Barcelona Metropolitan Issue 171 by Barcelona Metropolitan

APRIL 2011 | Nยบ 171 | Free

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Contents

April 2011

31. JOSH T PEARSON 26. BARCELONA VIEWS

Photo by Claudia Grassl

22. MONES

Features Standing up to Franco

Learning Catalan outside the classroom

Catalunya’s Easter treat

From the Senior Editor:

Regulars On our web

An inside look

The month

Columns

Interview: Eric L. Goode

M5: Views of the city

Food and drink—Reviews and more

Back page

DIRECTORIES Food & Drink

Marketplace

Waiting at the bus-stop for the number 43 a few years ago, an elderly lady appeared and asked me, in Catalan, whether such and such a bus had recently passed by. Oh I’m sorry, I replied in the same language, you’ve just missed it. Despite being the bearer of bad tidings, she thanked me profusely because I’d spoken to her in Catalan. The language plays a complicated role in today’s society. On the one hand, it courts controversy and criticism from some quarters over its usage. On the other, many Catalans have an unswerving attachment to it, determined to speak it on all possible occasions. One reason for this is doubtless knowledge of past efforts to suppress it—as Sara Blaylock explains, when Franco tried to quash it, citizens and organisations ran heavy risks to ensure the survival of their language and culture. While you may feel disinclined to learn Catalan, for any number of reasons, any skill you do acquire in it will be appreciated, as my bus-stop experience proves— Lauren Mannion provides ideas for getting going without having to be stuck in a classroom. Lastly, it’s been a long time coming, but Easter finally arrives this month, and Dylan Clive will have you drooling with his piece on the mones that are eaten here on Easter Monday. Hannah Pennell

Publisher Creative Media Group, S.L. Managing Director Esther Jones Senior Editor Hannah Pennell Editor Katy MacGregor Art Director Aisling Callinan Sales Director Rainer Hobrack Account Executive Richard Cardwell Marketing & Communication Manager Jade Anglesea Sales Assistant Clare Bleasdale Financial Assistant Kim Kalter Editorial Assistants Dylan Clive and Lucy Wright Design Assistant Santiago Amaya Contributors Jonathan Bennett, Sara Blaylock, Lucy Brzoska, Roger de Flower, Edward Hugh, Lauren Mannion, Tara Stevens and Nicola Thornton Photographers Lucy Brzoska and Lee Woolcock Cover illustration Kat Cameron Illustrators Kat Cameron and Ben Rowdon Editorial Office Enric Granados 48, entlo. 2ª, 08008 Barcelona. Tel. 93 451 4486, Fax. 93 451 6537; editorial@barcelona-metropolitan.com Sales: sales@barcelona-metropolitan.com. General enquiries: info@barcelona-metropolitan.com. www.barcelona-metropolitan.com Printer: Litografia Rosés. Depósito Legal: B35159-96 The views expressed in Barcelona Metropolitan are not necessarily those of the publisher. Reproduction, or use, of advertising or editorial content herein, without express permission, is prohibited.

Find your nearest distribution point on www.barcelona-metropolitan.com

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06 INTERNET

on our web... Interview: PS I Love You Contrary to what you might think this Canadian duo are not named after that dire Hilary Swank ﬁlm but take their moniker from an imagined fan club name for beardy frontman Paul Saulnier. P. S., get it? Anyway, these two have been turning the right sort of heads thanks to debut Meet Me at the Muster Station and we spoke to Paul ahead of their Barcelona gig this month at Sala KGB. www.barcelona-metropolitan. com/psiloveyou

Ask the Expert Ed Hamilton is a ﬁnancial and business coach whose company Greenbean works with individuals, entrepreneurs and small business owners to help them build their companies. For the months of April and May, Ed will be on hand as our resident ‘Expert’ so if you have a small business or are thinking of starting one and have any questions about marketing or business strategies, or are looking for ﬁnancial guidance then please get in touch. Email any questions you have to editorial@ barcelona-metropolitan.com

Sant Jordi

Win: A new look! Top hairdresser Anthony Llobet’s Englishspeaking salons have been like beacons in the night for those who don’t have the Castilian vocab to negotiate a good haircut. As well as being a scissor-wielding saviour to many a tongue-tied guiri he’s also Spain’s Ambassador Stylist for TREsemmé and an all-round nice guy. So nice in fact that he’s offering one lucky person the chance to win a complete makeover, including new colour and intensive conditioning treatment worth up to €115. To win all you have to do is answer the following question: What year did Anthony Llobet open his ﬁrst salon in Barcelona? Email readers@barcelona-metropolitan.com with your answer. Also read our interview with the man himself about his early life as a stylist in London and his work here as a top stylist. www.barcelona-metropolitan.com/ anthonyllobet

Love and literature combine on April 23rd when celebrations for Sant Jordi commence. The feast day for the patron saint of Catalunya is a big deal round here. The custom is that men give their lovers a rose while women present their partner with a book, but in this day and age I suspect you can throw tradition out the window and buy whatever for whoever. www.barcelona-metropolitan.com/ santjordi

www.barcelona-metropolitan.com Illustration by Santiago Amaya

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COVER 07

An inside look Illustrator Kat Cameron

was born and raised in South Africa, where I developed a fascination with travel and wildlife at a young age. After graduating from university, where I studied fine art, it wasn’t long before I grew wings and flew to Japan. There I learned origami and fashioned myself a paper boat with which I sailed to Barcelona with stops along the way in Myanmar and the Philippines. My art is inspired by my travels, and most of my artworks have a hidden story. I have illustrated children’s books and participated in numerous exhibitions across the world. One of my illustrations has been published by Monsa in Sweet Illustration and I wrapped up a successful solo art show at Sho Bcn in Gràcia at the beginning of the year. A photographer I like: Eugenio Recuenco, and I am extremely in awe of artist James Jean. A time of day: Afternoon, when the sun turns everything that perfect golden colour. A place in Barcelona: You can often find me at Estudio Shine (Montseny 3). It’s a guitar and piano studio, and I painted the mural on the terrace walls. An essential item: my Wacom tablet and camera. The cover: I guess you can say it’s a sketch of me in an imaginary place in Barcelona. The image is comprised of various photo references, so it’s actually not a place in real life, but since most of my illustrations draw on the imagination, I think it’s a good combination of me in Barcelona: this is me enjoying a strong café americano on a terrace with some pigeons, somewhere in the city...

www.katcameron.com Limited edition prints of Kat’s work are available to buy on her website

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08 THE MONTH

Try it on

Despite its policy of never advertising, the popularity of the casual streetwear brand Superdry has grown remarkably quickly over the past year or two. Although it has Asian overtones, the brand in actual fact hails from Cheltenham and is the baby of James Holder and ex-barrow boy Julian Dunkerton, who struck it lucky when they sent David Beckham a jacket on the off-chance he’d wear it. He did and within a month Primark had made a knock-off that in turn became a best-seller. Pitched between preppy Abercrombie & Fitch and Jack Wills, Superdry is beloved of the 20-30-year-old male who likes to shirk the suit and don casual t-shirts and hoodies of a weekend. But with a new focus on the previously under-developed women’s line, Superdry is now starting to attract the wives and girlfriends too. In a country where nobody seems to get dressed up, opening their first Spanish store in here at the beginning of April will surely be another good move on the part of the ex-market boys. Superdry, Calle Provenza 253.

April

Fashion

In a new column, fashion writer Vera Ciria talks us through what’s on her Barcelona style radar.

As the worldwide focus on fashion slowly retreats into the background after the madness of international fashion weeks, here in Barcelona the mystery remains as to what will happen with 080 Barcelona Fashion. It’s heartbreaking to see the struggle that Spanish fashion designers face. Back in 1974, Franco’s desire to lay down a luxury tax meant that Spanish couture was practically wiped out with one fell swoop. Things were pretty rocky until 1984 when the Gaudí Association, first for menswear then for women, was created. It wouldn’t be until 1991 that the two sectors would join forces and become known as the Passarel·la Gaudí. However, due to politics and lack of funding, in 2005 the Passarel·la Gaudí came to a bitter end and fashion designers started heading to Madrid’s Cibeles Fashion show. Passarel·la Barcelona, the next venture lasted a mere three seasons! 080 Barcelona Fashion, propelled by the plan to energise Catalan fashion, has been working hard at once again placing the spotlight on the city’s emerging fashion talents. Since July 2007, each season has seen a great collection of designers present their garments on the runway. But not everything can stay perfect for long. The Catalan regional elections were held last November and with the new government have come big budget cuts. With a confirmed 25 percent slash of culture funds, the government is now slavering at the mouth to get at the almost two million euros destined for promoting the fashion industry in Cataluyna. It seems unbelievable that politics are once again the defining

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factor in fashion’s future. One proposal being bandied about is the union of 080 and The Brandery, which would be an atrocious mess; the marriage of creative talent with pure commercial trade. No wonder our designers ﬂee to Madrid. There is one more edition of 080 Barcelona Fashion programmed for this July and then? Who knows. After so much hard work, toiling away at their dreams, Barcelona’s current fashion designers may come away empty-handed. Yes, there will be those that will say “But it’s only fashion”. But all of this is just symptomatic of deeper problems that affect each one of us in our daily lives.

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A novel idea

THE MONTH 09

If you’re one of the many people who believe the old adage that everyone has a book in them then this course just might get it out of you and on paper. Professional writer and publisher of numerous short stories and novels Anne Aylor aims to coax that best-seller out of you with two intensive six-day courses based in a picturesque masia near Girona. With topics covering characterisation, editing, plot and setting, you’re bound to learn a thing or two about what makes a good novel. With afternoons free, exclusive use of the pool and catering provided, the relaxing atmosphere at the Torre de Dalt might just be enough to jump-start that creativity. So you Want to Write a Novel runs from June 9th until 16th and Write Now! from June 17th to 23rd. See website for more details. www.anneaylor.co.uk

Tune in to the sound of spring With a plethora of great bands playing at this year’s Primavera Sound, what better way to get you in the mood for the first big festival of the year than tuning in to hear the best tracks and interviews from the top headliners? With acts including Interpol, Belle & Sebastian, Caribou and Flaming Lips all appearing, could the Primavera Sound radio station possibly have one of the best playlists around? www.scannerfm.com

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COLUMNS 11

Money talk

Wild Barcelona Text and photos by Lucy Brzoska

Vallvidrera boar

Boar hoof print

Mud, glorious mud

f the showers fall as they should, Collserola is sticky with mud in April. None are happier than the boars, for whom summer, with its hard dusty ground, is the season of scarcity. In spring, the soft wet earth yields easily to their restless muscular snouts, as they dig in search of roots and invertebrates. Signs of their energetic ploughing are everywhere as you walk around Collserola. This mixing of soil layers can be beneficial for plants, but only up to a point. The decline of Collserola’s orchids has been blamed on the booming boar population (given as 900 and rising). The layer upon layer of hoof prints visible after the rain is a graphic reminder of how numerous they’ve become. Mud is also for wallowing. Near Vallvidrera, there’s a stream that almost never dries up. Even at the end of summer, a trickle finds its way down to the catchment area of the reservoir. Judging by the signs, boars visit the spot in large numbers. Looking at the steep, well-worn path among the trees you can imagine wild nighttime scenes, as bristly hulks come galloping down, landing straight in the mud pit. After a soak and a roll, it’s time for a scrub. Many of the nearby trees are thickly slathered with scraped-off mud: if you look closely, you can see bristles caught on the bark. If there is no handy tree near a wallow, a rock or an iron pylon will do. For animals without sweat glands, this is a pleasurable way to keep cool and clean, as well as dislodge any tenacious ticks, to which boars are particularly prone. If pine trees are rubbed vigorously enough, the secreted resin provides an additional anti-parasite treatment. And during the mating season (mainly in autumn, but also in late summer), the males scent the mud and make their presence known on strategic landmarks.

Lucy Brzoska runs nature tours and writes for www.iberianature.com

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By Edward Hugh

Edward Hugh is a British Barcelona-based macro economist; in this column, he explains some of the current ins and out of the local economy.

The Worst is Now Behind Us?

he 18th-century philosopher Leibniz was famed for his optimism, declaring that we live in the “best of all possible worlds”, which is a hard notion to swallow in light of recent events. Of course, the worst, we are assured, all now lies behind us, whether we are talking about Japan or the Spanish financial crisis, but something somewhere continues to irk me about that statement. Curiously Spain and Japan have many things in common. They both had a substantial housing bubble that subsequently burst, they both have rapidly ageing populations, and they both have governments with a tendency to claim things are getting better when they manifestly aren’t. Another thing Japan and Spain have in common is their exposure to the impact of Murphy’s law. In both cases, it seems, if something can go wrong, it will. Actually this proclivity is simply a consequence of another common trait: stretching things to their limit. The latest example in the Spanish case emerged last month, following Jean-Claude Trichet’s comments about the European Central Bank’s monetary policy. “The position of the Governing Council is that an increase in interest rates at the next meeting is possible,” he informed astonished journalists. The problem with this latest initiative is not only that it constitutes something akin to a chronicle of an early death foretold for a highly fragile Spanish economy, where around 90 percent of mortgages are variable rate ones. It also draws attention to an area that it would be much better for the European Central Bank (ECB) not to focus on at right now: the inconvenience of having a single size monetary policy applied to such a diverse group of economies. Somehow this issue had managed to drop under the radar since the start of the current crisis, but now this inept step from the ECB risks putting the problem back at the heart of the Eurozone debate. Former Irish Premier John Bruton has already openly accused the ECB of having fuelled the Irish housing bubble. Now the ECB risks generating a bout of ire in Spain, with many asking where all this vigilance was when their construction boom was starting. So returning to my original comparison, in many ways it appears that Japan is blazing a trail that Spain seems destined to follow. Naturally this comparison does not extend to Japan’s recent nuclear problems, although ironically the impact of these might save Spain from the immediate blow of that threatened ECB rate rise. If you ask the Spanish government, they will tell you “Spain is not another Japan”. Unfortunately this is another good example of something that doesn’t automatically become true simply by being repeated often enough. In order for it to become true, something needs to be done, and we are all still waiting for that ‘something’.

