Barcelona Metropolitan Issue 253 by Barcelona Metropolitan

FEBRUARY 2018 Nº 253

CARNIVAL

BEAT ALL ABOARD?

BARCELONA’S CRUISE INDUSTRY

CARCASSONNE A MEDIEVAL CITADEL

4YFN INTERVIEW WITH ESTEBAN REDOLFI

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MUSIC

SHOPPING

NEW IN TOWN

STREETLIFE

RESTAURANT REVIEWS

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CONTENTS

ISSUE 253 · FEBRUARY 2018

18 REPORT: A BUOYANT INDUSTRY Michael Leafe examines Barcelona as a cruise ship port

24 CARNIVAL DANCE Where to samba in the city

38 INTERVIEW We speak to the Director of 4YFN, Esteban Redolfi

46 CARCASSONNE Head north to this historic citadel

IN THE CITY 06 09 10 12 14 17 23 40

New in town Five things Streetlife A place of my own Best of History Shopping Photo essay

WHAT’S ON 28 32 34 36

Music Art Calendar Misc

WORKING LIFE 43 Startup of the month 44 A day in the life

TRAVEL 50 Sant Miquel d’Olèrdola

FOOD & DRINK 52 Restaurant review 55 Quick bites 56 Recipe JAKE BUGG P.28

METROPOLITAN CONTRIBUTORS Publisher The Noise Lab S.L. Founder Esther Jones Senior Editor Carol Moran Contributing Editor Rachel Huffman Art Director Aisling Quigley Marketing Director Jalil Alui Client Care Manager Aminah Barnes Account Executive Richard Cardwell Sales Assistant Charlotte Meesters Office Manager Marina Piegari Editorial Assistants Lottie Hanwell, Gemma Macmillan-Fox, Marie Martin, Poppy McAlister, Natalia Quiros-Edmunds, Charlotte Stace Design Assistants Anna Baxter Contributors Paul Cannon, Natalie Donback, Sophie Heywood, Catherine Howley, Michael Leafe, Sam Mednick, Katy Palmer, Will Shank, Tara Stevens, Sam Zucker Illustrator Ben Rowdon Cover Michael Mawson Duc 6, 08002 Barcelona Tel. 93 451 4486 editorial@barcelona-metropolitan.com ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com The views expressed in Barcelona Metropolitan are not necessarily those of the publisher. Reproduction, or use, of advertising or editorial content herein, without express permission, is prohibited. Depósito legal: B35159-96

POPPY McALISTER A Spanish and English literature student at the University of Edinburgh, Poppy is completing her year abroad in Barcelona. She has recently joined Metropolitan after working as a freelance writer for Barcelona Connect, Matrix Barcelona and PERDIZ Magazine. Since moving to the city, she has had the opportunity to write about cooking schools, museums, Michelinstarred restaurants and Barcelona’s buzzing nightlife. She is making the most of the Spanish weather before returning to the Scottish capital.

MICHAEL LEAFE By day, Michael works in communications for an international business school. The rest of the time, he writes about his main interests: travel, music and culture. Originally from Loughborough in the UK, Michael studied law at the University of Manchester. Following extensive travels in Latin America, he decided to relocate to Barcelona, harbouring naive dreams of improving his Spanish. When not found behind a keyboard, you’re likely to catch him running or cycling the city’s streets.

ANNA BAXTER Anna is in her third year as a graphic design student at the University of Leeds. Escaping the cold of northern England for a six-month stint in Barcelona, she is currently gaining work experience at Metropolitan as part of her year abroad. Her interests include painting, print design, experimental cooking and dancing badly. She can frequently be found getting lost in the city, attempting to speak Spanish to shop assistants, drinking sangria and drawing in her favourite place, Parc de la Ciutadella.

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IN THE CITY

new in town

REDUCE, REUSE, RECYCLE YES FUTURE. VILADOMAT 66.  HOLA@YESFUTURE.STORE Yes Future is a plastic-free, zero-waste refill station. Customers are encouraged to bring reusable jars, bottles and containers for all their wine, grain, legume, cereal, spice, nut, dried fruit, soap and detergent needs. Opened in September of last year, Olga Rodríguez and her business partner, Alejandro Martínez, have already started to change the way the residents of Sant Antoni shop. “There were a lot of young people previously living a zero-waste lifestyle in the neighbourhood, but in the past, they had to go to a number of different shops to buy everything they need in bulk,” said Rodríguez. “Our main goal is to give consumers a one-stop shop.” The concept of a ‘positive supermarket’ has not been lost on the older generations either. “Older people are more sceptical, but once I explain what we’re trying to do here [to sell organic products that support sustainable agriculture without producing more rubbish], they frequent the store more and more often.”

BREAKFAST OF CHAMPIONS CEREAL HUNTERS CAFÉ. CONSELL DE CENT 245. CEREALHUNTERSCAFE.COM One hundred and thirty breakfast cereals encourage customers to indulge their inner child at this whimsical cafe in the Eixample. Now with nine locations across Spain, the affordably priced breakfast bar chain was inspired by a similar cafe in London, and founded in Madrid in 2016 by Jaime Salvat and José Javier Fernandez. Patrons can choose a cereal from the rainbow of boxes that span a whole wall of the space, a topping and one of 19 types of milk available. “We also cater for various dietary requirements,” explained Jonathan Vázquez, the Barcelona store manager.

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(F)EMPOWERMENT DOWNTOWN OFFICES. BALMES 323, 1-1.  DOWNTOWNOFFICES.ES Part of the growing global trend to create supportive work communities for female entrepreneurs, Downtown Offices is the first of its kind in Barcelona. It’s a work hub where women in business can learn, share, network, feel inspired and utilise essential services to help their professional growth. Whether she rents a desk in the shared office space or a private office for her and her team, each woman will have access to important resources such as a network of angel investors and expert speakers, strategic brainstorming sessions, and referrals to potential business partners. “We live in an era of female empowerment,” said founder Astrid Aafjes. “As a social entrepreneur, I’ve met many corporate women, who for different reasons decided to start their own business—to have a more flexible schedule, to be more independent or to realise their dream—and I want to help them succeed.” Monthly membership fees range from €175 to €250, with flexible contracts and 24/7 access to the office. In addition, all female entrepreneurs with a business that has been up and running for more than six months are eligible to apply for the Think Big Award. The winner of the annual award receives free access to Downtown Offices for six months, and the support she needs for her business to thrive.

FOR THE LOVE OF YOUR GUT FERMENT 9. SEPÚLVEDA 135.  FERMENT9.COM Fermentation is not a trend. In fact, it predates written history, and has been in popular use by humans for millennia. Canadian Matthew Calderisi, owner of Ferment 9, made his first jar of dill pickles when he was 13. Growing up, his Italian relatives on his father’s side fermented wine, sausages and cheese, while his mother’s English family were into pickling. “There was never a shortage of pungent-smelling concoctions in our house,” Calderisi joked. He also made a Korean friend at school, who gave him kimchi at lunch one day: “I was immediately hooked,” said Calderisi, “and the next day his mom showed me how to make it.” Ferment 9 is the culmination of these early experiences. Opened in August of last year, the space is divided into a ground floor store, which sells sauerkraut, kimchi, kefir, kombucha and more; an upstairs workshop, where fermentation classes for beginners to experts will take place starting this month; and a fermentation chamber with its own climate, where all the in-house products are made. “I can’t go a day without sauerkraut,” said Calderisi, “and I like kimchi, but what I really love is a good, fermented kosher dill pickle.” His mother, Sue, who works in the shop with him, added, “All you have to do is include a small amount of these foods in your diet to reap the health benefits”, such as the introduction of beneficial bacteria into your digestive system. Follow her advice and your gut will thank you.

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FIVE THINGS

DATE NIGHT Surprise your valentine with a different kind of date

FUNNY FEELING

A sense of humour goes a long way in a relationship, so test out your date’s funny bone with a night of comedy. Barcelona has multiple English-language comedy clubs that welcome world-class comedians and novices alike to their stage. Guiriness Comedy Club, run by Belfast native Zara Patterson, is known for flying in professionals from Britain and Ireland on a near-monthly basis to perform at The Shamrock Irish Bar (Tallers 72) and the Wylie Brewery in Sitges. Just Kidding Barcelona, regularly hosted by the show’s co-founder Andy J. Ritchie, from Edinburgh, has a variety of stand-up comedy shows, as well as open mic nights. For a midweek chuckle, Stand-up Comedy Live takes place every Wednesday at Craft Barcelona (Paradís 4), while Barcelona Improv Group holds monthly shows at Tinta Roja (Creu dels Molers 17) and offers Sunday drop-in classes—fun, low-pressure workshops, where you can have a go at making your partner laugh.

SHIPMATE

For a night with a nautical twist, try one of Barcelona’s evening boat rides. Watch the sun set behind Tibidabo and the city lights begin to sparkle whilst gliding gently across the Mediterranean. On Catamaran Orsom’s sunset cruise, you’ll sail to the smooth sounds of live jazz, or if you really want to push the boat out, Get Your Guide has a twohour sunset sailing tour, which includes a complimentary glass of cava and the opportunity to steer the boat. As long as you’re both steady on your sea legs, you could even try becoming the captain of your own ship. GetMyBoat and Click&Boat each have hundreds of boats you can charter or rent for the ultimate privacy amongst the lapping waves.

NICE WHEELS

Hang on to your date for dear life as you roll your way around the city—any excuse for some good oldfashioned hand holding. One of the city’s most popular rollerblading spots is the beachfront promenade that starts at Barceloneta and runs all the way to the Fòrum. Another well-known place to roll around is Passeig de Lluís Companys, the wide, pedestrianised boulevard connecting the Arc de Triomf with Parc de la Ciutadella. For a more casual date, show off your skills alongside the Asociación de Patinadores de Barcelona, as they race across the city every Friday night at 10.30pm. If you don’t have your own wheels, you can pick up a pair at Rental Scooter Barcelona (Salvador Espriu 63) or Inercia (Roger de Flor 10), which rent rollerblades by the hour.

SPICE IT UP

If the way to your date’s heart is through the stomach, then sharpen your culinary skills at one of Barcelona’s cooking classes. bcnKITCHEN in the Born (Fusina 15), encourages you to roll up your sleeves, put on an apron and get your hands dirty in one of its many cooking classes, from creative tapas and Basque pintxos to Spanish rice, Japanese sushi and gourmet hamburgers. Cook & Taste Barcelona (Paradís 3), set in a medieval building in the Gothic Quarter, offers private courses with a focus on Catalan cuisine, and at Espai Boisà in the Eixample (Passatge de Lluís Pellicer 8), you can learn to cook healthy, organic Mediterranean recipes before savouring your handiwork with a glass of wine in the small, peaceful garden.

DANCE THE NIGHT AWAY

It takes two to tango, right? El Desbande (Mare de Déu dels Desemparats 5) offers Argentine tango classes for all levels. Taught by professionals who have mastered the hotblooded dance, they’ll bring out the fire within you. Practise your new moves at the school’s after-hours dance parties, or try one of the city’s many dance clubs. Mojito Club (Rosselló 217) boasts popular salsa nights, and Gracia Latina (Or 19) has a fiery dance floor filled with authentic rumba, tango and bachata.

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IN THE CITY

streetlife

CARRER DE RAMÓN Y CAJAL Orange trees cast shadows on this charming street in the heart of Gràcia, home to a host of independent and artisanal businesses

No 4 Amelia BAkery

Follow the smell of freshly baked goods into this pretty artisanal bakery run by husband and wife Carlos Llobera Buscaldi and Fabiana Rodriguez Heredia. The pair works hard all day to churn out made-to-order, creatively decorated sweet treats—cupcakes, brownies, cookies, personalised birthday cakes and more—using 100 percent natural ingredients. Be sure to try the red velvet cake, a personal favourite of Rodriguez. ameliabakery.com

No 13

THE CURIOSITY SHOP

Four years ago, three friends—an ancient history professor, a graphic designer and a secondary school teacher—decided to translate their enthusiasm for traditional board games into a business. The result was The Curiosity Shop, Gràcia’s only board game store, where wooden shelves are bedecked with all sorts of games, and not only in Spanish and Catalan. “As the Spanish market is usually behind that of England and Germany, we source a lot of our products internationally,” said co-founder Sergi Calazada. Those with a competitive streak can join the shop’s regular games nights featuring games based on Star Wars, Lord of the Rings, Game of Thrones and more. www.thecuriosityshop.es

No 34

VEGERE

According to manager and beautician Mayte Sánchez Domínguez, Vegere, Barcelona’s first vegan beauty centre, was born out of “the necessity to approach beauty from an entirely new angle”. With the aim of working towards a more ethical, sustainable and environmentally conscious planet, the centre only works with products and brands that are 100 percent animal-free in origin. With treatments ranging from oxygen and anti-aging facials to pedicures, massages and hair removal, Vegere is the place for guilt-free pampering. vegere.es

No 32

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SUNSAIS

No 32

This eco-friendly concept store was founded online in 2012, when entrepreneur Alice Sunçais united her passion for ethical, sustainable and ecological consumerism with her love for fashion. For Sunçais, environmental awareness runs in the blood: her parents were the founders of the Asociación Vida Sana (Healthy Living Association) and Barcelona’s first vegetarian restaurant. Based on the mantra ‘trust what you wear’, Sunsais sources its products from local and environmentally responsible designers. Women’s clothing hangs beside large wooden tables adorned with potted plants, glass picture frames, candles, delicate jewellery and other knickknacks. sunsais.com

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No 45-47

VINIL VINTAGE

Have a mooch around a large selection of second-hand vinyls at this small, Aladdin’s cave. Rows of neatly organised boxes provide ample browsing opportunities, and with prices as low as €5, you’re sure to find a bargain. The shop also sells a range of second-hand music equipment, such as record players, offers a repair service and welcomes exchanges.

No 49 La boutique de artisans createurs francais

This boutique showcases beautiful creations by artists and artisans from across France. Open since June 2017, French owner Valérie sources handmade jewellery, bags, art and more from small independent designers. So, if you’re looking for a special gift with a certain je ne sais quoi, it is the ideal place to pick up something interesting and unique, whether that be a sculpture, an intricately designed ring or pieces from the range of brightly coloured ceramics.

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IN THE CITY

A PLACE OF MY OWN

THE VIEW FROM MAGNUS AND ANA’S PENTHOUSE NEVER GETS OLD

ituated on Passeig de Colom, with spectacular panoramas from his top floor terraces, Swede Magnus Jern couldn’t have asked for a better location to make his home from home. He moved into the apartment eight years ago, after his friend moved out. “I wasn’t all that sad to see him go,” Magnus joked, and in 2014, his now wife, Ana Rodriguez Tocón, joined him in this haven on high. For five years prior to relocating, Magnus was commuting between London, Barcelona and New York. “I was based in London,” he said, “but I got tired of the rain.” Once he settled in Barcelona, however, he quickly realised something unsettling about this city as well. “Part of the reason I wanted to spend more time in Barcelona was to be closer to the sea. I love the water. I love to surf. But it kills me to see so much plastic floating in the Med and washed onto Barcelona’s beaches.” Bottled water consumption in Spain increased from about 74 million glass bottles in 1965 to between six and eight billion plastic bottles in 2016, which has caused big issues in terms of plastic pollution, as only about 20 percent gets recycled. Magnus decided to take action. Along with a friend, he spent three years researching the subject, learning the composition of Barcelona’s tap water and how to make an effective filter. His company, TAPP Water, now sells tap and shower filters that remove at least 70 chemicals and reduce the effects of more than 50 others, such as chlorine, heavy metals and pesticides. Stepping off the elevator into Magnus and Ana’s one-bedroom apartment, the kitchen, which features a TAPP 1 proudly attached to the kitchen tap, is the first space that comes into view. Where there used to be a wall, closing off the kitchen from the rest of the apartment, now stands an island and two bar stools with white button-tufted seat cushions and low, silver backrests. Removing the wall is the only major structural change the couple has made to the place. “It was a good decision,” said Magnus, “because we spend a lot of time in there, especially when we have people over in the colder months. The kitchen is where everyone tends to congregate.”

When asked what they most often cook, Magnus replied “gazpacho” without a moment’s hesitation. “My mother is from Andalusia,” Ana elaborated, and under the pseudonym Lady Gazpacho, Ana launched a culinary initiative to share her family recipe with the world. To the right of the kitchen is the bedroom. Bathed in natural light, there’s a wall of bookshelves and a unicorn nestled amongst the pillows on the bed. It’s hard to pay attention to what’s inside, however, as the French doors leading out to the back terrace beckon. “We use this terrace for reading, when we want to have a more peaceful moment, or to watch the sun set,” Ana said.

“No matter how long I live here, I don’t think I will ever get tired of looking out at the sea” On the other side of the kitchen, through an open foyer, lies the dining room table and a cosy living room. Magnus started decorating the apartment before Ana moved in. “That’s why all the furniture is Scandinavian,” she said with a smile. Together they added more personal touches, such as paintings on almost every wall, most of which they created at paint parties hosted by a friend. Even with their art displayed, and original hydraulic floor tiles gleaming in different patterns across the apartment, the interior pales in comparison to the outdoor spaces. “Since we’re only renting, it’s hard to find the motivation to renovate, design and perfect everything we want,” explained Ana, and they both admit they have given more attention to the design of the front terrace as opposed to the one facing towards the Barcelona Cathedral and the mountains.

