looking for a native English speaker to improve my spoken English and exchange it with Spanish or Catalán. I prefer American English, but others are welcome too. Contact me in msn: amateo3@gmail.com Looking forward to hearing from you. Alé English exchange Hello, I am a 32 years old woman interested in practicing my english with some native speaker or the like, who lives in Barcelona or is about to move on. No matter man or woman, besides it would be great to meet new people and make friendship. Interested, please write to laeradeldragon@gmail.com of course I can help you with spanish ;)
For sale
DOUBLE BED BASE 180 X 140 BRAND NEW AND VERY GOOD QUALITY (50€) NEAREST OFFER ACCEPTED I ideally wanted 58 euros as this cost me 112 new, but I will take the nearest offer. Its never been used. It is a decent one with a sturdy structure, proper legs, slight susupension and doesn’t squeak. It was bought when setting up a hostel but I am now changing location. I can deliver for the cost of petrol. All offers considered! DOUBLE BED BASE 180 X 140 CALL ME ON 645257783 (KERRY) wilkinson_kerry@ hotmail.com CASH ONLY Clear out sale - Baby things and handbags! Selection of baby things for sale - Petit Bateau clothes, Bugaboo gecko, Baby Bjorn Bouncer, Nappy Bag, and handbags. view at http:// picasaweb.google.com/fielding.r.e/ Sale# or email fielding.r.e@gmail. com or call Rachel on 690 654 534. Washing machine Washing machine, only 1 year old, still under warantee, with up to 1000 centrifuge, lots of options (cottons, delicates, handwash, quick) and the possibility to delay (starting washing in 3 hrs, 6 hrs, 9hrs). Zanussi, for
sale: 175 € Other items like iron and ironing board (both items together 15 €) for sale. Contact: 605811578 or alanalacatalana@yahoo.com IKEA Safety Gate IKEA “ Patrull Fast” Safety Gate. For fixing across doorways or at the top or bottom of stairs. Fits openings between 72.5 and 79cms wide. The gate is in good condition and comes complete with all fixings, the original instructions and templates for for easy installation. 18€ or near offer. Please contact ivorrap@gmail. com Mov: 660 240 392 We are in central Barcelona, easily and quickly accessible from Placa Catalunya Baby Jogger - single - Instep US brand - model 10k - blue - big wheel suitable for mountain hikes also. We have a double now as two children and do not need the old one. Working fine with 16” wheels in back and smaller in front I think it is. 2 x Basket underneath for stuff. Seat can be laid down so child up to 25 kg can sleep in comfort. Collection only for only fix price 99 euro (new 290 euro), C/Trafalgar. Contact arne-b@ bigfoot.com or 667 307 798 New, unused baby things for sale, very cheap! Everything is in its original packaging, unopened. These are items I bought new, haven’t used and now I find I don’t need them: Tommee Tippee “Steribottle”: presterilised, ready to use, single use, individually wrapped disposable bottles with teats. 250ml. Suitable for babies 3 months and above. One pack of four bottles and one of three. 7€ for all seven. One pack of five pairs of Marks and Spencers “Hello Kitty” knickers. Age 3-4 years. Height 104cms. Brand new. 3€ (Original UK price £5.00) One pack of three Marks and Spencer “Petit Bebe” 100% cotton long sleeve sleepsuits. One plain white rib, one white with pale blue stars pattern, one pale blue and white stripes. Age 2-3 years, height 97cms. Brand new. 5€ (Original UK price £8.00) I am in Barcelona city, veryeasily and quickly accessible from Placa Catalunya. ivorrap@gmail.com Mob: 660 24 03 92
10/21/10 12:21:57 PM
58 BACK PAGE
PLANES, TRAINS AND POPE-MOBILES
T
he distant rumble presaging the Pope’s
a valid point if the Sagrada Família were being
between the two, especially in summer when
imminent visit to Barcelona grows loud-
built from hand-carved stone and erected with
bare flesh and bottled water is the real giveaway,
er by the day. Or is that the sound of the
the help of wooden scaffolding and mules. But
either the church authorities will have to open
massive tunnelling device burrowing its way be-
with cement cladding and cranes, even the most
the gates to all and sundry or face the undigni-
low the Sagrada Família like a monstrous earth-
work-shy builder should be able to get a cathe-
fied—and possibly unchristian—option of bar-
worm? With impressive coordination, his Holi-
dral done in under a decade. It’s a shame the
ring access to the unworthy, the unwashed and
ness’ appearance has coincided with the arrival
previous Polish Pope, John Paul II died before
the unbelieving.
of the hole itself. The one that some observers
the mass migration of Polish builders, otherwise
So why consecrate now, and not when it’s fin-
fear will destroy the Sagrada Família’s foun-
he might have been able to intercede (directly,
ished? Perhaps the recent (literal) undermining
dations and eventually bring the whole edifice
rather than through the hit-and-miss medium of
of the church by the high speed train line has
crashing to the ground. Tunnelling for the new
prayer, a form of instruction that few builders,
brought forward the Pope’s official sanction by
high speed train line directly below the church is
Polish or otherwise, seem to follow).