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INTERVIEW 13

Eric L. Goode English teacher and astrologer, US, 57

Born in Mississippi and later raised in Phoenix, Eric studied fashion and worked as a warehouse boy, a radio show host, a dresser and accessories buyer to the stars, and an accountant for The Album Network in LA before coming to Barcelona in 1983, where he teaches English and works in films. His passion for astrology started at the age of 14. I remember one day I was in the library and came across a book that was a combination of astronomy and mythology, signs and things like that. It fascinated me so I started collecting everybody’s birth information for my own personal interest. I spent hours with it and got deeper and deeper into it over the years. I was a bit of a wild child. I left home at 16, hitch-hiked around California (in the days before you might be picked up by Freddy), and went to LA to study fashion but I became disenchanted with that. I decided I wanted to be famous by the time I was 21. Armed with the idea from Goethe that there is genius in boldness, I walked into LA’s most famous radio station and asked them for a job. The boss, Shadoe Stevens, asked me what I did so I explained my idea of doing an astrology show in the mornings, where I’d do a reading and take calls. I started on the 12th January…my 21st birthday. I became quite well known and it was what I was looking for at that time. I attracted lots of wonderful people, but also a lot of nuts! I started being interviewed for eclipses by the TV stations and doing talk shows about astrology, but there came a point where I was getting calls in the middle of the night and I thought: “That’s not what I’m into. I’m not into predicting how to win the lottery or when you’re going to meet your first love.” I had a different orientation. After moving back to Phoenix for a while, and working at the TV station there, I moved back to LA and in my late 20s, started as a mail boy at The Album Network. When the credit controller quit, I asked the

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boss if I could have a go. They said “Now Eric…” but I said, “Listen, pay me the same as you pay me as a mail boy for three months, and I’ll do both jobs and then we can talk about a raise.” It was great: we expanded, I met stars like Bryan Adams and I interviewed Stevie Wonder. I used to go to all the concerts in a limousine and had a fabulous apartment on Hollywood Boulevard, a big red sports car and a big salary. After a few years, I came to the conclusion that I didn’t want my claim to be that at the age of 60 I would know every song by every artist, so I decided to pursue another aspiration, which was writing. I arrived in Madrid on a four-month visa at a time when being gay was the craze. I soon moved to Barcelona because I know a lot of people here, and it was so alive, boisterous and full of vitality. I loved that the people were so dramatic. I remember a friend having a go at a waiter who told him he couldn’t eat his ice cream in Café de l’Opera. He just threw it on the floor! I had not seen that anywhere else. Astrology helps give meaning to the things that happen, in a positive way. I come from a nature angle. Science is a hungry beast and wants to be the solution to everything, but there is so much you can’t measure or control. Fifty thousand years of being conscious human beings doesn’t erase three billion years of programming at the cellular level that our selves are accustomed to the earth revolving round the sun. My favourite place nowadays is my home, although I did use to pay the salaries of quite a few people in the bars! I love the Santa Caterina market, better than the Boqueria. Honest, great people who are above board with you. I guess my most illuminating moment was realising that one of the most important things is what you have with people, and not anything else. Because then you can sit back and have your memories of what you did together. Interview by Nicola Thornton. Photo by Lee Woolcock.

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14 CATALAN UNDER FRANCO

Against all odds

For almost 40 years, Catalan culture and institutions were officially suppressed by the Franco regime. How did they survive? By Sara Blaylock.

hen General Francisco Franco declared the end of the Spanish Civil War on April 1st, 1939, he also abolished the autonomous government of Catalunya. The assets of the Generalitat were seized and Provincial Councils established to the effect of depriving Catalans of their national institutions and democratic rights. Among his most oppressive policies, Franco prohibited the use of the Catalan language in any public context and established systematic measures to otherwise destroy Catalan history, culture and identity. El Generalísimo was determined to punish the region for its stalwart Republican opposition during the war. Between 1939 and 1953, the dictator’s fraudulent war councils convicted and executed 3,585 people who fought with Catalunya’s Republican front, including Lluís Companys, the last President of the Generalitat during the Civil War. Tens of thousands more were imprisoned or interned in work camps. Franco’s repressions weakened and smothered Catalunya, especially in the vitriolic years that immediately followed the war. By all appearances, culturally and economically, the region lay barren. However, when Franco died in 1975, Catalans were well-prepared to reassert their cultural and political heritage thanks to the determination of certain figures footer.pdf

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and organisations to ensure the survival of their language, culture and way of life. One reason why Catalans were able to rise above Franco’s obstacles was historical experience. As Jordina Boix of Òmnium Cultural, a Catalan language and culture centre in Barcelona, explained: “If you think about Catalan suppression, you have to look back 300 years, to the War of Succession.” In the aftermath of this war, a two-century quashing of Catalan autonomy, language and culture began, against which Catalans railed, resisting the oppression as best they could. Following Franco’s victory in 1939, many intellectuals and artists fled Catalunya, choosing exile over the risk of arrest or execution. Rather than turn their back on their homeland, though, Catalans in Europe and America sustained their culture abroad, maintaining tradition, as well as cultivating creative and intellectual discourse in the context of their new environs. Noteworthy were the editorial journals and magazines which published in Catalan, including Edicions Proa, a literary business established in 1928 in Badalona and transplanted to Perpignan after the war. Texts produced by Proa and others, though prohibited, arrived through underground systems to the hands of intellectuals in Catalunya. Among the most famous Catalan ambassadors of culture, Joan Miró and Salvador Dalí produced prolifically, offering glimpses into the Cata-

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Exhibition organised for Sant Jordi in 1974 to celebrate 500 years of Catalan books. Image courtesy of Òmnium Cultural

lan creative ethos otherwise hidden by the blanket Franco threw over the country. Though Dalí eventually supported Franco, Miró maintained his pro-Catalan perspective and identity throughout his career. Among the painter’s most powerful works are the antifranquista ‘Burnt Canvases’, a dark and violent series that bears little resemblance to the painter’s typical use of bright colours and abstraction. At a political level, during Franco’s 36-year rule, the Catalan Generalitat continued from afar. Established in France, the government was led first by Josep Irla and, from 1954, Josep Tarradellas as presidents in exile. After the dictator’s death, Tarradellas returned home to govern Catalunya from 1977 to 1980. Of course, the campaign to keep Catalan culture alive was carried out with as much resolve here as abroad, even if local efforts often needed to use more secretive or cunning methods. Although Franco made it illegal for Catalans to publically assemble or associate for the cause of culture or language, assemble they did. For example, Òmnium Cultural, established in 1961, dodged the law for a few years by naming themselves Omnium Cultural, using the very similar Latin spelling. The group was well established by the time the army raided and shut down the operation in 1963. It continued its projects clandestinely until 1967, when Franco began to relax his restrictions and the centre reopened publicly.

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As well as such organisations, individual citizens also defied Franco. Writers and artists gathered at private homes and businesses to discuss politics and enjoy their heritage in secret. Within local mythology, Josep Vicenç (J.V.) Foix, a journalist and Avant-Garde poet, exemplifies the lengths to which this resistance movement went to preserve their culture. Owner of the two Foix bakeries in Sarrià, the poet used his pastisseries to host poetry readings and philosophical debates. Current owner and Foix’s cousin, Jordi Madern, proudly displays a painting Miró created for his cousin and passionately shares anecdotes about the poet. Among the most illustrative accounts is the story of how, when Guardia Civil agents came to arrest him for his nationalist beliefs shortly after the war, Foix disguised himself in pastry flour and evaded detention. The proprietor, he fibbed, had fled to France that very morning. Support for the Catalan cause also came from more surprising quarters. While the Catholic church typically supported Franco, even in Catalunya, the antifranquista movement experienced some of its greatest successes in alliance with the church. Whereas Catalan cultural or linguistic associations were illegal, religious gatherings did not face such restrictions. Christian groups—like the Cristians Catalans, a group of young Catalans founded in 1954 and led by future Generalitat president Jordi Pujol—organised political meetings, printed subversive texts and

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16 CATALAN UNDER FRANCO

coordinated protests in support of the Catalan cause. Montserrat’s Benedictine monks, led by Abbot Aureli Maria Escarré, illegally produced a Catalan translation of the Bible and initiated sermons in Catalan. A few churches in Barcelona followed suit, which in one notorious case had significant knock-on effects. On June 21st, 1959, Luis Martínez de Galinsoga, director of La Vanguardia newspaper, attended mass at the church of Sant Ildefons in Barcelona. Shocked by a Catalan portion of the Benediction during the service, Galinsoga exclaimed “Todos los Catalanes son una mierda!” (“All Catalans are shit!”). Widespread protests, partially coordinated by the Cristians Catalans, followed and the paper lost 20,000 subscribers by early 1960, with its print run falling to 30,000 copies. After Galinsoga denied saying the insult, protests intensified. In February 1960, Manual Aznar took Galinsoga’s place at the paper. In May 1960, shortly after ‘el caso Galinsoga’ and with Franco’s permission, Barcelona celebrated the 100th anniversary of Joan Maragall, an important Modernista poet. A concert in the Palau de la Música was scheduled to include, among other works by the poet, a choral recitation of Cant de la Senyera (Song of the Catalan Flag), a patriotic hymn. Though already printed in the programme, Franco prohibited the song. During the concert, musicians were instructed to ignore the inclusion. At the relevant point in the programme, however, the audience banded together and sang, and protestors distributed copies of an anti-government pamphlet, titled Us presentem el General Franco (We present General Franco to you). Franco witnessed the defiance, which became known as ‘Els fets del Palau’ (‘The events at the Palau’). His army detained 20 people, including Pujol and the pamphlet’s printer Francesc Pizón. The future president served seven years; Pizón served three. These two events strengthened anti-Franco sentiment and marked the beginning of the end for the regime’s stronghold on Catalunya. By the late Sixties, Franco’s power had begun to diminish. Restrictions eased and politicians began to organise for the eventuality of the dictator’s death. When el Generalísimo did finally die on November 20th, 1975, Catalunya celebrated and then got down to reestablishing its democracy. The rebuilding was gradual, but resolute. Groups like Òmnium Cultural offered classes in Catalan. Proa returned to its homeland to print. President Pujol re-acclimatised his people to their language. Today, Catalan pride flourishes as Foix presaged in his 1939 poem El Meu País és un Roc...

J.V. Foix in 1954. Image courtesy of the archive of the Fundació J.V. Foix

EL MEU PAÍS ÉS UN ROC...

MY COUNTRY IS A ROCK...

Lliberats, i durs, amb alous,

Freedmen, tough, with freeheld land

Llur fona en rosa de cercles

In a circle of rhumbs their slingshot

Colpia el menhir dels segles

Smote the centuries’ menhir

En una tardor de bous.

In an autumn of oxen.

Oh mels pures del paratge!

O, the pure honeys of that spot!

Recobrar, dels meus, la imatge, To rediscover my people’s image Aigua enllà de l’hort furtiu,

Water beyond the furtive garden,

Molls de rou de la caverna,

Wet with dew from the cavern,

Hereus de la nit eterna

Eternal night’s heirs

Amb els astres per caliu!