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If you’ve made yourself an interesting home from home, please send an email to editorial@barcelona-metropolitan.com

The open-plan kitchen is perfect for entertaining guests

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A covered lounge area with a comfy sofa and two armchairs, a black and white geometric rug underneath dark brown patio furniture, a sleek barbecue pit and aerial views of the superyachts docked at Port Vell make up this slice of paradise. “We have barbecues out here at least three times a week in the summer,” said Magnus, “and used to have just as many parties, but cut back after one too many complaints from the neighbours.” Shielding his eyes from the sun, he said, “No matter how long I live here, I don’t think I will ever get tired of looking out at the sea.” Magnus and Ana are expecting a baby, which poses the question: is this seafront abode big enough for a family? “For the first year I think we’ll all fit,” said Magnus. “Babies are small.” But as the little one gets bigger, they’ll have to re-evaluate the situation. “I would be extremely sad if we had to leave this place,” he confessed, “but even if we eventually move away from the city, I’ll never really leave.”

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IN THE CITY

best of

BIRD’S-EYE VIEWS

THE BEST SPOTS IN THE CITY TO GET A 360-DEGREE PANORAMA PORT CABLE CAR

AVDA. MIRAMAR S/N. TELEFERICODEBARCELONA.COM Connecting the Port of Barcelona with Montjuïc, Barcelona’s port cable car dates from the early 20th century. Originally planned to connect the two sites of the 1929 Barcelona International Exposition, the founder of the project, Carles Buïgas, alongside his collaborators Ramón Calzada and Josep M. Roda, failed to raise sufficient funds to open it in time. After a twoyear construction period, Roda eventually saw the project through to its completion in 1931. During the Spanish Civil War, the three towers were transformed into strategic defence posts, and it wasn’t until 1963 that regular service was resumed. After a two-year restoration period, starting in 1995, the cable car began transporting passengers all year round for the first time since its inauguration more than 60 years earlier. The 1,300-metre stretch takes about 10 minutes and offers unparalleled views of the city, the port and the beach. In addition, Torre Sant Sebastià—the 78-metre tall, free-standing lattice tower where the cable car terminates at the port—houses the restaurant Torre d’Alta Mar, a fine dining experience for a special occasion. Tickets cost €11 one-way and €16.50 for a return.

CATHELICOPTERS

Founded in 2000, Cathelicopters has the only permanent, public heliport located in Barcelona, and is the only commercial company legally allowed to fly over the city. With more than 30 years of industry experience between them, Cathelicopters’ crew has flown more than 160,000 passengers. The 45-minute Sky Tour (€115) takes passengers along the coast to the Fòrum, past Torre Glòries and the Sagrada Família, then along Diagonal to Camp Nou before heading to Plaça d’Espanya, Montjuïc and the Olympic Park. In contrast, the 35-minute Costa Tour (€69) sticks to the shore, with views of the Columbus Monument, Maremagnum and Barceloneta. It’s possible to extend the Sky Tour and fly all the way to the Montserrat mountain range for €299 per person.

Photo courtesy of Ernest Siquier

HELIPUERTO DE BARCELONA, MOLL ADOSSAT. CATHELICOPTERS.COM

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Photo by Zach Marzouk

BUNKERS DEL CARMEL

MARIÀ LAVÈRNIA S/N. BUNKERS.CAT

The 262-metre-high Turó de la Rovira provides a natural vantage point over the surrounding area. Sitting at the top of the hill is a collection of concrete platforms and bunkers that date back to 1937, when they were built as part of an anti-aircraft battery to defend the city during the Spanish Civil War. After the war ended, widespread poverty across Spain saw an influx of immigrants in Barcelona and shanty towns, known as barracas, sprung up in any available spot around the city. The abandoned bunkers were soon repurposed to provide shelter for immigrants, who showed great ingenuity in adapting the deteriorating site to suit their needs. The informal settlement became known as ‘Els Canons’, and at its peak there were around 600 inhabitants and 110 shanties. It was finally cleared in 1990, when the city council relocated residents ahead of the 1992 Olympic Games. The site fell into disrepair until it was excavated in 2006, and became an official historic site of the Museu d’Història de Barcelona (MUHBA) in 2011. Today the spot attracts tourists and locals alike, mainly to enjoy the spectacular 360-degree views of Barcelona and beyond.

Photo courtesy of Marea Alta, Marea Baja

TEMPLE EXPIATORI DEL SAGRAT COR CUMBRE DEL TIBIDABO. TIBIDABO.SALESIANOS.EDU

Photo by Jordiferrer

The tallest mountain in the Serra de Collserola, Tibidabo is topped by Barcelona’s answer to Sacré-Cœur in Paris: the Temple Expiatori del Sagrat Cor. The temple is actually two churches, one on top of the other, and is the realised vision of Spanish architect Enric Sagnier, the prolific architect behind nearly 300 buildings in Barcelona. Sagnier was known for his eclectic style, with certain Classical tendencies. The first stone, brought from the Montjuïc quarries, was placed on December 28th, 1902, and work on the church was completed by Sagnier’s son, Josep Maria Sagnier, in 1961. The external appearance of the lower church (known as ‘the crypt’) is of a Romanesque fortress, while the structure perched on top is neo-Gothic in style, constructed using blueish-grey stone from Girona and accessible by two grand, outdoor staircases. The temple is crowned by an enormous bronze statue of Christ made by Josep Miret in 1950, which replaced the original made by Frederic Marès in 1935. The mountain rises sharply to the north-west and provides visitors to the church with views of the entire city and its coastline. To get even higher, take the lift to the roof for just €3.50.

MAREA ALTA, MAREA BAJA

AVDA. DE LES DRASSANES 6. MAREAALTAMAREABAjA.COM Situated on the 24th floor of the Edifici Colón, with a fine view of the port, this marine-themed restaurant specialises in chargrilled fish and smoked dishes. Led by Enrique Valentí, the restaurant’s team of chefs from across the country draws its inspiration from Spanish cuisine, with some Japanese and French influences. Ingredients come from Spain’s major fishing ports and suppliers—turbot from Getaria in the Basque Country, hake and alfonsino from Puerto de Cudillero in Asturias, crustaceans from Galician fish markets in Vigo and La Coruña, red prawns from Palamós, oysters from the Delta de l'Ebre, tuna from Cádiz, and so on. With views that stretch to the horizon, patrons can enjoy all the flavours of the sea on one plate, or try Marea Baja on the 23rd floor for a pre-dinner drink.

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HISTORY

DOCTOR’S ORDERS A TRIBUTE TO SIR ALEXANDER FLEMING, THE SCOTTISH PHYSICIAN WHO DISCOVERED PENICILLIN By Catherine Howley

LOCATION: JARDINS DEL DOCTOR FLEMING

he city of Barcelona pays homage to the British scientist Alexander Fleming in two locations: on Carrer Doctor Fleming in the Eixample and in the gardens of Doctor Fleming in the Raval. In May 1948, Fleming visited Barcelona at the request of his friend, Dr. Lluís Trias de Bes, to open the research department of the Municipal Infectious Diseases Hospital (now Hospital del Mar). During his 12-day visit, the Nobel Prize winner gave five lectures: three in the hospital, one in the Royal Academy of Medicine, where he was named academic of honour, and one in the University of Barcelona. In one of his speeches, the scientist acknowledged the warm reception he and his wife received from the people of the city: “What has never happened to us in any city, of the many that we have visited, is the spontaneous demonstration of affection on the part of all the social classes that has taken place in Barcelona.” The press reported this cordial welcome at the time, describing how Fleming and his wife were applauded by the locals whenever seen in public. Although he discovered penicillin in 1928, it wasn’t until the Second World War that Fleming received recognition. The demand for medical assistance both during and after the war resulted in a rapid increase in the antibiotic’s usage. In 1945, Fleming received the Nobel Prize in Physiology or Medicine for his discovery, along with Howard Walter Florey and Ernst Boris Chain, with whom he collaborated in research. La Vanguardia wrote at the time of his visit: “Officially invited by the City Council of Barcelona as guest of honour, in a few short hours Sir Alexander Fleming will be with us, brilliant discoverer of the wonderful penicillin, which has saved so many human lives from certain death.” In 1956, a bust of the scientist was inaugurated in the gardens of Doctor Fleming, above a small water fountain with a commemorative plaque, which reads ‘Barcelona to Sir Alexander Fleming’. It can still be found on the wall of the building that houses the headquarters of the Royal Academy of Medicine. Over the years, several additional expressions of gratitude have been shown to Fleming and his discovery, including a plaque erected by Barcelona’s firefighters and, for decades, the laying of flowers at the bust by the prostitutes of the city.

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REPORT

ALL ABOARD? THE CHALLENGES FACING BARCELONA’S CRUISE INDUSTRY By Michael Leafe

arcelona is the most popular stop in Europe for cruise ship passengers. Official figures show that more than 750 cruise ships carrying 2.68 million passengers passed through the Port of Barcelona in 2016, making it the sixth-largest cruise ship port in the world, and the largest in Europe—followed by the Balearic Islands in ninth place and Venice in 14th. The cruise industry brings investment to Barcelona, attracting international businesses and providing jobs for thousands of people. But it’s a buoyant industry facing mounting criticism. In recent years, there have been increasing calls for the city council to protect Barcelona and its people from the negative environmental impact of the cruise liners, and to ease the congestion brought about by the daily influx of tourists. The biggest challenge that the local government faces is how to prioritise sustainability without harming the industry’s growth. It is just one aspect of the city's attempt to wrestle control over tourism. The development of the cruise ship industry in Barcelona is a relatively recent phenomenon, reflecting the city’s tourism boom. In 1990, just 115,000 passengers passed through the port. Though the establishment of Barcelona’s Junta de Obras del Puerto (Board of Port Construction) in the late-19th century gave rise to the first infrastructures and companies geared towards the port's development, the Spanish Civil War and decades of dictatorship under Franco inhibited the industry’s progress.

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Photo by Marcel Sala

Moll Adossat, Barcelona's cruise ship port

When democracy was restored in the late Seventies, a selection of cruise companies began to dock here, but it wasn’t until the 1992 Olympics that Barcelona really started to take off as a leading cruise ship destination. The remodelling of Port Vell and the establishment of the Autoritat Portuaria de Barcelona (Port Authority of Barcelona) were both critical to the development of the industry, while the tourist board worked to promote the city’s image as an attractive and interesting tourist destination. After the Olympics put Barcelona on the map, there was a steady increase in the number of cruise ships incorporating Barcelona into their routes. As well as its new-found popularity as a tourist destination, the city was also recognised for its convenient position within the Mediterranean basin and proximity to other popular European ports. Alfredo Serrano, Director General of the Cruise Lines International Association (CLIA) in Spain, proudly points out a 2014 report, Cruise Activity in Barcelona, published by the Port de Barcelona and Turisme de Barcelona and researched by the University of Barcelona.Findings show that the industry in Barcelona generates a turnover of €796 million, contributes €413.2 million per year to Catalunya’s GDP and helps to maintain 6,759 jobs. Investment in infrastructure projects at the port and airport has led international cruise operators, such as Carnival and Royal Caribbean, to open offices in Barcelona. Additional cruise-related spending in other areas, such as logistics, manufacturing and waste

management, ensures that 40 percent of the jobs underpinned by the cruise industry are based in non-tourist sectors. The growth of the industry here also reflects a global trend. “The Port of Barcelona saw an opportunity and has been able to make the most of it,” Serrano explained, stating that the growth of Barcelona's cruise industry serves as “an example of success that other cities want to follow”. No matter how impressive the economic data, however, it is hard to deny the environmental impact of cruise ships and their passengers. Research shows that cruise tourists consider noise, air quality and general cleanliness as Barcelona’s biggest drawbacks. Ironically, local residents and community groups say that these issues are created by the cruise industry itself. Most cruise liners run on marine or heavy fuel oil (HFO), a highly polluting variant of diesel. Daniel Rieger, a transport officer at German environment group Nabu, told The Guardian: “One cruise ship emits as many air pollutants as five million cars going the same distance.” HFO has a high sulphur content, which is damaging to the environment and, due to its extra-fine microparticles, has been proven to increase respiratory problems. Speaking on 'Dispatches', an investigative current affairs programme produced by Channel 4 in the UK, Dr. Matt Loxham of the University of Southampton said that the toxicity of cruise ship emissions is comparable to that found in some of the world's most polluted cities. The International Maritime Organisation (IMO)—the United

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The world's largest passenger ship, Royal Caribbean's Harmony of the Seas

Nations agency charged with regulating international shipping— has pledged to stop the use of HFO by 2020. In the meantime, cruise companies are fitting their ships with exhaust gas cleaning systems, which filter up to 80 percent of the most harmful pollutants. In Barcelona, air quality is a major cause for concern. Average pollutant levels surpass those recommended by the World Health Organisation (WHO). If Barcelona’s air quality complied with WHO recommendations, research shows that 659 premature deaths could be avoided annually and 47 days would be added to the life expectancy of citizens. A range of initiatives aim to improve air quality—including, from 2019, a ban on cars older than 20 years— although it is not clear what action will be implemented in relation to the cruise ship industry, besides the IMO pledge. In June 2016, there were protests as Royal Caribbean's Harmony of the Seas, the world’s largest passenger ship, docked in Barcelona. Hosting the 366-metre-long ship—which can transport 9,000 people—was one step too far for environmentalists and concerned residents. Described as a “floating city”, the ship boasts 23 swimming pools, 20 restaurants, a casino and a 1,400-capacity theatre. To keep all of this running, it burns thousands of litres of fuel per day. The following month, a record 65,000 passengers came through the port in one weekend; an immense number to descend upon the city all at once. Inès Bacardit, a 40-year-old Barcelona native, remembers the furore around the Harmony of the Seas but feels that it was just one highly publicised event that is representative of a wider problem. “Cruises are a serious inconvenience for the city at different levels,” she asserted. “They threaten public health through pollution, generate a huge amount of waste and the arrival of thousands of cruise passengers causes serious problems for residents trying to get around the city.” For Bacardit, tourists arriving on cruise ships do not have the time, nor the inclination, to experience the real Barcelona. "They're not really interested in getting to know the city in depth. They just want to see the main sights quickly and buy some souvenirs. Concerned resident Inés Lambisto, 31, from Barcelona, believes that this kind of ‘fast food’ cultural experience is damaging to the city: “Cruises promote a mass tourism that is unsustainable from the point of view of the citizen,” she claimed.

The official figures seem to support their arguments. Forty-eight percent of passengers are in transit—'excursionist' passengers who do not stay overnight—and have an average of just 4.3 hours to explore Barcelona, although 91.5 percent say they would like to return in the future.

A delicate balance must be struck in order to reduce congestion and protect the environment without harming the cruise industry

So, who are Barcelona's cruise ship passengers and why do they choose to visit? For Mike Williams, 67, from the UK, Barcelona wasn't the decisive factor when booking his trip, and the itinerary only afforded four hours to explore—just enough time to visit the Sagrada Família and take a walk along La Rambla. "We loved the church, the Gothic Quarter and the ease of walking," Mike said. "It was easy to get into the heart of the city and there was lots to see." Ian Jenkins, 48, also from the UK, had a similar experience. "We had more or less a full day in Barcelona," he recalled, explaining that he and his young family took a trip to Park Güell and spent the rest of the time exploring the old town. "The kids loved all the

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Environmental issues and congestion caused by cruise tourists are the two key problems faced by Barcelona's cruise industry

history, and we've been keen to come back ever since." Williams and Jenkins spent approximately €50 and €70 on their respective day trips to Barcelona, highlighting another issue. With accommodation, bars, restaurants and entertainment all taken care of on board, tourists from cruise liners provide little economic benefit to local businesses. Excursionist passengers spend an average of €53 per day, just one third of what an ordinary visitor would spend (€156). All things considered, the current situation is unsustainable. Effective regulation will require close collaboration between the industry’s many stakeholders—the port authority, local government, cruise ship companies, visitors and residents, to name a few. Not surprisingly, each stakeholder takes a different stance. Alfredo Serrano insisted that the CLIA is committed to promoting “sustainable, respectful, organised and high-quality tourism” in collaboration with the local authorities. He does not believe, however, that cruise operators are responsible for congestion. “Cruise companies plan their stops two years in advance,” he explained. This should allow for better control and organisation of the flow of visitors. Daniel Gonzalez Gomez, Operations Manager at Intercruises— the company that provides ground handling and port agency services to cruise ships in Barcelona—agrees with Serrano. While he acknowledges that crowds of tourists can be a problem, Gonzalez argues that cruise tourism is carefully scheduled. Still, to ensure a more even spread of visitors, he believes that cruise companies should schedule more calls during low season (December to March) and less during the rest of the year. When questioned about the environmental impact of the industry, Gonzalez struggled to explain what cruise companies are actually doing to promote sustainable practice. "The new ships coming to the city are up-to-date with the latest environmental regulations," he said, highlighting that their waste is recycled and that they now run on a lighter, less damaging fuel when docked. This still involves burning thousands of litres of fuel, however, to ensure that the facilities on board the respective ships can run as normal. The EU and other international organisations are now making steps to ensure that the ships have the ability to connect

to power sources onland when they are stationary. Serrano, meanwhile, is resistant to the idea of introducing further restrictions. He claimed that today's cruise ships are “modern and efficient” and comply with all international standards. “The companies that belong to CLIA take this commitment very seriously,” he said. Going forward, the industry shows no signs of slowing down. This year, 867 cruises are scheduled to stop in Barcelona, and there are plans for a new terminal to open in April, designed to accommodate a new class of green cruise ships operated by liquefied natural gas. On a positive note, Ada Colau and the Port Authority recently annouced that there will be a major reorganisation of the port by 2022. This will consolidate all ferry and cruise activity in the Moll Adossat area (where the cruise ships currently dock), distancing it from the city centre and freeing up the Drassanes and Barcelona docks. This will also limit the total number of ferry and cruise ship terminals to seven—one less than the current situation. Meanwhile, for many local residents congestion is the priority. Lambisto, for one, would like to see greater emphasis placed on 'creative tourism', encouraging visitors to spend time exploring different neighbourhoods, visiting independent shops and lesserknown attractions across the city and region. This could help to ease pressure on the city's infrastructure in the most overcrowded areas. The aim would be to achieve a more even spread of visitors and enable the economic benefits of the cruise industry to be felt more widely. More overnight stays and less ‘hop-on hop-off’ tourism would also benefit local businesses. In contrast to the daytripper, cruise ship passengers who stay overnight in the city spend an average of €202 per day. Spending more time in Barcelona allows for these passengers to get to know the city better, shop locally and visit areas away from the major tourist sights. The major attractions, however, are the very thing that people come to see, even if the real charm is found in the unique character of each neighbourhood. It is seemingly impossible to satisfy each stakeholder’s wish list, but a delicate balance must be struck in order to reduce congestion, promote local businesses and protect the environment without harming the cruise industry.