several decades. This might be to secure divine
“
complete, although sceptics are still concerned
A more probable reason for the delay is that
protection for the building, in case of cracks and
that vibrations from the trains themselves might
once it’s consecrated, it’s going to be even harder
vibrations, although presumably the tunnelling
accomplish what the drilling has failed to and
to persuade visitors to pay to see inside. At the
company have their own, more mundane, insur-
send irreparable cracks up into the building’s
moment, the vast majority of tourists enjoy the
ance policy to cover such eventualities. Or possi-
foundations.
church from the far side of the perimeter fence,
bly it’s to alter the insurance category in case of
In the meantime, the Sagrada Família is fi-
a vantage point that makes up in spectacle what
a claim; from building site to fully-functioning
nally being consecrated. But why has it taken so
it lacks in tranquility and road safety. Somehow
(and Pope-approved) church.
long for clerical blessing? It’s true that the edifice
word has got out that the interior, soaring and
Of course, if the tunnelling has affected the
has enjoyed something of a spurt in recent years,
serene though it might be, is considerably less
foundations, it won’t be the first time the rail
but it’s still far from complete. And that’s after
dramatic and with difficulty justifies the rather
network has threatened completion of the ca-
more than a century, time enough, one would
steep entrance fee. Although the building is ad-
thedral, following the unfortunate death of the
think, for even the most reluctant papal visit. In
vancing well and has been tidied up and even
architect after a run-in with a tram. On the oth-
the era of budget airlines and weekend breaks,
glazed in preparation for his Holiness, nothing
er hand, if Gaudí does finally get canonised, the
his Holiness must be one of the last remaining
quite conceals the fact that it is still mostly a
Pope will be able to travel from Rome by high-
people in Europe not to have seen the Sagrada
building site.
speed train which will be safer than flying. And
Família—although it’s true that he probably gets
Once it’s consecrated and services are held
invited on fewer international stag weekends
there, those wily tourists who at present console
than most.
themselves with seeing only the exterior will
Historians might point out that most Europe-
start mingling with congregants attending Mass.
an cathedrals took well over a century to build,
And while it’s usually quite easy to distinguish
HOROSCOPE
far better for the holy carbon footprint.
--Roger de Flower
www.nuriapicola.com
by Nuria Picola
Aries You continue to review your love life, everything goes slow in strong relationships and you need to take your time. If you are looking for work, explore abroad with foreign companies.
Taurus If you are single, you could experience some romantic opportunities with people from your past that might come through family reunions. It is not advisable to make decisions on love this month.
Gemini Those matters which were holding you back have been put to rest and finally resolved. This increases the pace of events and is hugely beneficial for your love life and social life.
Cancer Conserve your energy and focus your attention on what is most essential to maintain a healthy lifestyle. This is a good time to tidy your house and sort out bank statements.
Leo Your job isn’t the most important thing this month, obviously you must not give up on it, but you shouldn’t get so hung up about it. It’s worth reviewing it seriously though; what you like about it and what you don’t.
Virgo
Pay attention to all your finances, dealings and purchases this month. Read the small print and ask all the questions you need to. If you are looking for work you may find something in the world of fashion.
Libra
You are reviewing your personal possessions, your image and your wardrobe as a consequence of personal introspection. Effective relationships, above all else, need much communication between the couple.
Scorpio
Sagittarius
Capricorn Friendships have become unstable and posed problems and this will continue it seems, although there will be possibilities to resolve this. It’s better to have few good friends than many half-hearted ones.
Aquarius Your kindness is very im-
Pisces It’s possible that you’ll have
It’s a good time to invest in technology and upgrade what you already have. Online deals are also in your favour. In love you feel a bit persecuted, in both serious relationships as well as in casual ones.
portant in the workplace this month and your success depends on it. Certain difficulties may arise but your enthusiasm allows you to overcome them. Look after your partner.
Congratulations! You’re enjoying a moment of personal power and will be shining this month. Professional opportunities continue to present themselves, but you should be selective with the different offers.
some friction in your job; perhaps disagreements between you and your superiors in regards to financial matters, but give it time and an arrangement will be found.
scoop By Ben Rowdon
58 Back page....indd 90
10/20/10 12:18:51 PM
main pages - Nov 10 .indd 2
10/19/10 1:51:57 PM
APARTMENTS FOR RENT IN BARCELONA Newly built apartments
HIGH QUALITY.
- Next to Born
New build, Plaza Pau Vila. Apartments with 1 bedroom (1 bathroom) and with 2 bedrooms (2 bathrooms). Fully-fitted kitchen with washing machine, dryer, fridge, dishwasher, microwave, oven and extractor hood. Heating and air con. Parking space and storage room. Community charges included. From 1.200€
SARRIA NEW BUILD
ZONA GLORIAS c/ Independencia
Pedestrian street
Many apartments available 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, fitted kitchen. Heating and air con. Parking and storage room.
Variety of apartments available furnished or unfurnished. 1 and 2 bedrooms. Heating and air conditioning. Swimming pool. Parking available.
Furnished, semi-detached designer house. 3 bedrooms, games room, living room with access to the garden, swimming pool, garage.
Prices from €1300
Prices from €825
Price on request
PºBonanova - V.Augusta
gestin full page Nov 2010.indd 1
LEs Corts
10/19/10 1:54:51 PM