With the stars for glowing ashes! (translation by David H. Rosenthal, 1988)

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LEARNING CATALAN 19

Talk of the town

Learning Catalan doesn’t have to mean being stuck in a classroom. By Lauren Mannion. Illustration by Kat Cameron.

rriving in Catalunya, it’s easy to see Catalan as nothing more than an inconvenience, even an obstruction to your Castilian skills. But for anyone wanting to fit in and understand Catalan culture, speaking Catalan is useful, if not vital. Luckily, you should soon find that a little goes a very long way; even memorising a few phrases is often enough to impress, and certainly makes you feel like less of a clueless guiri. But be warned, once you get the Catalan bug, it might be hard to shake off. After all, the most ordinary of Catalan words are laden with mouth-filling, tongue-twisting pleasure, from the juicy papallona (butterfly) and farmaciola (first-aid kit) to the joyful sybillance of xiuxiuejar (to whisper). And who could fail to love the touchingly tender verb acaronar (to lovingly pull someone close, protect and caress them), virtually untranslatable in its subtlety and recently voted as Catalans’ favourite word in newspaper El Periódico de Catalunya. OK, so maybe Catalan has its advantages, but learning any new language takes times and effort. So what are the best ways to get started? There’s always the Generalitat’s free basic courses, but timetables and places are limited, and besides, going back to school isn’t for everyone. We take a look at some alternative ways to get to grips with Catalan. Reading It might seem a bit of a slog to read in Catalan, but if you’re already comfortable reading in Castilian, why not try El Periódico de Catalunya, which publishes twin editions daily in Castilian and Catalan (as will La Vanguardia from next month). A couple of euros will buy you both versions, perfect for a leisurely few hours comparing the two languages while getting your fill of current affairs. If fiction is more your thing, be sure to pick up a copy of All Angles, a brand new two-volume anthology of short stories published this month by Arola Editors. Each of the two books contains seven original short stories printed side by side in English and Catalan, making

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it easy to keep track of what’s going on even if your Catalan isn’t the best. More than two years in the making, the books arose from various creative writing groups around Catalunya. All of the authors are based here, some born-and-bred Catalans and others more recent arrivals, while each story is connected to the region through its themes or characters. Stories were written in English and translated

The most ordinary of Catalan words are laden with mouth-filling, tongue-twisting pleasure. into Catalan by a team of dedicated translators, who gave up their time for free. They even persuaded Catalan broadcasting legend and TV3’s Washington correspondent Antoni Bassas to provide the foreword. The first volume, ‘Big Magic’ (€15), is out this month to coincide with Sant Jordi, while the second should make the perfect stocking-filler come Christmas 2011.

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20 LEARNING CATALAN

LangUage eXCHange/TiMe BanK Most foreigners living in Barcelona have tried a language exchange at some point during their stay. After all, exchanges are easy to set up with workmates or friends, or by trawling through the thousands of online ads on Loquo or LingoBongo, but such casual exchanges are just as easy to neglect. So if your willpower is waning, you could try signing up for an official language exchange through Voluntariat per la Llengua. This offshoot of the Consorci Per la Normalització Lingüística (CPNL or Language Policy Association, which organises the Generalitat’s free Catalan classes) takes note of when you’re free and pairs you up with a volunteer. CPNL centres also organise regular group meet-ups and activities for voluntaris, such as discounted cinema tickets or countryside walks. The Voluntariat demands a minimum commitment of an hour a week over 10 weeks, although of course you can do more if you’re keen. Kicked off in 2002 by just 38 volunteers in Cornellà del Llobregat, in 2010 the scheme saw more than 10,000 pairs take part. Over the years, Catalan actors and politicians have rubbed shoulders with language learners in the 52,248 couples that have successfully participated. If all that sounds a little too regimented, the flexibility of a Time Bank may hold more appeal. Celebrating 10 years in Barcelona this year, Banc del Temps was originally set up as a support system exclusively for women, but the idea quickly expanded into a project promoting the exchange of skills within communities. It was piloted in the Horta-Guinardó district, and that first centre has since been joined by Time Banks in Gràcia, Ciutat Vella and Raval, among others. We’ve all heard the old expression ‘time is money’, but in a Banc del Temps, an hour of your time really is currency. The basic idea is that of community volunteering, doing anything from taking a dog for a walk, tutoring a child in English or picking up prescriptions for an elderly person. But for every hour you give, you earn an hour’s credit, to be spent on whatever other people are offering—which could easily include Catalan classes. A neat way of doing your bit and getting back more than just a warm glow.

man, this colourful website offers free Catalan-learning resources. If you need some extra motivation, €90 will get you an online tutor to help you through the course. After you sign up, you can take a short test to assess your level, then you can choose a course and browse through the site’s catalogue of exercises to help you perfect your grammar, reading, writing and listening. Even better, visit Parla’s ‘virtual Rambla’, which offers a huge range of Catalan newspapers and radio stations online, music and video clips with transcriptions to follow, interactive games and a chat where you can practise your newfound skills with other learners. And if all that still sounds like too much effort, why not put your laziness to good use with a bit of language practice as you lounge in front of the telly? Catalunya’s main television channels TV3 and 33 are known for high-quality documentaries and decent comedy—at least, compared to the rest of Spanish television’s mirthless slapstick. Watch out for the chaotic current affairs and entertainment roundup Alguna Pregunta Més? (‘Any More Questions?’), and the Spitting Image-style caricatures of the politics-themed Polònia and its sporting counterpart, Crackòvia. Catalan subtitles should be available on all programmes (and some even have English subtitles), and if it’s still too hard to follow, the digital TV signal means you can switch to original-language audio for any foreign shows. Watching The IT Crowd or The Inbetweeners in English with Catalan subtitles might seem like the easy option, but it will at least teach you a few choice items of vocabulary. You never know when a couple of Catalan swear words might come in handy! MORe inFO... Consorci Per la Normalització Lingüística—for details about the Generalitat’s Catalan courses, visit www.cpnl.cat Voluntariat per la Llengua—sign up for an intercanvi at www.vxl.cat Banc del Temps—find contact information about the different neighbourhood ‘banks’ on www.bcn.cat TV3—www.tv3.cat

inTeRneT and TV If you prefer the idea of learning in the comfort of your own home, try the parla.cat website, backed by the Generalitat, Institut Ramon Llull and the CPNL. Available in Castilian, English, French and Ger-

All Angles 1: Big Magic

Paul Connell · David Gary · Georgina Tremayne

BOOK GIVEAWAY Big Magic M gic All Angles 1 pròleg d’Antoni

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assessora lingüística: Susana Solanes i Ricart

To help you on your way to Catalan fluency (or thereabouts), we have two copies of the first volume of All Angles to give away. To be entered into the prize draw, just tell us what your favourite Catalan word is and why. Send your entries to: editorial@barcelona-metropolitan.com or All Angles

Competition, Editorial Dept, Creative Media Group SL, Enric Granados 48, 08008 Barcelona. Don’t forget to include your contact details and make sure that your submission is here by April 20th. Bona sort!

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3/23/11 12:32:29 PM

All Smiles In todayʼs society having great looking teeth denotes youthfulness and promotes our social and business status. If youʼre looking to make yourself more marketable for your career or more attractive to the opposite sex, teeth whitening just might help give you that boost of conﬁdence and self-esteem you need. Pro Blanco is the ﬁrst and only clinic dedicated solely to professional teeth whitening in Barcelona. The licensed dentists and hygienists will help guide you through the options of carrying out your treatment either at the clinic or at home. Boil-n-bite trays or cheap imitations have a high tendency to cause sensitivity or produce little or no results. Over ninety percent of people are candidates for teeth whitening but should ask a professional which treatment is best for them, which will save money and what are the potential problems. Clinical treatments will produce immediate results within an hour

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using a laser and whitening gel. At-home treatments are done by the patient using a fabricated mould of their teeth. The necessary whitening materials and detailed instructions are given by the clinic and they can expect to see results in one to two weeks. Whitening is achieved through a process of oxidation when carbamide peroxide, a material in the whitening gel, breaks down. Stains from the enamel are removed leaving the enamel unharmed. The biggest concern people have is if itʼs safe for the teeth. Jeremy from Pro Blanco says, “The treatments when done correctly are perfectly safe. We inspect the mouth and ask questions before any treatment is started to make sure the patient is a suitable candidate for treatments. We take special care to thoroughly inform them of what to expect during and after each treatment to make certain they have a great experience.”

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If you are interested in teeth whitening Pro Blanco is located on Carrer Tuset 17 and more information is on their web page.

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3/23/11 1:10:15 PM

22 MONES

Easter eats

Catalans have long celebrated Easter with the giving of mones, although their form has metamorphosed over the centuries. By Dylan Clive.

n this modern age of scientific and technological efficiencies, there is something charmingly primitive about Easter being a moveable feast, held on the first Sunday after the paschal full moon. This year the lunar marvel has kept everybody waiting and it’s not until April 24th that Easter festivities can finally begin after the abstinence of Lent. For many this is a spiritual occasion celebrating the resurrection of Jesus Christ and fittingly marked with a religious service and prayers. For others, Easter rituals may include hysterical children hunting the chocolate trail of the Easter Bunny, self-deniers gorging themselves on items given up for the previous 40 days and in Catalunya, godparents giving godchildren their traditional mona de Pasqua. Beginners in Catalan would be right in thinking that this festive treat can literally be translated as ‘Easter monkey’; however, the word ‘mona’ actually exists in both Latin and Arabic, where it means gift or present. Dating back to the 15th century, this culinary delight originally took the form of a tortell de brioix (round brioche cake) and was inspired by the days of fasting preceding Easter Sunday. During this Lent period, representing the time Jesus spent in the desert resisting temptation from Satan, Catholics were forbidden from eating meat and eggs. Instead, the eggs were collected to make celebratory cakes that would then be eaten to bring an end to the gastronomic abstinence. The traditional shape of these cakes was large and circular, similar to that of a sizeable doughnut and it would often contain hardboiled eggs around the edge. Nowadays hardboiled eggs have been replaced with chocolate ones and a mona de Pasqua can come in all manner of shapes and sizes. Each year, pastisseries across the city plan their creations for months in advance of Easter, setting delicate moulds and eagerly working Stack of chocolate eggs—design by Oriol Balaguer

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MONES 23

to put rival window displays of the finished products to shame. The chocolaty fruits of their labour are now droolingly clear to see, none more so than at the legendary Foix de Sarrià. The pastisseria is caked in history and this year marks its 125th anniversary. Amongst others, Spanish royalty have sampled goods from the shop, which belongs to the family of Surrealist poet and journalist Josep Vicenç Foix, who once ran it. The mones de Pasqua in the window range from the more traditional round cake to contemporary takes on the ancient Easter tradition. Movie stars, footballers, cartoon characters and your very own personalised mona are now all readily available upon request. Although the baking of a cake has gradually been replaced by a chocolate sculpture, there are still aspects of this annual indulgence that have not changed. It has always been the custom for a godparent to give a mona de Pasqua to their godchild on Easter Sunday and this remains the same today. The number of eggs on a mona corresponds to the age

of the godchild but unfortunately this ritual doesn’t continue into later life. No matter how much of a child you are, a mona will never have less than two or more than 12 eggs on it. More than simply a testament to age, the significance of the egg also has a deeper sacred meaning that shop assistant Albert Madern was eager to point out. “La mona de Pasqua is a spiritual tradition unique to Catalunya. Each egg represents a year of life but they also embody the idea of birth, which is why they are given on Easter Sunday, the day Christ rose from the dead.” Albert’s uncle, Jordi Madern, is the owner of Foix de Sarrià, while another uncle, Oriol Madern, is the pastelero in charge of constructing both the beautiful chocolate shapes and the traditional cakes. “There is no special ingredient needed to make them. Flour, sugar, eggs, they are all made of the same thing. The secret is in the imagination of the pastelero. It is his skill and inventiveness that will decide whether it is the perfect mona,” revealed Albert, unwilling to let any family secrets slip. A good thing too, because this 15th-century practice is showing little sign of fading. Almost inevitably, the Easter tradition has become far more marketable in recent

The word ‘mona’ exists in both Latin and Arabic, where it means gift. A plane made entirely of chocolate—design by Foix de Sarrià

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24 MONES

years, losing some of its religious meaning to popular culture influences. “What was once a Catholic tradition has become more commercialised and people care more about the amazing variations in colour and design as opposed to the original holy significance,” Albert admitted. However, this has arguably allowed the mona de Pasqua to develop and stay relevant to people today— annual competitions to judge the best and largest mones continue to draw media coverage. “The mona de Pasqua definitely has a future. It’s more than a tradition, it’s a part of being Catalan,” explained Merche Baluda, assistant at the distinguished shop of Oriol Balaguer. In the world of the chocolatier, Senyor Balaguer is not one to be messed with. He was named the ‘Best Pastry Chef in Spain’ in 2008 and at one stage held the enviable distinction of creating the ‘Best Dessert in the World’. The delicate creations in his store are more than just a sweet sensation; they have a class and sophistication about them that exude an aura of sumptuous luxury. Take a look at the window display and you are essentially gazing upon chocolate poetry. “Oriol and his team carefully design each mona and will make small changes and adjustments until they are completely satisfied,” explained Merche. That’s partly why one of the larger mones on display will set you back around €100, not that that has stopped some famous Catalan faces from sampling these delights. Apparently even the healthconscious players of FC Barcelona find the work of Oriol Balaguer as irresistible as the next person. Once the mones have been bought and formally handed over on Easter Sunday, there is one more night of waiting before consumption and general feasting can begin. Easter Monday in Catalunya is therefore commonly referred to as ‘el dia de la mona’ and in the past represented the day when families would come together to heartily eat and drink. A lunch of lamb, rabbit or rice dishes would usually be followed by a walk in the countryside where the children could spend the afternoon playing and (finally!) eating their mona de Pasqua. In the days of hardboiled eggs baked around the outside, the custom was to crack the eggs in front of another person before laying siege to the Easter cake. Nowadays, the incredible designs and wonderfully edible sculptures make mones almost too good to eat—‘almost’ being the key word. Easter and feasting just seem to go hand in hand, so whether you’re having a traditional circular cake or a modern, life-size chocolate figure of Messi: happy eating and happy Easter.

