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here is no doubt Americans are seeking greener pastures in terms of what they eat and drink, from the expansion of organic sections at local grocery stores to the “farm-to-table” genre of cuisine at better restaurants. Not surprisingly, organic and “craft” spirits have also made a splash on-premise for several years. However, mixologists cultivating ways to present cocktails in a more natural light often find teas and herbs a great way to harvest adventurous customers. “Teas and tisanes are global drinks to begin with, and the earliest uses for consumer-focused alcoholic drinks were probably in punches in the 17th Century, disregarding herbal medicinal uses,” observes H. Joseph Ehrmann, proprietor of San Francisco’s Elixir and Brand Ambassador for Square One Organic Spirits. “With a global interest in all things culinary that does not seem to be satiable, teas and herbs represent an arena of flavor that can let that interest and creativity expand considerably.”
“It is interesting when you throw together five different spirits and liqueurs, a splash of Coke and lemon and get something that resembles tea,” muses Abou-Ganim. “As a lot of people still order it, it underscores the great thing about mixology--that there is something for everybody. However, if you look historically at the use of tea in drinks, you can trace it to Indian paantsch (a Hindi word that translates to “Five”) that made their way to England in colonial times. These recipes included five principle ingredients: alcohol, sugar, lemon, spices and either water or tea. That said, tea should not just be limited to punch bowl cocktails but also any balanced cocktail that can be developed in a mixologist’s signature style.” Ehrmann differs from the others, feeling the Long Island Iced Tea has a place on bar menus, provided it can
To Tea, or NoT To Tea While the Long Island “Iced Tea” is one of the most enduring cocktails on the American barscape, the “tea” part of the moniker has for years been a misnomer as no actual tea, black or otherwise, made its way into the recipe. However, some enterprising mixologists have found clever ways to put the “tea” into the recipe while others are tempting customers with entirely new creations made with the genuine article, sometimes using vintage recipes as a creative starting point. So, why are so many mixologists steeped in inspiration when it comes to tea cocktails, as well as herbal accents? According to Roger Bailey of Filini at the Raddisson Blu Chicago, it is because consumers today are more sophisticated than ever and would rather experience a cocktail rather than consume it. “Our palates are being challenged and stretched,” declares Bailey. “As there is a very aggressive market just for tea, it makes sense to find ways to implement them in a cocktail. I just recently scratched the surface on how serious and expansive the tea industry is. (Use of tea) sets the bar high, but it presents a great opportunity to invent new techniques and flavor profiles. Herbs, meanwhile, are such a great way to expand on the simple template of ‘sweet and sour’ balance.” “We’re light years from the heyday of the Long Island Iced Tea,” states Alex Weil, head sommelier for Bouchon, with locations in Beverly Hills and New York City. “Drinks like that are merely ways to put in the most alcohol possible while still masking the flavor. Today’s cocktails are, in their own right, singular creations meant to be enjoyed as one would a dish of food, as opposed to something meant to get you drunk. That’s what straight tequila and whiskey are for.” Las Vegas-based master mixologist Tony Abou-Ganim says that although there is a time, place and audience for the old Long Island, tea has played equally important roles in cocktailing’s past as much as its future, and provides an interesting back story to tell customers. www.barbizmag.com
“With a global interest in all things culinary that does not seem to be satiable, teas and herbs represent an arena of flavor that can let that interest and creativity expand considerably.” South x SouthweSt Josh Pearson, Sepia, Chicago 1½ oz Luna Azul Reposado 1 oz St. Germain 1 oz lemon juice Dash Fees Old Fashioned Bitters Sprig rosemary Moscato d’asti topper Muddle rosemary and shake all ingredients, except Moscato. February 2013 Bar Business Magazine
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