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SHOPPING

TAKE A SEAT

GOBI PUFF €125 KARE Consell de Cent 294 kareshop.com

CHAIR €340 SIT DOWN Mallorca 331 sitdown.com

SIT BACK AND RELAX IN STYLE

STOOL €79 COCO-MAT Balmes 229 coco-mat.com

HANGING CHAIR €129 MUNDO DE HAMACAS Josep Anselm Clavé 3 mundodehamacas.es

ROCKING CHAIR €950 EL RECIBIDOR Calàbria 85 elrecibidor.com

NATURAL REED ARMCHAIR €189 NATURA Diagonal 472 naturaselection.com

CUSHION €8.90 GRIS HOME Rosselló 220 grishome.com

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Photo by Productora Audiovisual

BRAZILIAN BEATS THE EVOLUTION OF BARCELONA’S SAMBA SCENE

By Sophie Heywood

ebruary means Carnival and Carnival means samba. A music and dance genre rooted in African traditions that developed amongst the slave communities of Rio de Janeiro in the early-20th century, samba has become a symbol of Brazilian culture around the world. In recent years, it has also become the rising star of Barcelona’s music and dance scene, spanning cultures and generations, and uniting people through its rich, syncopated rhythm and often voluptuous moves. It takes great technical skill to dance samba well. It involves fast synchronised movements of the hands, arms and hips; but the most important ingredient, according to Barcelona resident and samba aficionado Fernanda Accorsi, is passion. “Anybody can try it,” said Accorsi. “There are not just Brazilians in the city doing samba, but people of all ages, ethnicities, backgrounds and levels of experience, all of them dancing together in the rhythm.” Accorsi comes from an esteemed line of Brazilian samba musicians. Her father, João Manoel, was the first musician to bring the true samba sound to their countryside town of São José do Rio Preto, in the state of São Paolo. “In the Seventies, São José do Rio Preto was small and the new samba instruments hadn’t yet arrived. My father went to São Paolo to buy instruments and brought them back to our town,” remembered Accorsi. These

instruments included the surdo (a large bass drum), an older version of the tamborim (a small, round Brazilian frame drum of Portuguese and African origin) and the cuíca (a friction drum with an expansive pitch range). Her grandmother’s house became the primary meeting point for the town’s samba scene, hosting 24hour jam sessions led by her father’s band, Os Sambistas. Everyone gathered there to share their love of samba music, dance and life. That is when Accorsi’s passion for samba blossomed. Twelve years ago, when Accorsi first came to Barcelona, little or no samba scene existed. “No one had any money to pay musicians, so they played on the streets or in bars for free,” she recalled. Ramón Barau, from Sant Boi de Llobregat, has been teaching samba de gafieira—a ballroom version of samba, also known as samba carioca—in the city since 2009. A key figure in the local scene, he concurred: “We have had to work hard, without resources or sponsorship, to keep the samba flame alight.” Their hard work and determination seem to finally be coming to fruition. Several locations in the city, including Brazilian restaurant Rio D.O.C. (Sardenya 56) close to Parc de la Ciutadella, have become regular hosts of special performances and samba nights. The advantage of playing in restaurants is that samba culture is embodied not just in the music and complicated dance steps, but in the food, the drinks and the company of others.

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SAMBA

in the city

Photo by Productora Audiovisual

Photo by Brian Heinen

DANCE EMOTION Calàbria 253 A multi-disciplinary school that opened in 2013, Dance Emotion teaches a range of Brazilian dances, including lambazouk, samba de gafieira (danced in couples) and salsa. It specialises in Carnival samba (known as ‘Samba Río’), taught by the talented Luciana. Prices from €90 for a pack of ten classes. dancemotion.es

SAMBA BARCELONA La Salamandra, Burgos 55 A dance school led by Ana Nushu, who lives in San Sebastián and travels to Barcelona every few months to teach samba classes. The next workshop is on February 3rd and focuses on samba carioca. sambabarcelona.com

BAILONGU

Photo by Brian Heinen

Passatge d’Utset 11-13 At Bailongu, students can learn to dance a range of styles, from samba to Axé. A course of 15 classes—held every Wednesday from 6pm to 7pm—costs €152. bailongu.com

SPAI CARIOCA Mallorca 30, Sant Boi de Llobregat The samba de gafieira association, which hosts different types of classes from Tuesday to Friday. From €10 per hour. spaicarioca.com

Spai Carioca

“There are not just Brazilians in the city doing samba, but people of all ages, ethnicities and levels of experience” There are also live performances held every Saturday night at Grizzly 72 (Gran Via 586) by Samba Dos Amigos, and for just €2 you can enjoy the Sunday sessions with Soda Brazil Jam Session at Soda Acústic in Gràcia (Guilleries 6), where you can see musicians of all different nationalities come together to play Brazilian music. Just down the coast from Barcelona, Sitges hosts one of Spain’s most popular Carnival festivals every February where you can see samba dancing among the parades and street parties, and the annual Día de Brasil is celebrated each September at Parc del

Fòrum in Barcelona, offering a colourful introduction to the best of Brazilian culture. But if spectating is not enough, there are a growing number of studios offering classes and instruction. Its complex steps may seem intimidating at first, but “anybody can learn how to samba!” according to David Cascón, Director of Dance Emotion, a studio in the city. “Samba seems difficult but it really isn’t. We teach basic movements at the start for beginners to acquire a good foundation.” All you need is a desire to learn and a lot of energy. And once you’ve mastered the basics, Spai Carioca, located in the town of Sant Boi de Llobregat, offers professional training based on its own technical book of samba de gafieira. Established in 2010 by Ramón Barau, together with Luís Florião and Adriana D’Acri from Rio de Janeiro, Spai Carioca is the first official Brazilian dance and samba de gafieira association in Barcelona, and aims to develop samba as a leading dance genre. Barau discovered samba de gafieira by chance while visiting Rio de Janiero in 2001. In 2005, he met Luís Florião, who was president of Rio de Janeiro’s samba de gafieira association at the time, at a lambazouk festival in Europe. Florião asked Barau to become an official ambassador for samba de gafieira in Barcelona and offered to act as his mentor. Over the next seven years the two exchanged visits and training sessions before setting up Spai Carioca.

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Photo by Michael Mawson

Spai Carioca hosts an impressive range of activities, from regular dance classes—including samba de gafieira, salsa, zumba and capoeira—to monthly festivals. They also support local festivals, such as Barri Center and Vinyets-Molí Vell, giving samba performances, classes and selling their legendary caipirinhas. The pivotal mission of Spai Carioca, however, remains the promotion of samba. Everything that the school generates as income is reinvested in activities; Spai Carioca brings some of the best samba de gafieira professionals directly from Brazil to Barcelona to teach workshops and run training sessions. As a bonus, these visitors perform at the seasonal parties, the most important of which is the Spai Carioca Congress.

Samba is not just a dance; it’s become a way of talking, communicating and celebrating

Launched in 2013, the Spai Carioca Congress is an annual weekend, held at the end of November or start of December, packed full of classes led by international guest teachers, followed by gala dinners, live music, all-night parties and special shows where some of the very best in samba show off their expertise. One of those outstanding performers and renowned teachers at Spai Carioca is David Bosco, who has brought a unique and unmistakable samba style to the city. Known as ‘samsurf’, this radical style combines traditional samba de gafieira with movements similar to surfing. Bosco’s lucid, flowing movements on special ‘roller’ shoes are just one example of the originality and diversity that the congress displays. Samba is not just a dance; it’s become a way of talking, communicating and celebrating. Despite the growth of samba in Barcelona, the scene still relies largely on word of mouth—there is no formal guide or website that presents all the events taking place. “Every day there are places where samba is played live in Barcelona,” said Accorsi, who has become a trained teacher at Spai Carioca. “People come to classes to learn samba and many use what they have learnt to host their own performances and events across Barcelona. Some even return back to their home countries in Europe to share their love of the dance.” The international appeal of samba transcends boundaries and borders and thrives on the passion and energy of its ambassadors. “We used to be the only ones to produce events like the annual congress,” said Barau, “but now samba is gaining strength in other European countries and cities: France, Russia, Italy, the Netherlands, London.” It’s clear Barcelona’s samba community is ready to welcome everyone, all you have to do is join the party.

SITGES CARNIVAL In the home of samba, Rio de Janeiro, Carnival is the most eagerly anticipated event of the year. Every year, the city’s top samba schools parade the streets in a breathtaking spectacle featuring extravagant floats and thousands of dancers dressed in dazzling costumes. But Carnival fever is not limited to Brazil. Celebrated before the start of Lent, many countries have their own Carnival traditions and parties. One of Spain’s most popular Carnival celebrations takes place in Sitges, 40 kilometres south of Barcelona. Every February, the picturesque coastal town hosts a vibrant and flamboyant week-long party, which attracts around 250,000 revellers. Two spectacular parades are the main focus of the event: Sunday’s Rua de la Disbauxa and Tuesday’s Rue de l’Extermini feature 2,500 participants and 50 floats. As well as party-goers, Sitges Carnival welcomes some of Europe’s best drag acts, who all dress in black for the final parade on Shrove Tuesday (Mardi Gras) to mourn the end of Carnival. With plenty of children’s activities and bizarre traditions, such as the annual bed race, Carnival is a dynamic party bursting with colour and sensuality. The Sitges Carnival will take place from February 8th to 14th. carnavaldesitges.com

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music WHAT’S ALL THE FUSS ABOUT?

STEREOPHONICS. SALA APOLO. NOU DE LA RAMBLA 113. FEBRUARY 1ST & 2ND. It might come as a surprise to learn that after releasing 10 albums, more than 40 singles, and having won a Brit Award, Stereophonics have only ever had one UK number one single. Their 2005 hit ‘Dakota’ remains the only song to occupy the top spot, despite the success of anthems such as ‘Handbags and Gladrags’ or ‘Have a Nice Day’. In the 20 years since the band started out, Stereophonics have reached global highs but have also had some emotional lows, particularly following the death of childhood friend and former bandmate Stuart Cable in 2010. Their latest studio album, Scream Above the Sounds (2017), includes a heartbreaking tribute track, ‘Before Anyone Knew Our Name’, in which front man Kelly Jones speaks out to Stuart: ‘I miss you, man’. Having headlined some of the world’s biggest festivals, their 2018 tour sees Stereophonics play a series of smaller venues, including Sala Apolo in Barcelona—a rare opportunity to see Wales’ biggest rock band in an intimate setting.

HEARTS THAT STRAIN

JAKE BUGG. SALA APOLO. NOU DE LA RAMBLA 113. FEBRUARY 8TH. With his husky voice and lulling melodic guitar, Jake Bugg was selected from thousands of entrants to appear on the BBC Introducing stage, a showcase for the best upcoming young artists, at Glastonbury in 2011. Aged 17, the young singer-songwriter quickly gained national attention for his Dylan-like vibes—a mixture of folk and rock recorded retro-style with modern lyrics. His debut album Jake Bugg (2012) was met with huge acclaim and reached number one in the UK. Since then, he has followed a wandering path through pop and hip hop, working with famous names, such as Chad Smith of the Red Hot Chili Peppers, on his albums Shangri La (2013) and On My One (2016). Bugg’s current tour promotes his latest album, Hearts that Strain (2017), which sees the return of his raconteur style, with darker, country-esque tones and lyrics that reminisce about his upbringing on a Nottingham council estate.

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LA NIÑA DEL PUEBLO

INDIA MARTÍNEZ. SANT JORDI CLUB. PG. OLÍMPIC 5-7. FEBRUARY 17TH. India Martínez began her musical career in her hometown of Córdoba, performing flamenco in local cafes and earning herself the nickname ‘la niña del pueblo’. More than 25 years and 300,000 Spotify followers later, India Martínez has become one of Spain’s most popular artists. Her unique fusion of Hindu and Arabic influences, alongside her authentic Andalusian vocals, sets her apart from other flamenco singers. Her sixth album, Dual (2014), which featured collaborations with David Bisbal and Enrique Iglesias, reached number two in the Spanish charts. Two years later, Martínez released her much-anticipated studio album, Te cuento un secreto (2016), which went straight to number one. She will perform in Barcelona this month as one of five stops on her 2018 Spanish tour.

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music LIVE FOREVER

LIAM GALLAGHER. RAZZMATAZZ. PAMPLONA 88. FEBRUARY 24TH. One of Manchester’s most famous exports, Liam Gallagher hasn’t strayed far from the limelight since his golden days as the frontman of Oasis. Alongside brother Noel and schoolmates Paul Arthurs, Paul McGuigan and Tony McCarroll, Oasis shot to fame in 1994, pioneering the Britpop movement that defined the sound of the Nineties. Voted as the greatest frontman of all time by Q magazine in 2010, Gallagher’s attitude and unapologetically outspoken nature have seen him gain as much notoriety off the stage as on it. After the brothers famously fell out, causing Oasis to split in 2009, Liam spent three years headlining Beady Eye, an alt-rock outfit comprised of the remaining members. In 2016, Gallagher decided to embark on a career as a solo artist. His debut album, As You Were, became one of the most eagerly anticipated releases of 2017. Keen to steer clear of comparison to Oasis, Gallagher enlisted the help of renowned producers Greg Kurstin (Foo Fighters, Adele, Lily Allen) and Andrew Wyatt (Florence + The Machine) to update his sound, aligning it with the glossier finish of contemporary pop. Hear Gallagher’s raspy voice as he takes to the stage at Razzmatazz.

HARDWIRED TO SELF-DESTRUCT

METALLICA. PALAU SANT JORDI. PG. OLÍMPIC 5-7. FEBRUARY 7TH. One of the bestselling acts in American music history, Metallica was formed in 1981, when singer-guitarist James Hetfield answered drummer Lars Ulrich’s ad in The Recycler, a Los Angeles classified newspaper that also helped launch the careers of Guns N’ Roses and Mötley Crüe. Metallica’s ascent to stardom was relatively quick, driven by sheer effort, a rare musical chemistry between the four members and an ever-expanding fan base in the underground music community. Their fast tempos, instrumentals and aggressive musicianship made them one of the founding ‘big four’ bands of thrash metal, alongside Megadeth, Anthrax and Slayer. In 1983, they travelled to New York in a stolen U-Haul, replaced lead guitarist Dave Mustaine with Exodus shredder Kirk Hammett, and hit the studio to record their debut album, Kill ‘Em All. Since then, the band have released 10 studio albums, four live albums, a cover album, a collaboration album, 42 singles and more than 40 music videos. Despite a few 21st-century mishaps by the band—including their costly court battle with Napster and much-maligned 2003 album St. Anger, which failed to feature a single guitar solo—the power of Metallica live has remained consistently strong. Catch the luminaries of metal during their WorldWired tour, in which the band proves they’re still a force to be reckoned with.

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IN CONCERT

1st. Deacon Blue BARTS. Paral∙lel 62. 1st & 2nd. Stereophonics Sala Apolo. Nou de la Rambla 113. 3rd. Always Amy (Tribute to Amy Winehouse) Luz de Gas. Muntaner 246. 4th. The Strypes and Max Meser Sala Apolo. Nou de la Rambla 113. 7th. Metallica Palau Sant Jordi. Pg. Olímpic 5-7. 8th. Jake Bugg Sala Apolo. Nou de la Rambla 113. 9th. Queen Forever Tour Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88. 10th. Tierra Santa Sala Bikini. Diagonal 547. 11th. Jacob Forever Sala Bikini. Diagonal 547. 14th. DJ Deekline Sala Apolo. Nou de la Rambla 113. 16th. Ivan Smagghe This Side UP. Paral∙lel 37. 17th. India Martínez Sant Jordi Club. Pg. Olímpic 5-7. 20th. RavenEye Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88. 21st. Mando Diao Sala Apolo. Nou de la Rambla 113. 22nd. Rozalén Palau de la Música. Palau de la Música 4-6. 23rd. Els Amics de les Arts Gran Teatre del Liceu. La Rambla 51-59. 23rd. Jeremy Underground Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88. 24th. Liam Gallagher Razzmatazz. Pamplona 88. 25th. The Hunna Sala Bikini. Diagonal 547. 27th. The Surfing Magazines BeGood Club. Sancho de Ávila 78.

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art DECK THE WALLS

WiLLiaM MOrris and thE arts & craFts in grEat Britain. Mnac. PaLau naciOnaL, Parc dE MOntjuïc. untiL May 20th. Delicate leaves, blooming flowers and luscious fruits, the legacy of William Morris lives on in his universally recognised wallpaper patterns, which have adorned palaces, museums and homes since the 19th century. However, Morris’s talent extended far beyond his keen eye for pattern. Inspired by medievalism during his study of Classics at Oxford University, Morris became a proponent of the Arts and Crafts movement that thrived in Europe between 1880 and 1920. Resistant to contemporary mass industrialisation, this movement sought to reinstate traditional craftsmanship, using simple methods and drawing on romantic, medieval and folk imagery and styles. As one of Britain’s most prolific designers, his collections of wallpaper and printed textiles are accompanied by works of stained glass, floor coverings, furniture and embroidery, whilst the polymath also found time to become an accomplished poet, essayist and social activist. Opening on February 22nd, this exhibition will explore and evaluate the work of William Morris and his relevance to the Arts and Crafts movement, showcasing 300 pieces borrowed from British museums, including the Victoria and Albert Museum, Tate Britain and the National Portrait Gallery.