Opera House—design by Oriol Balaguer

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Creative Passion 3/23/11 12:33:36 PM

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3/23/11 12:28:59 PM

26 M FIVE

five

Where to get great views of the city. By Dylan Clive.

MIRADOR DE COLÓM. Take the hidden lift 60 metres up to the viewing platform and become king or queen of La Rambla. Enjoy a special view of the Gothic Quarter, Mediterranean Sea and Montjuïc, all from the site where Columbus returned to Spain after his 1493 voyage to the Americas. Opened in 1888, the Columbus Monument is now a favourite Barcelona landmark. Pl. Portal de la Pau Open every day—10am-6pm Lift up to viewing platform: €4

CABLE CARS. Barcelona has two cable cars for the strong of stomach: one running from Sant Sebastià beach across the old port area up to the Miramar Hotel on Montjuïc, and the other on Montjuïc up to the castle. The cabins can take up to 19 and eight people respectively and offer spectacular views of the city. Just don’t look down. SANT SEBASTIÀ: As well as the tower at the end of Passeig Joan de Borbó, you can also jump aboard by the World Trade Centre. Until June—10.30am to 7pm; during the rest of the year, closing times vary Return: €12.50 (children up to 6 go free) MONTJUÏC: Avinguda de Miramar (connects with funicular from Paral·lel metro) April and May—10am-7pm; during the rest of the year, closing times vary Adult return: €9; Child return: €6.50

Discover more places for AMAZING VIEWS on our website: www.barcelona-metropolitan.com/CITYVIEWS

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M FIVE 27

COLLSEROLA. Let’s talk numbers: Parc Collserola, the lungs of the city, measures over 8,000 hectares, 22 times the size of Central Park in New York, and holds more than 1,000 documented plants. At its highest point, near Tibidabo, it stands at 512 metres high. It is said that over 50 percent of the population of Catalunya lives no more than 10 kilometres away, and as it boasts 11 viewing-points you really have no excuse not to take in the fantastic views. Information Centre—Ctra. de l’Església 92 Ferrocarrils de la Generalitat de Catalunya: Vallvidrera, Avda Tibidabo or Peu del Funicular stations will all drop you in the park Tel. 93 280 3552 From 10am until dusk www.parcnaturalcollserola.cat

MONTJUÏC. Atop Montjuïc, you are essentially perched at the summit of the city. On a clear day practically every Barcelona landmark is visible from the Sagrada Família to the Torre Agbar. If the eyes aren’t as good as they used to be, then telescopes are on hand to provide a closer look. Montjuïc is also the site of several old fortifications so you can take in the sights and have a history lesson. To get to the top of Montjuïc, take the metro to Espanya (L1 and L3) then be prepared to walk. Alternatively, buses 50 and 55, and the Bus Turístic, will drop you near the top.

LAS GOLONDRINAS. The wildcard of this month’s best views. Swap vertigo for aquaphobia as the golondrinas take you for a sea view of Barcelona. The typical tour lasts 35 minutes and takes you on a trip round the harbour—this port side perspective gives the camera enthusiast a whole new angle of the city and is sure to add an extra dimension to your landscape snaps. In front of the Columbus Monument Tel. 93 442 3106 Open—first tour at 11.30am Last tour at 6.15pm Typical harbour tour (35 mins): €6.80 Catamaran (1hr 30): €14 www.lasgolondrinas.com

Next month: WHERE TO FIND CHEAP BEER

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3/23/11 1:13:35 PM

main pages - Apr11 .indd 15

3/22/11 10:53:39 AM

On ESPERANZA SPALDING P. 30 JOSH T PEARSON P. 31 LA SERVA PADRONA P. 32 LA TRIESTE DE MAGRIS P. 34

Pictured: Still from Brand on the Brain by Guy Maddin, the featured director at the new Dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;A film festival. See page 30 for more information.

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30 ON

the edit

We trawl through the month’s cultural events and pick our favourites

9th

The Black Music Festival may not take place here in the metropolis but that’s not to say it isn’t a big hitter when it comes to programming. They’ve bagged Morcheeba, Eli Paperboy Reed and the Grammy Award-winning Esperanza Spalding this year. Having just scooped the Best New Artist award, jazz bassist and singer Spalding (pictured) is definitely one the organisers should be shouting about.

Esperanza Spalding Auditori de Girona www.blackmusicfestival.com

th 18 29th

14th For those who know their Bob Katz from their Lou Fines, then this is the ultimate date in the diary. Think a hanger-size room full of all things comic: star writers and artists, this year including Brent Anderson, Kurt Busiek and Eddie Campbell, exhibitions and competitions such as the best zombie costume! What more could any comic book fan want?

To some minds, Barcelona needs another film festival like it needs more pa amb tomàquet, but for the dedicated cinephile, the news that organisers behind the BAFF are launching a new filmic festival, will make them giddy with excitement. With 60 flicks on the programme, even the most jaded of cinema-goers should find something to lift them from their big-screen slump.

D’A. Festival Internacional de Cinema d’Autor de Barcelona www.cinemadautor.cat

29º Salón del Cómic FIRA de Barcelona www.ficomic.com Run by the NGO Artixoc, the Artescape festival aims to show the creativity of teenagers by hosting concerts and graffiti and hip-hop workshops in order to boost inclusion and to energise the lives of teenagers from less-fortunate neighbourhoods. This year it takes place in La Mina. Activities run from April to June, see website for more details.

Artescape Festival www.artixoc.org

8th

ON Contributors: Sara Blaylock, Dylan Clive, Colin Lawson, Sophie Schroder, Lucy Wright

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ON 31

the gigs

10th

Slayer and Megadeth: Sant Jordi Club, 1st

The Sea and Cake: Bikini, 5th

Justin Bieber: Palau Sant Jordi, 6th

The Shout Out Louds: Apolo, 6th

The Thermals: BeCool, 8th

Butterfly Explosion: Moog, 9th

28th Josh T Pearson

Sidecar

Jesus! Look at that, it’s Josh T Pearson on tour. The country boy with preaching in the blood and the devil in him is back after almost a decade in the wilderness. Ten years ago, it was as part of the group Lift to Experience that Josh T Pearson entertained the crowds. The critically-acclaimed LTE Texas-Jerusalem Crossroads double album of 2001 cemented cult status and peer respect but a band break-up soon followed. Meandering through Europe’s low-rent venues, playing albums’ worth of never officially released material, this talented vagabond touted his wares. In the last 10 years, Pearson has had just one proper release. The aptly chosen Hank Williams cover ‘I’m So Lonesome I Could Cry’ is perhaps a gauge of how the musician felt in those years. This 2006 single creates haunted ethereal sounds complemented by minimal guitar and echoed vocals. Today the man seems to have undergone a resurrection, stronger in his sadness and more honest in his tales. Last of the Country Gentleman was released by Mute on March 14th and is a sure-fire contender for one of the top records of the year. This hushed sermon plays like a Cormac McCarthy novel in which all the characters are forced to live a scarred and torn existence. ‘Country Dumb’, the first single, heralds the country bard’s return. A Pentecostal hymn wed in holy matrimony to a broken-down country singer creates an air of serious artistry. The fragile beauty that is conjured is balanced with the slow-building fire of honesty. ‘Sweetheart I Ain’t Your Christ’ is another highlight and, true to form, an ode to personal angels and demons. It ain’t all doom and gloom though. Live, Pearson wields a dry and self-deprecating humour that endears him to audiences by reinforcing the truly sincere feeling you get from watching him perform. This quick wit and solemn balladry makes a visit to see Josh T Pearson most rewarding. It is holy country blues executed by a Texan who looks as though he was on the committee that approved the opening of the Wild Wild West.--CL

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The Australian Pink Floyd: Razzmatazz, 10th

Deerhunter: Apolo, 15th

The Wave Pictures: Apolo[2], 16th

Pete Doherty: Apolo, 18th

David Bisbal: Teatre Liceu, 18th

J Mascis: Apolo[2], 23rd

PS I Love You: KGB, 29th

The Dodos: Plaça de la Odissea, 30th

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32 ON

9th

La Serva Padrona

Teatre de Sarrià

Forget your preconceptions of the rotund, busty, middle-aged opera singer. The genre has its young and sexy side as well. I’m clearly not talking about the Anna Nicole Smith opera that stunned the traditionalists and trendies (in different ways) at London’s Royal Opera House last month. No, rather I mean performers such as the gorgeous Catalan soprano Isabel Rodrígez (pictured above, evidently) who takes the lead role in this month´s staging of the baroque chamber opera La Serva Padrona (The Servant Turned Mistress). To be honest, the eponymous servant isn’t really made for your Montserrat Caballé types. Telling the story of a sprightly and cunning young maid who has her aged boss wound around her little finger (a key piece of the action involves the woman effectively taking the poor old man hostage,

locking him into his own house), this short opera was originally written as the intermission entertainment for a full-length piece. Imagine—no taking a break for a glass of wine and packet of Revels in 1733. Uh-uh. Just taking a break for MORE opera. La Serva Padrona (written by Giovanni Battista Pergolesi, who died just three years after its premiere at the horribly young age of 26) is regarded as the forerunner of comedic opera (opera buffa) as well as helping to bring the genre to the common man, with its tiny three-person cast (one of whom is mute throughout) and simple tale of manipulation and marriage. Add to this the fact that this version will be performed with the orchestra and cast in full Baroque regalia, and you have a promising-sounding night at the opera.--HP

23rd

Angus & Julia Stone

Sala Bikini

Cast your mind back through the annals of chart history and it’s easy to find oodles of musical families. From the Osmonds to the Jonas Brothers, what is the endless appeal of these genealogical groups? Is it perhaps a shared pool of emotional experiences that lets them write and compose sincere and honest songs, or is it more simply that hours spent in the back seat of the family Volvo on long, hot summer holidays allow them to perfect those tight harmonies? It would certainly appear that this particular familial duo, hailing from Australia, did spend a good part of their youth singing their little hearts out. Now touring their second album, Down the Way, Angus and Julia Stone seem like the ultimate family band. We all know that the need to share is key to a harmonious family but, to the annoyance of some, the Stone family

have a habit of sharing the vocals from song to song; Julia’s pained and high-pitched voice is the antithesis to Angus’s more laid-back West Coast vibe. But this aside, the intimacy of tracks such as the Martha Wainwrightproduced ‘And the Boy’ or the big single of the album ‘Big Jet Plane’, offer up some indie folk-rock that mixes strings, electric and acoustic guitar and that, while uncomfortably twee for some, is undoubtedly well put together. By all accounts they seem to have pulled off the difficult second album and they had quite the job to do after 2007 debut A Book Like This, which came with a beautifully illustrated book, proved to be one of the highest selling Australian albums of the year. So if you can forgive the passing back and forth of the microphone, just enjoy the dreamy, heartfelt music-making that the family Stone do so well.

For more live events, visit our website: www.barcelona-metropolitan.com

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ON 33

7th

Crystal Fighters

KGB

Not many bands have ever seen a txalaparta, let alone used the Basque instrument on stage but that doesn’t stop the Crystal Fighters. British meets Basque, electro welcomes folk and indie plays with dubstep; the danger is you listen to this fast-paced, alternative dance music and suddenly find everything else, well, boring. The genuinely new sound experience is generated from synthesisers and an incredibly addictive raw energy. Electro pop holds hands with Basque instrumentation in a bizarrely brilliant combination that suggests undiagnosed ADHD or mild insanity. It probably won’t be a surprise to hear, then, that inspiration for debut album Star of Love came from an unfinished, nonsensical opera, written by the reclusive, somewhat loopy grandfather of a member of the band. These strange elements coming together shouldn’t work. But they do. Supposedly the name of the group and the themes for their songs, which include the universe, coping with death and the conquest of love, were all born of singer Laure’s grandfather’s writings. Let’s hope further crazy work can be uncovered soon because Crystal Fighters have been turning heads, tapping feet and causing mayhem on dance floors since exploding on the club scene with the release of ‘Xtatic Truth’. The single will be familiar to followers of British TV series Skins and would probably still be exhilarating and frenetic to listen to, even if on repeat the entire night. Where this English/Spanish alternative dance group differs from the rest, is in their ability to produce a genre-jumping sound. The constant fidgeting between dance, melodies and Spanish folk means you could find their album in any one of a number of sections at your local music shop. Crystal Fighters are never short of a curve ball or two; from the Basque guitar influences in ‘Plage’ to the heavy dubstep flair of ‘Swallow’, the result is a moreish sound of catchy unpredictability. Needless to say, the force and electronic oomph of this high-energy group is best experienced live. Their ensemble of electronics, percussion and traditional Basque instrumentation is sure to throw up a delightfully messy treat for all Crystal Fighters’ fans. In what is arguably the most exciting electronic show around, a thrilling and euphoric atmosphere will have you breathing adrenaline before ‘I Love London’ induces a weekend dance coma. You have been warned.--DC

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1st

The Go! Team

Razzmatazz

April Fool’s Day seems an appropriate time for Brighton sextet The Go! Team to take to the stage in Barcelona. For nearly a decade, they have been busily creating their own playful genre of music, instantly recognisable, undeniably infectious, child-like and genius in equal measure. Even the (very deliberate) inclusion of an exclamation mark in the name hints that energy and effervescence abound with this band. It’s difficult to describe the sound of a group that couple indie guitar riffs with hip-hops beats, and layer cheesy cop show samples over soaring female vocals (courtesy of the band’s enigmatic singer known only as ‘Ninja’). But that’s what the Mercury Prize-nominated band do. As band founder and primary songwriter Ian Parton succinctly put it, the Go! Team specialise in “schizo music”. The result is an intoxicating and entertaining brand of music that has won them legions of fans not only in the UK, but also across the pond. Debut album Thunder Lightning Strike was released in 2004; a family affair, it was recorded in Parton’s parents’ house, and mixed in the studio by his brother. The album was met with critical acclaim and commercial appeal, with a couple of tracks appearing in feature films and video game adverts. Widespread airplay on commercial radio soon followed, along with the aforementioned Mercury Prize nomination, and the rest, as they say, is history. Such was the album’s success, that the fledgling band found themselves at the centre of a record label bidding war in the US. (Columbia Records won, in case you were wondering). The band have been touring for eight years now and this is presumably where Ninja perfected the art of turning the audience to putty in her hands. With high-profile gigs filling their resumé, the chance to see The Go! Team entertain at the comparatively small Razzmatazz is too good to pass up. Add to this the fact that Parton has hinted that new album Rolling Blackouts could be their last, and a ticket seems even more appealing. If the new album is, in fact, the band’s last, their relatively short career will be over as quickly as it began. But they can safely say it was fun while it lasted.--LW

3/23/11 12:38:57 PM

34 ON

Lluís Hortalà. Exercitatori

La Trieste de Magris

The air is cleaner on Montserrat, a consequence of blustery clouds and

It’s difficult to capture the essence of a city, but the CCCB’s latest exhibi-

a cycling of micro-climates; a mystifying ecosystem that seems fitting for

tion has managed it. The city in question is Trieste.