©Estate Brassaï Succession, Paris

IN THE SHADOWS

Brassaï. Fundación MaPFrE. diPutació 250. OPEning FEBruary 19th. Born in 1899 in Transylvania, Romania, Gyula Halász first discovered Paris at the age of five when he and his father lived there for a year. However, due to the First World War, it wasn’t until 1924 that he was able to return to the French capital and once again observe the characters that had fascinated him in his childhood. Going by the pseudonym of Brassaï—inspired by his hometown Brasov—he set about capturing the sombre and seedy inhabitants of Paris’ Montparnasse district. He wandered by night in the most deserted back streets, using a half-hour exposure with his Voigtlander 6.5 x 9cm camera to portray the lives of these once stimagatised Parisians—prostitutes, madams, transvestites and criminals. In 1933, he published the now famous book Paris de nuit (Paris by night), and Voluptés de Paris (Pleasures of Paris) two years later. Brassaï was inducted into the International Photography Hall of Fame and Museum in 1979. This exhibition presents the darker side of nighttime Paris through his lens.

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REVIEW EXHIBITIONS

IN A DIFFERENT LIGHT

OPENING MEAM Contemporary Figurative Art of the 21st Century With 1,000 works by 300 artists from five continents, this exhibition presents some of the most renowned contemporary figurative art—from paintings to sculptures—in every medium: oils, terracotta and even cake. Opening February 1st. Barra de Ferro 5.

Will Shank looks ahead to the city’s annual festival of lights, Llum BCN February 16th-18th

MUSEU CAN FRAMIS Pere Portabella - Cinema, Art and Politics As one of Spain’s leading filmmakers and political activists, Pere Portabella delved into avant-garde movements throughout his working life, sharing ideas and building networks amongst the artistic and political communities. This exhibition examines five different aspects of his work. Opening February 12th. Roc Boronat 116-126.

MONTANA GALLERY GR170 “Suburban Folk” Street artist GR170 presents his first solo exhibition, demonstrating his reflections on the post-contemporary urban aesthetic of the edge of the city. The local artist uses distinct forms and techniques to reveal a new understanding of urban art without losing the spirit of graffiti. Until February 10th. Comerç 6. PROJECTESD Pieter Vermeesch This Belgian artist uses murals to explore the flowing intersections of light, colour, time and space. His most recent works with marble continue this curious foray into the symmetry and harmony of elements. Until February 20th. Passatge Mercader 8. CAIXAFORUM ¡Agón! The competition in ancient Greece The history of ancient Greece is full of intense competition. This exhibition examines the competitive spirit through a selection of artefacts from the British Museum, including sculptures, coins, ceramics and jewels. Until February 18th. Avda. Francesc Ferrer i Guàrdia 6-8.

Photo courtesy of IAAC

LAST CHANCE

f you haven’t yet experienced the Llum BCN festival, you’re in for a treat. Taking place from February 16th to 18th, the seventh annual edition of this light festival will see some of Barcelona’s darkest winter nights illuminated by innovative installations in two dozen courtyards of the Ciutat Vella district. This year, for the first time, the illuminated route will also snake out of the Ciutat Vella district and into Poblenou. Coinciding with the festival of Santa Eulàlia—the city’s co-patron saint—Llum BCN will light up some of the most historic spaces of the old town. In a free and delightful experience organised by the Institut de cultura de Barcelona, the public can savour the beauty of many public and semi-public spaces, and interact with light installations by accomplished artists and Barcelona’s art, architecture and design students. Among the anticipated offerings this year is ‘Playball’, an installation by students of the master’s programme at the IAAC (Institute for Advanced Architecture of Catalunya), in which the public bounces suspended balls off each other, setting off a domino-effect of illumination. Festival-goers can also witness the facade of the Ajuntament building, in Plaça Sant Jaume, act as a canvas for creative video-mapping, in which the building seemingly melts, deconstructs and explodes to an accompanying musical score.

SALA PARÉS Memòria 140 anys Celebrating the gallery’s 140th anniversary, this exhibition pays tribute to works by its most famous artists. Dating from 1877 until 1988, the exhibition is divided into time periods that recount the evolution of style and form across the decades. Until February 13th. Petritxol 5.

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(24TH)

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SCIENCE AND CAPITALISM CONFERENCE A conference about modern-day capitalism versus basic human survival instincts. 6.30pm. Gran Via de les Corts Catalanes 491.

A pre-show party, with food, drinks and karaoke, to get fans in the mood before the heavy metal band play live in Barcelona on the 7th. 9pm. Hard Rock Cafe.

The talented Russian-born guitarist plays her moving Andalusian melodies. Basílica de Santa Maria del Pi. Until February 19th.

ECOLOGICAL VIDEOCONFERENCE British writer George Monbiot, known for his environmental and political activism, speaks about saving ecosystems from human intervention. 6.30pm. CCCB.

6METALLICA PARTY

TUE SDAY

5EKATERINA ZÁYTSEVA

RURAL ZOMBIES (15TH)

MONDAY

METALLICA (7TH)

MONUMENTAL CLUB (10TH)

WE DN ESDAY

SITGES CARNIVAL One of Europe’s biggest Carnival celebrations hits the streets of Sitges for a week of parties and parades. Sitges. Until February 14th.

See the ‘Lightning Bolt’ singersongwriter perform his latest album, Hearts that Strain (2017). 9pm. Sala Apolo.

8JAKE BUGG

FREE TOUR OF THE GOTHIC QUARTER Follow the green umbrella and learn about the history of Barcelona’s old town with Runner Bean Tours. 11am. La Rambla.

Welsh rock band Stereophonics take on Barcelona for two nights as part of their 2018 European tour. 9pm. Sala Apolo.

1STEREOPHONICS

T HURSDAY

A CHRISTMAS CAROL (30TH)

CARNAVAL DEL CRUÏLLA A brand new, two-day disco jazz music festival at the Hivernacle del Poble Espanyol celebrates Barcelona’s Carnival festivities. Poble Espanyol. Until February 10th.

Celebrating the co-patron saint of Barcelona, this annual festival focuses on children and parades. City centre. Until February 12th.

9FESTES DE SANTA EULÀLIA

RETROMOTO BARCELONA Motorheads travel from across the country for Barcelona’s annual motorbike festival. La Farga de L’Hospitalet. Until February 11th.

The third edition of the two-day food, artisan crafts and music festival takes place in the former bullring. La Monumental. Until February 11th.

10 MONUMENTAL CLUB

STEVEN WILSON The British pop rock musician performs his fifth studio album, To The Bone (2017). 9pm. Luz de Gas.

Listen to the much-loved songs of Amy Winehouse in this tribute to the late English singer-songwriter. 9pm. Luz de Gas.

Electronic instrument sensationalist Frank Wienk performs his debut EP, Private Matter Previously Unavailable, Pt. 1 (2017). 8.30pm. Sala Apolo. FLAMENCO FRIDAYS Authentic Spanish flamenco at JazzSí Club every Friday. 8.45pm. JazzSí Club.

3ALWAYS AMY

SAT URDAY

2BINKBEATS

FRIDAY

JACOB FOREVER Latin Grammy nominee Jacob Forever mixes Latin music, reggae and urban fusion in his latest album, Invicto (2017). 9pm. Sala Bikini.

Starting at the Arc de Triomf, the 21-kilometre race attracts runners from all over the world. 8.45am. City centre.

11 BARCELONA HALF MARATHON

PHASMA See José María Sicilia’s new abstract exhibition ‘Phasma’, which uses wax to explore the relationship between light and space. Galeria Joan Prats. Until March 23rd.

Visit Two Market’s monthly secondhand market, where everything is just €1. 10am. L’Ovella Negra del Poblenou.

4TODO A €1

SUN DAY

LIAM GALLAGHER (24TH)

FEBRUARY 2018

THIS MONTH

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PAINT AND WINE NIGHT With a glass in one hand and a paintbrush in the other, follow step-by-step instructions to create your own masterpiece at this hip art studio in the Eixample. 7pm. Arte Bar, Roger de Flor 135.

JOAN CHAMORRO After a year and a half of weekly performances at Jamboree, don’t miss the musician’s final jazz, soul and bossa nova session. 8pm. Jamboree.

4YFN This international business networking event allows startups, investors and corporations to exchange ideas and discuss growth and upcoming trends within the startup sector. Fira Barcelona Montjuïc. Until February 28th.

These weekly classes are open to both beginners and experts who want to learn the peaceful techniques of meditation. 6pm. Centro de Meditacion Kadampa Mahakaruna, Girona 102.

After a 32-year absence, Charles Gounod’s lyrical production of Romeo and Juliet returns to the Liceu under the direction of Josep Pons, who sets it during the American Civil War. 8pm. Gran Teatre del Liceu.

The world’s biggest mobile industry event takes over Barcelona. Fira Barcelona - Gran Via. Until March 1st.

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27 ROMEO AND JULIET

JEREMY UNDERGROUND (23RD)

JEREMY UNDERGROUND Following his sell-out success in November of last year, French DJ Jeremy Underground returns to perform a disco funk session. 11pm. Razzmatazz.

DARWIN'S NIGHTMARE A screening of the 2004 documentary, exploring sustainability from local and global viewpoints. 6.30pm. CCCB.

THE HUNNA AND COASTS The British indie rock band from Hertfordshire tour their latest studio album, 100 (2017). 9pm. Sala Bikini.

DOCUMENTARY WORKSHOP A half-day workshop on producing documentaries about the Anthropocene, Earth's most recent geologic time period. MACBA. Until March 10th.

ROMEO AND JULIET (27TH)

Young Norweigan star Vilde Frang performs some of Beethoven’s most beautiful pieces. 11am. L'Auditori.

25 BEETHOVEN VIOLIN CONCERT

VILDE FRANG (25TH)

Oasis legend tours his debut solo album, As You Were (2017). 9pm. Razzmatazz.

24 LIAM GALLAGHER

POETRY SLAM In this monthly event, poetry aficionados take to the stage to recite their original work. 6pm. CCCB.

Burger Records brings some of the finest US garage rock artists to Barcelona for a one-day festival. 5pm. Sala Apolo.

17 18 BURGER INVASION MUSIC FEST PHOTO

FOR MORE INFORMATION, VISIT OUR WEBSITE BARCELONA-METROPOLITAN.COM

BARCELONA GUITAR TRIO (28TH)

International bodypainter Filippo ioco opens his Barcelona studio and gallery with a self-titled exhibition. 7pm. Llacuna 45.

23 GALLERY OPENING

AND CRAFTS An exhibition exploring the Arts and Crafts movement in Britain. MNAC. Until May 20th.

22 WILLIAM MORRIS & THE ARTS

LLUM BCN This annual festival of light transforms Ciutat Vella into a dazzling beacon of brilliance. City centre. Until February 18th.

NATALIA LAFOURCADE See the Mexican singer-songwriter, who has captured hearts all over the world, perform her latest album, Musas (2017). 9pm. Sala Apolo.

GG AT JAMBOREE Combining their Puerto Rican and Catalan roots, the neo-soul vocal duo of Gilmarí Gerena and Gerson Gelabert present their latest EP, Contigo (2017). 8pm. Jamboree.

The fourth edition of this independent underground music festival showcases alternative music trends. Fabra i Coats. Until February 17th.

Watch some of Disney’s best-loved characters come to life on the ice in ‘Un Mundo Màgico’. Palau Sant Jordi. Until February 18th.

Rachel Arieff performs her onewoman show ‘Sueños Americanos’ every Wednesday, featuring a hilariously uncensored story about the young Donald Trump. BARTS. Until March 7th.

16 FESTIVAL CARA•B

15 DISNEY ON ICE

14 SUEÑOS AMERICANOS

26 MOBILE WORLD CONGRESS

FOOD TOUR Discover the hidden culinary gems of the Gothic Quarter in The Barcelona Taste's 3-hour tour. 7pm. Radas 12.

THE SPANISH CIVIL WAR An exhibition revealing the previously lost photos of Spanish Republican Francesc Boix, who also presented photographs that played a role in the conviction of Nazi war criminals. Centre Cívic Pati Llimona. Until March 19th.

McKenzie Wark discusses his most recent essay ‘Molecular Red: Theory for The Anthropocene’ and the threats surrounding climate change. 6.30pm. CCCB.

BRASSAÏ An exhibition exploring the work of one of the most influential photographers of the 20th century, who captured Paris by day and night. Fundación Mapfre. Until May 5th.

20 THE LOST PHOTOGRAPHS OF

BARCELONA HALF MARATHON (11TH)

13 PHOTO

19 ANTHROPOCENE LECTURE

12 PHOTO

misc JUST DANCE

Juste deBOut. Barts. paral∙lel 62. FeBruary16th-17th. Featuring popping, locking, house, hip hop and experimental, Juste Debout is an annual international street dance competition, which aims to showcase the best talent from across the world. Created in 2002 by French dancer and choreographer Bruce Ykanji, this world tour sees competitors come together in various cities across Europe, Asia and South America. A team of judges selects the best talents in each category, with the winners qualifying for the world finals, to be held on March 4th in Paris. The event kicks off with open workshops on February 16th, followed by the battles on the 17th. Registrations for the Barcelona competition are open online until February 16th, with on-site registrations possible on the day. If the spotlight isn’t for you, spectators can also watch the dance-offs from the stands. Tickets cost €20 for adults and €10 for children.

THE DEEP BLUE

Oceans, the last wild territOry. Museu Blau. leOnardO da Vinci 4-6. until septeMBer 14th. Documentary film Oceans (2009) is the inspiration behind this exhibition at the Museu Blau. Visitors are plunged into submarine life with 480 hours of unpublished footage from the French documentary, which has been described as ‘the greatest testimony of the seabed ever filmed’. Directed by Jacques Perrin and Jacques Cluzaud, the film required 75 sea expeditions, 500 people and €50 million in funding across seven years; the result of which is an incredible snapshot of the ocean’s deepest depths. The exhibition features a circuit of 14 high-definition screens and a large curved screen that portray life-size marine habitats, along with a selection of 3D images viewed through special glasses. Interactive displays explain the workings of the five oceans, with a children’s activity area for younger explorers. General admission is €6.50.

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SKATE INTO SONG

disney On ice: un MundO MágicO. palau sant JOrdi. pg. OlíMpic 5-7. FeBruary 15th-18th. When Walt Disney created the character of Mickey Mouse in 1928, he probably didn’t imagine the mouse skating on an ice rink in Barcelona a century later. This month, Disney on Ice is back to present Un Mundo Mágico, a 90-minute whirlwind of professional ice skaters bringing Disney’s best-loved characters to life. According to producer Kenneth Feld, the show “connects classic and new Disney stories”, featuring a range of favourites—from the recent phenomenon Frozen (2013), to timeless classics Peter Pan (1953), The Little Mermaid (1989) and The Lion King (1994). Produced by family-run Feld entertainment, a travelling circus turned live show production company, the family first approached Disney about doing a show on ice in 1980, and now produces over 5,000 shows per year.

KNOW THE SCORE

star wars sOundtracK. l’auditOri. lepant 150. FeBruary 18th. Hollywood blockbusters wouldn’t be the same without their genius soundtracks: the wonder of Superman, the dreadful terror of Jaws and the forces of good and evil in Star Wars, all owe a lot to their momentous music. Behind many of the most famous scores is the American composer John Williams, whose 60-year career has earned him 23 Grammy Awards, seven BAFTA Film Awards and four Golden Globes—making him second only to Walt Disney as the industry’s most nominated individual. This month, the Barcelona Municipal Band—which was founded by the city council back in 1886 and has called l’Auditori home since 2007—will perform a selection of Williams’s immense filmographic repertoire live, in celebration of the acclaimed composer.

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CREATE AND COLLABORATE FOUR YEARS ON FROM THE FIRST EDITION, ESTEBAN REDOLFI, DIRECTOR OF 4YFN, TAKES STOCK OF PROGRESS By Carol Moran

here’s a saying in Silicon Valley that if your startup survives its first four years, then you could be on to something. That was the inspiration behind the name given to the startup business platform associated with the Mobile World Capital Foundation, ‘4 Years From Now’ (4YFN). The international network enables startups, investors and corporations to connect and launch new ventures together. The fifth edition of the event will take place this month alongside the Mobile World Congress (MWC). We spoke to the current director, Esteban Redolfi, at the 4YFN offices to find out how the project is doing four years on from its first edition. “This simple idea started with an event attended by 2,000 people, with some content, some speakers and a couple of projects showcased,” recalled Redolfi. With the world’s technology companies focused on the city during the Mobile World Congress, it seemed sensible to leverage that. And so, 4YFN became an annual complementary event running alongside the MWC. “We have now exceeded our expectations. Last year 20,000 people from more than 136 countries, and more than 700 startups attended, coming to meet with each other and exchange ideas.” Originally from Córdoba, Argentina, Redolfi came to Barcelona

to study corporate communication. He fell in love with the city and has now been here for 17 years. Coming from an industrial, chaotic South American city, where “everyone is an entrepreneur of everyday life”, Redolfi considers entrepreneurship to run in his blood. “My parents are architects and have started many businesses. They showed me what it is like to chase your dreams and follow your ideas through until the very end. I think that I got this sense of ‘I need to create something’ from them,” he mused. “For me, an entrepreneur is someone who never stops creating.” “My parents were classic entrepreneurs. They were not doing the same as today’s startups,” said Redolfi. So what is the difference? Is ‘startup’ simply a buzzword? Redolfi explained his definition: “There are two or three elements that I would say are completely different from other types of businesses. One is the element of technology that makes businesses scalable like never before...though that does not depend on the people themselves, but the moment we are living in.” He went on to describe the other two elements: no fear of failure—if at first you don’t succeed, try again—and constant collaboration. When Redolfi joined the Mobile World Capital Foundation, Barcelona’s startup ecosystem was in its infancy. Founded by Aleix

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The Very Present Future is a series of interviews spearheaded by videographer Milo de Prieto. Metropolitan has teamed up with Milo to interview interesting thinkers and doers from all walks of life, all of whom have had a positive influence on the city in some way. Visit our website to watch the accompanying video to this interview.