Fundació Suñol. Until April 30th

a site shaped as much by geologic circumstance as divine legend. Some

CCCB. Until July 17th

Overlooking the Adriatic Sea on the frontier between Italy and Eastern

say a castle once held Christ’s Holy Grail here. In 880, after visions of the

Europe, this is a place pummelled by the unique Bora winds that at times

Virgin appeared, a bishop ordered a chapel built. Today, the monastery of

reach 171 kilometres per hour. It is also home to some of the world’s most

Montserrat enshrines a Black Madonna, the golden globe in her right hand

foremost thinkers, whose lives and writings are exposed by this latest

a less risky Blarney Stone for the Christian faithful.

installation, The Trieste of Magris.

As a subject, Montserrat favours many forms of art making. Those

A part of the CCCB’s cycle of exhibits, ‘Cities and Their Writers’, the

lumpy shapes are handily and frequently reproduced in clay, photo, film,

story of this multi-ethnic city is told through the eyes of Triestine writer

drawing, painting, graphics, even crayon and paper do it some justice.

Claudio Magris. Curated by theatre director and Magris’s friend Giorgio

Nevertheless, Montserrat is best imitated after comprehensive considera-

Pressburger, this is more than a show with one protagonist. Instead, art, lit-

tion, perhaps accounting for the site’s geologic, aesthetic and holy draw.

erature, science and the recent history of Europe are displayed in a format

Lluís Hortalà, an artist and rock climber, has focused his last two years on climbing, reproducing and revering this mountain chain from all angles.

that includes both humour and sensitivity. A wander through the 15-room installation reveals the heart of a town:

The result is a series of photo-realistic charcoal drawings, clunky little

replicas of Trieste’s Caffe San Marco and town square, and simulations of

animations and two plain benches.

the Bora wind are just a taster. Traverse the spectrum of human emo-

Hortalà likens his rock climbing and art practice to a spiritual journey,

tion and step into the madness of a mock sanatorium or sink into a plush

with climbing a mountain a pretty straightforward, even clichéd, metaphor

psychiatric chair on display to illustrate Trieste’s importance to the field of

for life and its trials. That said, Hortalà’s comparison is not only earnest,

psychoanalysis.

but historical: his exhibition, Exercitatori, takes its name from a mysti-

Literature enthusiasts will also find themselves satisfied. As well as

cal essay written on Montserrat in the 16th century, the first of its kind to

Magris’s penmanship, original writings from the likes of James Joyce, who

spell out a spiritual plan in the vernacular. The show brochure includes an

lived in Trieste for 14 years, are on display in all their glory. Perhaps it was

excerpt of the monk’s text, which explains the various ways that man ap-

the mad Bora that pushed Irishman Joyce to pen some of the “scandal-

proaches the divine as if he were hiking a mountain. Ancient mystics aside, Hortalà’s work delivers a thoughtful treatment of his experience and admiration for Montserrat that can appeal to many

ous” letters on show here. Written to lover Nora Barnacle, they will leave any English speaker in no doubt as to why Joyce revolutionised literature! Joyce is just one example of Trieste’s multi-faceted makeup, which is a

audiences. His drawings are beautiful and expertly crafted, superimposed

theme explored throughout: from the town’s Bohemian roots to Mussolini’s

with scientific graphs likely written in a rock-climber’s shorthand. His

declaration of racist laws and Nazi autocracies.

animations are simple and sheepishly silly, depicting movement and/or the

Subtly raising questions about the importance of multi-culturalism, toler-

disappearance of Montserrat’s rocky blooms. With basically all the works

ance and acceptance through a non-confrontational medium, The Trieste

hung high on the wall, the benches provide a simple and time-tested strat-

of Magris serves to incite valuable discussions about the world we live in.

egy for evoking the holy: sit low and look up. Now, don’t those mountains look marvellous?--SB

It also can’t be forgotten that you’re essentially paying around €5 to visit an Italian seaside village!--SS

Find FULL DETAILS OF current exhibitions on our website WWW.barcelona-metropolitan.com

34-35 ARTSPDF.indd 52

3/23/11 12:41:19 PM

IH BCN Metropolitan Advert Febrero 2010.pdf

12/2/10

14:08:11

ON 35

quick picks WHERE LANGUAGES COME ALIVE WHERE LANGUAGES COME ALIVE

LANGUAGE LEARNING & TEACHER TRAINING

Un segle de dones. Setba Zona d’Art. Until April 30th. setba.net

CMY

Els Napoleon. Arxiu Fotogràfic. Until May 14th. bcn.cat/arxiu

Crossing Boxes. Galeria H2O. Until April 30th. h2o.es

INTERNATIONAL HOUSE THIS WAY

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TEACHER TRAINING COURSES CELTA, CELTYL, CELTYL EXTENSION, DELTA, BUSINESS, DOSs, TRAINERS, MANAGERS, TRANSLATORS, YOUNG LEARNERS

SPANISH LANGUAGE COURSES INTENSIVE & EXTENSIVE, BUSINESS, DELE PREPARATION, INDIVIDUAL TUITION. All ages and levels.

WIDE RANGE OF TEACHER TRAINING AND SPANISH COURSES ALSO AVAILABLE ON-LINE ALSO: ENGLISH, FRENCH, GERMAN, CHINESE COURSES, STUDY ABROAD PROGRAMMES & TRANSLATION SERVICES

1979, un monument a instants radicals. Palau de la Virreina. Until June 12th. bcn.cat/virreinacentredelaimatge

34-35 ARTSPDF.indd 53

C/Trafalgar 14, 08010 Barcelona. Spain 93 268 45 11 info@bcn.ihes.com www.ihes.com

3/23/11 12:41:28 PM

36 GASTRONOMY

A high flier

Not the most obvious place for a slapup meal, Barcelona’s airport has a surprise for hungry fliers. Text and photos by Tara Stevens.

irports are not generally the first places you think of for dinner. Then again, since many of us spend a considerable chunk of our time at them, perhaps they should be. The decision to bring one of the city’s most celebrated chefs— Carles Gaig —into Barcelona’s newish Terminal 1 was not only welcomed, it was inspired; reminding us in these days of budget travel, where every last shred of comfort is stripped away, that we are human beings and civilised to boot. My latest flight was conveniently timed for 17.40 so I got there early and went in for lunch. In fact lunch is all there is—Porta Gaig’s opening hours are limited to weekdays only and the atmosphere is business-like, rather than warm and fuzzy. Yet the cream on white design keeps it fresh and appealing, and great walls of glass let in lashings of glittering sunlight and the occasional glimpse of aircraft pootling into their bays. For my part, I felt just a tiny bit sad that it wasn’t busier, because, hand on heart, it is a rather jolly way to start a trip even if you are alone, as I was. So there I was at the faux granite bar where there’s a convenient ‘quick’ menu for anyone in a rush, and plenty of opportunity to ogle your fellow patrons: I can report mainly men in suits. Service is brisk, but considerably friendlier than most of the other places on offer—ARS, Pans & Company, Burger King—or indeed many places in the centre of Barcelona, and I felt very comfortable sitting there on my own with a nice big glass of Rueda, the paper and a hearty, meaty, Catalan menu to contemplate: eggs from Calaf poached and served over potatoes and grilled foie, roast duck with pears, slow-braised beef cheeks with porcini, and Gaig’s legendary canelons. Many of them were dishes I’d had before at Fonda

Gaig and if half as good as the originals would make a fine lunch, except I’m en route to Mallorca where I’m expected for dinner, so with some regret I keep it light. At least I try. I order anchovies on pa amb tomàquet and a large garden salad, knowing that if Gaig is true to his principles the reward will be in the details. It may not sound like anything to knock your socks off, but these anchovies were the pinkest, plumpest Cantabrian specimens ever, oozing just the right amount of fishy saltiness to make the bread rubbed with tomato sing. The endive in the salad crunches juicily on the tongue, while frilly lollo rosso and escarole give a pleasing bitterness, sweet new onions a pungent punch, and tomatoes a sweet softness. The dressing is scant, but just enough to tie it all together. Truly, a good salad shouldn’t require much effort, but they are surprisingly rare in this part of the world and Gaig’s does have a certain je ne sais quoi. I bask in the afterglow for a couple of minutes feeling rather proud of my thin-person’s lunch, and then, with still half an hour to kill, think “to hell with it”, and order one of Spain’s greatest dishes: cochinillo (pictured above). It arrives, a neat square chunk of slowly-roasted piglet on a smear of intensely flavoured gravy, with potato wedges and a spoonful of confit apples on the side. The flesh isn’t quite as gooey as I’d have hoped for, but it’s good and meaty, a slightly older beast than its milkier brethren, big on flavour with a satisfying, caramelised crackling. All in all, it’s a very nicely put together dish and the portion is just big enough for a one-course lunch. I didn’t have time—or room—for dessert, more’s the pity, but I’m willing to bet it was better than whatever they serve at ARS.

PORTA GAIG—Barcelona Airport Terminal 1; tel. 93 259 6210 Open: Mon to Fri, noon-5pm. Closed Saturday and Sunday Main courses: €10.70-€24.50 Tara’s rating: ✪✪✪✪✪

Read the food and drink blog on our website for the latest gourmet news and reviews: www.barcelona-metropolitan.com

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3/23/11 1:42:39 PM

GASTRONOMY 37

recipe by Tara Stevens

Harissa-spiced barley and roasted vegetable salad

ately I’ve been using more of the grains outside of the usual wheat and rice that tend to get overlooked. Add generous quantities of anything that adds big, bright flavour to a dish —cilantro, chilli or lemon juice say—and the humble and unappealingly earnest grain is suddenly interesting. Barley (cebada in Castilian, ordí in Catalan) is one of my favourites. I like the nutty taste and the soft, comforting yield of the grain once it is cooked. It also soaks up other flavours brilliantly.

Ingredients (serves four as a side dish, two as a main) • 200g whole barley (available in most health food shops) • 800ml water • 1 aubergine, cut into 1-inch chunks • 20 mixed variety cherry tomatoes, halved • 1 onion finely chopped • 1 large handful cilantro and/or mint leaves, roughly chopped • 3 bay leaves • Olive oil • Salt and pepper For the dressing • Juice of 1 lemon • 3 tbsp olive oil • 1 tbsp honey • 1 garlic clove, minced • 1-2 tsp hot harissa (if you can’t get harissa, use half chilli powder and half pimentón, the smoked version works great) Method Preheat oven to 200º, toss the aubergine, tomatoes and bay leaves in olive oil, sprinkle on salt and pepper to taste and roast for 25-30 minutes or until golden. Whisk all the dressing ingredients together and let the flavours develop while the rest is cooking. Place the barley in a pan, cover with water and bring to the boil. Turn down to a simmer for another 25 minutes until the barley is just tender and the water has nearly evaporated. Take off the heat, pop on the lid and leave to steam for another 5-10 minutes. To assemble the salad, take a large bowl and toss together the barley, tomatoes and aubergines (discard the bay leaves). Add the raw onion and the herbs. Drizzle over with the dressing. Toss one last time and serve. It goes well with a side of grilled meats and lasts, covered, in the fridge for a couple of days.

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3/23/11 1:42:43 PM

38 GASTRONOMY

Lunch with...

Tara Stevens dines with Sally Davies, food lover and editor of the Time Out Guide to Barcelona

ally Davies has been the editor of the Time Out Guide to Barcelona for nearly 10 years. During that time she’s eaten in more restaurants in Barcelona than anyone I know, myself included. We got together to talk shop at the iconic Fonda España restaurant at the newly revamped Hotel España.