Valls—the then director of entrepreneurship within the foundation, and supported by Adrià Batlle—4YFN was born of the need to create a community that connects Barcelona entrepreneurs with the rest of the world. The idea evolved through constant conversation with industry stakeholders. “We asked: ‘What do you need?’,” said Redolfi, “‘What can we create for you?’, ‘What do you think makes sense?’” With industry input, what started out as a music festival, soon evolved into a more business-focused event. “We started this idea of connecting startups—which was a concept that was not yet well-known in this part of the world— with corporations and investors. We felt that these entrepreneurs needed resources: not only money, but contacts, knowledge and talent. So, we created this platform where they could meet face-toface, talk about their problems, and exchange ideas and resources,” explained Redolfi. “That is how 4YFN was conceived, and that is what we think we have accomplished so far.” During that time, Barcelona’s startup scene has prospered and was recently ranked Europe’s fifth biggest hub. In a tough climate, this is in no small part due to the support networks that have developed in the city. Redolfi reflected on the difficulties faced by those starting out: “Despite the apparent glamour surrounding

the startup world, it’s extremely hard work. It’s tremendously cruel, and there is little space for mistakes,” he said, “so having an ecosystem that is well connected is vital for people not to lose their inspiration.” The community encourages entrepreneurs to reach out for help, to reinvent themselves, and to keep trying until they succeed. “This is what is happening in Barcelona; this is one of the biggest changes in recent years.” Based in the futuristic Media-TIC building located at the heart of the 22@ district, the evolution of 4YFN has continued as Barcelona’s startup ecosystem has blossomed all around. “4YFN started off with some wise people describing what a startup hub should be, and right now it’s more about a personal conversation between 20,000 people from around the world, through different activities,” explained Redolfi. “We have meet the press activities, meet the investor, mentoring sessions, panels, workshops, a pitching area, awards...in the end it’s not about me telling you what to do, it’s more about listening to each other and finding a middle ground where we can collaborate.” As well as multiplying in size, the event has seen a marked change in the range of people attending—corporations, investors, venture capitalists, professional associations, city councils and many more—all on the lookout for the next big thing and how it might affect their industry. “Right now, it is not only about the startups,” Redolfi reflected. “I think the concept of startups has got wider and bigger,” he said, describing how the spirit of startups has inspired projects within large corporations and public entities. “I like to think of this spirit as a very specialised, high performance task force. Wherever you find it, they have taken this spirit from the startup industry.” So, what’s the next step? “Being an entrepreneur means never stopping; you have created something, it works, but now you need to make it bigger, wider and more meaningful.” For Redolfi and the Mobile World Capital Foundation, that means getting everyone involved—not just entrepreneurs, but corporations, small and medium-sized enterprises (SMEs), scientists, startups, professional associations, and even the education system—to help “make this part of Europe more innovative” and encourage a collaborative approach to problem-solving. This ambitious new platform—separate from 4YFN—will gather together all stakeholders involved in a given industry to contemplate the biggest problems that their industry faces. “Everyone will put their ideas on the table to look for the best solutions,” said Redolfi, explaining that because of the networks that 4YFN have built around the world, an inclusive, collaborative approach that involves all industry agents will be much greater than the sum of its parts. And it doesn’t stop there. The platform is not just about collaborative thinking, but also following an idea through to execution: “Normally there is not a direct solution for a problem... that’s why we have created a lab. We will pilot the different solutions until we find the perfect match.” The idea is to incorporate the startup spirit of innovation, creation and iteration across society, particularly in sectors that are reluctant to embrace technology. At a personal level, enabling this industry-wide collaboration is Redolfi’s key objective for the near future. “Getting passionate people from different places to connect and work together to create something new; that is what I would say would be my biggest ambition for the next couple of years.” For now, he is quite content with what they have achieved. “The thing that I am most proud of is the possibility to bring Barcelona to the world,” Redolfi beamed. “You can sense the vibe of very talented people here in every area. You can see it in gastronomy, in tourism, in technology, design—just name it. I am completely in love with the city, and I have this enormous honour of presenting it to the world. That is why this is the best job I have ever had.”

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PHOTO ESSAY

MANâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S BEST FRIEND KATY PALMER CAPTURES THE INTRIGUING RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN DOG AND OWNER

Vic and Daniel

Clara and Jordi

Andres and Rubio

Rina and Luna

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n the few months that I have been living in Barcelona, I’ve met many foreign residents with hilarious, complex and impressive tales of relocating with their pets. I’m not a dog owner myself, but I can see how it would be comforting to bring something familiar—and, above all, loyal—with you when you move to a new city. The lengths people go to in order to get their pets into the country would melt any heart. I think it’s fun to pinpoint the way people start to resemble their dogs, or vice versa, whether in their physical appearance or their personality. These snaps introduce some such couples in their favourite walking spots around town. Follow @katyrosepalmer on Instagram for more pet portraits.

Kiku, Rocko, Janna and Lina

Lucille and Luba

Lauren and Lola

Adriana and Hiro 41

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WORKING LIFE

startup of the month

SOCIAL COIN

IVAN CABALLERO, 41, CEO, SOCIAL COIN By Natalie Donback I found out that I was going to be a dad and that I had to close my business all in the same afternoon. It was a Friday and I was going through emails when I received a phone call from our main client. They were filing for bankruptcy and wouldn’t be able to pay what they owed us. One hour later, when I was still struggling to absorb that information, my wife called to tell me she was pregnant. This unexpected turn of events got me thinking about what I was actually doing in life and my responsibility to the world. I thought about what we’re leaving for future generations and came to the conclusion that the world needs more kindness. That is where the idea for social coin came from—a physical coin based on a pay it forward economy. The first coins started as an experiment with my wife and 10 university students. Each coin represents an act of kindness; when you help someone, you also give them a coin. That person, in turn, has to do something nice for someone else and pass on the coin. The idea took off and quickly became a social movement. In six months, the coins had generated more than 200,000 acts of kindness in 20 countries.

Social coin’s mission is to make the world a better place. Our first experiment made us realise that there was a demand for a tool to help people do good. Since then, we have been working on technology to make it easier for citizens to address the most important issues in their community. Our main product today is Citibeats, a platform developed to help governments better understand and respond to citizens’ concerns. It uses artificial intelligence (AI) to analyse any natural language data source, such as a Facebook post or tweet, by identifying keywords and hashtags in order to capture issues relating to a specific city. It then creates a graph of these concerns and displays them according to their level of importance, which helps to prioritise solutions. The technology can be applied in a lot of ways, such as informing government response after a natural disaster. This summer we did an experiment in several Japanese cities right after an earthquake. We collected data relating to the issues citizens were experiencing. In Akita, we saw that people started to run out of food after three days, as roads were cut off. The government then took action to create storage spaces for basic supplies, such as water and rice. In Fukuoka, on the other hand, we saw that hospitals filled up quickly and needed more capacity. We’re also developing an app for citizens called Deeds. This will evaluate the most impactful actions you can take to help your community. Once an action is performed, our system will rate the impact that you’re having and give you points that can be transformed into a cryptocurrency—more points will be assigned to issues that need to be solved urgently. Our goal is for Citibeats and Deeds to work in tandem. The biggest challenges are almost always the same for any startup: finding the right team and adequate funding. These types of products take a very long time to develop and years can go by before they can be monetised. In my experience, entrepreneurs with a purpose or social mission are more resilient.

GET INSPIRED... 4YFN

STARTUP GRIND

MOBILE WORLD CONGRESS

Fira Barcelona - Montjuïc. February 26th-28th. This event provides a business platform for startups within the MWC 2018. It connects entrepreneurs and startups with investors and experts to encourage collaboration and launch new ventures. Visitors can attend technical abilities workshops, congresses, community outreaches and open innovation programmes to propel their skills and knowledge in an effort to encourage and provide new ways for startups to do business. 4yfn.com

Mobile World Centre. February 6th. 6.30pm. This month, the Grind hosts the head of data strategy at Dow Jones, Ingrid Verschuren, who will share her expertise in growing professional information business (PIB), and overseeing content and data collections. Her previous roles have extended her knowledge to global content strategy and operations, in addition to leading global research teams. As usual, guests can enjoy the keynote speech, followed by a fireside chat and networking. startupgrind.com

Fira Barcelona - Gran Via. February 26th-March 1st. The world’s largest gathering of the mobile industry returns to Barcelona, aimed at creating a better future through the mobile communications revolution. More than 108,000 mobile professionals are expected to participate in four days of networking, exhibiting and exchanging ideas, where guests can create their own agenda, tailored to their specific interests. mobileworldcongress.com

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WORKING LIFE

Originally from Bath, England, Sam Purnell moved to Barcelona with his girlfriend in 2016 to teach English, learn a bit of Spanish and experience living in a different country. Although the original plan was to stay for just six months, two years later, Sam has settled in Barcelona and has fallen in love with teaching. He fills his schedule with a mix of incompany classes, extracurricular lessons in schools, private classes and kids’ summer camps.

Sam pictured with student Queralt

A DAY IN THE LIFE SAM PURNELL, 25, UK, ENGLISH TEACHER 7.30AM I usually get up around half seven. I’m not a morning person but I find a big breakfast helps set me up for the day. Today, it’s a bowl of granola, yoghurt and fruit with a cup of English breakfast tea. 9AM Wednesday mornings begin with a two-hour class at La Sedeta, a public school close to the Sagrada Família. I teach this class through a company called Kiddo (kiddobarcelona.com) and it takes place during school hours, so the children get a break from their normal lessons. This means they are always pretty excitable. Today I planned a lesson based on hobbies and interests. I try to make the classes as fun and dynamic as possible; after covering grammar and vocabulary, we learnt a song and did a role-play activity. Every day is different, however, and some mornings start with in-company classes in and around Barcelona. 11.15AM Next, I teach a private class in the Eixample. My student, Queralt, is a lawyer at her family’s law firm, Bufete Córdoba Roda, and our class takes place in the office. Queralt’s main aim is to improve her speaking skills. Over the past year and a half, we have become good friends, so teaching her doesn’t feel like work at all. Plus, there’s normally a bocadillo waiting for me when I arrive, which is much appreciated—spending the morning with kids definitely works up an appetite! 2PM I head back to La Sedeta for a lunchtime class with a group of seven and eight-year-old boys. I’ve been teaching them for around 18 months, so I can easily tailor the class to their specific needs. I plan lots of games and fun activities because it’s a very energetic group. As it’s a lunchtime class, I make an extra effort to ensure the class is engaging. 3.30PM I hop on a bus to El Carmel, where I teach a private class to two 13-yearolds at their home.

4.30PM It’s time to head to my next class at Àngels Garriga, a school that is just a five-minute walk from my last class. One thing I’ve learnt over the past two years is to arrange my schedule carefully, making sure I have blocks of classes in the same area of the city. When I first arrived, I didn’t do this and spent a lot of time travelling. At Àngels Garriga, I teach a group of five and six-year-olds. I love teaching this age group, as it’s just as much about performing as it is teaching. It’s an opportunity to sing, dance and do silly voices that wouldn’t be acceptable in any other job. 6PM My last class of the day. It’s with the same family that I taught earlier. First it’s an hour with the youngest child, Oriol, and his friend. Then I teach his sister, Martina, 16, for an hour and a half. I choose advanced activities based on more complex topics because she has a very high level for her age. After a day of teaching younger kids, it’s refreshing to discuss some more mature subjects. 8.30PM Another bus journey from El Carmel back to my flat in Gràcia. It’s a very pleasant ride with views of Tibidabo and Park Güell. It’s nice to have some time to reflect after a busy day of teaching. 9PM I get home around nine, which is pretty normal for me. I return home to a delicious vegetarian meal cooked by my girlfriend. After dinner, we usually wind down with some Netflix and a cup of tea. We’re watching the latest season of Black Mirror, which is fantastic, but can be a bit intense right before bed. 11.30PM I get into bed and catch up on some news on my phone or read a few pages on my Kindle. 12AM Lights out.

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TRAVEL

CARCASSONNE A FORTIFIED CITY UNLIKE ANY OTHER IN EUROPE By Rachel Huffman

city in southern France imbued with the spirit of the past, Carcassonne boasts 2,500 years of history and two UNESCO World Heritage sites. The first, the 240-kilometre-long Canal du Midi, is the work of engineer Pierre-Paul Riquet and was excavated in the 17th century to realise the impossible dream of linking the Atlantic and the Mediterranean. Once used to transport goods and people, the canal is now primarily frequented by boaters and tourists. Carcassonne Croisières (carcassonne-navigationcroisiere.com) offers eight cruises from the Port de Carcassonne, from city cruises to dinner cruises. Peacefully drifting down the canal, under the platanes (French plane trees

symbolic of socialising), you’ll enjoy the picturesque landscape and panoramic views of the Cité de Carcassonne, the city’s second UNESCO World Heritage site. Perched on a hill on the right bank of the Aude river, overlooking the town of Carcassonne, the medieval citadel is protected by threekilometre-long, double surrounding walls, interspersed by 52 towers. A fortified city unlike any other in Europe, on account of its size and its state of preservation, the Cité de Carcassonne has seen the Romans, Visigoths, Saracens, Franks and Crusaders all at its doorstep. While you can explore between the two rows of the city walls, it’s also free to walk on top of the outer rampart, which was built on the order of King Louis IX. Through arrow slits and in between the slanted, vermillion and icy blue slate roofs of the brick towers—which some refer to as ‘witch hat roofs’—are views of the surrounding vineyards. The scent of pine shrubs, fresh rosemary and thyme, and sweet flowers is carried on the cool winds that roll off the mountains further afield. Known as the ‘garrigue’, it is the signature scent of the south of France. The Basilica of Saints Nazarius and Celsus is a Roman Catholic church located within the city walls, situated next to the citadel’s modernised amphitheatre. Famed for its magnificent stained glass windows, the site is now a national monument and is worth a peek inside. The central stained glass window of the choir, dating from 1280, is one of the oldest in the south of France. Together with the upper trefoil windows (the Resurrection of Jesus and the Resurrection of the dead), it depicts the life of Christ.

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The ‘new town’ of Carcassonne is rather small and sleepy. It has a pleasant central square dominated by a huge fountain, and a few nice shops and restaurants, but the star here is the citadel. If you’re looking for more to do in the area, the LanguedocRoussillon region is currently one of the world’s most interesting wine-making regions. It comprises some 290,000 hectares of vines, roughly 2,800 producers, and its annual average production equates to 2,133 million bottles of wine. Although Languedoc-Roussillon’s heritage has often been overlooked in the modern era, due to its emphasis on quantity rather than quality, the past 20 years have seen a new focus on quality. Carcassonne is an ideal base for exploring two of the region’s finest wine-growing areas: the Minervois AOC to the north and the rugged Corbières AOC to the south. The red wines of Minervois are produced from Carignan, Grenache, Lledoner Pelut, Mourvèdre and Syrah grapes, while Corbières is the region’s largest AOC (appellation d’origine contrôlée, or protected designation of origin), where red wine accounts for 95 percent of its production. Due to its size and geography, Corbières encompasses an enormous variety of soil types and microclimates, and its wines tend to be as varied as the land. Vin en Vacances (vinenvacances.com) has daily wine and food tours that allow you to taste the diverse wines made here with a friendly wine expert by your side. Its one-day vineyard tours include visits to independent, family-run wineries, all of which have sustainable farming at the heart of their operation. Or you can arrange for a private tasting, with or without food, in the comfort of your holiday home. For a more indulgent experience, Cocoa & Grapes (cocoaandgrapes. com) pairs local fine wines with exquisite handmade chocolates. You’ll be able to savour both as your guide tells fascinating stories about the history of Carcassonne. The four-hour walking and tasting tour takes place in the Bastide Saint-Louis area of the new town and costs €60 per person.

THE LEGEND OF LADY CARCAS On the citadel’s drawbridge, a replica of Lady Carcas’s bust welcomes visitors. The original, dating from the 16th century, is preserved inside. Legend has it that in the eighth century, during the wars between Christians and Muslims in the south-west of Europe, Charlemagne’s army came to the gates of Carcassonne to reconquer the city for the Franks. A Saracen princess named Carcas, who ruled the knights of the city after the death of her husband, led a five-year siege against the invaders. Early in the sixth year, when food and water were running out, Lady Carcas fed one of the last remaining pigs a sack of wheat and threw it from the highest tower of the city walls. Led to believe that the city’s inhabitants had so much food that they could afford to waste a pig like that—and so could maintain a stronghold over the city for the foreseeable future—Charlemagne lifted the siege. Overjoyed by her plan’s success, Lady Carcas ordered the villagers to sound all the bells in the city. One of Charlemagne’s retreating men exclaimed, “Carcas sonne!” (“Carcas sounds”), and so the city was named. Although a charming tale, historically it can’t be true. The antagonist, Charlemagne, could not have sent his army to besiege Carcassonne, as his father, Pepin the Short, had already taken the city from the Saracens prior to his reign.

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Hotel de la Cité Carcassonne

WHERE TO STAY

L’ÉCHAPPÉE BELLE (lechappeebelle.co.uk) is a bed and breakfast inside the citadel—just one of 50 permanent residence households within the ancient city walls.

HOTEL DE LA CITÉ CARCASSONNE (cite-hotels.com) is a pictureperfect, five-star hotel, within the city walls, that resembles a medieval château and features lush gardens and an outdoor pool with views of the basilica. Find true relaxation on your vacation during a signature treatment at the hotel’s Cinq Mondes Spa.

O’VINEYARDS (ovineyards.com) is a boutique hotel run by enthusiastic hosts Joe and Liz O’Connell, who are both amazing cooks. A 20-minute drive from the Cité de Carcassonne, it is surrounded by grapevines, which guests are free to wander through on their own. O’Vineyards also offers guided winery visits, including the O’Winemaker Experience (€249/person), in which participants learn the seasonal art of winemaking, create their own label, receive a gift box of three local wines and feast on a five-course meal with an open wine bar.

WHERE TO EAT LE JARDIN EN VILLE (lejardinenville.fr) serves fresh, Frenchstyle cuisine. Its menu is dictated by seasonal produce, and it grows its own strawberries, raspberries, peas and tomatoes; all other main ingredients are procured from local vegetable farmers. The interesting retro charm of the restaurant, garden and rooftop terrace carries through to Le Jardin en Ville’s concept store, which sells metal furniture, quirky decorations and art. L’ESCARGOT (restaurant-lescargot.com), located inside the citadel, offers modern recipes and an informal atmosphere. Its tapas are tasty, but it also has set menus for €16 and €25. LA BARBACANE (restaurants.accorhotels.com) serves haute cuisine—every dish on the menu needs a two-line description—and is the only Michelin-starred restaurant in Carcassone, with chef Jérôme Ryon at the helm. Part of Hotel de la Cité Carcassonne, the Gothic interior is elegant and provides the perfect setting to try the duck foie gras (one of the best in town) and grilled royal sea bream, garnished with turnip and chicory, among other delicious dishes.

Restaurant Comte Roger

RESTAURANT COMTE ROGER (comteroger.com) is a contemporary restaurant inside the citadel with a tree-lined terrace. Its cassoulet, made from a family recipe with pork, duck leg and white beans, is outstanding. A rich, slow-cooked casserole originating in the area of Languedoc, cassoulet is a deceptively humble mess of meat and beans, which often comes under the modish heading of ‘peasant fare’.

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A NTO NI O S E G UR A IMMIGRATION EXPERTS

ANTONIO SEGURA ABOGADOS & GESTORES is a well known law firm specialising in immigration law. The firm has been practicing for over 20 years, and is regarded as one of the best immigration law offices in Barcelona. We provide different legal services including obtaining NIE numbers, student cards, work permits, and residency in Spain.

Rambla Catalunya 43, ppal. 1, Barcelona 08007 T. +34 93 215 8077 abogados@antoniosegura.es www.segura-abogados.com

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SIGNATURE BY A3 is an art deco cocktail bar and coffee lab. We have over 70 different cocktails, created with the best premium liquors and distillates. We specialise in coffee and tea infusions. Come and try our exclusive herbal bouquet and wildflowers blend!

Quote ‘Metropolitan’ for 15% off any order. Calle Marià Cubí 180 | 08021 Barcelona | T. 699 771 040 askanas.abgaryan@gmail.com | Instagram - signaturebya3 | www.signaturebya3.com

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SANT MIQUEL D’OLÈRDOLA

Photo by Angela Llop

DAY TRIP

AN IBERIAN SETTLEMENT THAT REVEALS THE REGION’S ANCIENT ROOTS By Paul Cannon

his month we head to the vine-peppered foothills of the Alt Penedès and an ancient Iberian fortress with over 4,000 years of history. The archaeological site at Olèrdola is one of the most impressive pre-Roman settlements in Catalunya. Sitting on top of slanting limestone bluffs, some 10 kilometres south of Vilafranca del Penedès, the ancient settlement stands in the midst of one of Europe’s oldest wine-producing regions. Gaping precipices surround it on every side, affording impressive views of the Penedès plain looking north towards Montserrat, and south-east across the Garraf massif. These formidable natural defences attracted Olèrdola’s first major civilisation, an Iberian Iron Age tribe called the Cesetani, who were possibly the first people to sow grapes in the region, 2,500 years ago. Between the fifth and fourth centuries BC, they built a walled oppidum here, where they lived in rectangular stone huts. They produced ceramics influenced by commerce with the seafaring Phoenicians and Greeks, who had established trading ports on the Empordà coast. You can still see the original walls of the fort from this period, as well as dwellings with silos, irrigation canals and huge water-capturing cisterns cut into the mountain. By the third century BC, the Cesetani found themselves caught in the middle of a monumental collision between two great empires, the Romans and the Carthaginians. They sided with the Romans, who took control of the settlement and drove the Carthaginians out, establishing the province of Hispania Citerior Tarraconensis, with its capital at Tarragona. There are numerous remains from Olèrdola’s Roman period, including the gate tower, while on the heights of the hill, beyond thick scrub and evergreen oaks, there’s a ruined Roman watchtower. Nearby, you will also find a gorgeous Romanesque chapel dating from a later 12th-century settlement. An hour’s drive from Barcelona, Sant Miquel d’Olèrdola forms part of the Ruta dels Ibers, a network of more than a dozen Iberian archaeological sites across Catalunya. Winter opening hours are 10am-4pm (5pm in spring). The site also has a small but informative archaeological museum. Admission is €3.50. mac.cat

Finca Viladellops

LUNCH Dating back to the 11th century, Masia Segarrulls is a medieval farmhouse situated on the road winding up the hill to the ruins of Olèrdola. The establishment is full of antediluvian curiosities and keeps up its historical traditions with medieval-styled banquets (upon request). It is open at weekends and on public holidays, and the Catalan-style menú del día costs €30. masiasegarrulls.com

WINE TASTING Locals have been producing wine in this area since the sixth century BC, when Phoenician traders introduced the first Chardonnay grapes. The white-washed, 19th-century Finca Viladellops is on a charming spot beside the castle of Sant Miquel, surrounded by almonds, olives and armies of vines marching over the hill. It’s the kind of place Van Gogh would have enjoyed painting. A guided tour of the wine cellar, vineyard and the 12th-century chapel (remarkably similar to that of Sant Miquel d’Olèrdola) costs €23, with a tasting session at the end. fincaviladellops.com

GETTING THERE

Take the A2 going west out of Barcelona. At Vilafranca del Penedès, take the C-15 and head south until Sant Miquel d’Olèrdola. From here it’s a short drive along the BV-2443 to the archaeological site.

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RESTAURANT REVIEW

BICNIC A COUNTRY PICNIC IN THE CITY By Sam Zucker

icnic is a new restaurant concept (actually, it’s two concepts in one) by the creators of Betlem, the stylish gastro bar that resides next door. Located on Carrer de Girona with Carrer del Consell de Cent, Bicnic is a self-proclaimed respite from the city; an escapada, if merely for a couple of hours, from the urban chaos and into nature. I can’t remember ever eating steak tartare with smoked eel and roasted bone marrow, or a seared ray wing with black garlic aioli and rockfish suquet (stew) on any picnics of mine, though maybe this means I have been doing them wrong all along. The emphasis at Bicnic is on international dishes, carefully crafted with local ingredients, and I’m happy to say that virtually all of the eight plates we sampled would be welcome additions to my basket if such a luxurious picnic were indeed possible. Bicnic, with chef Víctor Ferrer at the kitchen’s helm and Eduard Tortajada presiding over the dining room, has two distinct concepts—‘fast’ and ‘slow’—which are both hailed as natural evolutions of their original nomadic food truck of the same name. Chef Ferrer has a solid pedigree of fine dining training in threeMichelin-starred restaurants in France and Spain, which certainly shows in dishes like the artfully-plated tuna tiradito, served with sea urchin emulsion and sweet potato. Eating at Bicnic, however, is a far more casual experience. One enters through the fast side of this U-shaped restaurant: a

long, low bar where sandwiches, soups and salads, along with a small assortment of hot dishes, are served in a quick and casual way. The decor and branding of the restaurant was developed by Barcelona studio Toormix in conjunction with architect Narcís Font, and it evokes the feeling of being on a road trip out of Barcelona. A more urban, city-themed decor in the fast dining area eventually gives way to more organic shapes and verdant colours when you arrive in the slow section, which is where we enjoyed our dinner. The slow menu is broken down into starters, firsts and mains. We began with a ravioli of red wine-braised veal shank, which resembled a large gyoza dumpling, delicately cooked and coddled by a mild shiitake mushroom broth full of floating tobiko fish roe. With a tableside pour of hot broth, the presentation was excellent, although this was actually the least enjoyable dish of the evening. The ‘mild’ was just a bit too mild and came across as bland. Thankfully it was first, and quickly forgiven as we moved through the courses. The following starter was packed with flavour. The Vietnamesestyle nem rán (crispy rolls) were presented as a trio of lightly-fried rice paper rolls, stuffed with slow-cooked lamb and vegetables, and served with tender bib lettuce leaves, mint and basil used as a wrap around the crispy rolls. The dipping sauce was a vinaigrette based on the traditional Vietnamese nuoc cham, with the addition of sweet yet tart mango nectar.

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Photos courtesy of Bicnic

MORE INFO

Girona 68 T. 690 904 614 bicnic.com Tues-Sat 1pm-3.30pm, 7.30pm to 11pm Sun-Mon Closed ✪✪✪✪ ✪ NOT WORTH THE TRIP ✪✪ COULD IMPROVE ✪✪✪ GOOD ✪✪✪✪ VERY GOOD ✪✪✪✪✪ NOT TO BE MISSED

Needless to say, I enjoyed my foray into Bicnic’s natureevoking dining concept The tiradito came next and was perhaps my favourite of the night. The carefully sliced lobes of farm-raised tuna were dressed with a traditional leche de tigre sauce and the plate was decorated with dozens of colourful dots—an alternating mosaic of sea urchin purée, little cubes of roasted sweet potato, dabs of avocado mousse, and more little pools of leche de tigre—all of which I mopped up with the Bicnic slow-fermented sourdough bread until the plate was clean. I can’t count how many tartares—steak or otherwise—I have tasted over the last five years in Barcelona, but the addition of morsels of smokey and sweet eel and the Flintstones-sized bone full

of rich and succulent roasted marrow, made this one of the best to date. It was extremely filling—we were warned—and I should have stopped half way through to leave room for subsequent courses, but I ended up eating this sybaritic dish in its entirety—first with the paper-thin toast accompanying the tartare, and later with a spoon until the marrow bone was clean. The savoury portion of the meal was rounded off with the seared ray wing and a grilled Iberian pork chop, the latter of which was an appropriate finale, as it was not overly heavy and had exceptional balance. The well-seasoned pork was married with an earthy and sweet pumpkin purée, slices of tangy pickled beetroot, and a bowl of peppery, rocket salad—companions that got on in delicious harmony. Though we were recommended the creamy dark chocolate ingot with spiced cream and spicy ‘mole’ oil drops for dessert, we decided to go for the lighter option. The ‘Peeled Lemon’—a palate-cleansing mix of lemon sorbet, lemon thyme meringues and Szechuan flowers—was lovely, as was the ‘Orange Cloud’, an equally light and refreshing mound of orange blossom-flavoured shaved ice, garnished with fizzy, CO2-infused pomegranate seeds and a scoop of Aperol Spritz sorbet. Needless to say, I enjoyed my foray into Bicnic’s nature-evoking dining concept and, with the restaurant only having opened its doors in October 2017, I am sure many others soon will too.

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Photos courtesy of Chingón

QUICK BITES

CHINGÓN

CALIFORNIA DREAMIN’ IN POBLENOU By Sam Zucker

MORE INFO

Pallars 329 T. 618 510 493 Mon Closed Tues-Thurs 12pm-4pm, 8pm-11.30pm Fri-Sun 12pm-4pm, 8pm-12am

nspired by the streets and eats of Los Angeles, two friends from Andalusia—chef Miky Manrubia and associate Álvaro Morro—have brought the essence of their Californian awakening back to Spain. Chingón offers a unique blend of LA street food and good, old-fashioned American excess, and after a couple of iterations of the idea elsewhere, the duo have settled on Carrer de Pallars in Poblenou. The decor at Chingón is an intense mix of skulls and skater punk illustrations with a distinctly Southern California vibe, which carries over onto the walls, menus and the dishes themselves. The menu has moments of refinement and finesse, but leans heavily on the hedonistic, sloppy food that represents West Coast indulgence at its finest. A fan of late-night tacos, decadent oysters, and the InN-Out Burger restaurant chain, Manrubia offers a little something for everyone, though salads and lighter fare are minimal. The meal was an array of dishes, with the highlights being an ultra-tender braised beef suadero taco, which looked like it had come straight out of an East LA taco truck, and a spicy and experimental octopus, chipotle and kimchi taco. We started with a delicious Vietnamese oyster, sourced from the Delta de l’Ebre, dropped into a shot glass of fish sauce vinaigrette, yuzu, radish sprouts and quail egg—an intricate preparation that is one of the chef’s personal favourites. The duck confit quesadilla, loaded with truffle and hoisin sauces, and topped with crunchy fried onions, is the star dish, and the ‘Pink’s Hotdog’ is a messy delight—an all-beef hot dog, loaded with bacon, guacamole, jalapeños, cheese and sour cream. I would have gone for the slow-cooked ribs with Parmesan paprika butter too,

but I know when I have reached my limit. Diners have a choice of six LA burgers—from the ‘Skate Venice’ with candied bacon, gorgonzola, beetroot and a fried egg, to the ‘Koreatown’, a seared fresh tuna steak with guacamole, cucumber, seaweed, tobiko and sriracha mayonnaise. You can also go for the veggie option, a homemade potato and veggie pattie, with any of the burger styles. Which ever you choose, all are best paired with a tangled, crispy mess of curly fries, topped with either chilli and cheese or truffled Parmesan. The micheladas are massive in size and superbly mixed, while the Chingona IPA is its own craft brew, bottled and specially labelled for the restaurant by the L’Estupenda brewery of Sant Cugat.

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RECIPE

POTATO, GREEN BEAN AND PRESERVED LEMON SALAD (SERVES 6)

By Tara Stevens

hen the weather is, at best, very cold and crisp, and at worst, downright gloomy, it’s time to gather friends and hunker down for a long, lazy and, above all, sturdy Sunday lunch, washed down with plenty of Spanish red wine. This is a robust side dish that goes brilliantly with roast chicken, but is interesting enough to serve as a vegetarian main. It nicely straddles winter-tospring dishes and takes almost no effort to make, which is just what’s needed for large-scale entertaining. Preserved lemons are easy to make at home but they take about a month, so pop into any of the Moroccan butchers in the Born or the Raval and buy a few to store in the fridge. They keep indefinitely.

IN SEASON

FEBRUARY CABBAGE, LAMB’S LETTUCE (CANÓNIGOS), CALÇOTS

INGREDIENTS 1.5kg potatoes, scrubbed in their skins 500g green beans, topped and tailed ¾ preserved lemon, flesh discarded, peel rinsed

FOR THE VINAIGRETTE 3 tsp Dijon mustard 3 tbsp cider vinegar 15 tbsp olive oil Salt and pepper

METHOD 1. To make the vinaigrette, whisk together the mustard with the vinegar, then slowly add in the olive oil, continuously whisking to form a thick emulsion the consistency of mayonnaise. 2. Season well and set aside (this will make more than you need, but it’s always handy to have in the fridge). 3. Cut the preserved lemon peel into very thin slivers (so you can see the back of the knife through them). 4. Put 4-5 tablespoons of vinaigrette together with the preserved lemon slivers in the bottom of a large shallow bowl. 5. Cook the potatoes and beans until tender, drain well. 6. Slice the potatoes into 1cm rounds, leave the beans whole. 7. Gently toss the still-warm vegetables through the vinaigrette and preserved lemon (I find it easiest to do this with my hands). 8. Serve at room temperature. It goes well with roast chicken, fish, a bowl of soup or a few generous spoonfuls of a ripe Torta del Casar (sheep's cheese from Extremadura).

Tara Stevens is a food writer and cook who splits her time between Barcelona and her cooking school, the Courtyard Kitchen, in the Fez Medina. Passionate about Spanish and Moroccan cuisine, she takes traditional recipes and gives them a modern makeover using local and seasonal ingredients. Follow Tara on Instagram @courtyardkitchenfez and Twitter @taralstevens.

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BOO RESTAURANT & beach club

ubmerge into a truly authentic maritime world at the Boo

More than just a restaurant, The Boo serves as an extensive cultural

Restaurant and Beach Club. Situated on Barcelona’s Nova

leisure proposal, with its versatile beach club available for hosting

Mar Bella beach, Boo oﬀers diners panoramic views of the

all kinds of events, including for private, corporate and business. It

Mediterranean sea all year round, and its boat-like structure creates a

also oﬀers a ﬂexible timetable where you can kickstart the day with

unique dining experience.

a coﬀee by the sea, or unwind at sunset with a cocktail in hand. The

The Boo stands out for its quality gastronomic fare, which is credited to the commitment and creativity of their chef. The cuisine

beach bar is decked with hammocks and sunbathing spots, making it an irresistible spot to while away the hours.

harmoniously blends seasonal Mediterranean dishes with fresh

The Boo opened in Barcelona in 2011, with the aim of creating a

and local products, with its distinguishable paella at the core of its

meeting point to enjoy quality gastronomy, culture and leisure. With

menu. Each dish is artistically prepared to provide an explosion of

the renowned prestige of Valentina Giraudo and Daniel Reina, who

ﬂavours for diners, carefully creating textures and aromas to add to

bring their expertise of catering and nightlife to Boo’s beach club,

the sensation.