What do you think of the restaurant scene in Barcelona at the moment? The good and the bad of the Barcelona restaurant scene is that it doesn’t change wildly. Good in that there are still plenty of familyrun, traditional Catalan places de toda la vida; bad in that there is a certain resistance to new flavours and ingredients, so it’s hard for a really authentic Thai, say, to survive. Generally, though, I’m a bit wary of trend-spotting in restaurants. I think we journos are under pressure to do it and you end up with made-up concepts like the recent raft of articles about ‘bistronomics’, used to describe restaurants like Hisop, Gresca or Embat, none of which is either a bistro or particularly economical. The term simply describes entry-level Michelin places. Now a proper bistro, that would be good. Cassoulet. Onion soup. Bouillabaisse. I’d be there every day. Wouldn’t have to be French, could be Catalan—in fact a Catalan bistro might have food a lot like this place.

38 Lunch withPDF.indd 42

What did you think of Fonda España? Rich, filling, Catalan comfort food in a pretty and historic dining room—not much to argue with there. I think they’re doing themselves a disservice touting the whole ‘Martín Berasategui at the helm’ thing, though, because anyone who’s eaten at his mothership and is hoping for a low-cost version of that triple-starred magic is going to be disappointed—this is a completely different kind of food. Honest, traditional, handed-down-recipe food. Loved the lamb and fried mongetes, and the mackerel with trinxat hit the spot on this chilly day. Other places to recommend? The longer I’m in this business the harder I am to impress with fancy food—if I’m not working, it’s all about atmosphere. Twenty minutes from the centre and you can be sitting in the sunshine with Barcelona at your feet while scarfing calçots and drinking flagons of house red at Can Martí (www.canmarti.info). That’s hard to beat.

Fonda España Hotel España, Carrer Sant Pau 9-11, El Raval. Tel. 93 550 0000, www.hotelespanya.com. Open daily, 1 to 4pm and 8 to 11pm. Lunch menú: €25 for three courses, including wine and water.

3/23/11 12:35:58 PM

main pages - Mar11 .indd 2

2/21/11 2:55:10 PM

Food &Drink

NEFW &D IN

For more in food&drink visit our online directory

www.barcelona-metropolitan.com/eating-and-drinking

Bagels BE MY BAGEL 4GRÀCIA Do you dream of great bagels? Then Be My Bagel is the right place for you. They sell authentic bagels from Barcelona, just how you like them. They have an extensive range of bagels and cakes, from the more classic choices such as poppy and multigrain to delicious and innovative chocolate, almond and coconut bagels - you’ll not come away disappointed.

C/Planeta 37 (Pl. del Sol) I L6 and L7 Fontana and Gràcia I Tel. 93 518 7151 I bemybagel@gmail.com Open from Mon-Fri 9.30-2 pm and 5pm-8.30pm, Sat 10am-2.30pm, 6pm-10pm, Sun 10.30am-2pm

Dreams4port olimpic Located in Port Olympic, Dreams is the perfect place to unwind and relax. From 7pm to 11pm enjoy the luxurious outdoor covered lounge, where you can enjoy bottle service with brands such as Grey Goose Vodka as well as all your favourite cocktails, beers and hookah pipes. If you’re a sports fan, make use of their wide-screen TV, showing European football and all the action from the NFL and the NBA. From 11pm join the go-go dancers as they perform to the best house, R&B and Latino music.

Moll de Mestral 6-7, Port Olimpic I

L4 Ciutadella-Vila Olímpica

Bar - Live Music Margarita Blue 4BARRI GÒTIC

Barraval 4Raval Located in the heart of the Raval quarter, Barraval offers great Mediterranean and Catalan cuisine alongside a trendy atmosphere and great cocktails. Taste our new ‘Tapas and Platillos’ menu. You can also stop at the bar for a great cocktail and listen to soul, jazz, Latin and R&B music played by resident DJs. Private rooms are available for groups, parties and special events. Every Wednesday we have ‘After Office’ - enjoy a special complimentary chef’s dish when ordering a drink. Weekend Lunch Special: Paella Menu for 15.

Located in the heart of old Barcelona, Margarita Blue has become a classic in the city’s bar scene. Delight in the dishes from the ‘‘Mexiterranean” kitchen, such as a variety of tacos, amazing guacamole, fresh carpaccio and tomates verdes fritos or take pleasure in a drink or cocktail whilst appreciating new music and spectacular shows that alternate between theatre and performance art.

C/Hospital, 104 (Rambla del Raval) Liceu / Sant Antoni | Tel. 93 329 8277 609 221 400 | Wed-Sat 7.30pm-2.30am, Sat-Sun open at 1pm for lunch | RV

C/Josep Anselm Clave 6 | Drassanes Tel. 93 412 5489 | www.margaritablue.com | Mon-Fri 1.30pm-4pm, 8pm-2.30am, Sat-Sun 6pm-2.30am | RV

Bar

Café – Ice Cream Shop V.O.S Cinebar4SARRIÀ & EIXAMPLE Ever wished you could share a cocktail with Audrey Hepburn and Humphrey Bogart here in Barcelona? Well now you can! Cinebar brings the golden age of cinema back to Barcelona with original version screenings of everything from Hollywood classics to French New Wave and Italian neo-realism. While you’re there, enjoy a ‘cine sandwich’ made from a selection of rustic breads, a movie-themed salad, fresh juices, smoothies, proper Italian coffee or, of course, a cocktail. Plaça Cardona 4 | Gràcia Diagonal Carrer Paris 200 | Tel. 93 002 2300 | Open 8am-3am

could hed you is s w r e v cocktail a n lo e arc re B or Food April 2011.indd 44 sh&adrink epburn

ART I SA4BARRI GÒTIC Natural and organic delicatessen, café and ice cream shop.

V.O.s

u can es so yo h subtitl it w p ackdro om the d as a b music fr screene elected s y ll fu re y the ca also enjo ixties. to the S Thirties de ich’ ma e sandw

• Fantastic selection of the most typical Catalan products, made in the most traditional and natural way. • Perfect as a treat for yourself, or a gift for a loved one. • Choose from a selection of different crêpes, sandwiches, cakes and natural ice cream for a truly original experience.

C/Colom 2 (Plaça Real) | Liceu | Tel. 93 186 3623 www.artisa.es | Every day 10am-10pm

3/23/11 12:57:15 PM

FOOD & DRINK 41 Ethiopian Addis Abeba 4sants

Govinda (VEGETARIAN)4BARRI GÒTIC

This fantastic restaurant offers wholesome food served in the traditional Ethiopian way. Importing fresh ingredients and using top-quality local meat, the food is prepared with an exciting range of over 25 herbs and spices creating an incredible range of tastes and flavours. Their combination plates offer an excellent way for groups to try a variety of dishes to give you the true taste of Ethiopia. If you’re a vegetarian, you’ll love the huge selection of dishes on offer too.

A restaurant veteran for 24 years, Govinda specialises in vegetarian Indian cuisine. The international menu features talis, a salad bar, natural juices, lassis, pizzas and crêpes. It offers a veganfriendly, non-alcoholic and authentically decorated environment with lunch and weekend menus. Pl. Villa de Madrid 4-5 | Catalunya | Tel. 93 318 7729 www.amalteaygovinda.com | Tue-Sat 1pm-4pm, 8.30pm-12am, Sun-Mon 1pm-4pm

MOTI MAHAL4RAVAL

Conveniently located between the Rambla de Raval and Paral·lel, Moti Mahal offers an extensive menu of Indian cuisine, including madras and tika dishes, sheek kebabs, traditional soups breads and biryanis. A large variety of vegetarian dishes are also available. House specialities are the clay oven-cooked tandoori dishes and the tofu paneer pakora. Menu of the day is on offer Mon-Fri for 9.25.

C/Vallespir 44 I Sants Estacio I Tel. 93 409 4037 Mon-Fri 8pm-12am, Sat 2pm-4pm, 8pm-12am

Hungarian Delicatessen

International

paprika gourmet4Eixample d

Hard Rock CafE4CIUTAT VELLA

Paprika Gourmet, Barcelona’s first Hungarian delicatessen is a treasury of culinary experiences, the shop window a quintessence of Hungarian cuisine. It is conveniently located a block away from the Sagrada Familia. It offers a wide range of salamis, cheeses, jams, honeys and chocolates all in a warm, welcoming environment. In the morning you can have an appetising breakfast with coffee and during the day you can enjoy the delicious “tapas a la húngara” with a glass of wine. Be our guest and taste the world of Paprika Gourmet!

Hard Rock Cafe Barcelona offers an inspired, creative ambience with incredible rock‘n’roll memorabilia on display. Come and taste authentic American food. Their barbecue entrées slow cooked in the cafe’s hardwood smokers are delicious. Visit the bar to try a premium cocktail and check out the live music and special events on offer. Don’t forget to stop at the Rock Shop for fine, classic, cotton T-shirts or a collectable Hard Rock pin.

C/Lepant 311 | Sagrada Familia | Tel. 93 433 5709 | www.paprikagourmet.com Mon-Sat 7am-9pm Closed Sun

Indian - Hindu

Food & drink April 2011.indd 45

veg world4GRÀCIA

GUT4Gràcia

Discover a world of sensations in a relaxed and homely atmosphere. Try vegetarian delicacies from all over the world such as delicious bread home-made in a Tandoori oven and south Indian dishes like Masala dosa and Idly. Daily continental and Indian menus, 9.50 inc. Free soup and salad buffet.

Firstly there’s the food. Using only the finest quality ingredients, the kitchen specialises in Mediterranean cuisine with an international twist and plenty of options for vegetarians. Try their quinoa and tofu burgers or a sinful home-made dessert. Secondly, there’s Gut’s attention to detail and the friendly, respectful service. It’s the perfect place to have a drink and enjoy the night in good company. Try it for yourself and find out why everyone is talking about Gut.

C/Bruniquer 26 | Plaça Joanic Tel. 93 210 7056 | Tues-Sun 1pm-4pm, 8pm-11.30pm

C/Perill, 13 I Diagonal Tel. 93 186 6360 I restaurantgut@gmail.com

3/23/11 12:57:22 PM

42 FOOD & DRINK Delivery tHaI tHaI4EIXAMPLE E

VItalI pIZZa

Thai Thai restaurant invites you to taste and enjoy traditional Thai food with tropical ingredients from Thailand prepared by Thai chefs. They specialise in all kinds of Thai curries. Thai Thai has created a delicious tasting menu for only 24 and a fresh menu of the day is on offer for 9.50 during the week.

Special Metropolitan offer: Buy 3 pizzas and get the 4th pizza FREE + a bottle of Lambrusco.

C. Paris, 109 I Hospital Clinic I Tel. 93 444 4737 Gran Via, 931 I Clot | Tel. 93 303 0735 C. Taxdirt, 13 I Joanic/Gracia | Tel. 93 285 41 95 www.vitalipizza.com

Vegetarian

SuSHI BOX

aMaltea4EIXAMPLE E

This great new sushi take-away has two locations in the city which offer free delivery for all orders over 25. They have a wide selection of Japanese cuisine including various vegetarian options. All food is freshly prepared to order in a beautiful artisan Japanese style. Impress your guests at home or in the office.

Visit Amaltea vegetarian restaurant where tasty and healthy meals are served in a welcoming environment. Dishes include cereals, pulses and vegetables with home-made puddings. The cuisine is creatively international with care taken to ensure all ingredients are fresh and dishes are well balanced. Menu of the day 10.50, night and weekend menu 15.

C/Rosselló, 317 I Hospital Clinic C/Galileu, 246 I Les Corts I Tel. 93 116 2100 I delivery@sushibox.es Tues 7.30pm-11pm I Wed-Sun 12.30pm-4pm and 7.30pm-11pm

C/Diputació 164 | Urgell | Tel. 93 454 8613 | www.amalteaygovinda.com | Mon-Sat 1pm-4pm, 8.30pm-11.30pm, Closed Sun

Vietnamese

Indian - Modern SHantI4LES CoRTS Shanti (which means peace in Sanskrit) have selected a rich and varied menu comprised of traditional dishes that offer an authentic Indian experience to even the most discerning palettes. Using classic recipes their dishes respect tradition but come with modern presentation. Try their tasting menu for only 24.90 (+IVA).

C/Agustina Saragossa 3-5 (in front of CC L’Illa) Maria Cristina - Tram 1,2,3 L’Illa Tel. 93 252 3115 | www.shanti.es Mon-Sat 1pm-4pm, 8pm-11.45pm Closed Sun | RV

take-away pIM paM Burger4BoRn Here quality is of the upmost importance, making it the best burger and frankfurter take-away in town. Special hamburgers, chicken burgers, bratwurst, frankfurters, home-made chips and stroganoff are also available and are all prepared on the premises.