Boo has become one of the main arteries in the restoration of the city.

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NEFW &D

FOOD DRINK

& IN

ÁNDELE4EIXAMPLE Part of the Ándele Group, this new, modern restaurant in Barcelona’s Eixample district offers an authentic, traditional Mexican cuisine. It combines traditional recipes with new, continuing to surprise and delight diners, whilst ensuring high quality ingredients for every dish. The restaurant also features an attractive bar, where you can enjoy a full selection of tequilas, mescals and various premium distillates used to create delicious cocktails. Average menu price 20 and lunch menu available from 12.90.

DISCOUNT FOR METROPOLITAN READERS

under 20 | 20-30 | 30-40 | over 40  food&drink visit our online directory www.barcelona-metropolitan.com/eating-and-drinking

París 147, 08036 Tel. 93 277 8766 | www.andele.es info@andele.es Mon-Sun 1pm-4pm, 8pm-12am

To advertise in this section call: 93 451 4486 or email: ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com

TOTORA4EIXAMPLE

MENEGHINA4BORN

Authentic Peruvian recipes with cuttingedge cuisine awaits diners at Totora. The restaurant offers a gastronomical journey of Peru with classics such as cebiche, ají de gallina (spicy chicken stew), and the lomo saltado (sautéed beef tenderloin), alongside new, creative dishes concocted by head chef Pablo Ortega. Diners can enjoy Ortega’s menu, infused with tastes of the sea, or can linger at the restaurant’s long bar to enjoy bartenders cultivate tasty cocktails, including the Peruvian classic, pisco sour. Menu of the day available from 17.50.

Located on a quaint side street close to the convent of Sant Agusti in El Born, Meneghina offers an exciting and innovative combination of Italian and Catalan flavours, tempting desserts and an extensive selection of wines in a relaxed atmosphere. The menu features fresh seasonal produce, which changes on a daily basis.

Tiradors 2 I T. 93 119 2221 hola@meneghina.es I www.meneghina.es www.facebook.com/meneghinas Tues-Sun 1pm-3.30pm, Tues-Sat 8.30pm-11.30pm

Còrsega 235, 08036 Tel. 93 667 4372 Mon-Sun 1pm-3.30pm, 8pm-11.30pm

LOIDI RESTAURANT 4EIXAMPLE Loidi is a contemporary bistro, in which Martin Berasategui makes his cuisine accessible to everybody. Prepared with the finest seasonal ingredients, his cuisine is presented with an imagination that recalls and pays homage to the celebrated Basque chef’s traditional roots and origins. The menu features various dining options with dishes that change on a weekly basis. The restaurant is a very contemporary, warm and comfortable space frequented by a local and professional clientele. Head chef: Jordi Asensio. Maître d’: Oscar Fernández. Mallorca 248-250, 08008 Tel. 93 492 9292 Mon-Sat 1pm-3.30pm and 8pm-11pm, Sun 1pm-3.30pm

FONDA ESPAÑA4 BARRI GÒTIC Located in the emblematic Hotel España, the Modernist dining room, designed and decorated by Domènech i Montaner, houses Fonda España. Rich in patrimonial interest, the historic elements in this beautiful room inspire and enhance the new elements. Here, Gastronomic Director Martín Berasategui’s aim is to offer his well-known culinary concept to diners looking for simple, balanced and delicious dishes that are a tribute to the renowned chef’s origins. Sant Pau 9-11 I Metro Liceu Tel. 93 550 0000 Mon-Sat 1pm-4pm and 8pm-11pm Sun 1pm-4pm

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BLACKLAB BREWERY4 BARCELONETA Blacklab have a huge range of American Style craft beers made on premises with a Minnesotan brewer. They experiment with their brews like a beer lab. They have four beers all year around, 16 rotating seasonals. Their beer is poured directly from the tanks and you won’t find anything fresher. Their kitchen is non stop and doesn’t close during opening hrs. They serve tasty American Food with Asian touch. Beer tour and beer tasting with their brewers every Sunday at 17h. Also available for big groups at any day.

Palau de Mar, Plaça Pau Vila 1, 08039 Tel. 93 22 18 360 hola@blacklab.es www.blacklab.es

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BAR DOS BILLARES4 RAVAL

MANNÀ GELATS4 BARRI GÒTIC

This well-kept secret is located in the basement of Casa Camper Hotel, where jazz, culture and billiard lovers can relax and enjoy an exclusive cocktail. This club offers a programme of cultural and music events for the most creative public. It is the ideal space for escaping the crowds or hosting business clients.

Mannà Gelats offers homemade ice creams, waffles and crêpes in the heart of the Barrio Gótico. Their ice creams are inspired by family recipes, using the finest products. The fresh fruit sorbets are made with market-bought products, and boast a range of exotic varieties. Their passion is to please their customers with personalised attention.

Banys Nous 22 | Metro Liceu Tel. 93 342 7312 Sun-Thurs 11am-10pm Fri-Sat 11am-11pm www.mannagelats.wordpress.com

Elisabets 11 | Metro Liceu Tel. 93 342 6280 Tues-Thurs 4pm-12am Fri-Sat 4pm-2am www.club.casacamper.com

Indian / Tandoori BAR CENTRO4 EIXAMPLE

NICE SPICE4POBLENOU

Bar Centro offers a unique experience when you indulge in one of their burgers. 40-day aged beef of Galician ‘Vaca Vieja’ cooked on the grill is a must-try. Eight craft beer taps go hand in hand with their gastronomic proposal. Don’t miss all four versions of their pulled pork, the homemade nachos, the chilli or the bravas! Everything is handcrafted.

Specialists in Tandoori. Typical halaal with high quality dishes. See the chefs prepare and cook your food ,which is all made with fresh ingredients. Boasting a Bollywood musical ambience, Nice Spice is an excellent choice for traditional indian food in Barcelona.

Casp 55. 08010 Metro Tetuan/ Urquinaona Tel. 93 192 5255 www.barcentrobcn.com barcentrobcn@gmail.com Mon-Wed 1pm-11pm Thurs-Fri 1pm-11.30pm Sat 8pm-12am

Pujades 207 | Metro Poblenou Tel. 93 308 9548 www.restaurantnicespice.com Open everday 12pm-4pm, 8pm-12pm

Vegetarian/Vegan D9 BAR4 POBLENOU Whether you are an Erasmus student, a football fanatic or a music lover, D9 Bar has a night for you. Equipped with a terrace, D9 offers a wide range of tapas, beers, cocktails and shots for every night of the week. With American Day on Wednesdays, Erasmus parties on Thursdays and music-themed parties on Fridays and Saturdays, there is always something for everyone.

Pallars 122, 08016 Tel. 93 309 9202 I www.denou.bar Sun-Thurs 6pm-2.30am Fri-Sat 6pm-3am

GOVINDA (VEGETARIAN)4BARRI GÒTIC Founded over 30 years ago, Govinda continues to thrive on a blend of experience and fresh innovation with its vegetarian Indian cuisine. The international menu features thalis, a salad bar, natural juices, lassis, pizzas and crêpes. Govinda offers a vegan-friendly, non-alcoholic and authentically-decorated environment with lunch and weekend menus. Plaça Vila de Madrid 4-5 | Metro Catalunya | Tel. 93 318 7729 Tues-Sat 1pm-4pm and 8pm-11.30pm, Sun-Mon 1pm-4pm | www.govinda.es

AMALTEA4EIXAMPLE A warm and welcoming environment allows you to fully enjoy a tasty and healthier alternative to your everyday meal. Dishes include cereals, pulses and vegetables and homemade puddings. The cuisine is creatively international with care taken to ensure that each meal is well-balanced and made with the freshest ingredients. Their menu of the day costs 10.90, while their night and weekend menus cost 15.80. Diputació 164 | Metro Urgell | Tel. 93 454 8613 Mon-Sat 1pm-4pm and 8pm-11pm, Sun closed | www.restauranteamaltea.com

BE MY BAGEL4GRÀCIA Do you dream of great bagels? Then Be My Bagel is the right place for you. They sell authentic bagels from Barcelona, just how you like them. Offering an extensive range of bagels and cakes— from the more classic choices such as poppy and multigrain to delicious and innovative chocolate, almond and coconut bagels—you won’t come away disappointed.

Planeta 37 (Pl. del Sol) | Metro Fontana or Gràcia Tel. 93 518 7151 I bemybagel@gmail.com Mon-Fri 9.30am-2pm and 5pm-8.30pm Sat 10am-2.30pm and 6pm-10pm Sun 10.30am-2pm www.bemybagel.es

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FOR THE BEST BARS, CAFES, AND RESTAURANTS IN BARCELONA, SEE OUR ONLINE A-Z DIRECTORY

1/29/18 1:59 PM

HEALTH &BEAUTY

Dr. Steven Joseph - DOCTOR An English doctor in Barcelona, Dr Steven Joseph is a member of The Royal College of General Practitioners and The Royal College of Psychiatrists. He offers a wide range of medical care, including family medicine, sexual health, mental health and access to all specialists and tests. Physiotherapy and chiropractic services are also available. Googol Medical Center provides comprehensive healthcare in a relaxed, friendly and discreet environment. Dr Joseph is happy to take your enquiries directly.

DISCOUNT FOR METROPOLITAN READERS

To advertise in this section call: 93 451 4486 or email: ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com See our online directory at

Gran Via Carles III 37-39, 08028 M. 662 291 191 www.englishdoctorbarcelona.com

www.barcelona-metropolitan.com ServiDigest - HEALTH ServiDigest have more than 40 years’ experience working in the health industry and are pioneers in colorectal cancer prevention. Nowadays, colorectal cancer is one of the most common cancers and prevention is the best treatment. Detecting symptoms at earlier stages is the key to a good outcome. However, if it is discovered at an advanced stage, it has a ﬁve-year survival rate. They have two important digestive screening programmes: the Colorectal Prevention Programme and the Digestive Cancer Prevention Programme.

Doctor for Adults

Mary D. McCarthy, M.D. Fellow American College of Physicians

Dr. Narayn is an expert in digestion disorders, diet and nutrition at Ayurveda Barcelona, an Ayurvedic Health Centre located in the “Les Corts” district behind L’Illa Diagonal. The centre provides Ayurvedic consultancy, Ayurvedic treatments and massages, detox programmes and ongoing training in Ayurveda.

Balmes 334, 08006 T. 93 415 3464 / 93 545 0990 Mon-Fri 9am-2pm and 4pm-9pm Sat 9am-2pm, Sun closed uad@servidigest.com www.servidigest.com

L’Aviacio 11, 08029 T. 93 494 29 28 / M. 639 325 756 ayurvedabarcelona.net@gmail.com www.ayurvedabarcelona.net. Open Mon-Sat 10am-8.30pm

Mary D. McCarthy - DOCTOR

Eugenia Espinosa - ENGLISH SPEAKING PSYCHOLOGIST

Feel conﬁdent with Dr. Mary McCarthy, an American-trained doctor for adults. A native English speaker with over 20 years’ experience in Barcelona, Dr. McCarthy offers professional, private health care. She is a member of the American College of Physicians and International Association for Medical Assistance for Travellers, and is also certiﬁed as a Specialist by the American Board of Internal Medicine.

Aribau 215 Pral. 1a T. 93 200 2924 M. 607 220 040

Dr Bassas - DERMATOLOGY The Javier Bassas Dermatology Centre is a well-renowned dermatology and surgical centre equipped with the latest technology. The medical team, led by Dr. Javier Bassas Bresca, consists of surgical dermatology and venereology specialists with vast clinical and surgical experience. Their goal is to provide specialised, rigorous, efﬁcient and accessible care, with the highest quality and ethical standards. Diagnosing and treating skin diseases is their priority, as well as offering the latest advances in dermoaesthetics. Consulta Balmes 24 1º1 T. 93 412 6602 Teknon, Marquesa de Vilallonga nº12 Consulta nº 34 1ª 08017 T. 93 290 6434 www.drbassas.com

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Narayn Yadave AYURVEDIC DOCTOR

Eugenia is a licensed psycologist (col. 18602) and therapist for individuals, couples and families, who specialises in issues related to migration. Trained in Mexico, New York and Barcelona, she has a wealth of experience in treating individuals dealing with the complexities and stress of building a new life in a foreign country. She also offers comprehensive treatment for people going through depression, divorce or any other life-altering event.

50% DISCOUNT ON FIRST VISIT FREE CONSULTATION

Santa Perpetua M. 677 090 479 genaespinosa@yahoo.com

Hestía - PSYCHOTHERAPY Hestía International Psychotherapy Centre has become a reference in the city, due to its high quality multidisciplinary and multilingual proﬁle. Their professional team works with individuals, couples and families through a variety of services and approaches to therapy and personal development. They speak English, Spanish, French, Italian, Dutch, German, Portuguese, Greek, Polish, Swedish, Russian and Catalan. The ﬁrst consultation is free.

Diagonal 343, 2º 3ª T. 93 459 2802 info@hestia.es www.hestia.es

1/29/18 2:02 PM

Goldie Uttamchandani -

Orthoestetic - DENTIST

LIFE, BUSINESS AND YOUTH COACH

The Orthoestetic Clinic is located in the heart of Barcelona near the Sagrada Familia. They have modern clinical facilities and equipment, which together with their extensive experience, allows them to offer an integral quality dentistry, designed to seek the satisfaction of the patients. Dr. Holguin is a specialist in dental aesthetics, and orthopedics and orthodontics for children and adults. She is certiﬁed by the Invisalign system.

Platinum Provider

Diagonal 341, loc 1. 08037 T. 93 512 4749 M. 638 545 555 www.orthoestetic.es www.ortoesteticbcn.es info@orthoestetic.es

READER OFFER

M. 669 788 508 Skype: goldieuttam goldieuttam@gmail.com www.goldieuttam.com

Dra. Susana Campi -

Emma Ruiz -

DENTIST

GESTALT THERAPIST

New premises, new services and new state of the art equipment! For all your dental needs, their team of ﬁrst-class professionals offer excellent treatment. They have over 35 years’ experience and provide services in English, German, French, Italian, Spanish and Catalan.

Would you like to identify those aspects of yourself or your life that no longer seem to be in tune? Emma Ruiz is a trained Gestalt Therapist, who will work with you to identify what may be holding you back and preventing you from becoming the best version of yourself. Emma ensures conﬁdentiality to build a foundation of mutual trust and respect. Metropolitan readers can enjoy a free 1to1 discovery session.

Josep Tarradellas 97 local, 08029 Bus: 15,27,32,43,54,59,66,78 T. 93 321 4005 susanacampi1980@gmail.com www.clinicadentalcampi.com

FREE DISCOVERY SESSION

Còrsega 218 M. 659 126 877 emma@gestalttherapyinbarcelona. com www.gestalttherapyinbarcelona.com

Dr. Boj - DENTIST

Gina Fegali - THERAPIST

Dr. Boj and his team offer specialised, comprehensive dental and orthodontic treatment for children and teens. Laser dentistry and invisible orthodontics are provided. Dr. Boj lectures on dentistry related to these age groups. He studied at the School of Medicine and Dentistry of the University of Rochester, NY, USA. This is a fast and friendly service in an English-speaking, international environment.

Gina Fegali is an English-speaking Sound Therapist and Meditation Teacher. Her programme, Sound Meditation Moments, uses the harmonic vibration of different sounds to stimulate brainwaves, which allows her clients to enter states of deep consciousness that promote healing and wellbeing. Fegali also offers a range of spa treatments, which combine meditation, exotic oils and massage to create balance and wellness, alongside meditative training, workshops, retreats and more.

Prats de Mollo 10, Bajos B, 08021 T. 93 209 3994 www.drboj.org

M. 635 055 361 Sombrerers 27, Principal hello@ginafegali.com www.ginafegali.com

Dr. Alistair Gallagher -

Konstantina Kara

DENTIST The British Dental Clinic has a patient-friendly philosophy that combines aesthetics, youthful appearances, and a commitment to total oral health. Conveniently located in Barcelona, they offer orthodontics including Fast Braces and Inman Aligner, implants, cosmetic dentistry, whitening and general family dentistry. Their talented, conscientious and friendly staff will help ensure that you comfortably receive the healthy and beautiful smile that you deserve. Diagonal 281 T. 93 265 8070 M. 607 332 335 info@thebritishdentalclinic.com www.thebritishdentalclinic.com

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Goldie is a bilingual ICF Certiﬁed Youth & Family Coach. It is her belief that in your teen years, you can truly unlock your highest potential as a human being. She is focused on accompanying this age group on navigating through this challenging and exciting journey to help them attain their goals. Try a complimentary ﬁrst session and begin your journey on connecting with your true greatness.

- HOMEOPATHY, EAR ACUPUNCTURE Konstantina uses homeopathy to boost your immune system, allowing you to be a part of your own healing. It is an effective, non-invasive, holistic system of healing, which can treat a number of physical problems and help overcome mental/emotional ailments, such as fears or anxiety. Konstantina also offers ear acupuncture; an effective treatment for reducing withdrawal symptoms of smoking cessation or substance abuse while detoxing the body. M. 655 666 618 konstantina@nyhomeopath.com www.nyhomeopath.com

1/29/18 2:02 PM

Barcelona Quiropractic Barcelona Quiropractic and its professional team have been serving the Barcelona community since 1995. They value quality service, efficiency and dedication, delivering the best results in the shortest time possible. The team provides a professional, yet friendly and family-oriented environment, catering to a wide range of patients. They aim to promote the integration of chiropractic into your lifestyle, to maintain health and wellbeing. Contact them for more information.

Oliver Dawson CHIROPRACTOR Oliver Dawson is a chiropractor who focuses on the direct relationship between spinal structures and health. Through specific spinal realignment and structural correction, better neurological connections are established throughout the nervous system. The result is less pain, more vitality and better health. Every Thursday from 8-9pm, Oliver offers free health activation workshops about the benefits of chiropractic and the key principles.To attend the workshop, please confirm by email and quote ‘Metropolitan’.