C/Sabateret 4 I Jaume I Tel. 93 315 2093 burger@pimpamplats.com I www.pimpamplats.com Every day 1pm-12am

Bun BO VIÊtnaM4BARRI GÒTIC Satisfy your craving for fresh, healthy Vietnamese food just steps away from the Gothic cathedral. Sit under the leafy trees of the quiet terrace or inside the restaurant which is entirely decorated with bright colourful pieces straight from Saigon. Start with delicious fresh summer rolls, crispy Asian pork lettuce cups, followed by traditional Pho or Bun noodle dishes. Accompany your meal with a fresh and exotic cocktail like the sakirinha (caipirinha made with sake). The menu of the day is an affordable 10 inside and 11 on the shady terrace. The kitchen is open non-stop all day.

C/Sagristans 3 |

Urquinaona | Tel. 93 301 1378 | www.bunbovietnam.com | 1pm-1am Every day

thai tHaI graCIa4GRACIA Expect authentic ingredients all imported from Thailand and cooked by experienced Thai chefs. The Pad Thai and green and yellow curries have excellent subtle ﬂavours. Simply delicious! The special tasting menu for 21 is a huge hit and allows you to try all the exotic dishes Thai Gracia has to offer. An affordable 11 menu del dia is available during the week. The warm hospitality and attention to detail to every dish at Thai Gracia will keep you coming back for more.

C/ Còrsega 381 | Metro Verdaguer / Girona Tel. 93 459 3591 | www.restaurante-thai-gracia.com Every day 1pm-4pm, 8pm-12am | RV

Food & drink April 2011.indd 46

food &drink

to advertise in this section, please call 93 451 4486 or email ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com

3/23/11 12:57:29 PM

Find your nearest distribution point Your free magazine in English Eixample (left)

Born

Ciutat Vella

Club Escandinavo - Gran Vía 541 Toscano Antico - Aribau 167 Scobies Bar - Ronda Universitat 8 Altaïr - Gran Vía 616 The Philharmonic - Mallorca 204 Floridablanca Renoir - Floridablanca 135 Belchica - Villarroel 60 Come In - Balmes 129 bis A Taste of Home - Floridablanca 78 Amaltea - Diputació 164 (Urgell) Punto Información Juvenil - Calabria 147 La Trajinera Restaurant - Gran Vía 459 7 Sins lounge bar - Muntaner 7 VOS Bar - Pl. Cardona 4 Om India - Floridablanca 130

BCN Internet Café - Barra de Ferro 3 La Taverna del Born - Pg. del Born 27-29 Café del Convento - Pl. Academia y Tarantanna Vintage Bar - Fusina 7 Sandwich & Friends - Pg. del Born 27 Barroc Café - Rec 67 Arena Bar - Carassa 4 Anthony Llobet - Carders 34 Bar del Pla - Montcada 2 La Fianna - Banys Vells 15 Black Horse - Av. Allada-Vermell 16 Rosa Negra -Via Laietana 46 Nakupenda - Av. Marquès de l’Argentera 7-9 bxs Princesa 23 - Princesa 23 Mujer - Carders 28 Wushu Restaurant & Bar - Av. Marqués de l’Argentera 1 Café del Born Nou - Pl. Comercial 10 La Bodegueta del Parc - Pg. Pujades 21 Dans le Noir - Pg. Picasso 10 McCarthy’s - Via Laietana 40 La Bàscula - Flassaders 30 The Palace Bar - Vigatans 13 Paddy’s Lane - Pla del Palau 9 Incógnito – Fusina 6

Flaherty’s - Pl. Joaquin Xirau, s/n Hard Rock Cafe - Pl. Catalunya 2 Palau de la Virreina - Rambla 99 Bar del Pi - Pl. St. Josep Oriol 1 Glacier - Pl. Reial 3 Ryans - Ample 28 Milk Bar Bistro - Gignás 21 Margarita Blue - Josep Anselm Clavé 6 Vegetalia - Escudellers 54 Anthony Llobet Hair Salon - Avinyó 34 My Bar - Ferran 8 Temple Bar - Ferran 6 Molly’s Fair City - Ferran 7 Hook - Ample 35 Depeche BCN - Cervantes 2 O’Hara’s - Ferran 23 Schilling - Ferran 18 Gràcia Arts Project - Sant Honorat 11 Café de l‘Opera - La Rambla 74 Bliss - de la Dagueria Patronat de Turisme - Pl. Catalunya 17

Eixample (right) Michael Collins - Pl. Sagrada Família 4 George and Dragon - Diputació 269 BCN Books - Roger de Llúria 118 Café Laie - Pau Claris 85 Dow Jones - Bruc 97 bxs (Valencia) Caffe D’Arts - Bruc 118 bxs (Valencia) Bar Amsterdam - Aragó 305 (Llúria) Anthony Llobet Hair Salon - Corsega 364 Cine Casablanca - Pg. de Gràcia 115 Palau Robert - Pg. de Gràcia 107 Obama - Gran Vía 603 Republic House - Pg. Sant Joan 74 The George Payne - Pl. Urquinaona 5

Gràcia Sol-Soler - Pl. del Sol 21-22 Bristol Blue - Torrent de l’Olla 39-41 Café del Sol - Pl. del Sol 16 Hibernian Books - Montseny 17 Cine Verdi Park - Torrijos 49 Cine Verdi - Verdi 32 Farmacia Serra Mandri - Diagonal 478 Ciber Virreina - Astúries 78 Enoteca d’Italia - Santa Magdalena 17 Himali - Milá i Fontanals 60-68 The City Arms - Pl. Narcis Oller 9 Anthony Llobet - Sant Joaquim 28-30

JANUARY 2011 | Nº 168 | FREE

DECEMBER 2010 | Nº 167 | FREE

Raval The Quiet Man - Marqués de Barbará 11 London Bar - Nou de la Rambla 34 The Queen Vic - Nou de la Rambla 24 Kasparo - Pl. Vicenç Martorell The Shamrock - Tallers 72 Bar Raval - Hospital 104 Mama Café - Doctor Dou 10 Wild Turkey Tavern - Hospital 4 Rosa del Raval - dels Àngels 6 Plástico Bar - San Ramon 23 Anthony Llobet - Sant Pau 22 Fish and Chips - Rbla del Raval 26

Flann O’Brien - Casanova 264 Fabulous Baking Co - Bisbe Sivilla 48 Central Café Calvet - Calvet 1-3 European University - Ganduxer 70

Vila Olimpics Kennedy Irish Pub - Moll de Mestral 27 Australian’s Club - Moll de Mestral 40-41 George’s - Centro Com. Icaria Rembrandt - Marina (Icaria)

Poble Nou Nice Spice - Pujades 207 Hemisferio Café Bar - Ramon Turró 204

Les Corts Cines Renoir - Eugeni d’Ors 12 Kitty O’Shea’s - Nau Santa Maria 5-7

Barceloneta The Fastnet - Pg. Joan de Borbó 22 Foc - Pg. Joan de Borbó 66

OCTOBER 2010 | Nº 165 | FREE

NOVEMBER 2010 | Nº 166 | FREE

ART EXPOSED

ALTERNATIVE MEDICINE THE USE OF ALTERNATIVE AND COMPLEMENTARY THERAPIES

Sarrià Sant Gervasi

AUGUST 2010 | Nº 163 | Free

JULY 2010 | Nº 162 | Free

BODY TALK

THE CITY’S PUBLIC ART AND WHERE TO FIND IT

Pessebres

THE CRAFT BEHIND THE TRADITION

LAPORTA

Sunday trading

FROM BARÇA TO POLITICS

main pages - Apr11 .indd 8

3/22/11 2:27:12 PM

Hairdressers

Business directory To advertise in this section, call: 93 451 4486 or email: ads@barcelona-metropolitan.com See also our online directory at www.barcelona-metropolitan.com

Beauty Health & Wellbeing

Home Services

Education Services

Business Employment

44-49 Apr.indd 44

Hairdressers Bodywork/Massage Veterinarian Doctors Dentists Teeth Whitening Pharmacy Chiropractors Acupuncure Life Coaching Psychologists / Psychotherapists Psychiatrist HypnoBirthing Feldenkrais Construction Interior Design Plumbing Locksmith Rentals Transport / Storage / Removals Language Schools Activities Translation Courses Piano Lessons Design Computers Television Services Tax Services Legal Practices Business Coaching Insurance Financial Service Job Opportunities

44 45 45 45 45 45 46 46 46 46 46-47 46 47 47 47 48 48 48 48 48 49-50 50 50 50 51 51 51-52 52 52-53 53 53 54 54-56

3/22/11 11:40:16 AM

Beauty | HealtH | WellBeing 45 Bodywork / Massage

Veterinarian

Doctors

English Doctor Dr. Steven Joseph

Col nº 38291

BSc, MBBS, DRCOG, MRCGP, MRCPsych (London) Member of the Royal College of General Practioners U.K Member of the Royal College of Psychiatrists U.K

General Practice · Mental Health Extensive range of primary care services Access to all medical specialists/investigations

GOOG medical centre

Tel 93 330 2412 • Mobile 627 669 524 Email: googol@hotmail.es www.googolmedicalcentre.com

Gran Via Carles III nº-37-39 08028 Barcelona Les Corts

Dentists

English Dentist Dr. Nicholas Jones BDSLDSRCS Col. No 4090

FREE CHECK-UPS

General & Cosmetic dentistry Orthodontics Implants & Tooth whitening Smile makeovers Diagonal 281 (Sagrada familia L5/Monumental L2) Tel. 93 265 80 70 / Mob. 607 332 335 Open Monday to Saturday

nickteeth@hotmail.com www.nickteeth.com

Teeth Whitening

44-49 Apr.indd 45

3/22/11 11:40:19 AM

46 Beauty | Health | Wellbeing Chiropractors

Pharmacy

Acupuncture

Life Coaching

44-49 Apr.indd 46

Psychologists / Psychotherapists

3/22/11 11:40:21 AM

Beauty | HealtH | WellBeing 47

Jonathan Lane Hooker Jonathan Lane Hooker Psychotherapist, Counsellor, Coach and Guide

Psychotherapist, Counsellor, Coach and Guide Help and support with: • • • • • •

FREE

Lack of Energy or Low Self-Esteem 20 MIN Expat Issues and Adapting to Change INTRODUCTORY MEETING Improving Family and Personal Relationships Feelings of Anger, Loneliness and Isolation, or Anxiety Achieving a Particular Goal or Finding a New Direction Changing Unhelpful or Destructive Habits or Patterns of Behaviour

jonathan.hooker@yahoo.com Read more about Jonathan and the above issues at

TEL 93 590 7654

MOB 639 579 646

www.jonathanhooker.com

Network of English Speaking Therapists

Norma Alicia León, PhD Clinical Psychologist Psychoanalyst 680 971 468

Established since 2000

Connie Capdevila Brophy PhD Clinical Psychologist & Psychotherapist 934 670 650

Anna Jansen MA Dance Movement Therapist 657 183 542

Maria Sideri, MSc Psychologist & Dance Movement Therapist 655 162 410

Donna DeWitt MA Performance & Sport Psychologist 607 636 246

Vera M. Hilb MA Clinical Psychologist & Psychotherapist, EMDR 667 584 532

Jill Jenkins PsyD Child Clinical & School Psychologist 935 041 690

Emma Judge MA Licensed Counselor Psychologist 639 041 549

Manuel Isaías López, MD, PhD Claudia Ros Tusquets MA Clinical Psychologist Child and Adolescent Psychiatrist & Psychoanalyst & Psychotherapist 934 102 962 / 657 570 692 686 991 742

Peter Zelaskowski UKCP Registered Psychotherapist 628 915 040

www.barcelonanest.com All NEST professionals are Licensed / Certified

HypnoBirthing

English - Spanish - Catalan - Dutch - German - Italian

Feldenkrais

Construction

CALL 657 994 630 Electricity

Air conditioning

Plumbing

Handyman

Plumbing and electrical services No job too small or too large Commercial and residential air conditioning Satellite installation

Looking for someone you can trust? Call 657 994 630 Same day service

C/Alcolea nº42 bajos, 08014 Barcelona

44-49 Apr.indd 47

3/22/11 11:40:31 AM

48 Home Services Interior Design

Plumbing GRAHAM COLLINS PROPERTY CONSULTANCY INTER IOR DESIGN & DECOR ATION Puzzled by the property market ? Need a renovator that speaks your language ? Want that designed look on an Ikea budget ?

C / CONSULAT DEL MAR 35, 3er BARCELONA t: 0034 678 75 75 11 e: grahamcollins@talk21.com

Locksmith

Rentals

Transport / Storage / Removals

44-49 Apr.indd 48

3/22/11 11:40:37 AM

EDUCATION 49 Language Schools

44-49 Apr.indd 49

3/22/11 11:40:39 AM

50 EDUCATION Language Schools

iness Spanish Ă

Activities

Translation Courses

50-55 Apr.indd 50

Piano Lessons

3/24/11 12:50:44 PM

SERVICES 51 Design

FOR ALL YOUR DESIGN NEEDS Contact: Aisling

BA in Visual Communication

Member of the International Society of Typographic Designers

e: ashcal.design@gmail.com t: +34 699 260 938 Computers

FOR ALL YOUR DESIGN NEEDS Contact: Aisling

BA in Visual Communication

e: ashcal.design@gmail.com t: +34 699 260 938

Television Services

50-55 Apr.indd 51

3/24/11 12:50:47 PM

52 SERVICES Television Services

Tax Services

Legal Practices

50-55 Apr.indd 52

3/24/11 12:50:50 PM

BUSINESS 53

Business Coaching

Insurance

50-55 Apr.indd 53

3/24/11 12:50:52 PM

54 BUSINESS Financial service

50-55 Apr.indd 54

Job Opportunities

3/24/11 12:50:53 PM

EMPLOYMENT 55

Looking for a new and different type of job? If so, we have fantastic opportunities to work in our bustling Barcelona European Hub Center. American Express Barceló Viajes is a travel management company that is looking for talented people with multiple language skills. In particular we are looking for travel professionals who are native and/or fluent in German, English, French and Spanish.