Pl. Urquinaona 7, 08010 T. 93 412 3433 M. 601 059 849 info@barcelonaquiropractic.es www.barcelonaquiropractic.es

Sombrerers 27, Principal T. 93 268 3070 M. 622 772 623 oliver@bornquiro.com www.bornquiro.com

- CHIROPRACTOR

The Vital Touch - MASSAGE

Kamen B. Petrov - PSYCHOTHERAPIST Kamen is an experienced Jungian Psychotherapist, Lecturer and Psychologist, Member of the British Psychological Society, Professor at Metáfora Barcelona. He works with individuals, couples, children and families and offers supervision to psychotherapists. To learn more or to book a free introductory session, please visit his website.

The Vital Touch help people to focus better and feel re-energised. They come to you and set up their ergonomic chairs, which you can relax into comfortably and fully-clothed for an effective energising massage. You emerge 20 minutes later with increased vitality and all tensions released.

M. 603 490 498 kamenbpetrov@gmail.com

Mind & Soul Barcelona - INTERNATIONAL GROUP OF DEPTH PSYCHOTHERAPISTS A group of certified psychotherapists with extensive experience in the field of psychology and psychotherapy. They focus on issues of change, conflict and relationship difficulties, offering individual and couple psychotherapy with flexible hours and affordable fees adjusted to individual income. Visit their website for more information or to book a session. www.mindandsoul.world

Beneﬁts of the massage include: de-stressing, relaxation, revitalisation, tension release, detoxiﬁcation, immunity boost and improvement in posture. Contact Nunu by phone or email for more information. M. 659 995 657 enquiries@thevitaltouch.es www.tvtbarcelona.com

The Pink Peony BEAUTY SALON The PEONY de SY facial is a complex recovery treatment for mature skin that combines organic Dr. Hauschka products, non-abrasive ultrasonic exfoliation, detoxifying lymphatic stimulation and collagen-regenerating LED Light therapy. The result is a luminous, visibly repaired complexion and an ongoing stimulation of collagen production.

Jonathan Hooker - PSYCHOTHERAPIST Jonathan specialises in helping people to deal with change. This may be aspects of their life they would like to change or unexpected changes that they are dealing with. An English-speaking psychotherapist, counsellor, coach and guide, he helps people to improve their relationships and make sense of their lives. M. 639 579 646 jonathan.hooker@yahoo.com www.jonathanhooker.com

Emma Axelsson - THERAPIST & COACH Emma is a certified therapist who helps you handle life’s ups and downs, specialising in self-esteem and anxiety-related issues. The first introductory session is free of charge. She also provides group therapy for self-esteem. Visit her website for more information

When making your facial reservation, quote ‘Metropolitan’ for a free eyebrow and upper lip threading worth €35. Passeig de Gracia 100, Pral. 2ª Mandri 62 T. 93 487 8464 Whatsapp: 648 248 744 www.thepinkpeony.com

República Argentina 19, 08023 M. 685 837 223 em@owning-it.com www.owning-it.com

Yoga con Gracia - YOGA An enchanting neighbourhood studio and community space with two locations in the heart of Gràcia. Founded in 2004, you will ﬁnd a friendly, international vibe in the gorgeous loft-style studios. YcG has something for everyone, from Hatha, Sivananda, Kundalini, Jivamukti (a fast-paced Vinyasa) to English, pre-natal and Mum and Baby yoga classes. www.yogacongracia.com

Pharmacy Serra Mandri - CHEMIST The pharmacy is open 365 days a year and offers a home delivery service. The staff can help and advise each client to ensure they get exactly what they need. They also stock a great range of products, including homeopathy, natural medicine, aromatherapy and organic cosmetics. Av. Diagonal 478 T. 93 416 1270 9am-10pm www.farmaciaserra.com

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10% DISCOUNT FOR METROPOLITAN READERS

Tàctum - HAIR SALON Located in Gràcia, this friendly and welcoming salon has everything you need to feel special. They work together with clients to create a look that reﬂects their individual style and personality. They are experts in curly hair, hair colouring and above all the use of progressive vegetable hair dye, which harnesses the purity of water. They can also advise you on the cut that best suits you.

Torrent de L’Olla 85 (Metro Joanic) T. 93 217 9316 tactum@tacum.cat Tues-Thurs 10.30am-8.30pm Fri-Sat 9.30am-8.30pm www.tactum.es

1/29/18 2:02 PM

BUSINESS SERVICES

Spain AccountingTAX & BUSINESS SErVICES Qualified UK accountant with 30 years experience in Spain offers: • tax services for freelance “autónomos” and small SLs • income tax returns for employees and non-residents • practical advice on setting up a business in Spain • registration of “autónomos” and company incorporation (SL) • personalised advice on your tax obligations in Spain • fast, reliable email service

DISCOUNT FOR METROPOLITAN READERS

To advertise in this section call: 93 451 4486 or email: ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com

Contact David Cook on M. 678 702 369 info@spainaccounting.com www.spainaccounting.com

See our online directory at

www.barcelona-metropolitan.com

READER OFFER

Klev & Vera -

Barcelona Accounting -

LAW FIrM

BUSINESS SErVICE

This firm specialises in attending to the legal needs of international clients in Spain. They have multilingual team of lawyers with international backgrounds, specialising in different areas of legal practice including: • Real Estate • Business Set Up • Spanish Residence • Family Law • Litigation • Tax Planning

Need help with your small business finances? Barcelona Accounting can create an efficient financial system for a start-up or existing business, convert you to a modern cloud accounting solution, organise and/or update your bookkeeping, manage your compliance and run financial analysis to help grow your business.

Valencia 281, 2-2 T. 93 176 0190 info@klevvera.com www.klevvera.com

Sánchez Molina LEGAL PRACTICE The lawyers at Sánchez Molina speak English, Spanish, Italian and French. They can help with your business licensing services, legal defence and representation, registration under any form of ownership, accounting services and work and residency permits.

Gran Via Carles III, 84, 5 T. 93 490 9669 javiergarcia@sanchezmolina.com www.sanchezmolina.com

BCN Seguros - INSUrANCE This local Barcelona insurance agency provides complete personal and business insurance services (home, car, health, commercial, public liability, life, motor, yacht, travel, etc.). They offer a 30% cost-saving guarantee by keeping insurance coverage identical. Advice is available in Spanish, English and German.

M. 636 465 010 rainerhobrack@gmail.com www.bcnseguros.es

77-80 Business Feb18.indd 43

READER OFFER

M. 670 405 727 info@bcnaccounting.com www.bcnaccounting.com

NIE Barcelona

- BUSINESS

NIE Barcelona is a service that helps foreigners resolve all the paperwork needed for living and working in Barcelona. Their main focus is on helping to secure the NIE for EU and NON-EU citizens in a fast and efficient way. They can also help with other administrative procedures, such as social security numbers, empadronamiento, autónomo set up, and change of driving license.

M. 603 209 403 info@niebarcelona.com www.niebarcelona.com

Corsa International DrIVING SCHOOL Corsa driving school in Barcelona offers both theoretical classes and practical driving lessons in English. Their friendly and experienced instructors will give you the confidence to drive comfortably in the city and help you learn about Spanish road systems. They have both manual and automatic practice vehicles. Call now and ask about special Metropolitan reader offers!

Beethoven 16, Bajos, 08021 T. 93 200 3324 international@autoescuelacorsa.com www.autoescuelacorsa.com www.facebook.com/CorsaInternational/

1/30/18 11:44 AM

Barcelona Women’s Network - NONPROFIT

Supported charities 2016 - 2018

BWN offers support, friendship and networking opportunities to internationally minded women residing in, or just arriving in Barcelona. They are unique in that they are a social group with a social purpose - raising funds for community organisations through various activities and events, with the help of their community sponsors. Connect with like-minded women while giving back to the community. Find out more about membership via their website membership@bcnwomensnetwork.com

president@bcnwomensnetwork.com www.bcnwomensnetwork.com

- Online navigation theory courses and sailing tuition. - Obtain your Competent Crew, Day Skipper, Coastal Skipper and Yachtmaster with us! - Courses for beginners to advanced sailors. - Day Charter trips for private groups. We want to share our passion with you, we are more than a Sailing School!

T. 93 004 5707 info@yachtpointbcn.com yachtpointbcn.com/en/ryatrainingcentre/

PWN Barcelona - NON PROFIT

Coccinelle - PRIVATE STAFF rECrUITMENT

PWN Barcelona is part of a global movement working towards gender balanced leadership through professional development and a range of networking options: in-person, online, cross-industry, and international. They offer Mentoring programmes and an EU Business School certified virtual programme for entrepreneurs. Regular events include 2nd Tuesday Networking Drinks and professional development workshops. “Let’s advance how men and women work together”.

Coccinelle specialises in providing highly-skilled, experienced domestic staff in Barcelona and surrounding areas. Their expertise and rigorous selection method ensures they are able to provide seasoned professionals for both permanent and temporary positions, where over 700 families have trusted in their services. Call them today and quote ‘Metropolitan’ for a free consultation.

www.pwnbarcelona.net members@pwnbarcelona.net www.facebook.com/pwnbarcelona/

Pau Claris 151 T. 93 010 9758 info@coccinelle-agency.com www.coccinelle-agency.com

Yan Pekar - PHOTOGRAPHER

Oak House - SCHOOL

Photography for corporate events and portraits. Yan creates meaningful photography based on his ability to see beyond the obvious. His engaging photos capture key moments in a discrete way. Based in Barcelona. Working worldwide.

Founded in 1968, pupils at Oak House are taught according to the UK national curriculum in early years and primary education. Secondary pupils follow a multilingual programme, with a firm emphasis on English. Oak House offers IGCSE qualifications to help prepare students for university courses in English. The school also offers the International Baccalaureate Diploma Programme in English, as well as the National Bachillerato programme. The school’s modern installations are conducive to an active learning style. Their motto is ‘building futures’.

• Back-up kit. • Next day delivery. • Guaranteed results under low lighting. • Reliable. Responsible. On time.

M. 635 296 600 contact@yanpekar.photography www.yanpekar.photography

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Yacht Point Barcelona

Sant Pere Claver 12-18, 08017 T. 93 252 40 20 www.oakhouseschool.com

Handyman - HOME SErVICES

Geo Mac - COMPUTERS

Mark offers honest, transparent, efficient, English/Spanish/Swedish speaking handyman services. He can help you hang a mirror, paint a room, install reverse osmosis, hang blinds or curtains, do home repairs, assemble Ikea furniture and he can even fix up your place, assiting the process of retrieving your “fianza” from your landlord. Hourly rates. Real time updates.

George Cowdery is a freelance Mac technician who has been providing valuable support to the Mac community in Barcelona for over 15 years. Among the services he offers, George can help clients with maintenance and upgrades, hard drive replacement and ADSL setup. He can also provide consulting and tutorials according to his clients’ needs.

M. 645 691 475 mark@handymanbarcelona.com www.handymanbarcelona.com Facebook handymanbarcelona74

M. 606 308 932 machelp@geomac.es www.geomacbcn.com

1/30/18 11:45 AM

Language Surfing - LANGUAGE

Barcelona is your classroom and its streets are your books.

FIRST CLASS FOR FREE

Language Surfing is a revolutionary learning approach where students practice in real life situations and accelerate their learning by having lessons in real bars, parks & museums. Our teachers are native and professional, who love to explore the city with you, so you can take in the culture and practice in a fun and exciting environment. It’s the end of boring lessons!

Entença 34 enslo 1, 08015 Metro Rocafort M. 663 563 720 www.language-surfing.com

Fun Talk - LANGUAGE

6 EUROS PER HOUR

BCN L.I.P. - LANGUAGE SCHOOL

The Spanish courses at FunTalk offer an innovative and interactive approach to learning, emphasising communication and speaking. They believe in a student-centred classroom and are committed to making the learning experience motivating, memorable and, above all, fun. With the option of using the FunTalk Kitchen, students can integrate cooking activities, or even have conversation classes with a cup of coffee or glass of wine. Live it. Learn it. Love it.

BCN LIP language school is a small school located in the heart of the Gothic Quarter offering a wide variety of dynamic classes for those wishing to learn Spanish, Catalan, English, French, German, Portuguese, Russian, Italian, Japanese, Chinese and Hebrew. The courses are intensive and extensive, varying from four - 30 hours a week, Monday to Saturday. The teachers are qualified native speakers, with several years of experience. They also offer specialised summer programmes, excursions and cultural activities for the students. They can also help you with your student visa and finding a place to live.

Aragó 119 T. 93 782 3821 hello@funtalk.es www.funtalk.es

Avinyó 50, 08002 T. 93 318 6591 info@bcnlip.com www.bcnlip.com

CiberVirreina - COMPUTER SERVICE Open until 11pm every day of the week, they can repair your computer in 24/48 hours using well-tested procedures. Repairing software and hardware failures, saving your personal files and returning your computer fully operative. In addition to having internet access they

GRAPHIC DESIGN STUDIO

do printing, copying and binding jobs. D'Astúries 78 (Plaça de la Virreina, Gràcia). T. 93 368 5770 serviciocliente@cibervirreina.com

BritSat - SATELLITE TV Missing out on British TV? Not to worry. With their latest equipment, extensive experience and fantastic aftersales service, they provide all UK and European TV via satellite and Internet installations. So don’t miss out on all the summer sporting action, phone or email Britsat for a competitive quote and expert advice.

#mrsqdesignstudio

M. 649 605 917 info@britsatlive.com www.britsatlive.com

Ibex - INSUrANCE SErVICES Ibex have been in operation since 2000 and have grown to be one of the largest insurance providers for the expatriate community in Spain, Portugal and Gibraltar. They can insure your car, motorbike, home, pet, health, holiday home, boat, travel, business and provide funeral plans and more. ibexdirect@ibexinsure.com T. 900 102 527 www.ibexinsure.com

Mrs.Q Design Studio - GRAPHIC DESIGN Mrs.Q Design Studio offers a range of specialised design services. Their small business package includes branding, stationery design and advertising for print and web. They also design promotional material such as flyers, posters and brochures. Mrs. Q designs bespoke invitations for weddings and special occasions. Their designs are inspired by watercolour paintings merged with contemporary design. If you would like a custom painting, designed especially for you, they can create a design that you’re sure to love. Visit their Etsy shop to view her work www.etsy.com/shop/MrsQdesignstudio.

Connecta Languages - TrANSLATOrS Professional translation and proofreading services based in Barcelona. Performed by qualified linguists, at affordable rates and with quick turnaround. Contact them today and say goodbye to language barriers. M. 691 543 312 mlopez@connecta-languages.com Skype: mlopez_connecta www.connecta-languages. com

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mrsqdesignstudio@gmail.com www.mrsqdesignstudio.com Instagram #mrsqdesignstudio

1/30/18 11:45 AM

COACHING COLUMN

SAM SAYS...

CLEAR MIND, CLEAR DECISIONS Dear Sam, I’m trying not to be so calculated with my decision-making. I’m not a rash or impulsive person, which I think has served me well throughout my 40-plus years. That said, I’m starting to feel like I’m missing out on life. Instead of diving into things head first or taking on new challenges, I spend so much time weighing up the pros and cons that I often end up doing nothing. I’m not inactive, I just think I’d be exposed to more and learn more if I was able to go with the flow. We only live once and I don’t want to spend half my time contemplating if I’m making the right choices. However, I worry that if I think less, I’ll make decisions that might backfire or have negative consequences. Do you have any advice on how to let go a little—or a lot? Yours in contemplative procrastination, Trying to embrace the YOLO (you only live once)

The first thought that springs to my mind is: Why are you thinking about this now? As you said, being calculated has served you well for more than 40 years, so I wonder what has triggered you to start thinking this way. What would being less cautious do for you? Once you can answer this question, you’ll have a better idea of what a shift to the YOLO way of life might look like. The more clarity you have as to what you want to achieve, the easier it will be to focus your efforts. The next question is: What would make it easier for you to be less calculating? We’re all hardwired to deal with things in certain ways. This doesn’t mean that we can’t change; it just means that we have particular reactions to things and if we want to do things differently, it takes deliberate effort. Try to figure out what will allow you to ponder less and make decisions in a more carefree manner. Some people feel more confident knowing they have a plan B if things don’t work out. Others give themselves one night to sleep on an idea and force themselves to make a choice in the morning. Unfortunately,

there’s no ‘one size fits all’ solution for your dilemma. However, there are a few techniques that can help you in the decision-making process. 1. Create ‘focused unfocused’ time. There’s a reason so many of us have great ideas in the shower. It’s because we’re not focusing on anything in particular while shampooing our hair. Our minds are allowed to wander, and it’s during that time that we’re the most open to ideas and lateral ways of thinking. When we focus too much on the decision at hand, we restrict ourselves and don’t see all the possibilities. 2. Quiet the noise. Physical and mental clutter makes it difficult to think clearly. Go out for a walk, disconnect and switch up the environment. To further reduce mental noise, strip away everyone else’s views on the matter, shelve anything else you’re thinking about and just focus on yourself. 3. Go through the process. We often work things up so much in our heads that we overcomplicate the situation. Sometimes what helps is to start going through the motions of making a decision, while being conscious as to how it makes you feel. If everything feels okay, you know you’re doing the right thing.

By Ben Rowdon

SCOOP

Sam Mednick is a professional life and executive coach based in Barcelona (www.blueprintcoaching. ca). A Canadian native, she’s been living in the city for eight years working with companies as well as individuals focusing on transitions, communication, leadership training, time management and productivity as well as emotional intelligence development. For more coaching tips, tune into Sam’s podcast: blueprintcoaching.podomatic.com

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