Interested in becoming part of our team? Please send your CV to

recruitmentbcn@amexbarcelo.com We are looking for: • Native speakers in German, French, Spanish and Fluent in English • Previous experience in Customer Service roles • Excellent communication and customer relations skills • Previous experience in travel related services. • Knowledge of AMADEUS Travel reservation system is a plus • Microsoft office knowledge • Flexibility to work in rotating shifts

50-55 Apr.indd 55

We offer a job as a travel consultant. In this role you will: • Make travel arrangements for customers that are traveling on business and are looking for advice and support. • Join a multicultural team that embraces and integrates diversity. • Work in a comfortable and modern work environment • Have a competitive salary • Have a permanent contract immediately with 2 months probation period.

3/24/11 12:50:55 PM

56 EMPLOYMENT

56-57 Apr.indd 56

3/21/11 2:55:01 PM

A selection of the latest classified ads you can see on our website now For Sale: Vehicles / Boats HYUNDAI TERRACAN CRDi Top of range 4x4 crdi, leather interior, electrics, A/C sun roof, full service history, new timing belts, just over 120.000 klm. Great condition. January 2004 MOT until December 2011. € 9200 € ono. Call 606 308 711. Yamaha X-Max 250cc Scooter Yamaha X-Max 250, first registered in May 2007. Last technical service 500 Km ago, total mileage 28500 Km. Used mostly for short trips on suburban highway. Minor cosmetic damage (plastics), but mechanically solid and well maintained. Comes bundled with saddle bags, disk brake lock and some spare parts. Price: €2400 , negotiable. Available to see in Terassa - Sant Cugat area. Please call or email for any queries. Tel: 620 695 541 or derish@ hp.com Cheers.

Others ENGLISH AND/OR SPANISH PSYCHOLOGY/SELF-HELP BOOKS FOR SALE! Selling English and/or Spanish self help books and psychology books. New prices: €5 each. No discounts. The books are in perfect conditions. Cell: 609 731 600 (or leave you msg) Morning only! Business English Books and New English Dictionary/Thesaurus I am selling an unused New English Dictionary and Thesaurus. Compact edition together with two used books for effective report and business letters writing in English. The dictionary has over 40.000 definitions and the thesaurus has over 100.000 synonyms. The business books are for people who need to be able to write business letters and everything from the short memo to the long report in English. Both business books have a full key providing answers to the exercises and writing tasks. I am selling these three books together for €16. I look forward to hearing from you. Tel: 634 508 123. Avent ISIS iQ Duo Breast Pump The best on the market by far - quiet, easy to use, effective and comes

main pages - Apr11 .indd 18

with a travel bag for working mums that want to continue to give their babies mothers milk. Can be used as electronic or manual, double or single pump. All accessories included - pump, cables, bottles, teats, cool bags, cool packs, travel bag, user DVD, manual pump and milk storage bags. For more information please get in touch. Email: purp.walker@gmail.com

Household goods Large selection of softback novels in English for sale I’ve lots of English softback novels that are taking up space in my tiny flat so they’ve got to go!! €1 each but thats open to offers if taking the lot. Barcelona buyer to collect as I am disabled and housebound, Blue Line Metro L5 Gavarra. (Cornella) Tel: 605 918 769. Anytime before 22:00 Play house, slide and water table for sale in Sitges I have a plastic play house, plastic water/sand table and red plastic slide for sale. Price for the three items would be €70. If interested let me know. Please email me on rebecca@mumabroad. com and I can send you some photos. Items would be for collection in Sitges. Thanks, Rebecca

Property for sale Modern single-storey Villa for sale 250,000.00 euros !!! Pretty detached villa, single-story, 192 m2 on a plot 800 m2. Situated on a quiet urba overlooking woodland & apple orchards. The villa has 3 double bedrooms, ( 1 full ensuite ), 2 bathrooms, fully fitted kitchen, large lounge/dining room with logburning stove. Gasoil central heating, all double glazed, huge double garage. Outside there are numerous pretty terraces & a private sunny garden with lawn, flower beds & veg plot. Many extras to be included, priced at €380.000 by agent, we’re asking a realistic €250.000 euros! Contact for Suzanne on 972 480 078 for further details, photos, to arrange a viewing etc. Special Price! 2 bed apartment in Llucmajor

An opportunity not to be missed. This 2 bed apartment is in walking distance of metro, bus and Heron City shopping centre. Currently tenanted by a reliable, regular payer. Good investment property. Owners have a genuine reason for sale. €168.000 Telephone Claire for more details: 649 826 649 Super central flat in trendy city location – €215.000 Fantastic city centre flat 65 m2 with 2 double beds (17 m2 and 12 m2) and large bright living room (20 m2) with open kitchen. Located on 4th floor without lift of well maintained period block on pedestrianised street, just 3 mins walk from Plaza Universidad. Sunny and large communal terrace directly above flat for owner occupier use only and storage room for bikes on ground floor. Sold fully furnished with new electro domestics and Sky UK satellite tv. Great for professional couples and rental investment. Email the owner for more info and photos tcbcn2003@yahoo.co.uk. House in L’Escala, Costa Brava 3 rooms, near the forest, near the beach. Perfecto to stay all year. Tel 616 669 939

Wanted Wooden Garden Patio Set with 6 Chairs Second Hand Wooden Garden Patio Set with 6 Chairs live in Castelldefels. Call: 615 572 693

Seeking

Searching for a lost friend I am looking for an old friend I have seen last 1966. Other friends have met him and his family 1976. We would like to contact him and know how he is doing. His name is Sr. Ramon Pavon from Barcelona. If anybody know about him, please contact me: bloregon20@gmail. com Thank you very much. Expatriates family looking for a german primary school education for a 6 years old kid We are working in barcelona and looking for a german primary school for our 6 years daughter. Do you have a same

experience? Please kindly contact me at: Email: jenpearl99@gmail.com Tel: 933 684 286 or 652 713 559 Thanks, jenny

Long term apartment/house Atico - Rambla del Poblenou €600 In the middle of bustling Poblenou this top floor studio is perfect for the single man, woman or couple with less than 10 minutes walk from the beach. It has its own private terrace, access via a wooden winding staircase, for barbecue or sun lounging and has been completely renovated throughout with a new kitchen and bathroom. Fully furnished with television, washing machine, microwave, fridge and radiator. For details please send an email to lliame@yahoo.com 2 b/r flat for rent in BCN (Collblanc/ Torrossa) Furnished, first floor flat, good condition, heating, aircon. etc. Ideal for professional single or couple. Accessible to metros torrossa & collblanc. Available from April 1. To rent direct from owner, no agency fee. €670/mo incl gastos de comunidad. Contact: 697 400 775. Donald

DESIGNER FLAT 100M2 IN THE HEART OF THE RAVAL DISTRICT. BARCELONA ( 1200eur) A sunny and spacious designer flat 100 m2 in the heart of the Raval district, benefiting from sun all day long. Recently renovated to the highest standards. Extensive lounge-dining room of 32 m2 plus exterior galleria. 2 exterior bedrooms (1 suite with galleria and 1 double bedroom). 2 bathrooms (1 with a huge bath and rain shower, 1 with shower). Spacious and sunny designer kitchen. Ceramic flooring, air conditioning, and central heating. 2 balconies – 8 m2 outside the living room, and 4 m2 accesible from the kichten. The building has been recently renovated, and has a lift. It is in a very well connected area, central location. As the flat does not face into the street, it is very quiet and peaceful all day. Available from 1st of April. Contact: 667 661 965

3/22/11 2:23:47 PM

58 BACK PAGE

Fun with nuns

s career options go, being a nun always comes quite far down the list. A life of prayer isn’t for everyone, even if you have the calling. Opportunities for excitement are limited once you’ve grown tired of the thrill of gardening, dusting the altar and making marzipan-based sweets in the shape of Mother Superior’s nipples. Even the uniform of stout shoes, sober skirts and a choice of wimple seems to deter some would-be applicants. But for the right person, becoming a nun is the perfect career choice, with its promise of career-long employment, on-site accommodation and occasional opportunities for workrelated travel (mostly to Rome and the more troubled recesses of the developing world). All you need is a sense of vocation and a belief in the essential goodness of your fellow man. It is this belief that explains why the good sisters of the Santa Lucia convent in Zaragoza felt comfortable keeping a million Euros in used notes in bin-liners stored in the back of a cupboard. After all, who would steal from a nun? Maybe all convents have a similar stash hidden away somewhere. Jesus notably took a dim view of money-changers, so perhaps nuns have inherited a suspicion of financial institutions, banks included. Understandably they don’t make a song and dance about their

HOROSCOPE

banknotes in the belfry, their Euros under the Eucharist, and not only because singing and dancing is frowned upon. It’s one thing to have an unshakeable belief in the essential goodness of your fellow man, it’s quite another to lead him into temptation by leaving your petty— and not so petty—cash lying around for all to see. Indeed the only reason we know about the hidden wealth at the convent of Santa Lucia is that it’s been stolen. Actually it might not have been a million. It might only have been half a million—the sisters changed their story after questions were asked about their fiscal hygiene, particularly where they had got all that money and did the tax man know? Jesus was very clear on this point: pay unto Caesar what is due to Caesar. His advice is particularly relevant in Zaragoza, which is named after Caesar Augustus. Slur the name Caesar Augustus like a banker on a champagne binge and you get Zaragoza. Or, if you’ve got the time, let word of mouth do the slurring for about 2,000 years. You’ll get the same result. But even half a million is a lot of marzipanbased sweets in the shape of Mother Superior’s nipples. Some of it came from the hand of sister Isabel Guerra, whose paintings sell for up to €40,000 each, earning her the rather original nickname of The Painting Nun. She

specialises in sweet/twee (depending on your sensibilities) portraits of innocent types suffused with a luminescence that suggests both the presence of God and an unschooled talent more familiar with chocolate-box lids than art museums. In other hands, it might be called Sunday Painting. But as a nun, Sunday is probably the one day you don’t get to paint. Whatever the provenance, the nuns must be kicking themselves. All that frugality! All that self-denial! All that weeding the convent nursery and shaping marzipan-based sweets! The Santa Lucia convent is not the most beautiful of buildings. A million (or even half a million) could have transformed it from somewhere you might lock up felons in deepest Aragon to somewhere you might actually want to go to reflect on the glory of God. Renovations were indeed taking place, and suspicion for the theft has inevitably fallen on the builders who had been toiling away at the convent for three months. Was it loose talk that revealed the whereabouts of the hidden stash? Or were the builders paid like clockwork every Friday, standing innocently by as Mother Superior unlocked her cupboard and delved into the bin-liners to retrieve large wads of cash. Either way, it seems a little unfair. Like taking candy from a baby, only far more lucrative.

by Nuria Picola

--Roger de Flower

www.nuriapicola.com

Aries Congratulations! You are in a moment of maximum energy renewal. This year is bringing you important changes. You feel more independent and should be aware of your strength.

Taurus Although you are

Gemini If you are trying to get a loan, this is a good time to apply for one. You are starting a period when you’ll have more economic independence to carry out your hobbies and projects.

Cancer Be vigilant with your health. If you get trapped in a whirlwind of stress, you will likely have to pay the price, health-wise. You are in a good professional moment.

Leo You need to expand your mental and intellectual horizons to be able to see all the opportunities now appearing. There is the possibility of work trips. Your health is excellent.

Virgo It’s a very active month

Libra Your health is slightly delicate and you need to give it sufficient attention. Involve yourself in your own cure and organise visits to a professional. Money can be problematic.

Scorpio You are sensitive to emotional matters; this doesn’t mean things are going badly, but you could be hurt more easily. You want to have fun and attract people for a good time.

Sagittarius You might abuse the

Capricorn You’re going to have

Aquarius External wealth is important, but this month you need to focus on internal wealth; understand your spiritual richness. There is much more communication this month.

Pisces You are mainly interested in money; this could bring you success and help you overcome any difficulty. Money comes, but also goes. Someone who owes you money, decides to pay.

pleasures of life, enjoying them too much. Your children could bring excessive costs. If you are a creative, this is a really good month for you.

essentially a realist, this month it seems that everything spiritual is coming your way. Don’t try to ignore this situation. Your health is good.

sexually, whatever your age and phase of life. If you have any issue pending with the tax authorities, this is the time to move them forward.

to pay more attention to your health, even if you don’t feel like it. The areas that need most care are the head and face. A regular massage could be a good idea.

scoop By Ben Rowdon

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3/24/11 12:47:19 PM

Photo by Marta Pons

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